DIY pump repair for Zhiguli VAZ 2101-07 cars

Repair / From Autoclub

• Pump repair manual
  Preparatory stage - removing the part
• How to remove and change the impeller

  Video: technology for dismantling the impeller

The water pump of the cooling system on classic VAZ 2101–07 models is not reliable. On average, the mileage of a part is 40 thousand km, after which it fails and must be replaced. But for the skilled Zhiguli owner there is another way - to remove and repair the pump, replacing worn or broken elements: oil seal, bearing or impeller. If this approach is close to you, then before starting work you should study the detailed instructions for restoring the “classic” pumping unit.

What is a pump?

First, a few words about what a VAZ 2107 pump is and what you can expect if it suddenly leaks. In fact, this is an ordinary liquid pump, which consists of a housing, a rotor, an impeller, and a drive pulley. On classic series cars, it is driven from the crankshaft using an alternator belt. It is also worth mentioning that on older machines a fan was installed on the drive pulley. But this was at a time when electric radiator fans were not even dreamed of.

What happens if the VAZ 2107 pump leaks? First, a lot of coolant is lost. Therefore, before each trip you need to fill the expansion tank with antifreeze. Secondly, heat transfer deteriorates, and a significant increase in temperature is possible. Thirdly, air pockets may appear, which also cause poor engine cooling.

Additional coolant pump

However, such a mechanical drive, thanks to which the VAZ 2106, 2107 pump pumps water, has a serious drawback. The use of such a drive results in the pump running while the engine is running. If, when you turn it off, the motor is overheated, then overheating can only intensify in the future.

To avoid this phenomenon, an additional electrically driven pump is used. Thanks to its use, antifreeze circulation is ensured after the engine is turned off. Its operation continues until the temperature in the system reaches a certain value. Depending on the design, when the auxiliary pump is turned on, the general electrically driven fan may also turn on.

During the operation of the car, this happens quite often, especially in the summer. This additional device only works when the engine is turned off and protects it from overheating, which prolongs its “life”.

Replacing the VAZ 2107 pump

Before you begin, you will need to completely drain the engine cooling system. To do this, you need to unscrew two plugs one by one - on the engine block and in the lower part of the radiator. This is how easy it is to drain the antifreeze in a VAZ 2107. After waiting until all the antifreeze has drained, you can begin to carry out repairs. First of all, remove the generator belt; to do this, slightly unscrew the nut on the bracket. Please note that most often the part of the VAZ 2107 liquid pump in which the impeller is located is changed.

The second half does not contain any specific elements, so the maximum that can happen to it is destruction as a result of mechanical impact (impact) or corrosion. So, to disassemble the pump, you will need to unscrew the bolts securing the pulley to the rotor. Then, using a wrench set to “13”, unscrew the nuts that secure the two halves of the VAZ 2107 pump. Place a flat-head screwdriver between the halves and separate them.

The fact is that disconnecting can be problematic, since silicone sealant could have been used during assembly. In addition, the gasket itself may become stuck to the body over time. Before installing a new pump, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the second half, which is installed on the engine. Then install the gasket (new, of course), you can coat it with a thin layer of sealant for reliability. Reinstall the pump and tighten the nuts. Tighten them after 5-10 minutes, when the sealant dries a little.

Pump repair manual

To troubleshoot the VAZ 2101-07 water pump, you need to remove it from the car. Replacing a pulley is an exception; in this case, the pump does not need to be disassembled. To carry out repair work, prepare the following set of tools and materials:

• hammer;
• flat screwdriver;
• standard set of sockets and keys (sizes 9-22 mm);
• mounting surface (mount);
• 10 liter capacity and 1 m long garden hose for draining antifreeze from the cylinder block;
• 1 liter of antifreeze for topping up;
• cloth rags and gloves.

Resetting the water pump will require standard plumbing tools.

To replace the pulley you will need keys and a crowbar; no need for frost tray and hose.

Separately, to remove the impeller, you need to prepare a bolt remover with external thread M18x1.5. It is also very desirable to have a vice; without them, disassembling the pump is extremely inconvenient. If you need to remove the new style plastic impeller, be sure to have an M18 x 1.5 tap ready to tap the threads in it. Old metal impellers are molded at the factory.

To cut high-quality threads, you need to use 2 taps - numbers one and two

Preparatory stage - removing the part

Before disassembling the unit, it is necessary to empty the water jacket of the engine so that antifreeze does not flow through the technological hole after disassembling the pump. To do this, unscrew the bolt - the cap located on the left wall of the cylinder block (if you look towards the car). Place a bowl and tube under the hole to avoid spilling antifreeze on the ground.

To drain the cylinder block, unscrew the cap and remove the radiator cap

After unscrewing the plug on the block, open the top radiator plug - the coolant will drain faster.

When the flow of antifreeze subsides and begins to flow down the wall of the block, screw the cap back on and begin disassembling the unit, performed according to the detailed instructions:

Using a 17mm wrench, loosen the nut on the long alternator mounting bolt located under the alternator housing. There is no need to completely unscrew the nut.

To release the generator and loosen the belt, unscrew the nut under its seat.

The generator drive belt, which rotates the pump pulley, is removed after unscrewing the lock nut on the bracket

The pump is removed after unscrewing the four mounting nuts

It is more convenient to loosen the pump pulley fastenings when the generator drive belt is tense, which prevents the shaft from rotating.

When the belt is tensioned, it is easier to unscrew the pulley bolts

After disassembling, clean the water pump seat from gasket and sealant residues, and also clean the engine and adjacent components from drops of antifreeze.

How to remove and change the impeller

Practice shows that destruction of the impeller blades occurs from contact with the mating part of the housing when the pump shaft is very weakened. Therefore, failure of the blades of other efficient pumping elements occurs extremely rarely and is the result of a manufacturing defect. But if you find only such a malfunction, the procedure will be limited to replacing the impeller without further disassembling the part.

Failure of the impeller is usually accompanied by wear of the pump bearing.

On water pumps of VAZ 2101-07 cars there are two types of impellers:

• old model, metal, with M18 internal thread with a pitch of 1.5 mm;
• new champion: wireless plastic elements.

All new impellers are made without internal threads

Impellers of both types are attached to the shaft in the same way, pressing them with interference. The new plastic element is dismantled in the following order:

1. Secure the shaft hub in a vice and drive the thread into the impeller. Before use, lubricate the device with motor oil or other liquid oil.
2. Screw the bolt puller into the hole and lightly tighten the outer bolt.
3. By turning the head of the inner bolt clockwise, pull the impeller out and remove it from the shaft.

The inner bolt of the puller rests on the end of the shaft and pushes the impeller up

Old metal elements (more precisely, cast iron) are simply crushed with a puller, since the threads in them are already cut by the manufacturer.

The new impeller is placed on the shaft and pressed with light blows of a hammer through the adapter so as not to break the blades. Pay special attention to the connection of the element: the lower part should rest against the graphite ring on the oil seal, then set it to 2-3 mm (there is a spring inside). The flat surface of the rotating impeller is pressed tightly against the ring, ensuring a tight connection.

After installation, the bottom edge of the impeller should be against the oil seal ring.

Video: technology for dismantling the impeller

Instructions for replacing the bearing and oil seal

In pumps of classic Zhiguli models, the bearing and shaft are unique spare parts and are sold assembled. As a result, if the shaft breaks, it is also replaced along with the roller bearing.

The pump shaft is sold assembled with bearing and is available in various lengths

When buying a new shaft for a VAZ 2101-07 water pump, be sure to take the old part with you to the store. The fact is that there are repair kits on sale for various cars that differ in the length and diameter of the axle, and the seller does not always understand such details.

To replace the shaft, proceed as follows:

1. Pull out the impeller using a puller as described in the previous section.
2. Loosen and remove the locking screw using a flathead screwdriver.
3. Hold the case pump with one hand and hit the weight with the end of the shaft with a hammer. If the part does not give way, clamp the pump in a vice and pull it out of the wood through the guide.

After dismantling the impeller, the old wood is knocked down with a hammer

The hub is pressed onto the shaft with light blows of a hammer

When inserting the bearing into the housing race, ensure that the set screw holes line up on both sides. Do not try to tighten the cap too much, otherwise the next time you replace it there will be problems with disassembly and the pump will have to be completely replaced.

The oil seal is removed by rotating the shaft with the thick end

If you need to replace a leaking oil seal, you can easily get rid of it by using the old shaft. Sand the bearing housing, then flip it over and insert it into the pump hole. Then hammer the steel axle until the oil seal falls off. This is due to the fact that the second end of the shaft under the hub is shorter and larger in diameter. Insert the new oil seal into the seat as far as it will go using a round adapter, such as by cutting off a tube.

The gland is well inserted into the body using a mandrel

Installing a new pulley

Replacing the water pump pulley is simple and does not require removing the part from the engine or draining the coolant. The easiest way to disassemble is as follows:

1. First, loosen the three bolts holding the pulley in place.
2. Loosen the nuts holding the alternator and belt tension.
3. Support the generator with a mounting blade, press it against the engine and remove the belt.
4. Unscrew the 3 fastening bolts by hand and remove the pulley.

To replace the pulley, you do not need to drain the antifreeze and disassemble the pump

Installation of a new spare part and assembly of the unit are carried out in the reverse order. Follow the procedure: first install the pulley and tighten the bolts as much as possible with a wrench, then put on the belt. The final tightening of the pulley is done after tensioning the generator drive belt.

Video: how pump parts are changed

Final stage

And at the end of this epic there will be installation of the generator belt and pouring antifreeze into the system. If everything with the belt is extremely clear and simple, then with refueling several questions may arise. One of the main ones is how many liters of antifreeze are in the VAZ 2107, what is the volume of the cooling system?

This question is often of interest to drivers, since they need to know which canister of liquid to buy in the store. Take 10 liters, this will be enough, there will even be a lot left for refilling. The price of a canister of antifreeze of this volume will be about 800 rubles. But the price of a liquid called “antifreeze” (green or red) is one hundred rubles more expensive.

And now let’s talk about how to properly fill fluid into a VAZ 2107. In particular, this guide will help you if you are having an emergency or scheduled fluid change. So, it is advisable to install the car correctly - the front part is slightly raised.

Pump VAZ 2107

The water pump (VAZ 2107 pump) is no different from the units installed on other “classic” models. This is a housing (cover) with a shaft with an impeller installed inside. The movement of the coolant is ensured by the movement of the impeller blades rotating on the shaft. That is, it is a centrifugal type pump.

Torque is transmitted to the shaft from a pulley mounted on the engine crankshaft through a belt, which at the same time rotates the car’s electric generator. On older VAZ models, the pump pulley was used for another function - for attaching a fan for forced cooling of the radiator. But the VAZ 2107 is equipped with an electric cooling fan, so this part is missing.

Coolant pump VAZ 2106, device, principle of operation

On VAZ 2106, 2107 cars, the pump that pumps antifreeze or water through the engine jacket is located on the side of it. The drive to ensure its operation is not electric, but is carried out from the engine crankshaft using pulleys and a belt. Structurally, the pump is a closed volume, inside of which there is a shaft with an impeller. Using hoses at its inlet, through a pipe, cold water is supplied from the radiator.

Rotation of the impeller is ensured through a pulley and a belt drive thanks to the torque coming from the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine. The rotating impeller creates pressure, due to which water enters the engine jacket, as well as other components that ensure the removal and use of excess heat.

It should be noted that the operation of the remaining components of the system is not considered here, and issues related to the circulation of antifreeze also remain uncovered.

VAZ 2107 pump malfunctions

This unit has a fairly simple design, so the faults are not too varied: a coolant leak or a bearing failure.

They are often connected, but the consequences of these two breakdowns should be separated. In the first case, a critical decrease in the antifreeze level and engine overheating is possible. It will be possible to drive some distance, you will have to add antifreeze (if there is none, water). In the second case, the bearing may jam, which will lead to a break in the pump belt and a complete lack of engine cooling. In this case, you will not be able to continue moving.

In both cases, an immediate replacement of the VAZ 2107 pump is necessary, since this unit cannot be repaired.

Let's summarize

When performing the replacement according to the instructions above, the work will take you no more than an hour. At a service station, the price for replacing a VAZ 2107 pump is from 600 to 1000 rubles. Due to the simplicity of the work, you can do the replacement yourself and spend the money saved on other car components that require attention.

The VAZ 2107 is a fairly popular car in Russia, due to its unpretentiousness and ease of operation. However, this machine has many components that require periodic attention for the purpose of prevention or repair work, and the pump is one of them.

Replacing the pump

Before you begin replacing the pump, you must drain the coolant from the radiator and engine. To do this, you need to remove the radiator cap and sequentially unscrew the cap on the radiator and cylinder block, exposing the container to drain the antifreeze. When the cooling system is empty (or the coolant level is below the pump mounting level), you can begin replacing the pump. To do this, you need to perform the following operations:

• remove the generator belt by first loosening the nut and reducing its tension;

• loosen the nut securing the generator and move it closer to the splash guard;
• Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the pump pulley and remove it;
• unscrew and remove the coolant supply pipes;
• unscrew the pump and remove it from the cylinder block;
• remove the sealing gasket (it must be replaced when removing the pump);
• unscrew the 4 nuts on the pump and disassemble it;

• install a new pump pump with o-rings (they, like the sealing gasket, cannot be used twice);
• Reassemble all parts in reverse order.

Preparing for repairs

Before starting work, you need to cool the engine. Do not try to carry out repairs on a hot engine, as this may result in burns. It is optimal if the temperature drops to 40-50 degrees. If you plan to replace the pump in the injection system, but you are not going to fill in new antifreeze, you need to prepare a clean container for draining. For greater convenience, disconnect and remove the battery. This will free up space for work.

Now your task is to get rid of the antifreeze in the oven. Open the stove tap to drain all the liquid. First, unscrew the plug on the radiator. Under it, of course, set the container to 10 liters. Wait until all the antifreeze has drained; to speed up the process, open the cap on the radiator. Then unscrew the bronze bolt on the engine block - this is the second plug. That's all, the antifreeze has been drained, and it is now possible to replace the pump on a VAZ 2107 car.

Features of pouring antifreeze (antifreeze)

After replacing the VAZ 2107 pump, all that remains is to tighten the alternator belt and fill in the coolant. The latter will need about 10 liters.

To add antifreeze without creating air locks in the cooling system, you should do the following:

• position the car so that the front is higher than the rear. Then the heating radiator will be lower than the other elements of the system.

• disconnect the thin hose of the cooling system going to the carburetor or throttle valve (depending on whether the carburetor or injection type of engine is installed on the car);
• open the plugs on the expansion tank and radiator;
• make sure that the drain plugs are installed and carefully tightened;
• pour antifreeze (antifreeze) into the radiator using a watering can;
• push the rubber hoses of the cooling system with your hands, expelling the air (the fluid level will drop);
• fill the radiator to the brim and close the cap;
• pour coolant into the expansion tank and close it;
• start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature;
• With the engine running, squeeze and release the cooling hoses several times to remove remaining air from the system;
• add fluid to the expansion tank to the recommended level.
• install the hose going to the throttle and tighten the clamp.

There is another way to ventilate the cooling system, but it is shown in this video:

One of the prerequisites for the correct operation of the cooling system of any internal combustion engine is uniform and constant circulation of the coolant. This applies to both air-cooled and water-cooled engines. By the way, it is in vain that air systems are accused of low efficiency, and this has been proven for many years by rear-engined Volkswagens, Porsches, and Zaporozhets are tired of proving it. VAZ classic engines traditionally use the Fiat liquid cooling system, which has served faithfully for decades. However, low-quality spare parts and improper operation can spoil the owner’s blood.

Features of the cooling system of classic Lada

The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is actually no different from other engines built on the basis of the Fiat 124 engine. It is not our plan to describe its operation and design, however, the pump bears the main load and is responsible for the circulation of the coolant. Despite the simplicity of the water pump design, it is subject to a whole bunch of requirements, and failure to comply with at least one of them can cause an antifreeze leak or disruption of its circulation. As a result, the motor will overheat with all the ensuing consequences.

Coolant circulation pump

It is best to consider the operation of such a product using the example of VAZ 2106, 2107 cars. But first of all, to understand the role that the coolant pump plays in heat removal, we must at least remember in general what this whole process is. It is shown schematically in the figure below, which allows you to evaluate the directions of movement of water during its circulation.

In this figure, to make the process more understandable, the stove is not shown. However, even without this element, the picture allows us to appreciate that it is thanks to the circulation of the liquid that heat is removed from the engine cylinders.

It is for its continuous movement that the pump is designed. If circulation is disrupted, heat dissipation deteriorates, the motor overheats, and if the set temperature is significantly exceeded, it can lead to jamming of the pistons.

Price and design of the pump for the VAZ 2107

The pump itself is inexpensive and, depending on the manufacturer, its price can range from 500 to 900 rubles. Zhiguli pumps are produced by dozens of enterprises in the Russian Federation and dozens of imported companies. No one can give unambiguous recommendations on choosing one manufacturer or another, since due to the irrelevance of the model, the quality of spare parts varies greatly. There are also shafts with pressed bearings on sale at a price of about 200-300 rubles for those who like to tinker.

Another sore spot of the water pump remains the impeller itself. The branded VAZ pump was produced with a cast iron impeller, and more modern technologies made it possible to cast it from composite materials. Which impeller is better is a big question, since antifreeze can be used in completely different ways and no one knows how the material will react to it. Uncertified coolants can turn a polymer impeller into nuclear ash, while with good antifreeze it can last more than 150 thousand km. But it can be quite the opposite - a low-quality cast iron alloy can corrode even when working with a good liquid.

How to check the pump on a VAZ 2107

Since there is a need to check the pump, there are problems in the cooling system, namely, overheating of the engine or obvious signs of a pump malfunction. It could be:

• increased noise coming from the pump when the engine is running;
• obvious leaks on the shaft under the pulley;
• antifreeze leakage through the housing gasket;
• increased play on the pump shaft;
• lack of antifreeze circulation and, as a result, engine overheating.

The fluid circulation may simply be insufficient, that is, the pressure in the cooling system is not normal. This can only happen in one case. The VAZ 2107 injector pump is designed for high performance, and if you install a conventional pump from a carburetor engine, its performance may not be enough and the engine will overheat.

Actually, diagnosing the condition of the pump is not difficult. Obviously, the pump requires replacement if there are gaps and fluid leaks. However, it is possible to check the pump's performance by eye. To do this, with the engine warmed up to operating temperature, you need to briefly clamp the upper hose going to the radiator. If, after releasing the hose, a pressure surge is felt, there is nothing wrong with the impeller and the fluid is circulating normally.

Changing the pump on a classic

Replacing a VAZ 2107 pump will not cause any difficulties and will only take an hour or an hour and a half. You don’t need to have any special devices; a standard set of keys will be enough. The operating algorithm is simple:

1. Drain the antifreeze through the tap on the cylinder block (if you do not need to change it completely).
2. Remove the drive belt of the generator and pump; to do this, loosen the nut securing the generator to the bracket and move it as far back as possible.
3. Unscrew the pump pulley and remove it.
4. Unscrew the pump, remove it from the block, clean the mating surface of the old sealant or gasket.
5. The new gasket is coated with sealant on both sides, but before that it is tried on in the holes, after which it is installed on the prepared, cleaned mating plane, a new pump is installed, and assembly is done in the reverse order.

This way you can quickly and effortlessly replace the pump on the seven, saving at least one and a half thousand rubles. This is exactly how much they charge at the service station for this operation. Don't overheat the engine and good luck to everyone!

Main signs of pump failure

But how can you determine whether a VAZ 2107 needs a pump replacement? In fact, there is nothing simpler; all diagnostics can be carried out visually. First, there should be no fluid leakage. If they are present, then most likely there is damage to the gasket or oil seal. Very rarely, tightening a screw that has become loose due to vibration will help. Unfortunately, this also happens sometimes.

Secondly, there should be no play in the pump shaft. To check it, you need to remove it and try to rotate the rotor by hand. There should be no jamming or play during axial displacement. Third, there should be no extraneous sounds. For example, when a bearing wears out, a whistle is often heard. But before you replace the pump, make sure that the breakdown lies precisely in it, because the generator has a similar symptom. And most importantly, tension the belt correctly.