The front wheel bearing on the Priora VAZ 2170, as on other VAZ cars, often fails, especially when the mileage exceeds 80,000 km. First there is noise from the wheel, which can increase during acceleration. Vibration also often occurs, wheel play increases, and in some cases the noise turns into a grinding sound - all these signs mean that the front wheel bearing of the Lada Priora requires immediate replacement. If you delay repairs, the consequences can lead to wheel jamming, which leads to unsafe situations on the road.
This article will tell in detail about the principles of replacing wheel ball bearings (hereinafter referred to as SP) on cars of the VAZ family, in particular on the Lada Priora. The instructions are accompanied by many photos and videos. The material also provides information on how to choose a front wheel bearing for a Priora by number, size, price, and manufacturer.
After reading the article, you will understand that replacing the front wheel bearing is done with your own hands without special skills, experience, or special tools, and the price for repair work of this type in a car repair shop is very high.
Priora hub design
These Priora parts are available both rear and front. Therefore, replacing the bearing bearing on them is somewhat different due to design features and differences. Therefore, it is first worth considering their differences before talking about replacing the rolling mechanism itself.
Front hub "Priors", device
The front hub of the Priora, like on other cars, has an independent suspension. That is, it is not tightly fixed to the body, but has a certain freedom of movement being in the steering knuckle. In addition, the front wheels are driven and swivel. This is what causes certain differences in design. Although it is quite simple, replacing the bearing on it is a rather complex procedure. The front hubs of the Priora are metal discs with a neck, inserted into the steering knuckle with devices and devices designed both for their movable connection with the body and for the free movement of the wheel in the direction of rotation. In addition, the drive shaft from the gearbox enters the center of the hub. Therefore, slots are cut inside it. A lever system and a shock absorber strut make this connection. And the ball joints of the steering mechanism control the steering knuckle, into which the hub is pressed.
Replacing the bearing on the front strut of a Priora
To carry out this operation you will need the following tools and devices:
- hammer;
- mandrels;
- screwdriver (large);
- retaining ring remover;
- core;
- chisel;
- two-jaw bearing puller;
- head at "30"
- wrench set to “17” (socket);
- pliers.
The most convenient way to replace a wheel bearing on a Priora is to use a lift. As a last resort, you can jack up the front part and hang the wheel.
First of all, having removed the decorative plug, remove the cap of the hub fastening nut. Under the nut there is a special locking washer, the edge of which is bent over the nut. Using a thin chisel, loosen the nut and loosen it a little.
Now the Priora can be lifted and the wheel completely removed. Using a 17 key, loosen the fastening of the steering knuckle to the strut. Unscrew the ball joint mountings a couple of turns. Completely remove the hub mounting nut. Remove the caliper and brake disc one by one. Completely remove the mounting bolts and remove the steering knuckle and hub.
Removing the old bearing
Using a special drift, knock the hub out of the fist. Often the inner race remains on the hub journal. It needs to be removed with a puller. Pull out the retaining rings on both sides of the bearing. Now it can be pressed out either with a special diameter drift or with a new bearing.
After inserting the new one, secure it with retaining rings. Apply lubricant generously and reassemble the Priora in reverse order. Replace the second bearing in the same way.
Rear hub "Priors", device
Unlike the front, the rear hub of the Priora is mounted on a fixed shaft attached to the supporting beam. And this beam is attached to the body by a system of levers and shock absorber struts. Its design is much simpler, however, as practice shows, removing and replacing the Priora wheel bearing at the rear is often much more difficult than at the front.
Working with rear bearings
So, for this job you will need a slightly smaller set of tools:
- thin chisel;
- hammer;
- head at “30”;
- pliers for removing retaining rings;
- pressing puller for rollers;
- universal three-jaw puller;
- metal brush for removing rust.
Remove the plugs in exactly the same way, unscrew the fastening nut at “30” and loosen it. Lift or jack up the Priora. Remove the wheel completely. Tapping gently with a hammer, remove the brake drum. It is advisable to remove the brake pads to avoid damage.
Completely unscrew the fastening nut. Using a three-jaw puller, remove the hub with the roller from the shaft. Sometimes it may happen that here, too, the inner race remains on the shaft. Well, in this case, again, a two-jaw puller is in hand. But again, it is advisable to pre-treat with anticorrosive. After the required part is removed, just like on the front steering knuckle, remove the retaining rings for replacement. Well, now, slowly, using a special puller (available for sale), press out the old bearing or outer race, if the inner race remains on the shaft. Wipe the hub and shaft thoroughly. Press in the new bearing and secure it with retaining rings. Before replacing the hub, thoroughly brush the brake pad seats while you can. Having seated the hub, put the washer and nut in place, not forgetting to secure the cotter pin. Apply CV joint grease generously.
Be sure to brush the brake drum, and after installing the pads, reassemble everything in the reverse order.
Recommendations
Comments 14
ANY priors have a bearing from Kalina. Of course, exceptions to the rules or alterations by previous owners are not excluded.
I have “tenth” bearings, Priora ’08. www.drive2.ru/l/536633418562142803/
The 10th does not fit on the Priora, they are identical to the Kalina!
When the front one began to hum, I came to the store, they gave me a Priora from Kalina, it was either from Kaldina or from 10K-I xs
All Priora have front step from Kalina
I changed the front hub in the fall. 2008, installed this:
This question also came up recently, 1 Kalinovsky - 68x35x37
2 Eight - 64x34x37. They told me to buy a Kalinovsky from a Yen Prior 2013, I bought it, I thought I would change it, but listening with a stethoscope said not to rush... everything is still going well. Maybe there is an opportunity to agree to take both, and return one based on the results? But I’m inclined that you also have a Kalinovsky, although I never found out which one on mine)), FAG is now in the stash)
And I didn’t encounter vibration at 110 km, I think it was the front hub or hardly
I wrote in a personal message
This question also came up recently, 1 Kalinovsky - 68x35x37
2 Eight - 64x34x37. They told me to buy a Kalinovsky from a Yen Prior 2013, I bought it, I thought I would change it, but listening with a stethoscope said not to rush... everything is still going well. Maybe there is an opportunity to agree to take both, and return one based on the results? But I’m inclined that you also have a Kalinovsky, although I never found out which one on mine)), FAG is now in the stash)
All have Prior from Kalina hubs
Well, it’s quite possible... it’s just a VAZ)))
It’s not possible and there’s no need for vases in foreign countries, too, there are jambs and the darkness is brewing
Well, it’s quite possible... it’s just a VAZ)))
There are almost no difficulties in selecting spare parts according to the principle “give me the pads for a Priora” - 99% of spare parts can be selected according to the car model, and if any changes occurred, then from a certain year of manufacture or a specific modification of the car. For foreign cars, an accurate selection is usually possible only by VIN due to the large number of modifications and the production of the model at different factories. For example, some Kangoo with seemingly the same engine may have different starter mounts depending on whether the car was assembled in France or Turkey. Logan sedan and Logan station wagon have different brake drums. VAG has so many modifications that only very experienced VAG drivers remember the nuances by heart. So in terms of selection at VAZ everything is quite simple. As for the applicability of spare parts from one model to another, this applies to everyone. Because there is no point in developing a new part for a model if the existing one satisfies all the requirements. Renoshniks actually built an entire crossover on a car platform - and no one seems to be complaining too much
