We solve a difficult problem, how to unscrew the hub nut of a VAZ 2110

Before unscrewing the hub nut, it is advisable to read the instructions for routine maintenance of your car. It indicates the method of fixation, the direction of the thread and other nuances.

Changing the geometry of the nut (one side is oval). Anyone who has repeatedly unscrewed such a nut has seen that the threads gradually become unusable;
Punching after tightening. This solution is not suitable for replaceable units, since this will damage the screw part. However, many car manufacturers fix the hub nut in this way so that it does not unscrew while driving;
Hairpin. The most reliable method of fixation. The nut does not unscrew on its own, and the thread does not deteriorate. For some reason, not all car designers use this simple method;
The retainer is a “shoulder-groove”. A common method, more reliable than core punching, but detrimental to carvings. Longitudinal grooves (one or two) are made on the threaded connection of the axle shaft. The CV joint nut has the same number of collars, which bend into grooves after tightening. It is almost impossible to unscrew the nut without damaging the thread;
A variety of fixing paints and adhesives. Not used on hub connections.

Since the connection is in unfavorable conditions (especially if the boot cap is lost), the nut does not unscrew the first time. An inexperienced driver panics, starts turning the nut in the wrong direction, uses attachments on the wrench in the form of a meter-long pipe, and as a result breaks the thread. The consequences are a forced replacement of a still-living CV joint.

How to unscrew the hub nut without ruining the threaded connection

First of all, stock up on quality tools. An ordinary wrench is not suitable for plumbing work, although many car owners stubbornly use them to repair CV joints (the size is the same, but the cost of the tool is lower). An open-end wrench can only be used to unscrew an already “undermined” nut, this is really more convenient.

For the hub (CV joint), only a union head is used. The end cap can be cast or stamped (the second option is cheaper), and exactly match the size of the nut. If you “lick” the edges using a tool with backlash, you will be working with an angle grinder, and you will have to say goodbye to the CV joint.

Thoroughly clean the surface from corrosion and dirt. If a spline-shoulder pair is used, you need to pick out everything that is in the holes;
Treat the joint with a penetrating compound for soured threads. For example, WD-40 liquid, or regular kerosene. You may need to "soak" the thread for several hours;
Remove all fixing devices;
Place the socket on the nut and try to turn it using the lever. At this stage, it is better not to use handles with ratchets, as the mechanism may be damaged;
After “undermining”, the nut can be unscrewed with any wrench that is more convenient.

Throw away the old nut and stud. Clean the threaded connection from rust and traces of fixing compounds.

It is this method of fixation that most often leads to “licking” of the thread. VAZ drivers know what they are talking about. An inexperienced master, delighted at the easy movement of the nut, will ruin your grenade in 2-3 turns of the key.

For proper release, you need a special punch that exactly matches the size of the spline collar. You won’t find them during the day with a fire, so it’s wise to make a useful tool yourself. For example, from an old file. With its help, you can unscrew the nut while maintaining the threads on the axle shaft.

Possible problems for VAZ owners and not only

With long-term exposure to tools and repeated attempts to remove the nut, “force majeure” situations occur, which include:

the edges are licked off;
wear of the union head;
does not withstand the ratchet mechanism;
the thread on the shaft or locknut is knocked out;
violation of adjustment, tightening torque;
the bearing is damaged.

We buy a spare locknut and cotter pin in advance. It is also advisable to have a spare set of special keys before dismantling.

It is not recommended to unscrew

Don’t try to “discover America” again; the methods listed above will help break the locknut in 99% of cases. The following methods should not be attempted:

Cut using argon, oxygen or electric welding;
Strong blows with a hammer or sledgehammer on the end surface;
Jumping on a lever;
Impacts on the side, edges, base;
Exposure of the part to open flame (for example, pour kerosene on it and set it on fire).

A few tips for motorists

It is quite easy to understand that the front wheel hub of a VAZ 2110 is faulty. While the car is moving, you will hear grinding, humming and knocking noises every now and then.
To ensure that the wheel alignment remains normal after replacement, perform the replacement without unscrewing the alignment bolts.
The manufacturer recommends that car owners change the components of the front wheel hub at 55,000 km.

As you have already seen, DIY repairs are easy. Such repairs may have to be done every year, because the roads in the country leave much to be desired. But self-service will cost several times less than if you turn to a service station for the service. If you prepare in advance and do all the work sequentially, taking into account each step, the replacement will not take much time. You do not risk anything, the cost of the part is not that high. But such a simple job involves many nuances that are important to consider.

Part replacement

At the first stage, the car is placed on the inspection hole, 1st gear is engaged and stops or simple bricks are placed under the wheels.

In accordance with the instructions, which indicate how to replace the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2110, work begins:

After removing the cover from the wheel, use a wrench to unscrew the wheel nuts, which then need to be removed. To unscrew the bearing nut from the VAZ 2110 hub, use a 30mm wrench. First, use a chisel to straighten the collar on the nut. To unscrew the nut, you will need an assistant to press the brake pedal.
Using a screwdriver, the caliper is disassembled.
The caliper is then retracted from the steering knuckle. To prevent it from hanging on the brake hose, you need to bandage it in time.
The brake discs are unscrewed from the hub.

Replacing the VAZ 2110 wheel bearing is carried out in 3 ways.

First replacement method

To replace the wheel bearing, proceed as follows:

The process of removing the hub element is carried out with a puller. Its legs are inserted into special grooves made in the hub, and the retaining ring is removed. It doesn't always work out right away. Sometimes a screwdriver is used to disconnect it.
Once the part is removed, it must be replaced with a new element. This is also done using a puller. Working with such a device is much better. This takes less time. However, with such a device you need to have some working skill.
All reverse steps are performed in the same order.

In this case, there is no need to disassemble the steering knuckle. During operation, the camber does not suffer and does not need to be adjusted after the procedure is completed.

The disadvantage of this option is the inconvenience of operation, since the removal and pressing of the new product is carried out directly on the machine.

Second replacement method

Replacing a VAZ 2110 wheel bearing with your own hands without a puller consists of the following steps:

In this case, after disassembling the steering knuckle, the hub is removed and sent to the workbench.
Here the old bearing is replaced with a new one.
Installation is performed in reverse order.

In the process of unscrewing the steering knuckle, it is necessary to correct the marks. There are 2 of them in total:

the first one on the rack shows the position of the adjusting bolt;
the second indicates the previous position of the fist.

Labels will be required during assembly. Only after this are the hinge bolts and the lower ball joint removed. After removing the bearing from the hub and disassembling the retaining ring, it is removed using a vice.

This method is used when planning repairs to the entire frame. After its completion, it is necessary to adjust the wheel alignment.

Third replacement method

Replacing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2110 in this way is one of the most difficult operations.

It consists of the following steps:

You must shoot the entire rack.
For further work on replacing the wheel bearing, a special vice is prepared in advance.
In this vise, it is necessary to replace the failed bearing.

The difficulty of the job lies not only in removing the rack. The steering tip is also pulled out and the nuts securing the upper strut to the body frame are removed.

To replace the wheel bearing on a wheel, you do not need to go to a service station. If the car is used frequently. And the traffic is on bad roads, so such work is carried out frequently. In order to save money, it is better to carry out the replacement yourself, especially since the part is inexpensive, and the instructions for carrying out the work are carefully developed.

Today I had to replace the front wheel bearing, so I went to a very good friend’s house to make it more convenient, but now I can’t go to the garage, everything is melting. Before jacking up the car, we accelerated it and very easily tore off the hub bolt; it was not tightened well. After removing the wheel, unscrew the nut until it stops

Remove the brake caliper by unscrewing two bolts 17

I immediately looked at the pads: so far it’s fine, without unscrewing the brake hose we remove the caliper from the side

Then they started removing the brake disc, and here it is - the hero of the occasion

REPAIR RECOMMENDATIONS

When disassembling in the field, drivers often encounter problems.

For example, VAZ 2108 rear wheel bearings from SKF, made in Sweden, are popular among motorists. However, sometimes they may resist removal. An original device made from a towing strap and a jack can help you with this procedure outside of the service center.

In addition, during repairs, it is also important to pay attention to the wear of the drum brake pads and conduct a thorough diagnosis of the suspension. Sometimes it happens that beating or knocking occurs due to “tired” silent blocks.
When tightening the wheel fastenings, the torque wrench should be set to 186-225 nm or 19-23 kgf.

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Remove the nut from the car: force method

Lever made of pipe (length of at least one and a half meters).
Powerful socket wrench (450 mm).
Head of the appropriate size.

Place the head of the wrench on the hub nut, insert the wrench and place the pipe on the handle. Gradually increasing the applied effort, we unscrew the part.

As experienced car enthusiasts say, few hub nuts can resist for a long time if you use a Zilov cylinder!

How to unscrew a broken bolt

What to do, what to use and how to unscrew it if a pin or bolt is torn off. Video tips on how to independently unscrew a broken bolt/stud in an engine or manifold. A reliable way to unscrew if the head of a bolt has been torn off Read more

What to do if the nuts do not unscrew?

Have you removed the clamps, “soaked off” the rust, bought a wrench with a 1 meter lever, but it still doesn’t work? There are proven ways to unscrew a nut without a grinder.

Reverse rotation. Sometimes it is enough to first move the nut in the direction of tightening, and the process will begin;
Tap the nut. Use a small hammer (preferably brass or copper) to tap the edges;
Heat. A gas torch or blowtorch is an almost 100% guarantee of success due to the expansion of the metal. In an electrified garage you can use a hair dryer. Heat for at least 5 minutes.

Don’t panic, hit the key with a sledgehammer, or cut the hub with a grinder. Rust on the threads is not welding. The connection is still removable, it just requires a little patience.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them

How to remove a hub nut from a thread - radical methods for VAZ owners

Sometimes power options are not enough, this is especially observed on cars of the VAZ family, where bearings are often adjusted. In this case, auto mechanics advise switching to radically aggressive dismantling methods:

Break the fasteners with a chisel, hammer or nut splitter/nut splitter;
A series of holes are drilled along the groove for locking;
Heat the connection with a gas burner;
Solve the issue by welding (welding a similar nut or a larger one).

It is important to know:

Before starting work, prepare new spare parts. Further operation of the removed part is impossible. If dismantling is carried out using the heating method, you will need to check the serviceability of the wheel bearings.

Causes of rear wheel bearing failure

The bearing failed, having completely exhausted its service life (after which so-called metal fatigue occurred).
The bearing collapsed due to sand and dirt entering it, which began to act as an abrasive material, which led to partial or complete abrasion of the bearing parts.
One of the bearing rings cracked due to a strong impact (which occurs when the wheel hits a deep pothole at high speed).
The nut on the hub is loosely tightened. This leads to the occurrence of play, which gradually destroys the bearing elements.

Design features of the hub nut

The hub nut is located in a unit whose operation occurs under conditions of high temperatures, mechanical and external influences. Therefore, alloy steel with anti-corrosion coating is used for manufacturing.

The part, in addition to the standard nut elements, has grooves. After reaching the required torque, a locking pin is inserted into them or mechanically fixed with a chisel. The outside of the nut is surrounded by 6 standard edges. We gain access to the locknut after removing the protective cap.

Signs of a bad wheel bearing

When driving, one of the rear wheels emits a characteristic hum, which turns into a howl as speed increases.

A noticeable play appears on the rear wheel (which can be easily detected by jacking up the wheel and moving it with your hands away from you and towards you).

A jacked rear wheel, spun by hand, rotates with a characteristic hum, which can sometimes be accompanied by the clanking of balls rolling in a broken bearing (while a wheel with a working bearing rotates almost silently).

Chemical

Now we will consider methods for those who do not rely on the help of physics, but want to solve the problem with the help of chemistry. Your laboratory should have: kerosene, white spirit, acidified sulfuric acid, zinc, plasticine, hammer, water, sandpaper, wrench, chisel.

Attributes of the chemical method for unscrewing the nut

We moisten the nut and bolt with kerosene (experienced people recommend making a mixture of White Spirit and kerosene), applying a swab to them, it doesn’t matter whether it’s cotton or gauze. After some time - from an hour to a day, and with repeated attempts, you may find that the hub nut can be easily unscrewed. But even here you cannot do without force: at a minimum, you will probably have to work with sandpaper to clean the parts from rust. If even after this things don’t work, you should help with a hammer: tap it on the edges of the hub nut.

If in this case you are not successful, make a small container out of plasticine, secure the hub nut on top, pour water with sulfuric acid into it, and put zinc in the container. A chemical reaction begins that does a very good job of removing rust. Usually a day is enough for even advanced corrosion to go away from a part. Finish the job with a wrench. But this method is valid only in the case when the reason is that the nut is tightly stuck and/or rusted, and if it was simply tightened, neglecting the required tightening torque (to “be sure”), then you just need to tighten it.

Installation

The inner surface of the fist is cleaned of dirt and lubricant (solid oil) is applied to it. The puller with the new bearing is installed in place and pressed into place. To make the process easier, it is recommended to first cool it thoroughly in the freezer.

A working unit is inserted into the fist as evenly as possible, trying to avoid distortion. After installing the bearing, put the hub back on and press it in if necessary. All other stages of work are carried out in reverse order.

The hub nut must be tightened using a torque wrench (the required force is 20 N*M).

Preparing the work site and tools

Replacing the front wheel bearing on a VAZ 2110 requires preparation of the workplace. A prerequisite is the presence of an inspection hole. This place should be well lit.

In addition, the following tools are being prepared:

puller for removing the bearing;
spindle for punching the hub;
handle with head 30;
set of keys, including sizes 17 and 19.

New bearings are prepared in advance.

Sequencing

The hub nut is loosened using a 30mm socket and a wrench. After this, use a 22mm socket to slightly loosen the mounting bolts on the wheel.
Wheel chocks are installed under the front wheels, and the car is in first gear. After this, the rear wheel with the faulty bearing is jacked up and removed.
Brake drum cover visible

Symptoms of malfunction

Replacing the VAZ 2110 wheel bearing is necessary when the following symptoms appear:

The rotating elements gradually destroy the clamp. After this, their arrangement becomes disordered. This is accompanied by a loud squeak that can be clearly heard inside the car.
After a long run of the car, gaps form between the supporting parts. This manifests itself in the form of vibration. Applies to the steering column and body.
The car begins to pull to the side. The same thing happens with defective elements.

What is the thread on the VAZ 2110 hub on the rear wheel

I would like to share my experience of restoring the broken thread of the rear hub 2110. It is almost impossible to break the thread by hand.
All these breakdowns occur from “crooked” car mechanics who tighten the bolts using a pneumatic tool. According to the regulations, the tightening torques for wheel bolts are: 65.2-92.6 (6.7-9.5) Nm (kgfm). But naturally, no one wants to use a torque wrench, guided by the motto “it will do and we’ll tighten it that way.” If you still managed to break the threads in the hub, then there are several ways out of this situation: 1) Replacing the hub. The most expensive and most reliable option. As a rule, in addition to the hub, the wheel bearing is also replaced. 2) Installing studs. The hairpin costs approx. 100 rub. + a nut for each stud will cost about 60-80 rubles. As a result, we get 400 + 320 = 730 rubles. one wheel. You can try, you will have to remove the wheel and brake drum. Problems are possible if the threads on the stud itself are broken. 3) cutting a larger thread over the old one. Factory wheel bolt thread: M12x1.25. You can cut M14x1.5 without removing the wheel (provided that some of the other bolts hold the wheel). The primary choice fell on the 2nd option, but the market convinced me that if you cut a large thread, it will last the same amount of time, but if you install studs, it will cost more, and if the thread does not work, then you will have to cut off the nut. We purchased 2 taps (rough and fine cutting) for m14x1.5 from Ermak (running ahead, don’t take these because they’re fucking China) for 300 rubles. + 4 chrome bolts m14x1.5 (100 rubles each) Let's start cutting. “With my hand, without straining, I unscrewed” the torn bolt, which indicates that there were practically no threads left, not to mention the “pressing of the wheel with the bolt.” Lubricated the tap with lard

and carefully, centering the tap, slowly began to screw it into the hole. I will say that at first it goes without problems, you can tighten it with a wrench, but closer to the middle you already need a tap holder.

The cutting principle is simple. Translational smooth rotational movements back and forth are necessary so that the tap does not get clogged and there is an opportunity for chips to escape. Before cutting, it is advisable to also determine the cutting depth by placing the old bolt against the tap.

As a result, 1 hole was drilled more or less. The bolt was tightened “by hand” with a balloon with force until it stops.

I decided to cut another thread in the diametrically opposite hole of the hub.

But it was not there. The tap began to work around, and the beginning of the new thread that had already been cut began to break off. It turned out that the tap withstood only the cutting of one hole, because... upon external inspection, the edges of the cutters of the tap turned out to be eaten away (that’s the quality for you, although there may be such a “strong” metal in the hub that turned out to be too tough for it)

As a result, we managed to finish the 2nd thread with the 2nd tap. The bolt was tightened with a balloon by hand, but you can still feel it. which is not all the way. In principle, during “re-shoeing” or during repairs at a service station, when you need to remove a wheel, if you take a MORE RESPONSIBLE approach to tightening the bolts “wisely” (ideally using a torque wrench), then everything will hold. I would still periodically recheck the tightness of the bolts, otherwise you never know)) Ideally, replace the hub in the future. All cutting manipulations are a temporary solution.

Update: After manipulating the thread cutting, namely while driving, when braking, a clucking sound appeared, as if something was clinging. Today I took off the wheel, removed the brake drum and found the reason - the new bolts are 2.5 turns longer than the original ones (m12x1.25), because of this, the parking brake foot began to catch when braking. In addition to everything, I went through 2 previously cut threads with a 2 number tap. To be honest, the 1st roughing tap does not completely cut the thread, or, to be more precise, the height of the thread. I cut off the excess length from the new bolts, assembled everything in the reverse order, and tightened the wheel bolts “feng shui”. I'm happy. Now all the bolts are tightened all the way.

As you know, the wheel hub is the most important part where ball bearings with double-sided seals are used. On a VAZ 2110, replacing the rear hub is a complex and responsible matter. Although, replacing the rear hub of a VAZ 2110 can be done easily with your own hands, which is what will be discussed in this article.