How to change jet rods on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands

How to replace the upper silent block

First of all, unscrew the vertical bolt that serves to secure the front bumper - without this you will not be able to get to the axle. Then remove the nut holding the ball joint, and then press the finger out of its bipod with a puller.

• disconnect the upper arm from the body (you will need two 22 mm wrenches);
• fix the latter in a vice;
• Using a puller, remove the silent block and put a new part in its place.

Now all that remains is to assemble the entire assembly, proceeding in the reverse sequence described. And at the very end you need to do the following:

• turn the steering wheel;
• Tighten the bolt and nut holding the upper arm until snug.

Replacing silent blocks

Change the cabin filter on a viburnum with your own hands.
The process of replacing the silent blocks of the VAZ-2106 suspension can be conditionally divided into two stages:

1. Replacement of front suspension joints (upper and lower arms).
2. Replacing the silent blocks of the rear suspension torque rods.

Replacing the silent blocks of the upper arms

Replacing the silent blocks of one of the upper arms of the VAZ-2106 with your own hands is carried out in the following order (not forgetting about safety precautions):

1. Loosen the bolts securing the desired wheel and jack up the car.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Using two 13mm wrenches, unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint.
4. Using two 22mm wrenches, remove the lever nut, remove the axle and dismantle the upper lever.

1. Press out the hinge using a special puller

1. The lever is fixed in a vice and, by tightening the puller bolt, the hinge is squeezed out of its seat.
2. The second hinge is pressed out in the same way.
3. Using the same puller, press in new parts and install the upper arm in place. To do this, repeat the steps in reverse order.
4. Worn parts on the second lever are changed in the same way.

Replacing the silent blocks of the lower arms

Replace the rubber-metal joints on the lower arms in a similar way. Only in this case the latter are not removed from the car.

Procedure:

1. Remove the desired wheel.
2. Using a 22mm wrench, unscrew the axle nuts on both sides of the lever and remove the thrust washers.
3. Screw the hollow bolt of the puller onto the axle. Then you need to tighten the nut, holding the bolt from turning. The puller glass will put pressure on the lower arm, gradually moving it away from the hinge.

1. Insert the new hinge into place and center it in the hole, pressing the lever with a mounting blade. Then, installing the puller stop on the inside of the last one, press it in.
2. Similar operations are carried out with the remaining silent blocks, after which all the removed parts are returned to their places.

Important! The hinges need to be finally tightened only after the car is placed on its wheels. Experienced drivers even recommend driving 250...300 meters on loose fasteners. Only after this they will take the correct position and the nuts can be tightened.

Only after this they will take the correct position and the nuts can be tightened.

Replacement of silent blocks of rear suspension torque rods

In order to replace worn silent blocks on VAZ-2106 thrust rods, you must:

1. Place the car on a viewing hole or overpass.
2. Remove all jet rods in the following order:

• long transverse rod;
• long pull to the right;
• left long pull;
• short left pull;
• right short pull.

1. The rubber-metal joints of the torque rods are changed using procedures that are similar to those given above when describing the replacement of the silent blocks of the VAZ-2106 front suspension.

More information about the technology for replacing silent blocks of VAZ-2106 jet thrusts can be found at:

Adviсe!

1. Before pressing the rubber bushings in, they must be “lubricated” with a soap solution. The use of machine or motor oil is not allowed, since they are made of non-oil and petrol resistant rubber.
2. When installing the jet rods in place, do not forget to lubricate all fasteners with graphite grease or nigrol. Otherwise, the next replacement of silent blocks on a VAZ-2106 will begin with cutting off the torque rod mounting bolts.

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Thrust installation is carried out according to this algorithm

1. Install the linkage into the front bracket first. Before inserting the bolt into the prepared place, be sure to lubricate it with nigrol.

2. Insert the torque rod into the rear bracket. Don't be surprised if the holes don't line up.

If the rod was broken, then under the influence of loads the bridge would constantly move. This, in turn, caused the mount to move.

To align the holes, you need to take a mounting blade, rest it on the bracket and unscrew the bridge until the holes align. As soon as the openings are at the same level, insert the bolt and tighten the nut.

With simple manipulations, you can replace the jet thrust yourself and save some money on visiting a service station.

The main thing is not to miss the moment when the rod or bushing fails. Good luck on the roads and of course no breakdowns.

Full size

Lower arm repair

How to change the lower ball joint on a VAZ 2107

If the lower arm is slightly bent and no other damage is detected, then you can continue to operate the car, you just need to check the wheel alignment. Repair or replacement of this element of the front suspension is carried out in the following cases:

• severe damage to the lower arm;
• appearance of cracks.

To complete the work you will need the following tools:

• set of open-end wrenches;
• set of heads;
• metal brush;
• jack;
• puller for pressing out silent blocks;
• device for removing ball joints;
• mounting blade;
• penetrating liquid;
• hammer;
• vice.

Removing the lever

The need to dismantle the lower arm arises when the specified element fails to replace the axle or silent blocks.

Work order:

1. Raise the front of the car. To do this, use a jack, but you can also use a lift.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Unscrew the lower shock absorber mount.
4. Loosen the nuts on the axle.
5. Release the stabilizer pad mounting.
6. Lightly load the suspension. To do this, you will need a reliable support, which is placed under the lever and the car is lowered slightly.
7. Unscrew the nut on the support and press out the pin. This is done using a special puller.
8. Unload the suspension. This must be done smoothly. Gently pull back the stabilizer to move it through the pin located on the lower arm.
9. Remove the spring. To do this, it is pryed up and removed from the support cup.
10. Unscrew the axle mounting bolts. Under them there are washers that are used to adjust the camber angle of the wheels. You need to remember their location, otherwise you will have to make adjustments again.
11. Remove the lower arm. To do this, use a mounting spatula, which is used to gently press out the axle.

Video: sequence of dismantling the lower arm

Replacing the ball joint

You can replace the ball joint on the lower arm without removing it. Since we have already removed the lower arm, it will be much easier to change the ball joint on it:

1. Clean the ball joint mounting nuts. This is done using a metal brush; you can also lubricate the threads with WD-40.
2. Remove the support. To do this, unscrew the three fastening nuts and remove the indicated element. Carefully inspect the lever to detect possible damage and cracks.
3. Install a new ball joint and tighten all nuts.

The new ball joint already comes with lubricant, so there is no need to lubricate it additionally. Some supports have an oil nipple in the lower part, through which you can additionally fill it with lubricant over time.

Video: replacing the ball joint

Replacing silent blocks

The sequence of work to replace silent blocks on the removed lower arm:

1. The lever is securely fixed in a vice.
2. Using a puller, the old hinges are pressed out.
3. Inspect the lever for damage.
4. One silent blocks are inserted. A puller is also used for this.
5. The axle is inserted into the hole along with the washers.
6. Press in the second hinge. They do this in the same way as in the previous case.

Video: replacing silent blocks

Experts recommend that after replacing the ball joint and silent blocks, use only new nuts.

Lever Installation

After repairing the lever body, replacing silent blocks or a ball joint, installation of the lower lever is performed in the reverse order:

1. The axle and the lever are secured using bolts.
2. The lower edge of the spring is installed in the support cup. After this, they begin to tighten the lower lever. Make sure that the stabilizer does not catch on the bushing.
3. Insert the threaded part of the ball joint and fix the nut.
4. Fix the stabilizer pad.
5. Install the shock absorber and tighten the nut.
6. Check the tightness of all nuts. They must be clamped securely and firmly.
7. Install the wheels and remove the car from the jack.

At this point, the replacement of the lower arm is considered complete, and you can continue to operate the car safely and comfortably.

Video: installing the lower arm

By regularly inspecting the condition of the front suspension on the VAZ 2107, you can notice and eliminate any malfunctions in time. Even a novice car enthusiast can replace the lever, ball joint or silent blocks on his own. Keeping the suspension in good condition ensures not only comfortable, but also safe operation of the vehicle. The use of high-quality parts from trusted manufacturers will significantly increase their service life and repairs will need to be performed much less frequently.

Signs

What may indicate the need to replace this element? If you do not take into account external inspection, a traction fault can be determined by the nature of the car’s behavior. Over time, the bushings become loose and the rod no longer performs its function.

The car rolls more when cornering, and dull knocks are also heard in the cabin. This indicates failed silent blocks. Well, if the rod is rusty and broken, part of it will simply drag along the ground. It is hardly possible not to notice such a malfunction. But how can you get home if your traction breaks on the way? You can hang part of it on some element under the bottom (for example, a muffler) using a wire and carefully move to the parking area and repair.

Independent removal and installation of new parts on the lower arm

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Removing the lower silent blocks on a VAZ 2107 begins with the following steps:

1. The anti-roll bar mounting bracket is unscrewed and through the upper stud of its mounting, it is moved to the free position.
2. The two nuts securing the lower arm axis are unscrewed, after which the ball joint is removed, unscrewing its nut and using a puller or hammer, it is removed from the steering knuckle.

Next, unscrew the two bolts securing the lower arm to the cross beam of the car, dismantle it, clamp it in a vice, and using a puller, carefully press out the old silent blocks, replacing which they install new ones, having previously cleaned their seats, after which they install the units in the reverse order.

After replacing the silent blocks on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands, the car is completely lowered onto all wheels, and under a standard load on the suspension, all axle nuts are finally tightened. Also watch the video of the work in progress:

Purpose of silent blocks

Silent blocks are called hinges consisting of two or one metal bushings connected through a rubber insert. The part in question in the form of metal bushings serves to combine suspension units, and rubber materials serve as dampers of vibrations that occur when the machine moves, transmitted from one unit to another. Due to these small parts, the service life of the car suspension is extended, since all vibrations, deformations and vibrations are smoothed out using a silent block.

The design of the VAZ-2107 vehicle uses a corresponding number of silent blocks located in the front and rear suspension. In the design of the front suspension of the seven, the devices in question are used to fix the levers, and in the rear suspension they are used to connect the reaction rods connecting the axle to the body.

Signs of malfunction of levers and silent blocks

Any part has its own service life. The more stress a part experiences, the faster it wears out. It is imperative to monitor the condition of the silent blocks, since over time the following consequences are observed: the rubber begins to tear, beating and vibrations occur at the joints. Moreover, rubber wear occurs not only when the machine is in operation, but also when it is idle, since rubber material tends to deteriorate under the influence of many factors.

The approximate service life of the devices in question is 90-100 thousand kilometers. Moreover, this only applies to hinges made of high-quality rubber or polyurethane. It is also worth noting that polyurethane products have a longer service life, unlike rubber ones, but at the same time they have such disadvantages as installation difficulties (it is almost impossible to install them without a special puller), and also the suspension with them becomes stiffer.

The need to replace hinges can be diagnosed by a number of the following signs:

1. Lack of “responsiveness” of the car when the steering wheel is turned sharply.
2. During the inspection, deformations of the devices are revealed.
3. Knock from the suspension when driving over uneven surfaces.
4. Backlash in the locations of parts.

If you are not sure that the devices should be replaced, you can visit a service station, where the technicians will carry out diagnostics and inform you about the need to replace the joints on the machine.

When a VAZ-2107 needs to replace jet rods

As previously mentioned, rods are made of high-quality metal (mainly steel). This raw material can withstand heavy loads over many years of use.

The weak point of the rods is the eyes. These parts are welded to the rods and are not a continuation of them, and the welding has a certain service life. Over time, the solder joints may gradually become damaged or destroyed.

To avoid problems when driving and to prevent malfunction of the rods, you need to periodically check the condition of the spare parts. If deformation, cracks, or signs of destruction occur, the reaction rods must be replaced.

It is especially necessary to monitor the suitability of silent blocks, which often break when they cannot withstand loads. As a result of this, the fastening of the rods weakens, they begin to move relative to the base, ceasing to perform their direct functions.

In this case, there is no need to wait for the rubber bands to fail. If knocking noises occur while the vehicle is moving, inspect and identify damage to the rods, change them immediately. To do this, you don’t have to go to a service station; you can do everything yourself.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Jack up and remove the wheel.

2. Unscrew the bolt securing the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Use a wrench with a 16mm head to turn the nut, and use a 16mm wrench to hold the head of the bolt.

After unscrewing, if the bolt cannot be removed by hand, we help it come out with a drift to size.

3. Now we need to remove the ball pin from the fist. To do this, take a flat screwdriver and lightly hammer it into the wedge where the fastening bolt was located. With this action we will “wake up the finger”. Next, take the pipe, insert it into the lever and push the pipe down until the finger comes out. If the finger does not come out, you can help a little with a hammer at the moment when tension is applied to the pipe. Use a hammer to hit the lever in the direction where your finger comes out.

4. If you have a Logan with a stabilizer, then you need to unscrew the stabilizer link. You need to hold it on top of the lever under Torx T40 and unscrew the nut thirteen from the bottom of the lever.

5. Move the protective cover to the side to gain access to the lever mounting bolts. Threaded clip. Unscrews by hand.

6. Unscrew the nut and bolt marked below. They strengthen the traction. The nut on the lever is an eighteen key, the top bolt is a thirteen key.

After unscrewing, remove the rod.

7. Unscrew the two bolts securing the lever and remove the lever.

Please note that the front lever mounting bolt is longer than the rear one. It is longer due to the fact that a rod is also attached to it. 8

Check the condition of the ball joint and measure the hole on the arm for the stabilizer link. The hole should not be larger than 16 mm, a maximum of 1 mm of wear is allowed. If your hole is normal and the ball is live, then it makes sense to change the silent blocks. If something is wrong with any of the above, then it is cheaper and more profitable to replace the lever assembly

8. Check the condition of the ball joint and measure the hole on the arm for the stabilizer link. The hole should not be larger than 16 mm, a maximum of 1 mm of wear is allowed. If your hole is normal and the ball is live, then it makes sense to change the silent blocks. If something is wrong with any of the above, then it is cheaper and more profitable to replace the lever assembly.

If you follow the manufacturer's recommendations, then in general it is recommended to always replace the lever assembly.

9. Before pressing out the silent blocks, we measure their extension as shown in the photo below. New ones need to be planted approximately the same, 1-2 mm is allowed.

We select a mandrel so that it rests around the silent block against the lever. We select the head according to the size of the silent block. We clamp this thing in a vice and squeeze the silent block into the mandrel. If the silent block does not come out completely, we help it a little with a hammer.

We carry out this procedure with two silent blocks.

10. Lubricate the outer part of the silent blocks with a little oil. Next, we select the size of the heads so that one head presses on the silent block holder, and it fits into the other. We clamp it in a vice and, controlling the size, press it in.

The distance from the beginning of the silent block to the edge of the lever is approximately 7 mm. If your silent block is not quite straight, it’s okay. On new original levers they are often not level.

11. We perform reverse assembly. Among the assembly nuances, it is worth noting that the bolts for fastening the silent blocks of the lever must be tightened from the hole when the wheel is loaded.

Also pay attention to the bolt securing the ball joint pin. Make sure that the thread is not pulled. If the bolt is damaged, it only needs to be replaced with the original bolt.

I think there is no need to explain what will happen if the bolt securing the ball pin breaks. Ball bolt tightening torque 60 N.m

If the bolt is damaged, it should only be replaced with the original bolt. I think there is no need to explain what will happen if the bolt securing the ball pin breaks. Ball bolt tightening torque 60 N.m.

There are no more assembly nuances, everything is in reverse order. If you have any questions, please ask below in the comments.

Lower

Replacing the lower silent blocks of a VAZ-2107 is a more complex cycle. Sometimes it is impossible to replace a rubber-metal joint using a puller, then you have to completely dismantle the lower arm. You will need to use zip ties for the front suspension springs. The part is also completely removed when there is no remover for such hinges.

When replacing silent blocks, unscrew both nuts from its axis; before doing this, they should be cleaned of dirt and, if necessary, treated with a “bucket”. The nuts and washers are removed from the axis of the lower arm, after which you can try to replace the worn silent block. A puller is screwed onto the free end of the axle and the hinge begins to squeeze out. Here you will have to apply some effort. The same operation is carried out on the other side.

Now they begin to install new silent blocks. They are also installed on a dry surface. Pressing will again require force. If the hinges are in their place, install washers with nuts and screw them in until they stop. They should not be tightened.

Now you can put the wheel in its place and remove the car jack. Experts recommend replacing the silent blocks of the VAZ-2107 simultaneously on both sides of the front suspension. When the car is on wheels, the hinges take their position, after which the nuts on the bolts and axles of the silent blocks should be thoroughly tightened with a wrench.

Advice! After replacing the hinges, be sure to adjust the toe-in and camber of the front wheels.

If replacing the silent blocks of a VAZ-2107 with your own hands without removing it from the car is not possible, you will have to dismantle the lower arm. At the same time, the amount of work will increase significantly. To remove it you will have to disassemble the suspension. Remove the front shock absorber and release the anti-roll bar mount on the lower arm. Next, you will need a front spring clamp. You can remove it with a pry bar, but installing it in place without ties is problematic.

The axis of the lower arm of the VAZ-2107 is attached to the beam with two bolts. They should be cleaned of dirt, treated with a “bucket” and then unscrew the nuts. The wheel camber adjusting washers are on the bolts. You should remember how they are installed so that later during assembly you can put them in place. When the part is in your hands, you can begin to dismantle the hinges.

Not all the “little details” of such an operation are described. For clarity, we recommend watching the video:

Suspension repair

We show you how to replace the upper silent blocks on the classic VAZ 2107 2106 2105 2104, etc. with your own hands. First, unscrew the cap, the wheel, and remove it. We remove the fender liner and unscrew the upper bolt that holds the upper arm, knock it out. It is worth noting that such a bolt is installed only in VAZ 2107 and VAZ 2105; you will not find it on sixes. The lever is removed only from the top, the ball joint moves off. We turn it outside and use a puller to squeeze out the silent blocks (a puller can be purchased at an auto store, it is inexpensive). When the silent block is moved, it is enough to pry it off with a mounting tool and pick it out. It is best to lubricate the seats with lithol, so the silent blocks will stick less to the lever and remove them and it will be easier next time. Also, using a puller, we press the silent block into the upper arm.

The silent block should reach the protrusion on its body. Now we reassemble in reverse order.

Video of replacing the upper silent blocks on the classic VAZ 2107 2106 2105:

Backup video instruction:

Option 1:

Silent blocks VAZ 2106

Quite high loads are constantly placed on the silent blocks of car suspensions, especially on roads with poor surfaces. Such conditions significantly reduce the life of these parts, as a result of which they fail and need to be replaced. Since the controllability of the car depends on the condition of the silent blocks, you need to know not only how to identify a fault, but also how to replace these suspension components.

What it is

The silent block is a rubber-metal product, structurally made of two iron bushings with a rubber insert between them. Through these parts, the components of the car's suspension are connected, and thanks to the rubber part, vibrations transmitted from one suspension element to another are dampened.

Silent blocks connect suspension elements and dampen vibrations

Where installed

On the VAZ 2106, silent blocks are pressed into the arms of the front suspension, as well as into the reaction rods of the rear axle, connecting it to the body. The condition of these elements must be periodically monitored, and if they are damaged, repairs must be made in a timely manner.

The front suspension of the classic Zhiguli consists of the following parts: 1. Spar. 2. Stabilizer bracket. 3. Rubber cushion. 4. Stabilizer bar. 5. Lower arm axis. 6. Lower suspension arm. 7. Hairpin. 8. Lower arm amplifier. 9. Stabilizer bracket. 10. Stabilizer clamp. 11. Shock absorber. 12. Bracket bolt. 13. Shock absorber bolt. 14. Shock absorber bracket. 15. Suspension spring. 16. Steering knuckle. 17. Ball joint bolt. 18. Elastic liner. 19. Cork. 20. Insert clip. 21. Bearing housing. 22. Ball bearing. 23. Protective cover. 24. Lower ball pin. 25. Self-locking nut. 26. Finger. 27. Spherical washer. 28. Elastic liner. 29. Pressure ring. 30. Insert clip. 31. Bearing housing. 32. Bearing. 33. Upper suspension arm. 34. Upper arm amplifier. 35. Compression progress buffer. 36. Buffer bracket. 37. Support cap. 38. Rubber cushion. 39. Nut. 40. Belleville washer. 41. Rubber gasket. 42. Spring support cup. 43. Upper arm axis. 44. Inner bushing of the hinge. 45. Outer bushing of the hinge. 46. ​​Rubber bushing of the hinge. 47. Thrust washer. 48. Self-locking nut. 49. Adjusting washer 0.5 mm 50. Distance washer 3 mm. 51. Cross member. 52. Inner washer. 53. Inner sleeve. 54. Rubber bushing. 55. Outer thrust washer

What are there

On the VAZ “Six” and other Zhiguli models, silent blocks made of rubber were installed from the factory. However, instead of them, you can use polyurethane products, thereby improving the performance of the suspension and its characteristics. Polyurethane hinges have a longer service life compared to rubber ones. The main disadvantage of polyurethane elements is their high price. If a set of silent blocks made of rubber for a VAZ 2106 costs about 450 rubles, then made of polyurethane it will cost 1,500 rubles. Hinges made of modern material not only improve the behavior of the car, but also better absorb shock and vibration, reducing noise.

Silicone silent blocks, despite their higher cost, improve the characteristics and performance of the suspension

What is the resource

The service life of rubber-metal joints directly depends on the quality of the products and the operation of the vehicle. If the car is used mainly on good quality roads, then the silent blocks can last 100 thousand km. If you frequently drive through potholes, of which there are many on our roads, the service life of the part is noticeably reduced and repairs may be required after 40–50 thousand km.

Purpose

It is worth noting that this traction was used by automakers long before the appearance of the classics. Thus, the element was used on cars with dependent leaf spring suspension. The design of the rod has not changed for years. On the “seven” this element is a long metal pipe installed under the bottom near the rear axle.

The part is attached to the body using rubber-metal bushings. Why is jet thrust needed on a VAZ-2107? This element is designed to prevent lateral rocking of the car. Since the Zhiguli had a dependent suspension at the rear, this car leaned heavily when cornering. To stabilize its body and increase safety, the machine is equipped with jet thrust. The VAZ-2107 is equipped with an element made of elastic steel grades. This material can withstand high loads for a long time and works well in compression and tensile strength.