As a rule, repair and maintenance of the “tag” can be done with your own hands. Many car owners do this. Sometimes a VAZ 2115 has a problem with the engine idling. And then questions arise: where is the idle speed sensor on the VAZ 2115 and how to check its serviceability? Is it necessary to replace the part?
The idle speed control (or, as it is more commonly called, the idle speed sensor) is located in a mounting hole on the throttle body. The part is a cylinder with two small ears for fastening and a cone-shaped needle at the end.
The function of the idle speed sensor (this applies not only to the VAZ 2115, but to any car) is to regulate engine speed in neutral gear or when switching from one gear to another. The valve located outside the housing regulates the air supply to the combustion chambers. Its task is to open the throttle valve slightly if it is necessary to lean the fuel mixture (add a little air to the fuel). Proper operation of the element contributes to an increase in idle speed.
Important addition: IAC is installed only in VAZ 2115 models equipped with a mechanical throttle unit. In cars from 2010 to 2013, where the gas pedal is electronic, the sensor’s operation is handled by electronics.
Purpose
The idle speed sensor assumes the performance of a rather important function, which is to constantly regulate engine speed while driving in neutral gear, as a result of which you will not have to worry about the normal and uniform movement of the vehicle. This device also controls the speed during the process of switching from one speed to another, which is also quite important, since in the absence of such control, switching may occur unevenly, as a result of which the car will simply stall, which is unacceptable while driving, especially at high speed.
The valve, which is located on the outer part of the housing, is responsible for regulating the air supply to the combustion chambers, as a result of which the throttle valve opens slightly if it is necessary to connect the fuel mixture and air. Only proper operation of the sensor guarantees the ability to increase idle speed.
Description of RZH
Now we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the basic information regarding the reverse control. Where is it located, how to check the device and replace it? Read on.
Location and purpose
The main purpose of the RZH is to activate the white lights in the rear headlights, which indicate that the vehicle is starting to reverse. Thanks to this, other drivers know that the car will make a maneuver. Correct operation of the RZH allows you to prevent a possible collision on the road. As for the location, the device itself is installed on the gearbox; looking at the box, you can see two speed controllers and a speed controller.
Principle of operation
The main component of any RZH is the limit switch. When the driver engages reverse, this switch is activated and powered by the battery. The device closes the electrical circuit, resulting in voltage being supplied to the lighting sources located in the rear lights. If the driver disengages the reverse gear, the limit switch is pressed out, as a result, voltage is no longer supplied to the light bulb and it goes out.
Possible problems and methods for eliminating them
A breakdown of the RZH can be recognized by the absence of light from the lamps when reverse gear is activated. Before checking the sensor itself, you need to make sure that the lamps installed in the headlights are working properly.
There may be several reasons for problems:
- The contacts on the rear headlights have oxidized. If such a problem occurs, it is necessary to clean them, which will most likely help solve the problem. If the contacts are severely damaged, they will have to be replaced.
- Over time, when operating under vibration conditions, the regulator may become loose. If the device is working, then simply screw it on and check that it is securely installed.
- There is no contact with the electrical circuit in the box itself. It is necessary to restore the contact of the device and check the wiring.
- In some cases, the reason lies in the lack of contact between the connector, as well as the mounting block with fuses. In this case, you need to check all contacts for signs of burning or damage. If burning occurs, then you should find out the reason why power surges occur in the on-board network.
- In "Fours" it often happens that the safety device in the block burns out (we are talking about any fuses), and this contributes to disruption of the contact circuit. It is necessary to check all safety devices and replace the failed element (author of the video channel In Sandro's garage).
Sensor location and design
The idle air control is located in the mounting hole on the throttle body. It is a small cylinder that has two small ears, with the help of which the sensor is directly attached with a cone-shaped needle at the end.
Due to the fact that the sensor is small in size and has a very simplified design, the likelihood of various malfunctions and problems appearing is quite high, and therefore it is important to pay attention to the appearance of the first signs of a malfunction. If problems are observed, it is not recommended to use the vehicle, as the performance of internal structures will deteriorate.
Location of IAC VAZ 2115
How to clean the idle air control (IAC)?
If the Regulator does not work, then you can try to wash and clean the Regulator before spending money on a new IAC. Cleaning the rcx is an easy and quick process. To do this we will need carburetor cleaner or wd-40. On a VAZ 2114 with a 1.6 liter engine, you first need to unscrew the 2 nuts securing the throttle assembly to the receiver.
Then you need to move the throttle assembly away from the end of the receiver without removing it (by 1 cm).
- First, disconnect the wire block from the Regulator.
- Apply cleaner to a cotton swab and clean the contacts.
- Take a small Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 2 Regulator fasteners. (If there are no fasteners, then the sensor is seated on the varnish, in which case you need to remove the entire throttle assembly)
- We take out the Regulator and look at its condition: If the Regulator is covered in oil and black dirt, then the conclusion follows that in addition to cleaning it, you need to clean the throttle valve (This is the kind of fuel we have).
- Take WD-40 or carburetor cleaner and generously spray it on the conical needle with a spring, thereby cleaning it from dirt. Then we dry the Regulator and install it back. Before installation, check the distance from the sensor body to the needle (23mm).
If no changes are observed in the operation of the engine and the Regulator at idle, it means that the cone needle guides are worn out (replace with a new Regulator) or the wire inside the Regulator is broken.
At the time of purchase of the Idle Air Controller for a VAZ, the distance from the rod head to the flange should be no more than 23mm. Carefully measure the length of the protruding head.
It is recommended to install the Idle Air Controller from the Omega group with the number 2112-114830. Also quite good RXX 2112-1148300-04 “KZTA”. It is worth noting that when purchasing, you need to pay attention to the end mark 04. Regulators are produced with mark 01 02 03 04, so look at the mark of the old Regulator and purchase the same one. If you put, for example, a Regulator labeled 04 instead of 01, the Regulator will not work. The following replacement is allowed: 01 to 03, 02 to 04 and vice versa.
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Symptoms of a problem
If one of the following symptoms appears while using the car, this indicates a malfunction that will need to be eliminated:
- Some vibration of the engine appears during idling, that is, the vehicle shakes and rattles, and makes strange sounds.
- The machine stops functioning when switching to XX. Switching off can occur at the moment when the gears are changed or when driving in neutral gear.
- When starting the engine in a cold state, there is no increase in speed. If the part is working normally, there is a constant increase in indicators, otherwise they remain in one place, that is, at a fairly low level in comparison.
- There is a sharp increase or decrease in engine speed when idling, which can cause an emergency situation on the road. It is quite easy to notice such changes - sharp fluctuations of the instrument needle occur during movement.
In some cases, such symptoms indicate the presence of other problems, but it is worth noting that in any case it is necessary to check the idle speed sensor, just for your own safety.
Price
The table shows IACs, which, according to reviews from Lada car owners, are the most reliable and affordable.
| Manufacturer | vendor code | Price, (rubles) |
| LADA | 2112114830002 | 990 |
| AvtoVAZ | 21120114830004 | 600 |
| Standard | 21120-1148300-81 | 680 |
| Pegasus | 2112-1148300-03 | 805 |
| ERA | FJ480 | 370 |
Examination
To carry out an independent test, you will need a multimeter, which will need to be used in two stages: checking the state of the power circuit and checking the sensor itself.
Checking the power circuit condition:
The sequence of actions during verification is quite simple and understandable:
- The multimeter is turned on and the measurement is configured with a limit of 20 Volts
- Remove the corresponding connector from the sensor and turn on the ignition
- The probes of the device are connected to the connector, and a direction of at least 5 Volts must be shown - then everything is normal
Checking the functionality of the sensor:
In order to check the condition of the sensor, you will need to:
- Switch the multimeter to the device voltage measuring state
- Connect it to the terminals on the idle speed sensor
- Rotate the central part of the sensor, while constantly monitoring the state of the indicators - they should change smoothly
If all conditions are met, then the sensor is operational.
How to check IAC (idle air control)?
If your car has an unstable idle: 1) the speed drops and then increases, 2) the engine stalls while driving after resetting the gear, then the idle speed sensor is most likely dead. To do this, we need to check the sensor for functionality.
Checking pxx
To check the Idle Air Controller we need a tester.
- We find the Regulator and remove the wire block from it (If you have a 1.6-liter engine, then first unscrew the two fastenings of the throttle assembly to the receiver and move the throttle assembly from the end of the receiver by 1 cm)
- First, let's check the Regulator circuit to see if the voltage is suitable for it. We take a voltmeter and connect the negative block to ground (to the engine), plus connect it to the block of wires at terminal A and terminal D (the terminals are marked on the block). Turn on the ignition and look at the tester readings: the voltage should be at least 12 volts. If it is less, the battery is probably low. If there is no power, then the power circuit or the ECU is faulty. Turn off the ignition.
- Having checked the sensor circuit, we begin to check the Regulator itself: We connect the tester terminals to terminals A and B, then C and D - the resistance should be around 53 Ohms. Next, we measure the resistance in the following pairs: A and C, B and D. The resistance in these pairs should be infinitely large. If the readings of your Regulator are different, it is recommended to replace it. Before replacing the Regulator, try cleaning (How to clean the IAC?) and repairing (How to repair the IAC?) it. Perhaps you will save extra money.
There is another way to check: to do this, completely remove the Regulator by unscrewing two screws. Having pulled it out, connect the block to it and place your finger on the tip of the Regulator needle without making any effort. Theoretically, a working Regulator, at the moment the ignition is turned off, fully extends its needle. Therefore, when you turn on the ignition, you should feel a slight push on your finger. If this does not happen, then the Regulator is not working.
Replacement
Replacing the idle air control sensor on a VAZ 2115 is a fairly simple task that does not require much experience in car repairs. To replace, you only need a Phillips screwdriver and nothing else.
Let's start replacing the sensor:
- Remove the connector from the regulator;
- Unscrew the two screws securing the sensor to the remote control housing;
- Using a rotating motion, remove the IAC;
We install the new IAC in reverse order without damaging the O-ring.
Principle of operation
Turning on the ignition, the on-board computer begins to test the system. You can hear the fuel pump starting and all the lights on the instrument panel light up. At the same time, the idle air control completely blocks the air flow, and the control unit calculates the required number of steps and removes the needle, slightly opening the channel to the desired position.
The distance to the air flow can be different and depends on the parameter: hot or cold motor. For example, for warming up a rich mixture is required, which means the needle is extended as much as possible, but for operation on a hot engine the mixture is lean, that is, the regulator removes the lead screw, increasing the air supply.
For reference! The number of steps of the idle speed sensor on the VAZ 2115 depends on the type of software (firmware). For example, on a hot engine with a “January 5.1” controller the usual distance is 110 shg, and on a Bosch it’s 50 shg. (The maximum stroke reaches 250 shg.).
Cleaning methods
If it turns out that the problems in the system are due to a faulty IAC, you should not rush to buy a new device. It's better to clean and check the old sensor first.
To do this, you need to purchase a carburetor cleaner. To clean the XX device, you need to remove it. First you need to disconnect the wire block, and then tighten the mounting screws and remove the device.
Removing the DXX from the throttle assembly
The regulator should be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and debris. The conical needle and spring require special attention. In addition, you need to clean the location of the IAC on the throttle assembly. After cleaning, the device must be checked for serviceability and returned to its original place.
see also
Comments 53
Such garbage, I changed the rcx and the car won’t start at all, the sensor checked that the power supply is good, it also checked that it’s normal, what could it be?
Tell me, did your check light come on? I bought myself one with a 1.5 engine and it also shakes at idle, but the speed does not fluctuate. and the check light is on. the previous owner said the diagnostics ordered the camshaft sensor to be replaced, he changed it, but nothing changed
the same nonsense(((on the previous chepyrka 1.5 volume, replacement took five minutes... today it fit. And here is a 1.6 engine, ceramic manifold. Even not a single hinge fits
My car stalls periodically while driving when you let off the gas... does this IAC need to be changed?)
More likely. It was like this - I changed it, the problem went away
My car stalls periodically while driving when you let off the gas... does this IAC need to be changed?)
Yes! and there may also be air leaks after the mass air flow sensor!
My car stalls periodically while driving when you let off the gas... does this IAC need to be changed?)
I had the same issue! It turned out that the vacuum seal was sucking in air!
Guys, this is a problem, the fact is that when unscrewing the throttle assembly, the thread on one of the screws broke, on the one further away (closer to the front windshield), how can I now remove the piece of bolt that is left to replace it with a new one, maybe someone has Was there a similar problem?
I drilled this out. I don't know any other options
I stupidly unscrew this sensor without removing anything unnecessary)
Can you tell me the name of the tube that needs to be disconnected in the first photo?
Breather. Crankcase ventilation
Good afternoon I changed the IAC, when the engine is cold and keeps a speed of 1500, I turn on all the electrics and everything is fine. When the engine warmed up a little and the revolutions dropped to 1000, with all the electrics turned on, the engine continued to run smoothly. And when the temperature reached even higher speeds dropped to 800, and then when all the electrics were turned on, the engine speeds began to fluctuate and it stalled. I have a three-level relay on the gene and the switch is set to max 14.7, but it gives out all 15. At 1500 rpm and the electrics are on, it sags to 14.3, at 1000 rpm it gives out 13-13.4, and at 800 it sags to 11.9 and the revs start to fluctuate and it stalls. So what could be the problem in the gene or IAC, because... On the IAC box, the maximum voltage is from 13 to 14.2, but the gene gave 15 and the IAC came up, or does the gene still not provide that voltage at low speeds? The battery is charged and the starter turns well. I'm already tired of maintaining idle speed at every traffic light so as not to stall... Does anyone have any thoughts on this matter?
I have the same problem, if you solved this problem, tell me too!)
We disassembled the gene, it turned out that the diode bridge had been released. But the problem has not been completely solved, the revs just began to fluctuate less and the stalling became less frequent...
