How to change a pump on a Kalina 16 valve

Characteristics of the device, symptoms of failure

This is what the pump for Kalina looks like

The pump works together with the engine. It ensures uninterrupted operation of the fuel supply and cooling systems. The first carries out the transfer of fuel from the tank to the engine, the second - forced pumping of antifreeze or antifreeze.

The water pump-impeller, located on the shaft, is covered by a housing. The shaft has ball bearings at both ends and rotates due to torque by means of a belt attached to the engine.

Symptoms of a broken water pump:

the red section of the tachometer indicates the overheating temperature of the car engine, this is confirmed by the readings of the device;
in the cabin of the Kalina car there is a persistent smell from the evaporation of antifreeze;
a sound similar to a whistle is heard quite clearly - repair or replacement of the pump is necessary;
Drops of liquid may be found under the car (to identify the problem, leave a sheet of white paper under the car overnight).

To restore the functioning of the pump, experience and special tools are required. It is advisable to entrust the work to specialists at a service station, and replace the pump with a new one.

Symptoms of a problem

A breakdown can be determined by several signs. They can appear both together and separately. Or it may not appear at all until the pump completely fails. Signs of failure are as follows:

The temperature of the coolant increases;
Bearing whistling;
Knock from the pump;
Fluid leaks on the pump or belt.

Sometimes a bearing may jam immediately. Then you can be congratulated on your large-scale repair of the gas distribution mechanism. A knocking sound when a bearing wears out is often confused with camshaft knocking, so diagnosing this symptom should be taken more carefully. Necessary tool

. To carry out repair work, you will need a set of keys, a mounting blade and special tools for unscrewing the camshaft and crankshaft. And also a device for adjusting the timing belt tension. It would be nice if you have an assistant available. Some actions are difficult to do alone.

Fuel pump: design features

Carburetor cars had mechanical pumps. The drive or dam pushed the diaphragm, in the process a vacuum was created and fuel entered the carburetor. Nowadays, almost all cars have an injection engine and an electric pump. It delivers hot food at high speed and maintains stable pressure in the system. The electric motor, together with the working rotor, pushes the fuel. The pump is located in the gasoline tank itself. During operation, fuel becomes coolant and lubricant. There are car models that have two pumps: the main one is under the hood, the worker is located in the fuel tank.

ODS is the main way to protect a machine. This is a closed-type forced circulation liquid. If the interior heating device supplies cold air, but the Kalina engine overheats, it means that there is a malfunction in the operation of the car. Components of the system:

special motor shell;
heat exchanger with electric fan;
device for maintaining a constant temperature;
suction device;
expansion tank;
contact tubes.

By looking into the plastic expansion tank, you can visually check the amount of antifreeze and antifreeze. There are special marks for high and low levels of liquids in the tank. Outside the tank, there is a pipe at the top for connecting to the heat exchanger sleeve, at the bottom - to the filling tube.

Expansion cap with breathers. The device includes inlet and outlet breathers. They are capable of providing systemic impermeability. The intake valve maintains elevated pressure in the hot engine. As the temperature rises, steam leakage decreases. The reduced pressure promotes the opening of the released breather as the car engine gradually cools.
The pump pumping antifreeze is a blade of rapid discharge. The crankshaft wheel drives the pump through a toothed belt on the timing rod. Its body consists of aluminum. The shaft rotates in a double-row ball bearing, which contains enough fuel oil for the entire warranty period. The outer ring is tightened with a self-tapping screw. The gear is pressed in at the front, the impeller, retaining ring, and oil seal are at the rear. Antifreeze or antifreeze leakage is monitored through a hole in the pump shell. This method will help identify unit malfunctions. If the pump cannot be repaired, it is replaced with an identical assembly device. The coolant corrects the redistribution of antifreeze. System cooling of paired cycles occurs as follows:
in a larger circulation circle, antifreeze penetrates through the engine shell to the radiator battery;
when moving in a small circle, antifreeze or antifreeze passes only through the cooling shell, without getting into the heat sink.

The cooling system consists of a radiator battery and a throttle heating unit. The circulation of antifreeze or antifreeze here occurs continuously, regardless of the location of the coolant valve.

Thermostat. The thermal unit and two breathers are components. There is a redistribution of the flow of antifreeze or antifreeze. When the engine is cold, the node valve redistributes the direction of fluid movement. It begins to circulate over a smaller radius, without entering the radiator. High temperatures of 85°C allow the valves to open and allow fluid to flow into the radiator. At temperatures above 100° C, the main valve is fully open, the spare valve closes. Liquid circulation occurs over a large radius.
Antifreeze or antifreeze temperature meter. This device is screwed into the cylinder head for automatic control of coolant. The sensor is connected to the temperature indicator on the instrument panel of the car. This information is sent to the controller.
Heating heat sink. Built into the engine cooling system, it heats the vehicle interior by circulating hot coolant.
The radiator consists of 2 plastic tanks in a vertical position. One of them has a partition. There are 2 more rows of rounded aluminum tubes, aligned horizontally, that pass through the cooling plates. The pipes are connected to the tanks through a rubber key. Antifreeze enters through the upper pipe and exits through the lower pipe. The inlet pipe is located next to a thin steam exhaust hose. The radiator has a casing with an electric motor. Drain plug at the bottom.
The fan maintains the temperature inside the car. As soon as the controller receives the signal, the fan is turned on via a relay.

Required materials and tools

To work you will need:

New belt.
Soft steel wire.
Socket wrench or socket number 13.
Spanners.
A pry bar or a strong screwdriver.

The alternator belt is not difficult at all if you do everything according to the method described above and follow all the recommendations.

Lada Granta is positioned by the manufacturer as one of the cheapest cars. The car entered the top 10 cars with the lowest cost, but not because of its outstanding qualities, but rather because of savings on parts. The absence of a generator belt tensioner leads to rapid wear of the latter. When is it necessary to replace it on a car with or without air conditioning?

Symptoms of a damaged water pump

Motor overheating - the pump is faulty, the drive belt is not working, the impeller is damaged.
The temperature arrow indicator is located closer to the middle. You need to stop to check the radiator. In case of inoperability, the unit and pump drive will heat up.
Noisy, smell of antifreeze in the cabin.
Low circulation of antifreeze is the result of pump destruction. Diagnosis is carried out with the engine idling; at the same time, you need to clamp and lower the outer radiator hose. During normal operation of the pump, a push of antifreeze in the hose will be felt.
Large play in the ball bearing of the pump - damage to the ball bearings.

It is necessary to change the water pump if the car's mileage is 90 thousand km.

Characteristics of the differences in the procedure for Lada Granta 8 and 16 valves

In general, there are no significant differences in the design of engines with 8 and 16 valves in the Lada Granta. However, the procedure for replacing the water pump will differ in only one way: the 8-valve model has one crankshaft pulley, and the 16-valve model has two.

Accordingly, dismantling and installing the water pump on 16-valve versions will take more time, but the replacement scheme will be identical for 8-valve models.

On a Lada Granta car with a 16-valve engine, two crankshafts are installed, and therefore the time required to replace the pump increases significantly

Identifying a faulty pump on a Lada Grant and replacing it yourself is a completely accessible procedure for any driver. The work does not require special equipment - a standard set of tools that can be found in any garage will be used.

Replacing antifreeze or antifreeze

Coolant reservoir

To perform fluid replacement work, you need to have special tools on hand to remove nuts and bolts. The Kalina car must be installed on a horizontal, level surface. If this is not possible, you should try to position the car so that its front parts are clearly visible. Work is performed in a certain sequence.

Remove the engine splash guard.
Reset the negative terminal of the battery.
Unscrew the plug from the expansion tank.
Remove the drain plug located on the cylinder block. Place a container under the drain.
Remove the ignition module along with the holder, because it interferes with access to the drain.
Remove the drain plug from the radiator battery and wait for the coolant to drain.
Tighten the drain plugs of the radiator and cylinder block.
Remove the hose from the throttle heating fitting to drain the fluid by loosening the clamps.
Pour antifreeze or antifreeze into the conservator until liquid flows from the removed hose. Now you can put the hose in place. After this, continue to fill the system with antifreeze or antifreeze. The liquid should fill the expander so that its level is a maximum of 3 cm below the specified level. Tighten the expander lock.

You need to start the engine and warm it up until the electric fan is in normal operating condition. After turning off the car engine, add coolant to the top line.

Preparatory activities

Before changing the pump on Kalina, you will have to partially empty the cooling system. Antifreeze should only be drained from the cylinder block; there is no need to touch the radiator. Unless you notice fluid leaking on the pipes, then you can change the hoses at the same time. The procedure is performed according to the following algorithm:

Remove the mudguard that protects the engine from below from dirt. It is held on by bolts with 10 mm socket heads.
Disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and the high-voltage wires from the ignition coil. Unscrew the coil mount with a 5 mm hexagon and move it to the side, freeing access to the drain plug.
Empty the cylinder block by placing a special container and unscrewing the drain plug with a 13 mm wrench. In this case, it is necessary to open the cap of the expansion tank.
If you need to empty the radiator, you should move the container under its drain neck and also unscrew the plug.

Recommendations for choosing a pump

When the time comes to replace the pump on Kalina, car enthusiasts do not know which pump to buy so as not to throw money away. When purchasing, you need to refer to car catalogs and read reviews from other car owners about the quality of the pumps they have chosen. The magazine "Behind the Wheel" provides truthful information about spare parts for the Lada Kalina. You can get acquainted with tests and inspection results, opinions about manufacturing companies.

When purchasing, pay attention to the packaging. It must be of high quality, with a warranty card and an indication of the date of manufacture. Seals and gaskets to protect against damage must also be present. All products have holographic stickers. They must be glued neatly, without scuffs. The attached instructions should contain general information about the spare part and briefly describe how to install a particular unit.

A defective item will last approximately 10 thousand km. If there are no problems with the pump after covering 100 thousand km, we can say that the quality of the purchased product is excellent. The manufacturer installs a TZA pump on the Lada Kalina; it has a long service life.

The pump in the engine of any car is the main component of the cooling system. During operation, the motor gets quite hot. To avoid overheating, the unit is cooled with liquid (antifreeze), which is forced to circulate through a closed cooling system. It is the pump that ensures the circulation of coolant.

Installation instructions for an additional electric pump

Installing an additional water pump on any car (including the Lada Priora has 16 valves) is, in principle, no different. It is necessary to place the electric pump in the section of the pipe, which is the input or output to the car’s stove and provide its power supply.

Step-by-step instructions for installing this additional component are as follows:

Provide access to the heater pipes under the hood of the car by removing components that interfere with operation.
Compress one of the rubber pipes that comes out of the heater (stove), which is done to prevent coolant from leaking out, or drain antifreeze (antifreeze) from the entire system.
Cut part of this pipe to the length of the corresponding pump being installed.
The length of the fittings is not taken into account due to the fact that they fit into the pipes.
It is necessary to select the diameter of the fittings on the electric pump in advance to obtain a high-quality connection.
Secure the rubber pipes to the pump fittings using metal clamps.
Attach the additional electric pump to a pre-selected location under the hood of the car (indicated above) using special fasteners.
Connect the power supply to the pump by selecting the options listed above, or install a separate switch.
Start the engine and check the tightness of the connections, as well as the functionality of the electric pump.
Install all parts that were removed before installing the pump.

Functions and purpose of a pump in a car

Normal engine operation is impossible without a cooling system that circulates coolant through the pipeline (system components, pipes and hoses). The purpose of the pump (water pump) is to ensure constant movement of antifreeze throughout the entire system while the engine is running. If at some point the pump stops functioning, this will immediately disrupt the thermal conditions of the engine. In this case, the coolant will boil, which can lead to serious engine damage.

Structurally, the pump is a fairly simple structure, consisting of a metal body and a pulley and impeller located on the shaft. The pulley is driven by a belt from the engine crankshaft. An impeller is located on a shaft inside the housing, which moves the coolant with blades from one part of the cooling system to another. This is how the motor is cooled.

What types of pumps are there?

The tasks of a car pump (pump) are as follows:

constantly maintain a stable temperature throughout the vehicle’s engine cooling system;
level out sudden temperature changes in the cooling system (this way, the effect of “thermal shock” is eliminated when there is a sudden change, usually an increase, in engine speed);
ensure constant movement of antifreeze through the engine cooling system (this not only ensures engine cooling, but also allows the stove to operate normally).

Regardless of the model of the machine and the motor, these units are structurally similar to each other, differing only in size, mounting method, and most importantly in performance and type of impeller. However, they are usually divided into only two categories - with a plastic and metal impeller. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Which pump impeller is better?

Most modern pumps have a plastic impeller. Its advantages lie in its lower mass compared to metal, and therefore lower inertia. Accordingly, the engine needs to spend less energy to spin the impeller. Often, so-called turbo pumps have a plastic impeller. Moreover, they have a closed design.

However, plastic impellers also have disadvantages. One of them is that over time, under the influence of high temperatures of antifreeze, the shape of the blades changes, which leads to a deterioration in the efficiency of the impeller (that is, the entire pump). In addition, the blades can simply wear out over time or even fall off the rod and spin. This is especially true for inexpensive water pumps.

As for the iron impeller, its only drawback is that it has great inertia. That is, the engine spends more energy to spin it up, in particular at the time of start-up. But it has a long service life, practically does not wear out over time, and does not change the shape of the blades. In some cases, it is noted that if the pump is cheap/poor quality, then rust or large pockets of corrosion may form on the blades over time. Especially if low-quality antifreeze is used or ordinary water (with a high salt content) is used instead.

Therefore, which pump to choose is up to the car owner to decide. To be fair, it is worth noting that most modern foreign cars have a pump with a plastic impeller. However, they are made with high quality, and over time they do not wear off or change their shape.

When choosing a pump, you also need to pay attention to the height of the impeller. From general considerations we can say that the smaller the gap between the block and the impeller itself, the better

The lower the impeller, the lower the performance, and vice versa. And if the performance is low, this will not only lead to problems with engine cooling (especially at high engine speeds), but also to problems in the operation of the interior heater.

Also, when choosing a pump, you should always pay attention to the seal and bearing. The first should provide reliable sealing, and the second should work smoothly at any speed and for as long as possible

To extend the service life of the oil seal, it is necessary to use high-quality antifreeze, which includes oil seal lubricant.

Most often, the pump body for passenger cars is made of aluminum. This is due to the fact that it is easier to make parts of complex shapes with complex technological requirements from this material.

Water pumps for trucks are often made of cast iron, since they are designed for low speeds, but it is important to ensure a long service life of the device

How to determine if the pump is faulty on Kalina

Despite its simple design, the pump may fail sooner or later. The first signal of incorrect operation of the water pump is extraneous noise that occurs when the engine is running. On the Lada-Kalina, the service life of the device is 60 thousand kilometers or after 48 months of operation. When one of these indicators is reached, it is recommended to replace the part without waiting for signs of malfunction to appear.

A fairly common reason for pump failure is the appearance of extraneous noise, which is associated with bearing wear.

But there are situations when a pump breakdown occurs much earlier than the specified period. Assessing the performance of a node is quite simple. To do this you need:

Start and warm up the engine to operating temperature.
Put a glove on your hand and squeeze the upper radiator pipe. When the pump is working, pressure will immediately be felt, which is due to the circulation of liquid through the system.
If there appears to be little or no pressure, the pump should be inspected in more detail.

To assess the external condition of the pump, you will need to dismantle the timing drive casing and make sure it is in good condition. In this case, you should keep in mind the following nuances:

If a coolant leak is observed at the junction of the device housing and the engine, it means that the oil seal has failed.
The appearance of noise from under the hood when the engine is running indicates high bearing wear.
There should be no axial movement when rocking the drive gear. If there is play, then normal operation of the pump is impossible.

A fairly common failure is the appearance of a coolant leak due to a damaged oil seal.

In these simple ways, the performance of the pump is determined. Even if you have no experience in car repair, you can find a faulty part. If it has been discovered that the pump has some problems, then there is no need to delay repairs, since simple malfunctions can lead to a major overhaul of the motor.

How to lubricate the pump on Kalina

If we talk about servicing a water pump, then we are talking about lubricating the bearings of the device. The design uses two bearings located on the shaft. They don't require much lubrication to function properly, but they are necessary. When working “dry”, the wear of the part increases sharply. With some experience, the pump can be lubricated without removing it from the car. All you need to do is follow these steps:

Remove the timing cover.
Remove dirt from the pump and its seating area.
Apply a little Litol-24 lubricant to the housing joints.

Depending on the installed water pump, the product may have a lubrication hole.

High-quality lubrication can be performed during repair work, when parts that have failed are replaced. But if you lubricate the part in the manner described, you can also provide the bearings with the necessary amount of lubricant.

Disassembly and installation of a new part

First of all, you need to gain access to the timing mechanism, for which, using a No. 10 key, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the protective plastic cover. If you are disassembling a 16-valve Kalina model, you will have to remove 2 covers by unscrewing 5 bolts with a No. 5 hexagon.

Before further disassembly, you need to align all the marks on the crankshaft flywheel and the camshaft gear.

Otherwise, during the work you can disrupt gas distribution and create a new problem for yourself.

To align the marks, it is best to jack up the 1st front wheel, engage 4th gear and turn the crankshaft by turning the wheel manually. Before doing this, do not forget to remove the plug from the gearbox side that covers the marks on the flywheel. The mark on it should coincide with the groove on the body, and the camshaft gear mark should be vertical at the top opposite the slot. Further disassembly is carried out in this order:

using wrench No. 17, loosen the roller and remove the timing belt from the camshaft gear (in a 16-valve engine with 2 gears);
Using the same key, unscrew the bolt holding the gear, wedging it through the holes;
remove the gear (both in the 16V model) without losing the key;
dismantle the internal protective plate, in an 8V engine it is held on by 2 bolts, 16V by 5;
unscrew the 3 bolts securing the pump and pull it out of the socket;
remove the remains of the old gasket from the cylinder block.

If a cork gasket is supplied with the new pump, then it does not need to be lubricated with anything, but it is better to place a cardboard gasket on the sealant. The new pump must be inserted into the socket in the same position as the old one and secured with bolts. After this, you can put all the parts back, put on and tighten the belt. Double-check that the marks match before replacing the covers.

To prevent air pockets from forming when filling antifreeze, you need to remove the small pipe from the throttle valve heating unit. Filling is carried out until liquid flows out of it. Upon completion of assembly, it is recommended to check the system by starting the engine and warming it up to operating temperature.

Drive 16kl. Kalina is like riding a powder keg, you never know when it will explode! I'm talking about the meeting of valves and pistons...

This can happen for several reasons - the main one is the destruction of the timing belt support (Polish) roller. The pump may also jam and, in very rare cases, the tension (Chinese) roller may fail. The belt is very reliable and can only break if hit by a foreign object.

In general, the plant declares the service life of the entire timing assembly is 200 thousand km. and does not imply replacement and inspection of rollers or timing belt during the warranty period. However, I don’t think that there will be such brave souls who will want to check the declared resource) I periodically looked through the relevant topics on the forums and wondered how to protect myself and avoid expensive engine repairs... And after all, I encountered valves with pistons for everyone at completely different mileages. Some people have 20 thousand km. Some people drive 70, others drive more than 100 and have no problems.

And since no one has any doubts about the belt, everyone is mainly thinking about what to replace the rollers with, there are many options - some fit without modifications, with some you have to put washers in and use special bolts. I didn’t bother to understand all this variety and decided to replace the set with exactly the same one at 60 thousand mileage. At the same time, I decided to replace the pump and the belt and pulley of the generator in order to forget about this problem of belts and rollers for a long time.

I ordered everything from Exist except the pump; I bought it at the Lada retail store, which is now plentiful all over the country.

The kit itself turned out like this:

Manufacturer - Article - Name

— price

1. Gates - K015631XS - Timing belt with rollers, kit

— 2940 rub.2.
Gates - 6PK1018 - V-ribbed belt (alternator)
- 293 rub.3.
Ina - 531 0760 10 - Tensioner roller (generator)
- 510 rub.4.
TZA - 21126-1307010-20 - Water pump VAZ (1.6 l., 16 cells)
- 750 rub.

Original (factory) Gates rollers and belt are sold only as a set, and the main thing here is not to run into a fake, of which there are apparently quite a few. How to distinguish a fake from an original can be found HERE:

Gates kit - K015631XS consists of:

— timing belt — 5631XS (137 teeth)— Timing belt tensioner roller “Powergripr” (T43147)— Parasitic/drive roller, timing belt “PowerGripR” (T42150)

The Lada Kalina pump is a pump responsible for circulating water by cooling it. The unit is located in the front part of the cylinder block. If the pump is deficient, the motor overheats, which leads to boiling and breakdowns.

Additional pump for Lada-Kalina

Some “Kalinovodov” are not satisfied with the standard heating of the cabin in winter. In order to somehow correct the situation and ensure the flow of hot air at idle, they resort to installing an additional pump. The part also provides better cooling in hot weather, especially when idling in traffic jams.

An additional pump avoids the formation of air in the system. As a rule, a pump from a Gazelle, which is structurally equipped with an electric motor, is used as such a device. Install it in the gap in the small circle of the cooling system on the return pipe of the stove.

An additional pump is installed in the gap in the return pipe of the stove to increase the efficiency of heating the interior in winter.

How to install an additional pump

For installation (in addition to the pump itself), you will need an additional relay and a button with which to control the device, hoses of different lengths, fasteners and sealant. You can choose any suitable place to secure the part. Quite often, car enthusiasts install a pump under the battery or under the transmission bolts. In the first case, the device is installed horizontally, in the second - vertically. Before installing the hoses, you must complete the following steps:

Cut the hoses to the required length depending on the installation location and degrease them.
Before installation, treat the mounting areas of the pipes with sealant.
Secure the clamps evenly, slightly moving away from the edge of the hose.
Drain the antifreeze.
In the lower part of the engine compartment, find two pipes: one supplies coolant to the heater, the other takes it away. Remove the outlet hose and replace it with the pipe from the additional pump.
Attach the pump to the gearbox housing. Mounting options may vary depending on available mounting hardware. These can be clamps or brackets.

Self-check the condition of the alternator belt

Before replacing an implement belt, drivers should perform a visual inspection to determine if replacement is necessary. To perform this, it must be placed in a stationary state. To prevent the car from rolling during inspection, clamps should be installed under the wheels. The generator belt is located in the engine compartment, and is tensioned on the pulleys of the attachment. The entire product must be checked. Having examined one area, inspect all the others sequentially, turning the belt. You can make a mark at the place where the inspection began.

The following signs indicate the need for replacement:

cracks and abrasions on the surface, both internal and external;
frayed, sides;
peeling of rubber from rubber;
mechanical damage;
traces of oil and working fluids are on the surface.

During inspection, you also need to check the belt tension. If it is loosely tensioned, the generator will not work at full capacity. Too much tension causes premature wear of the bearings and strap. To check the tension, press the belt in a place free from equipment. With a force of approximately 10 kg, the deflection should not be more than 7-8 cm.

If the tension is insufficient, then you need to know how to tighten the belt. The tensioner screw acts as a regulator; it is used to perform tension (video author – Remgar).

When replacing a belt, it is advisable to change the tensioner pulley, which should also be inspected. It should be free of scratches, chips, play, and deformation. The roller should rotate freely without delay. You should not neglect regularly checking the condition of the belt drive.

If the belt breaks on the way, further movement is only possible using the battery. But even if it is fully charged, you can move it for no more than one hour. Therefore, it is recommended to have a spare alternator belt in the trunk in case it breaks.

Engine valves VAZ-21116

The average consumer has access to only those that come with the car from official documents. What follows from them? Open the Grants service book. Replacing the timing belt - at 75 thousand kilometers for an 8-valve engine, not a word about the 16-valve belt! The same situation is with Kalina - I came across a book where there is nothing to say about one engine, but on the other we only check the condition of the belt, but there is no talk of a planned replacement. It’s even more fun with the Priora - there are service books where there is not a word at all about the gas distribution mechanism, but the air conditioning compressor belt is mentioned in almost every maintenance coupon.

With Vesta and Xray, progress is obvious - at 45, 75, 105, 135 and 165 thousand we adjust the gaps in the gas distribution mechanism. And for the first time we plan to remember the timing belt along with the rollers for 180 thousand kilometers! This is for 16-valve engines VAZ-21129, 21179 and 8-valve Vesta VAZ-11189. I can’t do without the quote: “2.11. Replace the timing belt along with the rollers. 2.12. Replace the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Replace the toothed belt, tensioner and support roller (for the VAZ-11189 8-cl. engine, only the tensioner) of the engine gas distribution mechanism drive. Adjust the tension of the toothed belt." Not only is the oil oil (we change the same belt twice), but of all the parts, they didn’t remember the most vulnerable one - the pump!

Step-by-step work on replacing the timing belt

Before you begin replacing the timing belt, you need to prepare your work area and all the necessary tools. For work we will need:

New timing belt.
The key is "10", "17", "19".
Flathead screwdriver.
Tensioner pulley key.

Execution order

Open the hood and remove the plastic engine cover.
We dismantle the belt protection by unscrewing three bolts to “10”.
Remove the right wheel and protection.
This is what the timing belt diagram looks like, according to it we set the marks.
The location of all marks is shown schematically.
We turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt until the marks on the pulley and the tendril on the timing cover align. Marks "C and D".
Make sure that the marks on the camshaft and the protective cover also match. Labels "A and B".
We remove the plug on the upper part of the clutch housing using a screwdriver and make sure that the marks meet there too.
The marks are marked with arrows.
We fix the “crankshaft” from turning, insert a flat-head screwdriver into the hole between the flywheel teeth.
We fix the screwdriver where the arrow points.
We unscrew the generator pulley bolt while holding the screwdriver, then remove the pulley from its place.
Using a “17” wrench, unscrew the fixing bolt.
The next step will be to loosen the idler pulley nut.
Loosen the nut so that the belt is as free as possible.
Remove the belt from its seat.
We dismantle the weakened belt.
If you need to remove the tension roller, unscrew the fastening bolt and remove it from its seat.

Installing a new belt

We put the belt on the crankshaft pulley.
We begin to tension the two branches of the belt, first fix it on the pump pulley, then wind it by the tension roller.
Then it drives it onto the camshaft.
We tighten the belt using a tension roller, while simultaneously fixing the latter using a special key. (Rotate the roller counterclockwise).
We make sure that all the teeth lie flat on the gears.
Tighten the generator pulley mounting bolt and turn the crankshaft clockwise by giving one revolution.
We make sure that all the marks match and remain in place.

Engine Cooling Water Pump

Here it is, a mine - a water pump. Refers to the cooling system, but is driven by a timing belt. If the pump wedges due to the death of the bearing, it will cut off the teeth on the belt, and then there will be destruction in the motor. And they “forgot” to mention this detail in the routine maintenance section of all service books. What to do with it? The consumer can only guess. Should we wait for death from natural wear and tear on a plug-in motor? Stupidity. And if changed, then when? It seems that the mine is not even the water pump itself, but the complete disregard for it in all the official VAZ “literature” for the consumer.

New VAZ engines are now equipped with high-quality timing belts from well-known brands. I believe that if no oil gets on it, it will cost 180 thousand. But is the difference in components really so great that on the 8-valve VAZ-11186 for Granta the belt must be changed at the 75th thousand, and on its closest relative VAZ-11189 at the 180th?

Let's continue the research. The pulleys are not demolished at all. Pressure roller bearing up to 180 thousand? Let's admit it, although it's hard to believe. But why change all this equipment at the 180th thousand, if the estimated life of the engine is 220 thousand km? Refresh before demise or major overhaul? If you don’t believe me, look at the photo taken in the workshops where VAZ engines are produced.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, replacing a pump is not such a difficult process. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and decide in advance which pump is better. We recommend checking the tightness of the system by warming up the LADA Kalina engine until it reaches the operating temperature. If no leaks or noises are detected, then we boldly hit the road.

To avoid being blown up by a mine, it is enough to know where it is laid. Let's play sapper and find out when you really need to change coolant pumps and timing belts on VAZ engines.

Domestic engines for Grant, Kalin, Prior, Vest and Iksreev, with the exception of VAZ-11183, belong to the “plug-in” category. What this means is that when the timing belt breaks, the pistons meet the valves. Read - it exploded and led the engine to destruction, which was expensive to repair.

Routine maintenance for VAZ engines.

Nowadays, new engines also use Korean pumps, which are rumored to be of better quality. But even if you cut me, not a single pump of 200 thousand comes out. I do not believe! Moreover, I see complete confusion in the service books, the lack of a unified approach to servicing the same gas distribution mechanisms from model to model and, most importantly, an indifferent attitude towards the consumer. Not from all factory workers - from those who are responsible for a specific direction and are killing the work of other creators of cars at the Volga Automobile Plant with stupid pieces of paper. But if the charge is planted, and the specialists did not help, then we will clear the mines ourselves.

How to change license plate lights

Lada Kalina Hatchback UltraViolet Logbook -062- How to drain antifreeze

Replacing the license plate light bulbs on the Lada Kalina is a simple task, so you can easily handle it yourself. By changing the lights yourself, you will not only save money on the services of workshop specialists, but you will also be confident in the excellent quality of the work.

Open the trunk of the car and pry the lamp on the left side with a flat-blade screwdriver. This will free him from the latch;

Step #1

Push the light on the right side and move it to the left. After some pressing, it should come out easily;

Step #2

Pull out the lamp along with the power wires. This will make it easier to replace the license plate lamps of the Lada Kalina;

Slightly lift the plastic clip up and remove the power plug;

Step #3

Carefully turn the white housing of the Lada Kalina license plate light bulb counterclockwise and completely pull out the base;

Step #4

Pull out the lamp itself. To do this, simply pull it to the side. After this, remove the lampshade from the base.

Step #5

Install a new lampshade in place of the burnt out bulb. The job is done in the same way as removing a light bulb, but in reverse order. Make sure the new light is lit.

Korean-made coolant pump for VAZ-21179 engine

The owner of any elderly foreign car with a timing belt will confirm that repairmen insist that during a scheduled belt change, they replace both the pump and the pressure rollers with bearing assemblies. And these parts are often sold as a set. Moreover, at a discount - the whole set is cheaper than the belt, rollers, and pump separately.

I don’t want to once again convince you that the stingy pays twice, but over the years I have come to the conclusion that Western manufacturers include in the regulations changing the belt not because of the belt as such, but because of the pump and tensioner bearings. They just needed a reason to reliably replace the entire set of parts associated with the camshaft drive, and they found it.

I propose to do the same with our engines. Why? Formally, at each maintenance it would be necessary to remove the cover and inspect the timing belt and water pump. You can see a tear in the belt, as well as a leak on the pump. In both cases, the part is changed without delay. But this is a malfunction. And if everything is outwardly normal, the ideal option is to include preventive replacement in the regulations.

Determining the performance of a part

In some ways, the water pump is a pretty tricky part. Without disassembling the timing belt assembly, it is not so easy to determine its performance.

But there are some signs of a pump malfunction that require you to pay close attention to it:

At an early stage of wear, bearing noise appears. Not every auto mechanic, let alone an ordinary car enthusiast, will be able to distinguish it. But if you managed to catch this noise, then there is a reason to look under the plastic cover of the gas distribution mechanism.
Wet marks under the timing cover and a belt shiny with moisture indicate that antifreeze is gradually penetrating into the compartment. Naturally, through the pump.
The belt is not in the center of the camshaft gear, but is shifted to the very edge. This happens when, due to play in the pump bearing, the gear warps and the belt slides to the side.
The coolant in the expansion tank of the Lada Kalina gradually decreases, and wet spots are constantly observed under the car directly under the timing mechanism.

Fuel filters Kalina

Like many other VAZ cars, the Lada Kalina power system is equipped with two stages of fuel filtration. The coarse cleaning function is assigned to a mesh filter or “mesh”, as it is commonly called. Installed together with the entire fuel module in the gas tank, the mesh protects the electric fuel pump and does not allow large debris to pass through, which can cause a breakdown or clog the fuel line.

For Lada Kalina you need a mesh with a cut. An inexpensive part costing no more than 50–100 rubles. plays an important role. A clogged filter makes it difficult for fuel to flow into the fuel pump, which is forced to operate at higher speeds in order to maintain the required pressure in the power system. This mode can cause premature failure and replacement of the pump at a cost of about 2,500 rubles.

Before entering the injectors, gasoline goes through one more stage - a fine fuel filter or simply a fuel filter, as it is called in official descriptions and manuals. The power system of the Lada Kalina uses a conventional gasoline filter for injection cars with fittings for hoses equipped with clamping clips. Parts with threaded connections are not suitable.

The market is saturated with fuel filters from various manufacturers. Their prices range from 150–500 rubles depending on the brand. Some manufacturers and sellers value their goods even more expensive. While researching the market, experts from the magazine “Behind the Wheel” did not find any significant differences between the products. Among the main parameters of gasoline purification filters are screening fineness and performance at a given pressure.

All filters that attracted the attention of specialists successfully cope with the retention of pollutants larger than 10 microns in size and easily pass 2 liters of fuel through the filter element every minute

Choosing a fuel filter of a certain brand does not have a significant impact on the quality of cleaning. Provided that the filter is replaced in a timely manner, price-conscious motorists do not worsen the operating conditions of the engine. The purchase of expensive products is justified if improved parameters are required: minimal screening fineness and a large area of the filter element.

Photo gallery: fuel filters from various manufacturers

Kalina was the first VAZ model, the interior of which was designed using mathematical models using the latest equipment. This provided the compact car with surprisingly good ergonomics - in terms of space and ease of seating, this car cannot be compared with previous front-wheel drive vehicles, although the base, in fact, remained the same!

Oleg Polazhinets

Wheels

replacing a pump for a VAZ 8 valve internal combustion engine

If antifreeze begins to leave the expander, it means the pump needs to be replaced. We carry out what remains to be done for our client operations according to the subsequent plan.

The timing belt protection shell is removed, using a screwdriver, three bolts are pulled out: the left one in the center, two at the rear.
The Kalina engine has eight valves. The pump pressure guard must be removed, but the camshaft gear must be removed first.

Change

pump completed

Unscrew the fastening screws to loosen the strap. The crankshaft and timing gears are aligned according to marks, so you need to try to make sure that the loose belt does not slip a few teeth on both gears.
The timing gears are removed, then the fastening protection bolts - two middle ones, three lower ones. The bottom bolts hold the pump.
The protection is dismantled and the pump is pulled out using a screwdriver. The fastener connections are cleaned of dirt and rust.
Installation of the pump is carried out in reverse order, the gasket is lubricated with sealant.