Hi all! I’ll tell you about a very useful modification that will be useful for owners of elderly VAZ 2110. Many ten-year-olds have encountered a problem when, in hot weather, a hot engine does not respond to the movement of the key. The starter does not turn and you have to go under the hood with a screwdriver and make a direct connection to the contacts. In the case when the starter is working (in my case it is completely new), the culprit for this trouble may be the contact group of the ignition switch. Over time, the contact group in the ignition switch wears out or the current collector contacts burn out. This problem is successfully solved by installing an additional unloading relay. By the way, such a relay is installed on many cars from the factory.
To install this relay we will need: 4-pin relay with a metal ear (30-40A); 80r Wires 1.5 sq. mm; about three meters -80r relay block - 1 piece; 20r Flat male connector - 1 piece; Flat female connector - 1 piece; Ring tips - 2 pcs. Electrical tape, heat shrink, corrugation.
Fuses and relays VAZ 2110 - 2112, electrical diagrams
If some devices on your VAZ 2110 or VAZ 2112 , fuses or relays may be to blame. At the very least, the first thing you need to do is check them, and then draw some conclusions regarding the malfunctions.
Correct diagnosis of many electrical problems will allow you to accurately determine the cause of the inoperability of a particular unit. To find out what the fuses and relays of the VAZ 2110 - 2112 are responsible for and how to find the right one, read this article.
As in many other cars, in the VAZ-2112 and VAZ-2110, when the engine is turned off, the devices are powered directly from the battery. When the engine is running, voltage is supplied to the devices from the generator, which simultaneously charges the battery. If the current exceeds the permissible value or a short circuit occurs, the circuit fuse will blow. Powerful electrical appliances are connected via relays.
Which relay does what?
Relay
- an electrical device (switch) designed to close and open various sections of electrical circuits for given changes in electrical or non-electrical input quantities.
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Fuse and relay box
The fuse and relay box is located on the left, lower part of the instrument panel. It is accessible by pressing the button and folding the lid down. To remove fuses, there are special non-conductive pliers in the upper left part of the mounting block.
1 - K5 - high beam relay . If the high beams in two headlights do not work, check this relay. If one of the high beam headlights does not work, check fuses F3 and F13, as well as the lamps and the high beam switch.
2 - K4 - low beam relay . If the low beam in both headlights does not work, check this relay. If only one low beam headlight does not work, check fuses F2 and F12, as well as the lamps themselves and the light switch.
3 - K1 - lamp health control relay.
4 - non-conductive tweezers for removing fuses.
5 - power window relay . If your power windows stop working, check this relay. It could also be in fuse F5, or in the window lift drive system itself. To get to the mechanism, you need to remove the door trim. Check the electric motor, the appearance of the gears and the absence of binding of the mechanism.
6 - K3 - turn signal and hazard warning relay . If your turn signals or hazard lights do not work, check this relay and fuse F16, as well as the turn signal lamps themselves and their switch.
7 - starter relay . If the car does not start and the starter does not turn, check this relay. It could also be a dead battery, as well as the starter mechanism itself.
8 - backup fuses.
9 - fog lamp relay . If the fog lights do not work, check this relay and fuses F4 and F14. Also check their connection diagram, the serviceability of the wiring and connectors, as well as the lamps in the headlights and the power button.
10 - K2 - windshield wiper and washer relay . If your windshield wipers or windshield washer are not working, check this relay. Also check the wiper motor, washer pump and washer fluid level in the washer reservoir.
11 - K7 - rear window heating relay . If the heating does not work and the rear window fogs up, check this relay and fuses F8 and F9. Also check the connection contacts to the terminal points of the heating elements (at the edges of the glass at the rear pillars). If everything is in order, but the heating does not work, the issue may be in the wiring (the wires are frayed or something else).
12 - K6 - add. relay, ignition relay . If your ignition does not turn on or is having problems with it, check this relay. This relay protects the ignition switch contacts from burning. Also check the ignition switch itself and the contact group.
13 - row of fuses F1-F10
14 - row of fuses F11-F20
Additional VR starter
On modern cars, an additional VR starter is a priori provided. On older cars, the relay is installed and connected independently.
The advantages of installing an additional VR are obvious:
- Protects the starter device from burnout of contacts in the lock, which occurs for various reasons (long start-up, banal wear, etc.);
- It has a positive effect on the loading of contacts of the same ignition switch, as a result of which the contacts remain operational longer;
- Protection of the starter from a situation where, due to a “glitch” of the key in the ignition switch (the engine has started, but the starter continues to spin).
You can check whether the additional VR is installed on the car like this:
- Look in the “black box” (fuse box);
- Turn on the starter device in the engine purging mode - if the additional relay is on, then the starter must turn off on its own after a few seconds.
Connection of additional VR
Here's how to connect:
- Fix the relay in any convenient place (you can on the stud of the glass cleaning fluid reservoir);
- Connect the cable to the starter;
- Remove the red wire from the flat terminal of the main relay, and in its place insert the wire from the additional VR;
- Connect the other wire of the new BP with an 8 mm tip to the positive of the starter;
- Place contact 30 of the additional VR onto the released contact of the main VR;
- Screw the short wire numbered 85 to the body (ground).
Additional relays can be purchased in stores. They are sold as a kit, where everything is provided for proper self-installation.
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Additional starter relay VAZ 2110
As it was already found out earlier, the Lada of the tenth family does not have a starter relay . The starter retractor is controlled directly from the ignition switch, and therefore the contact group loses good contact. Therefore, many VAZ 2110 owners install an additional starter relay . This will relieve the contact group, as well as significantly increase the tension on the retractor.
_For an additional VAZ 2110 starter relay you will need:_
- 4-pin relay (30-40 A);
- Wires;
- Flat female connector - 5 pcs;
- Flat male connector - 1 piece;
- Ring tips for 6 mm and 8 mm - 1 pc.
_The VAZ 2110 starter relay diagram looks like this:_
Are the instructions useful? Yes 23 No
- VAZ (Lada) 2110 Where is the VAZ 2110 starter relay?
5.11.2013, 14:50 | 18k 2
VAZ (Lada) 2110 Where is the starter relay 2110 located?
03/12/2014, 18:33 | 3k 1
VAZ (Lada) 2110 The starter clicks but does not turn
03/22/2015, 20:38 | 3k 3
Additional VR starter
On modern cars, an additional VR starter is a priori provided. On older cars, the relay is installed and connected independently.
The advantages of installing an additional VR are obvious:
- Protects the starter device from burnout of contacts in the lock, which occurs for various reasons (long start-up, banal wear, etc.);
- It has a positive effect on the loading of contacts of the same ignition switch, as a result of which the contacts remain operational longer;
- Protection of the starter from a situation where, due to a “glitch” of the key in the ignition switch (the engine has started, but the starter continues to spin).
You can check whether the additional VR is installed on the car like this:
- Look in the “black box” (fuse box);
- Turn on the starter device in the engine purging mode - if the additional relay is on, then the starter must turn off on its own after a few seconds.
Connection of additional VR
Here's how to connect:
- Fix the relay in any convenient place (you can on the stud of the glass cleaning fluid reservoir);
- Connect the cable to the starter;
- Remove the red wire from the flat terminal of the main relay, and in its place insert the wire from the additional VR;
- Connect the other wire of the new BP with an 8 mm tip to the positive of the starter;
- Place contact 30 of the additional VR onto the released contact of the main VR;
- Screw the short wire numbered 85 to the body (ground).
Additional relays can be purchased in stores. They are sold as a kit, where everything is provided for proper self-installation.
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Replacing the VAZ 2110 starter relay on your own
All drivers know that without a starter, the car not only won’t move, it won’t even start. It drives the crankshaft. In this case, the shaft is accelerated to a certain frequency. As soon as the desired frequency is reached, the engine will start. One of the starter components is a two-winding traction relay. Replacing the VAZ 2110 starter relay is a mandatory procedure, because without the correct operation of this mechanism, the vehicle will not move. On a VAZ 2110, replacing the starter relay can be done on your own.
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- The controller controls the on/off of the additional starter relay depending on the crankshaft speed and the time the starter cranks the engine.
- After setting the ignition key to the “Starter” position and the crankshaft rotation speed not exceeding 500 min1, the controller sends a signal to an additional relay and thus turns on the starter.
- After being turned on, the starter will work until the ignition key is in the “Starter” position for no more than 20 seconds, provided that the “correct” password has been received from the immobilizer and the crankshaft speed has not increased to 500 min1. This prevents the starter from turning on when the engine is running and its overheating during prolonged cranking.
What is a relay for?
Replacing the starter relay on a VAZ 2110
The traction relay ensures that the drive gear starts. Starting occurs in clutch with the gear mechanism of the crankshaft flywheel. It also provides power to the starter motor. When the starter is turned on, energy begins to be transferred from the battery. The energy path passes through the ignition switch.
VAZ 2110 additional starter relay
In this way, power is supplied to each winding of the traction relay. Windings have two types:
As soon as the process of closing the relay contacts takes place, the retractor winding is turned off. A working relay has a voltage limit that should not exceed 8 V. The temperature during this process should not exceed 25 degrees Celsius. If the voltage when starting the relay exceeds this indicator, then you should pay attention to the drive and the traction relay itself. They may become damaged or stop working. The traction relay can be visually examined. Perhaps the breakdown can be seen with the naked eye, but the starter will have to be dismantled and disassembled.
VAZ 2110 starter lock relay
The most common breakdowns
One of the most common problems is the loosening of the power cable tip.
Simply tighten it and check all the other nuts at the same time. The second popular reason for the failure of this unit is considered to be oxidation of contacts. If you notice a problem at an early stage, then just clean the contacts and the unit will work properly. If cleaning doesn't help, you will need to replace them. Oxide often occurs on the winding, making it impossible to block. You can try to clean the winding, but experienced motorists recommend replacing the relay immediately, this way you will be able to drive your car much longer without problems.
Another probable cause of problems with starting the engine is a break in the retractor power supply circuit. You will have to find them and fix the problem. Find the broken wires and place new ones in their place. Upon completion of work, check the relay power circuit again. One way to check the functionality of a disassembled relay is to check it with an ohmmeter. To do this, you need to place the probes of the device on the turns of two windings.
Sometimes it is enough to replace the anchor. This must be done when it operates slowly or is idle. These signs directly indicate a malfunction of the anchor itself. It will be quite difficult for a car enthusiast with little experience to identify problems with this element.
Repairing a relay is more expensive than replacing it, so the easiest way is to immediately replace the faulty part. This will save your time, because it is unknown whether repairs, which are often very labor-intensive, will help. An attempt to restore the unit is fraught with danger - if the relay is repaired incorrectly, you can be left without a car for a long time, since engine starting will be blocked. In this case, you will need to carry out more complex repairs, which cannot be carried out without the participation of specialists.
