How to change the generator on a VAZ-2107 yourself

02/27/2022 15,459 VAZ 2107

Author: Ivan Baranov

As with any car, the generator on the VAZ 2107 injector works in parallel with the battery - these are two power sources for the car, which are used in different modes. The article discusses the generator 37.3701, the principle of operation of the generator with different characteristics, including a maximum current of 80 Amperes, and provides instructions for connecting the unit. The G222 generator set is similar, you just need to pay attention to some differences.

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Where is the generator located on the VAZ 2107

The generator on the VAZ 2107 functions in close connection with the battery. As with any other car, this device generates electricity to power all elements of the car. In this case, the generator performs its function only when the engine is running.

On the VAZ 2107 this mechanism is located directly on the surface of the power unit on its right side. This position is due to the fact that the generator is started by the movement of the crankshaft through the V-belt.

The generator housing is adjacent to the right side of the engine

Connecting devices

The generator is connected in parallel to the battery. The relay regulator monitors the voltage level and controls the excitation current of the generator. Figure 1 shows a connection diagram for a 37.3701 generator with a built-in relay regulator.

Let's list the elements of the scheme:

Battery.
Diode "-".
Additional diode.
Generator.
Diode "+".
Stator winding.
Regulator.
Excitation winding.
Capacitor.
Mounting block.
Charge indicator lamp.
Voltmeter (not available on VAZ-2105).
Ignition relay.
Ignition switch.

Figure 1. Connection diagram for generator 37.3701 with built-in relay regulator.
Note that several electrical circuits have been developed for the “sevens”. They may vary. For example, the VAZ-2107 circuit with fuel injection is not suitable for Zhiguli cars that have a carburetor.

Voltage measurements are carried out with the engine idle and running. The tester switch is set opposite the 20 V mark. We measure the battery voltage before starting the engine. The numerical value will be 12-13 V.

After startup, the voltmeter readings will rise to 14.2-14.5 V.

Such indicators indicate the serviceability of the generator unit and charging circuit.

Selecting a generator for VAZ 2107

An assistant will be needed to carry out the inspection. Controls the generator output voltage of the regulator relay, which is an electrical circuit. You will need to disassemble the generator and replace the bearings. If the diodes fail, the rectifier unit is replaced with a new one.

Engine compartment lamp.

Main components of the generator Structurally, it consists of the following main elements: Rotor - a moving part that rotates from the engine crankshaft.

How to remove the generator To carry out dismantling you will need the following tools: Spanners 10, 13 and an engine compartment lamp.

It also happens that the wire simply oxidizes and the contact is lost, but this needs to be identified at an early stage, otherwise you won’t be able to go very far with a dead battery.

The stator is the stationary part of the generator and also has a winding.

With the required tension, the deflection should not exceed 10 mm. how to connect generator 2108,2109,21099 to 2101 (classic) part 2.

Article number and cost of the original VAZ 2107 generator and its analogues

The original VAZ 2107 generator has an article number 21013701005 or 2101370300. The cost of the G-221 is in the range of 3500-5200 rubles. At the same time, there are a large number of used units on sale. They are sold at prices starting from 450 rubles.

G-221 is a very good and reliable unit with high maintainability. It is capable of delivering only 42 A, which was enough for standard equipment. The installation of acoustic systems, heating and other electricity consumers led to an increased load on the unit.

Because of this, the battery is often undercharged, which negatively affects its service life. Therefore, owners purchase more powerful generators from third-party manufacturers. The best analogues for G-221 are presented in the table below.

Table - Well-proven alternatives to the original VAZ 2107 generator

Manufacturer Article number of the generator Approximate cost, ruble

Eldix	ELDA2101	2400-2700
Startvolt	LG0101	3200-4000
Motorherz	ALR0130WA	3690-3720
Fenox	AL11201O7	4400-5200
Lucas	LRA00533	7000-7500

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Mounting block connection diagram

P1 — relay for turning on the heated rear window; P2 - relay for turning on the headlight cleaners and washer; P3 - relay for turning on sound signals; P4 - relay for switching on the electric motor of the engine cooling system fan; P5 - headlight high beam relay; P6 - low beam headlight relay; A - the order of conditional numbering of plugs in the mounting block blocks. The outer number with the letter “Ш” in the plug designation is the block number, and the inner number is the conventional number of the plug.

Malfunctions

The main malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 generator include:

brush wear;
failure of the diode bridge (rectifier unit);
failure of rotor bearings;
short circuit in the excitation winding;
break or short circuit in the stator winding.

Signs of a faulty generator are:

no indicator light on the dashboard comes on;
the voltmeter needle is in the red zone;
sparking inside the generator;
noise during operation (hum or howl);
smoke and burning smell coming from the generator.

Schemes of individual blocks of the seven

Power supply system

Power plant starting system

1 - starter; 2 - relay; 3 — ignition switch; 4 - battery

Ignition system

1 - generator; 2 — ignition switch; 3 - distributor; 4 - breaker; 5 — candles; 6 - coil; 7 - battery

Contactless ignition system

External and internal lighting

Windshield wipers and washers

1 — electric motors of the windshield wiper; 2 — washer motor; 3 — mounting block; 4 — ignition switch; 5 - washer switch

Cooling Fan

1 — fan electric motor; 2 - sensor; 3 — mounting block; 4 - ignition relay; 5 - ignition switch.

Replacing a VAZ 2107 generator with your own hands

Replacing a generator set is required in cases where the device no longer produces the required amount of current for consumer systems. The most common reasons for replacing an installation are the following malfunctions and breakdowns:

burnt winding;
interturn short circuit;
deformation of the generator housing;
resource development.

It is almost always easier and more profitable to replace the generator with a new one than to repair it.

Most often, generator sets fail due to short circuits and severe wear of the windings.
If you do not want to overpay for the work of installing a new generator, you can install it yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated in this procedure.

Required tools:

a socket wrench with a “cardan” for 17 (for models 372.3701) or the same for 13 (for models 9412.3701);
socket wrench 19;
10mm socket wrench.

Tool preparation

To dismantle and subsequently install the generator on a VAZ 2107, you will need a standard set of tools, which every driver usually has in his garage:

wrench 10;
wrench 17;
wrench 19;
a pry bar or a special shovel for installation work.

No other devices or devices are required.

Work order

Place the car on an overpass or car inspection pit and secure it with the parking brake.
Raise the hood, disconnect the ground wire from the battery.
For easy access to the generator mounts, remove the battery using a 10 mm wrench;
Using a 17 or 13 socket wrench (depending on the model), unscrew the nut securing the generator to the adjusting bar.
Go down into the inspection hole and remove the engine protection.
Remove the alternator belt from its pulley.
Disconnect the wire block from the generator contacts.
Move aside the rubber protective cap and, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ends of the electrical wires to the “positive” terminal of the generator connected to the corresponding battery terminal.
Using a 19mm socket wrench, unscrew the nut securing the generator stator to the cylinder block bracket.
Remove the retaining bolt and remove the generator from the bottom of the engine compartment.
Install the new generator in place.
Place the belt on its pulley, as well as on the water pump and crankshaft pulleys.
Secure the generator and attach the engine protection.

How to remove a VAZ 2107 generator

The VAZ 2107 generator is located in a rather inconvenient place. To make it easier to access, it is better to carry out work on a lift or pit. Before starting work, it is necessary to de-energize the vehicle's electrical systems by disconnecting the battery terminals. Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

Remove the engine protection and the right front fender liner.
Disconnect the wires from the generator (you must remember how they were connected.
Loosen the nut holding the generator and remove the belt from it.
Unscrew the nut from the bolt securing the generator to the bracket. If it is rusty, use WD-40.
Remove the mounting bolt. If it does not come out, it must be treated with WD-40 and carefully knocked out.
Remove the generator.

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If, despite your efforts, you cannot disconnect the generator from the bracket, you will have to remove it along with it. To do this, you need to unscrew 2 (or, depending on the design, 3 bolts) securing the bracket to the engine.

Next, in order to ensure the removal of the VAZ 2107 generator along with the bracket, you will have to move the radiator. There is no need to drain the antifreeze, disconnect the pipes and remove the radiator from the car. It is enough to unscrew its fastenings and move it, providing free access to the bracket and generator.

When removing the generator, you can do without an inspection hole or lift by removing the generator through the wheel arch. This method is only suitable if the bolts and nuts are not rusty and it is possible to remove the generator without a mounting bracket.

How to install a VAZ 2107 radiator

Installing the generator is not particularly difficult, since there is no need to deal with rusted bolted connections. The procedure for installation is the reverse of removal. After installing the generator, you need to install the belt and tension it. If you tighten it too loosely, the belt will slip when the generator is loaded, producing a characteristic whistle. Excessive belt tension will cause premature wear of the alternator bearing. It is easy to check the correct belt tension: it must be turned by hand along the longitudinal axis by 90 degrees. If the angle is smaller, the belt will be tightened. If more, it is weakened.

After installing the generator, connecting the wires to it and tensioning the belt, you can connect the battery terminals.

Everything is ready for testing. You can start the engine. The functionality of the generator can be checked with a voltmeter by measuring the voltage on the battery. When the car engine is running, the on-board voltage should be 14 volts.

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Next, let's get to work:

-Remove the unit from the engine and, using the “ten” key, unscrew the nut from terminal “30”. We remove the capacitor wire.

-Unscrew the fastening screw and remove the capacitor.

-Remove the charging relay and the corresponding insulating washer.

-Unscrew the fastening nut from the pulley.

-We disassemble the pulley and impeller.

-Remove the ring installed behind the key.

-Pull the front cover off the rotor shaft

-Remove the adjusting washer (don’t forget to put it back when installing).

-Using the “8” wrench, unscrew the nuts that hold the bearing

-Remove the outer and inner bearing caps.

-Knock out the bearing.

- Press in a new bearing. To do this, you need to apply several light blows through a special mandrel.

-Re-lock the nuts.

-Knock out the anchor from the back cover. We remove it together with the rear bearing.

-If it needs to be replaced, remove it from the rotor shaft.

-Unscrew the three nuts that secure the stator terminals to the diode bridge.

-We take out three bolts from the back cover along with special insulating gaskets.

-Remove the diode bridge and winding.

It is better to replace, if necessary, the diode bridge assembly. We clean all generator parts from dirt, dust and oil. We perform assembly in reverse order.

Alternator belt VAZ 2107

Quite often the belt on a generator breaks or becomes deformed (stretched), so it is very important to know how you can replace it yourself in any situation, even an emergency.

Alternator belt sizes

All parts used in the design of the car must have markings and manufacturer numbers. Design numbers and sizes of belts for the VAZ 2107 are specified in the operational documents for this model:

2101–1308020 (smooth surface), dimensions - 10.0x8.0x944.0 mm;
2107–1308020 (toothed surface), dimensions - 10.7x8.0x944.0 m.

How to properly tension the belt on the generator

When installing a generator on a VAZ 2107 yourself, the most difficult moment is considered to be proper belt tension. After all, it is through the belt that the generator mechanism will be launched, therefore, any errors and miscalculations when tensioning the rubber product will affect the performance of the car.

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The belt tension is performed as follows:

Place the new generator in its regular place, placing it on the studs.
Tighten the fixing nuts only halfway, without over-tightening.
Use a pry bar to install into the gap formed between the generator wall and the pump. Secure the mount in this position.
Place the new belt on the alternator pulley.
Hold the pry bar and begin tensioning the belt.
Tighten the fixing nut in the upper part of the mounting of the generator unit housing.
Afterwards, carry out a preliminary diagnosis of the degree of tension - the rubber product should not sag downward much.
Tighten the lower stud nut until it ends without overtightening.

The diagram shows places for checking the tension quality.
Next, the quality of the belt tension is checked. Using two fingers, press firmly on the free part of the belt and measure the existing deflection. Normal sagging should not be more than 1.5 centimeters.

The service life of a typical belt for a VAZ 2107 generator is usually 80 thousand kilometers. However, it is recommended to change the belt drive earlier if the generator set is being replaced.

Thus, the generator on the “seven” can be replaced with your own hands, but you must adhere to strict rules and observe safety precautions. If you have problems with the operation of the motor after replacing the device yourself, it is better to contact a professional.

Car wiring diagram

1 – radiator fan drive motor; 2 – relay and fuse block (mounting block); idle speed sensor; 4 – engine control unit; 5 – potentiometer; 6 – set of spark plugs; 7 – ignition control unit; 8 – electronic crankshaft sensor; 9 – electric fuel pump; 10 – tachometer 2107; 11 – lamp for monitoring the health of electronic systems; 12 – ignition system control relay; 13 – speed sensor; 14 – diagnostic connector; 15 – set of injectors; 16 – adsorber solenoid valve; 17, 18, 19 – fuse block protecting the injection system circuits; 21 – electronic fuel pump control relay; 22 – electronic relay for controlling the intake pipe heating system; 23 – intake pipe heating system; 24 – fuse protecting the heater circuit; 25 – electronic oxygen level sensor; 26 – cooling system temperature control sensor; 27 – electronic air damper sensor; 28 – air temperature sensor; 29 – pressure control sensor.