Priora Dim Lighting Instrument and Interior Lighting Additional unit

Let's consider such a problem in a Lada Priora car as a non-functioning instrument panel (dashboard). I’ll tell you a case from the practice of a car service. One Priora owner's instrument panel suddenly stopped working, the lights came on, and all the arrows were dead. He did not find out why this suddenly happened, but simply bought another one at a disassembly site and put it in place of the broken one. After some time, it also stopped working, and in the end he had to go to a car service for diagnostics.

The cause of this malfunction was found out; the individual coil was broken to ground, i.e. 25,000 volts hit the ground, and accordingly all the electronics went crazy. A similar problem occurred on the Opel Vectra A, where in addition to the instrument panel, it was still impossible to connect the diagnostic tool. The problem was not with the coils, but with the fact that the high-voltage wires have a very high resistance, their general condition was very deplorable, this led to the fact that the slider in the distributor heated up and began to “break through” to ground.

Here is a broken coil on a Priora:

How was the fault determined?

We immediately heard misfires from the exhaust, and only then began to remove the connectors from the coils and, using a rebuild method, found the problem cylinder that had misfires.

Air conditioner fault codes on Priora

If the air conditioner light on a VAZ Priora is blinking, the malfunction can be determined based on the error code read from the on-board computer.
Depending on the code, the causes of the malfunction are as follows: 9338 - the temperature sensor located in the passenger compartment is faulty; the sensor wire is broken or the connector is oxidized;

9337 - the temperature sensor located in the cabin, or the wire going to it is shorted to ground;

9348 - the sensor recording the ambient temperature is faulty, or the electrical circuit for its connection is broken;

9347 - the sensor circuit that records the ambient temperature is shorted to ground;

9378 - the evaporator sensor is faulty or the electrical circuit going to it is broken.

9377 - the electrical circuit of the evaporator sensor is shorted to ground;

9358 - the wire coming from the radiator sensor of the heating system is shorted to ground;

9412 - short circuit in the electrical circuit of the air mixer micro-reducer;

9413 - the electrical circuit of the micro-reducer is broken;

9420 - the electrical circuit of the micro-reducer winding is closed;

9426 - the electrical circuit of the micro-reducer winding is broken;

9440 - the power supply circuit of the additional resistor that regulates the speed of the heater fan is broken;

9860 - overvoltage of the on-board network;

9861 — low voltage on-board network;

9607 - malfunction of the air conditioning system controller.

Auto-assistance

Pinout, tuning, lighting and removal of the VAZ-2114 instrument panel
An instrument panel and several switches for various additional devices are installed on the front panel of the Lada Priora car. If you look at the instrument panel from left to right, then it contains: tachometer, speedometer, coolant temperature indicator, fuel level indicator in the gas tank. There is a liquid crystal display under the speedometer, and below it, along the entire length of the dashboard, there are 16 warning lights. Two more turn signal indicator lamps are located at the top left and right of the speedometer. All instruments and warning lamps operate from appropriate sensors, and an electronic control unit takes part in data transmission.

Malfunctions that cause malfunctions in the operation of the instrument panel are purely electrical and are difficult to find without the appropriate knowledge. The following case can be cited as an example. The driver wiped dust from the front panel and instrument panel glass with a microfiber cloth. After these actions, when the ignition was turned on, the instrument panel refused to work at all. All instrument needles were at zero. He searched for the cause of this phenomenon and the elimination of this malfunction for quite a long time, but still found it. Apparently, a microfiber cloth, when moving over a plastic surface, creates a magnetic field, which leads to failure of the instrument panel. And fixing this malfunction is quite simple; you just need to remove the negative terminal from the battery for 10 seconds. But how much time was wasted in order for this rag, which is the cause of this malfunction, to be thrown into the trash.

A complete failure of the instrument panel can also result from the failure of the 7.5 amp fuse F10; in this case, the interior lamp and brake lights will also not light up. So it’s quite easy to check it without even opening the mounting block.

If only one device does not work, then you need to start looking for the cause of this malfunction by searching and checking the functionality of the sensor that powers this device. But again, all signals from the sensors to the dashboard instruments go through the electronic control unit. And if replacing the sensor does not give positive results, then you will have to check the electronic unit and the instrument panel itself, and here you cannot do without specialists.

The only thing the driver can do on the instrument panel is to check and, if necessary, replace a burnt-out warning light bulb. Sometimes the cause of the malfunction is simply poor contact in the connecting blocks of the wires. The driver can also check their condition himself.

The more complex the filling becomes on modern cars, the more difficult it is for the driver to find the cause and eliminate any malfunctions that arise. In these cases, knowledge and fairly easy access to information about the causes of these malfunctions are needed.

Cooling system or motor?

Before you begin troubleshooting the heating of the furnace, it is necessary to eliminate the impact of breakdowns of the cooling system and engine. Only then can you begin to figure out why the stove mode switch on the Priora does not work. To do this, we check the antifreeze level and engine operation. First step: look into the expansion tank and determine the coolant level. Then turn on the engine and warm it up for a while. This will allow you to determine whether the thermostat is functioning correctly. Just touch the thick pipes leading to the radiator.

If you find that the top pipe is hot, this indicates that the device is functioning normally. A cold pipe is a sign that the thermostat is not working properly and you will need to replace it. This part is inexpensive, so replacement will be easy. A loose expansion tank cap is another reason why the engine remains cold. Because of this, the Priora stove switch may not work. Just replace this part.

The cooling system of Lada Priora is slightly different from the tenth model; it practically does not create an air lock. It can be caused by incomplete system insulation or antifreeze poured into an empty expansion tank. Solving the problem is not difficult. Remove the reservoir cap, stand on a hill with your front wheels and accelerate.

Diagnostics using the built-in BC

Dashboard lighting: how to do it yourself

To view the error codes, you need to find the daily mileage reset button on the dashboard, press it and, holding it, turn the ignition key. The self-diagnosis mode will turn on. All arrows on the instruments should move from minimum to maximum values ​​and back, and all positions on the LCD display should light up. You need to look: if any position does not light up or the arrow on any device does not move, then you should check the corresponding sensors, their networks or display for malfunctions.

Priora on-board computer

In the same mode, press any button for switching modes of the built-in BC 2 times, after which digital codes may appear on the liquid crystal display:

• 2 - very strong voltage in the BS;
• 3 - errors in the fuel level sensor system in the gas tank;
• 4 - error in the coolant temperature sensor system;
• 5 - error in the air temperature sensor system outside the car;
• 6 — motor overheating;
• 7 — emergency low oil pressure;
• 8 - malfunctions in the brake system;
• 9 - battery is low;
• E - error in the data packet stored in the EEPROM.

Many drivers ask how to reset error codes on a Lada Priora. Perhaps their built-in BC is faulty, since a working on-board computer automatically exits the diagnostic mode after 30 seconds if you do not press any control buttons.

Why does the instrument lighting not work on the Priora?

How to replace light bulbs on a Priora instrument panel

On a VAZ 2170 Priora car, lamps without base lamps are used to illuminate the instrument panel. Each lamp is installed in a special socket, with which they can be removed from the socket and installed back in place. To prevent the lamp socket from jumping out of the socket while the car is moving, when installing it in the socket, it is fixed by turning it clockwise.

If only part of the instrument panel is not illuminated, then one of the backlight lamps has either burned out or lost contact with the path through which electric current is supplied to it. To eliminate this malfunction, the instrument panel will have to be removed.

In case of loss of lighting of the entire panel and simultaneous failure of the devices located on it, it is necessary to check the F10 (7.5A) fuse in the mounting block and the fastening of the ground wire.

If only the dashboard lighting on the Lada Priora does not light up completely, and the rest of the instruments and warning lamps are working, then you need to get to the plug connector and check whether contact No. 18, through which power is supplied to the lighting lamps, has oxidized. If everything is normal with the contact, it means that the track on the plateau from which the lamps are powered has burned out.

The driver who can disassemble the instrument panel can fix this malfunction himself by gluing a piece of foil to the burnt area with tape, having previously cleaned the ends of the track to ensure contact.

If you know how to disassemble the panel, you can completely change the backlight

Replacing light bulbs is often accompanied by replacing the green filter in the display; for this purpose, you need to disassemble it and install a filter of a different color or leave the backlight on white.

Tuning the center console often comes down to the fact that the driver seeks to eliminate unpleasant creaking. To do this, you need to remove the console lining, cover the edges of the lining, the place of contact with the panel, and the edges of the lining of the area under and above the stove control with madeline or polyurethane foam insulation. It will not be superfluous to tape the pocket, because it will become a little heavier and will not rattle.

Additional block

Additional relays are mounted on a bar and located under the dashboard, near the front passenger's feet. To get to them, you need to remove the right tunnel lining. Next to the additional relays is the electronic engine control unit (ECU).

If its connector interferes with access to the relay, disconnect it by first removing the negative terminal from the battery.

Circuit breakers

F1 (15 A) – main relay circuit, starter blocking.

F2 (7.5 A) – power circuit of the electronic control unit (ECU).

F3 (15 A) – electric fuel pump. If the fuel pump has stopped pumping (this can be determined by the absence of a sound when the ignition is turned on), check together with relay K2. There may also be problems with the immobilizer, it blocks the pump, see information about F20. If the wiring, this fuse and the relay are good, most likely the fuel pump itself has failed. To remove it, you need to disconnect the battery, remove the rear seat cushion, unscrew the cover, ring and fuel hoses, then carefully remove the entire fuel pump.

K1 – main relay.

K2 – electric fuel pump relay. See above about F3.

Fuse box in the passenger compartment of VAZ-2170, -2171, -2172

The fuse box in Priora is located at the bottom of the dashboard, on the left side of the steering wheel. To get to it, you need to open the cover, which is held on by three latches. Rotate each locking knob 90 degrees and pull the lid down and it will snap open.

Fuses in the interior mounting block

F1 (25 A) - radiator cooling fan . If your fan does not work, check its motor by applying 12 V directly to it from the battery. If the engine is working properly, then most likely the problem is in the wiring or connectors. Check the serviceability of relay K1.

The fan in the Priora usually turns on at a temperature of 105-110 degrees. Do not allow the engine to overheat, watch the arrow of the temperature sensor.

If the fan runs constantly and does not turn off, check the coolant temperature sensor located on the thermostat. If you remove the connector from the working sensor, the fan should turn on. Check the wiring to this temperature sensor, as well as the contacts of relay K1, move this relay, clean the contacts. If this is the case, replace it with a new relay.

F2 (25 A) - heated rear window . Check together with fuse F11 and relay K2. If the rear window does not fog up, the heating element threads may have broken. Inspect all the threads and if you find a break, seal it with special glue or varnish, which can be bought at car dealerships for 200-300 rubles. Check the connection contacts at the terminals to the heating elements at the edges of the glass, as well as the switch on the dashboard and the wiring from it to the rear window.

Replacing light bulbs yourself

So, on your Priora the arrow indicators are not illuminated or the information on the LCD display is barely visible. One or more backlight bulbs have definitely burned out, and now we will try to replace them ourselves. In order to get to these bulbs, you need to remove the instrument panel.

Removing the instrument panel

To work, you will need a Phillips screwdriver about 10 cm long. A longer one will do, but it will be inconvenient to work in cramped conditions. First you need to remove the decorative trim of the dashboard. It is secured with 4 screws, the two lower ones being covered with a decorative trim under the steering column. The cover is secured with two latches at the top and three swivel fasteners. If you have ever looked into the mounting block, say, to replace fuses, then you can handle dismantling the cover in a few seconds.

After removing the decorative trim, you will get to the two lower screws that secure another plastic trim - the dashboard trim. Unscrew them.

Now find the two top screws - they are recessed into the panel. It is quite difficult to get into there with a long screwdriver (although it is possible), so I suggested stocking up on a short tool.

Unscrew these screws and the cover will come off easily.

In order to remove this trim, you do not need to dismantle the steering wheel! It is enough to install it in the lower position.

All that remains is to remove the Priora indicator panel itself. It is attached with two screws, which you can easily see when you remove the cover.

We unscrew them and carefully pull out the shield, to which there is a harness of wires connected through the green block - connector. The connector is very convenient: to disconnect it, just press the latch with a screwdriver and turn the lever

Disconnecting the PP power cable connector

Disconnect the connector and remove the instrument panel. We place it face down and see the back of the five light bulbs - these are the backlight bulbs.

Rear side of the Priora instrument panel

In order to remove the light bulb, you need to lightly press it and turn it 90 degrees counterclockwise. Take out the burnt ones and install new ones in their place.

Which lamps are suitable

Depending on the year of manufacture, the Lada Priora instrument panel is equipped with two types of backlight bulbs:

1. The bulb of the light bulb is simply inserted into the socket, which is a kind of base.
2. The bulb is inserted at the factory, and its leads are spot welded to this cartridge.

Non-separable (left) and collapsible light bulbs for illuminating the Priora instrument panel

The collapsible design is convenient because you don’t need to buy the entire light bulb assembly; you just need to stock up on bulbs, which are sold separately.

In the second case, you have two options:

1. Buy a light bulb with an assembled socket.
2. Buy a light bulb with long leads and, after biting off the burnt one, solder a new one.

Of course, the first option is simpler in terms of installing the lamp, but will cost more. The second option is suitable for those who know how to hold a soldering iron in their hands.

Removing the instrument panel

To remove the shield you will need a flathead and Phillips screwdriver.

Unscrew the two top screws (as shown in the picture), then carefully remove the panel under the steering column. It is held on top by clamps, and on the bottom by 3 fasteners that just need to be turned.

Under the panel we see 2 more self-tapping screws for fastening the shield; we also unscrew them. Now lower the steering wheel to the lowest position and remove the plastic cover of the shield.

Now all that remains is to unscrew the two screws holding the dashboard itself. They should be unscrewed carefully, as the screws may fall under the panel. It is better to unscrew them with a screwdriver with a magnetized tip.

We pull the panel slightly towards ourselves and see the green block and wiring harness. Disconnect it by pressing the “tab” and pulling slightly upward. After which the instrument panel will be removed.

Priora instrument panel lights do not light up

Guys, help) the whole tidy is on, only the speedometer is not on, you put the lights from the speedometer in another place, they work, and all the working lights on the speedometer do not light up, what could be the problem? Where and what to see or change? If you have the skills, then disassemble the device and look for a burnt out track or restore an erased contact pad.

If you have the skills, then disassemble the device and look for a burnt out track or restore an erased contact pad.

Now the whole panel has gone out(((we didn’t even have time to climb in(((

Apparently it was especially bright LED. )))

Not at all. She was dazzling)))

Correct the connector first.

Corrected me, I'm not a fool

How to make the instrument panel turn on the ignition

If you mean the backlight of the tidy when ignition, then you already wrote here)))

If you mean the backlight of the tidy when ignition, then you already wrote here)))

Yes, the topic is about backlighting)), but how can I search from my phone?

Yes, the topic is about backlighting)), but how can I search from my phone?

13 - contact - white - instrument lighting (remove the white wire from the block, instead apply it from the ignition switch or the D+ signal from the generator - the instrument will be illuminated when the ignition is turned on or when the engine is running. The indicator - "gauge" will work normally, as usual when incl. dimensions)

The entire instrument panel periodically began to go out (if you turn on the turn signals, the indicators turn on, but the rest of the panel is still without light), and all other indicators too. The backlight comes from the electrical package controller, contact X2-2 (white wire), then branches somewhere in the harnesses on several wires, diverging to all places, including the dashboard lighting. To begin, pull connector X2 of the electrical package controller several times (it is 20-pin), maybe the contact is bad, or you can turn on the backlight, wait until it stops working and use a needle to measure the voltage on the specified wire.

How to find X2-2: https://xn—-8sbabr6ahc3e.xn--p1ai/images/LADA_Priora/Tuning/Other/podkluchenie-antiradar-priora/mus2.jpg

If the car is new and the Central Body Electronics Unit is installed instead of the electrical package controller, then everything is simpler - the backlight takes its origins in the lighting control module, pin 58b, the wire is also white.

Hello comrades. I have the following problem: the lights on the instrument panel, heater knobs, heated glass, cigarette lighter are not on, but the lights on the power windows and MUS are on. In addition, the left side of the lights does not light up, the low beam lights up normally. What can non-burning elements have in common and where to go?

Added after 7 minutes and I was also mistaken, the MUS is not lit either

FakeHeader

Comments 17

My throttle went off. View the board on the non-propelled

Do you mean the throttle?) I’ll take it to another place one of these days to check

How to understand whether something works or doesn’t? With brightness everything is fine, but the LCD backlight periodically turns off and does it plow?

I turn on the ignition, and sometimes the screen lights up, sometimes it doesn’t light up. But when the screen turns black, I don’t see anything, but from the passenger side I can see what’s happening on the display

I don’t really understand this, but as I understand it, the master said the screen consists of layers and supposedly, at his own risk, he disassembled the display itself and changed the backlight, but it didn’t help.

Its version processor or cable

Well then it's definitely a train.

Is the repair suitable? Or is it all the star to him?

I read it and he took it from my hands. There's no longer there

Maybe it's enough to just solder the contacts? Carefully examine the tracks and pins that are soldered into the board, as well as the connectors for connecting to the instrument panel. 85 percent of the faults are located there.

Another plus is that the cable may fall off from the LCD contacts

By the way. Thanks for the addition. I forgot this moment.

AvtoAmper161

Maybe it's enough to just solder the contacts? Carefully examine the tracks and pins that are soldered into the board, as well as the connectors for connecting to the instrument panel. 85 percent of the faults are located there.

I gave it to the technician, he first of all soldered the contacts, changed the backlight and did something to the processor

Then either to another master. Or to the landfill. To another master, not because this handyman. There are just moments when I can’t find the reason, I myself send the client to another master.

I agree, you need to find a friend. Landfill is not an option. The cost of such a device is very expensive

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Why does the instrument lighting on the Priora not work?

Everyone values ​​the time of day! TROUBLE! The instrument lights do not light up. First things first. My speedometer lights probably stopped working half a year ago. Today I decided to do it, changed two light bulbs. I put it in place, turn on the dimensions, and then “Hello.” Only the tachometer backlight is on and that’s it. The rest of the instruments are not illuminated, the arrows also do not light up. The BC monitor is on and working, the arrows are also functioning, the indicator lamps are all on. Only the devices do not light up. I changed the other light bulbs. the same. Zero result.

Maybe someone had something similar? What could it be? Is it really necessary to change the device?

Good day! The question is, the dashboard lights do not light up, all the sensors are on, except for the sensor for turning on the side lights and headlights. The fuses are also intact. Thank you in advance! Priora instrument panel lights do not light up.

Priora on-board computer backlight | Auto Bryansk

31 comments

before or the light bulbs burned out (if you climbed in there, you could shake them)

Evgeniy, the previous one is numbered F12, and it also refers to the interior lighting and brake light

Alexander, maybe the light bulbs have gone out. did you pull it out and look?

Artyom, yes, we changed the light bulbs, they still don’t light up, but we tried other devices, everything works fine

Alexander, that means there’s something in the dash. Some contact has fallen off. probably need to take it apart and look

Artyom, this wire shouldn’t be here. Could this be the reason why the whole dash won't light up?

Evgeniy, look, I don’t like this wire, what is it even doing here?

Alexander, honestly I don’t know, I haven’t disassembled the tidy yet.

Artyom, well, it’s clear that this wire is superfluous and shouldn’t be like that

Artyom, I made the tidy for myself in a different color, there is no wire there, but this tidy is not my friend who let me see what’s wrong, but he himself doesn’t know, he’s just been driving around in a Priora for a week since I bought it, it wasn’t on, but that owner told me to put light bulbs there and All the lights are installed, but they don't light up

Alexander, well, that is. this is not your device and you don’t know 100% whether it was on?

no not mine, I don’t know what to do with it, I’ll try to remove this wire and solder the light bulb in place, if not, then I’ll say let him throw it away

Alexander, it seems like the previous owner hid something. Try removing it, maybe something will work out, or look for the tidy. Although, at night I illuminated it with a flashlight and drove on)

Artyom, I guess he didn’t tell him more, but now I’ll try, maybe it will work out

Romka, is this why the whole dash doesn’t light up? in addition to the handbrake light indicators, turn signal, etc.

Look carefully where the track burned out, if everything is fine then I'm wrong, maybe everything is fine with you

Maybe someone had something similar? What could it be? Is it really necessary to change the device?

Possible reasons

What to do in a situation where the instrument panel backlight on a VAZ-2110 car has disappeared? First of all, you should look for the reason why this malfunction occurred. Sometimes it can be identified immediately, but in some cases this process takes some time. In fact, there may be several reasons, so you will need to check everything methodically.

The most banal and simplest option is that someone turned the rheostat knob, which is responsible for the amount of light flux, all the way to the left.

This, by the way, is often the sin of children who are placed in the front seat. “Young drivers” love to turn all sorts of knobs, press buttons and switch levers. Perhaps the adults overlooked it, and the child “corrected” the dashboard lighting. The problem, as you understand, is solved by simply returning the rheostat knob to its previous position. Therefore, before you start looking for possible reasons for the sudden disappearance of the backlight, check this particular point.

I would like to remind you of one simple rule. In a situation where there may be several possible causes of failure, when searching you need to follow the path of least resistance. In other words, test the simplest assumptions first. You may be lucky and find the problem with minimal time and effort.

If the reason is not in the position of the rheostat handle, you need to proceed to further search for the causes of the breakdown. Possible sources of problems here could be:

• fuse;
• instrument panel circuit board;
• contacts;
• wiring;
• failure of light bulbs due to short circuit.

So, let's look at some of the above reasons in more detail. After the rheostat handle, you should check the integrity of the 5-amp fuse F1. You can also usually turn on the side lights and see if they work on the left side. Everything is explained here simply. The lamps that illuminate the instrument panel, the left side lights, as well as the trunk lighting operate through this fuse. The dimensions located on the right side of the car receive power through F11, that is, they are not of interest to us in this particular case.

You may see the following situation. The left side parking lights, or trunk light, work, but the instrument panel light does not. This means that the problem is not in fuse F1. Therefore, you need to continue searching for the possible cause of the malfunction. In particular, it is necessary to check the contacts of the rheostat that illuminates the dashboard lighting. It is not uncommon for plugs to fall off. Accordingly, the lighting of the shield disappears due to lack of contact.

However, the rheostat itself can also fail. It is quite easy to check this assumption. To do this, you must first remove the rheostat, and then directly connect its contacts. If after this manipulation the instrument panel lights come to life, it means that the problem has been found, and you just need to replace the failed part. If not, then you need to continue searching further.

The stove does not turn on

In a situation where the Priora stove does not turn on, there may be two explanations - a blown fuse, a blown fan motor, a breakdown of the controller, or oxidation of the contacts in the connectors.

After checking the fuse, take the following steps:

• Open the hood and on the left side (looking at the windshield) remove the rubber seal at the top left.
• Remove the four screws to remove the trim.
• Find the heater connector somewhere near the third mount.
• Turn on the ignition.
• Try to press the connector and pay attention to whether the stove starts working or not.

Damage to the connector is a real problem on the Priora, so do not rush to immediately change the control unit or other elements before checking the fuse and the quality of the contact connection.

An exclamation mark is lit on the dashboard: what should the driver do?

Taking into account the fact that there may be several reasons, with the brakes being the most serious, let us dwell on this problem in more detail. If the exclamation mark is on on the panel, the first step is to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. To do this, just put the car on a level surface, unscrew the tank cap and make sure that the level is between o and “max”. If the level is below the minimum mark, then the exclamation mark on the panel lights up based on a signal from the sensor.

In the case where the driver recently checked the level, and now there has been a sharp decrease, it is important to find the cause of the leakage of fuel fluid from the system. This could be brake hoses, hydraulic clutch, brake cylinders, etc.

It also happens that the indicator lights up while driving over bumps, and then goes out on a smooth road. This means that there is little liquid in the tank, but the level has not yet dropped to a critical level. When the car rocks, the sensor is triggered, while on a flat surface the level of brake fluid is still sufficient for the indicator to go out.

It should be remembered that during operation it is important to periodically monitor the fluid level, use only recommended fluids for topping up, and also promptly change the fluid and bleed the brakes. Let's move on

It may happen that after setting the level, the problem does not disappear. In such a situation, you need to check the fuel oil level sensor itself. The sensor is located in the master cylinder reservoir. To check the sensor, you need to do the following:

Let's move on. It may happen that after setting the level, the problem does not disappear. In such a situation, you need to check the fuel oil level sensor itself. The sensor is located in the master cylinder reservoir. To check the sensor, you need to do the following:

• We turn on the ignition, the exclamation mark lights up, which indicates a low fuel fluid level. Normally, the icon should go out if the level is normal and the sensor is operating normally. If this does not happen, and the liquid level in the tank is normal, then you need to “throw off” the power from the sensor. If the light goes out, the problem is often in the sensor. The float often breaks and lies at the bottom, although there is enough liquid in the tank.
• In the case where the exclamation mark is lit and no power is supplied to the sensor, this situation may indicate problems with the wiring, and the sensor is most likely in working order. The wiring may short out, damage, breaks, etc. may occur.

Location of Priora fuses under the hood

• F1 (30 A) – power supply fuse for the electronic engine control system (ECM);
• F2 (60 A) – fuse for the power supply circuit of the engine cooling system fan (power circuit), additional relay (ignition relay), rear window heating, electrical package controller;
• F3 (60 A) – fuse for the power supply circuit of the electric fan of the engine cooling system (relay control circuit), sound signal, alarm signal, ignition switch, instrument cluster, interior lighting, brake light, cigarette lighter;
• F4, F6 (60 A) – generator power circuit fuses;
• F5 (50 A) – fuse for the power supply circuit of the electromechanical power steering

Relay and fuse box for Halla air conditioner

1. right electric fan power supply fuse (30 A);
2. fuse for the power supply circuit of the left electric fan (30 A).
3. right electric fan relay;
4. additional relay (sequential activation of left and right electric fans);
5. left electric fan relay;
6. heater fan power supply fuse (40 A);
7. compressor power supply fuse (15 A);
8. heater fan relay;
9. compressor relay.

Panasonic air conditioner relay and fuse box

1. Heater fan maximum speed
2. Right fan
3. Fan sequential relay (low speed)
4. Left fan
5. Left fan fuse (low speed)
6. Right fan
7. Heater fan
8. Compressor
9. Heater fan
10. Compressor

Block in the engine compartment

The power fuse box is located in the engine compartment under the hood, near the left strut support. To get to it, you need to open the lid by prying the latch.

1 (30 A) - engine control system circuit . If there are problems with the electronic control unit, short circuits or other malfunctions, this fuse may blow out.

2 (30 A) - vehicle on-board circuit . 3 (40 A) - vehicle on-board circuit .

4 (60 A) - generator circuit.

5 (50 A) - electric power steering circuit.

6 (60 A) - generator circuit.

In case of any problems, it is important not to panic, to think soberly and logically. The most important thing is to diagnose and establish the cause of the breakdown. If you don’t have enough experience or nerves, it’s easier to sign up at the nearest car service center if it has a competent electrician.

I hope this article will help you deal with electrical problems and quickly fix any Priora malfunctions. If you have any experience or information, please leave a comment below, useful information will be added to the article.

Hello everyone, guys, this problem is that the instrument panel backlight does not light up, what could it be?

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Additional mounting block Priora

• F1 (15 A) – main relay and starter interlock circuit fuse;
• F2 (7.5 A) – fuse for the power supply circuit of the ECU (controller);
• F3 (15 A) – Priora fuel pump fuse;
• K1 – main relay;
• K2 is the place where the Priora fuel pump relay is located.

Attention! The relay and fuse diagram may differ depending on the configuration and production date of the vehicle. Current diagrams of the mounting block are presented in the operating manual for the date of manufacture of the vehicle (download from

site).

Let us remind you that on our website you can find detailed instructions for repairing the Lada Priora with your own hands.

Possible reasons

What to do in a situation where the instrument panel backlight on a VAZ-2110 car has disappeared? First of all, you should look for the reason why this malfunction occurred. Sometimes it can be identified immediately, but in some cases this process takes some time. In fact, there may be several reasons, so you will need to check everything methodically.

The most banal and simplest option is that someone turned the rheostat knob, which is responsible for the amount of light flux, all the way to the left.

This, by the way, is often the sin of children who are placed in the front seat. “Young drivers” love to turn all sorts of knobs, press buttons and switch levers. Perhaps the adults overlooked it, and the child “corrected” the dashboard lighting. The problem, as you understand, is solved by simply returning the rheostat knob to its previous position. Therefore, before you start looking for possible reasons for the sudden disappearance of the backlight, check this particular point.

I would like to remind you of one simple rule. In a situation where there may be several possible causes of failure, when searching you need to follow the path of least resistance. In other words, test the simplest assumptions first. You may be lucky and find the problem with minimal time and effort.

If the reason is not in the position of the rheostat handle, you need to proceed to further search for the causes of the breakdown. Possible sources of problems here could be:

• fuse;
• instrument panel circuit board;
• contacts;
• wiring;
• failure of light bulbs due to short circuit.

So, let's look at some of the above reasons in more detail. After the rheostat handle, you should check the integrity of the 5-amp fuse F1. You can also usually turn on the side lights and see if they work on the left side. Everything is explained here simply. The lamps that illuminate the instrument panel, the left side lights, as well as the trunk lighting operate through this fuse. The dimensions located on the right side of the car receive power through F11, that is, they are not of interest to us in this particular case.

You may see the following situation. The left side parking lights, or trunk light, work, but the instrument panel light does not. This means that the problem is not in fuse F1. Therefore, you need to continue searching for the possible cause of the malfunction. In particular, it is necessary to check the contacts of the rheostat that illuminates the dashboard lighting. It is not uncommon for plugs to fall off. Accordingly, the lighting of the shield disappears due to lack of contact.

However, the rheostat itself can also fail. It is quite easy to check this assumption. To do this, you must first remove the rheostat, and then directly connect its contacts. If after this manipulation the instrument panel lights come to life, it means that the problem has been found, and you just need to replace the failed part. If not, then you need to continue searching further.

The most serious problem due to which the instrument panel lighting disappears is damage to the printed circuit board of the dashboard itself. In particular, there are often situations when the track on it that supplies power to the lamps burns out. One point worth noting here. The instrument panel in such a situation cannot be repaired, which means there is only one way out - replacement with a new one.

There are cases when, due to a short circuit, all the lamps illuminating the instrument panel burn out. However, this happens quite rarely. Much more often, one lamp may fail. As you can see, there are several reasons why the instrument panel lighting may disappear. Accordingly, the search will take some time. However, in the vast majority of cases, eliminating the malfunction that has arisen will not be so difficult, and many people can easily do this with their own hands.

Attention /1

Below are the main reasons why reverse lights may malfunction and not light up when driving in reverse gear.

• Lamp burnouts
• Fuse
• Reverse sensor
• Open circuit
• Oxidation of contacts

Lamp burnout

This is the simplest option, but it still cannot be ruled out. It is unlikely that both bulbs could fail at once, but it is possible that you may not have noticed that one of the reverse lights is not on. Therefore, first of all, it is worth checking the lamps. To do this, you need to dismantle the lamp; it is removed from the luggage compartment and is held on by three wings.

Fuse

Both reversing lamps are powered by the same circuit, protected by the same fuse. Therefore, when the fuse-link melts, the power supply circuit for the lights disappears and both lamps stop turning on. This can easily be checked by looking at the dashboard, since on the Priora the fuse responsible for powering the rear running lights is also responsible for the dashboard lighting. If the car's lights and instrument panel lights stop lighting at the same time, the fuse link has most likely failed.

This fuse is numbered F12 with a rated current of 20A or 10A, depending on the vehicle configuration. In the “luxury” configuration 20A, “standard” 10A.

You can only replace a fuse with the same rating as it was previously installed in order to avoid a fire in the vehicle's electrical wiring.

Designations for other fuses can be found here.

Reverse sensor

To turn on the reversing lamps on the Prior, a special sensor is used, which is installed in the gearbox housing (gearbox). It is he who is able to disable the lights. This sensor is reliable, but it also sometimes fails.

It is not possible to repair this electrical appliance, so it is recommended to replace it entirely.

You can get to the sensor from the inspection hole, but to do this you will have to remove the crankcase protection (if equipped). We find the sensor, circled in red in the picture.

Next, remove the chip from the sensor and close it with a jumper made of thin wire, then turn on the ignition and see if the lights come on. If the lamps come on, then you need to start replacing the sensor.

Open circuit

Checking the circuit for open circuit is done using a multimeter. It is necessary to turn on the ignition on the car and set the gearbox to reverse gear. On the device, set the switch to measure DC voltage, as in the picture below.

We check whether the plus is coming to the lamp; to do this, remove the lamp and connect the device between the two contacts; if the device shows readings from 11V to 13V, then everything is normal and the circuit is working.

If there are no readings, then we connect one of the multimeter probes to the car body and take a measurement. The readings that appear on the multimeter will mean that the “-” mass is not reaching the flashlight. You need to look for a break.

If there are no readings, then the power supply circuit “+” and “-“ is open. It is best to contact an auto electrician to fix the problem.

Oxidation of contacts

Contacts can oxidize due to a poor connection between the lamp and the contact, as well as the sensor and the chip. Most often, oxidation occurs at the contact between the chip and the sensor. We check the contacts, tighten them if necessary and clean them.

After carrying out all the manipulations described above, the rear running lights of your car will shine like new.

Fuses and relays in Lada Priora, electrical diagrams

Lada Priora is another car in the line of new VAZ cars, which is gaining popularity among segments of the population

External similarities with the 10th model attract the attention of young people; the relatively low price is also a reason for purchase for most car enthusiasts. Along with the growth in popularity, the owners of this model are gaining experience in repair and maintenance, which is becoming more and more every year.

If your Priora has electrical problems, do not rush to get upset; first, check the fuses and relays in your Lada Priora. These are the ones that will be discussed in this article.

Location of Priora fuses under the hood

• F1 (30 A) – power supply fuse for the electronic engine control system (ECM);
• F2 (60 A) – fuse for the power supply circuit of the engine cooling system fan (power circuit), additional relay (ignition relay), rear window heating, electrical package controller;
• F3 (60 A) – fuse for the power supply circuit of the electric fan of the engine cooling system (relay control circuit), sound signal, alarm signal, ignition switch, instrument cluster, interior lighting, brake light, cigarette lighter;
• F4, F6 (60 A) – generator power circuit fuses;
• F5 (50 A) – fuse for the power supply circuit of the electromechanical power steering

Relay and fuse box for Halla air conditioner

1. right electric fan power supply fuse (30 A);
2. fuse for the power supply circuit of the left electric fan (30 A).
3. right electric fan relay;
4. additional relay (sequential activation of left and right electric fans);
5. left electric fan relay;
6. heater fan power supply fuse (40 A);
7. compressor power supply fuse (15 A);
8. heater fan relay;
9. compressor relay.

Panasonic air conditioner relay and fuse box

1. Heater fan maximum speed
2. Right fan
3. Fan sequential relay (low speed)
4. Left fan
5. Left fan fuse (low speed)
6. Right fan
7. Heater fan
8. Compressor
9. Heater fan
10. Compressor