Suspension bearing of the propeller shaft VAZ 2107 (2105, 2106, 2101) - replacement with photos and videos

Today there are fewer and fewer classic cars on our roads, and over the past few years not a single one has come to me for repairs. Therefore, when a client showed up in the morning with an old seven and offered to replace the crosspieces and suspension, I could not refuse because of the memories that came back.

But this is all rhetoric, and today we have to replace the VAZ 2107 driveshaft crosspiece and, as well as a bunch of outboard bearings, we still have to disassemble. The main signs of wear on the crosspiece are a characteristic loud click when starting, as well as vibration.

Signs of a faulty VAZ 2107 suspension bearing and how to check the driveshaft yourself

The first signs of malfunction and wear of the VAZ 2107 (PP) suspension bearing are vibration and knocking of the cardan when the car begins to move. After accelerating the car, the knocking gradually disappears, turning into vibration and noise. If there were no problems with balancing the axle before, but knocking suddenly appeared, then it is necessary to immediately diagnose the PP.

Diagnosis is performed in the following order:

1. Place the car on an overpass, lift or pit;
2. Locate the driveshaft under the car;

1. Check the play of the PP by moving the part by hand in the axial direction - free movement is not allowed;
2. Rotate the cardan and listen to how the bearing works - vibration, rolling, grinding, knocking are not allowed;
3. Inspect the product body, including the tightness of the bearing seals - lubricant leakage is not allowed;
4. Make sure that the outboard bearing and bracket are not loose;
5. The presented videos show how the VAZ 2101-2107 suspension bearing (injector) hums, as well as how to determine if the intermediate support is faulty.

Video: “How an outboard bearing hums”

Video: “How to check the universal joint support”

Some more useful tips on how to make a successful repair

• protect the bottom of the car from large cobblestones, stones, and crushed stone flying at speed into the driveshaft;
• use the correct lubricant CV joint - 4, FIOL - 2u, paint the cardan. Corrosion protection will allow you to maintain alignment longer;
• check accessible connections and protective brackets more often, tighten connections;
• do not be lazy to check the gaps in the hinges and adjust them in a timely manner;
• Inspecting the coupling quarterly for cracks in the rubber or defects will allow you to replace it, otherwise the entire driveline may fail, and this will be more expensive.
• Regularly lubricate the VAZ 2107 driveline.

— try not to pollute the car too much, do not allow water to get into the middle of the unit;

— if the lubricant has dried out or is missing altogether, apply it in sufficient quantities;

— do not disturb the balancing in the cardan shaft;

- carefully monitor the expiration date;

- make sure that the fasteners do not loosen;

- do not replace parts with low-quality fakes.

Suspended bearing for the VAZ 2107 propeller shaft: dimensions, prices, how to choose, which one to buy

The design of the intermediate support for the propeller shaft VAZ 2101 - VAZ 2107 consists of a closed-type, lubricated, single-row radial ball bearing, which is located inside a housing made of metal and rubber. The ball bearing is secured with a retaining ring. The PCB body has fasteners in the form of a bracket with holes.

Ball bearing marking:

1. according to GOST 6-180605;
2. according to ISO 62305.2RS;
3. Factory (serial or catalog) number of the VAZ 2107 suspension support: 2105-2202078.

It is important to know:

Inspect the old suspension assembly to make sure the ball bearing is working properly. You may not need to replace the support and it will be enough to just change only the bearing, but more often the assembly is changed, and experts also recommend it.

The VAZ 2107 suspension bearing for replacement, the prices of which are presented in the table , is selected based on the recommendations of experienced auto mechanics and service station workers.

Below is a list of preferred manufacturers to purchase parts from. To the question “How much does a suspension bearing for a VAZ 2107 cost?” This table will answer in detail. Pay attention to the photographs of the original repair kits presented in the list.

Cost table for suspension bearing VAZ 2107

Outboard Bearing Size Chart 6-180605 (62305.2RS)

How to properly lubricate the cardan?

We'll tell you about proper lubrication of the driveshaft without removing parts from the car.

First, as usual, we put the VAZ 2107 on the inspection hole, tighten the handbrake, put the gearshift lever in the “neutral gear” position, manually remove dirt and dust from the cardan drive, then check how tight all the available bolts and nuts are and tighten what "dangling"

• You can insert a screwdriver and wiggle it, this way you can determine the play in the hinge bearings. In this case, the part will have to be removed from the car, as described above, and the crosspiece replaced or the O-rings replaced.
• In addition, we grasp the front shaft firmly with one hand and rotate (pump), inspecting the coupling: is there any angular play?
• To lubricate the driveshaft splines, you need to take an 11 mm wrench, unscrew the plug on the coupling flange and take an oiler in which you can supply oil under pressure. Then, using a syringe, squeeze the grease (CV joint - 4, Fiol - 2u) into the splined joint until it “comes out” from under the oil seal, then put the plug in place.

These simple tips will allow you to keep the VAZ 2107 transmission in good condition for a long time, without having to repair the driveshaft.

Spare parts

As for parts and spare parts for the VAZ-2107, it is better to buy a new outboard bearing (propeller shaft support) than a factory-made one.
All this is because there are a lot of low-quality products on sale now, and buying a factory suspension bearing from a VAZ will help avoid getting a pig in a poke. To get a factory part, you just need to contact the sellers who sell goods from the manufacturer. Finding such a person is not difficult, you just need to try. In order for the part to function well in the future on your VAZ-2107, when purchasing the selected outboard bearing, you should check its movement, that is, the movement of the outboard bearing must be smooth with elastic adjacent rubber. Rotating the outboard bearing from its hooks is a bad sign, and it is better not to take such a part. Otherwise, the cost of your negligence will result in unpleasant noise in the cabin of the VAZ-2107.

In the case when a replacement is necessary, but you do not have experience in such matters, you should take care of purchasing one cross with an outboard bearing already present. The purchase will be made with the intention that when a replacement is made, one crosspiece will need to be removed and it may be damaged.

If you don’t have to replace the entire propeller shaft support, for example, because only the outboard bearing was broken, and it’s a pity to throw away the rubber, then only the bearing is bought and replaced.

To do this you will need:

⦁ remove the support ring;

⦁ knock out the old bearing;

⦁ carefully hammer in a new one.

And it is advisable to purchase retaining rings, since old ones are often deformed or even broken. In addition, it makes sense to buy bolts, nuts, etc., the old ones may already be “licked”. Replacing parts will be much more convenient in a viewing hole or overpass, and for convenience, one of the rear wheels should be jacked up.

So, to begin with:

⦁ it is necessary to unscrew the cardan shaft. Using a 13mm wrench, remove the bearing mount that secures it to the transverse support (a pair of bolts);

⦁ now unscrew the nuts with which it is attached to the shank.

To further avoid vibration of the cardan and its beating on your VAZ-2107, it is best to place marks on all joints of the cardan before removal. And assembling according to your marks will save you from such unpleasant moments. A chisel can be useful when placing marks.

⦁ it is more convenient to remove all available retaining rings using round pliers with a bend;

⦁ knock out the cup of the cross with a hammer;

⦁ turning over the cardan shaft, take out the cup;

⦁ knock out the next cup and the remaining ones;

⦁ we clean all the recesses and everything else from dirt and rust.

⦁ it is necessary to remove two bowls on both sides of the cross;

⦁ the crosspiece must be placed in the eyes;

⦁ put on the cup, to do this you should move everything to one side;

⦁ Next, you should push the cup until a groove for the retaining ring appears;

⦁ install the retaining ring;

⦁ now, having turned the cardan over, you need to direct the cross towards the cup, put it on, also until the groove appears;

⦁ install the retaining ring.

Assembling the second part may be a little more difficult:

⦁ after removing the crosspiece, it is necessary to insert the splined end of the cardan shaft into the flange of the elastic coupling;

⦁ using a 27 wrench from the opposite end, unscrew the fastening of the fork to the front shaft;

⦁ it is necessary to tighten the hinge fork using a puller;

⦁ remove the suspension bearing from the shaft.

When removing the bearing, you can simply try to knock it down.

This is where the replacement for the VAZ-2107 ends, but the assembly is done directly in the reverse order.

Replacing the gearbox bearing

First, to carry out the replacement, the gearbox is removed. Next, you will need to completely or partially disassemble the box. To remove the box basket, you must first disconnect the negative wire of the car's electrical system and disconnect the speedometer sensor. In any case, you will have to disconnect the exhaust pipe (“pants”) of the exhaust gas system. Next, the wizard performs the operations described below.

The box is well cleaned of dirt, its body is checked for defects. The bearing on the shaft is secured with additional retaining rings. The master carefully pries out and unclenches the rings using a flat screwdriver. Among the list of special auto repair tools there is also tweezers for removing retaining rings. Next, you need to pry off the bearing with a screwdriver, while the shaft moves forward. A thin pry bar is inserted between the bearing and the box and the mechanic begins the operation of removing the gearbox input shaft bearing. The bearing is pressed in and needs to be knocked out - with precise, careful and, at the same time, strong blows. In this case, the shaft must rotate. This entire operation is performed by a master with the help of an assistant and can take quite a lot of time, usually up to 30 minutes. Also, the workshop can use a special puller for such cases.

Before replacing the old input shaft bearing, it must be carefully prepared. Preparation involves thorough lubrication. To press the bearing in, you can use a pipe of a suitable diameter or special tools. The worker drives the part into its proper place with precise, uniform and neat blows. After the technician makes sure that the bearing is seated properly (the shaft should rotate lightly and smoothly), the box is assembled in the reverse order and installed back on the car.

The bearing does not always need to be changed; sometimes you can simply lubricate it well. A gearbox is a vehicle component that operates constantly. That is, the smear on the bearing “burns” quite intensely. The reason for the “disappearance” of the lubricant, according to many car owners, is also the synthetic oil poured into the gearbox - it is this that “corrodes” and “washes” the lubricant out of the bearing.

There is no need to rush into purchasing this part (as with purchasing any parts). Its price is low, VAZ bearings cost about 300-500 rubles (you can find them cheaper in advertisements) and that is why purchasing can be difficult. Current traders and manufacturers prefer to sell cheap parts as “repair kits”. The most important thing is what was mentioned at the beginning of the article - the only sign of complete destruction of the bearing is jamming and knocking. If a “whistle” is heard, then most likely it will be enough for you to simply lubricate the part.

Summarize

Now we can safely state that the replacement process is complete. As it turned out, the work did not cause any difficulties, but it did require stocking up on some special tools. Buy bearings for LADA Granta cars that are of only high quality and from trusted manufacturers in order to have confidence in your safety on the road.

A wheel bearing malfunction is a common failure during the operation of a technical device. The reason for premature wear is poor-quality road surface and aggressive driving style.

Front wheel bearing

Replacing a wheel bearing is done independently, without special equipment, experience, or skills. Subject to the availability of spare parts, the replacement process will take no more than an hour, without the cost of car service.

What is a gearbox bearing?

Gearbox bearing (gearbox bearing) is a part of the gearbox of automotive equipment; a rolling bearing of one design or another, acting as supports for gearbox shafts and gears.

In a gearbox, depending on its type, number of gears, method of transmitting torque between elements and design, from 4 to 12 or more bearings of various types can be used. Bearings solve several problems:

• Performing support functions for all or only individual shafts (in most cases - two supports for all shafts, in some boxes there are simpler or more complex schemes - one support for the primary shaft, three supports for the secondary shaft, etc.);
• Acting as a support for gears mounted on the secondary shaft (in gearboxes with synchronized gears and gears freely rotating on the secondary shaft);
• Reduced friction forces in the bearings of shafts and gears (reduced torque losses in the transmission, reduced heating of its parts).

The use of bearings ensures the correct installation of the moving components of the gearbox and greatly reduces the friction forces arising between these parts. The operation of the gearbox, its ability to normally transmit and change torque, and generally ensure vehicle controllability, depend on the condition and characteristics of the bearings. Therefore, worn and faulty bearings must be replaced, and in order to make the right choice of these parts, it is necessary to understand their design, types and applicability.

Replacing the front wheel hub bearing

We replace the bearing when it fails. There are two ways to replace a bearing. The first is by removing the steering knuckle assembly, the second is without removing it from the car. The work is shown on the right wheel bearing. The left wheel hub bearing is replaced in the same way. We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass. We remove the wheel.

Using a screwdriver, remove the protective cap from the hub. We install the wheel and tighten the two bolts that secure it. We lower the car onto its wheels.

Use a beard to straighten the collar of the hub bearing nut, which has been dented in two places. Apply the parking brake, engage first gear and place chocks under the wheels.

Use a 30mm socket to loosen the hub bearing nut. The nut is tightened with a large torque, so the head and driver must be strong enough to transmit the necessary force. We hang up the front part of the car (namely both front wheels, because otherwise the anti-roll bar interferes with dismantling, pushing the suspension elements up). We remove the wheel. Unscrew the hub bearing nut completely...

...and remove the puck. Remove the front wheel brake disc (see “Removing the front wheel brake disc”). Disconnect the right wheel drive from the hub (see “Removing the front wheel drives”). In order not to disturb the wheel alignment angles, you can replace the bearing without removing the steering knuckle. To do this, connect the ball joint to the knuckle...

...and compress the hub by striking it through a soft metal drift. You can also compress the hub using the front wheel brake disc.

We pass M12×1.25 mm bolts about 130 mm long through two diametrically opposite holes in the disk and screw them into the holes of the hub to a depth equal to its thickness. By sharply hitting the bolt heads with a disk, we compress the hub. If it was not possible to remove the hub in this way, remove the steering knuckle. To do this, unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the shock absorber strut to the steering knuckle, remove the bolts (see “Removing the shock absorber strut and disassembling it”). Disconnect the ball joint and remove the steering knuckle.

We install the steering knuckle on the jaws of the vice and press the hub out of the knuckle through a mandrel or head of a suitable diameter, applying force to the end of the hub.

We remove the hub from the fist. In this case, the outer part of the inner ring of the bearing remains on the hub.

Remove the mud ring from the hub.

We insert a blunt chisel between the ends of the inner ring of the bearing and the hub and, striking the chisel with a hammer, move the inner ring.

Use a puller to compress the inner ring of the bearing.

Using circlip pliers, remove the circlip.

Use a cup puller to press the bearing out of the steering knuckle...

...and take it out with the puller. Remove the bearing from the puller. Clean and lubricate the inner surface of the steering knuckle. Using a needle file, we clean out the nicks from the chisel on the hub. We press the new bearing into the steering knuckle, applying force to the outer ring of the bearing. We install a retaining ring in the groove of the steering knuckle socket. When pressing the hub, we use the puller washer to rest on the inner ring of the bearing. We carry out further assembly in the reverse order, tighten the bearing nut to the prescribed torque (see “Appendices”) and be sure to lock it by jamming the collar. If the bearing was replaced with the steering knuckle removed, then it is necessary to check and adjust the wheel alignment angles at a service station.

Noises from the bridge

So, a hum from the rear axle of a VAZ-2107 car is the most common phenomenon that scares not only the driver, but also passengers. If a hum occurs in the bridge, you must first try not to operate the car until it is eliminated, because these noises indicate serious problems that may arise on the road. What needs to be done first to eliminate the causes of the hum and protect your life?

• Oil level. First of all, a ringing sound on the rear axle when driving may indicate a decrease in the permissible oil level in the system. It is especially necessary to analyze if the car has low mileage, then most likely this is the case. Therefore, it is necessary to check the oil level in the bridge and add if necessary.
• Curved axes. If the reason for the hum on the rear axle was not a low oil level, then most likely you were less fortunate and the reason was bent axles. This type of damage occurs over long periods of use of the car, especially when the “seven” covered roads with poor road surfaces. Or when there was a noticeable impact on the road with the rear axle, so it is urgent to get repairs. It is better to entrust the replacement of axles to professionals, but if you wish, you can do it yourself.
• Unsuitability of axle bearings. Often occurs in conjunction with bent rear axle axles. Operating the car is strictly prohibited, because the unsuitable condition of the bearing leads to its crumbling right on the road. Therefore, it is necessary to replace the bearings and continue operation without extraneous noise.
• Other causes of malfunctions. Often the cause of extraneous noise on the rear axle when driving can be problems with gear misalignments due to loosening of the gears. Therefore, the bridge will need to be dismantled to carry out repair work. Perhaps a hum when driving indicates a faulty differential, which can be detected by rotating the satellites. If it is necessary to exert maximum effort to rotate it, then this is evidence of its malfunction and misalignment due to loosening of the fastenings. In any case, the fault can only be detected by disassembling the bridge.

Rumble at speed

Extraneous sounds at speed may occur in places where parts rub. Therefore, it is important to find out the source of the sound, either it is the rear or the front. So, let's go in order and look at the main reasons for the appearance of hum at speed.

• Noise from the rear at speed. First of all, when accelerating, noise may arise from the wheels. The reasons for improper wheel friction with the appearance of a characteristic sound may be loosening of the wheels. This often happens when at least one of the fastening nuts was not tightened tightly enough. But the reason is also possible that the ball bearings are worn out, especially if you installed Chinese models. When the bearing wears out, a loud sound will be produced, accompanied by crackling sounds. At speed, a hum may also occur in the bridge, so there is no need to rule this out; it is important to find out the origin of the extraneous sound.
• Noise when accelerating. Extraneous sounds can be caused when the car accelerates, the reasons for which are an increased gap in the connection of the gear shaft to the flange or when the final drive gears engage. To remove the causes of malfunctions during movement, it is necessary to adjust the increased gaps and, if necessary, replace the flange.
• Rumble at the checkpoint. Very often, drivers have the opportunity to observe the occurrence of extraneous noise while driving right under their noses, or rather, from the gearbox. The reasons why noise may occur in the box are as follows:
  Incorrect use of the gearbox during operation, which entails rapid wear of components.
• Poor quality oil poured into the box, which leads to gear jamming.
• Complete wear and tear of the box components, requiring replacement of the device itself.
• Carrying out repair or maintenance work with unqualified specialists, which could lead to disruptions in work.

Another reason for the hum, which the driver not only hears, but also feels, can be the following consequences:

1. Inability to engage any gear, which can only be entered on the third or fourth try.
2. Knockout of gear while driving.
3. Fluid leak from gearbox.

Noises can also occur when the gear is in gear or when driving at neutral speed, which also indicates that the gearbox is not working properly. In this case, the gearbox requires a complete overhaul or complete replacement. It is important not to allow the faulty gearbox to reach its maximum wear, otherwise you will have to replace not only the gearbox, but also the rear axle.

Hum accompanied by vibration

As for the noise, it’s understandable, but the hum with vibration is, one might say, the second phase of the destruction of a part of the VAZ-2107 car. Vibration is an imbalance in the rubbing or rotating parts of a car. The vibration transmitted to the steering wheel when driving is especially noticeable:

• Engine vibration. Vibration may occur in the engine due to characteristic damage to the motor mounting supports. Occurs when these rubber cushions become old, worn out and crack. Therefore, the engine begins to hit the rigid body of the car and these vibrations are felt throughout the car. At the same time, a characteristic noise is produced in the form of crackling or banging. To eliminate the causes of this type of vibration, it is necessary to replace the motor mounting pads.
• Wheel vibration. Vibration, accompanied by a hum, can come from under the wheels. The reasons for this are unbalanced wheel rims. This situation subsequently leads to destruction and wear of silent blocks, ball and steering racks. Therefore, you should immediately visit a service station to have the wheels balanced, which will be cheaper than changing half of the chassis.
• Vibration of the driveshaft. Rumble and vibration can be caused by wear of the car's driveshaft crosspiece, both front and rear. The reason for this is its wear and tear, which requires immediate replacement. The bearings of the cross crumble, thereby disrupting the engagement with the main fastening elements. The characteristic sounds of wear on the crosspiece are beating sounds from under the bottom of the car, accompanied by vibration felt in the cabin.
• More reasons. When driving, a characteristic hum may also be emitted from under the hood, which is caused by loosening of the generator drive belts. Especially when the belt tensioner fails, the belt becomes loose and makes sounds reminiscent of a diesel engine both when driving and idling. Therefore, it is necessary to replace the tensioner and alternator belt.

Noise in the cabin

Sometimes drivers have complaints about a hum in the interior of a VAZ-2107 car. But this is the minimum that can be called a problem. After all, do not forget that the VAZ-2107 is a car that began to be produced back in the distant 80s. The presence of gaps between the body and the doors and small gaps in the area of ​​window openings are the main cause of the hum, which often occurs when driving a car. This hum is the wind penetrating through small cracks and disturbing the comfort in the cabin. Also, the reason for the appearance of a hum in the cabin may be the operation of the heater, which has a characteristic hum.

Unfortunately, such a buzzing noise is normal operation of the heater drive, which is simply impossible to eliminate. Thus, this article presents only the main possible causes of hum, but in order to 100% determine the cause, it is necessary to find out the source of origin. This is the key point in solving such a problem on a VAZ-2107 car.

Source

Suspension support design

Where is the outboard bearing located?

Basic dominant

the object is a rolling or sliding bearing of a specific design, inserted into a metal frame. The free zone between the outer race and the inner sphere of the housing is covered with a rubber ring designed to dampen vibrations of the cardan. The leakage of lubricant and the penetration of dust are prevented by rubber bands with sealing covers that cover the gaps between the rings of the product.

The purpose of the bearing bushing is to hold the joint shaft in a calculated position with allowable displacement.

The structure, assembled into a single load-bearing unit, is attached to the machine frame through the mounting brackets of the base support.

Seller's comment

Special conditions: • Discount for purchases on credit up to RUB 15,000. • Discount for CASCO insurance up to 20,000 rubles. • Discount for trade-in up to 15,000 rubles. • Maximum discount of 50,000 rubles.

ID-1594/№44 The car is in excellent condition. Timely service. Careful operation. The salon is clean, well-groomed, and smoke-free. Pre-sale preparation and technical diagnostics have been carried out, no additional investments are required!

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Unlike the front, it has undergone virtually no changes. Here, just like on the first Soviet G8s, a semi-independent beam is used. It is attached to the body on hinges (fortunately, there are no “crabs” in the design). A helical spring with constant stiffness is used as an elastic element. To dampen vibrations and prevent swinging, two shock absorbers are used.

• High reliability. The design does not have additional levers, which, in addition, can bend when falling into a large hole.
• Energy intensity. The Lada Granta absorbs all bumps perfectly, especially if oil shock absorbers are installed at the rear.
• Cheap maintenance. Due to its simple design, this pendant can be rebuilt even with your own hands. And the cost of new rubber-metal elements is unlikely to empty the pockets of even the most stingy car owner.

The main difference between the “Grant” suspension is the wheel alignment angles.

Lada Granta: wiring diagram for rear wiring harness devices

The rear part of the car wiring is responsible for the equipment of the stern and sides of the car. all additional equipment is connected exclusively through this part of the highways:

• 1/2 – contact group for the dashboard;
• 3/4 – direction indicators;
• 5 – handbrake indicator;
• 6 – rear window heating contact;
• 7 – interior lamp;
• 8 – indicator of the driver’s seat belt position;
• 9 – cargo compartment illumination lamp;
• 10 – fuel pump drive;
• 11/15 – aft dimensions for the left and right sides;
• 12 – trunk lid lock drive;
• 13 – button for turning on the interior lamp;
• 14 – additional stop chain;
• 16-19 – door terminal blocks for the rear left, rear right, front left and front right doors;
• 20 – airbag control drive;
• 21 – contact group of license plate lights;
• 22 – on the dashboard;
• 23/24 – rear speed indicator sensors;
• 25/26 – seat belt pretensioners;
• 27 – group of dashboard contacts.

P O P U L A R N O E:

Antiradar circuit.

Converting the valve from a washing machine to 12 volt DC power supply

Electric valves are required to automatically control various hydraulic systems. Finished products are quite expensive. Let's look for a cheaper solution.

Recently, amendments to the traffic rules were introduced in Russia, one of which is: driving during the day with low beam headlights, fog lights or daytime running lights on. Now you need to drive with lights on during the day. Driving with low beams or fog lights on additionally creates a load on the generator, reduces the service life of the lamps, and also increases fuel consumption (more than 0.5 liters per 100 km). Therefore, it is better to drive during the day with the running lights turned on, the light-emitting element of which is LEDs, which consume much less power than incandescent lamps. You can buy DRLs, or you can make them yourself from scrap materials.

Diagnostics

In order to identify faults in the crosspiece, appropriate diagnostics are carried out. To do this, the following type of operations is carried out:

• the car is driven into a viewing hole;
• we grasp the driveshaft with one hand, and with the other we hold the flange of the drive gear, which is located near the gearbox;
• holding the connection tightly, we try to turn or twist the parts in different directions.

Attention: If you can turn it even an iota, then there is play in the connections and, accordingly, the crosspiece has a defect. It is clear that there is no point in delaying repairs and, as happens with a sick person, the car should be urgently put in order. If everything is done on time, you will only have to change the cross

Otherwise, this can lead to more expensive repairs, which include replacing the outboard bearing.

If everything is done on time, you will only have to change the cross. Otherwise, this can lead to more expensive repairs, which include replacing the outboard bearing.

Gearbox (Gearbox) for Lada Granta 2190

(the starter is attached to 3 studs)

Order by phone

To avoid bank commissions or cash on delivery fees, pay for your order with a bank card, using Yandex.Money, QIWI wallet or WebMoney. Your savings will be from 3% to 5%.

• Description
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• Payment and delivery

Buy the auto spare part “Gearbox (Gearbox) for LADA Granta 2190 (the starter is attached to 3 studs) with delivery throughout Russia and the CIS countries.”

Standard 5-speed gearbox.

.

Gearbox warranty is 180 days.

After assembly, all gearboxes are tested at a specialized stand to check for defects and acceptable noise levels.

Weight: 32.7 kg