Elastic coupling for driveshaft VAZ 2107
The driveshaft of the VAZ 2107 consists of two parts (front and rear), connected to each other by a articulated coupling (cross). This design allows you to avoid loads on the shaft while driving, when the body and chassis of the car begin to “play.”
The VAZ 2107 cardan consists of front and rear shafts connected by a cross
The end of the rear shaft is connected to the axle gearbox, and the end of the front shaft is connected to the gearbox shaft. The connection to the gearbox is made through an elastic coupling, which is a kind of buffer for leveling shock and dynamic loads on the driveshaft and gearbox shaft.
The elastic coupling acts as a buffer, smoothing out dynamic loads
Flexible coupling location
The elastic coupling is located in the lower front part of the car on the rear side of the gearbox. You can see it if you remove the engine protection and climb under the car. The coupling is easily recognizable due to its hexagonal shape.
The clutch is located on the rear side of the gearbox in the lower front part of the car
Coupling design
The basis of the coupling is a cushion made of especially durable rubber. Along its circumference there are six steel bushings fused into rubber, through which the bolts connecting the cardan flanges and the gearbox secondary shaft pass. The coupling kit also includes a special tightening clamp, which is put on it during installation or dismantling.
The elastic coupling consists of a rubber base and six steel bushings located around the circumference
Diagnostics of elastic coupling faults
The coupling may fail as a result of:
- wear of metal bushings;
- body wear;
- rupture of the body.
In each of these cases, the malfunction will manifest itself in the form of body vibration and extraneous sounds coming from the gearbox.
The condition of the coupling can only be checked by inspecting it and assessing the size of the play between the flanges of the gearbox and cardan shafts. This is done as follows.
- The car is driven onto an overpass or inspection hole;
- The engine protection is removed;
- The coupling body is inspected and the condition of the bolted connection is assessed.
- By loosening the cardan, the presence or absence of play is determined.
If signs of wear or mechanical damage are found on the coupling body (the body is partially or completely torn), the part must be replaced. A slight play (provided the body is intact) is eliminated by tightening the nuts of the connecting bolts. If the play is large, the elastic coupling will have to be replaced with a new one.
Criteria for choosing a new coupling
Driveshaft couplings for the VAZ 2107 in Russia are produced under catalog numbers 2101–2202120 and 2101–2202120Р. The retail price of the part, depending on the manufacturer, ranges from 400 to 600 rubles.
Table: technical characteristics of the elastic coupling of the VAZ 2107 driveshaft
Characteristics | Indicators |
Length, mm | 140 |
Width, mm | 140 |
Height | 35 |
Weight, g | 780 |
Bending rigidity, Nm/deg | 3,14 |
Torsional rigidity, Nm/deg | 22,5 |
Rigidity during axial displacement, N/mm | 98 |
Breaking load (not less), N | 4116 |
Cyclic durability, cycles | not less than 700000 |
Prevention is needed in everything
And prevention can only be the following:
- Make sure that elements of this kind are reliably protected from dirt and dust
- Try to drive off-road without touching the ground. If you sit down on your belly in a good pothole, you can not only tear off the muffler, but also snag the mounting elements of the outboard bearing. Of course, it’s almost impossible to bend the cardan, but you can easily bend the metal bearing bracket.
- Try to change gears as smoothly as possible, and do not put heavy loads in cold weather.
To summarize, we can say that replacing an outboard bearing is not such a difficult task. Do not confuse the knocking sound of the cross with the hum of the bearing. As a rule, the first manifests itself when starting off - a sharp, dull metallic sound, and the second - a hum, similar to the grinding of wheels in the snow, accompanied by vibration, felt only at speed. And one more note - as a rule, this problem occurs on cars with high mileage, so if you recently purchased a new car, then you will not face this problem. In addition, this problem becomes serious only when the bearing is not removable and needs to be replaced along with the crosspieces and the driveshaft. Almost all Soviet cars and most foreign cars are susceptible to bearing disease. It turns out to be a kind of lottery - someone drives a 20-year-old car and doesn’t even think about it, while others are already changing the bearings under warranty on a new car.
Suspension bearing for propeller shaft VAZ 2107
The suspension bearing (or idler bearing) is designed to ensure uniform rotation of the driveshaft while driving. In addition, it is an additional point for attaching the cardan and is included in the design of the intermediate (suspended) support. In fact, it itself is a support, since it comes complete with a bracket, with which it is attached to the bottom of the car through a transverse bracket.
The bearing design is based on the outer and inner races and seven steel balls
Outboard bearing location
The bearing is installed in front of the spider at the end of the front of the driveshaft. It can be seen from the inspection hole in the axial recess of the bottom behind the exhaust pipe at its junction.
The VAZ 2107 suspension bearing is located in front of the crosspiece on the front of the driveshaft
Hanging bearing design
The hanger bearing is an ordinary closed type ball bearing. It consists of an inner and outer race and seven steel balls. For mounting on the bearing housing there is a steel bracket with holes for bolts.
The suspended bearing is equipped with a special bracket for ease of fastening
Diagnosis of outboard bearing faults
The causes of outboard bearing failure are usually wear or mechanical damage. The service life of the bearing is about 150 thousand km. However, exposure to moisture, dirt, as well as stress caused by poor road conditions can significantly reduce it.
Signs of bearing wear are:
- slight vibration;
- hum emanating from the place where the cardan is “suspension”;
- shaft play.
It is quite difficult to accurately diagnose bearing failure; this will require dismantling the driveshaft.
Outboard bearing selection criteria
Suspension bearings for the VAZ 2107 in Russia are produced under catalog numbers 2101–2202080 and 2105–2202078. The requirements of GOST 6–180605 apply to them. Imported analogues must comply with the requirements of ISO 62305.2RS. If there are no such markings on the packaging of a new part, it is most likely a fake, and it is better not to purchase it. The average retail price of a VAZ 2107 suspension bearing is 450–500 rubles. When choosing a manufacturer, it is better to give preference to the Vologda Bearing Plant. Bearings produced at VPP are considered to be of the highest quality and most durable.
Table: technical characteristics of the VAZ 2107 suspension bearing
Characteristics | Indicators |
steel grade | ШХ 15 |
Outer diameter, mm | 62 |
Internal diameter, mm | 25 |
Height, mm | 24 |
Rated rotation load, rpm | 7500 |
Load capacity static/dynamic, kN | 11,4/22,5 |
Ball diameter, mm | 11,5 |
Weight, g | 325 |
note
It should be noted that not only the suspension bearing can hum, but also the rear axle gearbox. First, make sure that everything is in order with the gearbox, otherwise you will have to do a lot of unnecessary work. As a rule, most car owners forget that there is never too much lubricant in bearings. Whether it’s an outboard bearing on a Tuareg or a Volga, you shouldn’t forget about lubrication. The only thing, as mentioned earlier, is that a new suspension assembly is usually very expensive on foreign cars. The best advice is to replace it with an analogue from Soviet cars or replace the bearing itself and replace the crosspiece. It’s up to you to decide what to do; besides, examples of “collective farm” methods exist in abundance and most of them are successful.
Firstly, low winter temperatures even negatively affect the lubrication in bearings, and this is not surprising.
Secondly, the cardan, as a rule, is located above the exhaust system, which heats up during engine operation and dries the lubricant in the bearings.
All this happens slowly, over years, but when it comes to Chinese or Korean cars, then it is better to install a high-quality Russian bearing at the first symptoms. Yes, by the way, some foreign cars are suitable for bearings from Soviet and Russian cars, so pay attention to this.
Balancing the driveshaft VAZ 2107
After disassembling and replacing any element, the driveshaft must be balanced. This is done on a special stand, so for balancing it is easier to contact the nearest car service center. The balancing itself consists of measuring and eliminating the imbalance on the three shaft supports. Its permissible value at a shaft rotation speed of 5500 rpm should not be more than 1.62 N*mm. The imbalance is eliminated by welding small weights (metal plates) onto the surface of the front driveshaft.
If vibration appears after repairing the driveshaft, you can try to balance it yourself. Naturally, there can be no talk of any accuracy here, and the balancing itself will be only temporary. This is done as follows.
- Drive the car onto a viewing hole or overpass.
- Inspect the driveshaft.
- Conventionally divide the front universal joint into four sectors (if you imagine it in cross-section).
- Find a small weight weighing 30-50g and attach it to the front of the shaft using tape or tape.
- Drive along a flat section of road, paying attention to your choices.
- If the vibration does not disappear or increases, move the weight to another sector and repeat the checking process.
When the load is in its place, the vibration should stop, unless, of course, it is caused by an imbalance of the shaft.
How to make sure that the vibration is from the cardan
While driving, use the tachometer to notice the engine speed at which vibration occurs. Then, in another gear, increase the speed until the same phenomenon occurs.
- If vibration occurs at the same speed, but in different gears, then the cause of the malfunction is not in the cardan, since its speed was different.
- If the vibration disappears or decreases when operating in a different gear at the same engine speed, then check the possible causes of the malfunction described above.
Useful tips
To increase the service life of the VAZ 2107 driveshaft, you need to follow a number of simple recommendations.
- Avoid excessive contamination of the driveshaft couplings.
- Systematically check the tightness of the fastening elements and the presence of lubricant in the connecting units.
- If shaft malfunctions are detected, do not delay repairs.
- When purchasing spare parts for a cardan, pay attention to the manufacturer and compliance with GOST or ISO requirements.
- After repairing the driveshaft, be sure to have it balanced at a service station.
Diagnosing a malfunction, repairing and replacing the suspension bearing and elastic coupling of the VAZ 2107 propeller shaft with your own hands is quite simple. This requires minimal plumbing skills, a standard set of tools and careful adherence to the recommendations of professionals.
Intermittent or constant squeaking
Periodic squeaking occurs when you press the gas pedal, and disappears when coasting. In some cases, the appearance of a squeak depends on the temperature outside, as well as the angle of operation of the hinge - cross or CV joint.
- The driveshaft crosspiece is jammed. As a rule, it is accompanied by the presence of rusty smudges on the crosspiece. Syringing won't help. Jamming means that the cup bearing has become deformed. The next stage will be its destruction. It is necessary to replace the hinge as soon as possible.
- The CV joint of the cardan wedges in the operating range. Go through, carefully inspect for wear and tear and lubricate, if that doesn’t help, replace.
What you need to replace tie rods and ends
To carry out this type of work you will need some equipment and tools:
- The first tool is a twenty-two open-end wrench;
- A puller that will help you remove the ball joint;
- Pliers;
- A hammer, this tool should definitely be in every owner’s home.
Symptoms of faulty steering rods
There are two symptoms that indicate that the steering rods of the VAZ 2107 are faulty:
- The first reason is a knocking sound from the front suspension. Quite a bad symptom with serious consequences. This knocking noise is especially audible when the car is driven on bad sections of the road and at low speeds. It is worth noting that this symptom may also indicate other problems with your car. For example, some suspension elements, ball joints, stabilizer struts and more.
- The second reason that may indicate this malfunction is when the free play of the steering wheel increases. This is noticeable to the naked eye when, when the steering wheel is turned, the wheel itself remains in place and does not move. This makes it very difficult to drive a car at high speed, and especially on bad roads.
If you want to check the serviceability of the steering rods on your VAZ 2107 yourself, there is a way by which you will not need to contact professionals to diagnose the car. You just need to put your car in a pit. Next, you will need to take this rod from below and try to sharply move it up and down, and if you manage to do this with your hands, then you should change the tips.
Next, let's move directly to the process that interests us, this is replacing the tie rod ends of a VAZ 2107 car.
How to replace an unusable part yourself
Before you begin, you should prepare the following tools:
- assorted car keys;
- a special device called a jack;
- reliable mount made from high-quality base;
- a new CV joint that is suitable for the VAZ-2110, and lubricant for it.
After all the tools are prepared, you can begin step-by-step replacement of the CV joint boot:
- the machine wheel is removed and the steering knuckle is removed from the support;
- Using a car key of the appropriate size, the CV joint is unscrewed and removed from the hub. In order for this process to be effective, it is recommended to use a rubberized hammer or a special drift, which is made in a soft design;
- the retaining clamps are unscrewed, and the worn part is cut off using a sharp tool. After removal, you should thoroughly wipe the entire surface so that no old grease remains, turn the CV joint until the stop ring connects;
- If the turn is made correctly, then separating the CV joint from the axle will be quite easy and simple. Next, you should simply remove the worn boot, install the connecting clamp in its original place;
- before installing a new element, you should prepare it, that is, you need to fill the installed stopper with automotive lubricant, develop the part according to the instructions;
- the developed element must be correctly installed on the axle using a rubberized hammer. The CV joint must be carefully secured to the stupor;
- the remainder of the automotive lubricant should be squeezed into the boot of the VAZ-2110 CV joint, put a connecting clamp on top and securely fix it.
The replacement will be finally carried out only if you install all the removable parts of the machine in their original places and securely fix them. That is, it is necessary to install the steering knuckle in its original place and securely screw it with the connecting nut to the ball joint. All connectors are put back in their original places and securely fixed to the support.
This replacement of the CV joint boot is not the only one; there are several other options for carrying out the work. However, this method is the simplest, and even a novice car enthusiast can cope with it.
The CV joint on a VAZ 2114 is replaced after diagnosing its malfunction. As a rule, this unit reliably serves for 100 thousand km. The CV joint can fail earlier if the car owner does not monitor the integrity of its boots and does not change them on time. Then, through cracks or breaks, a lot of dirt gets into the hinge mechanism, as a result of which the unit very quickly becomes unusable. Signs of a faulty part are a knocking and crunching sound when the front wheels turn in any direction.
- a set of spanners or sockets;
- pliers;
- hammer;
- puller for pressing out the ball stud;
- vice;
- wheel wrench and jack;
- screwdriver;
- thick lubricant “CV joint-4”;
- rags.
conclusions
Replacing the steering tips on a VAZ-2114 car is quite simple, but the process itself can take a lot of time and effort, since the fixing nut will not always be unscrewed easily. If the described process seems complicated to the motorist, then you need to contact a car service center, where they will always help with replacement. Separately, it is worth noting that the chassis parts must be changed on time to avoid the tragic consequences described in the article.
Sources
- https://provaz07.ru/hodovaya/zamena-rulevyx-nakonechnikov-vaz-2107-svoimi-rukami.html
- https://carfrance.ru/zamena-rulevyx-nakonechnikov-vaz-2114-svoimi-rukami/
What is a wheel bearing and why is it needed?
The bearing consists of outer and inner rings, a cage and rolling elements.
The structure of all rolling bearings is the same, with the exception of the rolling elements, the type of which depends on the design of the vehicle.
Most often, single-row tapered roller bearings are installed on driven axles. This is due to the fact that they are small in size and durable.
However, they require careful installation and periodic adjustment, otherwise they quickly fail.
Double-row tapered roller bearings are installed on the drive axles, which can withstand a load twice as large as single-row bearings.
In addition, they have a closed design, so they can be used until they are completely worn out without maintenance.
The operating conditions of these bearings can be confidently classified as severe. And if you add frequent acceleration and braking, road surface defects and bad weather, it becomes obvious that you cannot skimp on the quality of this part.
During normal operation, the service life is 100-130 thousand km. Sooner or later on VAZ 2114, 2115, 2110 there is a need to replace the bearing.
Recommendations from professionals for repairing CV joints
In this subsection, we invite you to familiarize yourself with practical advice from professional craftsmen:
- If it is necessary to change the hinge, perform a complete replacement. The only exception may be the reinstallation of anthers and other small parts from this category. In addition to lubricants in the CV joint, you need to change all the clamps and, with a certain degree of perfectionism, monitor cleanliness during assembly;
- A hammer and a wooden stand are perfect for installing the CV joint in place. Carry out installation work carefully - movements should be smooth and not forceful. In other words, you place a wooden attachment against the part and knock until everything falls into place. If you do not use a “gasket”, there is a high probability of damage to the part, which will become unusable;
- Once the CV joint is installed, install the boot. First, use pliers to clamp the clamp onto the shaft. Equalize the pressure in the part - use a screwdriver to hook the edge of the boot and unscrew it. Now clamp the clamp from the outside. A plastic plug is placed at the end of the shaft.
All other steps are performed in reverse order, as during disassembly.
As a result, performing repair work when it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2109 CV joint may seem labor-intensive. If you have enough free time, try to figure it out yourself. Otherwise, it is better to turn to professional craftsmen. Any service station will replace your CV joint or boot in a short period of time, because this is a fairly common problem on any car.
Sources
- https://mylada.net/remont/zamena-granaty-na-vaz-2114.html
- https://mylada.net/remont/zamena-granaty-na-vaz-2110.html
- https://ladaautos.ru/vaz-2109/kak-zamenit-shrus-na-vaz-2109.html