Replacing the rear wheel bearing of a VAZ 2110: instructions and bearing selection

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Replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ 2110 is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. This process is not required very often. The service life of an element is usually about 100 thousand kilometers, which is the minimum.

Alas, our roads do not allow us to count on such a long bearing life, so the actual terms turn out to be lower than those stated by the manufacturer.

Reasons for replacing and diagnosing wheel bearing failure

In addition to driving style and road quality, the reasons for wear are the following:

1. product quality;
2. quality of service;
3. weather conditions (at high temperatures, overheating and expansion occur, and the bearing is also susceptible to drying out of the lubricant).
4. other minor factors: serviceability of the suspension, tire profile, play in the units, alignment.

Let's look at the signs of a breakdown, there are several of them:

1. Rear noise when driving;
2. Vibration in the cabin;
3. Over time, the noise will turn into periodic grinding;
4. The wheel is loose when raised.

Similar symptoms are observed when the front hub bearings are faulty.

When Replacement May Be Required

If you hear a noise, a characteristic noise or a certain hum in the rear of your car, which only intensifies when entering a turn, this indicates an urgent need to replace the rear wheel bearing on your VAZ 2110.

Hub device

There are several ways to check the state of an element:

1. Lock the wheel in a diagonal plane. Raise the rear wheels one at a time using a jack.
2. It is recommended to lift them one at a time in order to correctly determine the source of the noise. It is not always necessary to replace two bearings at once. But if you take on one, replace the second one immediately. Fewer problems will arise in the future.
3. Spin the wheel raised on the jack by hand, as hard as you can. The higher the speed, the better. If extraneous noise or humming noises are detected when the wheel spins, the part will definitely have to be replaced.
4. If there is any doubt about the integrity of the rear wheel bearing, use the lateral play method. Grab the wheel by its edges and pull it towards you and away from you. If the bearing actually fails, the wheel will move along the axle. The movement may not be strong, but even slight fluctuations indicate the need to replace the element.

Rear wheel bearing VAZ 2110: price, dimensions, choice for replacement

After diagnostics, making sure that repairs cannot be avoided, the question of choosing a new spare part will arise. The hub is equipped with a double-row angular contact bearing, number 6-256706E1S17 (marked according to GOST).

The price of the bearing varies from 600 to 900 rubles.

Recommended bearing manufacturers

To avoid mistakes when purchasing, check the markings and sizes:

1. External landing diameter – 60 mm;
2. Internal landing diameter – 30 mm;
3. Height – 37 mm.

You can find more detailed information on this topic in the special article “How to choose a wheel bearing.”

It is important to know:

It is advisable not to purchase Chinese products; buy products from Russia, which are described above, in practice they are better. Beware of fakes, the photo shows an original wheel bearing from VPZ.

Advice:

If the roads in your city are bad, and besides, you like to drive recklessly, install a roller bearing with increased load capacity, number 537906. The only downside is that the permissible rotation speed will decrease.

All the details of replacing a wheel bearing on a Daewoo Nexia

• Shoes, stationary jack, puller, repair kit, set of keys and pliers.
• We stop at the inspection hole;
• Use a wheel wrench to remove the mounting bolts on the wheel;
• Having unscrewed the cover, we also tear off the hub nut;
• Let's jack up the car;
• Remove the wheel completely;
• From the engine compartment side, loosen the central rod nut and three auxiliary ones, but do not unscrew completely;
• Remove the hub modularly from the splines;
• Unlock the brake caliper and unscrew the two mounting nuts;
• We move it to the side for convenience and do not remove the brake hoses;
• We completely unscrew the fastening on the glass (top of the stand), remove the complex as a whole;
• We place it on a clean and level platform for further work;
• Using a heel with a diameter of no more than 3.6-3.8 cm, carefully knock out the cage with the bearing;
• If that doesn't work, use a universal puller;
• We clean the bearing location, remove the remains of old grease and metal shavings with a rag;
• If there are no defects, then lubricate the seat and, using the same puller, press the new bearing back in, making sure to lubricate it first;

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How to change the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ. First, let's prepare for repairs

We will prepare the car, as well as the tools according to the list:

• Jack;
• A driver or pipe to increase the torsional moment;
• Wrench 30, better with a head;
• A set of other keys;
• Wheel hub puller with claws (to remove the hub);
• Vise;
• Hammer and chisel;
• Round nose pliers;
• Torque wrench.

Now check out the hub design:

1 – rear axle; 2- hub body; 3- protective casing; 4 – lock pin. ; 5 – bearing; 6 – washer; 7 – nut; 8,9 – protective cap with gasket.

Place the car on a level surface, provide light, and install wheel chocks. Next, we put the first gear, and if desired, the parking brake, now we proceed to operations.

How to replace the front wheel bearing

Before starting repairs, it is better to put the car in 1st gear and install small supports under the wheels. For more comfortable work, you will need an inspection hole, since it is not easy to get to some of the mechanism’s fastenings. From the tool you need to prepare:

1. A puller to remove the bearing itself from the assembly.
2. A cut of a pipe of a certain diameter, with the help of which the hub will be knocked out.
3. Socket wrenches for 17 and 19.
4. 30mm head with a good wrench.

Don't forget to purchase new bearings from the store. It is better to give preference to original spare parts that meet all quality standards.

Methods and options

Let's start the preparatory work. They are necessary in any situation.

1. Slightly press out the wheel bolts.
2. Using a 30 mm wrench, unscrew the bearing nut. For alloy wheels, you will need to completely remove the front wheel. Press out the wheel bolt to gain access to the caliper
3. We press the caliper using a screwdriver and unscrew it from the front knuckle. Using a screwdriver we press the caliper and remove it
4. Next, remove the brake disc from the hub.

Further replacement work can take place in several ways. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Choose the one that is best for you based on the availability of the necessary equipment and tools.

1. Replacing the bearing without dismantling the steering knuckle. Its advantage is that we do not need to remove the camber adjustment bolt. But at the same time, the process itself will not be entirely convenient, and you cannot do without a good inspection hole. To knock out the hub and remove the bearing itself, you will also have to put in more effort. This method is often chosen by experienced mechanics to save some time. It requires good practical skills.
2. The second method is more convenient and is suitable even for beginners. Unlike the first, the camber adjustment will be disrupted and after replacing the front hub bearing, additional adjustment will be required. We make notches for further camber adjustment
3. The third method will take you the most time; it involves completely dismantling the front strut and replacing the bearing using a vice. To do this, you must first unpress the steering tip and remove the bolts securing the mechanism to the body.

We will dwell in more detail on the second method, since it is best suited for novice car enthusiasts:

• remove the steering knuckle by first unscrewing the two bolts on the stand and two bolts securing the lower ball joint; remove the steering knuckle by unscrewing the bolts
• using a pipe of the required diameter, we knock out the hub itself from the bearing; We knock out the bearing with a pipe of the appropriate diameter
• remove the bearing using a vice;
• We clean the seat from dirt and old grease;
• press in the bearing and secure the retaining ring; press in the bearing and install the retaining ring
• We fix the steering knuckle together with the new part on the hub;
• Further assembly is carried out in reverse order.

How to replace (video example)

Despite some difficulties, replacing a wheel bearing can be done without outside help. The main thing is to have a good inspection hole and the necessary tools. If everything is done according to technology, such repairs will take very little time.

Design features

Fundamental bearing tolerances are designated by the letters lb L. A small letter l is used for the outer race. The letter L is used to mark the small ring. The outer ring of a bearing of the sixth accuracy class is designated l6 (el 6).

The marking of 2110 roller bearings is described by GOST 3189. The marking contains letters and numbers. The designation encodes the basic characteristics of the product.

Failure to maintain alignment changes the motion of the rolling elements. The quality properties of roller bearings are reduced. The axes of the installation locations require mandatory adjustment.

Bearing 2110 is a support for the rotating mechanism. Rolling elements - short or long rollers. The rolling elements are screwed into the cages. The composition includes inner and outer rings.

The spherical roller 2110 improves the technical properties of the bearing. Roller bearings can be used in cases of significant and undistributed radial stresses. The geometry of the inner plane of the outer ring can compensate for the lack of alignment.

The outer plane of the small ring and the outer one from the inside also have running tracks. During activity, rollers move in the raceways. The work is accompanied by constant friction.

Additional design features are present in products with short rollers. They perform poorly at high speeds. Plus it has increased load capacity. Technical flaw - inability to perceive longitudinal load.

Technical requirements

The landings of large roller bearings are separated from normal and small ones in a larger direction. The seating dimensions of roller bearings 2110 are selected in accordance with GOST GOST 3325-85 (Rolling bearings). Considerable loads require the use of compressed couplings of internal races with the shaft and external ones with the frame.

The type is selected taking into account the following parameters: rotation and operating conditions. TNLA 520-2011 (Rolling bearings) defines basic and additional types of precision. But more high-precision roller bearings are in demand in special cases. Products of accuracy classes from 0 to 6 are considered very popular.

The operation of the 2110 unit in high temperature conditions requires taking into account the uneven tension between the 50 mm caliber inner race and the axle. The value of the fit increases with increasing operating temperature in the roller bearing.

Size and characteristics.

A distinctive characteristic of these products is their increased load-carrying capacity, which affects the duration between replacements.

Table of sizes and characteristics.

Tools and spare parts

Before going down into the pit, you need to prepare all the tools and materials. It should also be noted that replacing the front wheel bearings is much more difficult than doing the same work on the rear components.

Therefore, you need to start work from the front node.

A list of required tools should be provided:

• A special puller to remove the bearing;
• The so-called mandrel, that is, a pipe cut of the required size. This device is used to knock out hubs;
• Head 30, equipped with a high-quality wrench;
• Socket wrenches 19 and 17 sizes.

In addition, you need to purchase new suitable bearings that will be needed for replacement. For a VAZ 2110 car, you should choose Russian-made bearing parts rather than giving preference to Chinese analogues. The difference in price for these products is small, so there is no need to experiment.