Replacing the pump VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 8 valves with your own hands -

Car owners of the front-wheel drive 2110-12 family must monitor the condition of the pump that circulates the coolant. More often it is called a pump. This unit is in the category of critical engine systems. A failed pump can negatively affect the performance of the motor and lead to serious consequences. Despite the complexity and importance of this unit, replacing a VAZ 2110 8 valve pump is not a difficult task. If you have a garage and plumbing tools, most car owners will be able to make repairs themselves.

The entire operation to replace the water pump on a VAZ 2110 car will take no more than 2 hours. Along with the main task, the timing drive will be subject to revision, which is very important for the further operation of the car.

Design Features

Despite its simple design, the pump of any car, including the VAZ 2110, is a fairly loaded element, all due to the same drive, so it can easily fail. The culprit is usually the pump bearing. Replacing a VAZ 2110 pump is not the easiest process, but you can do it yourself, all you need is the necessary tools and our instructions.

Essentially, the pump consists of:

shaft;
housings;
bearing;
oil seals;
gear and impeller.

Everything is simple - a gear is mounted on the shaft on one side, and an impeller on the other. Between them on the shaft there are a bearing and seals, which are located inside the housing.

This housing attaches the pump to the cylinder block. In this case, the impeller is located inside the cooling jacket, and the gear is outside it. The timing drive causes the gear to rotate, and along with it the impeller, since they are mounted on the same shaft.

In this case, the gear does not contact the drive with its entire working surface, but only half.

And since the timing belt must be constantly tensioned, the pump bearing constantly experiences a one-sided load, which ultimately leads to its failure.

This, in general, is the main reason for the breakdown of the water pump in the VAZ-2110 and not only.

Pump location

On the VAZ 2110/11/12 the water pump is located on the cylinder block on the right side. This is due to the design features of the gas distribution mechanism, since the impeller begins to rotate only after the engine and timing belt are started. That is, the design of the gas distribution mechanism initially involves the use of a pump.

The water pump is part of the timing mechanism and is installed on the right side of the cylinder block

Cavitation, bearing damage

When considering the symptoms of a motor pump failure, you should pay attention to such a negative phenomenon as cavitation. This is the process of formation of air bubbles in antifreeze. They damage the internal surfaces and individual parts of the pump. As a result, scratches remain on them. Then they rust.

Air bubbles appear in the pump inlet. When the pressure in the system increases, they are destroyed. This process causes significant system damage and can cause engine failure. Therefore, it is better not to save money and buy a new pump. It will be much more reliable than a refurbished pump.

It is very important to install it correctly in its original place. Particular attention is paid to seals and proper tightening of fasteners. In some cases, a special sealant is used for joints. Eliminates leakage. However, it is not always possible to use the presented material. This will prevent you from later loosening the engine mounts to secure the timing belt on some car models.

If you know the signs of a bad pump, you can replace it on time. First you need to remove the cover from the timing belt. If necessary, the tensioner will need to be loosened and removed. Then reduce the mounting force on the generator. Its belts and timing belt have been removed. The hose from the pump can be disconnected. Then the antifreeze is drained. After this, you can remove the protective cover and pump.

After installing the new pump in place, align the alignment marks. This is necessary because the crankshaft can move relative to the camshaft.

Why do you need a pump in a car?

If we talk about the operation of a car engine, then we immediately touch upon the topic of its cooling. Indeed, without high-quality cooling, the engine will not be able to work for a long time and will definitely “boil”. Thanks to the circulation of coolant, it becomes possible to operate the engine at any time of the year under any external conditions.

The power component on the VAZ of the tenth family has a rather complex structure. During the working cycle, the pistons rub strongly against each other, which invariably leads to strong heating of the surfaces. The only way to prevent engine overheating is to constantly maintain the desired temperature in the friction zone through the circulation of coolant and. It is for this purpose that the VAZ design includes a cooling system.

The design and operating features of the VAZ 2110 engine cooling system are described in detail in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/dvigatel/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-dvigatelya.html

Coolant (antifreeze or antifreeze) is poured by the driver into the expansion tank of the car. From it, the liquid is transferred through pipes to the water pump, and from there it goes to the radiator and cylinder block. The water pump (or pump) is designed to pump antifreeze through the system while the engine is running. That is, the pump starts together with the engine and turns off after the driver turns off the car. Without a pump, the entire cooling system can be considered ineffective, since only the pump can create rapid circulation of liquid throughout all parts of the system.

The pump is designed to create the necessary pressure in the cooling system to move the liquid.

The device in a metal case ensures continuous circulation of antifreeze through the cooling system

Purpose and functions of the water pump

The pump is a centrifugal type pump that provides forced circulation of antifreeze through the engine cooling circuit. Due to this, excess heat is removed from the engine. Structurally, the pump is quite simple. An impeller is located in a cast iron or aluminum casing, which is driven through a shaft. The tightness of the structure is ensured by the oil seal and gasket between the pump housing and the cylinder block.

Coolant is supplied through the central channel. When it hits the impeller, due to the centrifugal force, the coolant is thrown towards the walls of the housing. Through the distribution channel, the liquid flows to the pipes and then into the engine cooling jacket. When the temperature reaches a certain value, the thermostat opens, which leads to cooling of the liquid in the radiator. The coolant then returns to the centrifugal pump. This ensures the circulation of antifreeze.

The pump is the main element of the engine cooling system

Resource

The pump does not seem to be a consumable, but still it is also subject to periodic replacement. But unlike consumables, it does not have a specific resource.

One pump can run 100 thousand km, but the other won’t reach 20 thousand km. It all depends on the quality of manufacture of the part itself, as well as on the correctness and frequency of maintenance, namely, checking and adjusting the tension of the timing belt.

An overtightened belt can shorten the life of the pump, significantly.

conclusions

Replacing a water pump is a fairly simple process that any motorist can do. Particular attention must be paid to choosing a product and checking its authenticity. There have been numerous cases when the installed pump on a VAZ 2112 had a service life of 1-2 thousand km, and then failed, which not only upset the owner, but also led to a repeat purchase.

Sources used:

https://mylada.net/remont/zamena-pompy-na-8-klapannoj-vaz-2110-2.html
https://vaz-2110.ru/dvigatel/zamena-pompy-vaz-2110-8-klapanov.html
https://carfrance.ru/zamena-pompi-vaz-2110-artikuly/
https://original-detal.ru/catalog/dvigatel/sistema_okhlazhdeniya/nasos_vodyanoy_pompa/vaz_2110_12_16kl_2/
https://carfrance.ru/zamena-pompy-na-vaz-2112-svoimi-rukami-na-16-klapannom-dvigatele-vybor-ceny-process-video/

What will result from untimely replacement of the VAZ 2110 pump?

But if you do not replace the VAZ-2110 pump (8-valve injector) in a timely manner, you can get the following consequences:

Broken or damaged timing belt. More serious repairs will have to be carried out, since very often the integrity of the valves or even the cylinder head is compromised. Sometimes even the pistons become unusable.
The engine heats up excessively, the integrity of the rubber elements - pipes, gaskets - is damaged, the cylinder head gasket, valve cover, and piston group components are destroyed.

The price for replacing a VAZ 2110 pump in workshops is about 1500-2000 rubles. The more complex the repair, the more expensive it is. If the timing roller and belt need to be replaced, the cost increases.

It is worth noting that you can replace the pump on the “ten” yourself, this will not cause any difficulties.

Signs of a pump malfunction

Thanks to the rotation of the pump driven by the timing belt, the impeller circulates a special fluid (antifreeze, antifreeze) through the small and large circuits of the cooling system. A damaged pump can cause the engine to overheat or cause the timing belt to break. To avoid an emergency on the road, you should do preventive repairs on time. On a VAZ 2110 with an 8-valve engine, the omen of replacing the pump can be recognized by the symptoms described below.

How to check the pump on a VAZ 2110/2112

The driver, if there is a suspicion of a malfunction of the water pump, can check this unit without going to a car repair shop. In this case, there is no need to remove the pump from the car; the entire verification procedure is completed within 10 minutes:

Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (on a VAZ of the tenth family - 91 degrees).
Put a glove on your right hand.
Pinch the fluid supply pipe that comes from the radiator with your hand. If the pump is working normally, you will immediately be able to feel the pressure of the antifreeze inside the pipe. If, when pressed, the hose easily compresses, then the circulation of coolant is severely inhibited, which indicates a breakdown

To identify pump malfunctions, it is enough to squeeze the antifreeze supply pipe - if the hose resists compression, then the pressure in the system is stable

When performing the check, you must be careful, since the antifreeze gets very hot during engine operation: you can get burned on the hot pipes and surfaces of the engine.

Symptoms of malfunction and quick replacement of the VAZ 2110 pump

There are several signs of a pump breakdown, and they can be obvious, or the fault can only be determined after diagnosis.

Signals that the water pump has become unusable are:

Increased noise when the engine is running from the timing belt side, a squeak is possible;
A constant and significant decrease in the coolant level in the expansion tank and traces of coolant leaks from the crankshaft drive pulley;
Strong pump play.

As can be seen from the list, all these signs are caused by severe wear of the bearing and seals.

Some argue that a pump malfunction leads to an increase in temperature during operation of the power plant.

But this happens in very rare cases when, due to corrosion, the impeller blades are almost completely destroyed. Because of this, the pump simply physically cannot impart movement to the liquid.

But such a malfunction is an isolated case; in general, the pump cannot affect the temperature regime due to the fact that it is constantly in motion.

But ignoring the problem with the pump’s operation will also not lead to anything good.

In the best case, the bearing and seals will wear out so much that they will not prevent the coolant from flowing out at all.

And since there is a drainage hole in the pump body, the antifreeze will drain through it quickly, and this can actually lead to overheating of the engine.

It is much worse if the bearing collapses due to severe wear and leads to jamming of the pump and flooding. Replacing the VAZ 2110 pump

The result of this is a belt rupture and possible collision of the valves with the pistons. And this is already a major expensive repair of the power plant.

Check the pump every time the drive belt is replaced. Well, if any of the signs of malfunction appear, you should immediately check the condition of the pump and, if necessary, replace it.

Let us note here that increased hum and squeaking can be caused not only by the pump, but also by the tension roller, so the pump is not necessarily the cause of the noise.

But if a faulty element is identified, it is worth checking both of these details. Fortunately, they are located nearby, so it is not difficult to determine whether the pump or the roller caused the increased noise.

Replace or repair?

External noises. A partially faulty cooling system water pump makes an “unhealthy” noise or “howl” during operation. This may be due to significant wear on the bearings and/or the pump impeller contacting the pump body as it rotates. This is also due to partial damage to the bearing.

Pump pulley play. This is due to damage or natural wear to the rotating bearing. In this case, diagnostics can be carried out quite simply, just move the pump shaft from side to side with your fingers. If there is play, it will be felt well to the touch. Please note that the appearance of play causes leakage of the pump seal and leakage of coolant.

The occurrence of leaks. Thus, antifreeze can leak from the gasket, as well as from other places such as the housing and impeller. Including: In this case, antifreeze may be visible on the pump housing, pump mount, some elements of the space under the pump (depending on the design of a particular car), or simply on the ground under the car.

Antifreeze smell appears. In particular, this can be felt not only in the space under the hood (when the hood is opened), but also in the cabin, since its fumes will enter the cabin through the ventilation system. Antifreeze has a sweetish smell, sometimes with a taste of alcohol.

Choosing a pump for your car

So, you have decided to replace the pump. Now you need to go to the auto store and buy the required element. However, sellers offer a huge assortment of different water pumps for the VAZ 2110/2112 - which pump to choose so as not to go wrong with the price and quality?

The price of a pump for an 8-valve VAZ 2110/2112 engine is from 800 rubles, for a 16-valve engine - from 1 thousand rubles. However, regardless of the cost and brightness of the packaging, when purchasing, you must pay attention to the following details:

manufacturer (take products only from companies that you know well);
the pump has its own catalog number (for example, the standard VAZ pump in all catalogs in car stores and on Internet sites is numbered 21081307010);
the pump is sold in clean, uncreased packaging;
The kit includes a gasket;
A factory quality guarantee is provided with the pump.

Car enthusiasts prefer a pump produced by TZA. A water pump from a domestic manufacturer is easy to install, lasts a long time and is inexpensive. However, there is a risk of purchasing a defective product.

The Russian-made product is characterized by affordable cost and high quality work

Step by step operating procedure. Replacing the VAZ 2110 pump

The water pump is replaced in an inspection pit or overpass. A regular jack will do, but you should make sure in advance that the body is lifted from the front right side and securely secured with additional stops.

The procedure for replacing the pump is identical for VAZ 2110/2112 with engines with 8 and 16 valves.

Replacing the pump involves removing the timing belt and tension pulley

After the initial preparation, you can begin the main work:

Open the hood and remove the wire from the negative terminal on the battery.
Unscrew the cap from the expansion tank.
Get down under the car and place a container under the cylinder block.
Unscrew the antifreeze drain plug and pour it into a container.
After draining, install the plug back.
Next, remove the front right wheel from the VAZ.
The timing block will open under it - use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the three casing bolts.
Remove the casing from the machine.
After this, fix the crankshaft at the highest point of the first cylinder: engage the gear and turn the bolt that secures the pulley with a 19mm wrench. You need to turn it until the mark on the shaft gear matches the mark on the rear casing of the gas distribution mechanism.
It is better to insert a large screwdriver or a long bolt between the crankshaft teeth to ensure it is static.
Next, use a 17 key to loosen the tensioner roller, which will entail loosening the timing belt.
First remove the belt, then the roller itself.
Remove the five bolts that secure the bottom of the pump to the timing belt.
Then unscrew the three bolts securing the top of the pump.
It is easy to pry the pump housing with a screwdriver and pull it out of the socket.
It is recommended to immediately clean the planting site from dust and old antifreeze. The remains of the old gasket must be removed.
It is recommended to lubricate the new pump gasket with sealant on both sides and carefully place it in the landing zone.
Install a new pump onto the gasket.
Assembly work is carried out in reverse order.

Is it necessary to drain all the antifreeze from the system when replacing the VAZ 2110 pump?

Drivers, when independently changing the pump on a VAZ, often wonder about draining antifreeze from the system. How much is it necessary to drain the coolant at all and if drained, how many liters?

There are specific answers to these questions:

It is necessary to drain the antifreeze when performing any work on the elements of the cooling system. Draining the antifreeze ensures that pressure in the system is relieved and reduces the risk of injury. In addition, when dismantling and installing the pump, antifreeze will constantly leak from the landing zone, which will create a lot of inconvenience and ultimately lead to incorrect replacement.
Regarding the question of how much antifreeze needs to be drained, there are two solutions. The first is based on caring for the car. As a rule, it is customary to change the coolant along with the pump, so it is better to drain the antifreeze from the system completely. The second option is suitable for those drivers who have only recently replaced antifreeze. In this case, you can drain only part of the liquid from the system (about 2-3 liters) in order to relieve the residual pressure in the pipes.

Accordingly, after replacing the pump, you need to fill in the same amount of coolant that was drained before dismantling.

Features of replacement on a 16-valve engine

The difference when replacing a VAZ 2110 pump on a 16-valve engine comes down only to the fact that this engine has two camshafts, and therefore two drive gears.

Therefore, when disassembling, it is necessary to align the marks on both gears.

And then, during the disassembly process, make sure that the camshafts do not move and their position is not disturbed.

After installing a new pump and belt and then tensioning it, be sure to check that the marks match. That is, the crankshaft is rotated several times, then the marks are set on the camshafts and their alignment on the flywheel is checked.

This is the whole difference between the replacement process on 8- and 16-valve VAZ-2110 engines.

In general, the described process for replacing the water pump is suitable for almost all cars whose engine is equipped with a timing belt drive.

Of course, there will be a difference at some points in the disassembly, but it is not significant.

Therefore, the described sequence of action is almost universal, especially for VAZ cars, starting with model 2108.

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2110/2112 pump repair or VAZ 2110 pump replacement

The driver does not always have the opportunity to replace a faulty pump. In some cases, it is possible to repair the device by restoring the operating functions of the pump. If the pump has not yet exhausted its service life (50 thousand kilometers), then you can repair it. However, the pump cannot be repaired without using a special repair kit. This is a set of rubber gaskets and parts that most often fail and need to be replaced.

Repair kits for pumps may vary in composition, depending on which spare parts need to be replaced

In addition, you will have to thoroughly prepare for repairs: the place for disassembling and repairing the pump must be clean and level.

Disassembling the pump

The pump is disassembled in the following sequence:

The removed pump is wiped with a dry cloth.
Using a special puller, the pulley is removed.
The bearings are knocked off the shaft with a hammer.
The shaft is removed from the pump housing.
The impeller is removed.
The oil seal or what is left of it is removed.
The insides are thoroughly washed and cleaned.

If the pump is leaking, the seal must be replaced. The cause of a whistle at high speeds is usually a strong shaft wear.

Features of replacing the pipe on the pump and subsequent replacement of the VAZ 2110 pump

Due to the fact that the pressure is unstable, the hoses in the cooling system often become deformed for the flow or removal of fluid. If the pipe is swollen or cracks appear on it, then the rubber may “shoot out”.

To change the pipes on the pump, you should:

loosen the clamp clamp;
remove clamps and pipes;
remove fasteners;

remove the engine compartment pipe;
remove the pipes.

On most modern cars, pump No. 2 is installed in the factory workshops, so the engine is easily cooled under increased loads. On the X generation VAZ, an additional unit is installed in order to optimize the operation of the stove in winter.

Replacing the oil seal or replacing the pump VAZ 2110

The oil seal is a rubber seal consisting of a metal rim, a spring and rubber. In any case, when disassembling the pump, the oil seal should be replaced, since the rubber wears out quickly. The procedure for replacing the oil seal is as follows:

The old seal is removed from the shaft.
The seat is cleaned of dirt.
A new seal is installed.

Pump leaks are usually caused by worn out seal.

Replacement of shaft and bearings

Often, due to high production, bearings have to be replaced. They can only be knocked out using special tools (a puller or a hydraulic vice). Therefore, a new shaft with bearings already mounted on it is usually installed in the pump.

The pump shaft is replaced along with the bearings

Order of Operations

A complete replacement of the coolant is not required for this type of repair if its service life has not expired. It is better to install the machine on an overpass or inspection hole. Further work is performed in the following sequence:

Disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal.
First, the cover of the expansion barrel is opened, and a container with a volume of at least 5 liters is placed under the cylinders. The coolant is drained into it; after draining, the cover must be replaced.
Then you need to remove the casing; to do this, unscrew the mounting bolts.
Now you need to fix the crankshaft at the dead top point of the 1st cylinder. To do this, the gear is engaged and the pulley mounting bolt is turned. The correct position is determined in this way: the mark on the timing case coincides with the mark on the shaft gear.

To statically fix the crankshaft, you need to insert a screwdriver between its teeth.
Now you need to loosen the tension on the timing belt; to do this, slightly unscrew the nut holding the roller. This is done with a special key, the direction of movement is counterclockwise.
After this operation, the roller and belt can be removed.
Now you can completely remove the casing. To do this, unscrew the five mounting bolts.
The water pump is now available. You need to pry it off with a screwdriver and remove it. The seat should be cleaned.
Now the VAZ 2110 8-valve injector pump is being directly replaced. But first you need to take a new gasket, coat it on both sides with autosealant, and install it on the pump.
The pump is installed in place.
Subsequent work is performed in the reverse order to that described above. It is advisable, along with replacing the VAZ 2110 8 pump, to change the roller and timing belt. This way you can accurately calculate the service life of these elements.
After installing the belt in place, you need to check its tension. To do this, take one of its fields with your fingers and unfold it in a horizontal plane. If you cannot turn the belt more than 90 degrees, the tension is normal.
After completing the work, add old or new coolant to the required level.