Repair and replacement of the pump for VAZ 2110/2112. Replacing the pump on a VAZ 2110

The pump (coolant pump) is one of the main elements of the cooling system of an internal combustion engine.

It serves to pump coolant into the system, thereby ensuring its circulation and cooling of the entire engine. The pump structure consists of a housing, an impeller, a bearing and a drive gear.

In VAZ 2110 cars (8 valves), the pump is located on the right side of the engine cylinder block (in the direction of travel) under the timing belt cover.

It is driven directly by the timing belt, which, while moving, rotates the drive gear.

Design Features

Despite its simple design, the pump of any car, including the VAZ 2110, is a fairly loaded element, all due to the same drive, so it can easily fail.
The culprit is usually the pump bearing. Essentially, the pump consists of:

shaft;
housings;
bearing;
oil seals;
gear and impeller.

Everything is simple - a gear is mounted on the shaft on one side, and an impeller on the other. Between them on the shaft there are a bearing and seals, which are located inside the housing.

This housing attaches the pump to the cylinder block. In this case, the impeller is located inside the cooling jacket, and the gear is outside it. The timing drive causes the gear to rotate, and along with it the impeller, since they are mounted on the same shaft.

In this case, the gear does not contact the drive with its entire working surface, but only half.

And since the timing belt must be constantly tensioned, the pump bearing constantly experiences a one-sided load, which ultimately leads to its failure.

This, in general, is the main reason for the breakdown of the water pump in the VAZ-2110 and not only.

Instructions

A detailed and sequential process for replacing the pump will be considered for a VAZ-2112 with a 16-valve 1.6 engine:

Using a special pit in the garage or a lift it is easier to replace the water pump. But not everyone has them, so we will consider the replacement process in a simple garage without a pit.
Remove the front wheel on the right.
To give yourself access to the crankshaft pulley, remove the protective plastic splash guard by unscrewing the screws securing the element to the body and removing it.
Secure the crankshaft from turning. This is in your own interests of safety and convenience, and is also necessary in order not to disrupt the valve timing.
Loosen the alternator and timing belt using the tension roller, which just needs to be loosened slightly.
Unscrew the crankshaft mount.
After loosening the fastening, remove the pulley.
Next, it is necessary to disassemble the gas distribution mechanism, during which all elements are dismantled - casing, pulleys and rollers.
Only now we get to the pump. Unscrew its mounting bolts - 3 pieces. Dismantle the device.
Pull out the pump completely.
Installation is similar, but done in reverse order.

Maintain consistency so as not to violate the integrity of the “chain” of the system in the end.

A replaced pump will allow you to forget about problems with it for the next 40-50 thousand km.

Why do you need a pump in a car?

If we talk about the operation of a car engine, then we immediately touch upon the topic of its cooling. Indeed, without high-quality cooling, the engine will not be able to work for a long time and will definitely “boil”. Thanks to the circulation of coolant, it becomes possible to operate the engine at any time of the year under any external conditions.

The power component on the VAZ of the tenth family has a rather complex structure. During the working cycle, the pistons rub strongly against each other, which invariably leads to strong heating of the surfaces. The only way to prevent engine overheating is to constantly maintain the desired temperature in the friction zone through the circulation of coolant and. It is for this purpose that the VAZ design includes a cooling system.

The design and operating features of the VAZ 2110 engine cooling system are described in detail in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/dvigatel/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-dvigatelya.html

Coolant (antifreeze or antifreeze) is poured by the driver into the expansion tank of the car. From it, the liquid is transferred through pipes to the water pump, and from there it goes to the radiator and cylinder block. The water pump (or pump) is designed to pump antifreeze through the system while the engine is running. That is, the pump starts together with the engine and turns off after the driver turns off the car. Without a pump, the entire cooling system can be considered ineffective, since only the pump can create rapid circulation of liquid throughout all parts of the system.

The pump is designed to create the necessary pressure in the cooling system to move the liquid.

The device in a metal case ensures continuous circulation of antifreeze through the cooling system

Element characteristics

In total, in the automotive world there are two types of coolant pumps - mechanical or electrically driven. In the first case, the drive is carried out from the camshaft or crankshaft of the internal combustion engine using a belt drive. In the case of an electric one, all this is done by one electric motor, which has its own control system. Regardless of the type and dimensions of the machine, this pump is installed only in the front part of the engine. VAZ-2110 is no exception.

The design of this part assumes the presence of a centrifugal type pump. In addition, the design of this element includes an impeller and a housing. The first part is most often installed on a shaft with a pulley. The body can be either cast iron or aluminum. It has special channels for draining and discharging antifreeze to the impeller. A sealing gasket is placed between the pump body and the internal combustion engine cylinder block. It prevents coolant from leaking out of the pump.

Pump device

Pump device.

The purpose of the pump is to pump coolant into the system, thereby circulating it and cooling the engine..

In the VAZ-2110 (with an 8-valve engine), this pump is located to the right of the engine cylinder block, directly under the timing belt cover. It is the latter mechanism that powers the pump, rotating it.

Location of the pump on the engine.

Possible causes of malfunction

There are different types of pumps and water pumps.

But they all have similarities, representing: a fixed shaft, on one side of which there is an impeller, and on the other side there is a drive roller driven by a timing belt.

But also, an oil seal is installed between the housing and the impeller . Damage to it can cause coolant to leak out, washing away the lubricant from the bearings. After this, they may jam or become quite noisy.
Despite the fact that the bearings do not wear out so quickly , you should not hesitate to correct this malfunction, as this can lead to more serious consequences, including a major overhaul of the motor.

Checking the operation of the pump on a VAZ-2110

You can diagnose a water pump using various methods.

The simplest involves warming up the engine and squeezing the upper hose that comes from the radiator. Feeling clear pulsations of the coolant will indicate that the pump is working properly.

If you squeeze this pipe, your hand will feel the pressure of the antifreeze when the pump is running.

When checking this, be extremely careful not to touch the pump blades with your hands, since the motor is at operating temperature.

The second way to check the water pump is to inspect the oil seal . Its failure leads to leakage of coolant. To do this, you need to remove the timing belt cover and examine the special ventilation hole. If it is contaminated with brown deposits, the oil seal must be replaced, preferably together with the pump.

Leakage from the oil seal is visible from streaks on the engine housing.

It is not difficult to replace the oil seal with your own hands. This part plays a vital role in the operation of the engine cooling system, therefore, it needs to be monitored.

Bearings

Also, the cause of malfunctions in the cooling system can be damaged pump shaft bearings.

This breakdown is accompanied by a howling sound from the front of the car. In order to determine the degree of bearing wear, you should check for shaft play by loosening the pump drive sprocket.

In a situation where external malfunctions in the operation of the water pump cannot be determined, it should be dismantled and inspected in detail. This is how you can identify rusted blades, which jeopardizes the operation of the entire engine cooling system.

Air lock formation

Replacing the pump supply pipe and draining the antifreeze associated with the work can lead to the formation of an air lock in the cooling system.

There are 2 ways to fix the problem:

With the engine warm, remove one of the 2 throttle body hoses for 5-10 seconds. A small amount of antifreeze may leak out, which must be added through the expansion tank.
The car is installed on a rise (overpass) so that the radiator is higher than the engine. The expansion tank cap is removed and the engine is started. After removing the plug, coolant is added.

Maintaining the cooling system in good condition ensures high-quality operation of the car engine. When replacing the supply pipe of the coolant pump on a car with high mileage, it is recommended to simultaneously replace the used antifreeze and flush the entire system.

How to check the pump on a VAZ 2110/2112

The driver, if there is a suspicion of a malfunction of the water pump, can check this unit without going to a car repair shop. In this case, there is no need to remove the pump from the car; the entire verification procedure is completed within 10 minutes:

Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (on a VAZ of the tenth family - 91 degrees).
Put a glove on your right hand.
Pinch the fluid supply pipe that comes from the radiator with your hand. If the pump is working normally, you will immediately be able to feel the pressure of the antifreeze inside the pipe. If, when pressed, the hose easily compresses, then the circulation of coolant is severely inhibited, which indicates a breakdown of the pump.

To identify pump malfunctions, it is enough to squeeze the antifreeze supply pipe - if the hose resists compression, then the pressure in the system is stable

When performing the check, you must be careful, since the antifreeze gets very hot during engine operation: you can get burned on the hot pipes and surfaces of the engine.

Signs of a faulty water pump

On a VAZ of the tenth family, diagnosing problems with the water pump is quite simple: you need to constantly monitor the “behavior” of your car . There are only three signs of a pump malfunction:

Unusual noise or grinding noise in the timing belt assembly while driving.
Pump leaking due to loss of tightness.
Severe damage to the timing belt (asymmetrical wear, delamination or cracking).

Traces of coolant can be seen both in the timing belt assembly itself and on the asphalt after the car has been parked for a long time.

The main malfunction of the pump on the VAZ 2110/2112 is considered to be bearing wear - if the bearing is badly worn or the timing belt is not tensioned correctly, then it will not be possible to repair the pump.

Checking the functionality of the water pump

Self-diagnosis of the pump is quite simple and will take no more than 10 minutes. The verification procedure is as follows:

The engine warms up to operating temperature (91˚C for VAZ 2110).
For safety reasons, a thick glove is worn on the right hand.
The coolant supply from the radiator is cut off. To do this, squeeze the pipe by hand. If the pump is working properly, you will feel the antifreeze pressure inside the hose. If the pipe compresses easily, then the pump is faulty.

All actions should be carried out with extreme caution, since the coolant gets very hot, and you can get burns from the surface of the motor or pipes. To identify problems with the pump, it is enough to pinch the coolant supply pipe

To identify problems with the pump, it is enough to pinch the coolant supply pipe

Diagnosis of pump faults on VAZ 2110/11/12

A pump malfunction can be identified by the following signs:

While driving, extraneous noise appears from the timing belt.
The pump loses its seal and begins to leak.
The timing belt breaks.

The most capricious element of the VAZ 2110/11/12 pump is the bearing. If it is severely worn or if the timing belt tension is incorrect, the pump cannot be repaired.

One of the symptoms of a pump malfunction is the appearance of a leak.

Consequences of using a faulty pump

Operating a car with a faulty pump can lead to the following serious consequences:

damage or breakage of the timing belt, often leading to a major engine overhaul;
When the engine overheats, the rubber elements of the cooling system, valve covers and cylinder head gaskets are destroyed.

The pump is changed along with the tension roller and timing belt every 50 thousand kilometers. If signs of wear appear, these components are replaced before the time specified by the manufacturer.

Signs of a pump malfunction

Thanks to the rotation of the pump driven by the timing belt, the impeller circulates a special fluid (antifreeze, antifreeze) through the small and large circuits of the cooling system. A damaged pump can cause the engine to overheat or cause the timing belt to break. To avoid an emergency on the road, you should do preventive repairs on time. On a VAZ 2110 with an 8-valve engine, the omen of replacing the pump can be recognized by the symptoms described below.

Noise from the timing belt cover

Timing belt cover

When the engine is running, a shuffling rotating sound is produced from the side of the timing belt protective cover. This is an indication that the pump bearings are sufficiently worn. According to the maintenance regulations, the pump should be changed every second timing belt replacement. The recommendation should not be neglected, since the rolling shaft bearings operate under load and wear out relatively quickly. Sometimes antifreeze or antifreeze gets into the bearing race due to a leaky seal. As a result, the lubricant is washed out and wear of rubbing parts accelerates.

Coolant leak from under the pump

Hermetic seals: the oil seal and rubber cuffs, as well as the bearings, have a limited service life. Typically, seals leak after bearings wear out, as there is play in the shaft. In addition to this, the constant cycle of heating and cooling of the engine gradually destroys the material of rubber products. As a result, small puddles of coolant appear under the engine compartment of the VAZ 2110 on the pump side.

Misalignment of drive shaft pulleys

Pulley VAZ 2110

A defective pump can result in noisy engine operation and frequent timing belt breaks. According to the performance characteristics, skewed rotation of the pulleys does not provide the vehicle with a long service life. The belt cannot withstand additional loads and breaks after a mileage of up to 1000 km. As a result, you will have to replace the defective pump, otherwise on such a VAZ 2110, an unscheduled replacement of the timing belt will become a regular procedure.

Motor overheating

The pump impeller may be partially destroyed. The lack of blades leads to a decrease in coolant circulation. As a result, the engine does not receive proper cooling from the small circuit and the temperature rises, even to the point of boiling. Overheating, in turn, has a detrimental effect on the engine.

Among the most common consequences, the most difficult to eliminate should be listed:

can “drive” the cylinder head;
the cylinder head gasket burns out;
piston rings are destroyed;
the motor risks jamming;
The crankshaft bearings fail.

For reference! Frequent use of a special sealant to eliminate coolant leaks reduces the service life of the water pump. The foreign mixture tends to stick to the impeller, forming a solid clot and clogging the channels of the cooling jacket.

Replacing the pump on a VAZ 2110/2112

One day, the owner of a VAZ of the tenth family will be faced with the need to replace the water pump. Fortunately, the design of the pump itself is quite simple, so the pump rarely fails.

It is recommended to change the pump on the VAZ 2110/2112 every 50 thousand kilometers or at the first sign of a malfunction.

If you do not replace the water pump on time, the consequences for the car can be very unpleasant:

broken timing belt (a faulty pump wears the belt unevenly);
expensive repair of the cylinder head (if the drive belt is damaged, the valve mechanisms may bend);
overheating of the motor (jamming of moving parts, failure).

Information on replacing the water pump in VAZ 2114/2115 cars is in this article: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/ohlazhdenie/zamena-pompyi-na-vaz-2114.html

Choosing a pump for your car

So, you have decided to replace the pump. Now you need to go to the auto store and buy the required element. However, sellers offer a huge assortment of different water pumps for the VAZ 2110/2112 - which pump to choose so as not to go wrong with the price and quality?

The price of a pump for an 8-valve VAZ 2110/2112 engine is from 800 rubles, for a 16-valve engine - from 1 thousand rubles. However, regardless of the cost and brightness of the packaging, when purchasing, you must pay attention to the following details:

manufacturer (take products only from companies that you know well);
the pump has its own catalog number (for example, the standard VAZ pump in all catalogs in car stores and on Internet sites is numbered 21081307010);
the pump is sold in clean, uncreased packaging;
The kit includes a gasket;
A factory quality guarantee is provided with the pump.

Car enthusiasts prefer a pump produced by TZA. A water pump from a domestic manufacturer is easy to install, lasts a long time and is inexpensive. However, there is a risk of purchasing a defective product.

I installed the TZA myself. Z.Y. Didn't even get through 10k. It rattled loudly, there was a lot of longitudinal and transverse play. Replaced by HEPU.
Kib https://autolada.ru/viewtopic.php?t=272383

So I only approve of her (TZA). Be sure to make sure that there is a hologram sticker, a piece of paper with a shift stamp - there is the batch number, who made it and what shift it was made by. The price of unscorched is approximately 600–800 rubles. I do not remember exactly. Don’t be fooled by metal impellers and overseas manufacturers. Take the factory one - it has been tested on many, many have been rolled out. The main thing is not to look yellow!
Kaban_21124 https://autolada.ru/viewtopic.php?t=272383

+1 TZA, I also drove Hepu, 2 out of 3 in a row were defective (they started squealing after 20 minutes of work)
Synthetic https://autolada.ru/viewtopic.php?t=272383

The Russian-made product is characterized by affordable cost and high quality work

Where is the water pump located?

On models of the tenth VAZ family, the pump is mounted on the right side of the engine cylinder block. The exact location of the pump is determined by the principle of its operation: the blades of the pump impeller begin to rotate from the energy of the timing belt . That is, the design of the car already initially determined the location of the pump as part of the gas distribution mechanism.

The pump on the VAZ of the tenth family is located as part of the timing unit

Preparing tools

Replacing the water pump on a VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112 is a procedure that does not require special equipment or specific knowledge. In addition, on these VAZ models, the design of the machine itself greatly facilitates the work: you will need the usual set of tools:

wrench 10;
wrench 17;
open-end wrench 19;
socket head 10;
screwdriver with a thin flat blade.

To replace the pump yourself, you do not need to use professional tools or complex equipment

It is better to prepare a container for draining the antifreeze in advance (one or more vessels that will hold 10–12 liters of coolant). Of course, during replacement it will not be possible to do without a rag to quickly clean up leaks.

Is it necessary to drain all the antifreeze from the system?

Drivers, when independently changing the pump on a VAZ, often wonder about draining antifreeze from the system. How much is it necessary to drain the coolant at all and if drained, how many liters?

There are specific answers to these questions:

It is necessary to drain the antifreeze when performing any work on the elements of the cooling system. Draining the antifreeze ensures that pressure in the system is relieved and reduces the risk of injury. In addition, when dismantling and installing the pump, antifreeze will constantly leak from the landing zone, which will create a lot of inconvenience and ultimately lead to incorrect replacement.
Regarding the question of how much antifreeze needs to be drained, there are two solutions. The first is based on caring for the car. As a rule, it is customary to change the coolant along with the pump, so it is better to drain the antifreeze from the system completely. The second option is suitable for those drivers who have only recently replaced antifreeze. In this case, you can drain only part of the liquid from the system (about 2-3 liters) in order to relieve the residual pressure in the pipes.

Draining antifreeze from the radiator cavity

Accordingly, after replacing the pump, you need to fill in the same amount of coolant that was drained before dismantling.

Step by step operating procedure

The water pump is replaced in an inspection pit or overpass. A regular jack will do, but you should make sure in advance that the body is lifted from the front right side and securely secured with additional stops.

The procedure for replacing the pump is identical for VAZ 2110/2112 with engines with 8 and 16 valves.

Replacing the pump involves removing the timing belt and tension pulley

After the initial preparation, you can begin the main work:

Open the hood and remove the wire from the negative terminal on the battery.
Unscrew the cap from the expansion tank.
Get down under the car and place a container under the cylinder block.
Unscrew the antifreeze drain plug and pour it into a container.
After draining, install the plug back.
Next, remove the front right wheel from the VAZ.
The timing block will open under it - use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the three casing bolts.
Remove the casing from the machine.
After this, fix the crankshaft at the highest point of the first cylinder: engage the gear and turn the bolt that secures the pulley with a 19mm wrench. You need to turn it until the mark on the shaft gear matches the mark on the rear casing of the gas distribution mechanism.
It is better to insert a large screwdriver or a long bolt between the crankshaft teeth to ensure it is static.
Next, use a 17 key to loosen the tensioner roller, which will entail loosening the timing belt.
First remove the belt, then the roller itself.
Remove the five bolts that secure the bottom of the pump to the timing belt.
Then unscrew the three bolts securing the top of the pump.
It is easy to pry the pump housing with a screwdriver and pull it out of the socket.
It is recommended to immediately clean the planting site from dust and old antifreeze. The remains of the old gasket must be removed.
It is recommended to lubricate the new pump gasket with sealant on both sides and carefully place it in the landing zone.
Install a new pump onto the gasket.
Assembly work is carried out in reverse order.

Video: DIY water pump replacement

Along with replacing the pump, it is recommended to immediately replace both the timing belt and the tensioner roller.

To replace it, it is better to use a water pump from the same manufacturer that was already installed on the car.

Shaft defects

Make sure the pump bolts are tightened correctly. They definitely need to fix this element of the system. However, they should not be over-tightened. Otherwise, you can damage the threads and jam the sealant.

When draining antifreeze from the system after finishing work, remove any air pockets. The liquid must be added to the level. After replacing the pump, the engine should be running and the system should be warm. Then it is checked for leaks.

If the car has a 16-valve system, replacing the pump will be a little more difficult. However, doing this procedure yourself is not difficult.

DIY pump repair VAZ 2110/2112

The driver does not always have the opportunity to replace a faulty pump. In some cases, it is possible to repair the device by restoring the operating functions of the pump. If the pump has not yet exhausted its service life (50 thousand kilometers), then you can repair it. However, the pump cannot be repaired without using a special repair kit. This is a set of rubber gaskets and parts that most often fail and need to be replaced.

Repair kits for pumps may vary in composition, depending on which spare parts need to be replaced

In addition, you will have to thoroughly prepare for repairs: the place for disassembling and repairing the pump must be clean and level.

How to disassemble a water pump

Once the pump is removed from the machine, it will need to be disassembled. Only after disassembly and thorough cleaning will it be possible to replace the leaked parts of the pump.

To disassemble the pump, it is recommended to follow the following diagram:

Wipe the product with a dry cloth.
Unscrew the pump pulley.
Pull out the thrust ring.
Use a hammer to knock out the bearings from the shaft.
Pull the shaft itself out of the housing.
Unfasten the impeller.
If something remains from the oil seal, then remove the remaining rubber from the housing.

The procedure for disassembling the water pump is intuitive: until you remove the pulley, it is impossible to get to the shaft and impeller

After this, the cavity of the pump itself must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and old deposits - you can wash the pump with the same gasoline that is usually filled into the VAZ 2110/2112 tank.

A visual inspection of the pump parts will show which element needs to be replaced. Typically, a pump leak is caused by rotting of the oil seal, and a whistle when the engine is running or a grinding noise at high speeds is caused by wear of the shaft.

Video: disassembling the pump

Replacing the oil seal

An oil seal is a gasket made of rubber and metal inserts. During normal pump repairs, changing the oil seal is included in the list of mandatory procedures, since the gasket is a rubber product in its structure, and therefore wears out quickly.

Replacing the oil seal is not difficult:

The old gasket is removed from the shaft.
The landing site is cleared of dirt.
A new oil seal is installed.

The rubber-metal product that ensures the tightness of the pump is called an oil seal.

Before installing the rubber seal, you can lubricate it with antifreeze so that the oil seal quickly “grinds” to the shaft.

Changing the shaft with bearings

Most often, it is the bearings that have become loose that need to be replaced. But knocking them out of the shaft is a very tedious task. In addition, a hydraulic vice is required, which not every driver has. Therefore, it is easier to replace the bearings along with the shaft.

Again, the procedure for replacing the shaft is not associated with difficulties: a new one is driven in in place of the old shaft.

It is not possible to knock out the old bearings from the pump, so it is easier to replace the shaft along with them

How to replace a pipe on a pump

Sometimes, due to unstable pressure in the cooling system, the antifreeze supply or discharge hoses may become deformed. New pipes cost pennies, and new metal mounting clamps are not difficult to buy.

If the pipe is swollen, this is a clear sign that the rubber will soon burst. Cracks and dents in the tube also indicate the need for prompt replacement.

To make a replacement, you must:

Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp.
Remove the clamp.
Disconnect the pipe from the pump.
Loosen the clamp on the back of the pipe and remove the fastener.
Remove the pipe from under the hood.

The clamp, when compressing the pipe, can severely damage the rubber, which can cause antifreeze leaks

Rules for disassembling the pump to circulate liquid

When the pump is removed from the car, it should be disassembled, cleaned, and problematic parts replaced:

rub the product with a rag;
unscrew the pump pulley;
pull out the stop ring;
remove the bearings from the crankshaft;
remove the impeller;
flush the pump with gasoline.

Most often, you will have to replace the oil seal, for which the worn gasket is removed from the shaft, deposits are removed from the seating area, and the oil seal is removed. Before the rubber seal is installed, you need to apply a cooling liquid so that it gets used.

Failed bearings can be replaced individually, or you can simply replace the entire shaft. You will need to easily drive a new one in place of the old shaft.

Why is a second pump needed in a car's design?

On some modern car models, a second pump is already installed from the factory. This equipment allows for the most reliable engine cooling under any load.

An additional pump on the car is required to create better cooling. If we talk about the owners of the tenth family of VAZs, then most often a second pump is installed to optimize the operation of the stove in winter.

In this case, the pump body is screwed to the motor body with a special bracket

Installing an additional water pump

The main advantage of the VAZ 2110/2112 is that the cars have a simple cooling system structure. Therefore, you can install a second pump and organize a small circle of antifreeze circulation without any problems. To work you need to prepare in advance:

new pump;
two hoses (one long, the other short);
sealant;
fastening elements (depending on where it will be easier to attach the pump: metal clamps, bolts and nuts).

It is necessary to assemble a low circulation unit from a new pump and hoses. To do this, two hoses are connected to the pump fittings and secured with clamps. It is important to follow the rule: the long pipe is responsible for supplying antifreeze to the pump, and the short pipe is responsible for draining it.

Before installing a new unit on the machine, you need to drain the coolant.

The installation procedure for the assembled unit is as follows:

Find two hoses near the cooling radiator (one of them supplies antifreeze to the stove, and the other performs a discharge function).
Disconnect the outlet pipe.
In its place, attach the assembled unit with the second pump.
Securely secure the new assembly with metal clamps.
It is recommended to attach the pump itself to the gearbox housing. You can secure the pump with clamps or bolt it to the bracket.
Fill with coolant and start the engine.
Check the second antifreeze circulation circuit for leaks.

Detailed information about replacing the pump in VAZ 2108-2109 cars is located in this article: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/ohlazhdenie/zamena-pompyi-vaz-2109.html

The essence of the procedure is to attach a small circle of liquid circulation with a second pump instead of a hose for supplying antifreeze

It should be noted that the additional pump will be started under the influence of the pressure created in the system by the first pump. Therefore, the second pump will last a long time and ensure thorough cooling of the engine even under the most aggressive operating conditions.

Thus, the whole difficulty of repairing and replacing the water pump on a VAZ 2110/2112 comes down to correctly removing the unit from the car and installing it back. Moreover, installing the pump takes much longer due to changing the timing belt and roller. The services of a specialist will cost approximately 1000–1500 rubles, so if you have doubts about your competence, it is better to pay the service station technicians and be confident that the water pump will be replaced correctly.

Also check out

Self-replacement of the VAZ 2110 CV joint
Self-adjustment of VAZ 2110 headlights at home
How to independently modify the VAZ 2107 stove by installing a VAZ 2108 “snail”

Remove the wheel to gain access to the bottom bolt that secures the plastic casing.
In the case we are considering, the timing belt is in good condition and does not need to be replaced. Therefore, the pump was replaced without removing the generator drive belt.
It was necessary to dismantle the plastic casing and also remove the pulleys with the camshaft rollers. This can be done if the tension rollers are loosened and the timing belt is removed from them.

DIY diagnostics and replacement of the pump on a BAZ 2110

Lock the camshaft gears using something flat. Unscrew them carefully so as not to damage their soft teeth.
After dismantling the pulleys, you can remove the plastic casing. One fastening bolt will have to be unscrewed from below through the space near the wheel. After this, access to the pump is free.

DIY diagnostics and replacement of the pump on a BAZ 2110

The VAZ 2110 water pump is attached using three hexagon mounting bolts. Unscrew them. After this, lightly knock on the pump body and try to pull it out.

DIY diagnostics and replacement of the pump on a BAZ 2110

Place a container to drain the coolant.
The new VAZ 2110 pump must be well lubricated. In addition, it is better to apply a thin layer of sealant to the paper gasket and let it dry.

After this, all the parts are assembled in reverse order:

Reinstall the water pump.
Place the plastic casing.
Secure the camshaft pulleys in place.
Using the previously made marks on the camshaft, put on the timing belt.
Use the wheel to turn the engine, adjust the correct tension and position of the belt. Upon completion of installation, add coolant.
Check the work.

Which pump to choose

There is no need to save money on purchasing the main coolant unit. Today the market is saturated with various types of pumps, with any pricing policy. For VAZ 2110 car owners who decide to replace the pump with their own hands for the first time, auto repair shop experts recommend paying attention to branded manufacturers such as: KolbenShmidt, SKF, GRAF, HEPU, Valeo, Quinton Hazell. It is not recommended to install: FEBI, Dolz, RUVILLE, Airtex, Pex.

On a VAZ 2110, in addition to replacing the pump, it is advisable to update the timing belt and tension roller. It is better to purchase them as a set from manufacturers: Contitech, Gates, Lemforder, SKF.

For reference! If imported auto parts are not available in the VAZ store, then you can leave a request in the “Spare parts for foreign cars” order desk. This method is practiced by experienced car owners, since the parts purchased are of higher quality. According to reviews from such buyers, the personal budget does not feel much difference.

Cost and prices of work

Luzar pump.

The price of a water pump for an 8-valve VAZ-2110 engine ranges from 700 to 1000 rubles.

For repair work to install it at the service, you will have to pay at least 1000 rubles . However, there is no need to overpay for the installation of the pump, since you can install it yourself.

What do you need to know during installation?

That's it, the old pump was successfully removed from our car. The VAZ-2110 is then equipped with a new part. This can be done without any special tools. In principle, installation of the pump (VAZ-2110, 2112) is carried out in the reverse order, similar to removal, however, several important points should be noted here.

Firstly, the new part must contain lubricant. Often it is already there. But if it is not there, be sure to lubricate the element. Secondly, if the VAZ 2110 model pump has a paper gasket, apply sealant to it and wait 10-15 minutes for it to dry. Afterwards you can install the part in place.