Replacing the catalyst on a VAZ 2110

Catalyst for VAZ 2110

All motorists know what a catalyst is. This is an important part that relates to the exhaust system of the car and is intended as a part for afterburning exhaust gases. Basically, the catalyst or catalytic converter, as it is called by experts, is placed on or after the exhaust pipe. Replacing the catalyst on a VAZ 2110, which we will discuss in this article, is caused by the long service life of this part. Typically, on a VAZ 2110, the catalyst is replaced after 140 tons of mileage.

How to replace the speedometer cable on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Note! Before buying this sensor in a car store, take exactly the same one that you had (you need to look at the markings for this on the old sensor, but for this, of course, you will have to remove the sensor), if you neglect this, the engine will most likely not work as expected should, we also categorically do not recommend that you take oxygen sensors without heating, (Even if your car was equipped with one), such sensors may not always give correct readings until they warm up, due to which the engine will again not work correctly, so before When purchasing a new sensor, be sure to take all these nuances into account!

1. The sensor is removed very easily, first remove the negative terminal from the battery (How to do this, read “in this article”, point 1) and then disconnect the deck and wire connectors, as soon as this is done, unscrew the sensor itself by the thread that is on applied to it and thereby remove it from the hole in the exhaust manifold and that’s it, you can install a new one.

Additional video: Watch the video that talks about the oxygen sensor, which is located below:

The Kalina oxygen sensor (photo 1), also known as UDC, allows the engine control system to adjust the fuel supply if the oxygen level in the exhaust gases increases, that is, the air-fuel mixture becomes lean. Oxygen creates an electrical potential difference, which amplifies the sensor signal.

Operating principle of the catalyst

So:

The remaining gases, in contact with the surface of the catalytic layer, begin to oxidize completely.
A reaction occurs, during which heat is released, and the catalyst acts as a part that activates the oxidation reaction. T
Thus, the exhaust gases leaving the catalyst have a CO2 concentration that complies with Euro 2 standards.

As a rule, during the operation of an internal combustion engine, a whole bunch of toxic substances are released into the atmosphere. The most dangerous of them are carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxide. If we recall the situation that prevailed in the 70s of the last century in the countries of Europe and America, shrouded in smog from car exhaust gases, it becomes clear why a catalyst was invented. A modern catalytic converter consists of a stainless steel housing, inside of which a special carrier module is located. This module is made of ceramics, which is permeated lengthwise and crosswise with honeycombs and pores. The surface of the catalyst is treated with an active catalytic layer of platinum, palladium and rhodium. The neutralizer is placed, as mentioned above, in the exhaust system for a reason. For the neutralization process to begin, a temperature of 250 degrees is needed. As for the operating temperature, which provides optimal conditions for greatest efficiency, it should be in the range of 400-900 degrees.

Installing flame arresters on Nissan. Installation of flame arresters on Nissan in St. Petersburg. Installing flame arresters on Nissan. Installation of flame arresters on Nissan in St. Petersburg.

VAZ, remove the catalyst, install spider 4-1, high consumption, cleaning the air flow sensor, oil in the air duct. Replacing the UAZ catalyst. Replacing the catalyst in St. Petersburg

Why do you need a catalyst?

By the mid-90s of the twentieth century, cars of the Samara family, equipped with carburetor engines, could no longer compete with foreign cars, the flow of which poured into Russia from abroad.

Therefore, the management had to make a decision to replace the carburetor engine with a more modern power unit that meets the requirements of Euro-1 and Euro-2. This engine was the VAZ 2111 power unit, which, like the carburetor VAZ 2110 that appeared a little earlier, was a modification of the popular VAZ 21083 engine.

The power unit has been modified to meet new environmental requirements. But this alone was not enough; a device was required that would burn the exhaust gases and reduce the content of toxic substances in them.

The most dangerous toxic substance was carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide), which in order to be converted into harmless carbon dioxide must be burned again, in other words, mixed with oxygen at a high temperature.

This is what the catalyst in the VAZ 2110 and other models is designed for - it burns carbon monoxide, turning it into harmless carbon dioxide, and also burns other unburnt remains of motor fuel, for example, tars or various oils.

Fuel consumption after catalyst removal

Many car owners often ask the question: can fuel consumption increase after removing the catalyst? If the catalytic converter was simply cut out, the lambda probe installed after the catalyst insert will signal an error and the ECU will put the fuel system into emergency mode:

the engine will lose power;
fuel consumption will increase.

But car repair workers have learned to cheat the system - they reflash the control unit and remove the second lambda probe from the circuit. The electronics “believes” that there is no second sensor in the system, so error information does not appear, and the internal combustion engine operates normally. With the “trick”, fuel consumption after removing the catalyst is almost the same as with a catalytic converter, the only difference is that the emission of toxic substances into the atmosphere with the removed CN increases.

How to buy a suitable part for a VAZ exhaust system

In the previous article, I already wrote about choosing a suitable muffler (Zone B) for VAZ cars. Here we will talk about zone A, which may include the manifold, downpipe, resonator and in some cases the catalytic converter.

Unlike zone B, where the determining factor when choosing a part is the length of the car, in zone A the most important parameters are the type of engine power system (carburetor, injector) and the applicable emission standards. Also, in some cases, it is necessary to know the engine model, or rather the number of valves and volume.

What causes the catalytic converter to break down?

There is an established preconception that this device is capricious and short-lived. We would disagree with him: most catalysts (at their price!) are designed for a mileage of 100-150 thousand km. Yes, not every car owner puts so much mileage on his car - at least without changing it. But practice shows that only half of the catalysts can handle the estimated mileage. Their early failure is due to several factors.

The main reason why the catalyst does not exhaust its service life is low-quality fuel. And sometimes almost all domestic gas stations supply them. In this case, regular cleaning, which many motorists completely forget about, can extend the life of the device; The next most common thing that damages the catalyst is water, antifreeze or oil coming into contact with the hot body. This phenomenon is especially dangerous for ceramic (cheaper) versions

From this point of view, it is fundamentally important to maintain the tightness of the system and monitor the formation of condensation; Incorrect ignition. If you fail to start the engine the first time, the gasoline that was not used for starting accumulates in the exhaust tract.

The next plant causes it to explode in the catalyst. Ceramic honeycombs fly into pieces, metal ones can be deformed; The arrival of crushed stone into the catalyst is only dangerous for ceramics, which fly apart from the collision. The metal holds up much better and longer, but numerous head-on collisions gradually deform it more and more, although the body protects against them much more reliably than ceramic honeycombs; We can conclude: premature breakdowns are mainly caused by the negligence of the car owner. Even the impact of bad gasoline can be mitigated by care, which in this case will manifest itself in timely prevention.

Operating principle of the catalyst

So:

The remaining gases, in contact with the surface of the catalytic layer, begin to oxidize completely.
A reaction occurs, during which heat is released, and the catalyst acts as a part that activates the oxidation reaction. T
Thus, the exhaust gases leaving the catalyst have a CO2 concentration that complies with Euro 2 standards.

Reasons for catalytic converter failure

As mentioned above, the service life of the catalyst is estimated at 140 thousand kilometers. In addition, the duration of the catalyst operation depends on the proper operation of the fuel drive and ignition systems. If there are misfires in the ignition, this leads to overheating of the clay cells. As a result of a breakdown of the catalytic converter, the main systems of the car deteriorate. This especially applies to exhaust systems and normal engine operation. The car begins to feel a little dull, and the owner associates this condition with other parts. Therefore, timely repair of the catalyst is so important. In addition, driving a car with a damaged catalyst is not recommended. Replacing the VAZ 2110 8 valve catalyst is the best solution in this case. After all, operating a car in such cases can cause damage not only to important parts, but also lead to a fire of the entire system. Modern cars have a special sensor, which is programmed to turn on the emergency mode of operation of the car in such cases . The cause of failure of the catalyst can be clogging. It is usually caused by the use of low-quality fuel containing certain impurities that accumulate on the walls of the internal valves.

How to diagnose?

Let's see how to determine if the catalyst is clogged. The methods are available to everyone and do not require special skills or knowledge. You need to start the car and dial up the engine speed to its maximum. The engine is also turned at low, medium and high frequencies. In each mode, the pedal is sharply pressed to the floor. The motor should not fail, but, on the contrary, react sharply. If there is a weak response or the engine does not want to spin up to more than 5000 rpm, you should think about replacing the converter. Here's another way to check the catalyst. The signs and symptoms have been confirmed, and it’s time to make sure the element is broken. To diagnose, place your hand on the exhaust pipe. Exhaust gases move in pulses. You can definitely feel with your hand how they are pushed out of each cylinder in turn. If at idle the flow is smooth and constant, this directly indicates a clogged converter. If you press the trigger and then turn off the engine, they will come out slowly. These are the gases that have accumulated due to a clogged catalyst.

What you need to know

You also need to know what the toxicity standard of your car is.
This is quite easy to determine. On EURO 2, sensors are not installed after the catalyzer. EURO 3 has an oxygen sensor installed after the catalytic converter. It provides the controller with information about its operating efficiency. But why spend money if you can just make a hole in the cata, empty it and install just the housing? The solution is cheaper, but much less correct. An empty housing will make your car even louder, but this is not a hindrance. The neutralizer itself is a set of square “honeycombs” of small cross-section (0.5×0.5 mm); they, like channels, run parallel to each other in the direction of exhaust gas movement. Their total cross-sectional area is approximately equal to the cross-sectional area of the pipe, but the cross-sectional area of the neutralizer and the housing is much larger than the cross-sectional area of the pipe. And as a result, when installing an empty housing, we will get an exhaust section with a large cross-section, where the normal movement of exhaust gases will be disrupted. That is why it is recommended to install the insert. In recent years, kats have begun to be produced on a metal base, so it is no longer possible to simply empty its body. Now you need to cut it and cut out the metal “honeycombs”, and then weld the body. Front-wheel drive VAZs with 1.4 and 1.6 liter engines have a catalyst, which is made as a single part with the exhaust manifold. Therefore, when the kata is removed, the volume of the motor increases greatly. In these car models, the best solution would be to install a manifold from a 1.5-liter (VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112) engine or a sports spider (exhaust manifold). In the case of installing a spider, it is necessary to consult with specialists, since there are known cases of power loss and other negative aspects when installing low-quality collectors.

With EURO 3 engines the process becomes more interesting. There is a need to deceive the electronic systems of the engine (lambda probe installed after the catalytic converter). This can be done in two ways:

Installing the emulator.
Reflashing the control side to EURO 2 standards (more correct) As a result, if the lambda probe comes after the cat, then it is better to reflash the control unit.

Now let's take a closer look at the models

VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 With a 1.5-liter power unit, the catalyst is a separate unit under the bottom of the car. Here you need to delete it and make an insert. On VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 with 1.6 liter engines a catalytic collector is installed. In this case, it must be removed and a new cat collector or sports spider installed.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=8yWlL3wvCzE

Why is there not a catalytic converter on all VAZ 2108-2115 models?

Early models of these cars were produced with carburetor engines, for which this part is not required. Then the first injection models appeared, on which a catalyst with one oxygen sensor was installed. As the technology of injection power units was mastered, catalysts with two lambda probes began to be installed.

How to find out if a catalytic converter is worth it

Therefore, a catalyst in a VAZ 2114 car is needed if the vehicle is equipped with an injector; carburetor cars are not subject to European environmental requirements, which means there is no point in installing an expensive part.

Secrets of fault diagnosis and removal of catalyst 2112

Removing the catalytic converter on a VAZ 2112 is an important stage in restoring the car’s performance. To make such a decision, you need to make sure that the unit is really faulty

It is equally important to determine the cause of failure in a timely manner.

Our specialists begin work with an external inspection:

the integrity of the structure and all connections is assessed;
the probability of mechanical damage is determined;
the possibility of overheating of the structure is excluded, as can be seen from the condition of the outer casing;
We also evaluate the operation of the exhaust system, how gases escape, because if it is working properly, it is impossible to put your hand on the exhaust pipe;
During inspection, it is easy to notice an uncharacteristic odor, which indicates to us a possible malfunction.

Tests and performance assessment are also recommended using special equipment that allows you to evaluate the composition of the exhaust and check the back pressure. A more accurate determination of the malfunction follows by removing the unit and inspecting it against the light.

Computer diagnostics and scanning are the next stage, where we use certified equipment. This is a very effective technique. After all, data about all problems and malfunctions are stored in the memory of the control unit. By reading them, it is easy to detect codes indicating a decrease in the performance of the catalyst.

Catalyst for VAZ - a necessity or an “extra part”?

So, today we will talk about the catalysts that were installed on VAZs depending on the model and year of manufacture, and we will also discuss the advisability of removing the catalyst, supposedly this improves the dynamics, but does not have any consequences. So, the most common opinion, which serves as a reinforced concrete justification for the need to remove the catalyst, is “The catalyst is strangling the engine.” In my opinion, this is a fundamentally wrong opinion, from the category of superstitions. A working catalyst creates absolutely no resistance to the flow of exhaust gases. Melting and clogging of the catalyst honeycomb are usually the consequences of long-term operation of a faulty car coupled with lousy fuel. For example, many people like to add additives to gasoline. But no one thinks that this could be one of the reasons for the failure of the catalyst. Poor fuel quality is undoubtedly a good assistant in the process of “killing” the catalyst, but there is always the opportunity to change the gas station, right? Also, one of the reasons for cat failure may be an incorrectly prepared fuel-air mixture. On average, the service life of a catalyst ranges from 150,000 km to 200,000, but sometimes they last longer. If you still decide to remove the catalyst, then remember - you need to know the toxicity standards of your car. EURO 2 or EURO 3. Finding out is easy. EURO 2 does not have a lambda after the catalyst. EURO 3 must have a control lambda after the catalyst. It tells the brain how good the cat is.

In cars with Euro 2, removing the catalyst is very simple. The catalyst is located under the bottom of the car in the exhaust system and auto stores sell inserts that are installed instead of the catalytic converter.

But in systems with EURO 3 standards, everything is somewhat more difficult. It is necessary to “agree” with the lambda probe, which is located after the catalytic converter, otherwise there will be a check engine “reduced efficiency of the catalytic converter”. There are two ways here - mechanical snag or flashing the brain of your car. And finally, where is the notorious catalyst located in our VAZs?

On VAZ 2104-2107 the Catalyst is like a separate can, on the bottom of the car (often almost touching the ground J). Remove or replace with an insert. Since 2008 We change the controller.

VAZ 2121 Catalyst as a separate can, underneath the car. Remove or replace with an insert. E3 variants are found regardless of the year of manufacture; since 2008, E3 is inevitable.

VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 1.5L engines Catalyst as a separate can, underneath the car. Remove or replace with an insert. 1.6 l – catalytic collector. Remove the cat or install a spider.

VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 1.5L engines Catalyst as a separate can, underneath the car. Remove or replace with an insert. 1.6 l – catalytic collector.

VAZ 1118 Kalina - catalytic collector installed.

A cat collector is installed on the VAZ 2170 Priora. Regarding Priora, I would like to add that since 2009, some cars from the factory have been equipped with M73 brains with additional protection against flashing.

Correct removal of the VAZ 2110 catalyst - what will happen if you remove it

Anyone who has ever thought about tuning a car knows for sure that one of the parts of tuning an “iron horse” is tuning the exhaust system. Direct-flow mufflers and flame arresters are installed to replace the removed catastrophes. In our article today we will talk about the latter.

The catalyst (cat) , as we used to call it, is correctly called a catalytic converter-neutralizer. It is a part of the vehicle exhaust system, which ensures the neutralization of harmful fuel combustion products by reducing nitrogen oxides and using the resulting oxygen to oxidize carbon monoxide and unburned carbons. Let's remember the school chemistry course, which states that a catalyst is a substance that promotes the accelerated occurrence of a reaction, but does not itself participate in this reaction.

Such substances include rhodium, platinum, copper and some others. Automobile cat uses the ability of these substances to accelerate chemical reactions. With proper operation of the car: timely maintenance, use of high quality fuel, integrity of the mechanical parts of the engine, a working fuel supply system - the cat can operate for about 300,000 km. However, if it fails, then replacing it costs quite a lot of money, since it uses expensive materials.

There has long been a prejudice among people that kat extinguishes engine power. But this is an absolute LIE. A unit that does not have breakdowns does not interfere with the normal movement of exhaust gases. Possible reasons for the loss of khat permeability are melting and clogging of the honeycombs inside the khat, which are the result of careless car care and operation with problems in the ignition and fuel supply systems. And as an exception, and with low quality fuel.

When cutting out the catalyst (whether new or old) there will be no increase in engine power. This is all people's speculation. However, your car will start to roar much louder. And the sound of the car will become more like a sports car, and it will seem to you that the car has received an increase in power. It sounds louder - it means it's rushing!

Catalyst replacement

Replacing the catalyst for a VAZ 2110, a video of the process can be viewed on our website. For work we will need the following tools:

wrenches - set;
heads – set;
screwdrivers - set.

Removal

Replacing the VAZ 21101 catalyst is carried out in the same way as on other models in this series. It is worth noting that we carry out the work after the exhaust system has completely cooled down. So, let's start:

we lift the car onto a viewing hole or overpass;
We disconnect the main and additional gas exhaust systems;
to do this, you need to disconnect the exhaust pipe, and then the additional muffler of the exhaust system;
Unscrew the fastening nut of the coupling clamp, while holding the bolt from turning with a screwdriver;
move the clamp to the side;
take a flat-blade screwdriver and bend the hooks of the suspension straps that secure the main muffler to the bottom of the car;
disconnect it from the brackets;

Muffler bracket

unscrew the bolt securing the catalyst to the pillow using a wrench;
we remove it from the mounting hole (in some cases the nut may be so tight that it will cause difficulty in removal and in this case the connection must be treated with a special lubricant);
remove the main muffler;
before replacing the main muffler suspension cushion, you must first clean the connection from dirt and lubricate it with an easily penetrating compound;
take the key to 7;
we find the nut securing the pillow to the bracket and unscrew it;
remove the airbag from the car;
We treat the joints of the catalyst with a graphite-containing compound (do not forget about the threaded part of the bolts).

Exhaust system tuning

At this stage, the dismantling of the catalyst can be called complete. All that remains is to replace it with a new factory or homemade one. As a rule, there is no need to buy a new catalyst, since a self-made flame arrester is, in fact, the best muffler for exhaust gases. The tuning exhaust system for VAZ cars is also very popular among Russians today. It consists of an exhaust manifold or spider, which has two patterns: 4/1 and 4/2/1. In addition, the homemade system also consists of a direct-flow resonator with a flow area of 51, less often 60 mm, and a main muffler with a cross-section of 51/60 mm and having a direct-flow design. Replacing the catalyst on a VAZ 21101 is carried out precisely according to this system.

Spider Silencer

As for the spider system, the photo of which is visible above, this design is most widespread today. The 4/2/1 scheme is especially widely popular, which gives an increase in power that greatly expands the range of operating speeds. Well, the rest of the details of the tuning system. These include a tuned direct-flow resonator, which, in fact, does not provide any power to the engine. But still, it is often installed in the process of replacing a standard catalyst. And finally, the main muffler, made by yourself, which also does not provide any additional power to the car engine, but has a very attractive appearance. And many car owners begin modifying or replacing the exhaust system with it, as required by the instructions.

Tuning the main muffler

Manufacturing and installation of a flame arrester

The main task of the flame arrester is clear. This part must be able to promptly extinguish the flame that forms from the exhaust system. Often this is what is installed instead of a conventional catalyst. In order to make a flame arrester, you need to take a piece of pipe. It should have an outer diameter of 76mm and a wall thickness of 3mm.

Flame arrestor pipe

In principle, it is possible and even better to use a pipe with a diameter of 80 mm and a thickness of 2 mm. But here, as they say, everyone chooses for themselves. So, let's start:

We find the catalyst housing.

Catalyst housing

There is a protrusion on it that will serve as a support for our pipe. For fixation, we make metal rings with an outer diameter of 10.7 mm and an inner diameter of 76 mm.

We make cuts on one side of the pipe;
we rest the other part of the pipe against the catalyst body;
drill holes in the pipe;
insert metal brushes into it for washing dishes;
We brew it on the body.

The instructions described above will not only help novice car owners learn a lot, but also save a lot of money. After all, the price for such types of services today is very high and not every master will undertake to change the exhaust system of your car, doing the tuning with his own hands.

Independent production and installation of a flame arrester

Most auto-tuning workshops have found an alternative version of the catalyst. A flame arrester is installed instead. It can be easily made even in the garage. Auto mechanic services are not required. The main function of a flame arrester is to extinguish the fire escaping from the collector.

This flame has a very high temperature, so one of the muffler parts may burn out. If you weld an ordinary straight pipe instead of a catalyst, removing the internal parts located in the body of the catalyst, the exhaust system will quickly become unusable.

It will simply burst and burn out, and you will have to completely replace it. A flame arrester comes to the rescue, which has properties similar to those of the catalyst. It does not interfere with the movement of flows and is much cheaper than a catalyst. You can buy such a flame arrester at auto parts stores. But sometimes they are not on sale. Therefore, the part is often made by hand. To work you must have:

metal pipes;
steel brushes;
welding machine.

Pipes must have specific diameters. One should match the size of the exhaust system, the other should be slightly larger. Six-millimeter holes are made in the first pipe with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the leading system pipe. They are drilled along the entire circumference and length. It is then inserted into a pipe with a larger diameter and, after centering, welded at one end.

Using brushes, the pipes are stretched and then pushed inside. They are compacted with a steel rod. This operation is done until the entire free space of a larger diameter pipe is filled with brushes. When the operation using brushes is completed, the free end of the pipe is welded, the edges are first bent.

The result was a ready-made flame arrester, made independently. This part can be mounted on a car instead of a catalyst. A vehicle equipped with a flame arrester will run perfectly and quietly.

Source

Let's find out the origins of the misconception

The catalyst, which, due to poor operation, is clogged, melted or torn away from its body, prevents the passage of exhaust gases, which reduces the ventilation of the cylinders and disrupts their filling with the fuel-air mixture. Having problems in the intake system, a person comes to a service station. There, after diagnostics, the faulty cat is removed, after which: lo and behold, the car began to drive well. But the person thinks that the car has begun to drive even better than just a serviceable one, and he famously distributes recommendations to all his comrades on the appropriateness of this procedure, using his own experience and a bunch of positive emotions as an example. But in fact, a simply serviceable car will drive the same as a car without a catalytic converter.

However, there are still reasons for parting with this node, and here are 3 scenarios for the development of events:

Your catalyst has come to an end, it creates problems for the movement of exhaust gases, but it is our custom that the cat is not replaced with a new one, alas.
As part of the car tuning process (zero resistance filter, straight-through muffler and increased throttle do not count)
It seems to you that they are trying to “love” you (specifically me), and you still think that the kata removal procedure will make your car a rocket!

Operating principle of the catalyst

So:

The remaining gases, in contact with the surface of the catalytic layer, begin to oxidize completely.
A reaction occurs, during which heat is released, and the catalyst acts as a part that activates the oxidation reaction. T
Thus, the exhaust gases leaving the catalyst have a CO2 concentration that complies with Euro 2 standards.

Articles and prices

On VAZ 2108–2115, 3 types of catalytic converters are installed: under

Euro-2 8 valves;
for Euro-3 and Euro-4 8 valves;
for Euro-3 and Euro-4 16 valves.

Part number for Euro-2 is 21100120601011, average cost is 4 thousand rubles. The main difference is one hole for the oxygen sensor. This part cannot be installed on cars with Euro-3 and Euro-4 engines, because there is nowhere to install the second lambda probe. Neutralizers for Euro-3 and Euro-4 for eight-valve engines are similar in design to the previous ones, but are equipped with two holes for oxygen sensors, their article number is 11183-1203008, the average cost is 6 thousand rubles.

Neutralizers for 16V engines (this is how the number of valves is designated) are the same not only for all VAZ 2108-2115 models, but also for their modern descendants. Part number 11186-1203008, average cost 10 thousand rubles. Remember, converters for 8V and 16V motors are not interchangeable because they are installed in different places.

Catalyst heating: features

In some cases, the catalyst becomes very hot, turns red and begins to glow. This is due to incompletely burned fuel entering the catalytic analyzer. It begins to burn right in the device. The reason for this may be the following phenomena.

The mixture does not ignite in the cylinder.
The membrane maintaining fuel pressure has burst.
The injectors are filled with a combustible mixture.

Due to the strong heating of the catalyst, the car loses its power, you can hear the engine starting to stall, and thick acrid smoke comes out of the engine compartment. To repair a car, you need the help of car service specialists. How to replace the catalyst?

The part is attached to the resonator through a flange connection with two bolts. The downpipe holds the catalyst with a spring-loaded flange and two flares. A metal-asbestos ring is installed between them. Thanks to this connection, vibration does not transfer from the engine to the exhaust system.

A new ring must be installed. Penetrating gases can penetrate through the old one, which will damage the flaring of the catalyst. After installing the new catalyst, lightly screw in the mounting bolts. Full tightening begins with the bracket securing the resonator.

How to replace the catalyst on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?

Removal: 1) First, unscrew the two nuts of the bolts that secure the catalyst to the resonator, holding the bolt from turning with one spanner, and with the other at the same time, unscrew the nut securing this bolt.

2) Next, move to the two bolts that secure the catalyst to the exhaust pipe of the car, and then completely unscrew them.

Note! When you unscrew the last bolt, hold the catalyst itself with your hand to prevent it from falling!

3) And to complete the operation, remove both bolts, along with two springs.

Note! Be sure to replace all cracked or deformed springs with new ones!

Installation: 1) First, install two springs on the bolts that secure the catalyst to the exhaust pipe of the car.

2) Next, attach the edge of the new catalyst to the exhaust pipe of the car, and then tighten the two retaining bolts with springs.

3) And to complete the operation, using two spanners, tighten the two nuts of the bolts that secure the catalyst to the car’s resonator.

Important! It is best to carry out the work of removing the catalyst on a cold engine, or wearing gloves, because when the engine runs for a long time, the catalyst heats up to very high temperatures, about 600 ° C!

The catalyst is not installed on all cars. Make sure you have one before blaming it for your car's problems))). The catalyst for VAZ 2114 2112 becomes clogged after 100 km of mileage. It may fail earlier if you fill it with low-quality fuel or abuse fuel additives.

How to repair the exhaust system

Repair of exhaust system parts is done only if holes from mechanical impact have been discovered. If the pipe breaks and the tank burns out, it is necessary to completely replace the parts. Their warranty period has expired. It must be said that metal expansion joints are changed in any case, regardless of the condition of the exhaust system.

Due to the fact that the catalyst is very expensive, amateurs weld a stronger instead. The catalyst is cut off, leaving only the connecting flanges together with the flaring. A stronger is welded into the vacant space. This part costs much less than the catalyst. However, the stronger is not able to burn the remaining gasoline. For this reason, it can only be mounted on a car equipped with a lambda probe. After installing the stronger, gasoline consumption increases by approximately 10%.

Cars equipped with engines with 16 valves often have two metal expansion joints attached to the “pants”. The size of such corrugation does not exceed 50 mm. The cost of such a receiving pipe is incredibly high. The industry does not produce metal expansion joints of this size. The only solution is to insert a corrugation measuring 100 mm and then adjust the length. Welding is done end-to-end with the “pants” and the gasket flange.