We independently check the voltage regulator relay on the VAZ 2106

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Checking the generator voltage regulator may be necessary when problems with the battery begin to occur. In particular, it began to undercharge or overcharge. When such a malfunction occurs, it’s time to check the generator voltage regulator relay.

The relay should turn off at 14.2-14.5V

The task of this simple device is to regulate the voltage of the electric current that is supplied from the generator to the battery. When it fails, the battery is either not charged enough or, on the contrary, overcharged, which is also dangerous, since this significantly reduces the battery life.

Agree that such a prospect is not very good because of one small detail. This is why it is so important to monitor the operating condition of the voltage regulator (it can also be called a pill or a chocolate bar). But in order to properly check the voltage regulator, you need to know its type and several important features.

Types of Voltage Regulators

Having understood what types of these devices there are, what their features and properties are, a complete understanding of the procedures carried out during testing will come. This will also give the answer to what scheme, in what way and how to check the generator voltage regulator. There are two types of regulators:

In the first case, it is meant that the regulator housing is combined with the brush assembly directly in the generator housing. In the second case, the regulator is a separate unit, which is located on the car body, in the engine compartment, and wires from the generator go to it, and wires from it go to the battery.

A special feature of the regulators is that their housings are non-separable. They are usually filled with sealant or special resin. And there is no particular point in repairing them, since the device is inexpensive. Therefore, the main problem in this regard is to check the generator voltage regulator relay. Regardless of the type of regulator, the voltage symptoms will be the same.

Connecting the unit

Before discarding the device, you should make sure that other parts are in good condition. The belt, alternator, battery, and wires are subject to inspection. The lack of charging of the VAZ 2106 may be caused by a loose belt. If the unit was removed before checking, you should make sure that the wires are connected correctly.

Replacing the voltage regulator is done in a garage. Even an inexperienced driver can do this. You will need a tool, skillful hands and a little knowledge.

Open the hood to find the remote relay. In the Zhiguli, the box is attached with lugs to the left wing. We find the object near the brake fluid reservoir. Some relays are built into the generator housing. People call them integrals.

Do not rush to remove the wiring from the terminals. Experienced car enthusiasts are advised to first mark the wires with a marker. There are 2 gray and orange wires suitable for the VAZ voltage regulator. They are attached to terminals numbered 67 and 15. Do not mix up the wires. The gray color corresponds to the number 67, and the orange color corresponds to 15.

At the end, a re-check is carried out. Diagnosing and replacing the voltage regulator does not require much effort. It is not necessary to go to a service station. Save yourself the expense of material costs and repair the car yourself.

Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors

The generator in cars is designed to generate electricity and charge the battery. If the normal operation of a car electric generator is disrupted, the battery begins to discharge and soon the car will stop starting completely - there is not enough battery charge. This device consists of a three-phase diode bridge, which, in turn, has 6 silicon diodes. Electrical voltage is created by the excitation of the rectifier at the moment when the rotor poles change under the stator windings. When the rotor rotates inside the machine stator, the poles of the rotor change. To increase the value of magnetic fluxes, the stator contains an electromagnetic exciting winding in the area of ​​the magnetic cores. Marking and designation of wires:

• P - pink.
• F - purple.
• O - orange.
• B&W - black and white.
• KB - brown and white.
• CHG - black and blue.
• K - brown.
• H - black.
• B - white.

Symptoms of a problem

So, in case of low voltage, the battery simply will not charge. That is, in the morning you will not be able to start the car, the lights on the dashboard may not even light up, or troubles will arise while driving. For example, dim headlights at night, unstable operation of the electrical system (problems with electrical appliances - wipers, heaters, radio, etc.).

In case of increased voltage, there is a high probability of a decrease in the electrolyte level in the battery banks, or its boiling. A white coating may also appear on the battery case. When overcharging, the battery may behave inappropriately.

Signs, malfunctions and repair of the generator and voltage regulator

In addition, you can also identify the following signs of a faulty voltage regulator (in some cases, some of them may or may not be present, it all depends on the specific situation):

• the control light on the dashboard (although this may be a sign of other malfunctions, for example, that it has burned out, the contact has fallen out, and so on);
• after starting, the battery indicator on the dashboard does not go out, that is, there are obvious malfunctions in charging the battery;
• the brightness of the headlights becomes dependent on the engine speed (you can check this somewhere in a deserted place by placing the car against a wall and accelerating - if the glow changes, then most likely the voltage regulator is faulty);
• the car stopped starting normally the first time;
• The battery is constantly ;
• when the engine speed exceeds 2000 rpm, the indicators on the dashboard turn off ;
• the dynamic characteristics of the car decrease , this is especially noticeable at high engine speeds;
• In some cases, the battery may boil .

Unsustainable breakdown - hurry up with repairs!

It would seem that there is something wrong here - there is not enough tension. The car runs on gasoline, not electricity. However, a lack of current power leads to an increase in fuel consumption, a decrease in engine power, and some electrical appliances stop working altogether and will require replacement in the future. This is especially noticeable in the dark, when many power supply devices are used.

You can deal with this problem easily and quickly by charging it properly. However, sometimes this doesn't help. Look under the hood - the battery terminals may be loose or oxidized. If in a parking lot the current still maintains a constant voltage, then during driving, due to vibration, the terminals may move away, opening the circuit. To fix the problem, you need to thoroughly lubricate the fasteners and tighten the bolts; sometimes only replacing the old terminals with new ones will help.

Reasons for failure of the relay regulator

The reasons for the failure of the voltage regulator may be:

• short circuit in the circuit, including interturn short circuit of the excitation winding;
• failure of the rectifier bridge (diode breakdown);
• reverse polarity or incorrect connection to the battery terminals;
• penetration of moisture into the housing of the regulator and/or generator (for example, when washing a car or driving in heavy rain);
• mechanical damage to the unit;
• natural wear and tear of the unit, including brushes;
• poor quality of the device being directly tested.

There are a number of simple methods for checking the regulator, regardless of whether the unit is removable or not.

The simplest way to check the generator voltage regulator

The simplest method of checking the regulator is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter. However, it is worth immediately making a reservation that the algorithm given below does not give a 100% probability of failure of the regulator. Perhaps the generator itself has failed. But the advantage of this method is that it is simple and there is no need to dismantle the device from the car. So, the algorithm for checking the generator voltage regulator with a multimeter is as follows:

• Set the tester to DC voltage measurement mode at a limit of about 20 V (depending on the specific model, the main thing is that it displays values ​​up to 20 V as accurately as possible).
• Start the engine.
• Measure the voltage at the battery terminals in idle mode (1000. 1500 rpm). If the regulator and generator are working properly, the value should be within 13.2. 14 V.
• Increase the speed to 2000. 2500 rpm. In the normal state of the electrical circuit, the corresponding voltage will increase to 13.6. 14.2 V.
• When the speed increases to 3500 rpm and above, the voltage should not exceed 14.5 V.

If during the test the voltage values ​​are very different from those given, then most likely the machine’s voltage regulator is faulty. Remember that the voltage should not fall below 12V and should not rise above 14.5V.

Device diagnostics

A malfunction of the charging circuit elements can be detected while driving. With the engine running, look at the instrument panel. When the voltage drops, the charging relay turns on the light. The alarm indicates a possible failure of the PP.

To check the voltage regulator, you need a voltmeter. The tester can be purchased at a store or borrowed from a familiar electrician. The mode switch is set to the limit of 20 V. The common wire (black) is connected to the ground of the passenger car, and the red probe is placed on the “+” sign of the battery.

You can check the relay regulator with the engine running and the battery fully charged. The sequence of actions to diagnose the device should be as follows:

1. Use the ignition key to start the engine.
2. Turn on the load (high beam headlights).
3. Warm up the engine for 15 minutes.
4. We set the rotation speed to 2.5 thousand using the tachometer.
5. We take tester readings at the battery terminals.

After completing all the points, an analysis is carried out. If the needle on the instrument scale is within 14.2 V, then the regulator copes with its task. In this case, the voltage should not significantly depend on the number of revolutions.

Deviation of indicators from the norm indicates a breakdown of the regulator.

Remember that the electronic relay does not allow the terminals to be removed from the battery while the engine is running. This leads to voltage surges and failure of electronic devices.

Checking the combined relay-regulator

Checking the VAZ 2110 voltage regulator

To perform the corresponding check, it is necessary to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. To do this, use a charger or power supply with an adjustable load (it is important that it be used to regulate the voltage value in the circuit), a 12 V light bulb (for example, from a turn signal or headlight, with a power of 3.4 W), a multimeter, and the regulator itself voltage (this can be from a Bosch, Valeo or other generator). It is advisable to have the wires used for switching with “crocodiles”.

Checking the voltage regulator of the generator 37.3701: 1 - battery; 2 — ground terminal of the voltage regulator; 3 - voltage regulator; 4 – terminal “Ш” of the regulator; 5 — output “B” of the regulator; 6 — control lamp; 7 — terminal “B” of the voltage regulator.

If you assemble a circuit in which the voltage is at a standard value of 12.7 V, then the light bulb will simply glow. But if you use a voltage regulator to raise its value to 14.14.5 V, then if the relay is working, the light should go out. Otherwise the regulator is faulty. That is, when the voltage reaches 14.14.5 V (depending on the model of the machine and, accordingly, the regulator) and above, the light goes out, and when it drops to the same level, it lights up again.

Checking the VAZ 2107 voltage regulator

Checking the voltage regulator on VAZ 2108/2109 cars

Until 1996, a VAZ 2107 with a 37.3701 generator was equipped with an old-style voltage regulator (17.3702). The verification procedure is given above. After 1996, a more modern generator of the G-222 brand was used (integrated regulator RN Ya112V (V1).

As you can see, the verification algorithm for all regulators is almost the same. The only difference is the cutoff values ​​when the relay is activated.

Connection diagram for the VAZ-2110 generator

On VAZ-2110, 2111 and 2112 cars, a 94.3701 generator was installed with a maximum output current of 80 Amperes and a voltage = 13.2–14.7 Volts.

Here is a breakdown of the connection diagram for the generator on the ten :

1. Battery 12V;
2. generator 94.3701;
3. mounting block;
4. egnition lock;
5. battery charge indicator lamp in the instrument cluster

Checking an Individual Regulator

Checking the voltage regulator of the G-222 generator: 1 - battery; 2 - voltage regulator; 3 - control lamp.

As a rule, separate voltage regulators were installed on old cars, including domestic VAZs. But some manufacturers continue to do this to this day. The verification process is similar. To do this, you need to have a power supply with a voltage regulator, a 12 V light bulb, a multimeter and a directly tested regulator.

To check, you need to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. The process itself is similar to the one above. In normal condition (at a voltage of 12 V), the light bulb lights up. When the voltage value increases to 14.5 V, it goes out, and when it decreases, it lights up again. If during the process the lamp lights up or goes out at other values, it means that the regulator has failed.

Checking relay type 591.3702-01

Relay test diagram type 591.3702-01

You can also still find a voltage regulator of type 591.3702-01, which was installed on rear-wheel drive VAZs (from VAZ 2101 to VAZ 2107), GAZ and Moskvich. The device is mounted separately and installed on the body. In general, the test is similar to that described above, but the differences are in the contacts used.

In particular, it has two main contacts - “67” and “15”. The first of them is a minus, and the second is a plus. Accordingly, to check it is necessary to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. The verification principle remains the same. In normal condition, at a voltage of 12 V, the light bulb lights up, and when the corresponding value increases to 14.5 V, it goes out. When the value returns to its original value, the light comes on again.

A classic regulator of this type is a device of the PP-380 brand, installed on VAZ 2101 and VAZ 2102 cars. We provide reference data regarding this regulator.

Testing a three-level relay

Regulated power supply

Some car owners install on their cars, instead of standard “chocolate bars,” three-level relays, which are technologically more advanced. Their difference is the presence of three voltage levels at which the battery power is cut off (for example, 13.7 V, 14.2 V and 14.7 V). The appropriate level can be set manually using a special regulator.

Such relays are more reliable and allow flexible adjustment of the cutoff voltage level. As for checking such a regulator, it is completely similar to the procedures described above. Just do not forget about the value that is set on the relay, and accordingly, check it with a multimeter.

Generator check

There is one method by which you can check the performance of a car generator equipped with a regulator relay 591.3702-01 with diagnostic elements. It is as follows:

• disconnect the wires that went to pins 67 and 15 of the voltage regulator;
• connect a light bulb to it (excluding the regulator from the circuit);
• Remove the wire from the positive terminal of the battery.

If, as a result of these actions, the engine does not stall, then we can say that the car’s generator is in order. Otherwise, it is faulty and needs to be checked and replaced.

Types of structures

There are 2 types of regulators: old and new. They replace each other, although they contain different fillings. The old design is equipped with a mechanical relay. VAZ cars are equipped with a voltage regulator of the PP-380 type. Devices of this series use moving contacts to switch on resistors.

This spare part has been removed from mass production. Nowadays such specimens are rare. The vibration regulator PP-380 also has a number of disadvantages. Let us point out the difficulties in operating the contact option:

• need for customization;
• step adjustment;
• periodic cleaning of the contact group;
• low reliability;
• creates radio interference;
• short service life.

Recommendations for increasing the service life of the regulator

In order to increase the service life of the voltage regulator, it is necessary to adhere to several simple rules aimed at implementing preventive measures. Among them:

• do not allow excessive contamination of the generator, periodically inspect its condition, and, if necessary, dismantle and clean the unit;
• check the tension of the alternator belt, tighten it if necessary (either yourself or in a car service);
• monitor the condition of the generator windings, in particular, do not allow them to darken;
• check the contact on the control wire of the relay-regulator, both its quality and the presence of oxidation on it;
• Perform periodic voltage checks on the vehicle battery with the engine running.

Methods for self-checking performance

There are several methods for checking the functional state of the regulator. The easiest way is to contact a car service, but you can check the functionality of the device yourself. The simplest way, which is carried out without removing the relay, is to test the on-board current using a multimeter.

Checking with a multimeter without dismantling

The essence of the method is to measure the voltage that goes to the battery to recharge it. During testing, you will need an assistant to use the accelerator pedal to regulate engine speed. The check is carried out as follows.

1. Start the engine and warm it up for about 5 minutes.
2. With the engine running, open the hood and connect the multimeter contacts to the battery terminals, observing the polarity. Set the tester switch to the 20 volt position.
3. The charging voltage coming from the generator is assessed with the low beams on (other current consumers are turned off) and the crankshaft speed within 1.5–2.5 thousand rpm. If the potential difference exceeds 14.8 V, the regulator is faulty and must definitely be replaced. When the incoming current is less than 13.5 V, in addition to the relay, you can suspect a fault in the wiring or the generator itself.

To fully test the relay, it must be removed.

Testing the removed regulator (with circuit)

The electronic relay is usually located on the surface of the generator and is covered with a plastic cover. Removal is done using a screwdriver, the shape of the tip of which depends on the car model (cross-shaped, hexagon). There is a high probability that the regulator forms a block with the generator brushes. For testing, in addition to a multimeter, you will need a 12 V test lamp (no more than 3 W) and an adjustable current source.

We connect the contacts of the wires from the current source:

• “minus” to the regulator mass;
• "plus" to the terminal marked "B".

The test lamp wires are connected to graphite brushes (polarity does not matter).

First, a voltage in the range of 13–13.5 volts is applied to the relay. With such a potential difference, the light bulb should light. If this is not the case, then there is an open circuit in the regulator, which can be anywhere: in any case, the device is faulty.

When the light is on, you need to gradually increase the incoming voltage. If the relay is working properly, within 14.2–14.5 V the light goes out. When the control lamp lights up with a further increase in the potential difference, the relay is faulty (a breakdown has occurred) and must be replaced. An unsatisfactory test result is also when the lamp goes out at a voltage of less than 4 volts. This current will not be enough to provide power to electrical appliances and at the same time efficiently charge the battery.

Removing and installing the voltage regulator

Replacing the external voltage regulator VAZ 2101-2106

1) Using the “8” socket, unscrew the two nuts and remove the regulator.

2) Disconnect the two wires.

3) Attach the new regulator to the mudguard and connect the wires: orange to terminal “15”, and gray to terminal “67”.

Voltage regulator relay connection diagram

ATTENTION! Before starting the engine, make sure that the contact between the voltage regulator housing and the vehicle ground is reliable, and that the wires to terminals “15” and “67” are connected correctly.

Checking and replacing the voltage regulator relay VAZ 2107

You can also check the relay regulator in a garage, but this will require several tools. Here they are:

• household multimeter (the accuracy level of the device must be at least 1, and the scale must be up to 35 volts);
• open-end wrench 10;
• flat screwdriver.

A simple option for checking the regulator

First of all, the relay regulator must be removed from the car. This is not difficult to do; it is secured with just two bolts. In addition, during the test you will have to actively use the battery, so it must be fully charged.

1. The car engine starts, the headlights turn on, after which the engine idles for 15 minutes (the crankshaft rotation speed should not exceed 2 thousand revolutions per minute);
2. The hood of the car is opened, and the voltage between the battery terminals is measured using a multimeter. It should not exceed 14 volts, and should not be lower than 12 volts.

A difficult option for checking the regulator

This option is used in cases where the failure of the regulator cannot be determined in a simple way when checking (for example, in situations where the voltage between the battery terminals is not 12 volts or higher, but 11.7 - 11.9 volts). In this case, the regulator will have to be removed and “ringed” it using a multimeter and a regular 12-volt light bulb.

1. The VAZ 2106 regulator has two outputs, which are designated “B” and “C”. These contacts are supplied with power from the battery. There are two more contacts that go to the generator brushes. The lamp is connected to these contacts as shown in the figure below.

The sequence for replacing a failed relay regulator

Before starting work, you need to decide what type of regulator is installed on the VAZ 2106: the old external one, or the new internal one. If we are talking about an outdated external regulator, then removing it will not be difficult, since it is attached to the arch of the left front wheel.

If the VAZ 2106 has an internal regulator installed (which is most likely), then before removing it you will have to remove the air filter from the car, since it interferes with access to the generator.

1. On the external relay, use an open-end wrench to unscrew the two bolts holding the device on the left wheel arch.
2. After this, all wires are disconnected manually, the regulator is removed from the engine compartment and replaced with a new one.

There are a couple of important points that cannot be left out. First of all, there is a problem with external regulators for the VAZ 2106. These are very old parts that have been discontinued a long time ago. As a result, they are almost impossible to find on sale. Sometimes a car owner has no choice but to buy an external regulator in person, using an ad on the Internet. Of course, the car owner can only guess about the quality and actual service life of such a part. The second point concerns the removal of internal regulators from the generator housing. For some unknown reason, the wires connected to the regulator on the generator side are very fragile. Most often they break “at the root,” that is, right at the contact block. Fixing this problem is not so easy: you have to cut the block with a knife, resolder the broken wires, isolate the solder points, and then glue the plastic block with universal glue. This is very painstaking work

Therefore, when removing the internal regulator from the VAZ 2106 generator, extreme caution should be exercised, especially if repairs have to be carried out in severe frost

So, in order to check and change a burnt-out voltage regulator, the car owner does not need special skills. All he needs is the ability to use a wrench and a screwdriver. And basic understanding of how a multimeter works. If all this is present, then even a novice car enthusiast will not have any problems replacing the regulator. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations outlined above.

Source

Cost and interchangeability

Built-in relay voltage regulator 71.3702 for generator G-222

The average price for a voltage regulator, both built into the brushes and remote, is about 100 rubles.

Models of generators G-221 and G-222 are interchangeable, that is, you can easily install a new generator from the “seven” for a “penny”, but you should pay attention to the correct charge of the battery. To do this, it is necessary to modify the electrical wiring according to the standard connection diagram.

Depending on the situation, either install an external voltage regulator relay, or, conversely, remove the external one and leave one built into the generator.

The normal voltage in the car's on-board network is considered to be in the range of 13.5-14.5 Volts.

The generator voltage regulator relay is an integral part of the electrical system of any car. It is used to maintain voltage within a certain range of values. In this article you will learn about what designs of regulators currently exist, including mechanisms that have not been used for a long time.

How to check the generator yourself

How to check a VAZ generator using the example of model 2109. Generator type 94.3701 alternating current, three-phase, with a built-in rectifier unit and an electronic voltage regulator, right-hand rotation.

Generator connection diagram . The voltage to excite the generator when the ignition is turned on is supplied to terminal “D+” of the regulator (terminal “D” of the generator) through indicator lamp 4 located in the instrument cluster. After starting the engine, the excitation winding is powered by three additional diodes installed on the generator rectifier block. The operation of the generator is controlled by a warning lamp in the instrument cluster. When the ignition is turned on, the lamp should be on, and after starting the engine, it should go out if the generator is working. If the lamp is brightly lit or glows half-lit, it indicates a malfunction.

The “minus” of the battery should always be connected to ground, and the “plus” should always be connected to the “B+” terminal of the generator. Failure to turn the battery back on will immediately cause increased current through the generator valves and damage them.

It is not allowed to operate the generator with the battery disconnected. This will cause short-term overvoltages to occur at the “B+” terminal of the generator, which can damage the generator voltage regulator and electronic devices in the vehicle’s on-board network.

It is prohibited to check the functionality of the generator “for spark” even by briefly connecting the “B+” terminal of the generator to ground. In this case, significant current flows through the valves and they are damaged.

Basic automatic control processes

It doesn't matter what type of generator set is used in the car. In any case, it has a regulator in its design. The automatic voltage regulation system allows you to maintain a certain parameter value, regardless of the frequency at which the generator rotor rotates. The figure shows the generator voltage regulator relay, its diagram and appearance.

By analyzing the physics by which a generator set operates, it can be concluded that the output voltage increases as the rotor speed becomes higher. It can also be concluded that voltage regulation is carried out by reducing the current supplied to the rotor winding as the rotation speed increases.

Voltage regulator VAZ 2107 - purpose and first signs of malfunction

The voltage regulator is designed to automatically maintain the current strength so that the voltage generated by the generator is within specified limits, regardless of the rotation speed of the generator shaft (from the engine speed) and the current consumption of the car's electrical network. In VAZ 2107 cars, as a rule, an electronic voltage regulator is installed on the generator.

It is extremely rare that some models may come across an old-style device - a relay regulator. They were installed on generators 37.3701, produced before 1996, and on G-222. First, the device is tested on a running car. To do this, you need a voltmeter with the ability to measure DC voltage. The device must be equipped with a scale for values ​​up to 15–30 V and have an accuracy class of at least 1.0. After starting the VAZ 2107 engine, it is allowed to run with the headlights on for 15 minutes at medium speed.

Then the voltage at the generator output is measured. To do this, the positive probe of the device touches terminal “30” on the generator, and the negative probe touches the ground (generator or car - it doesn’t matter, it’s the same thing). The voltmeter should show a voltage in the range of 13.6–14.6 V. If the measurement result is higher or lower than specified, and the vehicle is experiencing systematic overcharging or undercharging of the battery, then most likely the regulator is faulty and needs to be replaced.

What is a generator

Any car generator consists of several parts:

1. A rotor with an excitation winding, around which an electromagnetic field is created during operation.

2. A stator with three windings connected in a star configuration (alternating voltage is removed from them in the range from 12 to 30 Volts).

3. In addition, the design contains a three-phase rectifier consisting of six semiconductor diodes. It is worth noting that the VAZ 2107 generator voltage relay-regulator (injector or carburetor in the injection system) is the same.

But the generator will not be able to operate without a voltage regulation device. The reason for this is the voltage change over a very wide range. Therefore, it is necessary to use an automatic control system. It consists of a comparison device, control, executive, master and special sensor. The main element is the regulatory body. It can be either electrical or mechanical.

Connection diagram for the VAZ-2108 generator

The VAZ-2108 generator has a rather massive stator winding, since it uses a large cross-section wire. It is with its help that electricity is generated. The wire is wound evenly over the entire inner surface of the stator into recesses specially provided for this purpose in the magnetic core. It’s worth talking about the latter separately. The middle part, the generator stator, consists of a series of thin metal plates pressed tightly together. They are often boiled on the outside to prevent separation.

Generator operation

When the rotor begins to rotate, some voltage appears at the generator output. And it is supplied to the excitation winding through a control element. It is also worth noting that the generator set output is connected directly to the battery. Therefore, voltage is constantly present on the excitation winding. When the rotor speed increases, the voltage at the generator set output begins to change. A voltage regulator relay from a Valeo generator or any other manufacturer is connected to the generator output.

In this case, the sensor detects the change, sends a signal to a comparing device, which analyzes it, comparing it with a given parameter. Next, the signal goes to the control device, from which it is supplied to the actuator. The regulatory body is able to reduce the value of the current that flows to the rotor winding. As a result, the voltage at the generator set output is reduced. In a similar way, the mentioned parameter is increased in the event of a decrease in rotor speed.

Connection diagram for the VAZ-2109 generator

1. Alternator. The 37.3701 or 94.3701 series can be installed.
2. Negative diode.
3. Additional diode.
4. Positive diode.
5. Alternator warning lamp, also known as battery discharge lamp.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Voltmeter.
8. Relay and fuse box located in the engine compartment in the compartment between the engine and the vehicle interior.
9. Additional resistors built into the fuse mounting block.
10. Ignition relay.
11. Egnition lock.
12. Accumulator battery.
13. Capacitor.
14. Rotor winding.
15. The voltage relay is located in the engine compartment.

Two-level regulators

A two-level automatic control system consists of a generator, a rectifier element, and a battery. It is based on an electric magnet, its winding is connected to the sensor. The driving devices in these types of mechanisms are very simple. These are ordinary springs. A small lever is used as a comparison device. It is mobile and makes switching. The actuator is the contact group. The control element is a constant resistance. Such a generator voltage regulator relay, the diagram of which is given in the article, is very often used in technology, although it is morally outdated.

Connection diagram for the VAZ-2107 generator

1 - battery; 2 - negative diode; 3 - additional diode; 4 - generator; 5 - positive diode; 6 - stator winding; 7 - voltage regulator; 8 — rotor winding; 9 — capacitor for suppressing radio interference; 10 — mounting block; 11 — battery charge indicator lamp in the instrument cluster; 12 - voltmeter; 13 — ignition relay; 14 - ignition switch.

Operation of a two-level regulator

When the generator operates, a voltage appears at the output, which is supplied to the winding of the electromagnetic relay. In this case, a magnetic field arises, with its help the lever arm is attracted. The latter is acted upon by a spring, which is used as a comparing device. If the voltage becomes higher than expected, the contacts of the electromagnetic relay open. In this case, a constant resistance is included in the circuit. Less current is supplied to the field winding. The voltage regulator relay for the VAZ 21099 generator and other domestic and imported cars operates on a similar principle. If the voltage at the output decreases, then the contacts are closed, and the current strength changes upward.

Electronic regulator

Two-level mechanical voltage regulators have a big drawback - excessive wear of the elements. For this reason, instead of an electromagnetic relay, semiconductor elements operating in key mode began to be used. The operating principle is similar, only the mechanical elements are replaced by electronic ones. The sensing element is made on a voltage divider, which consists of constant resistors. A zener diode is used as a driving device.

The modern relay-voltage regulator of the VAZ 21099 generator is a more advanced device, reliable and durable. The executive part of the control device operates on transistors. As the voltage at the generator output changes, the electronic switch closes or opens the circuit, and additional resistance is connected if necessary. It is worth noting that two-level regulators are imperfect devices. Instead, it is better to use more modern developments.

Repair of voltage regulator relay on VAZ 2107

Usually the fact that the VAZ 2107 has a voltage regulator is remembered when a problem arises with charging the battery. To be completely precise in the definitions, the voltage relay comes to mind immediately as soon as it turns out that, despite the presence of charging, the battery is almost completely discharged. Let's take a closer look at why a voltage regulator is needed in a VAZ 2107 car. Without going into the intricacies of electronics, the voltage regulator is designed to regulate the voltage at the generator output depending on the engine operating mode. It is quite natural that as the speed changes, the voltage level also changes. And if it drops to 12 volts or lower, the battery stops charging.

Therefore, if you suspect a malfunction in the VAZ 2107 charging system, you must first check the voltage at the battery terminals. This can be done using a regular voltmeter or multimeter (tester). In normal mode, the voltage should be approximately 13-14 volts

If it drops below 13, you should pay attention to the relay; it may need to be replaced

Depending on the type of generator used in the car, the regulator can be internal three-level and external. The internal one is built into the generator and is usually used in VAZ 2105 and 2107 cars, while the external one is used in earlier classic models and is located in the engine compartment on the left arch.

Depending on the type of regulator, replacing it has its own characteristics. Replacing the external regulator is no problem. Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the two fastening nuts and disconnect the wires from terminals 15 and 67. The new relay is installed in the reverse order. After checking that the wires are connected correctly to the terminals of the regulator, and that its body is in reliable contact with ground, you can start the engine and measure the voltage again to ensure that the fault has been eliminated.

The internal three-level one is somewhat more difficult to change due to limited access to the generator. But, despite this, the task is quite doable even without removing it. Replacing the regulator, as in the case of an external one, comes down to disconnecting the wires and unscrewing two mounting screws using a Phillips screwdriver. After this, the relay is removed from the generator housing. Installing a new regulator occurs in the reverse order. After assembly, the voltage level is checked.

It should be noted that the regulator is not always replaced due to its failure. Recently, more and more often, car enthusiasts have resorted to replacing the generator along with the relay from an old model to a new one. This kind of tuning becomes possible thanks to the complete interchangeability of both models. The reason that prompts car owners to take such a step is the high efficiency that distinguishes the three-level regulator from the standard one.

New type relays provide the required voltage level in automatic mode. Plus, it has a wider adjustment range than the standard one, so the battery receives an optimal charge. Under such conditions, the service life of the battery is significantly increased. In the schematic diagram of the electrical circuits of the VAZ 2107 shown below, the relay is indicated by the number 7.

Three-level regulation system

The quality of regulation of such structures is much higher than that of those previously discussed. Previously, mechanical designs were used, but today non-contact devices are more common. All elements used in this system are the same as those discussed above. But the operating principle is slightly different. First, voltage is applied through a divider to a special circuit in which information is processed. It is possible to install such a generator voltage regulator relay (Ford Sierra can also be equipped with similar equipment) on any car if you know the device and connection diagram.

Here the actual value is compared with the minimum and maximum. If the voltage deviates from the value that is set, then a certain signal appears. It is called a mismatch signal. It is used to regulate the current flowing to the excitation winding. The difference from a two-level system is that there are several additional resistances.

GU or generator

The generator in any automotive electrical circuit performs the dominant functions. The normal functioning and operation of the machine depends on it. Reliable PG is installed in all foreign cars and models of the domestic automobile industry.

For example, a GU is placed on the “six”, the charge of which satisfies the need for electricity of any standard component. If you do not overload the generating device of the “six”, then the car is capable of driving many, many more kilometers

However, it is important to carry out preventive procedures in a timely manner - monitor the belt tension and the condition of the brushes

The GU is connected according to the classical scheme. Using the VAZ 2106 generator as an example, let’s consider its functioning. This GU is marked as G-221. It is an AC synchronous electric machine with ELMG excitation. A VB (rectifier) ​​with 6 diodes is built inside the GU.

A simple and understandable scheme that does not require any subtleties or specific knowledge. On the “six” the PG is located on the engine on the right. It is attached to the tension bar with a nut and to the bracket with its claws.

As you can see, the diagram shows an external regulator. It is marked with the number 13. The generator is indicated with the number 2, the fuse box is indicated with the number 9.

Separately, I would like to consider the relay, which plays an important role in the “six” generator circuit. First of all, it serves to provide information to the driver about the charging status. As is known, it is created by a generating device.

The relay is made on the same principle as all devices that function according to the same properties. The connection is made to terminal 30 of the generator. A separate wire goes through the fuses to the 3Z (lock).

The action of the relay boils down to the following: as soon as the voltage of the BS decreases (falls below the 12-volt value), the relay contacts open, the indicator is activated, giving a sign to the driver.

To better understand the connection diagram, it is recommended that you also familiarize yourself with the principles of battery charging:

• as soon as the key is turned into the 3Z, an electric pulse is supplied to the relay regulator through the fuse (pin 15);
• in the regulator the voltage is transformed and goes further to the positive brush of the GU;
• then, through the brush, the voltage goes to the excitation winding of the GU;
• then - to the negative brush, through which it is brought to ground.

After the relay is activated or after the normal voltage value has been reached in the BS, the GU begins to generate current with the required value. The indicator lamp goes out, and the circuit starts working in factory mode. But when the total voltage drops, the current is not enough, and the contacts open, which leads to the discharge lamp burning.

The constant switching on of the charge indicator lamp indicates that the gene is not working properly. This happens for various reasons. First, you should check the fuses: if they are active, then both relays deserve attention: the regulator and the charger. If they are also in order, then faults must be looked for in the generating device itself.

Before proceeding with replacing the relay, it is recommended to carefully check the functioning of the regulator. The car starts, the speed is kept within the range of 2500-3000 rpm. After this, you need to turn off all current consumers, except the ignition. Then you need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals.

Charging may disappear in the following cases:

1. If the generator brushes are worn out.
2. In case of malfunction of the generating device.
3. If the charging relay is faulty.
4. If the rectifier unit (diode bridge) fails.

Thus, installing an external relay-regulator instead of a built-in one will bring a lot of benefits. The fact is that modern charging systems have much more power. Thus, modern memory systems are much more complex than old-style systems.

• Absolutely legal (Article 12.2);
• Hides from photo and video recording;
• Suitable for all cars;
• Works through the cigarette lighter connector;
• Does not cause interference to radios and cell phones.

The VAZ 2106 voltage regulator relay ensures the normal functioning of important vehicle mechanisms and devices. In particular, the adequate operation of the car’s ignition system and its generator, as well as the condition of the battery, depend on it.

Modern voltage regulation systems

If the voltage regulator relay for the generator of a Chinese scooter is two-level, then more advanced devices are used on expensive cars. Multilevel control systems can contain 3, 4, 5 or more additional resistances. There are also tracking automatic control systems. In some designs, you can refuse to use additional resistances.

Instead, the frequency of operation of the electronic key increases. It is simply impossible to use circuits with electromagnetic relays in servo control systems. One of the latest developments is a multi-level control system that uses frequency modulation. In such designs, additional resistances are required, which are used to control logic elements.

How to remove the relay regulator

Removing the generator voltage regulator relay ("Lanos" or domestic "nine" - it doesn't matter) is quite simple. It is worth noting that when replacing the voltage regulator, you only need one tool - a flat-head or Phillips screwdriver. There is no need to remove the generator or the belt and its drive. Most of the devices are located on the back cover of the generator, and are combined into a single unit with a brush mechanism. The most common breakdowns occur in several cases.

Firstly, when completely erasing the graphite brushes. Secondly, in case of breakdown of a semiconductor element. How to check the regulator will be discussed below. When removing, you will need to disconnect the battery. Disconnect the wire that connects the voltage regulator to the generator output. By unscrewing both mounting bolts, you can pull out the device body. But the voltage regulator relay of the VAZ 2101 generator has an outdated design - it is mounted in the engine compartment, separately from the brush assembly.

Connection diagram for the VAZ-2101 generator

Structurally, generator 2101 consists of the following main elements:

• The rotor is a moving part that rotates from the engine crankshaft. Has an excitation winding.
• The stator is the stationary part of the generator and also has a winding.
• Front and rear covers , inside of which bearings are installed. They have eyelets for attaching to the internal combustion engine. The back cover contains a capacitor necessary to cut off the alternating current component.
• Semiconductor bridge - called a “horseshoe” for its similarity. Three pairs of semiconductor power diodes are mounted on a horseshoe-shaped base.
• A pulley on which the VAZ-2101 generator belt is placed. The belt is V-shaped (on modern cars a multi-ribbed belt is used).
• The voltage regulator is installed in the engine compartment, away from the generator. But still it must be considered part of the structure.
• The brushes are mounted inside the generator and transmit the supply voltage to the field winding (on the rotor).

Device check

The relay-regulator of the voltage of the VAZ 2106 generator, “kopecks”, and foreign cars is checked equally. As soon as you remove it, look at the brushes - they should be more than 5 millimeters long. If this parameter is different, the device must be replaced. To carry out diagnostics, you will need a constant voltage source. It would be desirable to be able to change the output characteristic. You can use a battery and a couple of AA batteries as a power source. You also need a lamp, it must run on 12 Volts. You can use a voltmeter instead. Connect the plus from the power supply to the voltage regulator connector.

Accordingly, connect the negative contact to the common plate of the device. Connect a light bulb or voltmeter to the brushes. In this state, voltage should be present between the brushes if 12-13 Volts are supplied to the input. But if you supply more than 15 Volts to the input, there should be no voltage between the brushes. This is a sign that the device is working properly. And it doesn’t matter at all whether the voltage regulator relay of the VAZ 2107 generator or another car is diagnosed. If the control lamp lights up at any voltage value or does not light up at all, it means that there is a malfunction of the unit.

Purpose of the device

The generator voltage depends on the following factors:

1. Rotor speeds.
2. Current load.
3. Magnetic flux values.

A sufficient condition for the generation of electrical energy is the rotation of the rotor of the VAZ 2106 generator in a magnetic field. Magnetic flux crosses the stator windings. AC voltage is generated. The generator diodes rectify the current.

The role of the electromagnet is performed by the excitation winding. It is laid in the grooves of the rotating part. The excitation voltage is supplied to it through the brush assembly. By changing the strength of the current passing through the winding, generation is controlled.

The VAZ 2106 (RR) voltage regulator controls the rotor winding current. The block changes the resistance of the excitation circuit depending on the network voltage level. The generator responds as expected. This way the device returns the generator voltage to normal.

Increased demands are placed on the operation of the control unit. They are determined by working conditions and technical characteristics of consumers. All equipment that is connected to the passenger vehicle network is designed for 12 volts (V). The VAZ voltage regulator must maintain a range from 13.2 to 14.4 V. This gap should not depend on the number of rotor revolutions and ampere load.

The voltage regulator relay should turn on automatically after starting the engine. In addition to its main purpose, the device performs additional functions:

• protects the generator from overloads;
• recharges the battery;
• protects devices from overvoltage.

Proper operation of the PP will protect electrical equipment from overvoltage. Failure to charge will shorten the battery life. Low mains voltage will make it difficult to start a cold engine.

conclusions

In the electrical system of a car, the voltage regulator relay of the Bosch generator (as, indeed, of any other company) plays a very important role. Monitor its condition as often as possible and check for damage and defects. Cases of failure of such a device are not uncommon. In this case, in the best case, the battery will be discharged. And in the worst case, the supply voltage in the on-board network may increase. This will lead to the failure of most electricity consumers. In addition, the generator itself may fail. And its repair will cost a tidy sum, and considering that the battery will fail very quickly, the costs will be astronomical. It is also worth noting that the Bosch generator voltage regulator relay is one of the leaders in sales. It has high reliability and durability, and its characteristics are as stable as possible.

Replacement and removal of the electric generator

The generator on a VAZ car is removed either for complete replacement in case of failure or to carry out repair work to replace faulty parts. To perform dismantling, prepare a standard set of tools; it is advisable to drive the car into the inspection hole.

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the protective rubber cap from terminal “30” and unscrew the nut and remove it from the wire stud.
3. Disconnect the block with wires from the generator connector.
4. We loosen the tightening of the generator to the adjusting bar, then lift it all the way up to the cylinder block and remove the belt from the pulleys.
5. Completely unscrew the bolt securing the adjusting bar to the cylinder block, then from the bottom of the car unscrew the 2 bolts securing the lower bracket to the block and remove the generator, pulling it out of the engine compartment.