Hello, dear friends! I would like to study in more detail such an issue as replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester. Many people strive to carry out such a procedure, sometimes without understanding what it can lead to.
But I will try to be as objective as possible. I will tell you not only about the consequences, but also about what positive aspects arise when replacing the standard catalyst in the exhaust system of a car with a flame arrester or stronger. This is the same concept, but it is the flame arrester that is most widespread among car enthusiasts.
This is not to say that this is a universal element that can be installed always and everywhere. We need to understand this issue and get the most important answers.
What to make a flame arrester from
A flame arrester made from two containers will have an increased service life and good performance.
The housing should be made of stainless steel. In the inner part you will need to place traps, or funnels. The flow of exhaust gases begins to swirl, the speed of this flow decreases and its temperature decreases. It is important to calculate its size when making your own flame arrester. To do this, you should proceed from the engine size and the loads under which it will have to work.
The most common materials used in making a fire extinguisher with your own hands are pipes of different diameters. One is inserted into the other, the ends are thoroughly welded. Sometimes a lot of holes are simply drilled into the inner tube. The space between them is densely filled with material that absorbs unwanted sounds.
A simple substance well suited for this is stone or mineral wool, used in construction to insulate rooms. In addition to high sound insulation, it will not allow the outer casing to heat up too much
At the same time, mineral wool does not weigh much, which is also important
A collector-type flame arrester will last less due to its location. Since it is closer to the combustion chamber, the device will be exposed to higher temperatures. For this reason, it will burn out faster than a flow-through flame arrester.
Welding work should be given increased attention, since during operation it is the welded seams that are most vulnerable. It is they who, after a short period of time, may cause the need for additional repair work.
Alternatively, you can use the outer casing of a deteriorated catalyst. It is cut with a grinder and the insides are removed. Flame arrestor elements are installed in their place, which are also lined with stone wool.
DIY flame arrester
How to install a flame arrester instead of a catalyst with your own hands
As you know, a catalyst in the exhaust system of cars is used to purify exhaust gases required by Euro standards. Along with purifying exhaust gases, the catalyst also has its own big disadvantage - it delays the release of exhaust gases and thereby “strangles” the engine, taking away precious 5-10 horsepower. In addition, the catalyst has a service life and over time it can clog, bake and crumble, thereby causing a rattling sound, poor throughput and, most importantly, increase fuel consumption and worsen the dynamics of the car.
Removing the catalyst on a car improves the car's dynamics and reduces fuel consumption. Sports tuning studios definitely remove the catalyst and offer its replacement with a flame arrester. The flame arrester is direct-flow in design and does not delay the release of exhaust gases and at the same time performs a very important function: it “extinguishes the flame” coming out of a running engine, which can eventually burn through the rear muffler can.
This is why it is so important not to just cut out the catalyst and weld a straight pipe in its place, or simply open the catalyst, gut it and close it back, but to install a flame arrester instead of the removed catalyst. It is very difficult and sometimes impossible to select a flame arrester for a certain brand of car, and ordering it from another party is time consuming and expensive.
Not having found a suitable flame arrester for my car, I decided to make it myself, no special equipment is required, the main thing is the presence of direct hands and material. So let's move on to the procedure for making a flame arrester, for this we need two iron pipes, one with a diameter equal to the diameter of the exhaust pipe of the muffler, the second with a larger diameter and steel mesh brushes for washing dishes. On a pipe equal to the muffler pipe, we cut holes with a diameter of 3 mm (using gas welding or a drill) around the entire circle and length. Then we insert this pipe in the center into a pipe of larger diameter and weld it on one side.
Then we stretch the mesh brushes in a circle in the form of a ring, put them on a pipe of a smaller diameter and push them tightly with a metal strip until it rests on the closed end of a pipe of a larger diameter. We continue this procedure until the last mesh brush reaches the free end of a larger diameter pipe. It will take approximately 25 mesh brushes to fill the empty space.
After this, we bend the ends of the pipe of larger diameter, pre-cut with a grinder, and scald them in a circle. This procedure helps to avoid unnecessary ringing noises from the flame arrester during engine operation. For beauty, you can paint the resulting flame arrester with silver aerosol paint. The flame arrester is ready! Now, with peace of mind, we cut out the catalyst and weld a flame arrester in its place.
The first signs of a dying catalyst are:
1. the smell of engine exhaust gases is similar to rotten eggs,
2. The car stalls when accelerating and picks up speed perfectly for a short time if you turn off the engine and let the catalyst cool for ten minutes.
If the catalyst is ceramic, then you need to be careful of hitting it with stones, hitting the ground and other objects.
What can be done if the catalyst has died and the engine does not even start:
1. remove the old catalyst and install a new one (if there is nowhere to put the money).
2. remove the catalyst, knock out all the contents from it and put it in place (not recommended for a long time, since the entire remaining exhaust gas system will soon burn out).
Finally, some useful advice: if your car has covered 100,000 km or more, there is no point in installing a new catalyst. Low oil consumption that is not even visible to your eye, domestic gasoline of wonderful quality, less than ideal performance of the injectors and ignition system, all this leads to rapid failure of the catalyst. It makes sense to think about replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester, and it is not expensive and practical.
Reviews from real users about the replacement
There are many myths spread on the Internet about how installing a flame arrester can harm the engine and literally render it unusable. Such statements do not correspond to the real state of affairs, which is confirmed by positive reviews from motorists on forums. Here are some of them:
We replaced both catalysts with flame arresters + installed additional ones. resonator to reduce noise. Everyone is happy. Re-flashing is, of course, done automatically. Office under the Severyaninsky Bridge, Yaroslavskoe Highway 3. After the replacement, we had to additionally replace the spark plugs that were killed due to a faulty catalyst. Noise is normal, there is practically no difference. When you press the accelerator sharply, it literally presses you into the seat. You can “polish”, etc. Which, in principle, should be observed in a Sorento with 3.5 liters. v6. Considering that there is practically no alternative (either more expensive gasoline or annual replacement of standard catalysts), the solution is optimal for the gasoline option.
massterr
https://sorento.kia-club.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?p=30170
I have two catalysts, they were knocked out for me 2 years ago. The result is a nasty rattling sound when picking up speed, strong steam from the pipe and constant burning of the resonator-muffler gasket. We decided to weld the simplest flame arrester into the places of the former catalysts. A flame arrester is a pipe with a bunch of holes and a housing on top. The method is interesting because it does not require any costs, the pipes were found somewhere, a grinder and welding were from a neighbor in the village. Now there is no sound like an empty bucket, and, as it seemed to me, it has become quieter. Another peculiarity I noticed: after installing the flame arresters, a clicking sound appeared when they cooled down, after I turned off the car.
PetrK21
https://forums.drom.ru/toyota-vitz-yaris-platz-echo-funcargo-ist-bb-will-vi-sienta/t1151607567.html
Several times in the literature I have come across the opinion that simply knocking out the kat is not entirely correct. Moreover, the inlet and outlet holes in the standard cat are not on the same axis, they are offset relative to each other (Perhaps this does not matter much, but I wanted to make everything as straight as possible). In the literature it was proposed to change the cat to a stronger or direct-flow flame arrester (as it was called in magazines), I decided to go with the latter option. Judging from the descriptions, the device is simple. In fact, it is a volume filled with fireproof material with a perforated pipe inside. I decided to make it myself and integrate it into the standard system. According to the result: the engine turns much faster and easier, at idle the needle simply throws over 4000, while on the old motor it was quite difficult to reach this mark. While driving, the traction has improved, it pulls from a lower number of revolutions. Today on the way to work I didn’t turn it up to 3000 rpm even once, I shouldn’t have. It feels like the car has become lighter, like I unloaded a box of bricks from the trunk.
Ilich
https://vwts.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=87010&st=0
The check light came on, I went to the service center and they said the catalyst was finished. I knocked them both out and put everything back in place. But the sound became louder and somehow ringing. I surfed the Internet and decided to make a flame arrester and a spacer for the lambda. The inside of the flame arrester was stuffed with Rockwool Light Bats (I had it on hand). Holds temperatures up to 1000 degrees. It was possible to get large chips, but it was more difficult to find. I installed it all in place. The sound became noticeably quieter and dull, this annoying ringing disappeared. And the corrugation, I think, will burn out more slowly.
Artemon
https://www.sonata-club.ru/forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=8198
Types of exhaust system resonators
Pros and cons of replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester
Additional mufflers are divided into 2 types depending on the engines with which they are used:
- For two-stroke engines. If such a motor is installed on the car, then it is necessary to use a resonator. The fact is that the absence of this device will lead to increased gasoline consumption, the elimination of unburned fuel and gas removal. The speed of the car will decrease.
- For four strokes. In this case, the resonator becomes more of a problem than a solution. If you dismantle it, this will lead to an increase in engine power by 15%.
The resonators also differ in design. There are standard monoblock products, but increasingly, car enthusiasts prefer combined models. They consist of two parts: a classic design equipped with a pipe and partitions and a chamber filled with a special noise-absorbing material (most often basalt fiber). Combined resonators are considered more modern and efficient.
In addition, small mufflers come in short, medium and long. They also differ in volume. It is worth noting that the effectiveness of this device directly depends on this indicator. If the volume is not enough, then when you press the gas sharply, the noise will increase greatly.
Small mufflers are made from different materials. Inexpensive models are made from aluminized steel; by and large, this is ordinary steel with a thin layer of aluminum applied to it. This allows you to protect the product from corrosion for some time.
Healthy! The most durable and high-quality products are considered to be those made of stainless steel with a double body.
Since the exhaust system, including the resonator, is constantly exposed to high temperatures, this leads to frequent malfunctions. In order to avoid an unpleasant surprise, it is recommended to periodically diagnose this component of the car and identify possible “symptoms” of malfunctions.
Preliminary nuances
Let's start with the simple concept of a catalyst, which for some reason they want to replace with their own hands or the hands of a craftsman with a flame arrester. The catalyst is a device that is part of the exhaust system. It serves to purify gases produced during fuel combustion from all kinds of impurities.
But if this device breaks down or becomes dirty, returning it to its original level of performance is not so easy. In fact, car owners make one of 2 decisions. In the first case, they buy a new part and install it in place of the old one. The second option is to replace the catalyst with a device called a flame arrester. He's a strongman. At the same time, there is a lot of controversy and talk around the second method. Motorists sometimes do not understand why they should do this, what such modification will do and whether it will worsen the performance of the car.
Car enthusiasts are divided into 2 camps. Some argue that installing a stronger is an excellent tuning solution. Others are confident that such modernization will only cause harm.
But how dangerous would it actually be to remove the catalyst? And if this is harmful, then why do service stations actively offer this service in Yekaterinburg, St. Petersburg, cities such as Moscow, Voronezh, Volgograd and other parts of the country? And the price isn't that bad.
It's all about the myths that have formed around flame arresters. They look like this:
- the motor begins to quickly fail;
- the muffler breaks down;
- the engine is very noisy;
- exhaust gases become more dangerous in their composition;
- great harm is caused to nature;
- in the cabin you can be poisoned by the exhaust;
- the engine consumes fuel in huge quantities;
- motor life is reduced significantly;
- the exhaust system lasts quite a bit, etc.
But it was not in vain that I focused on the fact that these are myths. Most of them are very far from the truth.
Therefore, now we need to study all the pros and cons, consider the essence and concept of a flame arrester, and come to the appropriate conclusions.
Stronger instead of a catalyst. 9 features of this replacement.
Stronger instead of a catalyst. 9 features of this replacement.
Replacing a catalyst with a flame arrester: what consequences can there be
Today, markets are inundated with strongers. But, far from it, not every one of them can be installed instead of a catalyst. And all because not all of them have the proper quality.
If you install a stronger (flame arrester) instead of a catalyst, then only one that can actually replace it. Flame arrestors are a kind of deception that convinces the car of the presence of a catalyst. Chinese and similar inventions are not able to display all the functions of a high-quality flame arrester. The most popular are Polish and German made. Among these two options, greater preference is given to Polish products, since they are distinguished by reasonable prices and high quality. The price for Polish stronger is not much higher than for Chinese and other counterfeits, but the quality is identical to branded brands.
Universal strongers.
Universal flame arresters are the optimal replacement for a catalyst if the car owner plans to build a sports exhaust system and other tuning upgrades.
For a more detailed description of strongers, it is necessary to consider each model separately, but since there are many varieties and each type cannot be described, you will have to approach the classification in a more generalized way. For example, Poland offers a stronger (flame arrester), which has a number of advantages and, unfortunately , disadvantages:
- The possibility of burning is excluded.
- Reflects and absorbs sound waves.
- Adds power from 1 to 5 HP.
- Low price for stronger.
- Thanks to this flame arrester, the engine does not clog.
The disadvantages of such strongers are:
- The exhaust system is rapidly losing its relevance due to afterburning of fuel.
- The degree of sound reflection is ambiguous, that is, the resulting sound intensity depends on the engine size.
- Installing a stronger in new cars (Euro 2 and similar) requires re-flashing for these car brands.
- This option is not suitable for environmentalists, since the toxicity of exhaust gases is high.
The Chinese flame arrester and its analogues do not have any “pros” (exception: low price for a stronger), while the “cons” are much higher.
Does it make sense to change the catalyst to a stronger one?
The catalyst is a kind of obstacle that prevents the creation of a direct-flow exhaust system. The only correct way out is to install a stronger. It is, at its core, a high quality resonator. The principle of its operation does not allow burnout.
Where to order and how to choose a flame arrester?
Buying the first flame arrester you like is wrong. They are selected depending on the car model and personal requests. Accordingly, if the consumer is not familiar with all the properties, then it is better to consult with the manager of the store where you plan to purchase the stronger. Buying “blindly” is a mistake, since an incorrectly selected flame arrester will not bring the benefit that is expected from it. If the car enthusiast knows exactly what he needs, then he should indicate some information when ordering:
- Case dimensions.
- The width of the pipe entering the catalyst.
Choosing a seller is also an important point. Some stores sell cheap spare parts. Therefore, before purchasing, you need to ask what manufacturers the seller works with.
Why replace the catalyst with a flame arrester?
There are a number of reasons for this:
- Increasing car power. The flame arrester returns to the machine the power that was previously consumed by the catalyst, and also easily allows previously trapped gases to pass through. As a result, the car moves easier.
- Saving. There is no need to buy an expensive catalyst for a specific car model. The difference in price is noticeable - on average, more than 4 times.
- The ability to fill with gasoline with a lower octane number - therefore cheaper.
In addition, the load on the engine is reduced and it lasts an order of magnitude longer.
Another interesting option is when removing the particulate filter, move the standard (factory) resonator to the place of the particulate filter (may not be on all cars). The process involves cutting out the factory optional muffler, after which it is inserted directly into the forward flow using a 4-piece connection. This option is not too different from the first, except for eliminating one of the thickenings under the car bottom.
To make an appointment to replace the resonator, call us by phone or use the form on the website. The car service is located in St. Petersburg, on Kantemirovskaya Street, 39D. We guarantee high-quality diagnostics and service at reasonable prices.
The essence of a stronger
Based on the principle of operation, there is much in common between a damper and a resonator. But the task of the first is to dampen sound waves and vibrations from the engine, as well as at the same time reduce the temperature of the exhaust gases.
In simple words, you can describe a stronger like this. This is a device that performs 2 functions simultaneously. Namely, it reduces the temperature, lowering it to a level that is safe for the car and specifically the exhaust system itself, and also reduces the noise level. This automatically refutes some of the myths presented earlier. Thus, you can already draw some of your own conclusions regarding the fairness of blaming the flame arrester for all the troubles associated with the exhaust system of the car.
If we talk about installation, it is carried out on the car muffler pipe, or in the exhaust manifold itself. This allows you to distinguish the main (on the pipe) and collector stronger.
Moreover, according to experts, there is no significant difference in noise level. After replacement, as confirmed by reviews from motorists, the noise of the car even decreases.
Why do they replace?
I won’t tell anyone a secret if I say that the decision to replace the catalyst with a flame arrester is largely due to the economic component. That is, the car owner simply wants to save money.
Just look at the cost of this element.
If we take into account even domestic cars, the price tag will look impressive. Now imagine that your VAZ has already covered about 200-300 thousand kilometers
And here the need arises to change the catalyst. Such a purchase will cost 50-70 thousand rubles. Agree, the amount is more than serious. And compare it with the cost of a flame arrester, the price of which is several times less. Some even make it with their own hands from a piece of pipe, making many holes in it. Then the price will be completely zero.
If you decide to install such a design for yourself, do not forget about the mandatory equipment of a stronger with blende. Decoy, catalyst emulator, lambda decoy. Call it what you want. This will not change the essence.
The lambda decoy serves to correct the incoming signal from the oxygen sensor to the electronic control unit of your car. Moreover, it is necessary to install such a device if a flame arrester is installed in place of the catalyst.
Without doing this, the ECU will begin to perceive the operation of the exhaust system as problematic, and the emergency mode of operation of the internal combustion engine will begin to constantly turn on. This will result in a decrease in engine life and an increase in fuel consumption.
Similar designs, made from stronger and blende, can be installed on any car:
The use of deception should not be ignored. You already know about the consequences of such a rash decision.
Advantages and disadvantages
In conclusion, I propose to look at the pros and cons, that is, at the possible negative and positive consequences if you replace the standard catalyst with a not quite standard flame arrester.
The positive aspects include the following:
- lower costs for the purchase and installation of a stronger;
- the possibility of switching to cheaper fuel of lower grades;
- increase in engine power;
- protection of the engine from breakdowns.
It is a mistake to think that the flame arrester ruins the engine. Everything happens differently. It becomes easier for the motor to work. Problems arise only if you refuse to cheat and incorrectly configure the ECU
Therefore, it is important to contact specialists
Now as for the shortcomings. The disadvantages or consequences will be:
- the level of harmful exhaust gas will increase;
- You will definitely have to flash the ECU if snag is not used;
- The service life of the muffler will be reduced.
As you can clearly see, there will be no serious consequences if you install it correctly and use high-quality components. At many points you can even win.
It's up to you to decide whether to install a flame arrester or not, or buy a new expensive catalyst.
Thanks everyone for your attention! Subscribe, leave comments and ask relevant questions!
Watch this video on YouTube
Buy a stronger in Moscow - come to the specialized
If you don’t know whether you need to install a stronger, then you can consult and get advice from the leading specialists of our Lyokha Exhaust car service center, located at the address: Moscow, Sokolnichesky Val 1, building 1, and undergo a free comprehensive detailed diagnostics of the exhaust system Your car. Make an appointment by phone: 8-903-129-20-00
Why put stronger - photo, video, Instagram
Also, you can read How much does a catalyst cost?
Instructions for making a flame arrester with your own hands
So let's move on to the manufacturing procedure, for this we need two iron pipes, one with a diameter equal to the diameter of the exhaust pipe of the muffler, the second with a larger diameter and steel mesh brushes for washing dishes. On a pipe equal to the muffler pipe, we cut out (using gas welding or a drill) holes with a diameter of 3 mm along the entire circle and length. Then we insert this pipe in the center into a pipe of larger diameter and weld it on one side.
Then we stretch the mesh brushes in a circle in the form of a ring, put them on a pipe of a smaller diameter and push them tightly with a metal strip until it rests on the closed end of a pipe of a larger diameter. We continue this procedure until the last mesh brush reaches the free end of a larger diameter pipe. It took me 26 mesh brushes to fill the empty space.
After this, we bend the ends of the pipe of larger diameter, pre-cut with a grinder, and scald them in a circle. This procedure helps to avoid unnecessary ringing noises from the flame arrester during engine operation. For beauty, you can paint it with silver spray paint. Now, with peace of mind, we cut out the catalyst and weld the manufactured flame arrester in its place.
PS A flame arrester instead of a catalyst can be installed on cars with Euro standard 2. On cars with Euro standard above 2, there is an oxygen sensor lambda probe after the catalyst and removing it can lead to an error in the engine control unit, which in turn will increase fuel consumption and worsen dynamics car.
Alternatively, you can make a flame arrester with your own hands on a VAZ
We take an old resonator, it is 2 years old and 45t.km. For the flame arrester body we needed an old muffler. We cut the muffler into metal.
The outer casing of the drain muffler is 2 layers of metal - 0.6 mm on the outside; from the inside - 0.8 mm., by the way, well preserved, slight corrosion between these two layers of metal. Next, look carefully at the photo, everything is clear.
inside…
inside…
The outer diameter of the cut pipe is 80 mm, thickness 1.5 mm, will be used for the flame arrester body.
We use the remaining piece for the end walls, then, due to the reluctance to cut the resonator pipe in half due to the further complexity of the joining, we did this: the flame arrester body was welded, cut lengthwise:
We put the halves on, scald them, then on the outside with a second layer we weld a 0.8 mm thick shirt onto the flanges of the end walls with a gap between the shirts of about 5 mm, the flanges are visible in the previous photos, the result:
On the end walls there is also an additional layer of metal 0.8 mm
then on the flame arrester body there is a noise-sound-heat insulator - a cover with flanges with asbestos fabric inside
We cook the lining from the bottom of the car
Similarly, on the bottom side there is a lining with asbestos for the resonator, we cook:
By the way, there is a decent stench when paraffins come out of asbestos... from heating. Now we clean with a cleaning disc and a metal brush
We degrease and paint with thermal paint (otherwise it will quickly corrode during welding, all welded seams should be thoroughly cleaned with a brush) thermal paint is stated to reach 538 degrees Celsius, we’ll see... By the way, one can was enough to paint three layers, there was one extra can left...
Now in a week I’ll install it somewhere, now I won’t have time, the plans are to remove the old (new) resonator, remove the thermal shields from the bottom, clean and cover the barrier with 2 layers of vibration-mastic, reassemble it in place, and by the way, reinforced suspension cushions of the resonator (weight -something has increased), I hope the metallic sound will go away, or it will become much less, in any case, I will approach the assessment of changes carefully and as objectively as possible, otherwise I somehow got into trouble with the SAAB... The original muffler is straight-through, and these Saab ones are for turbo- engines, the turbine itself dampens the sound quite well and the task there is to remove the exhaust as easily as possible. By the way, between the wall of the original resonator and the outer pipe 1.5 mm thick, I was afraid to shove stainless steel dish brushes, in case they start rubbing against vibrations and pressure and pour into the exhaust or even into the engine, write comments and we’ll discuss
Yes, I almost forgot - the stock silencer has stainless steel end walls and an exhaust tip, a mysterious Russian soul, if the 2 outer skins were made of stainless steel, it would be an indestructible silencer because Everything inside is practically new.
Source
Motorist's benefit
How to make it yourself
Some craftsmen are able to make a homemade flame arrester, and such services can often be found at car service stations. Sometimes a straight pipe is welded to the muffler, hoping that its shape alone will significantly increase the power qualities of the engine. Subsequently, this leads to failure of the resonator and the need to replace other components of the exhaust system.
For those who are interested in how to make a flame arrester with your own hands from improvised materials, we will provide brief instructions. It is necessary to take a pair of metal pipes, one of which is equal in diameter to the exhaust pipe of the muffler, and the second with a larger diameter. On the smaller one, 3 mm holes are drilled over the entire surface. Then it is inserted into a pipe of larger diameter and welded on one side.
After this, metal brushes are taken, which are used for washing and cleaning dishes. You may need from 2 to 3 dozen of them. They are stretched into the shape of rings, put on the smaller of the tubes and pushed all the way. Now you need to weld the ends of the larger pipe all around to avoid unnecessary ringing while the motor is running. All that remains is to paint the homemade stronger silver and weld it in its proper place.
Finally, I will say that such devices can be installed on cars with Euro2 standards. For those with a higher figure, a lambda probe is provided after the catalyst. This means that the control unit will generate an engine operation error, which can lead to a decrease in power and an increase in the “gluttony” of the machine.
This is where we will end today’s publication. I would be grateful for recommendations from your circle of friends. The number of cars on our roads is growing, and at the same time the number of regular blog readers is increasing. See you again, dear friends!
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What is a flame arrester and its features
So, before you buy a flame arrester and install this device, you need to know what advantages and disadvantages a flame arrester has instead of a catalyst, the pros and cons of such a solution, etc. Before starting work on replacing the catalyst, it is recommended to study this issue in advance.
A flame arrester is a device that reduces the temperature of exhaust gases and also eliminates resonance as they exit. In other words, the flame arrester effectively lowers the temperature of the exhaust gases and also acts as a primary resonator.
As for the types of flame arresters, there are two main ones:
- a manifold flame arrester, which is installed in the exhaust manifold block;
- separate flame arrester integrated into the direct line or downpipe;
Let us also add that such solutions differ in shape, and the dimensions of the flame arrester can also be different. This means that when selecting, it is necessary to separately take into account which vehicle this solution is needed for.
Let's move on. The general design of the flame arrester resembles a muffler resonator. The simplest option is a pipe with perforations (small holes for the passage of exhaust gases) inserted into a metal casing.
Also, a heat-resistant filler (usually basalt wool) is laid between the pipe and the body. This filler also further dampens the sound. The flame arrester has an inlet and an outlet, the ends are welded or rolled. As mentioned above, to replace a flame arrester you need to buy a suitable one (depending on the power of the internal combustion engine, diameter, length, etc.).
If we consider more technologically “advanced” solutions, the design of such flame arresters requires the presence of diffusers. These are peculiar funnels that actively reduce the flow rate of exhaust gases.
One way or another, when selecting, it is important to pay attention to the fact that the flame arrester body must have two layers, the metal of the housing must be resistant to corrosion and high temperatures, and the flame arrester must have a filler. This will get rid of noise and ringing while the internal combustion engine is operating in different modes.
It is optimal when the solution is made of aluminized steel
The best choice would be an expensive flame arrester made of high-alloy stainless steel, since the service life of such a product is very long compared to other analogues. This information will be useful both when selecting and when trying to make a flame arrester with your own hands.
It is optimal when the solution is made of aluminized steel. The best choice would be an expensive flame arrester made of high-alloy stainless steel, since the service life of such a product is very long compared to other analogues. This information will be useful both when selecting and when trying to make a flame arrester with your own hands.
You also need to know that, as a rule, installing a flame arrester in the catalyst, if it is free-standing and made of stainless steel, then you can count on a service life of up to 10 years. As for the flame arrester in the manifold, this solution lasts up to 5 years, as it experiences high heat.
In this case, the flame arrester is usually not destroyed, but the welds and exhaust pipes quickly fail. For example, by placing a stainless steel device into the main line and scalding it with argon, you can count on a long service life. If you use an aluminized flame arrester welded by conventional welding with an iron pipe, the service life will be much shorter. The resource is also influenced by the climate in the region, the characteristics of vehicle operation, etc.
In any case, when choosing a flame arrester, price should not play a major role. The main emphasis should be on the quality of the product, the materials it is made of and a number of other features. In fact, it is better to install a more expensive solution that is optimally suited to the car once, than to install cheap flame arresters made of unknown materials, which are difficult to install and will then quickly fail.
Removing the catalyst
To properly remove the catalyst from the car, you need to jack it up or put the car on a viewing hole. The process of removing the catalytic converter will not take more than thirty minutes and no special tools are needed for the work. The catalyst housing is located on the Samara behind the engine exhaust manifold. So:
- we find the mounts for the resonator, which is located behind the exhaust manifold or pants, as experts call it;
- unscrew the fastenings;
- remove the spring type washers;
Removing the catalyst
- unscrew the fastenings of the exhaust pipe (in this case, you need to remove the bolts along with the springs, holding the catalyst with the other hand from below):
- remove the catalyst.
Now the owner himself decides what to do. He can put a new catalyst on the car, or he can make a homemade flame arrester and install it.
Making a flame arrester
Homemade flame arrester VAZ
A flame arrester and a catalyst have a lot in common. But the flame arrester, compared to the catalyst, does not delay the flow of hot exhaust, thereby increasing the jerk and power of the engine. In addition, it has a direct-flow design, and it will cost less to install than a new catalytic converter. It is not possible to buy a ready-made flame arrester. Therefore, you will have to do it yourself. On a VAZ 2114, replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester will require a little skill and knowledge of certain secrets. Let's start with the pipes. We take two metal tubes of different sizes. The diameter of the first pipe should be the same as that of the exhaust system. The second one has much more. Replacing the VAZ 2114 catalyst begins with the following:
- drill 3-6 mm holes in the first pipe around the circumference and the entire length;
- we insert the pipe in the center into the second one, which has a much larger diameter;
- connect the welding machine;
- We weld one edge of the pipe connection;
- leave the other edge and cut it lightly with a grinder (this is done to leave room for bending);
- take metal sponges and stretch them;
Metal wool on the flame arrester
- they should be inserted alternately onto the edge of the pipe;
- taking a metal rod, push the washcloths as deep as possible (basically, it takes about 30 washcloths used by housewives in the kitchen);
- we bend the cut edge of the large pipe (this must be done so as not to remove the metal wool from the pipe);
- bends should be welded (scouring pads and tight welding will help to avoid the noise that the flame arrester will make while the car is operating);
- take good anti-corrosion paint (high-quality paint is sold in cans);
- we treat the flame arrester with it;
- cut out the old catalyst;
- insert the flame arrester there.
It is worth noting that even a homemade flame arrester meets all Euro 2 standards. In this article you can see how to replace the VAZ 2114 video catalyst and understand the main nuances of the work.
What is a lambda probe
Catalyst circuit and oxygen sensor
The replacement of the VAZ 2114 catalyst, as mentioned above, meets all the parameters. But if, nevertheless, the standard should be higher than Euro 2, you can use a lambda probe. This is a special sensor that, after removal, transmits an error to the control unit. But this is not a solution either, since this installation will affect engine performance or fuel consumption.
- A sensor is a special device that measures the oxygen content in exhaust gases.
- It then transmits this information to the electronic power system.
- The power system, in turn, begins to control the composition of the combustible mixture, that is, fuel, and maintains the optimal ratio of air and gasoline.
- If the sensor is faulty, it gives a signal to the control to maximize the enrichment of the working mixture.
The same thing happens not only when the sensor is faulty, but also when it is turned off. Measuring CO at the moment, the device shows up to 9%. Well, the deterioration in engine performance and an increase in fuel consumption by as much as 50% is unlikely to go unnoticed by the driver. It turns out that on cars such as the VAZ 2114, where a catalyst is installed or to replace the catalyst with a VAZ 2114, a special device operates in the exhaust system , which measures CO.
Replacing the neutralizer with a flame arrester
If you decide not to buy a new catalyst, then you have 3 ways to resolve the issue:
- purchase a ready-made flame arrester and install it on the car yourself;
- make it yourself, install and configure it;
- dismantle the unusable catalyst, and instead insert a piece of pipe with flanges.
Advice. If you do not have sufficient welding skills, then you should not undertake the manufacture of an element yourself. Practice shows that exhaust system parts always burn out at welding points, so the seams need to be applied professionally. In addition, you will have to cook stainless steel, and not ordinary metal. If you don’t know how, contact the experts for this service; the cost of the work will be five times less than a new neutralizer.
Drawing of a homemade flame arrester
To fully understand the replacement procedure, it is proposed to go all the way using the second method - make a flame arrester in a garage and put it on the car. The work is divided into several stages:
- Preparation of tools and materials.
- Removing an inoperative catalyst.
- Manufacturing a flame arrester based on it.
- Installation of a homemade device into the exhaust system and configuration. The latter implies solving the issue with the operation of the oxygen sensor.
The simplest method, which is often used by car enthusiasts, is to cut a piece of straight pipe into place of the converter. The option has the right to life, but leads to certain consequences described below.
Preparatory stage
The first step is to decide on the design of the future flame arrester in order to prepare the necessary materials. The most popular and simplest option is a product with active sound absorption, made for the sake of economy from a non-working catalyst. The point is that its body is made of stainless steel and is already equipped with mounting flanges; all that remains is to insert new internals there. To do this, you will need a stainless steel pipe with a wall thickness of 1.5-2 mm and a diameter equal to the size of the standard exhaust pipeline. To determine the length of the workpiece, measure the catalyst body and add 20 mm to the margin.
A piece of stainless pipe for a flame arrester
The following materials are suitable for sound-absorbing padding:
- basalt fiber with a density of 30-60 kg/m3;
- high temperature kaolin wool;
- bulk asbestos materials, cord;
- metal shavings (preferably stainless);
- steel mesh made of thin wire.
Packing made of metal shavings and kaolin wool
Important. On the Internet, would-be craftsmen often advise using fiberglass or metal dishwashing brushes as filling. The first one will melt in a week, since it is designed for a maximum temperature of 400 ° C, and the brushes will burn out after 2-3 months, because they are made of too thin wire. You should not follow such advice.
To carry out the work you will need the following set of tools:
- welding machine, electrodes and thick gloves;
- grinder equipped with a metal circle;
- electric drill;
- wrenches for dismantling the converter and unscrewing the lambda probe;
- hammer and core;
- pliers;
- fabric gloves.
Set of tools and equipment
An aerosol lubricant like WD-40 is very useful for unscrewing stuck threaded connections. If you are concerned about the appearance of the exhaust system after upgrading, purchase a special heat-resistant paint for application to metal.
Removing the catalyst
To dismantle the main-line type neutralizer, you need to place the car on an inspection ditch and secure it with the hand brake. The manifold catalyst unwinds from the engine compartment, but even here you may need a hole to disconnect the exhaust pipe from it. Disassembly is performed in this order:
- Treat the threaded fasteners of the neutralizer with WD-40 lubricant and wait 10-15 minutes.
- Loosen and unscrew the nuts holding the flanges of the elements together. If necessary, remove the bolts.
- If the oxygen sensor is built into the reservoir being removed, disconnect the wires from it.
- Remove the catalyst barrel by disconnecting it from the exhaust pipes. Be careful not to lose the graphite flange gaskets.
Removing the spent catalyst
Attention! Do not start dismantling the tank immediately after a trip, when the neutralizer body is too hot and can burn your hands. Wait 20-30 minutes for it to cool down.
For those car enthusiasts who purchased a ready-made flame arrester, disassembly is complete at this stage. All that remains is to insert a new part between the flanges, tighten them with bolts and proceed to the last stage - setting up the functionality of the lambda probe, which will be discussed below.
The factory flame arrester is simply installed in place of the catalyst
Making a homemade flame arrester
In order to further work with the removed catalyst and convert it into a flame arrester, it is advisable to secure the barrel in a vice or otherwise fix it in a horizontal position. Then follow this algorithm:
- Take a grinder and carefully cut the body of the tank into 2 parts. Try to cut metal along the factory seam or directly along it.
- Remove the resulting lid and knock out the contents of the neutralizer. Try on the prepared stainless steel pipe so that it fits clearly inside the barrel between the inlet and outlet pipes. If necessary, shorten to the required size with a grinder.
- Clamp the workpiece in a vice and mark the locations of future perforation with a core. Then take a drill with a diameter of 7-8 mm and make holes at low speeds of the drill. Remember that when drilling stainless steel, the tool must be constantly lubricated with machine oil, otherwise its working part will quickly become dull.
- Remove burrs from the perforated pipe, insert it into the barrel and weld it all around at the ends.
- Place non-flammable packing in the space between the old casing and the pipe. Dense basalt wool can be cut precisely according to the shape of the opening.
- Place the cut part of the tank back and weld it. The seam must be of high quality and airtight, otherwise the homemade element will quickly burn out.
Installation of the finished element into the housing from the neutralizer
Advice. There are no specific requirements for the number of holes in the stainless steel insert, but the more often you drill the pipe, the more efficiently sound will be absorbed. Considering that drilling stainless steel is not easy, choose the optimal spacing between holes of 5 cm.
Since the homemade flame arrester is no different in size from its predecessor, its installation does not contain pitfalls and is performed in the reverse order.
How to make a flame arrester from a catalyst - photo
The neutralizer removed from the machine The casing can also be cut by welding - semi-automatically Dismantling the cut part This is what the catalyst looks like with the casing cut off After opening, you need to pull out the ceramic insides The workpiece needs to be tried on in place Drilling holes in the pipe This is what the pipe looks like after drilling For stuffing, you can take a thin chain-link mesh After drilling the pipe is inserted into the body of the old element Welding the inner pipe Laying a metal mesh packing Welding the cut part Stronger in the catalyst body
How to fool a lambda probe
As mentioned above, after removing the converter, engine operation may be disrupted due to the readings of the lambda probe, which registers an increased content of unreacted oxygen remaining in the exhaust gases. However, if the catalyst is not working, such failures should begin much earlier. In any case, the problem needs to be solved, for which there are 3 ways:
- installation between the oxygen sensor of a metal spacer - “fake”;
- assembly of an emulator circuit that simulates the normal operation of the probe;
- reflashing the controller (chip tuning) to the Euro 2 standard.
Note. On older foreign-made cars, there is a lambda probe installed in the manifold or exhaust pipe in front of the catalyst barrel. In this case, nothing needs to be done, since the device does not take into account the change in the composition of gases after a homemade flame arrester.
Drawing of a spacer for an oxygen sensor
On cars of the lowest and middle price categories there are usually 2 oxygen sensors - before and after the converter. To deceive the system, you need to try the listed methods by manipulating the second lambda probe, which determines the oxygen content at the outlet to the atmosphere.
The easiest option is to unscrew the sensor and place a special metal spacer between it and the exhaust pipe. It is a bushing with a small hole for the flow of gases and a thread for screwing in the probe. A catalytic substance is placed inside, causing carbon and nitrogen monoxide to react, resulting in the same neutralizer in miniature. Some of the gases trapped in the “bleeder” are cleaned properly and the sensor signals to the controller that everything is in order.
Emulator circuit - simulator of the neutralizer operation
If installing the “fake” does not solve the problem, then you should use the second method - assemble a circuit for an electronic emulator (simulator of the normal operation of the probe). To do this you will need:
- non-polar capacitor with a capacity of 1 µF and a voltage of 30 V;
- resistor rated 1 MΩ;
- soldering iron, rosin and solder;
- wire cutters, sharp knife.
The circuit is assembled on the basis of a connector located in the cabin; there is no need to climb under the bottom of the car. You need to find the wires coming from the sensor, get to the block and solder the listed parts to the wires according to the diagram. After this, the “Check Engine” sign on the dashboard should go out and the engine will return to normal operation.
Advice. The most effective and reliable method is still chip tuning, since “cheats” do not always work. The best way to get rid of worries after installing a flame arrester is to contact car service specialists who, in half an hour, will reprogram the “brains” of your car and transfer it to the Euro 2 standard.
