Choosing oil for the Lada Kalina 8 valve engine (poll: which oil is better)

The duration of trouble-free operation of the engine on the Lada Kalina largely depends on the choice of oil and its timely replacement. Today, there is a problem in the fuel and lubricants market in the form of counterfeits that “kill” engine elements.

Another factor is the correct selection of oil for the Lada Kalina 8 valve engine, which almost every owner of this car can encounter.

The video below shows a test of automobile oils for the Lada Kalina.

Motor oils for Lada Kalina:

And below there will be another table that will help you decide on the choice for your climatic conditions

Recommended temperature ranges for use of motor oils

We have already dealt with engine oils for the Lada Kalina, now let’s look at transmission oils for gearboxes below

Engine condition after using fuel and lubricants

When changing oil, you should refrain from using various additional additives - engine and transmission, since modern fuels and lubricants contain all the required components that allow all units and components of the vehicle to operate with maximum efficiency. Many car owners use ZIC A products for the engine and TNK Magnum for the gearbox. According to reviews, this combination is ideal for Kalina. Here is one review of their use: “Before the next replacement, I removed the valve cover to assess the condition of the camshaft. I was surprised by its perfect condition without soot. When filling and before draining, the level on the dipstick was the same. During operation, the engine did not make noise or vibrate. I was pleased. As for the gearbox, the TNK lubricant did not have much effect on extraneous noise, but gear shifting in the cold improved significantly.” Below is a photo of the engine from the author of this review. Judging by his comment, the car traveled 40 thousand km at one gas station.

Judging by the photo, it’s time to change the lubricant, but there are no deposits or deposits on the engine, the engine is clean. Some car owners try to buy this material in metal cans, since the likelihood of running into a fake in this case is lower. This article ends with a review from the same Lada Kalina owner, who ponders which transmission oil is best for Kalina, and which one makes sense to buy at the next replacement: “Next time I’ll try to fill in the Elf brand from Total. I've read a lot about it and haven't come across a single negative review. Photos of the engines confirm their excellent condition with a mileage of 300 thousand kilometers.”

The duration of uninterrupted operation of the power unit on the Lada Kalina with 8 valves depends on the use of the correct engine oil and its replacement in a timely manner. Today there is a problem with the spread of counterfeits that negatively affect the engine. Let's look at which oil is better to fill in the Lada Kalina 8 valve engine?

Transmission oils for the Lada Kalina gearbox

Recommended temperature ranges for use of transmission oils

I would also like to note that the manufacturer strongly discourages the use of additional additives for both motor and transmission oils, because modern fuels and lubricants already have all the necessary components for the ideal operation of all components and assemblies.

From personal experience I can say that I filled my Kalina with ZIC A+ semi-synthetic, and in the gearbox - TNK Magnum is also semi-synthetic. After removing the valve cover, I paid attention to the condition of the camshaft, everything was perfectly clean, there was no waste at all. From replacement to replacement, the dipstick had the same level. The motor runs quietly, there are no vibrations, in general I am satisfied. As for the gearbox, after TNK there was only a little less extraneous sound, and even then - perhaps this is self-hypnosis, but at low temperatures it became noticeably easier to engage gears. Here, for example, is the appearance of the engine after 40,000 km of operation using ZIC A+ oil

conclusions

If you follow all the recommendations and choose the right oil, and also change it on time, then the engine can last up to 300 thousand km without major repairs. You should always pay attention to the country of manufacture, since the market is saturated with fakes of unknown origin.

What can we say about oils and recommendations! - even from the car manufacturer? Nothing, everything goes like an advertisement, “Luk-Oil” pays for advertising, we pour “Luk-Oil”, and everyone is happy, but in reality - we need to pour what is available through media, even if it’s cheap and doesn’t wear out for long, not 5- 6 thousand km, but verified, but it’s better to use a service station

I personally fill it with Mobil 1. The engine is happy, and so am I. There are a lot of good oils now, if only there was money.

It is important to fill in the oil recommended by the factory. And there is no need to split hairs. You just need to observe the frequency of replacement and the motor will last a long time.

Kalina hatchback 2010 , 8 valve. 1.6, I fill up with Castrol Magnateg, it’s not cheap, the engine works properly, saving leads to different results,

Only children pour oil into the filter, where does the air go and how not to tear it?

People ! There is no need to pour oil into the filter) There is a channel on YouTube “Denis Mechanic” They popularly explain why this should not be done)

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Oil properties

Especially for the Lada Kalina, AvtoVAZ has prepared a whole technological scheme that you need to follow when choosing the right oil. First, let’s look at why engine oil is so useful in general:

1. Oil lubricates the internal parts of the engine, and thus cleans it of dirt deposits.
2. The oil is designed for more efficient cooling of parts heated to a critical temperature
3. The oil protects the internal combustion engine from various corrosive effects on the internal components of the internal combustion engine.

Oil filters

All filter components present on the market today can be classified into two categories.

1. Rough cleaning. Such an oil filter is included in the lubrication system in series, so the entire volume of lubricating fluid passes through it.
2. Fine cleaning. These components are included in the line parallel to other oil channels. The oil filter is used to pump part of the lubricant (within 10-20%). This volume is mixed with the rest of the liquid in the oil receiver.

The disadvantage of this scheme is that the filtered oil is redirected directly into the crankcase, and not to the operating parts of the engine.

The oil filter for Lada Kalina with an engine of 8 and 16 valves, designed for rough cleaning, can be plate-slotted. Components for fine cleaning are available in cardboard, felt or paper versions.

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Filters for coarse cleaning interact with a system of bypass valves, which, if the working component itself is significantly clogged or in extreme operating modes of the engine, direct oil directly into the crankcase, past the cleaning circuit. Here, the stiffness of the spring component is adjusted depending on the magnitude of the pressure variation within the range of 0.8 - 1.2 MN/m2.

Fine filter elements are capable of filtering oil, trapping particles with a minimum size of 0.001 mm. Therefore, it is important what kind of oil to pour.

List of recommended brands

The Lada Kalina engine will work flawlessly if you use products approved by the manufacturer. Let's name the main recommended brands with which AvtoVAZ cooperates:

• Lukoil-Lux
• Luxe
• Novile Super
• Rosneft Maximum (Rosneft Maximum)
• Rosneft Premium (Rosneft Premium)
• TatNeft Synthetic
• TatNeft Ultra
• Esso Ultra
• Mobile 1
• Shell
• ZIC A

A little about the engine

The Lada Granta is equipped with engines that are exactly the same as those on the Priora and Kalina. Therefore, when choosing oil, you can be guided by the advice of these car owners.

There are three 8-valve engines on the Lada Granta: 82 hp. (index 11183, valves do not bend) and 87 hp. (index 11186, 21116, valve bends).

Engine 11183 (82 hp)

Engine 21116 (87 hp)

Oil type

Lada Kalina engines support various types of oils - synthetic and semi-synthetic. The use of mineral oils is not recommended, according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Moreover, this is an instruction not only from AvtoVAZ, but also from the Association of Automobile Manufacturers.

For reference, we note that the need for mineral lubrication disappeared after more modern injection engines appeared, replacing carburetor engines. Experts have come to the conclusion that the “mineral water” does not have any special value, but only creates carbon deposits on the walls of the combustion chamber. But this is a recommendation for injectors, while older carburetors are still more optimized for mineral oil.

What is better to pour synthetics or semi-synthetics into a viburnum 16 valves

At one time I actively surfed the Internet on this topic. The overall result is this: pouring synthetics into 10k is like feeding a pig oranges (the opinion overwhelmingly prevails on autoxxx)

In some places it is said that this can be harmful (oilclubххх).

Personally, I think that a good semi-synthetic is better.

Why the “pig”, what is the fundamental difference between the 10 and the Passat or Toyota? The same metals rub in the same way. Oil creates the same film. Do you feel sorry for the extra 300 rubles? Personally, I use synthetics every 8,000 thousand (1st time Elf, 2nd time Shell) and I’m not even going to switch to SEMI-synthetics. You don't eat semi-finished products, do you?

This is a very old tired topic. It was discussed here and on Auto-Ru, and so on. There is a big fact on oilclub.ru. Comparison with the consumption of semi-finished products is incorrect. If I eat boiled duck and Peking duck, I will live the same long time. The ten differs from the trade wind in engine life. There is an opinion that kirdyk 2111 (for example) will arrive at the same time, both on synthetics and semi-synthetics, all other things being equal. The super-cleaning, super-protecting and super-lubricating properties of synthetics simply won’t have time to help him. There is an article on the oilclub in the forum, which says that synthetics can be harmful to the engine https://www.oilclub.ru/faqdet.asp?faqid=9 (xxx replace dot ru). Maybe this problem has already been solved. And if not? And the main question. Has anyone convincingly, with numbers, proven that synthetics are healthier? As far as I know, you can only notice the difference on sports cars, because their idle is where I have the cutoff.

So what is better to wash dishes with, fairies or AOS? If you make the right choice, the plates will last longer. IMHO.

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Markings

Let's look at oil manufacturers, as well as markings that can help you find out whether Lada Kalina supports a particular oil.

• Lukoil Lux. SAE class – QW-40, 10W-40, 5W30; group – SL/CF
• Luxe Hit/Best. SAE class – 10W-40; group – SL/CF
• Novile Super. SAE class – 5W-30, 20W-50, 15W-30; SJ/CF
• Rosneft Maximum/Premium. SAE class – 5W-40, 10W-40, 5W-40; SL/CF
• Tatneft Synthetic/Ultra. OW-40, 5W-30, 5W-40; SM/CF, SL/CF
• Esso Ultra. 10W-40, SJ/SL/CF
• Mobil 1.OW-40, 5W-50, 10W-40; SJ/SM/SL/CF
• Shell. 5W-40, 10W-40; SL/CF
• ZIC A. 5W-30, 10W-30; SL

Maintenance

According to AvtoVAZ recommendations, the 11183 engine must be serviced according to the regulations:

By default, the cooling system has a volume of 7.8 liters. Red Felix Carbox 40 antifreeze is usually poured on the conveyor. Replacement is made with any coolant, taking into account the temperature range of 85 degrees. Since the internal combustion engine device is quite simple, the maintenance operation can be performed on your own.

What happens if you don’t add oil on time?

According to the operating instructions, the oil for Lada Kalina is changed every 10 thousand km. In this case, not only the oil is replaced, but also the filter element, which, together with the fuel and lubricants (oil), has the same service life. If you neglect timely oil changes, there is a risk of encountering the following problems:

1. Excessive wear and subsequent failure of engine parts. Among them we note pistons, oil scraper rings, as well as main and connecting rod bearings
2. Deposition of a large amount of carbon deposits on the walls of the combustion chamber
3. Deposition of a large amount of carbon deposits on the walls of the cylinder block
4. Scale appears in the engine, which leads to overheating of the internal combustion engine
5. Low anti-corrosion resistance
6. Oil channels need cleaning due to large dirt deposits
7. If you systematically refuse to change the oil, it may lead to a major overhaul of the engine - this is the worst case scenario. At best, there is a high probability of failure of the crankshaft and camshaft, which will need to be replaced. You will also have to update the piston group

Step-by-step instruction

Having installed your car on the inspection pit/overpass/lift, begin step-by-step operations to replace the mining, during which you must:

• raise the hood of the car;
• open the oil filler neck;
• clean the oil pan from dirt;
• place an empty container under the drain hole of the oil pan;
• Using a 17mm wrench, carefully unscrew the drain plug;

Important: you need to be careful when draining waste. Contact with skin may cause burns.

• after all the waste has drained, which takes about 10 minutes, screw the drain plug into place. Pre-clean it from dirt and waste residues;
• Using a special puller, unscrew the oil filter, not forgetting to replace the container with the drained oil;

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Tip: If you don't have an oil filter remover, use a large screwdriver. To remove the filter, use a screwdriver to pierce its housing. Then, using a screwdriver as a wrench, unscrew the filter.

• Using a clean rag, thoroughly wipe the filter seat from dirt and waste residues;
• carefully pour motor lubricant into the new filter (about 300 ml) and lubricate the rubber sealing gasket with it;
• Carefully install the oil filter, tightening it by hand. After the rubber sealing gasket comes into contact with the cylinder block, turn the filter another 3/4 turn;
• insert a funnel into the oil filler neck and pour new motor oil into the engine (somewhere around 3.2 liters). At the same time, do not forget to control the level of auto-lubrication in the crankcase of the power unit using a dipstick. A level is considered normal when the mark is in the middle between the MIN and MAX marks. If the mark is located above the MAX mark, then drain the excess auto-lubricant by unscrewing the drain plug;
• Pour a sufficient amount of engine oil into the engine, tighten the filler neck with a plug, having previously cleaned it of dirt and traces of carbon deposits.
• This completes the oil change process. Before starting the engine for the first time, it is recommended to check for signs of leakage on or under the engine.

If no leaks are detected, then the power unit can be started. The first time they run it for 1-2 minutes. During this time, the red emergency oil pressure warning lamp located on the instrument panel should go out. If the warning light goes out within a few seconds, then the work has been done efficiently and you can drive out onto the road.

Results

As a result, we can say that the modern Russian market offers a wide range of transmission oils for any car. Among all the products, it is important to choose exactly the lubricant that is ideal for you. After a little comparative analysis, or by trusting the opinion of the majority of motorists, you can easily make the right choice. When purchasing, you must take into account the certification of the product. This is very important in order to be confident in the quality of the purchased oil.

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Generation 1 (2004 - 2013)

Engine VAZ 21114/11183 1.6 8 valves 81 hp.

• When to change oil: 15000

Engine VAZ 11194 1.4 16 valves 89 hp.

• What kind of engine oil is filled from the factory (original): Synthetic 5W30
• Oil types (by viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40
• How many liters of oil in the engine (total volume): 3.5 liters.
• Oil consumption per 1000 km: up to 100 ml.
• When to change oil: 15000

Engine Priora 21126 1.6 16 valves 98 hp

• What kind of engine oil is filled from the factory (original): Synthetic 5W30
• Oil types (by viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40
• How many liters of oil in the engine (total volume): 3.5 liters.
• Oil consumption per 1000 km: up to 50 ml.
• When to change oil: 15000