Replacement of thresholds VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

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Removing the engine from a VAZ 2109, like any other car, is a labor-intensive, multi-stage process that should be approached with the full degree of responsibility.

Nine engine

Replacement of thresholds VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

By examining the condition of the thresholds and bottom of the VAZ 2110, you can easily determine the age of the car.
It should be recognized that the factory anti-corrosion treatment is not of very good quality and without proper care, after 7-10 years, through holes may appear on the thresholds as a result of corrosion. In this article, we will analyze the process of replacing VAZ 2110 thresholds, list the tools and materials for the work, and also talk about why thresholds rust and how to extend their life when there is no severe corrosion yet.

Why do the thresholds of the VAZ 2110 rust?

There are several reasons:

Irregular anti-corrosion treatment. On vehicles of the VAZ family, preventive treatments must be carried out before each winter season of vehicle operation.
The car was damaged in the threshold area and poorly repaired. In this case, corrosion develops very quickly and after 2-3 years through holes may appear.
Winter operation on roads where a lot of reagents are used. Salts settle on the thresholds of the car and after a short period of time “break through” the external anti-corrosion treatment, starting the corrosion process. If you operate a car in such conditions, you need to wash it once a month and preferably with warm water.
Damage to the external protection of the threshold and its untimely restoration.
Blockage of drainage elements in thresholds. Drains should be checked once a year throughout the entire body.

Threshold selection

The threshold consists of three parts:

External lining.
Amplifier inside.
Connector.

Thresholds can corrode in different ways, but generally, if there are through holes, you will need to purchase the entire three-piece threshold kit.

Threshold article number for the right side is 21100-5401060-00, for the left side 21100-5401061-00. Ask for connectors and amplifiers in stores; they are not available for order according to factory articles.

Tools and materials for work

Step-by-step replacement process

First, remove the doors, seats, bumper and front fenders. Also remove carpets, seat belts and sound insulation.

Protect your car windows. Sparks from grinders and welding can damage them. It is also advisable to cover the doorway with cardboard so that nothing gets into the interior.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
Place the vehicle on a pit or tipper.
Attach the new threshold and use a marker to mark the lines along which you will cut the old one.
Use a grinder to cut through the previously marked areas.
We core all the contact welding points along the edges at the top and bottom of the threshold. Next, we drill out the points, and then use a body knife to separate the metals from each other.
After you have separated the threshold, remove it and evaluate the condition of the bottom, amplifiers and connectors. If necessary, cut off rotten parts of amplifiers, connectors, or remove them entirely.
Cut out the required pieces from the repair parts and weld them in place.
Prime all welds and repair inserts with epoxy primer, having previously “filled” the abrasive with a scratch to create conditions for good adhesion of the materials.
Cut the butt pieces to size and drill holes for welding along the edges at the top and bottom of the threshold.
We clean all welds, grind the threshold with abrasive and apply epoxy primer.
We apply sealant to the non-facial welds, putty on the facial seams and paint. You can also apply an anti-corrosion agent, for example, Body Autoflex, before painting.
After all the work has been done, anticorrosive the hidden cavities with Movil or Pushsal.

The process of replacing thresholds for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 is clearly shown in this video:

Let's summarize

To replace VAZ 2110 thresholds with your own hands, you need to have many specific tools and skills. If you are not ready to learn bodywork and invest money in tools, trust the replacement of the threshold to professionals. The price of replacing a threshold with painting and anti-corrosion treatment is from 7,000 to 12,000 rubles.

Generator operation diagnostics

All diagnostic procedures can be carried out both on the removed device and directly in the car. Before starting work, be sure to remove the wires from the battery and generator.

To diagnose the rectifier unit, disconnect the regulator wire. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can use a battery and a test light. On the ohmmeter, the needle should point to “infinity”, and the control light should not light up. This indicates that the valves are working properly.

We carry out general diagnostics of the device . You need to check if the valves are broken. To do this, we attach the “plus” of the device to pin 30, and the “minus” to the body. If the device shows zero, this indicates a short circuit, which is a consequence of a breakdown of the valve.

Clarifying diagnostics. We check the resistance of the negative valves. To do this, we attach the “plus” to one of the mounting bolts, and connect the “minus” to the body of the device. A short circuit or breakdown is indicated by a reduced resistance.

To check the positive valves, you need to attach the “plus” of the ohmmeter to terminal “30”, and the “minus” to one of the mounting bolts. If the resistance is low, you can judge that the valve is broken.

In such cases, the easiest way is to replace the entire rectifier unit. Of course, you can replace individual diodes, but this is a labor-intensive process that includes re-coring. Only a specialist can handle this work.

Rotor winding diagnostics

First remove the brush holder (the procedure is described below).

We find a window on the device cover through which you need to check for a short circuit. We connect one terminal of the device to the ventilation impeller, and the second to the winding.

In a similar way, you need to check whether there is a break in the winding. To do this, we connect the ohmmeter leads to the contact rings.

How to properly replace the underbody of a car?

#1 Maler

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#2 Vladimir from Kamyshin

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#3 Peacemaker

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City: Irkutsk. Alexander, can you please

Can anyone tell me how to replace it correctly and reliably? I looked for smart welders in the area, but couldn’t find them. Seeing the work of some craftsmen, it became simply creepy (I don’t give a shit either). I would be grateful for your advice.

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#4 MIHA75

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City: N. Tagil

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#5 Maler

thank you. The car was bought by my sister and who knows. It turned out to be a bit broken. It’s a pity to sell. I changed a lot of things with my own hands (debut). The bottom is rotten. Apparently it was without treatment. I’ll be honest, I don’t know about the thresholds and the above. I don’t even know such words))) that’s why I’m looking for a person who will do it conscientiously. They suggested taking it to a service center to measure and level the geometry (visually the left gap on the trunk is a little larger. I think a stretcher and a properly tightened lid will correct the situation). In general, they don’t take on small rust, they offer to paint everything at once, with welding work the price becomes huge. Don’t laugh, but if I had the extra 100 thousand they ask for at the service center, they wouldn’t take the ’04 VAZ. I cooked it myself, without experience. I've been working recently. and not particularly neat. You still have years of training to reach your level. in general, I’m afraid myself. If I looked at how it’s done, maybe I could learn. In welding, I mastered what I can with the help of your forum and by trial and error. I would have practiced on some Cossack, but not))) inner voice yells - don't poke your nose in) sorry for the many letters)

What is the tire pressure

It is important to constantly monitor the tire pressure - this will avoid difficulties when operating the car.

It should be noted that for different tire sizes the value may differ slightly:

175/70 R13: for front wheels – 1.9 MPa, for rear wheels – 1.9 MPa;
175/65 R14: for front wheels – 2.0 MPa, for rear wheels – 2.0 MPa;
185/65 R14: for front wheels – 2.0 MPa, for rear wheels – 2.0 MPa.

Some drivers deliberately inflate the front wheels below the manufacturer's specified value. Main reasons:

less load is placed on the suspension;
minimal feedback to the steering wheel when hitting bumps or other road irregularities.

However, low blood pressure causes:

deterioration of management;
quick “grinding” of the tread along the edges of the tire;
increased gasoline consumption - by 10-15%;
uneven axle load.

Excessively high blood pressure also causes problems. For example, when heated to 60 degrees Celsius or higher, the wheel may simply burst.

Features of repair and overcooking of the VAZ 2112 underbody

The VAZ 2112 model is the heir to the 10th family. In turn, the first car after the collapse of a large country was designed on the VAZ-2108 platform. The popular hatchback dates back to the mid-80s, which indirectly indicates the shortcomings of the age-old design.

Design Features

The bottom of all modifications of the family was made of rolled steel. Additionally, to increase strength, stiffening ribs are made.

Important! Since the frameless design involves accepting the load from all body and transmission elements, it is the condition of the bottom that determines the functional readiness of the car.

Cars of different body types have different overall dimensions. At the same time, the wheelbase of all modifications is the same - 2,492 mm. The size and shape of the bottom on all machines also has no fundamental differences.

Family service experience indicates that most often - in 9 cases out of 10 - repairing the underbody of a VAZ 2112 begins with checking the condition of the body side members. Corrosion processes require their strengthening.

How to find rust on the bottom

A prerequisite for trouble-free operation of the 12th family hatchback is periodic inspection of the car for corrosion from below. Even cars from recent years of production need additional processing.

It is better to carry out a comprehensive inspection of the bottom. Among the main detected defects are:

peeling of the anti-corrosion composition;
the appearance of local foci of corrosion (jack attachment points, thresholds);
presence of fires on the interior side.

Installing a new part

After preparing the surface, the repair process involves replacing the threshold, which begins with the amplifier:

Weld the connector of the new part to the subframe amplifier with a margin of a few millimeters, and connect it in front with the old part of the part that was left. Start working from the middle of the part, moving towards the edges. After this, clean the welding points;
align the bottom edge of the amplifier with the connector;
fit to the car threshold. Then make the final adjustment, leaving small gaps and securing the place with clamps;
clear the welding area of soil. Drill holes from the bottom of the panel, and then hang the outer part of the threshold on the car, securing it with self-tapping screws;
weld the lower part of the part through the holes made to the panel from the outside, and a connector to the bottom of the body;
weld metal on top of the threshold and, if required, patches on the side of the car bottom;
clean the formed seams, apply primer, putty and paint to them. Check them for leaks.

How much does it cost on average to digest the bottom of a VAZ-2112?

VAZ-2112 is a Russian-made five-door hatchback. The car is reliable, of high quality, but, like any vehicle, it breaks down over time. Typically, a motorist is faced with wear and tear on the underbody. The service for overcooking the bottom of a VAZ-2112 in Russia costs from 8,500 to 29,000 rubles .

What is this?

Re-welding the bottom means updating the floor of the car using welding equipment and a number of tools. The bottom of the car is the most vulnerable place. It takes on mechanical damage, the negative effects of active chemicals, and dirt. Most often you have to deal with the corrosion process.

Overcooking the bottom of a VAZ-2112 may be required in the following cases:

The bottom is covered with rust.
There are holes.
There are big cracks.
The bottom has become thinner.

In these cases, auto technicians recommend overcooking. This work is labor-intensive and expensive. To repair a car, you need to do a number of these steps:

Find a service station that restores VAZ-2112 cars.
Contact the administrator and ask him about the terms of cooperation and approximate prices for services.
Agree on a time to come to the master or call a specialist.
Provide your vehicle to the mechanic.
After a professional inspection, negotiate the exact cost of the work and the time frame for its completion.
Give consent for repairs.
Accept the job.
Pay the specialist the previously agreed amount of money.
Receive a warranty card for the work done.

The wizard performs a number of such actions:

Inspects the bottom of the car.
Makes a decision about the need to digest it.
Cuts out the damaged part.
A patch is welded to this place.
Treats the area with an anti-corrosion compound, sealant and mastic to increase resistance to external negative influences.
Provides the restored car to its owner.

For work, the specialist uses a semi-automatic welding machine, gas welding.

What does the price depend on?

In Russian car repair shops, the price for overcooking the bottom of a VAZ-2112 car varies. When compiling a price list, the company takes into account the following points:

Dimensions of the damaged part of the bottom.
Maintainability.
Difficulty of work.
Urgency of the order.
Place of work.
Prestige of the auto service center.
Pricing policy.

Types of service

Overcooking the bottom of a VAZ-2112 car can be:

Using semi-automatic welding equipment:
Using gas welding.

Depending on the location of the repair, the service is:

In the garage of a private master.
On the territory of the car service center.
At the location of the client's car.

Depending on the time that the client allocates for work, overcooking occurs:

Urgent.
Not urgent.

According to the performer, overcooking is classified into:

Professional.
Independent.

Possible causes of malfunctions

There are several common reasons that require the driver to look under the hood of the “iron horse”:

partial or complete combustion of the VAZ 2107 winding;
cases of interturn short circuit;
physical wear of parts;
external physical influence;
mechanical damage.

Inexperienced drivers of the VAZ 2108 or earlier modifications need to remember one nuance. When choosing lighting fixtures, you need to take into account their power. For example, if you decide to install fog lights, the power of which is 40-50 W each, you should look at the technical description of the VAZ 2106 or 07. Their installation is allowed only if the vehicle’s generator produces more than 55 A of current.

Failure to comply with this rule leads to dire consequences. The increased load of the VAZ generator leads to its rapid wear. The power of the unit gradually decreases, which is mistakenly perceived as a minor breakdown. That is why the total power of all voltage consumers should not exceed the maximum current level of VAZ 2107, 08 or 06.

The problem described above leads to another one - improper charging. The 2107 passenger car is designed in such a way that the generator is charged while driving. All electricity consumers are selected taking into account the power of the device. If individual elements are replaced without taking into account their power, the VAZ generator receives less energy than necessary.

Forced “starvation” leads to accelerated wear and failure. A great danger is posed by gadgets that significantly exceed the maximum level of current generated by the VAZ 2108. In this case, the “iron horse” risks stopping along the way. It will not be possible to revive a VAZ generator on site or even within the walls of a service station.

Underbody repair of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

The history of car repairs began precisely because of the floor and everything that should be structurally welded to it. All the “surprises” were hidden under the internal plastic linings and carpet, visually there were no problems visible if not for one “but”! It was summer outside, the temperature was over 30, there was almost no rain for a month, and the places under the rugs at the doorstep were still damp. I took off the plastic, peeled back the carpet, and there the standard thermal insulation was wet and already beginning to deteriorate, and everything “bloomed” under it! It turned out that there were still small holes on the bottom, not noticeable from below under the factory sealant and anti-gravel, and it was through them that the insulation picked up moisture. In addition, some stupid patches that were falling off, holes in the side members and internal sills were discovered. My first thoughts after seeing it were “I’m selling everything!” Then I recovered from the shock and decided that maybe it could be fixed. Since it all worked out in one go, remake the car to suit you.

The scene is a garage. We cut, saw, disassemble.

Survey of the scale of the disaster.

Identification of dead places

We cleaned the floor of standard vibration insulation and inspected weak points. It was decided not to use any repair inserts, but to replace it entirely. The next day, go shopping to look for factory flooring.

We bought it and cut it into three parts so that it would fit into my dad’s car)

Third part, central piece. This part of the body remains original.

We cut and shred, having previously marked the future edge on which the new floor will be applied.

A car without a bottom...

They cut off the floor and part of the threshold on the left.

The lower edge of the spar was badly damaged by corrosion (there had previously been a patch on it to cover the hole), and there was nothing left to weld the floor. The floor spar extension and the spar connector are also replacement parts. Assembled spars were purchased, which were later cut in half. Next is the important stage of adjusting the seam location and fitting it on the car. The old spar was cut down to intact, undamaged metal.

We clean the factory soil.

How far did you manage to remove this blackness?

The “spar assembly” is prepared. The adjacent edge is adjusted in place using a grinder. First roughly, with a cutting wheel, then more precisely with a cleaning wheel. To increase the area of the seam, the cut was made not in a straight line, but at an angle. Also, just in case, two additional pads were welded for strength.

Spar cutting line

This node is in those documentation.

Catalog numbers and exact names of spare parts (used 1,7,8).

Everything is in its place

Before installing the floor, the old part of the spar was sanded and primed as much as possible.

Test fitting of the floor.

Everything matched up as it should. We prime.

Completely ready for welding, holes for the spar are made in advance.

Some of the edges overlap (about 10-20mm) by ). Additionally, 2 pieces of “front floor spar” and 2 pieces of “floor reinforcement for the front seats” are required.

Front floor spar

floor reinforcement for front seats

Well, here’s the finished version) The burnt out spots were sanded with reserve and painted over with phosphating and acrylic finishing primer.

The floor is in its rightful place

The very last stage is sealing the welds. The sealant was gray CARSYSTEM, two 310 ml tubes were used.

It takes about a day for the sealant to dry completely.

This stage has come to its logical conclusion, the body is intact and it makes me happy!

I post technical information that was used during the body work process. Maybe it will be useful to someone.

Publisher: Volga Association for the Production of Passenger Cars (AvtoVAZ) ETC "AvtoVAZ Maintenance" Title: VAZ-2110 car and its modifications. Technology of maintenance and repair. (Volume 6) There are six of them in total: Volume 1 - “VAZ cars: technology of maintenance and repair”; Volume 2 - “VAZ cars: technology for repairing bodies and body parts”; Volume 3 - “VAZ-2108, 2109 cars and their modifications: technology of maintenance and repair”; Volume 4 - “VAZ-1111 car: technology of maintenance and repair”; Volume 5 - “VAZ-2121, 21213 cars: technology of maintenance and repair”; Volume 6 - “VAZ-2110 car and its modifications: technology of maintenance and repair.”

What was useful to me in the repair:

Removing and installing the body side panel.

B — body side right/left; Br — front fender mudguard right/left; UP — right/left front side pillar amplifier assembly; R - wind window frame; C — wind window pillar, inner right/left; UV - wind strut amplifier right/left; PC - roof panel; Nbv — upper right/left sidewall trim; U - roof reinforcement assembly; Pun — corner rear panel, outer right/left; Sp — right/left floor threshold connector; L — front spar assembly right/left; PP — front floor panel; Nbn — lower middle sidewall trim right/left, Кз — rear right/left fender; Ps - middle floor panel; LS - middle right/left floor spar.

Body side assembly with reinforcements and trim

B — body side right/left; UP — right/left front side pillar amplifier assembly; UV - wind strut amplifier right/left; UB — sidewall reinforcement for mounting the trunk assembly; Nbn — lower middle right/left sidewall trim assembly.

View of the front floor from below

Front floor view from above

Detaching and installing the middle floor assembly

Ps - middle floor panel; A — rear wheel arch right/left; LS - middle right/left floor spar: Psr - middle floor cross member; Lz — rear right/left floor spar; N — rear floor extension right/left; PP — front floor panel; Pps - front cross member of the middle floor; Sp — right/left floor threshold connector; B — body side right/left.

Without removing the gearbox

In short, it is quite possible to remove the engine from your “nine” without removing the gearbox. To do this you will have to follow these steps:

Place bricks or other reliable supports under the gearbox;
Unscrew the left crab, move the stretcher aside;
Remove the generator, crankshaft pulley, and camshaft gear from the engine;
The pump, tensioner pin, distributor, and exhaust pipe are also dismantled;
If a major overhaul is planned, then you can also remove the head;
Then the engine mount is removed;
The motor is moved from the box and lowered to the floor. To remove the engine, the front part is raised higher using a jack and the volume is removed;
Or you can pull it out through the top using a winch.

In practice, all experts recommend dismantling the engine along with the gearbox. Especially if you plan to replace the engine or increase the power of the standard engine. In this situation, the box itself is often changed so that it can clearly interact with the new motor.

Gearbox from nine

Features of repair and overcooking of the VAZ 2112 underbody

Design Features

The bottom of all modifications of the family was made of rolled steel. Additionally, to increase strength, stiffening ribs are made.

Important! Since the frameless design involves accepting the load from all body and transmission elements, it is the condition of the bottom that determines the functional readiness of the car.

How to find rust on the bottom

It is better to carry out a comprehensive inspection of the bottom. Among the main detected defects are:

peeling of the anti-corrosion composition;
the appearance of local foci of corrosion (jack attachment points, thresholds);
presence of fires on the interior side.

You should not delay diagnostics, since if the iron is damaged by 70% of its thickness, restorative repairs are difficult to carry out. It is more convenient to do diagnostics when lifting the car on a lift or driving into an inspection hole. It would be a good idea to look under the upholstery and from the interior.

Causes of rust and preventive measures

Among the reasons for the acceleration of corrosion processes on the bottom of the model with index 2112 are:

storing the car outside during temperature changes and high humidity;
operating a vehicle in difficult road conditions;
water getting under the interior trim.

Almost any car over 7 years old is monitored for corrosion.

Preparatory work before restoration

Preparatory actions involve several sequential operations:

dismantling seats and interior trim;
removal of moldings (if installed);
dismantling of air ducts;
removal of noise and emissions insulation materials;
Removing wiring elements.

In the case of the proposed replacement of the bottom of the VAZ 2112, it will be necessary to remove the central tunnel with the dashboard. This will make it easier to access the engine compartment.

The procedure for carrying out repair work

All work is conventionally divided into 3 stages: preparation of the bottom, replacement of the entire element or re-welding of individual parts, reassembly of the dismantled parts.

Tools and materials for work

Work is carried out after changing into dry clothes suitable for welding work. Before starting, prepare tools (grinder, welding machine, drill) and consumables. You will need new soundproofing sheets, as well as:

mastic;
primer;
sandpaper;
protective enamel.

After disassembly, it will become clear whether the repair will include additional metal parts, or whether the entire bottom of the VAZ 2112 will need to be welded.

Safety precautions

Since the work involves welding, fire safety of the work must be ensured. To carry out proper repairs, you should turn off the power to the car and drain all the fuel from the tank. For convenience, the doors in the cabin are dismantled, having previously de-energized the windows. In order to preserve the geometry of the body, after removing the doors, the openings are strengthened by installing spacer elements.

Note! Make sure the vehicle is securely fastened.

Replacement of structural parts

When performing work, take into account that the components of the bottom are:

support platform;
composite panels;
threshold extensions;
amplifiers of side members and cross members;
connectors.

When carrying out troubleshooting, it becomes clear whether it is possible to repair a particular body element or whether the entire body will need to be replaced. In the case of fragmentary repairs, it is necessary to drill holes in the places where the part is attached using spot welding. The body element itself will need to be cut out with a grinder.

To digest a separate area, the patch is prepared in advance. Further work is carried out in the following sequence:

the area is polished, the iron element is welded;
welds are processed;
the element is primed, sanded, and coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

Partial replacement is possible only in 1 case out of 10. If the option of individual elements is not suitable, a complete replacement of the bottom is carried out.

Replacing the entire bottom

Before starting work, it will be necessary to dismantle the elements of the exhaust gas exhaust system. From the standpoint of the sequence of operations performed, a complete replacement does not differ from a partial one.

Welding work when repairing the bottom

Readiness for welding is checked according to the following algorithm:

grounding the device;
complete serviceability;
effective room ventilation.

First, the spot welding spots are drilled out and the bottom is cut out along the contour. A new element is inserted into the prepared area and welded around the perimeter in increments of 20-30 mm. The seams are processed. The best results will be achieved when using joint sealant.

Required Tools

First you need to select a new canvas. Craftsmen recommend choosing double glass with a polymer layer or single-layer tempered stalinite. Required equipment and related materials:

nylon cord - about 5 meters;
rubber hammer;
slotted screwdriver;
sealant;
anti-corrosion agent and primer.

Preparation involves choosing a comfortable room for work; you also need to select equipment, purchase new glass and dismantle the old fragment.

You can put the old seal on the glass or purchase a new element to make the job easier.

Preparation

The car must be properly prepared for repairs. Be sure to disconnect the battery. Remove the locker from the repair side. Remove the right wing. For greater convenience, the doors can be removed. But this is optional. Seats, rugs, and plastic linings are removed. If there is sound insulation, then it is also better to remove it.

The old threshold is cut out. Pay attention to the condition of the iron around the threshold. Cut all rotten pieces down to “healthy” metal. The edges of the remaining metal are cleaned with a wire brush to pure iron. At the same time, be sure to cover the windows in the car with cardboard. Scale can seriously damage them.