Replacing the generator on a VAZ-2107 - main faults, how to change it yourself

Structurally, the VAZ 2107 is not considered a complex device (especially if we talk about carburetor models of the “seven”). Due to the comparative simplicity of the car's mechanisms, many owners can independently service it and carry out repair work. But problems may arise with some elements - for example, with a generator. Not all car owners know how to work with electrical appliances, which is why they often make mistakes when replacing and connecting generators on their own.

• How to replace the generator on a VAZ 2107
  Tool preparation
• Dismantling works

  Photo gallery: main stages of work

• Video: instructions for replacing the generator on a VAZ 2107

Where is the generator located on the VAZ 2107

The generator on the VAZ 2107 functions in close connection with the battery. As with any other car, this device generates electricity to power all elements of the car. In this case, the generator performs its function only when the engine is running.

On the VAZ 2107 this mechanism is located directly on the surface of the power unit on its right side. This position is due to the fact that the generator is started by the movement of the crankshaft through the V-belt.

The generator housing is adjacent to the right side of the engine

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How to Remove a VAZ 2107 Generator Without a Pit

How to change the generator on a VAZ 2107

Replacing a VAZ 2107 generator yourself is a rather difficult procedure. From time to time, when removing an old generator, severe tasks arise due to the fact that bolted connections and fasteners tightly “stick” to each other. Therefore, before work, you need to thoroughly prepare and stock up not only with tools, but also with the popular WD-40 liquid, which allows you to “free” rusted nuts.

Selecting a generator for VAZ 2107

An assistant will be needed to carry out the inspection. Controls the generator output voltage of the regulator relay, which is an electrical circuit. You will need to disassemble the generator and replace the bearings. If the diodes fail, the rectifier unit is replaced with a new one.

Engine compartment lamp.

Main components of the generator Structurally, it consists of the following main elements: Rotor - a moving part that rotates from the engine crankshaft.

How to remove the generator To carry out dismantling you will need the following tools: Spanners 10, 13 and an engine compartment lamp.

It also happens that the wire simply oxidizes and the contact is lost, but this needs to be identified at an early stage, otherwise you won’t be able to go very far with a dead battery.

The stator is the stationary part of the generator and also has a winding.

With the required tension, the deflection should not exceed 10 mm. how to connect generator 2108,2109,21099 to 2101 (classic) part 2.

Article number and cost of the original VAZ 2107 generator and its analogues

The original VAZ 2107 generator has an article number 21013701005 or 2101370300. The cost of the G-221 is in the range of 3500-5200 rubles. At the same time, there are a large number of used units on sale. They are sold at prices starting from 450 rubles.

G-221 is a very good and reliable unit with high maintainability. It is capable of delivering only 42 A, which was enough for standard equipment. The installation of acoustic systems, heating and other electricity consumers led to an increased load on the unit.

Because of this, the battery is often undercharged, which negatively affects its service life. Therefore, owners purchase more powerful generators from third-party manufacturers. The best analogues for G-221 are presented in the table below.

Table - Well-proven alternatives to the original VAZ 2107 generator

Manufacturer Article number of the generator Approximate cost, ruble

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Removal and installation

Before dismantling, you will need to prepare all the necessary tools:

• Keys 10, 17, 19;
• Set of heads;
• Ratchet;
• Mount;

• Hammer and punch.

It is also advisable to stock up on any liquid wrench or rust converter. It is recommended to use a new generator mounting screw; often, when removing the part, the thread is damaged.

Before work, be sure to put the car on the handbrake. Also turn off the power to the generator. To do this, remove the negative terminal from the battery. Then you can begin work on replacing the generator:

First, remove the chips from the generator. The wire to terminal “30” is secured with a nut; unscrew it using a 10-mm open-end wrench;

Malfunctions

The main malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 generator include:

• brush wear;
• failure of the diode bridge (rectifier unit);
• failure of rotor bearings;
• short circuit in the excitation winding;
• break or short circuit in the stator winding.

Signs of a faulty generator are:

• no indicator light on the dashboard comes on;
• the voltmeter needle is in the red zone;
• sparking inside the generator;
• noise during operation (hum or howl);
• smoke and burning smell coming from the generator.

Capacitor check

The capacitor serves to protect the vehicle's electronic equipment from voltage surges in the ignition system, as well as to reduce interference with radio reception. Damage to the capacitor or loosening of its fastening on the generator (deterioration of contact with the housing) is detected by an increase in interference to radio reception when the engine is running.

Approximately the serviceability of the capacitor can be checked with a megger or tester (on a scale of 1-10 MOhm). If there is no break in the capacitor, then at the moment the probes of the device are connected to the terminals of the capacitor, the arrow should deviate in the direction of decreasing resistance, and then gradually return back. Capacitor capacity 2.2 µF±20%.

Replacing a VAZ 2107 generator with your own hands

Replacing a generator set is required in cases where the device no longer produces the required amount of current for consumer systems. The most common reasons for replacing an installation are the following malfunctions and breakdowns:

• burnt winding;
• interturn short circuit;
• deformation of the generator housing;
• resource development.

It is almost always easier and more profitable to replace the generator with a new one than to repair it.

Most often, generator sets fail due to short circuits and severe wear of the windings.
If you do not want to overpay for the work of installing a new generator, you can install it yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated in this procedure.

Required tools:

• a socket wrench with a “cardan” for 17 (for models 372.3701) or the same for 13 (for models 9412.3701);
• socket wrench 19;
• 10mm socket wrench.

Tool preparation

To dismantle and subsequently install the generator on a VAZ 2107, you will need a standard set of tools, which every driver usually has in his garage:

• wrench 10;
• wrench 17;
• wrench 19;
• a pry bar or a special shovel for installation work.

No other devices or devices are required.

Work order

1. Place the car on an overpass or car inspection pit and secure it with the parking brake.
2. Raise the hood, disconnect the ground wire from the battery.
3. For easy access to the generator mounts, remove the battery using a 10 mm wrench;
4. Using a 17 or 13 socket wrench (depending on the model), unscrew the nut securing the generator to the adjusting bar.

5. Go down into the inspection hole and remove the engine protection.
6. Remove the alternator belt from its pulley.

7. Disconnect the wire block from the generator contacts.
8. Move aside the rubber protective cap and, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ends of the electrical wires to the “positive” terminal of the generator connected to the corresponding battery terminal.
9. Using a 19mm socket wrench, unscrew the nut securing the generator stator to the cylinder block bracket.
10. Remove the retaining bolt and remove the generator from the bottom of the engine compartment.
11. Install the new generator in place.
12. Place the belt on its pulley, as well as on the water pump and crankshaft pulleys.
13. Secure the generator and attach the engine protection.

How to remove a VAZ 2107 generator

The VAZ 2107 generator is located in a rather inconvenient place. To make it easier to access, it is better to carry out work on a lift or pit. Before starting work, it is necessary to de-energize the vehicle's electrical systems by disconnecting the battery terminals. Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

1. Remove the engine protection and the right front fender liner.
2. Disconnect the wires from the generator (you must remember how they were connected.
3. Loosen the nut holding the generator and remove the belt from it.
4. Unscrew the nut from the bolt securing the generator to the bracket. If it is rusty, use WD-40.
5. Remove the mounting bolt. If it does not come out, it must be treated with WD-40 and carefully knocked out.
6. Remove the generator.

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If, despite your efforts, you cannot disconnect the generator from the bracket, you will have to remove it along with it. To do this, you need to unscrew 2 (or, depending on the design, 3 bolts) securing the bracket to the engine.

Next, in order to ensure the removal of the VAZ 2107 generator along with the bracket, you will have to move the radiator. There is no need to drain the antifreeze, disconnect the pipes and remove the radiator from the car. It is enough to unscrew its fastenings and move it, providing free access to the bracket and generator.

When removing the generator, you can do without an inspection hole or lift by removing the generator through the wheel arch. This method is only suitable if the bolts and nuts are not rusty and it is possible to remove the generator without a mounting bracket.

How to install a VAZ 2107 radiator

Installing the generator is not particularly difficult, since there is no need to deal with rusted bolted connections. The procedure for installation is the reverse of removal. After installing the generator, you need to install the belt and tension it. If you tighten it too loosely, the belt will slip when the generator is loaded, producing a characteristic whistle. Excessive belt tension will cause premature wear of the alternator bearing. It is easy to check the correct belt tension: it must be turned by hand along the longitudinal axis by 90 degrees. If the angle is smaller, the belt will be tightened. If more, it is weakened.

After installing the generator, connecting the wires to it and tensioning the belt, you can connect the battery terminals.

Everything is ready for testing. You can start the engine. The functionality of the generator can be checked with a voltmeter by measuring the voltage on the battery. When the car engine is running, the on-board voltage should be 14 volts.

Node diagnostics

The functionality of the generator unit is checked using a tester - a multimeter.

How to check the unit yourself:

1. First, the tester must be configured in the diagnostic mode for measuring DC voltage. After setting, you need to check the operating parameters of the car battery. In accordance with technical regulations, the voltage level at the terminals should vary around 11.9-12.6 volts. A slight deviation from these limits downwards is allowed, but only in this case if the car uses more energy consumers.
2. The verification operation must be performed with an assistant. When the assistant starts the engine, you also need to check the voltage. If the diagnostics show a decrease in this parameter, then this indicates that the unit has either failed or is not functioning correctly. This means that one of its components must be replaced.
3. If the voltage value exceeds 14.5 volts, and the parameter does not decrease, this can lead to boiling of the electrolyte solution in the battery (video published by the Auto Electrician HF channel).

Alternator belt VAZ 2107

Quite often the belt on a generator breaks or becomes deformed (stretched), so it is very important to know how you can replace it yourself in any situation, even an emergency.

Alternator belt sizes

All parts used in the design of the car must have markings and manufacturer numbers. Design numbers and sizes of belts for the VAZ 2107 are specified in the operational documents for this model:

• 2101–1308020 (smooth surface), dimensions - 10.0x8.0x944.0 mm;
• 2107–1308020 (toothed surface), dimensions - 10.7x8.0x944.0 m.

How to properly tension the belt on the generator

When installing a generator on a VAZ 2107 yourself, the most difficult moment is considered to be proper belt tension. After all, it is through the belt that the generator mechanism will be launched, therefore, any errors and miscalculations when tensioning the rubber product will affect the performance of the car.

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The belt tension is performed as follows:

1. Place the new generator in its regular place, placing it on the studs.
2. Tighten the fixing nuts only halfway, without over-tightening.
3. Use a pry bar to install into the gap formed between the generator wall and the pump. Secure the mount in this position.
4. Place the new belt on the alternator pulley.
5. Hold the pry bar and begin tensioning the belt.
6. Tighten the fixing nut in the upper part of the mounting of the generator unit housing.
7. Afterwards, carry out a preliminary diagnosis of the degree of tension - the rubber product should not sag downward much.
8. Tighten the lower stud nut until it ends without overtightening.

The diagram shows places for checking the tension quality.
Next, the quality of the belt tension is checked. Using two fingers, press firmly on the free part of the belt and measure the existing deflection. Normal sagging should not be more than 1.5 centimeters.

The service life of a typical belt for a VAZ 2107 generator is usually 80 thousand kilometers. However, it is recommended to change the belt drive earlier if the generator set is being replaced.

Thus, the generator on the “seven” can be replaced with your own hands, but you must adhere to strict rules and observe safety precautions. If you have problems with the operation of the motor after replacing the device yourself, it is better to contact a professional.

Instructions.

1. Remove the entire crankcase protection: the mudguard, as well as the so-called “ski”, after first blowing out all the fastening bolts and nuts with a WD tool.

1. Unscrew the nut of the lower mounting of the generator. If you have problems with this, again spray it with WD, wait a little and try again.

1. Move from under the bottom of the car to its engine compartment, remove the battery and, using a 17mm wrench and socket, loosen the alternator belt tensioner nut.

1. Go under the car again and slide the generator towards the engine.

1. Remove the belt from the generator pulley and inspect it for integrity.

1. Unscrew and remove all terminals, “chips”, etc. wires connected to the generator.

1. Spray the alternator mounting bolt with WD-40 type lubricant. To avoid damaging the thread, screw a nut onto it and tap it with a hammer to knock the bolt out of its seat. Then unscrew the nut and, using any convenient tool at hand (a pry bar, wrench, iron screwdriver, etc.) into its head and a hammer, knock it out completely. It is recommended to hold the generator with your other hand so that it does not accidentally fall out.
2. Once the bolt is removed, use a gentle rocking and turning motion to remove the generator.

For reference: before removing the generator on a VAZ 2107 , the car should be driven into a pit or overpass. This will make dismantling work much more convenient.

Generator repair

Generator repair should begin with identifying the fault. To do this, it is recommended to disassemble the unit. The pulley is unscrewed first.

Unscrewing the pulley

After removing the pulley, the generator should be halved.

Disassembly process

Defects of each element should begin with a visual inspection.

Components of the VAZ 2107 generator

If there are extraneous sounds and jamming of the shaft, special attention should be paid to the bearings.

Removing the plate that hides the bearing

New bearings

Pressing in the bearing

The weak point of the generator is the brushes and slip rings. If there is damage or signs of heavy wear, they must be replaced.

Brushes

Slip rings

The diode rectifier test is shown in the image below.

Tools you will need:

1. A universal puller for removing the bearing; as an option, you can use a rod puller, but I warn you, this is very inconvenient;
2. Also find a good metal brush and a cloth-based sandpaper;
3. Hammer;
4. WD-40;
5. Standard set of wrenches and screwdrivers.

This is what the VAZ 2101 generator looked like before repair, remember it like this, because after the overhaul it will change beyond recognition

1. First of all, you need to clean the generator from dirt, dust, oil, in short, from everything that has accumulated on it over many years of operation.

2. Unscrew the pulley nut; to do this, place the generator so that its pulley rests on the floor, then put a key on the nut at “19”. While holding the pulley against turning it, you need to apply several strong and precise blows to the key with a hammer. It is unlikely that you will be able to clamp the pulley “tightly” by hand, but this will be enough to “break” the nut and unscrew it freely.

3. Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the four bolts of the tie rods that assemble the generator into one unit.

4. Take a chisel and knock out the key (see photo above), to do this you need to install the generator so that the shaft is on top. Place a chisel on the key and begin to knock it out by hitting the chisel with a hammer. 5. After the key is knocked out, remove the front cover of the generator. If things get tough, try punching by weight.

6. Now remove the relay regulator from the generator.

7. Using the hole for the relay, knock out the rotor; you can use a drift to do this. While knocking out, constantly rotate the rotor so that it does not warp.

8. Using the socket on “8”, unscrew the three fastening nuts of the stator, as well as the diode bridge

Here you need to pay attention to the bolts; if they turn, hold them with pliers on the reverse side

9. It's time to remove the stator; before doing this, I treated the joints with WD-40. When everything has become a little sour, we arm ourselves with a hammer again and begin to knock it out. During execution, be extremely careful and careful not to damage anything. When the stator is removed, you need to remove the diode bridge. Unscrew the condenser and press out the rear rotor bearing using the universal puller mentioned at the beginning of the article.

10. Now unscrew the front cover and tension plates. The locked bolts that are installed there can be damaged, so at the beginning it was not in vain that I mentioned that you need to buy four “8” nuts. To prevent the bolts from turning when unscrewing, tighten them with pliers on the other side.

11. Remove the plates, then press the bearing through the mandrel.

As you can see, the VAZ 2101 generator is now completely disassembled, now everything needs to be cleaned, washed, scraped off, etc. I won’t go into details, because I think it’s already clear how to do this. You will need a metal brush, sandpaper and a knife.

Please note that since 1996, the location of pin 61 has changed. My old “old model” diode bridge, the differences are clearly visible in the photo, on the old one the contact is located on the wire, and on the new one it is soldered into the diode bridge

My old diode bridge is “old model”, the differences are clearly visible in the photo, on the old one the contact is located on the wire, and on the new one it is soldered into the diode bridge.

Connection diagram

The connection diagram for the VAZ 2107 generator is shown in the photo:

Wiring diagram for VAZ 2107 generator circuits

On the generator connection diagram 37.3701: 1 – battery, 2,3,5 – rectifier diodes, 4 – generator assembly, 6 – stator winding, 7 – charge relay, 8 – rotor winding, 9 – capacitor, 10 – fuses, 11 - indicator lamp, 12 - voltage meter, 13 - relay, 14 - lock.

If the output parameters are monitored and they do not correspond to normal values, a decision is made to dismantle and repair the generator