How to replace the pump on a Lada Granta car with your own hands

The cooling system integrated into the power unit of the popular domestic bestseller Lada Granta, which has 8 valves, has a traditional design. Among the most important components of this unit is a pump. Modifications of the engines offered in terms of equipment for the Granta are endowed with the following factory designations:

  • "VAZ-11183";
  • "VAZ-11186";
  • “VAZ-21126” (similar for automatic transmission);
  • "VAZ-21127".

The pump must be replaced correctly; its selection should be made based on catalog data. Correct selection of parts is a very important aspect of engine safety, since the “safety” of the timing belt depends on the pump (its functionality). Well, which pump to choose is ultimately up to you.

Next, we will clarify the catalog code of the component in question. It looks like this: 21114-1307010-00 or 21114-1307010-01.

You can check the amount of wear of the product and the need for its replacement by manual manipulation. To do this, you can limit yourself to visual observation. If such a measure does not bring the desired result, then the element must be dismantled in order to finally verify the presence of breakage or wear. In this case, the pump needs to be replaced.

Next, let’s look at the signs the presence of which “classifies” an element as not being used:

  • noise generated by a worn bearing;
  • traces of smudges indicating damage to the seal;
  • if wear or breakage of the impeller is detected, then this fact will be confirmed by insufficient fluid circulation in the cooling circuit (temperature increase);
  • the appearance of axial play on the shaft can also reliably indicate the “death” of the bearing.

All this indicates that the pump needs to be replaced.

Differences in replacing the pump on a Lada Granta with an eight- and sixteen-valve engine

There are no major differences in the design of the eight- and sixteen-valve engines with which the Grants are equipped. Therefore, the procedure for changing the pump on these types of engines differs only in one thing: the 8-valve unit has one crankshaft pulley, and the 16-valve unit has two.

Consequently, the work of dismantling and subsequent installation of the pump on a car with a 16-valve power unit will take more time, however, the work process itself and the sequence of its implementation will be absolutely similar to the process of replacing a water pump on an 8-valve engine.

Cars of the Lada-Granta family are equipped with 8- and 16-valve engines. On all engines, the pump is located under the timing belt casing, so to remove the pump, you need to remove both the front and rear casing covers, as well as the timing belt, tensioner pulley and crankshaft pulley. The differences in the water pump replacement process between 8- and 16-valve engines include different methods for removing and installing the timing case.

To get to the Granta pump, you need to remove the timing belt cover and the belt itself

Tools

To replace the pump you will need the following tools:

  • 10mm head with ratchet and small extension;
  • open-end or socket wrench 17;
  • flat screwdriver with a wide blade.

All you need is a flathead screwdriver, a ratchet with an extension and a 10mm socket, a 17mm wrench

Before starting work, secure the vehicle with the handbrake or parking shoes, and remove the terminal from the battery. This is necessary for your safety.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the pump on cars of the Lada-Granta family

Read the instructions carefully and act in accordance with its instructions:

Drain the coolant completely. Remove the front part of the timing case. On engines 21116 and 11186 it is held on by four bolts, on 11183 by three, and on 21126 by five. Lock the piston of the first cylinder in the TDC (top dead center) position:

  • put the car in gear;
  • lift the front wheel using a jack;
  • Spin the wheel until the mark on the pulley matches the mark on the back of the timing case cover.

It is important that the mark on the pulley matches the mark on the rear casing cover

Remove the tension roller and timing belt. Remove the rear timing belt cover. Unscrew the bolts that secure the water pump. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry the pump and remove it from the engine block. Install the new pump and previously removed components in the reverse order of dismantling. When replacing the water pump, be sure to use a new gasket, even if the old one appears to be working. Pour liquid into the cooling system. Its level should be 25–30 millimeters lower than on the expansion tank. You will need about eight liters of fluid to fill the cooling system.

Video: replacing the pump on a VAZ injection engine

A properly functioning water pump will keep the engine cool. As you have seen, you can change the pump yourself

It is important to notice the malfunction in time and immediately begin to fix it. Remember, a car that is taken care of brings less trouble and more joy to its owner.

"Lada Granta" continues the best traditions of the automotive industry of the domestic plant, and therefore its design does not cause any particular difficulties in diagnostics. To identify a pump malfunction, you do not need to look at the instruction manual or contact the services of a service station specialist. There are only three signs of a water pump failure that the driver can identify on his own.

The engine started to get very hot

If the Granta, even in winter, starts to get very hot while driving, and the fan can no longer cope with cooling the engine, then this is a clear sign that the pump has failed. The thing is that the presence of coolant in the system does not yet guarantee engine cooling, since if there is no pressure, then the liquid simply will not flow to the cylinder block.

You can confirm your suspicions in a fairly simple way:

Start the engine. Wait until the engine warms up to its operating temperature. Turn on the stove.

Which kit to buy

In addition to the toothed belt, a tension roller and a coolant pump are purchased.
The main supplier of rubber products is the RTI plant in Balakovo. Products from GATES, BOSCH, DAYCO, CONTITECH have proven themselves well. If the pump in the engine cooling system is replaced, antifreeze will be needed to top it up. Yesterday one of our regular customers came to us with a recently purchased second-generation Kalina to replace the timing belt, roller and pump, plus all the fluids, but more on that in another article. This engine was also installed on the Grant, so this article will be relevant for it as well. The speedometer shows 60,000 and I believe that for this engine this is the optimal replacement interval, even though all reference books say about 75,000.

To work, we will need a set of keys and sockets, as well as a 5-point hex and a key for the tension roller. The entire procedure takes approximately one and a half hours.

The engine is similar to the eighth.

First, remove the protection, drain the antifreeze, and for convenience you can remove the right front wheel. Next, loosen the locknut of the generator belt tensioning mechanism. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the tensioner pin and remove the belt.

We unscrew the four bolts with a 5mm hexagon and remove the upper protective cover of the timing belt.

Set top dead center (TDC). We turn the crankshaft by the pulley mounting bolt clockwise until the mark on the camshaft sprocket and the timing belt protective casing coincide.

Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. We block the wheels with stops, tighten the handbrake, engage fifth gear and, with a slight movement of the wrench and a one and a half meter pipe extension, unscrew this bolt.

Remove the protective washer.

The marks on the crankshaft sprockets should be aligned with the oil pump casting.

Praise be to the designers of AvtoVAZ, finally rollers with a tension indicator appeared on the engines, now you don’t need to tighten them by eye and check the tension by twisting the belt, not even thirty years have passed since the invention of such a design. We unscrew the tension roller bolt and dismantle the latter; we also remove the old timing belt. The photo shows that the belt has stretched out because the tension marks have diverged; when checking the condition of the timing belt, if you see this, you will just need to tighten it.

To replace the pump, we need to remove the camshaft sprocket, and also unscrew several bolts of the inner casing and remove it.

Three bolts out and the pump replaced. The green arrow indicates the hole for the tension roller bolt.

Having replaced the water pump, we proceed to install a new timing belt.

We put the casing and camshaft sprocket in place. We check that all the marks match, as discussed above. We install the tension roller, but do not tighten the bolt. We put on a new belt, observing the direction of rotation, first on the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft, tension roller and pump, the latter can be swapped. We tighten the timing belt. Use a special key to turn the roller counterclockwise, as indicated on its body...

...until the marks on it coincide and tighten the bolt.

We turn the crankshaft two turns and again check the alignment of the marks and the belt tension.

We install all the parts in the reverse order of removal, fill in antifreeze and start it. It couldn't be simpler. Good luck on the roads. No nail, no rod!

Replacing the timing belt of Lada Granta 8 valves is required once every 75 thousand kilometers. If you ignore the scheduled replacement of the belt, tension roller and sometimes the pump (coolant pump), you may end up with serious repairs to the Lada Granta engine. After all, a broken timing belt almost always leads to damage to valves, valve seats and even pistons. Therefore, the timing drive must be treated very carefully. Every 15 thousand it is necessary to inspect the belt for breaks, cracks, peeling or oiling.

The advice applies to VAZ, 11186 and 21116 engines. All of them are 8-valve and are installed in Grant cars. Let's consider replacement steps.

First, remember a simple rule: the 11183 engine cannot bend its valves, so you can rotate the crankshaft and camshaft pulley separately. For motors 11186 and 21116 this would be unacceptable!

Replacing parts on different types of engines

How to change a pump on a Grant with an 8-valve or a 16-valve, there is not much difference. The algorithm described above remains unchanged, taking into account one nuance: on the “eight” the crankshaft is equipped with one pulley, on the “sixteen-valve” - two. The replacement procedures will be identical, but when working with a 16-valve engine, the car enthusiast will need more time to complete the work.

It should be noted that when purchasing a pump, you need to pay attention to what type of engine the product is intended for. The packages are marked so that the car enthusiast can choose the right part for an 8-valve and 16-valve engine, respectively.

An important component of the Lada engine is the pump or water pump of the cooling system. This model features engines with the serial index VAZ-11183, VAZ-11186, VAZ-21126 (also with automatic transmission) and VAZ-21127.

This unit should be selected according to the part numbers

After all, the Grant pump is responsible for the safety of such an important engine part as the timing belt. Pump (water pump of the cooling system) Lada Granta catalog number – 21114-1307010-00, 21114-1307010-01

You can do a self-diagnosis of the pump malfunction yourself. This will only require a visual overview of the CO water pump department. When dismantling the pump, it will be easier to find the cause of the breakdown. Determination of malfunction Grant, pump:

• Makes noise, an unusual hum of bearings in the pump section. • Leaks in the pump area indicate the need to replace the gasket. • There may also be leaks in the drainage section of the pump - this is wear on the seal. • If the pump impeller wears out/breaks, there will be poor circulation of coolant in the system. • If axial play of the pump shaft is detected, the bearing is worn out.

The water pump ensures proper circulation of coolant in the car engine

Thus, infrequent monitoring, in which you should pay attention to the coolant pump section of the Lada Granta - the pump and the units associated with it, will serve you faithfully. And your car is no longer in danger of engine overheating due to a sudden malfunction

Do not forget that the performance of the stove also depends on the quality of the pump.

Malfunctions

Water pump for car

The causes of failure can be different, for example, bearing jamming or the formation of play. Sometimes it happens that the impeller begins to spin freely, but separately from the shaft. The pump also needs to be replaced if it leaks or becomes noisy.

Life time. A lot depends on the quality of the pump. For example, a low-quality and defective pump can last only 10-15 thousand km. The service life of a high-quality part is when the Priora runs 100 thousand km. and more.

The manufacturer installs a pump on the Priora, produced by the Russian enterprise Togliatti Automotive Units Plant (TZA). It has a long service life.

Unfortunately, recently sales of counterfeit pumps from TZA have become more frequent. Is it possible to distinguish a fake so that your Priora does not suffer?

A high-quality box should contain a pump, inside the box there should be a warranty card with stamps and the date of manufacture and a gasket. It is mandatory to have a holographic sticker on the pump.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the pump on a Lada-Priora car yourself

It should be noted that it is impossible to replace the water pump on a Lada-Priora car without dismantling the engine generator drive.

Required Tools

When replacing the water pump on a Lada Priora car, you will need the following tools:

  • open-end wrenches No. o10, No. o15, No. o17;
  • spanners No. o15, No. o17;
  • Allen key No. o5;
  • two screwdrivers of different sizes;
  • a specially designed wrench for installing the tension roller or a puller for retaining rings;
  • Torx T-30 wrench used to remove the five screws that secure the front upper timing cover;
  • mounting blade.

Photo gallery: a set of tools for replacing the water pump on a Priora

The procedure consists of performing the following operations:

  1. The wire is disconnected from the negative terminal of the battery.

When starting work, the negative terminal of the battery is disconnected

The adsorber and underwater hoses are dismantled to gain better access to the water pump

It is necessary to dismantle the engine protective casing

The part is removed to gain access to the water pump

Aligning the timing belt to the marks is necessary for proper engine operation after installing all dismantled parts

Parts are removed using a special tool to gain access to the water pump

When working, you can use a screwdriver

Mounting location of the water pump on the engine

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Installation of the water pump is as follows:

  1. The tightening of the screw that locks the bearing installed in the VN housing is checked.
  2. The screw is tightened if necessary.
  3. The new pump is installed so that the product number is at the top.

The pump is installed in its place

Timing mechanism set by marks

The belt is tensioned using a tension roller using a special wrench.

The drive belt is installed in its place

Replacing the pump on a Lada Granta. 8 and 16 valve engines

Table of contents

Removing, replacing and installing the pump. You will need: a pair of screwdrivers, keys 10 and 17. First, disconnect the battery and drain the coolant. This will help get rid of unwanted consequences during dismantling. Next, follow the instructions - Lada Granta pump replacement, and also follow special notes during the dismantling and assembly process.

• Important! Set the first cylinder to TDC position. • Remove the tension roller and timing belt. After this, it is strictly forbidden to mix the crankshaft and camshaft! • Next, remove the crankshaft pulley. • Remove the rear timing cover and pump mounting bolts

• Next, remove the crankshaft pulley. • Remove the rear timing cover and pump mounting bolts.

• Using a screwdriver, carefully pry the pump and pull it out of the engine block. • Don't forget to replace the pump gasket! • Next, in the reverse order of removal, install the pump and assemble all the parts. Remember that the number on the pump should be at the top

On eight-valve versions of Grant engines, these are VAZ 11183 (82 hp) and VAZ 21116 (87 hp), very often the timing belt breaks not due to complete wear, but due to breakage of the rollers or pump as a result of a “wedge” "

The Lada Granta pump - 8 valve, in particular, has a service life of about 40-50 thousand km, with a warranty period of 1 year. To do this, you need to be attentive to all parts of your car. And also choose high-quality spare parts. The water pump catalog number is 21114-1307010.

When replacing the pump, there are fierce debates about whether it is necessary to coat the pump gasket with sealant or not; official sources at the car plant and water pump factories declare their categorical NO! But many craftsmen use this “help to strengthen” the cooling system.

The pump for Granta is installed, not to say in a very sophisticated way, but you need to pay attention to some things. For example, when dismantling it is necessary to ensure that the key does not pop out from the camshaft

And of course, you CANNOT turn the crankshaft or camshaft after removing the timing belt.

Korean-made coolant pump for VAZ-21179 engine

The owner of any elderly foreign car with a timing belt will confirm that repairmen insist that during a scheduled belt change, they replace both the pump and the pressure rollers with bearing assemblies. And these parts are often sold as a set. Moreover, at a discount - the whole set is cheaper than the belt, rollers, and pump separately.

I don’t want to once again convince you that the stingy pays twice, but over the years I have come to the conclusion that Western manufacturers include in the regulations changing the belt not because of the belt as such, but because of the pump and tensioner bearings. They just needed a reason to reliably replace the entire set of parts associated with the camshaft drive, and they found it.

I propose to do the same with our engines. Why? Formally, at each maintenance it would be necessary to remove the cover and inspect the timing belt and water pump. You can see a tear in the belt, as well as a leak on the pump. In both cases, the part is changed without delay. But this is a malfunction. And if everything is outwardly normal, the ideal option is to include preventive replacement in the regulations.

New Lada: Replacing brake discs on LADA cars

Operations to replace the water pump (pump) Lada Granta

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.2. Drain the coolant (see “Replacing the coolant in Lada Granta”).3. On VAZ-21116 and VAZ-111 engines, remove the four bolts securing the upper part of the front cover of the timing gear drive...

4. ...and remove it.

5. On the VAZ-11183 engine, remove the three bolts securing the front cover of the gas distribution mechanism drive...

6. ...and remove it.

7. On the VAZ-21126 engine, using a 5-point hex key, remove the five bolts securing the upper front cover of the timing belt

8. ...and remove it.

9. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position (see “Installing the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke on a Lada Granta car”).10. Remove the tension roller (see “Replacing the timing belt and tension roller”). WARNING After removing the timing belt, do not rotate the camshaft and crankshaft.11. Remove the camshaft timing pulleys (see “Replacing the cylinder head gasket”).12. On VAZ-21116 and VAZ-11186 engines, remove the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt...

13. ...then remove the pulley...

14. ...and a mud deflector washer installed under it.

15. Remove the three bolts securing the lower part of the front timing cover...

16. ...and remove the cover

17. On the VAZ-11183 engine, unscrew the nut and remove the bolt securing the rear cover of the timing belt...

18. ...and three bolts securing the water pump (the cover is also secured with these bolts), then remove the rear timing cover.

19. On VAZ-21116, VAZ-11186 and VAZ-21126 engines, remove the three bolts securing the water pump, as was done when removing the rear cover of the gas distribution mechanism drive of the VAZ-11183 engine (see paragraph 18).20. By inserting a screwdriver into the groove, carefully separate the pump from the block and remove it.

21. Remove the gasket from the pump.

NOTE If the gasket is still on the engine, remove it. Each time you remove the pump, replace the gasket with a new one.

22. Replace the water pump if a coolant leak is detected through the drain hole (the pump seal is damaged)…

23. ...there is noticeable axial play of the pump shaft (the pump bearing is damaged) ...

24. ...cracks, chips, and spalling were found on impeller A, toothed pulley B and pump housing B.

25. Check the tightness of the pump bearing retaining screw. Tighten the screw if necessary.

26, Install the pump in the reverse order of removal. In this case, the number on the pump should point upward.

27. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Install the camshaft pulleys with the protruding part of the hub facing the engine.

After this, check the alignment of the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley and the rear drive belt cover. Adjust the tension of the timing belt (see “Checking and adjusting the tension of the timing belt of the VAZ-11183 engine”) and fill in the coolant (see “Replacing the coolant of the Lada Granta”).

Lada Granta cars have deservedly earned a reputation as reliable and easy-to-maintain vehicles. Drivers generally speak well of this model, and besides, all the necessary procedures for restoring functions or replacing units on a Grant can be easily done with your own hands. The list of independent work also includes dismantling a failed pump.

Let's sum it up

Now you know which pump to choose the best. They strive to quickly diagnose and replace the coolant pump on LADA Granta. Use only high-quality products that will allow the assembly elements to work for a long time and correctly. Take the time to compare different products in different offers, this is a reasonable action in terms of choosing the best option.

Lada Granta 2012

    Thank you all! I am sure that this article will be very useful to owners of Lada Granta with engine 21116 installed on cars with the “norm” package. Before this article there were 3 of them, I deleted them and decided to write this one so as not to confuse the chronology of events!

    Let's start with the fact that my typewriter is one year old. This year there was little pleasant and little. I ran 31 thousand kilometers. The main mileage was in the municipal district of Kashira, Stupino, Moscow, several trips to Tula.

    I have been tormented for a long time by a strange knocking noise from the engine when cold. I didn’t cause any particular panic, as the engine warmed up and the ticking disappeared. And at 29,000 km, it stopped being felt to the touch after warming up and even made a cracking noise when starting off. Alternator, exhaust system, CV joint, front bumper and this is not a complete list of what I checked. The pump and automatic timing belt tensioner remained, they opened the cover, but did not see anything suspicious. I went to the service to see my friends with a more knowledgeable gaze. The pump said by the sound, opened the timing case and probably the timing belt runs along the pulleys. What frightened me most of all was this diagnosis, since there are no spare parts for the Lada Granta at all. I surfed the forums and Drive2, found a couple of cases where the pump was installed from the previous ones, they said that it differed only in the width of the pulley, and even then not much.

    And so it was necessary to buy:

    — Water pump 2170;

    — automatic roller tensioner of the toothed belt 2190;

    — timing belt 2190;

    To my surprise, the timing belt for Grant was in almost every store, with a roller and a pump for ambush bags, as expected, the delivery time of the order is not unknown.

    I asked the store to show the pump of the nines and the priors, I didn’t immediately notice the difference except for the width of the pulley, and I got sick from the nines.

    Why can’t you install a nine pump on the Lada Granta 21116 engine:

    If you take a quick look at the VAZ-21116 and VAZ-210914 pump, I assure you, you will not notice the difference, the VAZ-210914 pump will have a slightly different impeller and will not have a small threaded hole for tightening the case, but this is not a problem, the main difference is in the gear pulley On the VAZ-21116 engine, the pulley migrated from the previous VAZ-21126, only it became a little tighter. On the Priora, the pulley comes with rounded teeth, and on the VAZ-210914 - with rectangular ones, and even more so they are a couple of millimeters higher; by installing this pump on the VAZ-21116 engine, you will push the timing belt and last ten times less. At the time of purchase I didn’t know and bought from nine.

    Because it is not recommended to install an automatic tensioner roller on the VAZ-21116 Priora VAZ-21126 engine

    The roller that I bought from the previous Pilenga PT-P 1570s turned out to be the same by eye, with the exception of a bolt hole on the side of the motor mount. When I made my video, I realized there was a big difference! Firstly, the original skating rink 21116 is larger in diameter, and secondly, it is already there. The plastic housing of the previous roller is wider and fits against the motor, this is solved by grinding the excess with a sander or, as I did, a sander. There is another difference in one detail: the thickness of the metal body of the roller is wider than that of the Priora, and therefore if you install it from the Priora you still need to install a washer. My conclusion is not optimistic: since the roller has flaps of smaller diameter than guaranteed, it is necessary to pull it beyond the mark when stretching the roller and thereby effectively denying it the automatic adjustment range.

    Replacing the timing belt, roller and pump. Attempt No. 1

    All purchased spare parts are collected in one package:

    — automatic roller tensioner 21126 (2170) Pilenga PT-P 1570;

    — Timing belt VAZ 21116 (2190) Original 5670XS

    — Water pump VAZ-210914, TZA 21091307010-75

    Total 2540 rub.

    Previously, I myself did not have to change times; I had no time to study, and I decided to take it into service. Everything was decided there. There is a pump, there is some play, but not so critical! Why did the timing belt bend? It's not clear yet.

    The bearing is also in very good condition, as is the belt! I put the original parts in the trunk and installed new ones. I start the car and hooray! The shot went through, the belt was like a glove! I paid 2000 rubles and went home happy.

    In total, replacing consumables once cost me 4,500 rubles, thanks to the guys from AvtoVAZ.

    You probably thought that everything was fine, the pump was replaced and now the car is like new. No, no, no.

    I went home and decided to inspect the engine compartment, everything is fine, except the alternator belt is too tight, well, there is nothing to adjust the tension, check and go home (remember this point).

    In the morning he started to leave and the knocking sound appeared again, he tried to move, and then a crash followed! Disappointed, I got to work. At work I have a lot of thoughts on this topic, and then I come across a forum and pictures on the Internet! Show photos of water pumps and pulleys from Apriori and Nine and show the difference! I just have a hurricane of thoughts in my head. After work, I fly home, open the timing belt and yes. The belt is clearly jammed. On the front you can see the teeth marks.. they change again.

    Replacing the timing belt, roller and pump. Attempt No. 2

    This time I waited until the weekend; the time to find the wrong pump was Thursday. Until Saturday he had covered just over 200 km. In total I drove about 400 km. This time I decided to change everything myself. I went to the store again and bought a pump and timing belt.

    I put the parts in a bag and went home, it was a sunny day, I decided not to even take it to the garage.

    — Water pump TZA 21121307010-75

    — Timing belt VAZ 21116 (2190) Original 5670XS

    Total 1030r + 740r = 1770r.

    I will not describe the process of replacing the pump and timing belt, since there is a lot of literature on repair and operation, which, by the way, I use myself.

    What is the difference between the water pump VAZ-21116 and VAZ-21126.

    They differ only in the width of the pulley and again, slightly. The video was left to his family; he did not take any risks with Priorovsky, especially since his conditions were ideal.

    I used a flat-jaw circlip puller as a wrench to tension the roller. The time was set immediately and without problems.

    I saw from someone on Drive2 that the pump from the previous ones clings when the timing case is tightened tightly, I did not observe this, I even noticed by eye a small gap between the pump pulley and the casing.

    The engine knocks and squeaks when starting.

    We set the timings, started the engine, the belt remained in place, we clearly liked the car pump from the previous ones! =) BUT! When leaving there was a knock and a crash. the smile disappeared from his face, but appeared after 10 minutes of digging in the engine compartment! Remember, I told you to remember the moment when I loosened the tension on the alternator belt! Like! The first time I changed the timing belt at the service center, they pulled the alternator belt very tightly on me and pressed the alternator, and as a result the sound disappeared! When I got home, I relieved the tension and in the morning the sound appeared again! This is the whole mystery!

    Now the solution: my gaze was directed to the empty hole, the hole in which the lower bolt securing the generator to the bracket should sit (a long bolt), the bolt is not there! Damn, I knew I'd find out where the crackling noise was coming from and that it wasn't a design feature of the car! I began to look and understand that for some reason the bolt had unscrewed and flown off. Of course, there were sins behind me when I forgot to tighten up the details, but this happened 3-4 times in my life, it’s impossible here, since I was in no hurry and dug in search of pleasure!

    I inserted a new bolt, installed a check washer, now I think it won’t go anywhere! How did I not notice this before?! Running and quiet, the car drives like new! Wow, and she fucked me.

    There is another unsolved mystery in this article! Since the timing belt was running on the pulleys, I wouldn't say my own pump suffered much damage. Well, ok now everything works pah-pah. I live outside the city, getting to car shops by public transport is problematic, it’s good that there is a Daewoo Matiz 1.0 Best, it helps me.

    I bought it together with Grant at the same time. The mileage on the Matiz is 24,540 km, only oil and filters. Why are the Uzbeks better than us?

    In total, with all the jambs, changing the timing belt cost me 6,270 rubles. tube The car has driven only 30,000 km.

    Why are the French and Japanese silent? Renault + Nissan ayyy! Why are there no spare parts on store shelves? Why did the timing belt run along the pulleys for 30,000 km?

    Lada Granta cars have rightfully earned a reputation as reliable and easy-to-maintain vehicles. Drivers generally speak well of this model, and besides, all the procedures necessary to restore functions or replace units on the Grant can be easily carried out manually. The list of independent work also includes dismantling a failed pump.

What is needed for replacement

To carry out the work, the owner of the Lada will need:

  • socket wrench “10” and a similar socket head;
  • container for draining coolant;
  • spanner set to “17”;
  • thin flat-head screwdriver;
  • sealant;
  • new coolant (about 4-5 liters are poured into Granta);
  • rags to remove smudges.

Before starting work, read the operating manual to find out the location of the pump and its structure. Incorrect reassembly will result in damage to the coolant. If you think that you do not have enough competence to perform the actions described below, then contact professional service technicians.

Preparatory stage

Required materials and tools:

  • set of automotive tools;
  • heads, ratchet;
  • rags;
  • additional lighting;
  • screwdrivers with a flat, cross-shaped bit;
  • hydraulic jack.


Preparing for replacement

Replacing the water pump on Grant (8 valves)

The driver can change the pump on an 8-valve Lada Granta without going to a service station. The main thing is to follow the replacement instructions and, upon completion of the replacement, set the crankshaft and pulley values ​​correctly. Usually, along with the water pump, it is customary to change the timing belt.

Where is the pump located?

Since the pump is put into operation by a gas distribution mechanism, it is quite obvious that it will be built into the timing system. That is, you need to look for the location of the pump on the Lada Granta on the right side of the engine.

It is impossible to visually see the pump before removing the timing belt - only the pump pulley is visible, which is what starts the impeller into operation.


The water pump is included in the timing belt assembly

Preparing tools

To work, you will need several wrenches, standard auxiliary tools and materials:

  • wrench 10;
  • socket head 10;
  • wrench 17;
  • a screwdriver with a flat and thin blade;
  • sealant;
  • container for draining coolant (at least 10 liters);
  • rags.


Replacing the pump on a Lada Grant does not require special tools - a standard set of tools is enough

How much coolant should be drained and refilled when replacing

Regardless of the availability of time or desire of the driver, you will still have to drain the antifreeze when changing the water pump. This is necessary in order to relieve the existing pressure in the cooling system and protect yourself from possible risks. However, the main question is how much liquid needs to be drained.


Antifreeze is completely drained in 10–15 minutes

Draining can be done in two ways:

  1. Disconnect the pipes from the radiator and place a container under the drain holes. This method allows you to remove almost all liquid from the cooling system.
  2. Unscrew the plug from the expansion tank housing - no more than 5 liters of antifreeze will leak out.

New coolant should be added only after all installation work has been completed. It is recommended to make sure that the antifreeze supply and discharge hoses are tightly connected to the fittings.

Pump replacement procedure

On an 8-valve Lada Granta, changing the water pump is somewhat easier than on a 16-valve one. All actions of the owner fit into the following scheme:

  1. Drain the antifreeze.
  2. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal on the battery.
  3. Place a jack under the front right wheel and remove it.
  4. Next, unscrew the screws securing the timing case housing. Remove the casing.
  5. Loosen the timing belt tensioner roller.
  6. Reduce the tension on the alternator drive belt.
  7. Remove the timing belt and the alternator belt.
  8. Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump. It is enough to loosen the degree of compression of the metal clamp with a screwdriver, and the pipes can be easily removed. Antifreeze may leak, so it is better to place a container under the pump fittings or place a rag in advance.
  9. Remove the cover from the pump.
  10. Unscrew the nuts securing the pump to the motor wall.
  11. Pull out the pump.
  12. Immediately after dismantling, you will need to clean the flange surfaces from leakage of antifreeze and dirt deposits, and be sure to remove any residue from the rubber gasket.

Photo: work procedure when replacing a pump


It is very easy to de-energize the car to safely replace the pump - just remove the negative wire from the battery terminal

It is best to remove drive belts after they have been loosened - this will make the procedure faster


Removing the water pump is done with bare hands - just pull the pump housing and it easily comes out of the socket

After this, you can install a new one in place of the old pump. All stages of work are performed in reverse order. Before installing the water pump, it is recommended to apply a thin layer of sealant to the gasket and wait 10 minutes until it dries a little. The sealant will create additional integrity of all pump elements and extend the life of the seal.

Description and technical characteristics of water pumps DOLZ, LUZAR

The DOLZ pump is installed on Lada Granta cars with a modification of the VAZ 21116 engine. These are 8-valve units with a volume of 1.6 liters, a power of 87 horsepower, “Norma”, “Lux” equipment.

The manufacturer of the pump is Doltz, a Spanish concern that is famous for its high reliability and long service life of spare parts.

SpecificationsEquipment
Paronite gasketincluded 0.9 mm1.1 mm
ManufacturerDOLZLUZAR
Belt pulleyIn stockIn stock
Price1200850
Number of teeth2121
Warranty cardIn stockIn stock
Type of packagingPolyethylenePolyethylene
MarkingOriginal number on the pulley, housingOriginal number on the case
ImpellerAluminum, six-blade, plastic coated, two mounting holesAluminum, seven-blade, three mounting holes
Impeller diameter63.264
Pulley width2427
Distance to seat5054
Roller bearing outer diameter2830
Bearing width3738
Bearing typeDouble row, ballBall roller
Roller diameter4.44.8
Length of one roller8.412.0
Ball diameter6.46.3
Seal typeceramicsceramics

Reinforced pump Luzar for Lada Granta 2190

Luzar Turbo 2 is a high-power water pump for the Lada Granta. The average cost in the Russian Federation is 650 – 750 rubles, depending on the place of purchase. Pump flow rate at 800 rpm is 900 l/h. The unit runs 95 – 120 thousand km.

The installation of a turbo version of the pump is explained by the fact that the engines of the Lada line are prone to rapid boiling and an increase in operating temperature.

The temperature increases according to the following scheme: the car moves at high speeds on the road. A sudden stop at a traffic light provokes a rise in temperature, heat stroke, and boiling of antifreeze.

CharacteristicIndicators
MaterialPoly Phenylene Sulfide
Strengthup to 210 M Pa
Elasticityup to 21,000 M Pa
Impact resistanceup to 51 kJ/m2
Stability under loadYes
Performance-60 to +220℃
Resistance to hydrolysis0,03%
Low shrinkageYes

Signs and causes of failure

You can identify a broken part by the following signs:

  • insufficient circulation of coolant and, as a result, frequent overheating of the engine;
  • hum of bearings at the pump mounting location;
  • presence of smudges at the pump mounting location.

These markers indicate the most likely causes of malfunctions in the Grants pump:

  • bearing wear or damage;
  • damage to the seal;
  • worn sealing gasket;
  • broken pump impeller.

In most cases, the part becomes unsuitable for major repairs and requires a complete replacement. Ignoring pump problems leads to replacing the timing belt and replacing components of the connecting rod and piston group. Valves and bearings may also need to be replaced.

Price issue

Replacing the pump on a Grant will not significantly impact the car owner’s budget. The cost of a new part is in the range of 1000-2000 rubles. For a thousand you can order a “native” pump produced by AvtoVAZ. Closer to the upper price threshold are expensive foreign-made analogues with an increased resource. The average service life of a new pump is 150,000-170,000 kilometers.

Element malfunctions

The pump consists of several elements that ensure its operation. In particular:

You can determine the malfunction of a part by ear. Pay attention to noise from the timing belt. If you hear a rumble, then the reason may lie in this element. In addition, when the pump fails, the cooling of the car sometimes worsens, which automatically leads to increased overheating. Let's look at the main list of breakdowns that can plague the pump:

  1. Autonomous rotation of the impeller.
  2. The appearance of backlash.
  3. Bearing wedge.
  4. Element leakage.

In addition, it is recommended to replace the part after reaching certain mileage indicators. The standard is 100,000 kilometers. However, low-quality parts can hardly withstand 10,000 - 15,000 kilometers, so it is not recommended to save too much on the pump. Next, we’ll talk about which manufacturers’ products are worthy of attention.

How to replace the pump on a Lada Granta car with your own hands

Lada Granta cars have deservedly earned a reputation as reliable and easy-to-maintain vehicles. Drivers generally speak well of this model, and besides, all the necessary procedures for restoring functions or replacing units on a Grant can be easily done with your own hands. The list of independent work also includes dismantling a failed pump.

Why do you need a pump in a car?

The power unit of any vehicle works in close connection with the cooling system. Constant circulation of antifreeze (or antifreeze) through the system ensures proper cooling of the engine and protects the rubbing parts of the engine from overheating. Accordingly, if there were no cooling system, the motor could not be considered a working unit - at the first load it heats up to a critical temperature and boils.

The operation of the cooling system fits into a simple scheme:

  1. The driver pours antifreeze into the expansion tank.
  2. After the engine starts, antifreeze begins to flow into the pump cavity.
  3. From there, the fluid under pressure is directed to the radiator device and to the cylinder block.

Accordingly, the pump in this scheme plays the role of pumping equipment, which ensures the continuous supply of coolant to the engine.

The device is made of hard metal alloys, which allows you to extend the service life of all moving and rubbing parts of the pump

On the Lada Granta, the pump starts when the engine is ignited. The pump itself is part of the gas distribution mechanism: its impeller blades will rotate as long as the pulley rotates through the timing belt.

Signs of a pump malfunction on a Lada Granta car

"Lada Granta" continues the best traditions of the automotive industry of the domestic plant, and therefore its design does not cause any particular difficulties in diagnostics. To identify a pump malfunction, you do not need to look at the instruction manual or contact the services of a service station specialist. There are only three signs of a water pump failure that the driver can identify on his own.

The engine started to get very hot

If the Granta, even in winter, starts to get very hot while driving, and the fan can no longer cope with cooling the engine, then this is a clear sign that the pump has failed. The thing is that the presence of coolant in the system does not yet guarantee engine cooling, since if there is no pressure, then the liquid simply will not flow to the cylinder block.

You can confirm your suspicions in a fairly simple way:

  1. Start the engine.
  2. Wait until the engine warms up to its operating temperature.
  3. Turn on the stove.
  4. If only cold air begins to come out of it, then the circulation of antifreeze in the system is disrupted. Most likely, the problems are associated with severe wear of the pump impeller blades, and therefore you need to replace the pump with a new one as soon as possible.

Instrument readings in the cabin indicate that the engine is very hot - this is a reason to look under the hood and check the condition of the pump

Timing belt wears unevenly

Often drivers, having decided to change the timing belt, are surprised to notice that it is worn out on only one side. Of course, this is not normal for the operation of a rubber product - the timing belt design is designed for uniform planned wear of each part.

The timing belt rubs on one side due to the fact that the bearings on the pump shaft are loose. Accordingly, if there is asymmetrical wear on the timing belt, this indicates that the pump is about to fail. Usually, if the bearings become loose, the driver hears a loud crunching or banging sound from under the hood while driving.

Even after a short period of operation, the belt will begin to wear out on only one side if the pump bearings are worn out.

Pump leaking

Even a high-quality water pump cannot last forever. Therefore, over time, the pump seal (the most vulnerable component of the pump) will begin to wear out and, as a result, leak. And an antifreeze leak in the timing belt area clearly indicates that the pump has lost its tightness and is no longer performing its function to the required extent. Of course, if the leak is small, then the car can be used for now, since the system will still provide engine cooling. However, at any moment the oil seal can completely break through, and all the antifreeze will flow out of the crankcase.

In some cases, water pump leaks are observed not only due to the wear-out of the oil seal, but also due to improper installation of the rubber seal when replacing the pump.

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