Suspension bearing of the propeller shaft VAZ 2107 (2105, 2106, 2101) - replacement with photos and videos

Adjusting the wheel bearing on a VAZ 2107

You can correctly tighten the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107 as follows:

If play and noise cannot be eliminated in this way, the bearing must be replaced.

The replacement procedure is quite simple. To replace the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing, you will need:

The work is carried out on a lift or after raising the front wheel with a jack.

• lift the car on a lift or “hang” the wheel using a jack;
• Unscrew the wheel mounting bolts;
• remove the wheel;
• unscrew the caliper mounting bolts;

Tips for replacing a wheel bearing

Timely elimination of play is a guarantee of long bearing service.

Welcome, friends, to the DIY car repair website. While driving your car, noise occurs in the front part of the suspension, a hum, sometimes even a whistle, this indicates that the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing most likely needs to be replaced.

In the front hub of the VAZ 2107 there is a pair of roller bearings, one internal, and the other, of course, external.

How to check a wheel bearing

• Jack up the car so that the wheel rotates freely.
• We place the stand under the threshold of the car.
• When the wheel rocks in different planes, a knocking noise occurs; it could be a bearing, a ball joint, or possibly a steering linkage, so let’s check further.
• We turn the wheel by hand; when noise appears, it will immediately become clear to you that the bearing needs to be replaced.

In the same way as described above, we check the other side of your vehicle, since most likely the hub bearings have worn out there too.

Diagnostics - causes and symptoms of malfunction

The condition of a wheel bearing is assessed based on a number of factors. The main signs of a node malfunction include:

1. noticeable wheel play;
2. hum, rustle, crunch from a spinning wheel;
3. the suspended axis rotates unevenly, there is wedging;
4. excessive heating of the disk;
5. increased noise when cornering.

The main reason for replacing a wheel bearing is due to normal wear and tear. The gap increases and eventually stops responding to adjustment.

How to check the wheel bearing of a VAZ-2107:

How to determine front wheel bearing wear: vazoved

I drive a LADA VESTA CROSS, Moscow

Then there will simply be no one to pay the fines! This is a Korean tablet video recorder 15 in 1 for Android..

I forgot about fines and Yandex Navigator.

There is FULL HD shooting, radar detector and GPS with 32 satellites. I got it at a reasonable price for such great functionality: HERE

Other causes of failure:

1. wheel impacts;
2. technological violations during the previous replacement;
3. entry of foreign particles into the separator cavity (dust, dirt, metal shavings);
4. aggressive driving style.

If at least one malfunction is detected, it is necessary to replace the parts. Continued operation of the vehicle is dangerous.

Instructions for replacing the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing

Replacing the front wheel bearings, as recommended by the manufacturer, should only be done in pairs.

We jack up the car, be sure to place some kind of stand under the body to avoid an accident, unscrew and remove the wheel.

Next, you need to remove the caliper; to do this, you need to unpin the two bolts on which it is attached and unscrew them. To prevent the caliper from dangling and getting in the way, tie it to the lever.

Then you need to remove the cap that covers the hub nut. We unscrew the nut (on the left side there is a left-hand thread, on the right side there is a right-hand thread), remove the lock washer and pull out the outer bearing.

Assembly of the front hub of a VAZ 2107 car

Now that the old clips have been knocked out, you need to rinse the inside of the hub and you can start pressing in the new clips.

You can press in the clips either in a vice or hammer them in using a special mandrel or a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter; this is not at all difficult.

Then we fill the hub with new grease, lubricate the inner bearing and insert it, then install the split spacer ring and press in the new oil seal.

Next, we fasten the brake disc and install the hub on the steering knuckle axle, insert a new outer bearing, lock washer, tighten the nut, install the caliper and wheel. In general, we do everything in reverse order.

If there are no special tools, we tighten the bearing as follows: tighten the nut until it stops (pull within reasonable limits) and release it 2/3 of a turn and rotate the wheel. We check the backlash (thermal gap).

The wheel should rotate easily, and the play should be barely noticeable when the wheel rocks. There is absolutely no way to overtighten, it’s better to just miss it. We cotter the nut and put on a decorative cap.

At this point the repair is considered complete. Have a good trip and no breakdowns.

The wheel bearing is an important part that is present in every car. The domestic car VAZ-2107 is also equipped with both front and rear wheel bearings. Failure of the front wheel bearing can lead to the most unpredictable consequences: from rapid tire wear to problems with the braking system. There is one way to avoid such consequences - timely diagnostics of the car, adjustment and replacement of worn-out wheel bearings. What is replacing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ-2107, we will find out in this material.

To hammer a groove on the nut, you do not need to lower the wheel to the ground, since the blow goes to the nut and does not put a load on the bearing, and if you lower it, you will just hit the bearing. And a new cap must be installed since it should not let water through and is almost disposable. And there is no need to remove the wheel when adjusting, since the cap can be removed even if there is no wild cap. Don’t write heresy - it is read by sheep who then prove that they are smart.

Denis Reply: October 15th, 2016 at 11:56

and you apparently consider yourself very smart)) Everything here is written to the point, and not everyone has a new cap on hand, and sometimes there isn’t even a new nut. If you don't beat like crazy with a hammer, then in most cases you can use the old cap (there were no holes in it). Of course, a new nut is better, but you can also lock the old one (if the problem is discovered in the wilderness - there is nowhere to buy a new one) - simply lock it on another section of the shoulder.

Yes, I consider myself smart. And I have a diploma as a car mechanic. And the wheel is not removed when adjusting the bearing.

Denis Reply: October 17th, 2016 at 12:57

well - this is 100%) - when adjusting the hub bearing, the wheel must be dressed - because with it it is much easier to feel the play than when it is not there. You were right that the wheel does not need to be removed at all; - it’s faster. BUT - if the person is not experienced - there is a point in removing the wheel - this way the picture is visible better, and knocking out the cap may be more convenient.

In principle, there is nothing to write here and everything has been chewed up a long time ago in all the literature on how to regulate. But there is one caveat. When you tighten it for the first time (with a force of 2 kg*m, this is about 2 edges), the bearings wedge and the internal races on the trunnion rotate and the adjustment itself loses its meaning. The outer races are pressed in with good tension. The internal ones sit relatively freely on the trunnion (internal gap 0 - 0.023 mm, external -0.005 - 0.028 mm). When I started driving on a cold car, everything was fine. After some time, a slight “whistle” appeared. I couldn't figure out what was whistling there. I re-adjusted the wheel bearings and the wheels spin freely. It just started whistling on the other side))) When I started rebuilding the suspension in the fall (the car has been sitting in the garage for who knows how long, I don’t have time...) I think I’ll rebuild the hubs. I spin it by hand and everything is fine. I untwisted it with something like a drill and voila it whistled! I'm sorting it out. There aren’t really any signs of wear (I recently changed the bearings). Only the inner races spin on the axle if you press slightly on the outer race. I'm measuring the axle. I thought they were worn out. So there is wear beyond the lower limit. I was going to buy new trunnions, but there are no factory ones anywhere... The neighbor gave me away from the four. Almost new. So the trunnions there are practically the same in size. Measured with a micrometer. ABC sizes: 19.055-19.035 and 25.977-25.990. Accordingly, the dimensions ran away from the lower limit by 0.01-0.02 (there was radial runout). Well, it’s the same on the “new” ones. This means they are wasting the dimensions at the factory... Spraying or chrome-plating these seating surfaces for Lada cars is somehow extreme))) Moreover, there is nowhere) I decided to insert a conical elastic bushing between the inner races. It could shrink by 0.2 mm without deformation. This is later necessary for adjustment; the bearing must first be pressed.

Bearing Failure Determination

Some recommendations will help you make sure that you need to replace the wheel bearing on your VAZ-2107:

• The easiest way to determine the need to replace the hub unit is to grab the front wheel and wiggle it in different planes. If you feel the presence of play, then it’s time for a more detailed diagnosis and most likely replacing the bearings.
• The front wheels of the car should be hung on a jack, while being sure to take precautions: pull the handbrake, install shoes and additional stands under the car. Grasp the top and bottom of the front wheel with your hands and then make movements. It is important to wobble the wheel, and not the car as a whole. Thus, you can accurately determine whether the product in question needs to be replaced.
• Another way to determine the need for replacement is to listen for humming, knocking, and grinding noises in the wheel as it rotates.

Checking the hub

Set the car to the handbrake and lift it with a jack, grab the top and bottom of the wheel, and rock it in different directions. There should be no backlash or knocking.

Spin the wheel; no extraneous sounds should be heard during free rotation. The wheel should rotate smoothly without difficulty. If play, knocking or irregular rotation accompanied by a crunching sound is detected, it is necessary to replace the bearings.

Before proceeding with the replacement, you need to purchase in advance the spare parts that will be needed during the repair:

• bearings, internal and external;
• stuffing box;
• new lubricant;

Diagnostics

To determine whether the VAZ 2107 front wheel bearing needs to be replaced or not, you need to:

• jack up the car;
• place a stop on the lower lever and lower the vehicle (this is done in order to prevent rocking in the silent blocks);
• It is better to grab the wheel from above and below and rock it.

In this case, there should be no backlash. After spinning the wheel, repeat the operation. Spin the wheel; no noise should appear when it rotates. If there is no play, but noise appears, then the bearings definitely need to be changed.

Adjustment

After replacing the front wheel bearings of a VAZ 2107 during maintenance or the appearance of noise, adjustment begins as during diagnostics by “hanging” the wheel. Further:

1. tighten the nut until it stops, but not too much;
2. by rotating the wheel and releasing the nut, we look for a position in which its rotation will be sufficiently free, and there will be no backlash;
3. lock the nut.

However, it must be added that if after tightening the nut the play disappears but there is no noise, then the bearings should also be changed.

Generator repair

First, you need to clean the generator from dirt, oil, dust and everything that has accumulated on it over the entire period of operation.

Unscrew the pulley nut, placing the generator so that the pulley rests on the floor, and then put a 19mm wrench on the nut. While holding the pulley from turning, it is necessary to make several strong and accurate blows on the key. It is unlikely that you will be able to clamp the pulley tightly with your hand, but your efforts may be enough to tear the nut out of place.

Using a 10mm wrench, you need to unscrew the 4 bolts of the tie rods that assemble the generator device into one whole. Using a chisel, knock out the key. This can be done by installing the generator with the shaft up. Place the chisel against the key and start knocking it out with a hammer. Once you have knocked out the key, remove the front cover of the device. If it goes too hard, you need to try to knock it out by weight.

Belt whistles

Often, when a certain malfunction of the VAZ 2107 appears, you can hear an extraneous sound, which allows you to confidently diagnose the problem. One of the malfunctions may be the belt slipping, resulting in a whistle from friction against the pulleys. This problem leads to unstable operation of the generator and lack of battery charge.

How to replace bearings

As in the case of diagnostics, we begin the repair by jacking up the car and removing the wheel. Further:

• unscrew the caliper and hang it so that it does not interfere;

• remove the nut cover on the hub;

• unscrew the nut with a 27 wrench;
• remove the washer;
• remove the hub with the attached brake disc;

• remove the small bearing separator;
• remove the oil seal;
• remove the large bearing separator;
• remove the clips with a puller or knock them out with a hammer and chisel;

• remove old grease from the hub and cap.

We perform assembly in reverse order.

• press in the bearing races;
• lubricate and install the inner bearing separator;
• install the oil seal;
• put the hub in place;
• lubricate the outer bearing separator and install it in place;
• install the pressure washer;
• tighten the nut;
• screw the caliper into place.

At this point, the replacement of the front wheel bearing of the VAZ 2107 is completed and all that remains is to adjust the tightening of the nut, this is done as I already described above.