The need to improve the engine starting system of some models of VAZ cars produced before the early 2000s was identified during operation, which showed relatively low operational reliability of the control circuit for turning the starter on and off. To solve this problem, the designers went to some extent to complicate the circuit solutions and introduced a forced limitation on the operating time of this unit. The modification consisted of introducing an auxiliary relay into the starting circuit, the contacts of which can withstand a current of 50 A and forcibly break the circuit 12 seconds after the starter starts operating
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Benefits of an Advanced Trigger and Checking for Its Availability
The installation of an additional relay on VAZ cars made it possible, despite the simplicity of the design solution used, to achieve the goal by eliminating the danger of overload and subsequent sintering of the working contacts:
- ignition switch;
- starter circuits.
The strength of the solution is the possibility of relatively simple modernization of the wiring of vehicles already in use by introducing a new component into it.
The presence of an additional relay is checked by visual inspection, since the relay is made in the form of a hinged element.
The second experimental method is based on the cylinder purging procedure. To do this, press the gas pedal all the way and turn the starter by turning the key in the ignition switch. If after 12 seconds the starter is forcibly turned off, then the car already uses a modernized ignition circuit and the additional relay is working properly. If the starter does not turn off, make sure there is no relay and upgrade the wiring.
FakeHeader
They are the ones that connect the relay to the ground of the car.
The design can have its own housing or be installed in a common unit. A gear device that meshes with the flywheel of an internal combustion engine and ensures engine rotation. In this case, the battery ground is connected to the starter ground. Only after this does the fuel-air mixture ignite in the combustion chamber.
What is the purpose of such an additional relay and why do some car enthusiasts install it? To understand why a starter solenoid relay is needed, let’s look at the engine’s operation schematically. My name is Mikhail, now I’ll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a two-wheeler for a Camry. Then, when installing an alarm system, auto electricians could move the starter relay on the VAZ to another place. At first there will be a rather loud click. This means that the main system starts, but the starter does not work. It synchronizes the operation of the starter.
Installation process
Passing strong current near sensitive electronic components of a computer can affect their operation. I’ll say right away that I am against loans and taking a car, especially not a new one, on credit is unreasonable. A common option is to install an additional relay in the power circuit and control it with 3Z contacts.
It synchronizes the operation of the starter. Until a year, the bendix was located on the same shaft as the rotor, and then a new arrangement appeared, where the bendix began to have its own separate shaft and rotate through a gearbox.
For degreasing, use a modern liquid sold in automotive stores. To this we can add that not even all the latest modifications of this car have a wiring diagram for the VAZ starter. Installation of starter relay 2110
Additional Starter Relay Installation Procedure
There are several schemes for modifying the starter electrical circuit. One of them is being considered for the VAZ-2110. On other models it is carried out similarly, differing only in minor details. Other possible schemes are no different from the one described. For work, it is better to use a ready-made kit that contains the necessary elements and consumables.
- The procedure begins with the preparation of wires with a cross-section of 1 - 1.5 mm2, on the free ends of which ring lugs are installed using a crimping tool or pliers.
- Then, in a protected place and not far from the starter, the relay is mounted behind the metal mounting ear. A suitable place for this is the stud of the washer reservoir.
- Remove the wire from the positive terminal of the starter.
- The positive terminal of the battery is connected through an 8 mm ring to the 87th contact of the relay, and contact 30 of the relay is connected with another wire to contact 50 of activating the starter traction relay.
- Next, contact 85 of the relay is connected to ground;
- At the final stage, the existing ignition switch wire is connected to pin 86 of the relay.
- After installation is completed, the functionality of the additional relay is checked by purging the cylinders.
Button recommendations
It is desirable that the button does not have various latches inside. In other words, the button should instantly engage the starter and disable it as soon as the button is released. The locking button works a little differently. You have to press it twice to turn off the starter, and this is not so much inconvenient as it is harmful to the starter.
In a word, the principle of operation of the button comes down to the following: the driver holds the button pressed until the engine starts, then releases it, the starter turns off. It turns out to be a convenient option when you operate the button like a key.
The button material also needs to be selected wisely. You should take into account the fact that the button itself can burn out due to the passage of large currents through it. For example, a button made of anti-vandal chrome material fails after just 6 months of use, despite the fact that it is designed for high loads.
Characteristics
Despite its simplicity, the UAZ-469 already in those years had an autonomous heater, two fuel tanks and excellent cross-country ability. It was possible to overcome fords, obstacles and bad roads on this SUV without any modifications, but today tuning of various UAZs, including the 469 model, is becoming increasingly popular. Amateurs equip cars with larger wheels with mud tires, lift the car and install more powerful engines. True, with the latter option, all the simplicity of the design fades into the background, because you have to completely redo the entire electrical wiring of the cars. Nevertheless, the popularity of the car is only growing.
Connection after repair
For some reason, some car owners feel unsure when connecting a unit after carrying out certain repair-related manipulations on it. For everything to go smoothly, you must remember to mark the disconnected terminals. But when installing the starter in place, there will be no unnecessary problems. All contacts must be cleaned and degreased with a special automotive cleaner before connecting.
Lack of ignition is not always associated with the starter device; it may be a burnt-out electromagnetic circuit or electrical wiring, as well as incorrect battery operation.
Any car owner can check, repair and install the traction relay. The work is simple and takes very little time. The only nuance is the location of the starter in the car’s structure, namely, how convenient it is to carry out its maintenance.
Historical reference
Traditionally, the UAZ 469 was produced in two versions:
- Cargo-passenger version - 7 seats and 100 kg of luggage;
- Commander version - 2 seats for passengers and 600 kg of luggage.
For reference: regardless of the version, the UAZ 469 can tow a trailer with a total weight of 850 kg.
Industry standard 1945
According to the old vehicle classification system, in force since 1945, the UAZ 469 was produced under this name, using an alphanumeric name:
- The letter abbreviation UAZ stood for Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant;
- 469 is a serial factory index assigned by the enterprise itself to its models and developments.
For reference: according to the industry standard of 1945, each automobile plant was assigned a specific numbering. For MZMA, which produced Moskvich 408 and 412, these are numbers from 400 to 449, for the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant these are numbers from 450 to 484, etc.
1966 Industry Standard
Although at the time of the release of the UAZ 469 (1972) a new industry classification system was adopted (industry standard OH 025270-66), the car plant continued to use the name according to the old standard.
However, in 1985, the automaker was forced to change its name in accordance with current requirements:
- the car was assigned a four-digit number - 3151;
- According to the new system, the car can be called in the documentation as UAZ 3151.
For reference: industry standard OH 025270-66 prescribes determining the type of vehicle by engine displacement, length and weight. The first digit indicates the class of the car, the second – the type (truck or passenger car), the third and fourth – the factory model index.
The car plant named all further modifications and new models in accordance with current standards. In particular, the UAZ Patriot, which appeared in 2005, according to the industry classification, received the “correct” designation - UAZ-3163. For greater identification, the factory instructions contained both names.
Perform periodic maintenance work on the starter:
1. Check the condition of the clamps, making sure they are not dirty or loosened. 2. Remove the protective casing and inspect the collector, correct any faults if necessary. 3. Open cover 13 (see first picture) from the collector side, inspect and, if necessary, clean the contact surfaces, then blow with compressed air. 4. If necessary, tighten the starter housing pinch bolts. 5. Check the fastening of the starter to the clutch housing. 6. When operating the vehicle in difficult conditions, remove the starter to clean the drive and freewheel from dirt.
Starter circuit for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
Starters of type 57.3708 were installed on VAZ-2110 cars and had the following technical characteristics:
- Rated power 1.55 kW
- Current consumption at maximum power no more than 375 Amperes
- Current consumption in the inhibited state is no more than 700 Amperes
- Current consumption in idle mode no more than 80 Amperes
The connection diagram for the starter for the ten is shown above, here is its explanation:
- battery
- generator
- the starter itself
- egnition lock
| 1 – drive shaft; | 20 – contact bolts; |
| 2 – front cover bushing; | 21 – output of “positive” brushes; |
| 3 – restrictive ring; | 22 – bracket; |
| 4 – gear with the inner ring of the overrunning clutch; | 23 – brush holder; |
| 5 – overrunning clutch roller; | 24 – “positive” brush; |
| 6 – drive shaft support with liner; | 25 – armature shaft; |
| 7 – planetary gear axis; | 26 – tie rod; |
| 8 – gasket; | 27 – back cover with bushing; |
| 9 – lever bracket; | 28 – collector; |
| 10 – drive lever; | 29 – body; |
| 11 – front cover; | 30 – permanent magnet; |
| 12 – relay anchor; | 31 – armature core; |
| 13 – holding winding; | 32 – armature shaft support with liner; |
| 14 – retractor winding; | 33 – planetary gear; |
| 15 – traction relay; | 34 – central (drive) gear; |
| 16 – traction relay rod; | 35 – carrier; |
| 17 – traction relay core; | 36 – gear with internal teeth; |
| 18 – contact plate; | 37 – layering ring; |
| 19 – traction relay cover; | 38 – hub with the outer ring of the overrunning clutch. |
Solenoid relay: functions and principle of operation
The entire starting system consists of three structural elements: an electric motor, a bendix and a traction relay, where the last two act as auxiliary mechanisms. The transmission of torque from the electric motor to the gear ring of the car engine is carried out using a bendix, ensuring the engine starts.
A retractor (traction) relay is a small device that performs very important functions in the car’s body, namely
- redistributes energy between the electromagnetic relay and the starter itself;
- engages the Bendix gears;
- removes the bendix from the flywheel when the engine is turned off.
It takes very little time for the power unit to start operating. During this short period, the relay holds the Bendix gears and flywheel in engagement, while simultaneously rotating the crankshaft until starting occurs.
If you hold in this position for more time than necessary, you can break the device; if less, the engine will not be able to start.
First signs of concern:
- The starter does not start immediately, but after several test turns of the key. This indicates burning of the solenoid relay contacts. To eliminate the problem, you need to clean the contacts.
- The starter mechanism rotates, but it is too slow, and the battery is fully charged. In this case, you need to pay attention to wear of the brushes or wear of the bearing device.
- After the engine starts, the starter does not immediately turn off. This means wear on the gear teeth in the bendix or the flywheel ring.
Every 32,000 km of the vehicle, perform the following maintenance work on the starter:
1. Remove the starter from the engine. 2. Check the condition of the commutator and brushes. Make sure that the brushes do not jam in the brush holders. If the brush height is less than 6 mm, replace them. 3. Disassemble the starter. Replace worn parts. 4. When assembling, lubricate the bearings and shaft journals with engine oil. Lightly lubricate the splined part of the shaft, drive outlet bushings, pins and lever axis with Litol-24 grease.
When I was looking for why the starter might not work, I found this picture from the instruction manual for UAZ vehicles.
And so today, while my girlfriend was riding a SOKA and stalled, our ignition stopped responding, since it all started in the morning, after washing the engine, a new relay was purchased in advance, the seller said that all relays are the same, I believed him and bought a standard one five contact relay.
But that was not the case, the circuit of the standard relay is completely different. And when I tried to turn on the mass, the starter simply started spinning, at that moment I compared the diagrams on the relays. I installed the dead relay, pushed it, started it, and drove around the clock. There, in response to my request, give the required relay and after showing a photograph of what was needed, with a detailed explanation of the operation diagram:
They looked at me like I was crazy and said that the factory produces the same relays for everyone and they gave me the relay as in the first picture. In response to my attempts to explain that the circuit is not the same and that when the ground is turned on, the starter begins to spin, they gently hinted to me that, my hands are growing out of my ass, I am a useless electrician. I didn’t argue, I just turned around and drove to a store that was much further away; they immediately understood me and gave me what I needed. I connected it according to how the wires were plugged into the old relay. If anyone is interested, I found a wonderful diagram on the Internet that, even without the color of the wires, you can understand what and how.
Since I have long been faced with the problem of the color of my wires not matching some circuits, here are the contacts that the colors of my wires correspond to (UAZ 31519, engine 421800)
30 - orange+violet 85 - red 86 - black 87 - violet 87b - white
The UAZ starter is a mechanism that is necessary to start the vehicle’s power unit.
Electrical
- no discharge from the battery. In this case, it is necessary to check the battery for defects: oxidation of contacts, destruction of plates or damage to the case. Depending on the severity, there are two rescue options - recharging the battery and replacing it with a new one;
- The wires on the battery have oxidized. You just need to clean the contacts. To do this, use fine-grained sandpaper or a regular toothbrush. Clean the tips very carefully so as not to damage the outer layer;
- insufficient tension of the tips;
- open circuit between the ignition switch and the starter. The damaged section of the chain is being restored;
- short circuit in the relay coil. Eliminated by rewinding or completely replacing it;
- The armature of the device is jammed. It is necessary to install a new solenoid relay;
- Malfunction of the ignition switch contact element. This can only be solved by replacing it with a new spare part.
Mechanical - the starter works, but the crankshaft does not rotate and the engine does not start, or there is extraneous noise and grinding noise in the operation of the starter mechanism.
- the slip clutch is broken;
- the release lever has become uncoupled from the axle;
- the buffer spring has failed;
- drive ring wear;
- gear teeth worn out;
- the starter mounting screws have become loose;
- The pole lock has become loose.
