VAZ 2115 starter relay - where is the VAZ 2115 starter relay located

Lada Samara is a general designation for the VAZ 2113 2114 2115 . They were produced with a sedan body, as well as 3 and 5 door hatchbacks, mainly with 8 and 16 valve gasoline engines. Years of production: 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013. During this time, some models were updated. In this publication we will show a description of VAZ 2115 2114 2113 fuses with block diagrams, their locations and photographs of the design. Note the cigarette lighter fuse.

The design of the blocks and the purpose of the fuses in your VAZ 2114 2115 2113 may differ from the one presented and depends on the year of manufacture and level of equipment.

Installing the starter relay

For almost a year, I was periodically tormented by problems with starting the car, especially when it was hot, the solenoid relay kept clicking, the charging sagged and the car, as usual, refused to start. After self-diagnosis, I naturally decided that it was a solenoid relay.

So, let's begin!

Unscrew the air filter mounts

Unscrew

Then we bend it to the side and hook it onto a pre-prepared wire tied to the hood loop!)) (a critically convenient thing, the former owner of the car suggested this to me).

Hooked

Then, after spraying a little with WD, we unscrew the starter mounting nuts, I no longer had the lowest nut, it’s likely that the starter had already been removed and so as not to worry about hemorrhoids associated with unscrewing the lowest nut.

Unscrew

It is possible that if you have a standard starter, and accordingly a standard retractor on standard bolts, then it is possible to replace it without removing the entire starter. However! My starter, as it turned out, is not a factory one, but a Cheboksary one! How can you determine this without studying the factory markings? Yes, very simple! Just look at the back of the relay.

I was able to buy a new retractor only in a store specializing in the sale and repair of starters and generators for all makes of cars.

This is what the new relay looks like

After removing the starter, remove the retractor, and this is what it looks like after several years of use

Then we put everything back together in the reverse order, the main thing here is not to forget to hook the moving part of the relay to the tab located in the starter itself!

We install everything on the car, start it once, everything is fine, twice - everything is okay, but the third time BAM!

and again the same parsley... The famous conclusion suggests itself:
“It wasn’t the bobbin!
And the asshole was sitting in the cockpit!” And here the most interesting thing begins, it turns out that the tenth and thirteenth VAZ families do not have a starter relay! This means that a high current flows directly through the ignition switch and the fuse box to the solenoid relay! And over the years, somewhere in the depths of the wiring, some contacts burn out and the current strength is no longer enough to pull in the solenoid relay and press the button located deep in the starter to apply voltage to the starter itself! To avoid these problems with starting the car, you need to install the starter relay yourself into the break in the control wire that comes from the ignition switch. (Again, my friend and part-time former owner of this vehicle told me about this).

But before I called my friend and found out all this, I removed the starter for the second time, completely disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned all its insides from wear and tear. I washed it in diesel fuel, lubricated it where necessary, assembled it, and put it in the car.

Dirty insides

Cleaned

Be sure to lubricate the rod with lithol or any other lubricant

And when it refused to start again the third time, I started calling my friend!))) And after the conversation I found in the garage an ordinary 4-pin relay, a mother for it and, most importantly, thick enough wires so that they would not get hot from the current that is needed to spin up the starter .

We pick out the standard wires from the mother’s plugs, crimp our own wires there, and wrap them up a little with electrical tape.

On the other hand, we crimp two wires into folders, and two wires into lugs for bolts that are screwed into the terminals.

I laid all these 4 wires in a corrugation and wrapped them with electrical tape for order.

Here, in fact, is the circuit diagram for switching on the relay, everything is extremely simple.

Borrowed the scheme from baan

Wires stretched to the engine shield

By the way, it is very important to connect + and - directly to the battery!

By the way, it is very important to connect + and - directly to the battery!

Conclusion:

If you have the same symptoms as me and replacing the retractor did not help you, then provided that your starter itself is working properly, this recipe will definitely help you forget about the problem with starting the car. especially “hot”!

Methods for solving the problem

Now that the main causes have been sorted out, you can move directly to elimination methods.

So, let's look at what ways to deal with the malfunction.

Fuse

Disassembled dashboard while searching for fuse and cigarette lighter faults.

The most common cause of malfunction or inoperability of the electrical circuit of individual elements is the notorious fuse.

This is where you need to look for the cause first.

But it does not always withstand the load placed on it. Thus, frequent and large use of additional devices can lead to frequent burnout of this element. Therefore, to check it is worth removing and inspecting the fuse itself. If necessary, the element is replaced with new ones and if everything works, then the reason has been found. But if the problem does not go away, then you should look for it in other places.

Contacts

Checking the contact group of fuses for malfunction

A contact group is another common cause of a non-functioning electrical circuit. In most VAZs, the connecting contacts of the fuse with the block or in the circuit of the wire block oxidize or burn out, and molten plastic can interrupt the contacts.

To troubleshoot the problem, you need to check all the contact blocks of the wires that go from the radio and cigarette lighter to the fuse box. So, it is oxidation and insufficient contact that can lead to the inoperability of the elements.

Wiring

Another reason could be broken power wires. So, in order to find and fix the fault, you will need a tester that will test the wiring and find a broken wire. It is recommended not to fasten the wire using the old “old-fashioned method” using electrical tape, but to replace it with a new one. This will take little time, so it’s better to do everything in such a way that you get a short circuit and cause big problems.

Short circuit

Location of frequent failure of the cigarette lighter socket.

The worst thing that can happen is a short circuit. The reason for this phenomenon is that frequent use of the cigarette lighter loosens the socket and this can lead to the contacts crossing and causing a short circuit.

The standard cigarette lighter is just a disaster for the VAZ-2114.

Here, the treatment for the malfunction is quite simple - replacing the socket. But, often motorists take a low-quality and cheap product, which repeats the procedure after a short time.

Bulb

Cigarette lighter illumination at night VAZ-2114.

The backlight bulb is located in the same electrical circuit, so the burnout of this element causes a malfunction of the radio and the cigarette lighter at the same time. So, if you replace the element, you can correct the situation.

Why do you need an ignition relay?

This part was also installed on previous models of VAZ cars. However, on early versions of 2115 it may be absent. It is present in the starter circuit on VAZ-2115-01, 20, 21, 22 (injector, carburetor).

There are different names for this part: ignition relay, starter relay, starter interlock, ignition switch or lock relay, main relay.

But in any case, its purpose is the same - to facilitate engine starting and protect the starter from wear and damage. It turns off the power to the electric starter after starting the engine, limits the currents flowing through it, and protects against caking of contacts in the ignition switch or turning the key while the engine is running.

In addition, it ensures starting of the starter when the vehicle's electrical equipment is turned on and the battery is slightly discharged.

There are no fuses in the ignition circuit of cars of this model.

Thus, this inexpensive part protects you from expensive repairs and makes it easier to start the engine.

This part should not be confused with the retractor relay, located directly on the starter and intended to control (pulling or pushing) the mechanism for engaging the teeth of the electric starter and the flywheel.

PRICES AND MANUFACTURERS

Prices for starting devices may vary depending on the manufacturer and the design of the device itself. Among the product manufacturers we can note such companies as Pramo Iskra (a Russian-Slovenian joint venture), STARTVOLT, LKD (China), BATE (Belarus), PEKAR (St. Petersburg), KZATE (Samara), Avtopribor (Vladimir). Nowadays, you can increasingly find a gear starter on sale - it has an additional gear mechanism that allows the device to operate under increased loads. Such devices are smaller in size and have a longer service life, but their price may be slightly higher.

Below are approximate prices for some types of devices:

Starter manufacturer price table

At the VAZ plant they install a KZATE 5712.3708 starter manufactured in Samara. It is difficult to say whether it is the best in quality, but you can always buy spare parts for it. Many people praise Belarusian products, but problems often arise with spare parts - most often in stores only Bendix is ​​sold as spare parts for it. It should be noted that the starters of VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2113, VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 are no different from each other and are completely interchangeable.

If the starter on a VAZ 2114 does not turn, it is not at all necessary to remove it immediately. The fact is that the relay may be to blame for the malfunction, but not the retractor, but the one that is unloading and is usually installed either under the hood closer to the windshield, or under the steering shaft in the cabin. The relay is included in the electrical circuit running from the ignition switch to the VR, and is designed to protect the starter from overload.

But the question of where the starter relay is located on a VAZ 2114 often confuses many motorists, and this question is often asked on forums. The simple fact is that, depending on the year of manufacture of the car, the manufacturer slightly modified the electrical circuit and changed the arrangement of its elements. Then, when installing an alarm system, auto electricians could move the starter relay on the VAZ 2114 to another location.

How to find this tricky relay if it is not clear where it is located? It is necessary to remember how the connection diagram for the starter on the VAZ 2114 is arranged. There are only two supply wires on the VR - a constant voltage of 12 volts from the battery and a supply wire to the VR coming from the ignition switch. It is along the circuit of this wire from the starter that you need to follow, in the end, the wire will lead to the desired relay, in the diagram it is indicated as a locking switch.

Where is

Where is the VAZ-2115 ignition relay located? It is located in the car interior, to the left of the steering column, under the instrument panel. In order to see it, you need to dismantle the instrument panel. Nearby, to the left of it, there is a relay for turning on the rear fog lights. They are screwed onto the car body stud with a “10” nut and located in special blocks.

The relay also controls the vehicle's washer, heater, rear window defroster, and some other low-current electrical circuits. If these vehicle components are not operating properly, the serviceability of this part should be checked.

The type of electric ignition relay is 90.3777-10, it has four contacts, the control voltage is 12 volts. When buying a new relay, be careful: five-pin analogs designed for 24 volts have a similar appearance. Self-repair of this part is unprofitable due to its low cost.

Video: “Ignition relay VAZ-2115: where is it located?”

Opening the trunk using the car alarm key fob

If your car has an electric trunk drive, you can connect to it with a car alarm to open it using the alarm key fob. If the alarm outputs a low-current signal to open the trunk (and most often this is the case), then we use this circuit.

First of all, we find the wire to the trunk drive, where +12 Volt appears when the trunk is opened. Let's cut this wire. We hook up the end of the cut wire that goes to the drive to pin 30. We hook up the other end of the wire to pin 87A. We connect the alarm output to contact 86. We connect contacts 87 and 85 to +12 Volts.

Now, when a signal is sent from the alarm to open the trunk, the relay will work and “plus” will go to the trunk electric drive wire. The drive will operate and the trunk will open.

These are just a few wiring diagrams using relays. You can find a few more diagrams using relays on the website in the category trick diagrams and in the section diagrams for connecting to the central lock.

If you installed it yourself

The previous owner of the car, in the absence of such a standard part, could install it himself. Such installation kits are sold in car dealerships. In this case, the electric relay can be located not only in the “standard” location. Finding it without calling the previous owner will not be so easy.

If a breakdown of this part occurs on the way, then you can start the car by closing contacts 87 and 30 (the location and circuit diagram are printed on the top of the relay housing). In this case, you are allowed to use the machine without any restrictions. But at the first opportunity, be sure to fix the breakdown. The operation of the VAZ-2115 ignition system directly depends on the relay.

Signs of breakdown

If, when you turn the ignition key, the electric starter does not spin, but you can hear soft clicks of the relay contacts operating, then the cause of the car malfunction is the starter. You can verify this by connecting it directly to the battery, bypassing this electric relay. If clicks are not heard, and the starter is working properly, then it’s time to change it.

Starter relay VAZ 2115

The most likely cause of starter failure is not mechanical damage, but electrical damage. The mechanical part of the starter of the VAZ 2115 car is a retractor mechanism, which works properly throughout the entire operation of the car, only in rare cases does it break down, and only on cars with high mileage. Electrical faults in the starter can be caused by relays, oxidized wire connections, short circuit and other factors.

Where is

If I haven't forgotten, the right one is the starter interlock relay.

Retractor

Self-test of the starter relay

1. To begin with, before checking the solenoid relay, you need to check the starter itself, since these checks have their own nuances and they must be performed in order to figure out what exactly is not working.
2. To do this, turn on the ignition switch and turn the key; if the starter does not work, but characteristic clicks are heard, then the relay is working, but the starter is not.
3. Without removing the starter, if you can get to it, of course, you can check it by jumping the two contacts (copper bolts) on the back cover of the traction relay. If the mechanism spins, the retractor is faulty.
4. When independently checking, disassembling or repairing various parts, be careful and careful, as this can lead not only to parts breaking, but also to various injuries.
5. If for some reason you were unable to check it on site, then you will have to dismantle it. When checking, be careful, since the rotation of the mechanism is quite strong, so that it does not break out and cause injury.
6. Place it near the battery, or preferably on the ground, and use a wire to connect the relay contact terminal to the positive terminal. Using another wire, connect the battery ground to the starter ground.
7. After the wires touch the terminals, the relay should operate, making a sharp and quick click. If you feel that the relay operates too slowly, then the contacts may be burnt.

Replacement

Before starting work, it is necessary to turn off the power from the battery, because while the electrical circuit is being created, it is prohibited to remove the starter, since you can completely burn out the entire wiring of the car.

• — Clean the surface of the starter from dirt and dust;
• — Unscrew the nut from the relay bolt and remove its contact;
• — Unscrew the screws that secure the relay to the starter body;
• — Remove the nuts from the end and divide the starter into 2 parts;
• — Remove the old core and put a new one in its place;
• — Reassemble all components in reverse order and check serviceability by connecting to the battery;
• — Install the starter with the replaced relay on the car engine and check the operation.

Before checking the starter on the VAZ car itself, it is necessary to check that all the contacts that are present in this design are in their correct position and ultimately do not lead to a short circuit, because whatever one may say, we are dealing with current. The operation of the relay is checked first at idle, then while driving, more precisely during sudden braking.

Sources

• vz15-up.ru/lkt/rele-startera-vaz-2115.html
• ladaautos.ru/vaz-2115/gde-naxoditsya-rele-zazhiganiya-na-vaz-2115-i-kak-ego-najti.html
• drive2.ru/l/6700667/

REPLACEMENT

We figured out where the starter relay is located on the VAZ 2114, now all that remains is to find out how it can be changed. There are two options for replacing this part:

• With the removal and installation of the starting unit itself;
• Without removing the starter.

In any case, you should have the necessary tools:

• Combination key 13;
• A screwdriver (it would be better to have several of them - Phillips and slotted ones);
• Key for 10.

A set of keys is always necessary to have in stock. Let's look at how to replace the solenoid relay on a VAZ 2114 with removing and installing the starter (by the way, this is much easier to replace):

1. Remove the battery terminals;
2. Unscrew the two bolts securing the air filter housing (10mm wrench);
3. Disconnect the connector of the air flow sensor (MAF);
4. Unscrew the air pipe clamp and dismantle the housing;
5. We pull off the wire chip of the solenoid relay (held on a plastic clip);
6. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the positive terminal;
7. We unscrew the fastenings of the starter itself (it is secured with three 13 nuts);
8. We take out the mechanism;
9. With the starting device removed, use a 13mm wrench to unscrew the wire on the VR cover going to the stator winding;
10. Using a screwdriver, remove the three screws securing the VR and dismantle this device.

Article on the topic: Installing rear disc brakes on a VAZ 2110

Now you need to install the new part and put everything back together in reverse order. That's it, the replacement of the retractor on the VAZ 2114 is completed. Of course, you can try to get to the relay mounting screws right in place without removing the starter, but it’s up to you to decide how easier it is to remove this device.

Preliminary safety notes

1. Voltage above 36 volts is considered dangerous to humans. Electric shock of 0.1 ampere is fatal. The situation is aggravated by high humidity and metal flooring.
2. The starter is a DC electric motor capable of delivering 260 amps at maximum load.
3. Interfering with bare hands or metal tools into the current circuits of a switched-on unit is dangerous to health. Dismantling, repairs, and installation must be performed with the battery power turned off.
4. Testing windings for interturn short circuit and insulation breakdown to ground is performed with a megger. The generator of the measuring device produces voltage up to 2500 volts. It is prohibited to touch the contacts during the verification process.
5. Electric motor equipment requires care and experience. Printed and electronic publications are not deprived of the right to errors or typos. An incorrect wrench size will quickly become apparent. A play on Russian words will sound, untranslatable into foreign languages. Things will go further. The inaccuracy of the diagram is hardly noticeable.
6. At the first symptoms of uncertainty or lack of knowledge, you should contact a professional auto electrician. The safety of car wiring and on-board electronics is valued above personal ambitions.

The fuse blows

If fuses are blowing frequently, then you have a wiring problem that needs to be fixed. In this case, it is better to entrust the electrical check to a specialist.

The Lada 2115 was first released in 1997 and finished production in 2012. Over such a long period of time, the electronic components of the car have changed significantly. It is not surprising that modifications of the mounting blocks have changed more than once, and with them the fuses of the VAZ 2115.

An old-style car with a carburetor required one installer in the engine compartment. With the advent of a new 8-valve injector, a second unit was needed, installed in the cabin under the dashboard. Some of the new relays were placed under the steering wheel during the 2007 and 2008 upgrades.

The design of the mounting block box has become more modern over time. To make life easier for drivers, a diagram was placed on the lid and tweezers were attached for replacing elements.

Signs of malfunction of the main relay and electric fuel pump relay circuits of the UAZ Hunter, their error codes.

In the previous material, we examined in detail where the main relay, the electric fuel pump relay and the fuses of the power circuits of the electronic engine control unit (ECU) in the UAZ Hunter are located, and also justified the need for their protection and periodic inspection with maintenance.

Now let’s look at why and for what reasons the UAZ Hunter engine may not start related to these relays or fuses, as well as signs of malfunction of the main relay and electric fuel pump relay circuits. At the end of the materials, analogues and options for replacing the main ECU relay and the electric fuel pump relay will be given.

Error codes for the engine management system with the Mikas 7.2 ECU associated with the main relay and the electric fuel pump relay.

If you have an on-board computer installed in your car with the ability to voice or digital error notification, then if there is a malfunction in the electrical circuits of the main computer relay or the electric fuel pump relay, it may display the following:

Error code 167 - short circuit in the electric fuel pump relay circuit. Error code 168 - open circuit in the electric fuel pump. Error code 169 - short circuit to ground in the electric fuel pump relay circuit. Error code 177 - short circuit of the main relay circuit. Error code 178 - main relay target open. Error code 179 - short circuit to ground in the main relay circuit.

Preliminary safety notes

1. Voltage above 36 volts is considered dangerous to humans. Electric shock of 0.1 ampere is fatal. The situation is aggravated by high humidity and metal flooring.
2. The starter is a DC electric motor capable of delivering 260 amps at maximum load.
3. Interfering with bare hands or metal tools into the current circuits of a switched-on unit is dangerous to health. Dismantling, repairs, and installation must be performed with the battery power turned off.
4. Testing windings for interturn short circuit and insulation breakdown to ground is performed with a megger. The generator of the measuring device produces voltage up to 2500 volts. It is prohibited to touch the contacts during the verification process.
5. Electric motor equipment requires care and experience. Printed and electronic publications are not deprived of the right to errors or typos. An incorrect wrench size will quickly become apparent. A play on Russian words will sound, untranslatable into foreign languages. Things will go further. The inaccuracy of the diagram is hardly noticeable.
6. At the first symptoms of uncertainty or lack of knowledge, you should contact a professional auto electrician. The safety of car wiring and on-board electronics is valued above personal ambitions.

Some useful tips

To ensure that the fuses in your VAZ-2115 last longer, and the failure of any of them does not take you by surprise, use the following tips:

1. At least once a quarter, check the condition of the mounting block, its board and the protection elements installed in it. Do not allow moisture or dirt to get inside. If necessary, take care of its additional protection.
2. When undergoing maintenance, ask an auto electrician to check the performance of the vehicle’s on-board network. If they deviate from the norm, take care of repairing the machine.
3. Do not overload the vehicle's on-board network. Do not use electrical appliances that consume high current.
4. Under no circumstances use homemade bugs instead of fuses. This can cause not only a short circuit, but also a fire in the machine.
5. Carry a spare set of fuses with you. It costs 150-200 rubles, takes up virtually no space, and can help out at the right time.

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