You often come across such a problem on a VAZ 2108-2109, when when the car is moving you hear a rather unpleasant hum from the rear axle, which most likely indicates the need to replace the rear wheel bearing. This procedure is not easy, but still, having everything you need at hand, you can do it in the garage without going to a service station. So, to replace the rear wheel bearing you will need the following tool:
- Small wooden block
- Hammer
- Ratchet or crank
- Socket heads for 7 mm and 30 mm
- Extension cord or pipe to size
- Circlip pliers
- Vise
- Puller with rotating jaws
The procedure for dismantling the bearing on a VAZ 2109 - 2108
To get started, you need to do the following:
- Remove the dust cap and remove the hub nut
- Raise the car with a jack and remove the rear wheel
- Removing the brake drum
Next, you can unscrew the hub nut to the very end using a suitable wrench and socket:
Then remove the nut. Then we install a special puller with rotary grips, and by twisting its rod, we thereby pull the hub itself off the axle shaft, as is clearly demonstrated in the photo below:
The result is approximately the following.
Now we clamp the hub in a vice and remove the retaining ring from the inside using pliers.
After this, we turn the hub over and, using a suitable spacer and a hammer, knock the bearing out:
The final result of the work done can be seen in the photo below:
Features of choice
When buying a rear wheel bearing for a VAZ-2108, pay attention to the manufacturer. Currently, more or less high-quality domestic parts are produced by the following enterprises:
- SPZ (Saratov Bearing Plant);
- SPZ-4 (Samara);
- VBF (GPZ-23, Vologda);
- GPZ-20 (Kursk).
It is believed that the best domestic manufacturer of bearings is the Saratov plant. His products are very reliable, but not very expensive. Thus, a rear wheel bearing for a VAZ-2108 manufactured by SPZ costs between 400-450 rubles.
VBF products are also highly reliable and are slightly cheaper. Bearings SPZ-4 and GPZ-20 are designed for those who are used to saving on spare parts. Their cost is even less, but the quality leaves much to be desired.
There are also imported analogues on sale. They are, of course, expensive, but their quality is beyond doubt. For example, a SKF VAZ 2108 rear wheel bearing, produced in Sweden, costs about 900 rubles. The Japanese equivalent, NSK, will cost about the same.
Installation of a new wheel bearing on a VAZ 2109 - 2108
We take a new bearing and lubricate its race, as well as the inner surface of the hub, with lithol-type lubricant:
Now carefully position the new bearing and press it into place.
This should be done very carefully to avoid distortions and excessive effort. You can do this by positioning a wooden block and gently hitting it in the center with a hammer:
And then hammer it all the way in with the same spacer that was used when removing it. It is necessary to press in until a recess appears for the retaining ring; accordingly, we put it in place, squeezing it with pliers:
Next, lubricate the inside of the bearing race, the axle shaft itself, and put on the hub. First, you can try to stuff it with your hands, but it is best to do this using a tool and hit it on the inner race of the bearing. The photo below shows an arrow:
Install all remaining parts in reverse order.
How to determine suspension and hub faults
A sign of replacing the hub on a VAZ 2109 may be loud noise or knocking while driving. But this is an unreliable source, since there can be several reasons for the knocking: the handbrake bars, brake pads, and silent blocks of the rear pillars can also knock. It's hard to guess.
To be more precise, you need to take a jack, lift, twist, wobble and check. The wheel bearing usually does not knock, but it can produce a hum and vibration on the body. A knock, and quite a strong one, will be made only by a bearing that requires replacement. Therefore, it is not always necessary to replace the rear hub of VAZ 2108 and 2109.
to check the condition of the bearing - use a jack to lift the required side, twist and wobble the wheel; if there is a hum, the bearing must be replaced. If there is play, check the tightness of the hub nut and wheel bolts.
It is not allowed to eliminate play in wheel hub bearings by excessively tightening the nuts. The tightening torque of the front and rear hub nuts should be: rear wheel hub bearing nut 186.3-225.6 (19-23) N*m (kgf*m), front wheel hub bearing nut 225.6-247.2 ( 23-25.2) N*m (kgf*m).
Next, we remove the wheel and use a meter to check the runout of the hub; if the runout of the working surfaces of the hub is more than 1.5 mm , the hub needs to be replaced.
When replacing a wheel bearing, be sure to inspect the hub; if the new bearing is installed on it very easily, then such a hub must be replaced with a new one , otherwise it will dangle. And, despite replacing the bearing, it provokes vibration and knocking.
The front and rear wheel hubs use double-row ball bearings with seals that do not require lubrication and adjustment during operation.
When pressing out the wheel hubs, the bearings are destroyed. Therefore, pressing out the hubs should be carried out only in cases of increased bearing noise or a significant increase in the gap in them: more than 0.015 mm in the front and more than 0.030 in the rear.
Structure
The part has a fairly simple structure. Essential elements:
- outer rim (used for screwing in bolts);
- internal part (for bearings);
- holes with slots (for CV joint);
- protective caps;
- sensor (it is sometimes included in the design).
CV joints are constant velocity joints; their main task is to transmit torque.
Hubs for different purposes have different technical characteristics. Hubs for passenger cars have the form of a hollow, lightweight cylinder, while for “heavyweights” the diameter of the part is larger.
Preparation for repair
All work must be carried out on an inspection pit or overpass. But if you do not have such amenities, you will have to hang the rear of the car so that it is above the ground. The procedure for carrying out preparatory work:
- Place the car on a level surface.
- Place blocks under the front wheels.
- Turn on first speed.
- Loosen the nut that tightens the handbrake actuator (optional).
Causes of problems
The hub is a very durable part of a car disk, so breakdowns rarely occur. But still sometimes deformation of the spare part occurs. In addition, the rear hub is more wear-resistant than the front hub, since it is less subject to heavy loads.
"Road factors"
Ingress of moisture and dust eventually displaces the lubricant, and the disc begins to overheat as a result of excess friction.
Insufficient lubrication
It ranks first among the causes of failure of this spare part.
Excessive loads
In the average area this is unlikely. Usually found in mountainous areas.
Strong “tightening” of fasteners
It often happens that the bolts are screwed in more than necessary - this is how the threads wear out.
What tools will you need?
Before you begin repair work, make sure you have the necessary tools and supplies:
- wheel chocks;
- jack;
- wheel bolt wrench;
- chisel (core);
- some object to fix the position of the car body when jacking up (a stump, several bricks, etc.);
- hammer;
- spacer made of wood (block);
- head at “30” with an extended handle;
- key to "7";
- vice;
- a piece of pipe for the outer diameter of the bearing;
- long nose pliers;
- special puller for the hub;
- special pliers for retaining rings;
- anti-rust liquid.
If you decide to change the rear wheel hub bearing on a VAZ-2108, also replace the hub nut. At least that's what the car manufacturer recommends. The fact is that the nut has a special edge that bends during installation and gets knocked down during disassembly.
When to replace
The rear wheel bearing should be changed no later than every 100 thousand kilometers. But the realities of our roads and the quality of products are such that in fact the service life of the element is noticeably less than the specified period.
Practice shows that it is necessary to change the spare parts every 50-60 thousand kilometers, and in some cases even more often. It is best to focus not on mileage, but on signs of wear.
Symptoms of a problem
The car itself will tell you that it’s time to change the air conditioner by displaying the following signs:
- There is a noise, a strong hum or knocking sound in the rear of the car when driving;
- Play is detected in the bearing.
Checking status
If one of the symptoms appears on your VAZ 2109, you must lift the rear wheels one by one and make sure whether the problem is really in the bearings. For this:
- Lift the wheels and spin each one by hand;
- Listen to whether any extraneous sounds appear when the wheel spins;
- If you hear a characteristic hum, this indicates wear on the wheel bearing;
- Check the assembly for play. The wheels must be hung;
- Firmly grasp the top of the wheel and pull away from you and towards you;
- If the bearing is in good condition, the wheel will not move, that is, play;
- If there is a build-up, then you will have to replace the spare parts.
Diagnostics, signs of malfunction, causes of failure
With proper operation, the ball bearing itself can last a really long time - about 100,000 kilometers. However, there are a number of reasons why a part may become unusable much earlier. Among them:
- frequent driving at high speed on bad roads;
- improper installation without lubrication (resulting in overheating and increased wear);
- prolonged exposure to an aggressive environment (water, dirt, other abrasives or liquids that get inside);
It is easy to understand that the ball bearing has failed - a distinct noise or buzz appears in the area of the rear wheels. If you ignore the problem, vibrations will appear on the body, and in critical cases, a grinding noise in the rear, indicating that the assembly has simply fallen apart. It is simply unacceptable to wait any longer - the wheel may simply become blocked while driving, so it is necessary to immediately replace it.
