Since ancient times, some Taz drivers used first gear to prevent the car from rolling away, even with a handbrake, my dad always taught me to set the speed. But this can end badly if you don’t turn off the speed and start the car. Over time, the parking brake, due to constant use, stretches the cable, you can tighten it a limited number of times, then you have to remove it, because tightening it is already useless.
He stops holding the car and is not fixed. You can tighten the handbrake on the Priora with just two 8 keys in the hole. This is usually done in your garage. Replacing the drive and handbrake cable on a Priora will require additional keys. Of all the brake systems of the Priora car, the parking one stands out separately. It saves you from unpleasant surprises - while it is working, the car will not roll away in the parking lot. When the handbrake doesn't hold, you should start repairing it right away, maybe you just need to tighten it. Lada Priora received the part as early as 2108 - it has not been changed since then.
When the driver raises the handbrake handle higher and higher to hold the car in place, this indicates that the parking brake system is not working. Most often this can be solved by tightening it, just tighten the cable and the handbrake will hold. There may be several malfunctions in the parking brake system of a Priora car; read the article to the end and find out about them.
What is a handbrake
The parking brake (in other words, the handbrake) is used to stop the car for a long time. It is used in parking lots, stops, on slopes and when maneuvering sharp turns. Such a car part can protect passengers and prevent accidents.
The hand brake is a safety system against unwanted movement. The operating principle is similar to a hydraulic system. In emergency situations, it is this type of vehicle design that ensures a complete stop of traffic.
How to use the handbrake correctly
Before starting to drive, you should check the position of the handbrake. If it is active, you cannot drive. This increases wear and causes problems with overheating of brake pads and discs. It is also not recommended to leave the handbrake active in winter. Due to the presence of dirt and snow on the asphalt, freezing of the above parts may occur. The car will not budge, and if force is applied, its individual mechanisms may break.
Parking brake design
Before deciding how to tension the cables and put them into operation, let’s consider the structural features of this system. There are two main elements of the handbrake:
- a lever that activates the brake;
- cables that work on the main braking system and slow down the movement.
There may be several cables in a car. Their number varies from one to three. The quantity depends on the Priora model. The most common option is with three cables. They are placed two at the back and one at the front. The “pair” is attached to the brake mechanism, and the third element is connected to the lever.
The connection of the cables is ensured by lugs that are adjustable. The design is also complemented by nuts placed at the ends of the “wires”. They are designed to change the length of the drive. The return spring ensures that the vehicle returns to its original position. It is located on the front cable and on the brake mechanism itself.
System operation process
- Move the brake lever to a vertical position until a locking sound appears.
- The cables move into a tensioned position.
- Locking the rear wheels for braking.
- Removing the handbrake to loosen the cables.
- Making the transition to driving mode.
Raising the handbrake on a Priora
It is not difficult to tighten this element of the brake system. Adjustment of the system requires the presence of only two keys for 13. It is desirable if they are open-end type. The process of self-repair is not difficult. For convenience, the repair process is carried out in a pit or using a lift - this makes it easier to get to the system. The photo shows a mechanism that requires intervention.
There is no need to lift the hatchback, just look under the car. The following workflow will look like this:
- Removing the heat shield.
- Loosening the lock nut.
- The first one needs to be tightened to the maximum level.
- Open cables are stretched.
- The nuts are tightened and the screen is installed in place.
Design
Many people mistakenly believe that the handbrake is a simple lever located near the gearbox, on the right hand of the driver. In fact, it is a whole system of elements that are connected to each other.
When the hand brake fails, in 90% of cases the culprit is a cable or a pair of cables that go to the rear brake pads from the equalizer.
To determine the reasons for the failure of the handbrake, it is necessary to understand the circuit diagram of the device and its components.
Handbrake diagram
The device includes a number of structural elements. Namely:
- Lever arm;
- Traction;
- Springs;
- Lever button;
- Main cable axis;
- Bolts;
- Washers;
- Drive unit;
- Equalizer;
- Case;
- Locknuts;
- Cotter pins;
- Right and left lever;
- Expansion left and right strip;
- Lock washer, etc.
Causes of malfunction and their elimination
As a rule, the reasons why the handbrake does not work are quite simple and do not require long or expensive repairs:
- torn cable. One of the common causes is a broken cable on the handbrake or under the car. The problem is solved by simply replacing the cable;
- jammed cable. Due to damage to the sheath in which the cable moves, it may become jammed, preventing you from using the handbrake. And the cable itself consists of many steel strands, which, if damaged, can also prevent proper operation. The solution is to replace the cable;
- dirty brakes. If dust, dirt, ice or reagents that are sprinkled on roads in winter get on the pads, this can cause the brakes to not work properly. The solution is to press the brake pedal several times smoothly while the car is moving. Thanks to friction, the pads will be cleaned;
- incorrect adjustment. It may happen that the cable system is not adjusted properly, the bolt is not tightened correctly, or the length of the cables is incorrectly selected. The solution is to adjust the system and correct tension of the cables;
- pad wear. The pads are subject to abrasion during operation. Every time you apply the brakes, the pads gradually become unusable. The solution is to replace the pads;
- oil in the pads. Oil or brake fluid leaks can cause the car to not hold up with the handbrake. The most important thing in this case is to identify the cause of the leak - it could be the rear axle seal or the brake cylinder. The solution is to eliminate the leak and clean the pads. If the pads are very oily, replace them.
When is cable drive repair needed?
While operating the vehicle, it is important to determine the moment when replacing the handbrake cable becomes absolutely necessary. When stopped by a traffic police inspector, the defect is equated to a technical malfunction and is punishable by a fine. A simple check of the functionality of the handbrake is to park the car on a slope with the brake applied. If the car rolls, it's time to start repairing it.
The main symptoms of problems with the cable mechanism are as follows:
- Excessive heating of brake drums.
- Lack of response when tensioning the cable transmission.
- Worn cable sheath.
- The tension adjustment of the mechanism is broken.
If the last point can be solved with a simple adjustment, then other manifestations of the malfunction require drastic methods. In this case, you need to understand the reasons for the situation:
- cable breakage or stretching;
- moisture entering the shell, especially in winter;
- souring of the cable inside the sheath due to insufficient lubricant.
Sometimes you can do without replacing the cable or other elements of the handbrake - just restore the lubrication. Practice shows that such a procedure, carried out once a year, significantly increases the service life of parts.
Replacing parking brake cables on Lada Priora
You will need: a 10mm wrench, two 13mm wrenches, a large flat blade screwdriver.
1. Lower the parking brake lever all the way down.
2. On a car with ABS, remove the rear wheel speed sensor (see “Replacing wheel speed sensors”).
3. Remove the brake drum of the corresponding wheel (see “Removing and installing the rear wheel brake drum”) and the ABS impulse disc (on a vehicle with ABS).
4. Remove the muffler from the rubber suspension cushions of the exhaust system and the additional muffler from the rear cushion (see “Replacing the suspension cushions of the exhaust system”).
5. Remove the cable equalizer (see “Removing, installing the parking brake lever and replacing its drive rod”).
6. Remove the end of the cable sheath from the bracket on the body.
7. Bend the two cable fastening brackets.
8. Insert a screwdriver between the block and the parking brake lever, move the lever to the forward position and disconnect the cable end from the lever.
9. Loosen the nut securing the cable holder on the rear suspension beam and remove the cable from the holder.
10. Remove the cable from the bracket on the body.
11. Remove the cable from the brake shield.
12. Install the cable and all parts in the reverse order of removal. After installation, adjust the parking brake (see “Checking and adjusting the parking brake drive”).
Preparatory activities
replacing the cable Novice VAZ 2114 drivers usually do not risk starting to repair the cable unit on their own, preferring the services of auto repair shops, and, it must be said, in vain. Finding the handbrake drive under the bottom of the car is not difficult, and with minimal skills and a small set of tools, the issue will be resolved within 3-4 hours. For repair you will need:
- Overpass or inspection hole.
- Open-end wrench set to "10".
- Two keys for "13".
- Pliers.
- Plastic clamps.
- Large flathead screwdriver.
- WD-40 lubricant.
To make your work more comfortable, you should clean the bottom of the car from dirt and lubricate all threaded units with WD-40.
Basic faults
According to the law, a malfunction of the handbrake is accepted in two cases:
- If, at a 16% slope, the handbrake does not hold the equipped car (without cargo and passengers, but with a full tank of gasoline, the driver’s weight is taken to be 75 kg).
- If, on a 23% incline, the handbrake does not hold the vehicle at full load (the maximum permissible vehicle weight has been reached).
In reality, more often than not, a malfunction of this brake mechanism of the Lada Priora is noticed not by measuring the steepness of the slope, but by clicks. When another click of the handbrake is added to the usual “set of sounds” when leaving the car, every car enthusiast understands that it’s time to tighten the cable.
But the problems don't end there. For the parking brake system they can be as follows:
- The cable has stretched too far. Over time, it undergoes deformation. It can be tightened, but to a certain extent.
- The cable broke. When the “limit” is reached, the mechanical device will have to be replaced.
- The handbrake indicator on the dashboard does not light up or go off. This is due to the sensors.
- The lever button is stuck.
Adjustment or replacement
In some situations, you can get by with simply adjusting the cables, but sometimes they have to be changed completely.
Repair method | Causes |
Adjusting the RT cables |
|
Replacing the cable |
|
Before making a final decision, we advise you to check the current condition of the PT and determine whether you just need adjustment, or whether you will have to change the cable.
Parking brake lever repair
You will need: two 13mm wrenches, a 13mm socket wrench (head), a Phillips screwdriver, and pliers.
Operations performed when repairing the parking brake lever on a VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Lada Priora
The parking brake lever is a brake system and not only the operation of the brake system during parking, but also your safe movement depends on its serviceability. So, in particular, the rear brake pads are set using the hand brake; in the event of a malfunction of the hand brake system, the rear brakes may not be sufficiently effective.
You will need: two 13mm wrenches, a 13mm socket wrench (head), a Phillips screwdriver, and pliers.
practical guide
The need to replace the parking brake cables arises if the cables, as a result of corrosion, have lost the ability to move in the sheath, have become very stretched, or have broken threads.
If it is necessary to replace one of the cables, we also change the other cable.
Removing the parking brake cables:
1. We prepare the car for work.
2. Remove the brake drums.
4. Remove the rear protective screen.
5. Loosen the locknut of the parking brake lever stroke adjusting nut and unscrew the locknut.
6. Using a socket wrench with a 13 mm deep head and a cardan joint, unscrew the adjusting nut and remove it from the rod.
7. Remove the adjusting rod cable equalizer.
8. Disconnect the cable ends from the equalizer.
9. At the brake mechanism of the left rear wheel, use a large slotted screwdriver to move the spacer lever forward and remove the cable eyelet from the hook of the spacer lever.
10. Using a 10 mm spanner, unscrew the nut of the bracket securing the cable to the left arm of the rear suspension.
11. Remove the front cable end from the hole in the body bracket.
12. Remove the cable from the two brackets securing it to the underbody.
13. Remove the cable from the rear suspension beam bracket.
14. We take the cable out of the hole in the support shield of the rear brake mechanism and remove it.
Removing elements of the parking brake system
We replace the parking brake cables when they are broken, pulled out, or stuck inside the sheaths, when adjusting the parking brake fails to keep the car stationary on a slope - up to 25% inclusive. We remove the parking brake lever to replace it or to replace the lever rod. The cables should be replaced simultaneously - left and right. We show the replacement of the left cable. Move the parking brake lever to its lowest position. We unscrew the locknut and the adjusting nut from the parking brake lever rod (see “Adjusting the parking brake”).
Remove the cable equalizer from the parking brake lever rod.
We take out the front cable ends from the equalizer and remove the equalizer.
Remove the end of the left cable sheath from the bracket.
The cables cross in front of the bracket.
Using a socket or a 10mm wrench, unscrew, not completely, the nut securing the bracket to the rear suspension beam... ...and remove the cable sheath from it.
We remove the cable sheath from the holder on the rear suspension beam mounting bracket.
Use a screwdriver to bend the bracket... ...and remove the cable from the holder on the body.
We remove the cable from the second holder located on the body in front of the fuel tank. Disconnect the rear end of the left cable from the parking brake drive lever (see “Replacing the rear wheel brake pads”).
We remove the cable tip from the hole in the brake shield... ...and remove the left cable. Similarly, remove the right parking cable cable. We install the cables in the reverse order. After replacing the cables, we adjust the parking brake (see “Adjusting the parking brake”). To remove the parking brake lever, unscrew the locknut and the adjusting nut from the parking brake lever rod (see “Adjusting the parking brake”). Remove the cable equalizer from the parking brake lever rod (see above). Remove the floor tunnel lining (see “Removing the floor tunnel lining”).
Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the four bolts securing the parking brake lever bracket to the floor tunnel.
Remove the parking brake lever with bracket and rod assembly, pulling the rod through the rubber sealing boot in the bottom of the body.
Using pliers, we straighten the cotter pin... ...and remove it from the finger.
Remove the washer, axle and rod from the parking brake lever. Install the parking brake lever in reverse order. We adjust the parking brake (see “Adjusting the parking brake”).
The manual or parking brake cable is the working part of the manual locking system for the rear wheels of a car. Cables connect the handbrake lever next to the driver and the brake elements of the rear wheels. Manual braking is used when parking with the engine turned off for more than 6 minutes or during emergency emergency braking on the road. The design of the hand brake is extremely simple and does not contain hydraulics.
The brake pads are actuated by cables twisted from individual steel wires. All this, lubricated with a special lubricant, is located in a shell, otherwise called a jacket. There are three cables in total: one central and two going to the rear wheels. According to the regulations, the cables last approximately 3 years. Over time, the cables stretch and, if adjustment does not help, you need to replace the Lada Priora parking brake cables.
Lada 2114
› Logbook › 067: Replacing handbrake (parking brake) cables Part 1
First, a little digression))
If I had known how much nerves and effort it would take me to replace the cables, then I would certainly have trusted it to the servicemen)) I think, first of all, this applies to those who have not climbed for 100 years, neither tightened the cable, nor removed the rear drums and who has this whole thing quite sour)) Well, or if you, like your plumbing skills, are zero))) Okay, I couldn’t help but say)) Otherwise, God knows how much blood I’ve had from these cables and rear drums))
Something else. I divided the entry into two parts, because everything fits into one entry in a very compressed form, and I would like to describe in more detail all the stages of the replacement, maybe it will be useful for someone)) I myself did it according to vague instructions found on the Internet, I will say right away that it helped she's not enough for me))
So, first of all, I recommend to everyone that before purchasing cables, make sure that it will not cost you the usual tightening of the handbrake rod, and also, before purchasing cables, be sure to find out which cables you have on your car)) I also highly recommend having WD-40 in stock))
I didn't know about this and bought the cables in advance. Parking brake cable VAZ 2109, price 270 rub. for a couple.
And when I reached under the car to unscrew the handbrake linkage, I realized that I had a linkage not for these cables, but from a VAZ 2110)) As a result, I had to go back to the city (fortunately not very far) to buy this evil linkage))
Here it is, the VAZ-2108 hand brake drive rod. Price: 120 rub.
Having finished with all this fuss and running around, I crawled under the car to unscrew the old handbrake rod)) The handbrake must be completely lowered before this.
There is one nut and one lock nut, both 13, it takes a very long time to unscrew, about 1/16 of a turn) Also, the place is not very convenient, right above the muffler pipe) It would be nice if there was a ratchet with a long head for 13)
Unscrew the nuts and remove the cables.
Then we remove the cable from each fastening along the way to the rear drums)
Carefully unscrew the nut by 10 (to be honest, I forgot, maybe by 8...=), after having generously sprinkled it with VDeshka
In my particular case, this did not help and one of the two studs broke off almost immediately))
However, on the other wheel everything turned out fine.
We remove the eye that was pressed by the nut, and pull out the cable.
Then, jack up the car and remove the rear wheel.
Now I had to remove the drum)) And I admit, I’ve never done anything like that in my life and in general, even who knows how it’s removed in general))
In short, I walked around the bush, thought about it and called a more experienced friend who explained to me as best he could what I needed to do))
To begin with, again, generously spray the guides for the disk with VDashka, and onto the central hole itself.
Then you need to somehow stop the drum. Your assistant can do this by pressing the brake pedal)) In my case, I hammered a flat-head screwdriver into the slot at the back of the drum between it and the hub, clamped it and only then unscrewed it with a 12-way wrench.
Then I slowly and gradually screwed these same guides into the other two holes located nearby, this should help “squeeze” the drum from the hub, I provide a photo below for clarity.
Simultaneously with the gradual tightening of the guides, I tried to press the back side with a screwdriver and also tapped the back of the drum with a hammer))
Apparently he “tapped” quite hard, because soon a piece of the drum ended up in my hand))
One way or another, after about 20 minutes the damn drum gave in to me))
Having removed it, we observe the hub and the bars and pads)) I circled the parking brake cable in red.
It is attached to the hook of the so-called parking brake lever, and in my case, to remove it I had to forcefully press this lever with a screwdriver, while I pulled the cable off with pliers.
Pull the cable out through the hole in the back of the drum.
I cleaned the hub itself and the insides with a stiff iron brush.
We take a new cable and thread it through the hole in the back of the drum.
How to change the handbrake on a Priora - step-by-step guide
Replacing the handbrake cable is needed when a regular tightening is no longer an option; you will have to change the cable or drive. In order to replace the cable on a Priora car, prepare a Phillips screwdriver and a set of keys.
Replacing the cable is carried out as follows:
- Place the car in the pit, lower the handbrake, and engage the gear.
- Jack up the rear of the car, put supports on it, and remove the wheels. Further actions will be described on one side, they will need to be repeated on the other side.
- Loosen the main muffler and hang it up. Do the same with the resonator.
- Slightly loosen the handbrake rod locknut. Remove the cable equalizer.
- Remove the cable end by pulling it through the special bracket.
- Remove the brackets that hold the cable in place.
- Using a screwdriver, press down on the actuator lever to move it further away from the brake pad. The lever should move to the forward position. After this, you can disconnect the cable tip from the brake lever.
- Loosen the nut on the rear beam that holds the cable, and then pull it towards you.
- Pull the cable through the bracket that is attached to the body, then through the brake shield.
- Check the parking brake and make adjustments. If necessary, tighten the nut more.
In order to change the Priora handbrake lever, you will need a set of keys, pliers, and a Phillips screwdriver.
Carry out replacement work according to the following instructions:
- Drive the car into the pit. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Remove the lining of the central tunnel in the cabin.
- At the bottom, remove the metal plate that covers the parking brake rod. Loosen the locknut and then remove the equalizer.
- Remove the protective cover from the hole in the floor.
- While in the cabin, unscrew the screw that secures the tidy handbrake indicator switch. This screw holds the indicator switch ground.
- Using a wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the handle under the casing.
- Pull the lever assembly towards you - up, then pull the rod behind it.
- The rod can be replaced; to do this, remove the cotter pin and washer. The rod will be free and can be replaced.
- Disconnect the rod and axle.
- Reassemble the handbrake drive in the reverse order of removal. After assembling the system, adjust the cable, achieving 2-4 clicks to fix the machine.
Dismantling and replacement
It is difficult to confuse the cable from the handbrake with anything else under the bottom of your VAZ 2114, which greatly simplifies the repair and replacement procedure.
Dismantling works
We provide detailed instructions for replacement, and additionally recommend watching the video.
- We advise you to get the car in order in terms of cleanliness in advance. This will make it easier for you to find all the nuts and fasteners.
- Additionally, treat the nuts with the almighty WD40. This will make it much easier for you to unscrew the sometimes sticking and rusting nuts.
- Place the handbrake lever all the way down.
- Start with the adjusting nut and locknut that you used recently to try to tighten a loose cable. In this situation, you should loosen the nuts and remove them from the handbrake rod.
- Remove the washers and cable equalizer. Although this can be done after you jack up the car. But be sure to do it before removing the wheels.
- Raise the rear of the car with a jack, unscrew the wheel bolts and remove them.
- Tap the brake drum locking pins. This will allow them to be removed from the brake pads.
- Remove the block.
- You now need to disconnect the ends of the two cables from the equalizer. The fasteners can be removed from their places with the simplest pliers, so don’t bother.
- The shifted spacer lever has hooks from which the cable loop can be removed.
- The cable sheath must be removed from the entire suspension of the rear of the car. To do this, the mounting bolts are first unscrewed.
- Pull the cable out of the holes through the brake flaps.
- We got rid of the old cable, so all that remains is to replace the old one with a new element. The procedure is performed exactly in reverse order.
- Thread the new cables through the washers and hook the loops. You can additionally make bosses - this is a special clamp that allows you to fix the cable even more tightly.
- Reassemble the entire disassembled wheel structure.
- Route the cable along the suspension through the sheath and secure the bolts.
- Pull the handbrake in the cabin.
- Check the correct tension and operation of the new hand brake, or rather the cable.
It is not uncommon for the parking brake to cause an unpleasant squeaking noise from the rear. By changing the cable, you can get rid of this problem at the same time. To do this, rubber seals are installed under the cable fasteners on the body frames.
Functionality check
After replacing the cable, check its operation.
- Place the car on a hill and turn on the handbrake. If the car starts to roll, the new cable needs adjustment.
- Loosen the parking brake lock nut in the handbrake, tighten the adjusting nut, and then pull the cable using the lever.
- The optimal lever stroke should include 2-4 strokes. If this happens, tighten the locknut and check it again.
- We drive up a hill and turn on the handbrake. Now the car should definitely stand still. Unless the cable turned out to be fake or an error was made during the assembly stage.
Disassembled handbrake
Before frost, it is recommended to lubricate the parking cable, which will significantly extend its service life. Under the influence of negative temperatures, the cable breaks down faster. The tips, axle and rod of the equalizer should be lubricated.
Tightening and replacing the handbrake cable is not a difficult task. Even if you don't have a lot of experience working on cars, you will be able to do this job.
But if you are not confident in your own abilities or simply do not have time to do such things on your own, contact a service station. A lift will cost about 500-700 rubles, but for a replacement they will ask for at least 1,500 rubles.
cableThe role of the car’s braking system in ensuring safety is unlikely to be disputed by anyone, but the importance of the “handbrake” is still underestimated by many. Some motorists are negligent about its technical condition, believing that in extreme cases they will be able to lock the car in the parking lot by engaging the gear. At the same time, they do not take into account that a tightened handbrake will also help in a critical situation on the road. Therefore, it is better to monitor its condition from the first days and make timely repairs to the system.
We recommend: Lubricating compounds for guides and calipers - which lubricants are better and why
How to tighten the handbrake on a Lada Priora step by step instructions
The handbrake is the most important element of any car, ensuring its stability while parked. But after some time it weakens, this is due to the deterioration of the cable tension. Therefore, the parking brake must be tightened from time to time. Lada Priora is available in hatchback, sedan and station wagon bodies; there are no fundamental differences in the procedure for different cars. The same applies to cars with ABS. Some virtuosos manage to perform a lift without a pit, from the salon, but we will consider standard methods. Today we’ll talk about how to tighten the handbrake on a Priora and what you will need for this.
Progress
So, initially you will need to prepare the necessary tool. Fortunately, tightening the cable does not require a lot of tools; you can get by with two 13-size open-end wrenches. Before starting work, you need to drive the car onto an overpass or pit, this will be much more convenient for you
It is important to know that according to regulatory documents, the handbrake must hold the car on a slope of up to 25%
So, if you have installed the car, you will need to engage first gear and lower the lever to the down position. The next step-by-step instructions are as follows:
Remove the heat shield. It is secured with 4 fasteners, which will need to be removed, then the cover should be removed and set aside. Under the cover there is a special rubber stand, which is attached to the additional muffler. After you remove the heat shield, nuts will open in front of you, which allow you to adjust the handbrake
You will need to look for the one that allows you to set the position of the tip. The end nut is additionally secured with a lock nut, which should be loosened
There is no point in removing it, just twist it a couple of turns. Make sure there is nothing obstructing the nut. Experts recommend loosening both nuts at once, because in this case the cable will immediately tighten. The locknut must be returned to its original position and tightened tightly, because the safety of your car depends on it.
When everything is ready, you can perform a control test. Return to the driver's seat, engage neutral and set the brake to park.
When fixing the lever, you need to count the number of clicks. With an average pressing force, their number will not exceed 5 times.
Second test. By lowering the handbrake to its extreme position, you need to check whether the rear wheels are spinning well. If everything is good, then they will spin easily, without any significant effort. If something interferes with them, then you will have to loosen the nut again and tighten it. Next, the devices are installed in the reverse order. If any points remain unclear to you, you can watch the video on our website.
What to do if there is no result
Sometimes motorists are faced with situations in which tightening the cable does not improve the quality of the handbrake. In this case, it is necessary to deal directly with the brakes. The main culprit is the brake pads. They can:
- wear out;
- “get stiff” and not respond to handbrake commands.
Installing new brake pads will help achieve normal results. Experts recommend dismantling the brake drums and checking the movement of the brake pads. If they don't move, it means they're stiff. If there is still movement, the problem must be looked for in other nodes. The primary culprit may be a stretched handbrake cable. If all else fails, it is best to turn to professionals.
Handbrake diagram for VAZ-2112
1 - button that fixes the handbrake lever; 2 — hand brake lever; 3 — protective cover; 4 — handbrake rod; 5 — cable equalizer; 6 — adjusting nut; 7 - lock nut; 8 - cable; 9 — protective sheath of the cable.
In this scheme we need element number 6. It is he, and only him!
What is required for adjustment?
In order to adjust the handbrake you need a platform or lift. If there are no such devices, then you can simply hang the rear wheels on the “goats”. They can be installed under the car using a jack. It’s also worth taking two “13” keys and pliers.
Start:
- The car is installed on an overpass or “goats”.
- The lever position is set to the lowest possible position.
- Use a wrench to loosen the locknut.
- The second wrench holds the adjusting nut.
- The adjusting nut should be tightened until the cable is tensioned. It must be remembered that the rod should be held with pliers when tensioning the cable.
- After this, you should make sure that the full stroke of the handbrake lever is no more than 4 and no less than 2 clicks.
- When the stroke check is completed, the locknut is tightened. The adjustment is held with another key.
- If necessary, change the mechanism to a new one.
- After releasing the adjusted lever down, you should spin the rear wheels. When the lever is in its lowest position, the wheels should spin freely.
If you cannot tighten the cable, then it should be replaced with a new one.
Adjusting the handbrake after tensioning
After adjusting the brakes, you need to check them again. To do this, the car should be placed on a road with a slope of at least 23%. The car should be in neutral gear in this area and with the handbrake pulled up. If the handbrake brakes hold the car in this area, then the handbrake is adjusted correctly.
What to do when adjustment does not work
There are also cases when the above actions are not enough to adjust the handbrake. This can happen, for example, when the handbrake cable is broken. This happens on the VAZ-2112, although rarely. In such situations, the cable must be replaced. The cable also needs to be replaced when:
- The tips are loose.
- The cable itself begins to stretch, which will lead to its breakage during operation.
- Physical wear (scuffs and cracks) of the handbrake cables.
- It is quite difficult for the cable to move in the casing even after lubrication.
This replacement procedure does not require contacting a service station. Although this will require some time and skills from the driver, such work can be done independently.
It should also be remembered that when replacing the cable, certain conditions must be observed. To do this, the driver will need an assistant who will pull the cable.
Why do you tighten the handbrake?
The cable acts here as a drive. If the driver pulls the handbrake lever, then at the same time he uses the cable, which spreads the pads in the rear wheel.
If the handbrake is faulty, you just need to tighten the cable or replace it with a new one. On a VAZ-2112 it’s quite easy to do this with your own hands.
Tension
Adjusting the parking brake (handbrake) Renault Logan 1.4
So, having understood the diagram, you can begin the procedure of tightening the handbrake cables.
Stretch
The tensioning procedure is as follows.
- Place the car on an overpass or pit. If you don’t have a garage and you have the opportunity or desire to carry out the procedure at a service station, use a jack. The rear of the car is raised on a jack. The most extreme option is a curb onto which the car is driven and all you have to do is crawl under it.
- Engage the gearbox in first gear and put the car on the handbrake by pulling the lever up.
- The ideal number of handbrake clicks is from 2 to 5. If there are fewer or more clicks, it is easier to take appropriate measures to tension the cable.
- If there are less than 2 clicks, then the cable will need to be lengthened. If there are more than five clicks, then the cables are shortened.
- Lengthening the cable means relaxing it. To do this, unscrew the locknut. When tightening the cable, the locknut must be tightened in reverse.
- Before you start looking for the required nut on the bottom of the car, release the handbrake lever all the way.
- Take a 13mm wrench under the car and head down.
- Find the handbrake cable equalizer. This is the same element from which the main handbrake cable is divided into two cables.
- In some cases, it is simply not possible to gain access to the equalizer, since the muffler holders made of rubber are in the way. In such a situation, it is better to remove them. This is not difficult to do, but working with the handbrake will be much easier.
- Now there are two nuts in front of you. One is a simple nut and the other is a lock nut. Having two keys in your hands, fix the nut with the first one, and with the second one begin to unscrew or tighten the locking nut. Be careful that the nut does not start to turn.
- Taking into account the condition of the handbrake and the need to loosen or tighten the lever, turn the locknut in the appropriate direction. Remember what is the optimal number of clicks.
- Tighten or unscrew the locknut to obtain the required degree of tension.
Examination
But if you twisted the nuts there, this is not a guarantee that the handbrake now works perfectly. This needs to be clearly verified.
To do this, it is enough to go through a successive stage of verification activities.
Stage | Explanation |
Spin the wheels after tensioning is completed | The wheels are lifted one by one on a jack. When the handbrake lever is turned off, they should rotate freely without obstacles. By squeezing the brake, the wheels should lock. |
Drive up a slight slope, stop and engage the handbrake | The fact that the wheels do not spin when suspended is good. But you need to make sure that the handbrake holds the car even when exposed to gravity. |
If the check shows that the handbrake still does not hold, even if the cable was tensioned exactly according to the instructions, the handbrake is probably simply worn out and the cable needs to be replaced.
Signs that replacement is needed
It is not uncommon for the VAZ 2114 handbrake cable to rust, as a result of which it breaks or weakens so much that no tightening can restore its previous functionality.
At the first sign of cable wear, you should consider replacing it. This problem may manifest itself as follows:
- The handbrake is not able to withstand the required traction;
- Drum brakes overheat;
- When you pull the parking brake lever, the cable does not respond to your actions;
- The cable sheath is seriously worn.
To check the operation of the handbrake, it is enough to perform one simple action. Place the car on a level surface, apply the handbrake, get out of the car and try to push it hard. If movement begins, the cable is dead and needs urgent replacement.
We recommend: Causes of oil getting into antifreeze and their elimination
How to tighten the handbrake on a Priora: design and features
In the article we will talk about the handbrake system and describe how to tighten the handbrake on a Priora. This will help the owners of this car to limit themselves to independent work, without having to pay for the services of a service center. Knowing the design of the system, regulation will not take much time.
What is a handbrake
The parking brake (in other words, the handbrake) is used to stop the car for a long time. It is used in parking lots, stops, on slopes and when maneuvering sharp turns. Such a car part can protect passengers and prevent accidents.
The hand brake is a safety system against unwanted movement. The operating principle is similar to a hydraulic system. In emergency situations, it is this type of vehicle design that ensures a complete stop of traffic.
How to use the handbrake correctly
Before starting to drive, you should check the position of the handbrake. If it is active, you cannot drive. This increases wear and causes problems with overheating of brake pads and discs.
It is also not recommended to leave the handbrake active in winter. Due to the presence of dirt and snow on the asphalt, freezing of the above parts may occur.
The car will not budge, and if force is applied, its individual mechanisms may break.
Parking brake design
Before deciding how to tension the cables and put them into operation, let’s consider the structural features of this system. There are two main elements of the handbrake:
- a lever that activates the brake;
- cables that work on the main braking system and slow down the movement.
There may be several cables in a car. Their number varies from one to three. The quantity depends on the Priora model. The most common option is with three cables. They are placed two at the back and one at the front. The “pair” is attached to the brake mechanism, and the third element is connected to the lever.
The connection of the cables is ensured by lugs that are adjustable. The design is also complemented by nuts placed at the ends of the “wires”. They are designed to change the length of the drive. The return spring ensures that the vehicle returns to its original position. It is located on the front cable and on the brake mechanism itself.
System operation process
- Move the brake lever to a vertical position until a locking sound appears.
- The cables move into a tensioned position.
- Locking the rear wheels for braking.
- Removing the handbrake to loosen the cables.
- Making the transition to driving mode.
Raising the handbrake on a Priora
It is not difficult to tighten this element of the brake system. Adjustment of the system requires the presence of only two keys for 13. It is desirable if they are open-end type.
The process of self-repair is not difficult. For convenience, the repair process is carried out in a pit or using a lift - this makes it easier to get to the system.
The photo shows a mechanism that requires intervention.
There is no need to lift the hatchback, just look under the car. The following workflow will look like this:
- Removing the heat shield.
- Loosening the lock nut.
- The first one needs to be tightened to the maximum level.
- Open cables are stretched.
- The nuts are tightened and the screen is installed in place.
Do not tighten the cables too much - this leads to improper operation of the entire system. Otherwise, a full repair of the handbrake at a service station will be required.
Why did it happen so?
Perhaps the automatic requests do not belong to you, but to another user accessing the network from the same IP address as you. You need to enter the characters into the form once, after which we will remember you and be able to distinguish you from other users exiting from this IP. In this case, the page with the captcha will not bother you for quite a long time.
You may have add-ons installed in your browser that can make automatic search requests. In this case, we recommend that you disable them.
It is also possible that your computer is infected with a virus program that is using it to collect information. Maybe you should check your system for viruses.
If you have any problems or would like our support team, please use the feedback form.
In the article we will talk about the handbrake system and describe how to tighten the handbrake on a Priora. This will help the owners of this car to limit themselves to independent work, without having to pay for the services of a service center. Knowing the design of the system, regulation will not take much time.
How the handbrake works
Before talking about why the parking brake does not work, it is worth understanding the general principle of its operation. It is quite simple, so understanding how the handbrake works is not difficult.
The hand or parking brake looks like a special handle in the interior. It is located next to the driver's seat. Sometimes the parking brake can also be a foot brake. When the lever is lifted, the internal cable, coupled to the bar by means of an adjusting bolt, is tensioned. At the edges of the bar there are two more cables that go towards the rear wheels. When they are tensioned, the brackets inside the drums are unclenched and the pads are moved apart. This is how the wheels are locked.
Less work - longer operation?
Many drivers believe that rare use of the handbrake ensures maximum performance of this unit. In fact, such an attempt to preserve the RT resource gives a completely opposite effect.
The less often you use the handbrake on your car, the less movement the cable makes in its sheath. This leads to loss of efficiency and performance of the cable. Loss of mobility leads to the appearance of breaks when the handbrake is rarely applied. As a result, at the most inopportune moment the car does not stand still as it should.
To prevent problems with the RT, periodically inspect the condition of the unit, and also do not forget to squeeze the parking brake handle when necessary and required by traffic rules.
How to Adjust the Parking Brake Safety and Comfort
Lada Priora Sedan Logbook Preparing for winter. Starter
- The lever rises by 2-3 clicks, the number depends on the model;
- We jack up the car. It is most convenient to carry out work in the inspection hole;
- Then, loosen the tightening nut of the adjusting unit. By rotating the other nut, tighten the cable until braking force appears on the suspended wheel;
- Let go of the lever, the wheel should spin without much interference. Raise the lever again to its maximum position. The wheel should stop spinning. This is repeated several times;
- Once you are sure that the settings are correct, you should tighten the locknut.
How does the handbrake work?
When the driver activates the handbrake, either by pulling the handle between the front seats (3) or by pressing the parking brake pedal under the dashboard, a cable (12) running to the rear of the car is pulled, applying tension to the brake pads. When the driver lowers the handle, the return spring (11) helps return the brake system to its normal configuration.
The system itself is quite simple and banal - the parking brake handle is connected to a cable in a special plastic sheath, in which it can move freely. This cable goes to the adjusting bolt, which can be loosened or tightened. Then it splits into two cables that go to the brakes on the rear wheels.
In simple words, by activating the handbrake, the cable tightens and brings the pads together, which then secure the car.
Brief conclusions
Adjusting the handbrake is a simple process. It should be carried out regularly so that the car does not fail while driving. Many people turn to service centers to carry out such work. It is better to perform the adjustment at home to be sure of the result.
Wear on the rear brake pads is inevitable, which is why the handbrake cable has to be tightened over time in order for the parking brake to work effectively. On the Priora, as well as on other front-wheel drive cars of domestic production, the adjustment is performed in the same way, and to perform it you will only need two 13-size keys, preferably open-end ones.
To see all this work clearly, I recorded a video lesson that will show this process in as much detail as possible.
Sources
- https://maslo-5w30.ru/avto/kak-pomenyat-tros-ruchnika-na-priore-o-regulirovke-i-remonte-uzlov-legkovyh-avtomobilej
- https://zamanuha66.ru/zamena-trosika-ruchnika-priora/
- https://delis-avto.ru/avto-lada-drugoe/zamena-trosov-ruchnika-priora.html
- https://AlanSpb.ru/drugoe/zamena-trosika-ruchnika-priora.html
- https://avtonomnaya-gazifikaciya.ru/kalina/trosik-ruchnika-priora.html
- https://TrueScooters.ru/tehservis/regulirovka-ruchnogo-tormoza-priora.html
REPLACEMENT AT CAR SERVICE
Why shouldn't you contact a car service? The answer is simple - not economically, and not always of high quality. It seems that the procedure is not complicated, but the cost of the work is daunting. In addition, at most service stations they try to slip in their own cable, which is also not cheap. The average price in a store will be 200 rubles, while the service can rip off 500 just for a part. The cost of the handbrake cable varies depending on the manufacturer.
By making the replacement yourself, you will know exactly how well the work was done. Replacing the handbrake cable of a VAZ 2114 is a responsible matter. If you do everything according to the instructions, then there should be no problems. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions.
Replacing the handbrake cable with your own hands is not a difficult task