What are jet rods for the VAZ 2107 needed for? How to replace bushings on the rear jet rods in VAZ cars (classic)

Quite often, the cause of knocking in the area of the rear wheels of a VAZ is wear of the torque rod bushings. Many people change the entire rods, since it is much easier than replacing bushings. But practice shows that the service life of the jet thrust is many times greater than the service life of the bushings, so it makes sense to change only the bushings. It’s not difficult to do it yourself, the main thing is to know the technology.

It is more convenient to carry out all work on replacing rear jet rods on a VAZ 2101-2107 in an inspection pit or overpass. First of all, you need to remove the old jet rod. On one side it is attached to the body, and on the other - to the bridge.

We unscrew the nuts on the bolts, remove or knock out the bolts using a metal spacer and release the reaction rod. Then you need to press out the old metal sleeve. To do this, you need to clamp the torque eye in a vice and knock out the metal bushing using a spacer.

After it is knocked out, removing the rubber bushing is not difficult - just pry it off with a screwdriver. It is best to clean the inside of the eye with a file.

In order to install new bushings on the VAZ, you need to use a vice. First, install the rubber bushing - lubricate the inside of the rod eye and the bushing with soapy water, and then use a vice to press the bushing into the eye. You need to do the same with the metal sleeve. We repeat the procedure for the second eye.

When installing the torque rod, it is best to use new bolts and nuts. Before inserting the bolt into the torque bushing, it is best to lubricate it with lubricant - lithol or. Since the jet thrust changes the angle of its position during operation, the lubricant will protect the bolt from abrasion of the thread. This bolt will be much easier to remove later.

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The knocking noise in the rear wheels of the kopeck, deuce and the next row of classic models of the domestic automobile industry appears from wear on the bushings of the reaction rods or, as they are also called, rods. Almost all classic VAZs in their layout contain these elements necessary for the rear axle.

Some car owners change the entire rod, but to eliminate knocking or other malfunctions, it is enough to change only the bushings, which wear out very quickly, unless, of course, the rod itself is bent or deformed. Naturally, changing a complete rod is much easier than knocking out a worn rubber band and then pressing a new one back in, but this process is more economical and not so complicated.

On the market today you can find many different repair kits, both for complete rods and for bushings separately. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the equipment, and more specifically to the number of large and small rubber spare parts. Most provide sets with 4 large and 6 small bushings. It is better to take a repair kit for the VAZ-2121 in which all the elements are of the same large size. Of course, you will have to tinker with them, but the resulting result will meet all expectations. In addition to rubber bushings, you will also need to purchase metal bushings, which in any case will also need to be replaced.

The procedure for replacing rear torque rod bushings must be carried out in the inspection pit. First of all, you need to unscrew the nuts on the bolts that connect the rod to the car body and the bridge. Then remove the bolts and release the rod itself.

When using the machine for a long time, to carry out this operation, you may need special tools, for example, a metal spacer, with which you can knock out a rusted bolt. After removing the jet thrust, you can begin to knock out the worn bushings. To do this, it is better to clamp the eye of the rod in a vice, and use the same spacer and hammer to knock out the rubber. Once the bushing has moved out of its place, it can be easily removed by prying it off with a screwdriver. As a last resort, if it is already stuck to the metal, the bushing can be pulled out with pliers. After freeing the rod ear from the rubber bushing, its inner surface must be cleaned with sandpaper and the surface wiped with a dry cloth.

When installing a new bushing, you need to make sure that the inner surface of the ear is smooth and free of roughness. Next, the rod and the new elastic band are treated with soapy water in order to avoid much friction. The bushing to be replaced is inserted into the eye of the rod and, using a vice, is carefully and slowly pressed into place. After this, the metal part is installed in the same way. The same actions must be performed with the second part of the jet thrust.

In addition to replacing the bushings, you also need to take care of the bolts and nuts. It is advisable to change them too, because jet thrust is a moving element of the car. The seats of the car body and axle are pre-cleaned and lubricated with special oil. After this, the rod with the replaced bushings is screwed to the body. You can also lubricate the bolts themselves, thus protecting them from corrosion.

Knocks and shaking in VAZ cars mainly depend on the rear thrust rods, so attention should be paid to them, especially since solving the problem does not involve large financial investments and does not require more skill and experience. There were even cases when the rear rod simply burst in the area of the eye and the rear axle “drove” along the road, but the domestic car still kept moving.

Another interesting way to replace the bushing ⇓

Such parts are always made from high-strength and high-quality raw materials. But due to transverse and longitudinal loads, chemicals from the road and water, the product gradually wears out. Most often, the torque rod bushings break, which need to be changed from time to time.

Replacement of silent blocks of VAZ 2107 Lada Master

This type of work is needed quite often on the “seven”. As a rule, the need is caused due to the rapid wear of the elements themselves. The rubber used in manufacturing does not tolerate temperature changes well, which causes the part to begin to deteriorate and does not fulfill its functional purpose. For this reason, experts advise replacing them once a year, and if necessary, more often. The workflow does not cause any difficulties; the simplest tools are enough.

Preparing for work
Required Tools
Changing the upper silent blocks
How to change the lower silent block
Features of replacement on the rear suspension

Preparing for work

Replacing silent blocks begins with selecting the necessary parts. If you make a mistake at this stage, there is a possibility that the next repair work will be approaching.

Drivers often buy parts made of rubber. But they have certain disadvantages - they creak and collapse quite quickly. Experts recommend using polyurethane silent blocks. They cost more, but are more durable and have a longer service life.

This element should be changed as soon as a strong creaking or knocking noise appears. The need for replacement is determined visually. The occurrence of cracks, scuffing, and deformation are the main causes of failure. A silent block malfunction can have a negative impact on all suspension elements.

Required Tools

To carry out the replacement you will need:

hammer, chisel and pry bar;
liquid key and gas burner;
You can’t do without a silent block and ball puller.

Before repair work, it is necessary to treat all threaded areas that need to be disassembled for several hours. The front part of the car should be jacked up and jack stands placed under the car. The wheel is removed from the side where it should be replaced.

Changing the upper silent blocks

The event is simple, but has its own characteristics. Everything is done quite quickly. The nuts securing the bumper and ball joint are unscrewed, which is pressed out with a puller. The nuts of the upper arm are unscrewed and pulled out completely. We remove the silent blocks. We install new ones without using lubricants. The lever is put back, but the nuts are not screwed in tightly. The support is installed, then the wheel, and the car can now be lowered. And only now do we finally tighten the screw.

Sometimes difficulties may arise - the mounting screw will rust. It should be cut with a grinder and pulled out in parts.

How to change the lower silent block

Here everything is a little more complicated. All work will have to be done by car. Unscrew all the fastening nuts of the lever axle. A puller is screwed onto either side to use it to squeeze the silent block out of the socket. The same procedures are performed on the second side. We press-fit parts for replacement. The nuts are screwed on, but not tightened too much. The wheel is put on, the car is lowered to the ground. Now the mount can be tightened as much as possible. If there is no puller, then the entire lever with suspension elements is removed. In this case, the silent block is knocked out with a regular hammer.

Features of replacement on the rear suspension

The levers are removed one by one. They replace the hinges. To make the work easier, you should drive the machine into a pit or use a lift. The main difficulty may arise with the internal bushings, which become sour. But even in this situation, you can use an angle grinder.

If the mounting bolts can be reached without any problems, then replacement is easy. Before pressing in a new bushing, the seat should be cleaned of corrosion and remaining rubber particles. Next, the mating surfaces are coated with a soap solution. Do not use automobile oil and grease, as the rubber may be damaged from their impact. Now the bushing can be driven into the lever with one blow.

Repair work to replace silent blocks is familiar to every driver. This is due to the fact that this element is not reliable and often breaks down, requiring regular replacement. There is nothing complicated about it; even a novice driver can perform all the steps.

What are silent blocks

A silent block is a special hinge made of steel bushings separated by a rubber insert. This element connects the nodes that make up the front suspension, as well as the rear. The soft layer helps dampen the vibration that accompanies vehicle movement.

The part in question can significantly extend the service life of more expensive suspension elements. At the same time, it itself breaks down quite quickly, so it has to be changed periodically.

In the case of the VAZ-2107, silent blocks on:

the front suspension is used to softly fix its arms;
rear - connect reaction rods that attach the chassis directly to the body.

Here it is worth mentioning one important nuance - depending on the location, silent blocks differ in size, so when purchasing an incomplete set you need to be as careful as possible. The parts under consideration are made not only on a rubber basis - there are options where polyurethane is used. The latter are considered the most reliable, but they also cost much more.

Regardless of what type of silent blocks you purchased, you must constantly monitor their condition and change it as soon as its service life expires. This will eliminate a more serious problem - failure of the entire suspension.

Tie rod malfunctions

The jet thrust of the VAZ 2107, like any other car, takes on loads aimed at shifting or rocking the rear axle. If these parts fail, the car’s behavior on the road changes: handling deteriorates, braking distance increases, and even there is a threat of a sudden change in trajectory or the car overturning. What factors cause breakage or wear of steering rods?

Static loads. It is impossible to avoid this factor, but you can reduce it without overloading the car.
Torsional loads. They most often occur when hitting an obstacle. You can reduce them by reducing speed in front of an obstacle.
Chemical effects of water and chemicals sprinkled on roads in winter.

Lower silent block

Replacing parts installed on the lower arm of a VAZ is a more labor-intensive process, because it cannot be removed, which means that all work will have to be done by weight.

The procedure is as follows:

unscrew both nuts securing the lever;
Install a puller on one side of it and pull out the silent block;
do the same on the opposite side;
install new parts and press them into the lever;
screw the nuts, not forgetting to place thrust washers under them;
return the wheel to its place;
lower the car to the ground;
tighten all previously tightened nuts until they stop.

When to change jet rods on a VAZ 2107?

As we mentioned, only high-quality metal is used in the manufacture of rods (usually steel). The latter is able to withstand enormous loads over many years of operation.

The “weak link” of the part is the lugs, which are not a continuation of the rods, but are only welded to them. It is no secret that welding has its own service life. Over time, the joints may become damaged or even collapse.

To eliminate problems in movement and prevent breakage of rods, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the part from time to time.

If signs of destruction, cracks, deformation and other malfunctions appear, the VAZ 2107 jet rods must be replaced.

In this case, pay special attention to silent blocks - they often cannot withstand loads and break. As a result, the fixation of the rods deteriorates, they move relative to the base and cease to perform their functions

At the same time, you should not wait until the rubber bands fail. If knocking noises occur during movement, inspection, or detection of cracks on the rods, replace them immediately. To do this, you don’t need to go to a service station - you can do everything yourself, as it’s not at all difficult.

The procedure for performing repair work

Replacement of a faulty part of the steering mechanism is carried out in the following sequence:

We clean the assembly from dirt using a brush, and apply a penetrating compound to the threaded connections.
Using pliers, remove the fixing cotter pins and, using a spanner wrench or a “22” socket, unscrew the nut on the pin.
The steering rods are detached from the steering knuckle using a special puller. The device is put on the assembly from above and using a bolt, the finger is squeezed out of the eye.

Helpful advice: if you first tap the joint using a copper or bronze drift, the dismantling process will be significantly accelerated.

The manufacturer of the VAZ 2107 recommends replacing worn steering rods as a set. The service life of these structural units from one batch installed on a vehicle is usually the same. Replacing only one of them does not fundamentally solve the problem; a little time will pass and the repair process will have to be repeated for the remaining elements of the system.

Malfunctions of the front suspension of the VAZ 2101

The service life of front suspension elements directly depends on the conditions and intensity of vehicle operation, as well as on the quality of the parts used. Since this or that malfunction manifests itself in different ways, it is worth dwelling on each of them in more detail.

Noises and knocks while driving

Extraneous sounds in the operation of the suspension can occur for a number of reasons:

failure of shock absorbers. In this case, it is necessary to replace the damaged shock absorbers;
wear of silent blocks. “Broken” hinges need to be replaced;
development of the transverse stabilizer in the rubber cushions. Inspection and replacement of worn-out products is required;
The shock absorber rod mount has come loose or the rubber cushions have become unusable. It is necessary to check the fasteners and, if necessary, replace rubber products;
ball joint malfunctions. When a working appears, the failed supports must be replaced;
increased clearance in wheel bearings. It is necessary to adjust the gap, and if the bearings are worn out, parts need to be replaced;
wheel imbalance. It is necessary to check and, if necessary, balance the wheels;
wheel rim damage. The disk needs to be restored or replaced;
spring breakage or sag. The front suspension springs need to be replaced;
damage to the bumpers. Rebound buffers that have become unusable require replacement;
loosening of the upper or lower arms. In this case, it is necessary to check and tighten the nuts and bolts.

Video: causes of knocking in the front suspension

The car is pulled to the side

If the vehicle pulls to the side, then there can be no question of any safety of movement. There may be several reasons for this behavior:

different tire pressures. The correct pressure must be checked and set;
The front wheels are at the wrong angle. A visit to a car service center is required to adjust the wheel alignment;
Excessive play in the wheel bearing. If there is a large gap, adjustment should be made;
The front suspension arms or axle are deformed. Replacement of damaged parts is required;
the springs have uneven subsidence. The front springs need to be replaced;
The brake mechanism is not fully released. The brake mechanism should be checked and the malfunction eliminated;
Tire tread has a big difference in wear. Worn tires need to be replaced;
wheel imbalance. Eliminated in the same way as with knocking in the suspension.

Suspension breakdowns

Sometimes in the operation of the suspension characteristic impacts of metal on metal occur, which is called breakdown. This indicates that one or another part of the suspension does not fulfill its function. The reasons for this phenomenon may be the following:

sag of front springs. Elastic elements need to be replaced;
The shock absorbers have become unusable. If damping devices break or fail, they should be replaced;
deformation of levers. Levers with changed geometry must be replaced with serviceable ones.

There can actually be many more faults in the front suspension. For example, the appearance of squeaks when driving over uneven surfaces may indicate the failure of silent blocks, oil smudges on shock absorbers indicate damage to the product and indicate the need to replace it, etc.

Symptoms of a problem

Every part installed on a machine has a limited service life. Moreover, the actual duration of operation is influenced by the conditions in which it takes place and the intensity of the process.

In the case of silent blocks, their resource is exhausted even when the car is stationary. In this situation, rubber is affected not by mechanical and dynamic loads, but by static loads, cold and heat, contact with fuels and lubricants and a number of other factors. Ultimately, the layer wears out and loses its integrity, which leads to increased vibration, suspension beating, etc.

The manufacturer indicates that the parts discussed in this article can be used for 90,000 kilometers if they are rubber. Next they must be changed. Cheap silent blocks do not have such strength - their service life, at best, is 50-65 percent of that mentioned above.

Polyurethane ones will last approximately 100,000 km, and this, according to many car enthusiasts, is their only advantage. For the rest:

such products are more difficult to install than rubber ones (this is impossible to do without a puller);
the suspension with them noticeably loses its softness.

Car owners who are forced to constantly use broken roads or even drive over rough terrain must remember: the moment for replacement in this case occurs after 50,000 kilometers of the vehicle.

The following very obvious signs indicate a faulty joint:

the car reacts late to sharp turns of the steering wheel;
while driving, a knock appears from the front suspension if the car crosses a bumpy area;
the presence of any deformations detected during regular inspection of parts, or any play that has appeared in them.

An important point - if you are not confident in your ability to well determine the condition of silent blocks, then it is better to entrust their inspection to the service station workers.

As noted above, before replacing, you should select high-quality new parts. Workshops usually recommend polyurethane ones, but not everyone can afford them, and therefore it is permissible to buy genuine rubber ones.

Purpose of thrust rods on the VAZ 2107

Tie rods provide protection against swaying and loss of control on the road, during sharp turns and obstacles. Even earlier versions of the car had similar problems. But inside the cars there were only ordinary springs; no one knew anything about the system with rods.

It is for this reason that the vehicle caused many problems when driving. Only over time the suspension was modified. A system was installed with several long rods. This part carried the main load.

Classic VAZ 2107 cars and other models contain the following version of the torque rod kit:

Long.
Short.
A large transverse one, which also serves as the basis for the entire system.

Installation location - near the car axle located at the rear. The system is visible only from the inspection hole, where repair work is usually carried out if the reaction rods are replaced.

What is a silent block

Front arm bushings made of polyurethane

These parts are typical hinges made of metal and rubber. They are designed to neutralize noise, shocks, and various vibrations that occur when driving on our roads, which are not always of the highest quality. These parts are installed in reaction rods, supports, levers, and shock absorbers.

Rubber and polymer silent blocks that have become unusable should be replaced as quickly as possible. Failure of parts of levers and other suspension components significantly worsens the vehicle’s maneuverability and increases wear on the rubber of the front wheels, resulting in camber and toe problems.

Before replacing silent blocks on a rear-wheel drive VAZ 2107, you need to prepare the following tool:

devices to facilitate the pressing process;
remover for VAZ 2107 silent blocks and control tips;
jack;
a set of open-end and ring wrenches for “22” and “13”;
perfectly sharpened chisel;
plumber's hammer;
mount.

Without these tools, it is very difficult to replace worn parts. High-quality new rubber, or better yet polymer, silent blocks for VAZ will also come in handy. The products “Track” and “SEVI” have proven themselves to be excellent.

FakeHeader

Comments 7

Hello. Two years have passed. I just came across your story. Now I was tightening the upper silent blocks, the rubber bands on the outside stupidly came out from under the washers. And I didn’t make it to 60. I’m sitting here scratching my turnips. True, my graphics are blurry. But the lower ones were also lubricated, they were tightened for 80 minutes and did not come out.

Hello! Thank you for remembering) The range is 60-90 N*m because our rubber products are produced according to specifications. It’s not clear to anyone what specifications a particular manufacturer has. You shouldn’t pinch the rubber bands—that’s a fact. My silent blocks drove for 3000, then I swapped them as is with levers onto a friend’s car, tightened them by eye - and it’s still running.

About modernization of jet thrusts

Sometimes drivers decide to independently increase the reliability of the VAZ 2107 suspension and extend its service life. To this end, they are modernizing jet thrust. Typically, modernization of rods means two operations. Here they are:

installation of dual jet rods;
installation of reinforced jet thrusts.

Now a little more about each of the above operations.

Twin rods

Most often, drivers install dual rods on the VAZ 2107. The reason is obvious: for this procedure you don't have to do anything with the pulls. You simply purchase not one, but two sets of rods that are installed in a regular place near the rear axle of the “seven”. Plus, you purchase not ordinary, but elongated mounting bolts, on which this entire structure rests.

The obvious advantage of such modernization is the increase in the reliability of the suspension: even if one of the tie rods breaks while driving, the car is unlikely to lose control and the driver will always have a chance to notice the problem in time and stop (a break in the tie rod is almost always accompanied by a strong knock on the bottom of the car, which cannot be heard this is simply impossible). This design also has a drawback: the suspension becomes stiffer. If earlier it “eaten up” small unevenness in the road without any problems, now the driver will feel even small pebbles and holes while driving.

Replacing bushings and silent blocks on VAZ 2107 rods

Silent blocks with bushings are disposable parts that need to be replaced immediately. In a garage, restoring parts becomes impossible. To replace you will need to acquire the following things:

The beard is 10 mm in diameter.
Hammer.
Press-fitting device. It may also be needed when the rear axle is being repaired.

Sequencing

Follow the above instructions when removing the traction. Parts must be pre-treated with WD-40. A wire brush helps remove dirt and dust. Further actions are performed according to the specified algorithm:

After removing the rod, the bushing should be removed without problems;

But this behavior is typical for parts without serious rust, with severe wear. Otherwise, you will have to use a hammer to knock the structure out of its place. The beard is inserted inside first.

They get rid of the silent block if the rubber part is damaged too much. Use a screwdriver or a mounting shovel to pry up parts that prevent everything from being freed; Using a sharp knife or sandpaper, carefully clean the surface of the eyelet inside. Remains of rubber and rust should then disappear completely; A new bushing is placed in the eye and pressing is carried out using new equipment; The beard helps with this part of the job.

The main thing is to act carefully to avoid damage.

Diagnostics of rubber-metal joints

To check the condition of silent blocks, you need to use a pit or overpass. Without such amenities, it will be problematic to drive the seven, so there should be a pit in every garage. therefore, it can be repaired by hand without any problems. But you need to determine whether the VAZ-2107 silent blocks need to be replaced; the price of one is approximately 50 rubles. For a set of 8 silent blocks you will pay 400 rubles.

Carefully inspect the suspension on the lever, evaluate the appearance of the rubber-metal hinge. If the rubber has obvious damage - it has begun to become cracked, or there are any cuts at all, then all elements must be replaced. When carrying out repairs, try to do as much work as possible. Therefore, you not only change all eight silent blocks, but also, after assessing the condition of the balls, replace them if necessary. It is also worth looking at the condition and tightening the nut if necessary.

Replacing silent blocks

The process of replacing silent blocks of the VAZ-2106 suspension can be divided into two stages:

Replacement of front suspension joints (upper and lower arms).
Replacing the silent blocks of the rear suspension torque rods.

Replacing the silent blocks of the upper arms

Replacing the silent blocks of one of the upper arms of the VAZ-2106 with your own hands is carried out in the following order (not forgetting about safety precautions):

Loosen the bolts securing the desired wheel and jack up the car.
Remove the wheel.
Using two 13mm wrenches, unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint.
Using two 22mm wrenches, remove the lever nut, remove the axle and dismantle the upper lever.

Press out the hinge using a special puller

The lever is fixed in a vice and, by tightening the puller bolt, the hinge is squeezed out of its seat.
The second hinge is pressed out in the same way.
Using the same puller, press in new parts and install the upper arm in place. To do this, repeat the steps in reverse order.
Worn parts on the second lever are changed in the same way.

Replacing the silent blocks of the lower arms

Replace the rubber-metal joints on the lower arms in a similar way. Only in this case the latter are not removed from the car.

Procedure:

Remove the desired wheel.
Using a 22mm wrench, unscrew the axle nuts on both sides of the lever and remove the thrust washers.
Screw the hollow bolt of the puller onto the axle. Then you need to tighten the nut, holding the bolt from turning. The puller glass will put pressure on the lower arm, gradually moving it away from the hinge.

Insert the new hinge into place and center it in the hole, pressing the lever with a mounting blade. Then, installing the puller stop on the inside of the last one, press it in.
Similar operations are carried out with the remaining silent blocks, after which all the removed parts are returned to their places.

Important! The hinges need to be finally tightened only after the car is placed on its wheels. Experienced drivers even recommend driving 250...300 meters on loose fasteners

Only after this they will take the correct position and the nuts can be tightened.

Replacement of silent blocks of rear suspension torque rods

In order to replace worn silent blocks on VAZ-2106 thrust rods, you must:

Place the car on a viewing hole or overpass.
Remove all jet rods in the following order:

long transverse rod;
long pull to the right;
left long pull;
short left pull;
right short pull.

The rubber-metal joints of the torque rods are changed using procedures that are similar to those given above when describing the replacement of the silent blocks of the VAZ-2106 front suspension.

More information about the technology for replacing silent blocks of VAZ-2106 jet thrusts can be found at:

Adviсe!

Before pressing the rubber bushings in, they must be “lubricated” with a soap solution. The use of machine or motor oil is not allowed, since they are made of non-oil and petrol resistant rubber.
When installing the jet rods in place, do not forget to lubricate all fasteners with graphite grease or nigrol. Otherwise, the next replacement of silent blocks on a VAZ-2106 will begin with cutting off the torque rod mounting bolts.

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Installation of traction is done as follows:

First, the rod is mounted in the front bracket. Before inserting the bolt into the desired hole, it is treated with nigrol;
The reaction rod is placed in the rear bracket. Don't be surprised if the holes at the mounting location don't line up.

If the jet rod was broken, then the bridge would move all the time under load. This led to the shift.

To adjust the holes, you need to use a mounting spatula, resting it on the bracket, and unscrew the bridge until the fasteners align. When they match, you need to insert the bolt and secure it with a nut.

With the help of such manipulations, you will be able to replace the jet rods with your own hands and save money on visiting a service station.

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On the market today you can find many different repair kits, both for complete rods and for bushings separately

When purchasing, you should pay attention to the equipment, and more specifically to the number of large and small rubber spare parts. Most provide sets with 4 large and 6 small bushings. It is better to take a repair kit for the VAZ-2121 in which all the elements are of the same large size

Of course, you will have to tinker with them, but the resulting result will meet all expectations. In addition to rubber bushings, it will be necessary to purchase metal bushings, which in any case will also need to be replaced

It is better to take a repair kit for the VAZ-2121 in which all the elements are of the same large size. Of course, you will have to tinker with them, but the resulting result will meet all expectations. In addition to rubber bushings, you will also need to purchase metal bushings, which in any case will also need to be replaced.

How to replace the upper silent block

First of all, unscrew the vertical bolt that serves to secure the front bumper - without this you will not be able to get to the axle. Then remove the nut holding the ball joint, and then press the finger out of its bipod with a puller.

After:

disconnect the upper arm from the body (you will need two 22 mm wrenches);
fix the latter in a vice;
Using a puller, remove the silent block and put a new part in its place.

Now all that remains is to assemble the entire assembly, proceeding in the reverse sequence described. And at the very end you need to do the following:

turn the steering wheel;
Tighten the bolt and nut holding the upper arm until snug.

Replacing jet rods on a VAZ 2107

It is necessary to prepare a kit with tools and consumables in advance. Their main list is as follows:

Hammer;
Set with open-end wrenches. The reinforced double type parts are sometimes difficult to remove without additional tools;
Blades for installation;
WD-40 – this composition removes rust;
A set with new reaction rods, including a transverse one.

When everything is ready, they begin the work itself.

Removing jet rods

Removing old parts is the first step where work begins.

The process involves the following sequence:

A wire brush is used to remove rust and dirt from threaded connections. Then WD-40 is used for processing. You will need to wait some time before the work can continue. The instructions are also relevant for the classic model.
Completely unscrew the nut, due to which the washer is held on the free side. This process is difficult, it is better to take a long wrench and, if necessary, re-treat the surface with WD-40.
Dismantling the bolt and nut, moving to the other side. The rear parts are dismantled in almost the same way.
Unscrewing the nut from the lower shock absorber mounting. The bolt with the spacer sleeve is also removed.
Shift towards the shock absorber itself. Otherwise you won't be able to access the second bolt.
Clean the bolt threads with a wire brush, then apply WD-40 again.
Unscrew the nut and pull out the bolt. The elastic band also changes if necessary.

The bolt is simply cut off if the nut cannot be unscrewed. Removing the reaction rods involves using a spatula for installation. Remains of the fastening must be removed if the bolt had to be cut off.

Reverse welding of cracks will not help when they appear on the surface. The seam then still cannot withstand the load. Such parts can only be replaced in full.

Repair and installation of jet rods

Reuse is permissible only if the metal part remains intact. Rubber silent blocks must be replaced in any case. The old parts are removed from the lugs and then new ones are installed. Treating the surface with dishwashing detergent simplifies this process.

New rods are installed in the following order:

The traction eye is mounted in the front bracket;
The securing bolt is lubricated with nigrol, lithol. Everything is inserted into the bracket and tightened with a nut;
The tie rod eye is inserted into the rear tie rod bracket;
Insert the bolt with lubricant, then secure with a nut.

A situation is acceptable when the holes at the traction eye and the bracket do not coincide with each other. Then take a mounting blade and, if possible, correct the current position.

The lower part of the shock absorber at the rear is secured when the bulk of the work is completed.

Repair and installation of jet rods

If the metal part of the rod is in good condition, they can be reused. It is only necessary to replace the rubber silent blocks. To do this, you need to remove the old parts from the eyes and press in new ones. You can make pressing easier by lubricating the surface with dishwashing detergent (it does not corrode the rubber).

Installation of new rods is carried out as follows:

install the linkage eye in the front bracket;
lubricate the fastening bolt with nigrol or lithol, insert into the bracket and tighten with a nut;
install the rear bracket traction eye;
insert the fastening bolt, lubricated with nigrol or lithol, and tighten the nut.

Due to the displacement of the rear axle, the holes in the bracket and the linkage eye may not align. In this case, it is necessary to correct the position of the rod using a mounting blade.

After installing the links, you need to secure the lower part of the rear shock absorber.

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When a VAZ-2107 needs to replace jet rods

As previously mentioned, rods are made of high-quality metal (mainly steel). This raw material can withstand heavy loads over many years of use.

The weak point of the rods is the eyes. These parts are welded to the rods and are not a continuation of them, and the welding has a certain service life. Over time, the solder joints may gradually become damaged or destroyed.

To avoid problems when driving and to prevent malfunction of the rods, you need to periodically check the condition of the spare parts. If deformation, cracks, or signs of destruction occur, the reaction rods must be replaced.

In this case, there is no need to wait for the rubber bands to fail. If knocking noises occur while the vehicle is moving, inspect and identify damage to the rods, change them immediately. To do this, you don’t have to go to a service station; you can do everything yourself.

Purpose of silent blocks

A silent block is a special hinge that is made of two components (rubber and metal). The main purpose of the parts is to neutralize shocks, noise and vibrations that inevitably arise during movement. The oil change in the VAZ 2107 engine is carried out every 15 thousand kilometers. Moreover, if the car is used in the city, it is best to reduce it. The parts themselves are installed in torque rods, shock absorbers, levers, supports, etc.

Failure of such components is very unsafe - the car loses maneuverability, tire wear increases, and wheel alignment is disrupted. In general, it creates a danger for upcoming traffic and there is a risk of getting into an accident. In such a situation, it is important to know how to change silent blocks on a VAZ 2107

, which new ones to buy and where to find time for repairs.

How to replace jet rods on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Note! If you decide to replace all the rods, then think about replacing the bolts, what this will give you, firstly, it will be more pleasant to work with new bolts, and secondly, the nuts will be screwed much easier on the thread than will happen with old rusty bolts , and thirdly, in the future, if you have to work with the rods again, the new bolts will be much easier to unscrew and knock out (Nothing will rust because in a short time), but we recommend replacing the bolts only if the old bolts have already deteriorated and everything is rusty!

1. Absolutely all the links that are present in the rear suspension of a classic car are removed identically, so we will not show a separate photo about each link and explain how it changes, let’s take the central link as an example (Others are removed in the same way, but there are some nuances, we will we’ll indicate everything), in general, let’s get started, first of all, lubricate the bolts and nuts securing the torque rods with a penetrating lubricant (This can be WD-40), then let the lubricant soak thoroughly (5 minutes is enough) and after waiting for that, you can start working.

2. First of all, take two wrenches (One of which should be a spanner, and the other a knob and head, this is much more convenient) and holding the bolt from turning with one, unscrew the nut with the other, as soon as the operation is completed, knock out the bolt using the handle of a hammer or using something similar (the bolt can be completely knocked out with a drift or another bolt of a suitable size), then lift the rod to the top and clean the entire seat from dirt, if there is any dirt on the metal eyes (This is where the bolt is inserted that secures the rod, there are two eyes in total, on one end the head of the bolt sticks out, and on the other there is a nut) traces of rust are found, then in this case take sandpaper and clean it off, on the other side the central link (Where it is attached to the body) is disconnected in the same way, after disconnecting, remove completely traction from the car.

3. We have sorted out the central links, if you decide to remove the transverse rod, you need to unscrew it in exactly the same way (It is attached to the sides), but there is one problem in the installation, when the rod is removed, the angles of the rear wheels change (They collapse) and therefore when the new link If you bring it up, you will find that the hole for the bolt will not match (see photo below), but you can overcome this by inserting a powerful screwdriver into the hole and forcefully aligning these two holes and pulling it out, on the other hand immediately insert a bolt that will be hammered in later you will have to tighten the nut of this bolt, and the rod will be completely installed.

4. And let’s say a few words about the last links, they are the most difficult to change, because there you will also need to unscrew the lower part of the rear shock absorber (How to unscrew the rear shock absorber from below, read the article entitled: “”, paragraph 2-5), after To do this, fold back the lower part of the shock absorber so that it does not interfere and do exactly the same actions as with the other rods, that is, with one key, hold the bolt from turning, and with the other, unscrew the nut, knocking out the bolt, disconnect the rod from one end, it is completely disconnected from the body identically.

5. During all the replacement operations, you will only have problems with the bolts, namely, it will be very difficult to put them back in, especially you won’t be able to put them back in if you work with the rear wheels hanging, we will give advice, almost always when replacing the suspension tie rods should be loaded, sometimes it should be heavily loaded, sometimes even the wheels will have to touch the ground just a little. You take all this into account and, in connection with these features, adjust the height and degree of loading of the rear suspension of the car.

Note! And by the way, so that the bolts can be easily removed in the future and the threads do not turn sour, we recommend that you lubricate them with solid oil before installation, and then in the future they will easily come loose, even if you don’t want to change the rods yourself after a while but take the car to a service station, then for lubricated bolts will only thank you, so take this into account and there will be much fewer problems with bolts!

Additional video clip: A detailed video clip that explains the process of replacing all torque rods on a classic car is attached just below:

Preparatory stage

Whatever type of elements you choose, replacing them on the seventh VAZ model is done in the same way. You will need a number of tools and materials during the process. Here is the list:

pullers for the ball joint and the silent block itself;
chisel with hammer;
crowbar or pry bar;
set of spanners;
VD-40;
clean rags.

Before work you will need:

place the VAZ on a level surface and turn on the handbrake;
raise the front of the car with a jack;
install a more stable support under it;
remove the front wheels.

Spray all the bolts and nuts that you plan to unscrew with penetrating lubricant in advance - this will significantly simplify the task.

What links are included in the rear suspension?

The Chevy Niva bridge is held in place using five parts. To prevent longitudinal and transverse displacement, four longitudinal rods (two each: front and rear) and one transverse rod are used. At the ends of the products there are eyes into which silent blocks are inserted to prevent knocking in the suspension. One end of the rod is attached to the bridge, the other to the car body.

The parts have the same diameter and differ only in length. The longest is the transverse thrust. The length of the elements ensures vertical mobility of the rear axle. Thanks to this, the silent blocks do not twist, even if the suspension moves by the full stroke of the shock absorber.

Purpose of thrust rods on the VAZ 2107

It is for this reason that the vehicle caused many problems when driving. Only over time the suspension was modified. A system was installed with several long rods. This part carried the main load.

Classic VAZ 2107 cars and other models contain the following version of the torque rod kit:

Long.
Short.
A large transverse one, which also serves as the basis for the entire system.

Installation location - near the car axle located at the rear. The system is visible only from the inspection hole, where repair work is usually carried out if the reaction rods are replaced.