Replacement of front shock absorbers (for use on VAZ-2106 / VAZ-2103 models)

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Shock absorber design

The design of shock absorbers for any car, including AvtoVAZ products, is quite simple and consists of a cylinder with a rod filled with oil. It is known from a physics course that the liquid compressed by the piston rod is capable of damping shock vibrations and loads, and it is this principle that forms the basis for the design of this unit. In the VAZ suspension design of the “classic” layout, the shock absorbers work in tandem with springs, providing additional damping of vertical vibrations.

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Maintenance

We are interested in replacing the more wearable shock absorbers on the VAZ 2106 - the front ones. They are more susceptible to wear and tear since they are directly involved in operating the machine. It is worth noting that all shock absorbers can last up to 70 thousand kilometers before they have to be replaced during the next maintenance. However, before starting work, it is worth making sure that they do not seem to be completely worn out. First of all, you need to visually inspect the shock absorbers - if there are traces of heavy oil leaks, then they definitely need to be changed. Indirect signs that it is time to change the shock absorbers on your VAZ 2106 are a deterioration in the car's stability when cornering and the appearance of an annoying knock in the front suspension. There is also one popular method for determining their condition.

You need to approach the car from the back or front, depending on what mechanisms you suspect, and press firmly on the hood and trunk. If, after you remove your hands, the car rocks as if on waves, the shock absorbers need to be replaced.

If the body immediately returned, then everything is in order and the cause of the indirect signs is something else.

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Features of repair of shock absorber mounts

The designers of VAZ cars of the classic family did not provide for the possibility of serious loads when designing the design of the upper mounts for the rear dampers. Therefore, many car enthusiasts encounter problems when installing rear struts on the upper mounts.

The upper mounts are metal studs secured to the body cross member at the rear of the car. Over time, metal fatigue appears at the fastening points due to the constant loads from the operation of the dampers, so the metal studs often crack and break off, or the fastenings themselves fail.

To solve problems with the upper fastenings, owners of classic Lada cars often resort to replacing the studs with new ones. To do this, holes are cut out at the locations of the fasteners using a grinder and the old studs are removed.

After that, new steel pins and washers are installed in the mounting holes, and the fastening points are securely welded with a welding machine.

You can safely install new shock absorbers on new mounts and not worry about the reliability of the mounts.

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How to replace the rear ones

Diagram of the rear suspension and components

Replacing rear shock absorbers is approximately similar in complexity to replacing front shock absorbers and includes the following operations:

  1. Raising the car using a jack (in this case, wheel chocks should be placed under the front wheels).
  2. Using two keys and holding the bolt from turning, the lower hinge fastening nut is unscrewed.
  3. After removing the bolt, pull out the spacer sleeve.
  4. The shock absorber should be slightly moved away from the bracket by hand, after which the spacer sleeve should be removed from the bolt.
  5. After performing these operations, you should unscrew the nut securing the upper hinge, remove the washer from the stud, as well as the outer hinge bushing. Dismantling the latter is not necessary.
  6. Then you should remove the inner sleeve from the stud, after which, holding the shock absorber by the body, you should remove the spacer sleeve, as well as the rubber seals in the hinge lugs.
  7. Upon completion of the work, the shock absorber is changed and assembly is performed in the reverse order.

Regardless of whether you are replacing struts at the front or rear, it is recommended to check and replace all rubber bands and seals after disassembling the shock absorber with new ones.

Important! Before installing a new shock absorber, it must be bled. Read more about pumping shock absorbers in this article.

How to change rear shock absorbers: video

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Replacing front shock absorbers on a VAZ “Classic”

Structurally, the front suspension of VAZ cars belonging to the “Classic” (VAZ-2101-2107) is the same, the sequence of work on replacing shock absorbers for these cars is identical, so let’s consider it using the example of the VAZ-2107.

The replacement work is not that complicated, so you can do it yourself. At the same time, you don’t need so many tools:

  • Special key for holding the shock absorber rod;
  • Open-end and socket wrenches 17;
  • Open-end or socket wrench 13;
  • WD-40.

Naturally, before starting work you need to stock up on new front suspension shock absorbers. It is better to drive the car into a pit or overpass.

First, the upper shock absorber mount becomes loose. To do this, you need to open the hood and find technological holes in the wings that provide access to the shock absorber rod mounting nut.

Before loosening, you need to wipe the nut from dust and treat it with WD-40.

To unscrew the nut, you will need to hold the shock absorber rod, for which you will need a special wrench with a small slot for its upper edges.

In the absence of such a wrench, you can use a regular open-end wrench size 6.

But there is a small nuance in this - over time, the fit of the nut becomes so tight that in order to hold the rod, it may be necessary to extend the arm of the wrench with a piece of pipe that holds the rod.

And since the open-end wrench is quite small, a significant force can simply break it. Therefore, it is better to use a special key, which will be more difficult to break.

So, while holding the rod, use a 17mm wrench to unscrew the nut of the upper shock absorber mounting as shown above.

After this, the spring washer installed under the nut is removed, as well as the pillow washer and the upper pillow itself.

Next you need to move under the car. The shock absorber at the bottom is attached to the lower arm using a bracket.

To disconnect it from the lever, you need to unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket. To do this, you will need a 13mm wrench; to make work easier, it is better to treat the joint with WD-40.

After unscrewing these bolts, you can pull the shock absorber down along with the bracket. Then the bracket is disconnected from the removed shock absorber.

To do this, you need to use two 17mm wrenches, an open-end and a socket.

Don't forget to remove the bottom cushion.

Before installing a new shock absorber, a bracket is attached to it, using new rubber elements - silent blocks.

First you need to secure the shock absorber to the top. To do this, the rod is completely pulled out, a new lower cushion must be put on it, after which it is inserted into the upper hole.

At the top, to prevent the rod from falling out of the hole, it must be secured with a nut, not forgetting to first install the top cushion, its washer and spring washer. In this case, there is no need to tighten the nut; the main thing is to prevent the stem from falling out.

Then you need to screw the shock absorber bracket to the lower arm, the bolts should be tightened completely.

Then the upper nut is tightened, which requires holding the rod back with a wrench.

The front shock absorber is replaced in the same way on the other side.

Important point:

If the work was carried out on a lift or the car was jacked up for ease of work, the fastening bolts must be tightened with the car lowered so that the suspension is under the load of the weight of the car.

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Purpose and design of shock absorbers VAZ 2106

The design of the front and rear suspension of the VAZ “six” uses shock absorbers to dampen sudden vibrations. Since they, like other elements of the car, fail over time, it is worth dwelling in more detail on the signs of malfunctions, selection and replacement of these suspension parts.

Shock absorber design

The VAZ 2106 is usually equipped with two-pipe oil shock absorbers. The difference between the front and rear dampers lies in the size, the method of mounting the upper part and the presence of a buffer 37 at the front shock-absorbing element, which limits travel during reverse movement. The design of the rear shock absorber is made of a reservoir 19 with a mounting ear, compression valves (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7), a working cylinder 21, a rod 20 with a piston element, and a casing 22 with an eye. The reservoir 19 is a tubular element made of steel. An eye 1 is fixed in its lower part, and a thread is made on top for a nut 29. The eye has a recess into which the body 2 is placed together with the valve discs. It is supported against the recess by cylinder 21.

The cavity between the reservoir and the cylinder is filled with liquid. The working cylinder contains a rod 20 and a piston 10. The latter has valve channels - bypass and return. The cylinder has a compression valve at the bottom. In the valve body 2 there is a socket to which discs 3 and 4 are pressed. When the piston moves at a low frequency, the liquid pressure decreases through a cutout in disc 4. The valve body at the bottom has a groove and vertical channels, and in the cage 7 there are holes that allow liquid to pass through from the working tank and back. In the upper part of the cylinder there is a sleeve 23 with a sealing element 24, and the output of the rod is sealed with a cuff 26 and a holder 25. The parts that are located at the top of the cylinder are supported by a nut 29 with four holes for the key. Silent blocks 38 are installed in the shock absorber eyes.

Dimensions

The shock-absorbing elements of the front of the “six” are quite soft, which is especially noticeable when hitting a bump: the front of the car sways strongly. The softness of the rear shock absorbers is the same as the front ones. The only difference is that here it doesn’t feel that way due to the lightness of the rear. It is also worth noting that the dampers are not divided into right and left, since they are completely identical.

Table: dimensions of shock absorbers VAZ 2106

vendor codeRod diameter, mmCase diameter, mmBody height (excluding stem), mmRod stroke, mm
2101–2905402 2101–2905402–022101–2905402–04 (front)1241217108
2101–2915402–02 2101–2915402–04 (rear)12,541306183

Principle of operation

The operation of shock-absorbing elements is based on the principle of creating high resistance to body rocking, which is ensured by the forced passage of the working medium through the holes in the valves. When the element in question is compressed, the wheels of the machine move up, while the piston of the device goes down and squeezes the liquid from the bottom of the cylinder up through the spring element of the bypass valve. Some of the liquid flows into the reservoir. When the shock absorber rod moves smoothly, the force generated by the fluid will be small, and the working fluid passes into the reservoir through the hole in the throttle disc.

How to understand that shock absorbers are already faulty

Experienced motorists themselves are able to determine the condition of the chassis. They observe how the car behaves on the road and draw the appropriate conclusion. This is quite easy to notice; a car with sagging shock absorbers above 70 km/h begins to skid along the road. Moreover, when you drive over a hole or bump, you hear a characteristic knock, this sound comes specifically from the chassis.

You can also check the condition of the shock absorbers yourself. It is enough to be near the car. The procedure is as follows: you need to press on any edge of the body to the limit, for example, on the rear. After this, sharply release, a working shock absorber of the car should quickly and smoothly raise the body. But what if the body has risen to the maximum upper point and begins to fall down, in other words, just swaying? In this case, bad news awaits you: your car requires replacing the rear shock absorbers.

An external inspection of the chassis is just as effective. A bent rod or oily smudges will tell you that the system is already worn out and requires repair.

Front pillar repair

You can repair and bleed the front strut yourself, but you need to buy a new oil seal and seal ring, they are sold as a repair kit. You also need to purchase a spindle oil to pump the oil rack. Gas shock absorbers in the struts are not pumped, they are disposable and not dismountable, they are replaced entirely with new ones.

Photo. We knock down the limiter support.

Photo. It is shown how to unscrew the nut of the strut housing with a bit.

I won’t explain all the intricacies of disassembling the front strut, because just be careful and you yourself will understand where everything is, and you can easily change the oil seal and O-ring. But if the strut rod has severe scuffing, then it must be replaced with a new one.

Photo. The insides of the strut, the arrow shows the oil seal and the O-ring, which must be changed when bleeding the oil strut.

I pour oil into the shock absorber of the strut like this, insert the shock absorber into the strut and lower the rod down, fill the oil up to the threads, and without pulling the shock absorber out of the strut, lift the rod, and again add oil, assemble the strut, but do not tighten it, then lower the rod and the excess oil is squeezed out, But I don’t lower the rod all the way, I leave it about twenty millimeters, and I tighten it. After such bleeding, the strut shock absorber works great.

Tools and materials

To carry out the entire scope of work, a limited number of tools and materials will be required. First of all, you need to acquire:

  • shock absorbers;
  • key at 6, 17, 13, 19;
  • locksmith tool.

This is quite enough
to do all the work efficiently.
Before starting it, you should think about installing the car on an observation deck or lift. This is the only way to easily reach the element being replaced. The car must be on wheels, and the distance from its bottom to the ground should be approximately 50 cm
.

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