Repair and replacement of the hub for VAZ (lada) 2110/2111/2112

Working with the puller

If you still don’t want to damage the bearing, then you can replace it without knocking it out of the hub. In order to remove it from there, you can use a special puller. Removal is much easier with this device.

To do this, you need to carefully insert the puller's paws into the grooves on the hub and remove the ring. Sometimes this requires some effort; the ring must be pryed with a screwdriver and removed. Using the device, the part is removed and the nicks on the component are smoothed out.

Then, using a puller, you can also press the new part into the steering knuckle. This tool allows you to press the hub with high quality. Working with a tool of this type greatly simplifies the entire process, and the technician will need less time for all removal and installation. But operating the unit requires some skill and great care.

As you can see from this article, even such a simple repair job as replacing a wheel bearing can have many nuances.

A wheel bearing malfunction on a VAZ-2112 can be detected when an unpleasant noise or hum is heard while driving. Since this problem is quite common on those cars whose mileage exceeds 100,000 kilometers, today we will analyze in detail the step-by-step process of repairing (replacing - approx.) this front-wheel drive system.

Please note that front wheel bearings should only be purchased in Russia and from domestic manufacturers. Chinese analogues, assembled from low-quality materials, have a short service life, and besides, the difference in price is not significant.

Chinese analogues, assembled from low-quality materials, have a short service life, and besides, the difference in price is not significant.

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1. Remove the washer by unscrewing the wheel bearing nut all the way.
2. Insert bolts (about 130mm long with M12x1.25mm thread) into the two holes of the brake disc. Screw the bolts into the hub holes to a depth equal to its thickness.
3. We press out the hub by sharply hitting the bolt heads with the brake disc.
4. Unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the steering knuckle and remove the CV joint from the bearing hole.

Necessary tool

Before you start work, you need to prepare all the tools and assemble them in one place:

• Special puller for bearing removal.
• Collar.
• Head at "30".
• Keys or sockets for “17” and “19”.
• Mandrel for knocking out the hub.
• New wheel bearings.

The tool is assembled and ready to use

Preparatory work

Make sure that the workplace is well lit, and it is best if it is on a viewing hole or a lift. Because this is the only way to talk about high convenience when carrying out such work. It would also be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the detailed diagram of the location of the bearing on the front hub of the VAZ-2112.

Thanks to this illustration, the diagram becomes very clear.

Step-by-step work order

First of all, we place the car in a stationary state, put on the handbrake, and, if desired, install wheel chocks. And while the car is on the surface, we tear off all the bolts on the front wheels.

We unscrew the torn bolts and put them aside. We remove the wheel.

Next, we need to use a “30” wrench to unscrew the hub nut

Please note that during its dismantling, you will have to press the brake pedal, and for this we will need an assistant.

Then, using a screwdriver, press out the calipers. When this operation is completed, having the key at hand at “17”, unscrew the calipers from the steering knuckles.

1. Carefully unscrew the brake disc from the hub.
2. Then, making gentle blows, we release the hub.
3. And then the CV joint from the bearing.

Replacing the wheel bearing

Then, when access to the hub bearing is completely open, there are several ways to replace it.

First way

In this case, it is necessary to have a special puller to remove the bearing.

1. First you need to take care of removing the stopper.
2. Using this device, you simply remove the old bearing and install a new one in its place.
3. After this, we carry out the entire assembly process in the same order as removal.

• The advantages of this method include the fact that during this work there is no need to touch the wheel alignment bolt, therefore, you will not have to add additional work.
• The disadvantages of this method include inconvenience during the process. Because you have to contrive and take an extremely uncomfortable position.

Second way

To carry out this work, it is necessary to carefully dismantle the steering knuckle and completely remove the hub.

• Moving to the workbench, we replace the wheel bearing.
• To do this, dismantle the retaining ring and knock the bearing out of its seat, or press it out.
• Next, we perform the installation in reverse order, having previously cleaned the surface of the hub.

Advice! Before you begin removing the alignment bolts, mark their position with a marker or chalk. In this case, the marks should indicate the current position of the bolt on the rack and the previous location of the knuckles. Thanks to such marks, during assembly it will be much easier to navigate the position of these bolts. Although it will not be possible to return to the previous state, it will still be possible to minimize it.

Putting marks

1. We put marks.
2. We knock out all the bolts from the fist.
3. Remove the mounting bolts on the lower ball joint.
4. This will knock the bearing out of the hub.
5. Remove the retaining rings.
6. Press out the bearing.
7. We mount a new bearing, having previously cleaned the space of the hub and generously coated its surface.

This repair method will be very effective when not only the wheel bearing is subject to repair, but also most of the VAZ-2112 chassis. Such elements include the replacement of steering tips, silent blocks of levers and ball joints.

Third way

To perform work using this method, it is necessary to remove the entire rack completely.

The stand has been dismantled.

1. Next, using a vice, we replace the wheel bearing.
2. Because this is how the replacement will happen quickly and efficiently.

After dismantling the bearings, we install everything in the reverse order, assemble the rack and mount it on the car.

Do we make the puller ourselves or buy it?

If you do not want to knock out the bearing, you can purchase a special puller in stores, since the entire process of working with such a device becomes easier and the time required for work is reduced. This also applies to bearing installation work.

Hand-made hub puller

Disassembly

Required : engage first gear and place shoes under the wheels. Prepare a narrow chisel, a 30mm socket, pliers, a needle file and a standard set of tools. The wheel bearing can be replaced on a level surface, but it is more convenient to do so on an inspection ditch or a lift.

Procedure:

1. Remove the hub cap.
2. Straighten the dented shoulder of the wheel bearing nut in two places using a narrow chisel.
3. Loosen the hub bearing nut using a 30mm socket. The head and driver must be strong enough to transmit the required force.

Loosen the wheel mounting bolts, and then hang both front wheels, otherwise the anti-roll bar will interfere with dismantling, pushing the suspension elements up. Remove the wheel, the brake pad guide together with the caliper and the brake disc (tie them so that they do not hang on the brake hose).

How to adjust the differential preload of a VAZ 2114

It happens that the blocking begins to lag or does not work at all. The reason is that the preload decreases or disappears altogether. In this case, you should not rush to change the entire assembly; it is recommended to try to increase its value (preload) yourself. To do this, you need to select the required thickness of the adjusting ring and install it in the gearbox housing socket. The whole procedure is quite labor-intensive, so it is recommended to use the vehicle’s operating instructions.

Causes of malfunctions

Due to the design features of the differential and its operational purpose, destructive processes occur due to friction, force loads and other reasons. As a result, active wear of the unit and its elements occurs. The main causes of malfunctions are as follows:

• Bearing wear and damage to their integrity;
• Damage or wear of oil seals;
• Insufficient amount of oil in the transmission, as well as its poor quality;
• Other reasons.

The first signs of problems in the operation of the VAZ 2114 differential:

• Increased noise in the bridge or box;
• Oil leaks;
• Bridge jamming;
• Plays and knocks during inspection;
• And other non-standard operation of the unit and its components.

If you observe abnormal operation of the differential mechanisms, the first thing that is recommended to do is to check all the connections of the unit for tightness and no oil leakage. If the integrity of connections and fastenings is not broken, and signs (noise or disruption of functionality) are present, dismantling and disassembling of the unit is required to identify and eliminate the causes.

Diagnostics of serviceability of VAZ 2112 wheel bearings

When operating a car, regular maintenance of all parts is necessary. An important role in extending the service life of the machine is replacing the grease in the bearings and periodically adjusting the clearances. The average service life of bearings is up to 60 thousand km. Poor quality of roads, jumps and jumps on pits also reduce the service life of the part.

To check the serviceability of the play, you need to hang the problem wheel and spin it well. The bearings should move freely along the axis, without jamming or noticeable friction. If the play cannot be eliminated by adjusting, and a distinct noise is heard when driving, the hub bearing has probably failed. We turn the wheel in all directions. Please note that two elements may fail at once.

Rings and rollers should not have scuffs or the slightest signs of wear. If any are found, replacing the wheel bearings cannot be avoided.

Determining the need to replace the bearing

To determine bearing failure, you need to perform simple steps yourself. I myself use the following diagnostics:

— after a long ride, carefully place your palm on the hub and check whether the metal part heats up; If so, this is the first sign of a breakdown;

— try accelerating to 40 km/h and listen to the sounds ahead with the windows open. Hear a whistle, hum, grinding or howling - another confirmation of the need to replace the part; - increase speed. As it increases, the howling will stop and then periodically appear with renewed vigor. Another bell rings; - Place your car on a jack and manually spin the wheel. The grinding and whistling will repeat. To be completely sure, rock the wheel perpendicular to the axle. If you find any play, the bearing definitely needs to be replaced.

Nuances

In the process of reassembling the entire node, you must proceed as follows:

• Press in the bearings;
• Install retaining rings;
• Collect your fists;
• Mount new bearing components on them;
• Mount the assembly on the hub;
• Using a mandrel, you need to drive the hubs until they stop.

You can use a puller or press to press in bearing parts. But in no case should you use a hammer, since in this case cracking of the component will inevitably occur. The forces should be directed to the outer rings.

It should also be noted that double-row ball bearings are installed in the hubs, which do not require lubrication and adjustment measures.

Due to the lack of such care, the VAZ 2110 bearings will certainly be destroyed when removed from the hub, so this measure should only be resorted to for a complete replacement.

Replacing the hub is an important matter

Replacing the front hub of a VAZ 2110 diagram

If you do not take any action, then very sad consequences are possible, because a faulty hub cannot hold the bolts that secure the car’s wheels. Therefore, at high speed the wheel can simply fly off.

Note. Replacing a hub on a VAZ 2110 is quite difficult. But, having patience and certain knowledge, this process does not imply anything terrible or impossible.

Removing the old hub

To complete the work you will need the following tools:

• two wrenches “17”;
• a universal wrench designed to remove a wheel;
• set of heads;
• wrench “22”;
• ball joint remover;
• jack.

Front hub VAZ 2110

When starting work, first of all, a support is installed under the car. Shoes are also installed under the wheels of the vehicle for stability. So:

Note. If your car has an anti-lock braking system, you will need to remove the ABS sensor from the front wheel.

• Using a punch or screwdriver, remove the protective cap, which is located in the center of the wheel hub.

Note. In cases where the protective cap is damaged, it must be replaced.

• Then, if there is a spring, it is removed from the hub axis.

Replacing the front wheel hub of a VAZ 2110

• After this, the clamping bolt is loosened, which secures the hub fastening nut from unscrewing, then the nut is unscrewed and removed from the hub axle. If there is a thrust washer, it must also be removed.
• The front wheel hub is removed from the steering knuckle.

Front wheel hub VAZ 2110

Note. If the hub cannot be removed, you will have to use a puller.

• If the inner bearing ring remains on the steering knuckle, it is removed from the hub axis using a puller, after which the hub sealing ring is removed.
• The condition of the steering knuckle axle is checked. If necessary, it must be replaced.

Before installing a new spare part, several procedures will need to be carried out to ensure that the part lasts a long time. For this:

• The inner ring of the outer bearing is removed from the hub.
• Then the o-ring is removed from the rear of the hub and the inner race of the inner bearing of the hub is removed.

VAZ 2110 front hub

• The hub is installed on the appropriate mandrel and the inner ring of the outer bearing is knocked out using a drift and a hammer.

Note. In this case, you should not warp the ring, because the bearing seat in the hub can be damaged.

• After this, the hub turns over and the outer ring of the inner bearing is knocked out.

Installing a new hub

VAZ 2110 front wheel hub new

• Using sandpaper, the hub is cleaned of grease and dirt, and burrs on the hub are sanded. The condition of the hub is checked for mechanical damage, cracks and wear. If defects are found, the hubs will have to be replaced.

Note. In VAZ 2110 cars with an anti-lock braking system, the condition of the sensor gear rotor is checked.

• A new hub is taken. Before assembly, a thin layer of lubricant is applied to the outer ring of the bearing, as well as to the mating surface of the hub. The inner ring raceways are also lubricated.
• The new hub is then installed on the mandrel.

VAZ 2110 front hub

• The outer ring of the inner bearing is installed in the hub. Using a tubular mandrel, which rests on the outer ring of the bearing and a press, the bearing ring is pressed into the hub until it stops.

Note. During the pressing process, the bearing ring should also not be warped.

• After this, the hub is turned over and in the same way the outer ring of the outer bearing is pressed into the hub.
• The inner race of the inner bearing is installed. The sealing ring is installed on the rear of the hub with the working edges facing the bearing. The bearings are filled with grease, which makes up two-thirds of the total grease volume, then the inner ring of the outer bearing is installed.

Only after the procedures described above can the hub be installed in its rightful place:

• First, a thin layer of lubricant is applied to the rear of the hub O-ring and the hub is installed onto the steering knuckle axle.
• A thrust washer is installed and a nut is screwed on to secure the hub.
• The hub fixing nut is screwed in, and the inner rings of the bearing are pressed onto the steering knuckle axle.
• After the hub is installed, the axial play of the hub bearing is adjusted.
• After the adjustment is completed, the clamping bolt is tightened, which secures the fastening nut from unscrewing.
• Then a spring is installed on the steering knuckle axle.
• A protective cap with lubricant is installed on the hub.
• After this, the brake disc is installed and, if there is an anti-lock braking system, the sensor is installed.

The process of replacing the front wheel hub does not take much time and does not require special experience. It is enough just to study the design of the hub, watch the corresponding video and photo materials, read the necessary manuals for its removal, replacement, installation, and you can perform the procedure yourself. Step-by-step instructions for self-replacement will not only save money, but will also protect the family budget from unexpected expenses (after all, the price for services of this kind in auto repair shops is high).

You can also find out about replacing the rear hub on our resource.

Replacing rear wheel wheel bearings on a VAZ yourself

The rear wheel bearing of the VAZ 2110 is changed according to the instructions, but first consider the following points:

1. The bearing cannot be reinstalled.
2. It is recommended to replace the second bearing immediately, on the other hand.

We disassemble the hub assembly and dismantle the product

1. First, loosen the bolts securing the wheel and the hub nut.

1. Next, we jack up the car.

1. The decorative wheel cap (boot) also needs to be removed.

1. Now use a hexagon to unscrew the pins that hold the drum; you don’t need to remove the pads.

1. Unscrew the hub nut using the wrench extension and remove the washer. If you are performing such work for the first time, in this case it is advisable to unscrew it before lifting the car with a jack.

1. Dismantling the hub - we use a removable device.

1. Using the puller, we install the device on the axle.

1. We hook our paws onto the back surface of the hub part.

1. We install and check the correct installation of the legs, now we tighten the threaded connection with a wrench.

1. The hub can be easily removed, leaving the outer bearing ring with balls and a separator inside.

1. The inner ring of the old wheel bearing will remain on the axle.

1. We attach the puller, as shown in the photo, to the rear end. You may need sharper paws, or we can remove it with a different puller.

1. Pull the inner ring off the axle shaft. It is recommended to perform this operation exclusively using a puller.

1. Now we press the old parts out of the hub; first, use round pliers to remove the locking element.

1. Next, we dismantle the protective casing (boot), clamp the hub in a vice and carefully knock off this cover with a chisel and hammer.

1. All that remains is to press out the outer race. To do this, we select a head of the required outer diameter (slightly less than 60 mm), as well as special spacers that are needed so that the bearing comes out on the other side when pressed out.

1. We clamp the structure and twist until the bearing comes out of the housing. This completes the dismantling, all that remains is to replace the old element.

Installing and replacing the wheel bearing

Before installing the ball bearings, clean the inner seating surface of the hub from dirt and rust.

During the pressing process, it is important to maintain a smooth force and ensure that there are no distortions.

1. We fit the new bearing into the hole, evenly and without distortions, then clamp it in a vice as in the second photo.

1. We tighten it in a vice and press it to the end.
2. When replacing, we will use the old race and press the bearing in completely.

Important Recommendations:

1. It is not recommended to insert and remove the bearing using the impact method, since there are many non-impact, safe methods. 2. When pressing, the mandrel must rest strictly against the outer part of the holder.

1. After pressing, install the locking ring.

1. After we insert the ring, do not forget to put the casing on, this is done with a hammer through the spacer.

1. The bearing has been replaced. We begin assembly, put the hub in place, tighten it to a torque of 19-23 kgf/m. Be sure to lock the shoulder of the locknut.

1. Install the brake drum and then the wheel.

1. Further assembly of the unit is performed using reverse technology. Replacement is complete.

Assembly

Clean and lubricate the inner surface of the steering knuckle. Use a puller to press the new bearing into the steering knuckle. In this case, the large puller washer rests on the steering knuckle from the inside so as not to damage its mud rings, and when pressing, the new bearing can be pressed through the old bearing, which will transmit force only through the outer ring. Install the retaining ring. Use a puller to press the hub into the bearing. Now the puller washers rest against the inner race of the bearing and the hub.

We carry out further assembly in the reverse order, tighten the bearing nut to the prescribed torque and be sure to lock it by jamming the collar.

In conclusion, I would like to note that replacing a hub bearing on a new car is not difficult, but if the suspension parts are many years old, then removing the hub and other elements will be very problematic. Replacing the wheel bearing is shown in the video:

By the way, do you know how to check the suspension yourself?

Replace the wheel bearing yourself...

Step-by-step instructions for replacing a 16 valve car

It is better to carry out the replacement on an inspection groove or overpass, so that it is convenient to work under the machine.

Tools

You should prepare for the replacement procedure by preparing:

• a set of keys;
• jack;
• new consumables.

  New alternator belt for replacement

Stages

The replacement procedure is different for cars equipped with and without power steering. Below we will consider both options.

Replacing the alternator belt on a VAZ 2112 16 valve with installed power steering consists of the following steps:

1. First, remove the power steering fluid reservoir.
2. Then, using a key set to “13”, you need to unscrew the nut, thanks to which the generator is attached to the mounting plate.

   Generator drive with hydraulic booster

3. To remove the old strap, loosen the tension roller.
4. To remove the dismantled part, you need to remove the motor from the support. First you need to unscrew the cushion, and then jack up the engine until a gap appears. We take out the belt through the gap formed.
5. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
6. There are some nuances during installation. First, the tensioner must be clamped to its extreme position.
7. Then you should tighten the belt on all the pulleys and lastly on the tension roller. This procedure is a little labor intensive.
8. After complete installation, it is necessary to tension the belt. Using the hammer handle, press and fix the tensioner.

At this stage, the difference between cars with hydraulic booster appears - they do not have an adjusting bolt. Tension adjustment is done using a tension roller.

The procedure on a car without power steering is simpler:

1. Using a “13” wrench, unscrew the generator mounting nut.
2. We loosen the belt tension by turning the adjusting bolt with a wrench to “10” counterclockwise.
3. Having moved the generator towards the cylinder block, we remove the belt.
4. Next, we put the new consumable on the drive by rotating the adjusting bolt.
5. At the next stage, we tighten the strap using the adjusting nut. We move the generator as far as possible from the cylinder block. By rotating the adjusting bolt clockwise, we increase the tension, and counterclockwise, we loosen it.
6. Then the crankshaft must be turned two turns and the tension checked again.

   Generator drive without power steering

This concludes the procedure for replacing the alternator belt on a VAZ 2112 16 valves. By doing it yourself, you can save on visiting a car service center. In addition, knowing how to change the alternator belt, you will feel confident on your trip, since you can always change this spare part yourself.

Selecting and manufacturing a wheel bearing puller

pages:

A wheel bearing puller is a specialized tool designed for pressing and pressing parts into vehicle hub units.

Since the bearings are installed on the seating surfaces with interference, pressing or pressing them requires a lot of force to be applied to a limited area of ​​the unit. Conclusion - for this operation you need a reliable and also universal tool.

A wide range of size ranges for hub units correspond to various types of wheel bearing pullers (HBP). Choosing the right puller for replacing bearings is not easy. You will learn what parameters to follow by reading the article. We will also touch on the topic of making the device yourself and how to operate the tool.

Types of wheel bearing pullers

Study the summary table, which presents several main types of BSC, as well as specific recommended models.

Type and modelApplicationAverage price, rub.

What pullers are needed to remove and press in wheel bearings?

For the front and rear wheels, it is recommended to use two types of tools: with three or two legs and a cup puller - this is the minimum set of removable tools for the correct and safe removal and pressing of parts of hub units.

Any of the tools can be replaced with a hydraulic or manual press, as well as a vice, but other pressing methods are described at the end of the article.

A quick overview of wheel ball bearing pullers

It is impossible to choose a universal kit for all types of car repairs, since the range of actions is limited:

• a variety of shapes, sizes for charging to the starting position;
• limited work space.

Cup - “Force 9T0311”

1. Internal mandrels 34-80 mm.
2. External mandrels 44-90 mm.
3. The dimensions of the outer diameter of the cups are 44-90 mm.
4. Rod (stud) with nuts.
5. The plates fit a wide range of sizes.
6. The steering knuckle remains in place.
7. The set is included in the workshop press kit.
8. Pressing-pressing takes place in one step.

Price 18000 RUR

Garage tool. Suitable for use in restricted access work areas.

1. Long life if you follow the manual.
2. The articulated design of the paws engages securely.
3. Removing stuck parts from shafts and machine axles.
4. Wide grip range - 20-230 mm.
5. Maximum force - 4.5 tons.
6. Screw rod dimensions: M18 x1.5 x 240.
7. The dimensions of the bolts for the hinges are 19 mm.

Price 11500 RUR

The tools from the set of the German manufacturer Kukko are well-thought-out forms of gripping mechanisms. On the traverse, the paws move along guides, and the suspension screws fix the specified position.

1. Grasp the paws at an angle parallel to the axis of the tension force.
2. Reliability of engagement.
3. Maximum tension - 5.5 tons.
4. The legs rotate 180 degrees.
5. Wide grip range.
6. Double acting.
7. Suitable for use in confined spaces.

Price 6000 RUR

You can also find hydraulic pullers on the market. The operating principle of hydraulic SSPs is similar to jacks. Designed for repair shop mechanics, no muscle power required, speeding up the repair time. Pay attention to the quality of the metal, the rotation of the screw rod, and the condition of the hinges.

1. the force of influence on the pressed-in unit reaches 20 tons,
2. operation time is reduced,
3. the share of physical costs is reduced.

1. limitation of the working area of ​​application,
2. the price is higher than a mechanical tool.

Wheel and bearing puller for VAZ and LADA cars

To replace the front and rear hub units on VAZs, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, two types of removable devices are needed.

1. Gripping tools are used to remove the ball bearing from the rear wheel.
2. For pressing and pressing the bearing at the front wheel, cup types are used.

You can select models of these tools from the overview presented above. To select a cup puller, focus on the outer and inner diameters of your bearings, but as a rule, it is enough to read reviews and get advice from the seller.

For VAZ cars, for example, the model Force 9T0311, AV Steel AV-922722, MHRTOOLS MHR04039, NEO 11-829 are suitable. Suitable for pressing bearings into rear or front hubs, as well as into the steering knuckle. Insert the washer on the reverse side, tighten the nut, and put the key on the hold. Then rotate the stem nut clockwise.

Hot topics of the magazine BEHIND THE DRIVE:

Recommendations and tips when choosing a puller

• Don't buy expensive sets. There is a rational grain in this: replacing wheel bearings does not happen so often. The minimum service life is 50-60 thousand mileage.
• Select the BSCs described above. Cheap analogues or home-made ones will do.
• For continuous work, as in auto repair shops, hydraulic-type SSPs, as well as the universal cup set of the KS TOOLS series, are suitable.

Do-it-yourself universal wheel bearing puller

Buying a puller is not always justified, since it is not used so often when operating and repairing a car, so if you want, you can make the tool yourself.

Homemade tools also have advantages:

• Proven material.
• Possibility to make it to your own size.
• The cost is lower than that of a purchased device.
• Possibility of finishing or alteration.

Homemade three-grip tool

This type of tool is the most difficult to manufacture, since the parts have a unique shape and require precise dimensions to mate them.

Required tools and materials:

1. Grinder with cutting disc for metal;
2. Sheet 1 m2 10-20 mm thick;
3. Hairpin M18x1.5x 400 mm;
4. Two nuts M18x1.5 height 20 mm;
5. Pipe section outer diameter 89 mm, wall thickness 7 mm;
6. M10 bolts for hanging the legs in the eyes;
7. Welding machine.

The legs are cut from a sheet of 10-20 mm, L = 200-220 mm, the cross is made from an M18x1.5 nut, or cut out of a solid sheet with a grinder. Mark the contours of the crosspiece, cut it out, drill a hole in the center, then use an M18x1.5 tap to cut the thread.

Second option: weld a nut to the sheet instead of threading it. Holes are made in the eyes for M8 or M10 bolts.

: “Making three gripping devices”

Cup puller

The main part of the tool: M18 pin, cup and replaceable disks. A threaded bolt and nut can be picked up in a store, but the remaining parts will have to be ordered from a turner based on a sketch or drawing.

For VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111 washers are suitable - 30, 34, 37, 77 mm, bowl (ring) - 77 mm. For other car brands, find the original part number and its dimensions, and then cut out the appropriate washers and cups.

: “Do-it-yourself cup puller”

Double jaw wheel hub puller

Having amateur welding skills, two gripping devices are made from plates, nuts, and studs.

Not the easiest way to make a SSP in a garage; to assemble it you will need:

1. Sheet 5 mm;
2. Bolt M 14x1.5x 240;
3. Bolts with nuts M6;
4. Nuts M14.

: “Do-it-yourself two-gripper device”

Removable traverse for pressing out

This option is suitable for pressing and pressing the ball bearing out of the hub without removing it from the knuckle. The photo shows an example of such a design.

1. One or two strong steel plates are taken, a hole for the bolt is drilled on top and a nut is welded.
2. A second nut is welded coaxially from below.
3. Next, holes are made for M10 bolts at equal intervals. The legs are cut from a 10 mm plate.
4. The two plates are bolted together. Between them there is a long M16 bolt.

The only purchase is a crown to match the size of the ball bearing race. Cut the required washers from a 10 mm strip.

Tools and materials required:

1. Bulgarian;
2. Welding and drilling machine;
3. Internal pipe section D 75 mm;
4. Strip 70x30x5, 2 pieces;
5. M6 bolts with nuts 4 pieces, lock nuts 8 pieces
6. Thick-walled washer D 45mm.

Drawings for self-production of pullers:

Click on the drawing you are interested in to enlarge it.

Hot topics on DRIVE2:

How to operate a cup puller

Pressing:

1. We charge the housing puller.
2. Insert the bearing into the hole in the knuckle.
3. A washer with the diameter of the body is placed on top.
4. We press the housing into the socket until it rests against the locking ring.

Pressing out:

1. Use a reverse hammer to knock out the hub.
2. On the reverse side we place the washer in the hole.
3. Let's skip the rod.
4. From the outside we put on a cup larger than the diameter of the fist.
5. Rotate the rod clockwise until the remaining ball bearing is completely released.
6. Let's analyze the design.

Photo report of the application:

Operating procedure for a 3-jaw puller

Pressing out:

1. Secure the fist in a vice.
2. Charge the puller.
3. The hub is pressed out using a hydraulic rod.
4. In the same way, squeeze out the remains of the ball bearing.

Pressing in reverse order:

1. Insert the locking ring and turn the fist over.
2. The bearing is guided into the hole.
3. A washer is placed on top under the outer ring.
4. Press in until it stops.
5. The hub is pressed in in the same way.

Photo report of the application:

The kit includes a set of feet. This mechanical puller with three legs removes hubs, ball bearing races and other parts from shafts and axles.

Other methods of pressing and pressing

Pressing out:

1. The fist is placed on the pressing table and bars are placed.
2. Take a washer along the diameter of the ball bearing housing and place it under the press rod.
3. Press out the remains of the ball bearing from the fist.

Pressing:

1. First, prepare the hub.
2. Turn the fist over and install the retaining ring.
3. Insert the ball bearing into the socket.
4. A washer is placed on top to match the size of the ball bearing housing.
5. Press in until it stops.
6. Then press the hub into the bearing hole.

If there is an ABS magnetic ring, place it on the axle side.

Using bench vices and bolts

1 way:

Here, under the jaws of the vice, cut pieces of a profile pipe are placed on the edges of the hub, leaving a gap for the bearing to exit, and a mandrel along the diameter of the outer race is clamped on the reverse side. Then squeeze it out. It turns out to be a homemade cup SSP.

using a vice:

Using bolts to remove the hub:

Method 2:

The bearing is pre-installed into the hub, then the assembly is placed in a vice so that the jaws pass exactly in the center. Slowly tighten, thereby compressing the parts. To achieve the final result, it is necessary to place an additional spacer under the end of the ball bearing race.

Replacement and installation of the bearing through the jaws of the vice:

Impact method

The last and most not recommended method is the use of shock loading.

1. Place your fist on wooden blocks.
2. Take an adapter to match the size of the hub axle.
3. They hit the manual with a massive sledgehammer.
4. The remaining part of the bearing is knocked out with a guide to the size of the outer race.

Use a back hammer to knock the hub into position.

It is better to take the fist to a workshop, where they will replace the bearing for little money.

Conclusion

When repairing a hub assembly in a garage, parts are removed and dismantled without the use of special tools. The use of removable devices (RDF) is necessary when assembling the unit, pressing in the ball bearing, to ensure the accuracy of the mating.

To select a device, use the recommendations from the article. They also make tools of this type with their own hands; standard instructions, drawings and photos are presented in the material. Finally, he recommends using a professional tool when replacing wheel bearings.

Option for correct replacement of hubs:

Our website has a lot of useful information on this topic:

Author of the material:

List of required spare parts and tools

The domestic spare parts market offers a wide range of parts for replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ 2115 and similar models, but when choosing, you should pay attention to those that have the approval of the automaker, thereby confirming their quality, namely:

• rear wheel bearing (original art. 2108 – 3104020 – 00);
• retaining rings 2 pcs (art. RG2108 – 3104800);
• hub nut with safety washer (art. art. RG2108 – 3104800);

Carry out the work of replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ 2115 quickly, reliably and without damaging other suspension components, possibly using the following tools:

• open-end wrenches (available in sets from 8 to 21 mm);
• socket heads (set from 8 to 24 mm);
• car jack;
• 30 mm socket head and extended knob;
• torque wrench;
• thin round nose pliers for removing retaining rings;
• specialized bearing presser;
• specialized hub puller;
• hammer;
• Screwdriver Set;
• bottle WD 40;
• brush;
• gloves for hand safety.

The cost of fixing this problem at the sites of official dealers ranges from 3,500 to 4,000 rubles (at the end of 2022), small private garage-type workshops estimate it from 2,000 to 3,000 rubles. The presence of the above-mentioned parts and tools, as well as simple car mechanic skills, will allow the owner to carry out repairs with his own hands without much difficulty.

Reliable simple do-it-yourself bearing puller - Do it yourself

How can you tell if a wheel bearing has failed? By the sound! The main symptom is a hum that gets worse during acceleration. If it occurs only occasionally, it means the bearing has just started to fail.

A constant suspicious sound as the load increases means that this part of the car requires immediate replacement. In any case, to carry out repairs you will need a bearing puller.

You can buy it or make it yourself.

How a puller makes life easier for a car owner

Using this tool, you can dismantle bearings, bushings, pulleys, flanges and other components, remove or fix rings and gears, and repair chassis elements.

It greatly facilitates the process of maintenance and repair of various parts of the vehicle. Using the right puller, you can quickly and easily replace a damaged element without the risk of damaging the machine elements connected to it.

In addition, the tool can be used to work with hard-to-reach parts of the car, in a convenient position.

Products can have different designs, but the most common is the following - several gripping arms, which are shaped like hooks, and a threaded rod between them. Thanks to this structure, you can easily grab the required element and press the bearing out of it.

Kinds

Tools are divided into two groups.

• Hydraulic. When they operate, hydraulic traction is used; removal and landing are performed in semi-automatic mode. The main part of such a puller is a hydraulic nut, the internal cavity of which presses on a special piston. This, in turn, transfers the force to the desired part. The hydraulic model is in demand among owners of trucks and other large vehicles - with its help you can easily remove the most massive internal parts.

This is what a hydraulic bearing puller looks like

• Mechanical. They operate from human muscular strength and are in demand for mounting/dismounting wheel bearings. There are two-jaw, three-jaw and internal ones. Two-grip ones are the simplest. They are used where maximum process control is needed. Three-jaw machines are equipped with three paws and are used for working with the front hub and generator. Internal options are useful for removing ball and needle roller bearings; in addition, they can be used to dismantle various brass couplings.

: How to add another driver to OSAGO? Mechanical three-arm model

Bearing pullers can come in different sizes, but the most popular are universal ones. Their parameters can be adjusted manually, adjusting them to any diameter.

You can make different tools with your own hands, but it is best to make a universal three-jawed version - it is convenient to use.

Diagram of a two-jaw puller

Making a universal three-gripper with your own hands

To make a universal three-jaw puller designed for working with bearings ranging in size from 202 to 308, you will need:

• sheet metal (10 mm wide);
• round metal with a diameter of 30 mm.

If you plan to remove large bearings, take sheet metal 15 mm wide and round timber 30 mm in diameter.

1. The first stage of production is sketching. Calculate the length of the legs - it should be 200 mm. Sketch the sheet metal according to the drawing and cut out the tabs with a gas cutter that runs on propane and oxygen.
2. Sand the workpiece with heavy sandpaper. The dimensions of all paws should be approximately the same, but absolutely perfect parameters are not required - a difference of approximately 1 mm is allowed. When this part of the work is completed, you need to drill two holes in the top of each tab - these will be used to expand the tool. The diameter of the holes must correspond to the diameter of the 8 or 10 bolts. If you plan to work with large bearings, drill 3 holes for 12 or 14.
3. Making the core. It is made of round metal with a diameter of 30 mm and a length of 35 mm (50 and 45 mm if it is necessary to work with massive bearings). We take the workpiece and drill a hole in it for a 16 mm thread (30 if necessary in a larger product), cut the thread with a fine pitch. We apply marks on the sides every 120 degrees, to which we then weld the paw holders. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foot. Now you need to drill holes in the holders. They should be positioned at a certain distance from the center so that the foot can grip the large bearing. This is what the parts of the future puller should look like
4. The final part of the work is making the screw. For a standard puller you will need a screw 350 mm long with a thread length of 280 mm, for a large one - 500 mm with a thread of 420 mm. We process the workpieces on a lathe and cut the threads. We leave the upper part without threads - there you need to drill through holes located perpendicular to one another, having a slight offset in height.

: About the sale of used cars from AmericaAppearance of the finished product

A simple way to make a homemade removal device

This option is easier to implement, but the product will not be as convenient. You will need the following tools and materials:

• steel pipe, the internal diameter of which will be greater than the diameter of the bearing;
• metal plate more than 5 mm thick;
• Bulgarian;
• stud with nut or bolt with long thread;
• a few nuts.

1. Cut a piece of pipe with the required parameters. Cutting off part of the pipe
2. We mark all the necessary elements on a metal sheet, outline the pipe and bearing. Marking out future details
3. We cut out the parts with a grinder and grind them to meet the exact parameters. Cut parts
4. We drill holes for the bolt in the obtained washers. Drilling holes for bolts
5. That's it, the remover is ready!

Ready puller

How to make a two-jaw wheel bearing puller: video

Making a bearing puller with your own hands is not at all difficult - you don’t need either expensive materials or specific skills. Using the instructions, you will easily cope with the task and get a useful tool for car repair.

Do-it-yourself puller for tightening bearings - Construction Blog

Homemade pullers

When repairing electric motors, in addition to open-end wrenches and a set of heads, you definitely need to have in your arsenal several pullers for tightening (removing) bearings. One universal one simply won’t do. If you have electric motors on your site from 1 kW.

and up to 100 kW, then 2-3 are necessary. I have in my arsenal two pullers for removing bearings. At the moment, there is a large selection of pullers in the markets and can be purchased there.

But at the same time, if you have the material, a lathe, gas and electric welding, and the desire, then you can make a puller yourself. And I assure you, it will serve you for decades. It’s better to make three-legged ones, the most comfortable ones.

I will also indicate the dimensions of my own pullers, which have long been tested during repairs. Let's start with a small one, with which you can remove bearings from sizes 202 to 308, large 317 and more. We will need sheet metal 10mm wide and round metal 30mm in diameter.

(for huge metal 15 mm and round timber with a diameter of 50 mm). First we make a sketch (pattern) of the puller legs. We make the length of the legs 200mm.

Next, we draw a sketch on the sheet metal according to the pattern. You need to cut the legs with a gas cutter (propane and oxygen). After cutting, we process the workpieces using large sandpaper.

Homemade pullers for removing bearings

Evenly adjust the sizes of the 3 legs to the same size. There is no need to achieve very perfect dimensions, the difference is 1mm.

the negative role will not be included in the design. When the paws are made and adjusted, in the upper part we drill two holes (for a small expansion of capabilities) with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm for bolts (for a huge 12 or 14 mm, 3 holes) for attaching the paw to the core of the puller.

We do the same with the remaining 2 paws. Drill holes in them along the first leg using it as a template. Here you need to try to prevent the difference in size from allowing the bearing to be removed to be captured immediately.

Puller disassembled

The next detail is the core. For the core for a small puller, we need round metal with a diameter of 30 mm and a length of 35 mm (for a huge one, respectively, 50 mm by 45 mm). In the workpiece, we drill a hole for a 16 mm thread (for a huge puller, there is a hole in its workpiece with a diameter of 30 mm) and cut the thread, preferably with a small pitch.

In the prepared part for the core, apply markings, three marks at 120 degrees. And to these places we weld them using electric welding, two per mark - the foot holders (the distance between the holders should be the width of the foot). I think there is no need to describe in detail how to prepare them, because there is no point in adhering to any serious rules and dimensions.

After welding, we process this part in the same way using large sandpaper.

Now, having tried on the paw, we drill holes in the holders. Drill the holes at a distance from the center, so that the installed foot has good movement to the side to capture larger bearings. And the 3rd part of our puller is a screw.

For the 1st puller we make a length of 350mm, thread length 280mm, for the 2nd - length 500mm, for a thread 420mm. Next, on a lathe, we process the workpieces and cut the threads. In the upper part of the screw, where there are no threads, we drill through holes with a slight offset in height and perpendicular to each other.

Wheel alignment

After replacing wheel rims, the dimensions and bolt patterns of which differ from those provided for by the design of the VAZ 2110, it is necessary to make all the necessary adjustments in order to ensure reliable protection of the entire chassis, as well as tires and arches.

Correct alignment angles are required for each front wheel. There are three parameters that require correct installation: wheel toe, caster angles of the steering axles, and camber angles of each wheel.

The rules by which the parameters of the front wheel are set are as follows:

1. You won't go far if everything hangs out the way it wants, and the car is pulled to the side when it should be going straight. To ensure the stability of each front wheel, they are installed strictly at the required angles to the body and suspension elements. This is called the longitudinal inclination angles of the turning axis. Installation dimensions are indicated in the instruction manual;
2. Camber is the angle between the plane in which the wheel rotates and the vertical. The camber bolt helps install it (it secures the telescopic strut and steering knuckle). If the camber is installed incorrectly, the car “steals” and the tire tread wears out more on one side;
3. The angle between the longitudinal axis of the car and the plane of rotation of the wheel is called toe. It is toe that is responsible for the controllability of the front wheel when cornering and at different speeds. If the toe is set incorrectly, there is severe lateral tire wear, tires squeal when cornering, and even increased fuel consumption.

A few tips for motorists

• Reassemble in reverse order (see steps 1-4 at the beginning of this article).
• These videos will make repairs much easier. A step-by-step guide will help you achieve your goal, and in just a few tens of minutes you will be able to enjoy the effect of your work without additional costs and by resorting to a service station.
• It is quite simple to understand that the front wheel hub of a VAZ 2110 is damaged. While driving, occasional grinding, humming and knocking noises are heard.

In order for the camber to remain normal after replacement, it must be replaced without removing the camber bolts.

The plant recommends that car owners replace the front wheel hub units after a mileage of 55,000 km.