How to replace and repair the rear wing on a VAZ 2114

The VAZ 2114 is a restyling of the five-door hatchback VAZ 2109, the model was produced until 2013 by the Volzhsky Automobile Plant and continued the Samara-2 family. Unlike its predecessor, the fourteenth model received an update in the front part of the body: a modified radiator grille, bumper, and moldings. The power unit was supplemented with a new engine from the VAZ 2111 line.

The rear wing of the VAZ 2114 is not a frequent consumable; the part must be replaced after mechanical damage during an accident, if there is a metal rupture. Unlike the front fender and sills, the rear wheel arch and fender as a whole are not so affected by corrosion; the element is more protected from water and dirt. The first repairs using the VAZ 2114 rear wing repair insert begin three years after purchasing a new car.

How to prepare a car and what tools are needed

Before starting a full-fledged repair, it is necessary to prepare the cars, select the necessary tools for dismantling, installation and related work. The rear fenders are installed on the body by spot welding; to replace them, the part must be cut out from the car. The front part is installed with self-tapping screws from the manufacturer's factory.

1. The car is installed on an overpass or other flat surface, preferably above floor level. If this is not possible, then you need to jack up the car.
2. The battery is removed.
3. When replacing, the bumper and trim are removed.
4. Before removing the front bumper, the fog lamp terminals are disconnected.

To dismantle the bumper you will need the following tools:

• Phillips screwdriver, flat;
• set of wrenches;
• knife;
• pliers;

If repairs are required, you should prepare an anti-corrosion kit, automotive primer, and auto enamel. To dismantle the rear wing you will need:

• chisel with a sharp edge;
• Sander;
• sandpaper R-80;
• semi-automatic welding;
• anti-corrosion mastic, primer;
• putty, set of spatulas;
• auto enamel.

Rear wings are considered difficult to repair and replace parts for the VAZ 2114. When replacing an element, it is recommended to carefully inspect the part and replace it partially if there is a small defect. Original repair kits offer both a solid element and repair inserts. The price of an original complete replica of the front wing starts from 2,500 rubles, the rear from 7,000. Replacing part of a replica with a complete element is easier and cheaper.

Kinds

Types of overlays for VAZ arches are:

1. Plastic. Made from durable ABS plastic and polystyrene.
2. Rubber. Made from heat-resistant rubber.
3. Fiberglass. Rigid material, it is inferior in characteristics to ABS plastic.

Depending on the presence or absence of paint coating on their surface, the arched amplifier can be:

1. Painted in any color, glossy, matte.
2. Unpainted. The parts are ready for putty and further painting.

Algorithm of actions

Dismantling and subsequent insertion of the front wing takes up to 1 hour, even for inexperienced craftsmen. It is important to perform the entire sequence of actions correctly:

1. Unscrew the two nuts in the bumper fasteners and lower the edge of the bumper down.
2. Remove the outer part of the sill trim.
3. Remove the headlight cover.
4. Remove the turn signal from the headlight.
5. Remove the side turn signal.
   

   To quickly remove the side turn signal, you need to squeeze the latch, disconnect the block, pull out the block with the socket and the light bulb, and push the socket inside.

6. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the self-tapping screw that secures the part to the bracket.
7. Unscrew the screws under the threshold, two bolts that secure the part to the rack, they are located on the inside.
8. Unscrew the 4 bolts that connect the element and the front part of the body.
9. Using a knife, cut off the sealant on which the wing is mounted on its top shelf on the body.

Repair kit

If you need to replace the rear left wing of a VAZ 2114, which has significant deformation, it is recommended to purchase a complete repair kit, which includes two sidewall panels, moldings, bolts, and inserts. The number that the AvtoVAZ manufacturer uses for its repair kits for 2114 is 21090-5401065-00. In addition to the main enterprise, parts for the Lada are produced by companies and experimental workshops:

• Nachalo software;
• Kamaz (Naberezhnye Chelny).

All replicas are supplied in original packaging; parts are made from black steel up to 0.8 mm thick. The part must be covered with transport primer.

Repair insert

If there is a need to replace not a whole wing, but a part of it, then it is recommended to use repairs: the wheel arch of the front and rear wing, moldings. Repair inserts are installed in factory locations. The replica parts are made of industrial steel, with a maximum wheel arch thickness of 1 mm.

Original body parts are manufactured by AvtoVAZ and Kamaz, they are treated with shipping primer and are intended for painting. The cost of a repair insert for one wing is from 120 rubles. The price of the rear side panel starts from RUB 3,000.

Features of the material

One of the main materials from which fender linings for VAZ cars are made is ABS plastic. It is used due to its optimal characteristics:

• Plastic. A product made of ABS plastic can change its shape when heated without changing its performance properties. For example, if the expander does not fit tightly to the wing due to some kind of defect (convexity, concavity), then it is enough to heat it with a hair dryer so that it takes the desired shape.
• Flexibility. A fender made of ABS plastic or polystyrene can be bent without fear of it breaking. The universal trim is easy to install on wheel arches of any diameter.
• Softness. In many cases, when installing the lining, it is necessary to adjust the length, i.e., cut it. This can be easily done with a simple knife or hacksaw. To make the cut area look neat, just wipe it with a piece of waffle towel soaked in acetone.

Metal extensions on VAZs are used quite rarely; they are made to order for a specific model and are not produced as standard.

Sources

• infokuzov.ru/tuning/vaz-nakladki-na-krylya
• drive2.ru/l/476117947836793148/
• zen.yandex.ru/media/id/5af8214d77d0e67253a8095d/chem-skryt-rjavchinu-na-arkah-vaz-2113-2114-2115-5afc23f31410c328647ca46b

How to remove the rear wing

The rear wing on the VAZ 2114 is attached to the load-bearing parts of the body by spot welding. Dismantling and replacement require skills in welding and the presence of a semi-automatic welding machine to install a new element. If the rear fender has a significant dent from an impact, the metal will need to be pulled out before dismantling and cutting. Dismantling process step by step:

1. Prepare the car: remove the battery, bend the carpet.
2. Empty the trunk.
3. Unscrew the rear bumper and disconnect the headlight unit. If the right rear is to be replaced, then the fuel tank must be removed.
4. Remove the seal.
   

   If you are making a cut for a repair insert, then you need to remove the side glass: pull out the rubber seal and press out the glass. During installation, the seat is processed and the old sealant is cut out.

5. Using a thin chisel or machine, cut out the old part, retreating 1-1.5 cm from the joint.
6. Drill out the welding points with the frame cross member.
7. Disconnect the part.
8. Cut off the remaining metal, grind it, straighten the edge.
9. Attach a new part, secure with spot welding, check the gaps.
10. Weld by contact welding, in increments of 4-5 cm.

At the final stage, the part is primed, treated with anti-corrosion agent and painted to match the body color.

Linings for wing arches of VAZ 2115

Tuning... and a wide smile... :))

Blog... come on. I moved it from the blog to the logbook, that’s more accurate.

I decided to share my experience of installing linings on the wing arches. When I decided to do it, I couldn’t find almost anything useful for myself on the Internet (I didn’t search well), hence some difficulties.

For the story and for the seemingly technical solutions, don’t blame me, I’m not a pro and not even an amateur :))

Preliminary preparation.

My wing arches are quite, that is, in decent condition, except for the driver's front (the edge to which the fender liner is attached has practically fallen off). Immediately after purchase, the machine was very well processed. I bought it in January 2005, in the showroom :))

But, in a circle, although not much, the paint swells (only around the fender liners). My opinion: these protective fender liners are the cause of corrosion, which starts from the attachment points, IMHO.

In general, we clean the farm from dirt and rust. Used: skins, rust converter, applied epoxy primer, Movil

Overlays.

I bought it for my 14, something like in the photo from the Internet,

the pads are something like this

At the car market for 400 rubles, for painting. Retreat.

I will write - as I would do now, having some experience, but with a commentary - as it really was.

• First. Why the main problems are the GEOMETRY and SIZES of the overlays, Therefore, try on and try on so that they fit according to the max, But this is not always possible (for example, the seller will not allow you to choose) I took the first ones I came across, tightly wrapped in tape... Not a single one hit the mark place. Let me note that you can make a mistake and confuse the left with the right, especially considering that the geometry and dimensions turned out to be INCORRECT.
• Second. CUSTOMIZE first and then PAINT. Your humble servant did the opposite. First I painted it. About painting. I used a can of HOLEX - 220 rubles (after painting there was a lot left), instead of primer, gray paint for HI-Gear bumpers (was), KUDO varnish - 150 rubles (easy to apply, hard to put on the snot) There are no plans to polish. I adjusted the already painted ones to the place. The rear ones were sawed out and ground down (they turned out to be somehow much shorter and the bend was steeper) The front ones: the left one is longer, the right one is shorter, the bend is normal (almost)
• Third. Main. We have painted and fitted overlays. Need to glue...

What I found on the Internet is that polyurethane adhesive-sealant is well suited for these purposes; I bought KRASS glue at a hardware store for about 500 rubles.

adhesive sealant

In stores there is polyurethane adhesive for gluing car windows, it’s cheaper and maybe it’s better! It didn’t occur to me right away...

Applying it in place, I outlined it with a pencil, then MATTED it with fine sandpaper (r600-r1000, whatever it was). The difficulty is the edge of the mating, you must not go beyond the boundary of the outline.

I couldn’t glue it right away, the glue took quite a long time to dry and I don’t know how to press it (someone in a similar situation, in a garage, pinned it with sticks against the walls :)) After scratching the back of my head, I found a solution, albeit a banal one: I decided to use good double-sided tape.

I bought (I don’t remember, about three hundred or a little more than two hundred rubles) 10 meters long, 12 mm wide and 1.1 mm thick, which is not enough. I had to lay it in four layers, because the linings have a recess on the inside (it’s not the same, it’s slightly different on different linings)

So. Four layers of tape ON THE TOP EDGE, below (squeezed out with a gun) LOOP, 15-20 mm wide polyurethane GLUE-SEALANT.

Ha! With this composition, the linings are perfect! I secured it from below with a temporary self-tapping screw and some masking tape. Let it dry.

There's probably an ambush waiting here :)) The edges of the pads don't really fit and want to come off. I have. relatively, two or three such edges fit tightly.

Later, I managed to glue ONE edge with POXIPOL (another 230 rubles). Others were pressed with force and I decided not to suffer...

In general, the resulting small (1.5-2.5 mm) cracks were later filled with the same polyurethane, so that dirt, salt, water would not get into these cracks and, as a result, these labor-intensive linings would not begin to tear off from these places :))

Fourth. Last thing :))

To eliminate or at least reduce the likelihood of tearing off. In addition to gluing the edges, I PAINTED the junction of the trim and the wing (the upper edge) with a very small brush with the paint that the trims are painted with. All!

rear right

rear left

PS The price, in general, is rising