Window regulators - everything you wanted to know, but were embarrassed to ask. Part 2. Types of window lifter designs. Russian know-how


In modern cars, whether foreign or domestic cars, electric window lifting mechanisms are installed, which facilitate the operation of the car and allow you to spend a minimum of effort on closing or opening the window. Such devices may differ in design and are designed for doors depending on their location (front/rear, left/right). The main element is the drive, which provides the transmission of torque for the movement of the glass, and lifting is carried out using a special device that transforms the rotation of the roller into a translational movement.

Such a device may differ in design, and rack and pinion windows are a popular type of mechanism that is distinguished by its reliability and improved quality. Not all cars have them installed initially, but if you wish, you can select electric windows of this type for any model and modification of the car.

Replacing a window regulator on a VAZ-2110

At the moment, the VAZ-2110, a domestic car model, still maintains a leading position in the market, remaining popular and in demand.
This car is practical, has good dynamics and a cozy, quite comfortable interior atmosphere. But this pretty car has a number of technical shortcomings, which, if you don’t know how to eliminate them yourself, can negate all the advantages of the model. One of the minuses of the dozen is that the window regulators quickly fail.

It would seem such a simple detail, but when it becomes inoperative, it destroys the entire ideal pyramid of comfort, because how can you drive in the stifling heat if you can’t open the window properly?

Today we will talk about how you can replace the window regulators on a VAZ-2110 with your own hands, and possibly repair it. So, let's go.

A window lifter is a device used to move window glass and hold it at the desired point. Currently, the range of window lifters is quite wide, it includes not only many brands, but also differences in target orientation:

  • front doors
  • rear doors
  • left doors
  • right doors.

Moreover, the design for each device will be different. But in each of the listed cases there are common points; each window regulator consists of:

  • grooves installed on the inside of the door frame, the purpose of which is to hold the glass sheet at a certain point
  • “rails”, which are statically fixed in the door body and act as guides for the movement of glass
  • seal, damper, made of soft rubber, limiting the movement of the glass sheet up and down.

In addition, any type of window regulator consists of two main components:

  • lifting mechanism
  • drive unit.

There are two types of drive:

  • Mechanical - consists of a simple set of parts, a pair of gears and a handle. In order to set the glass sheet in motion, you need to turn the handle clockwise (if you need to raise the glass) or counterclockwise (if you need to lower it). Physical forces are transferred to the drive roller, that’s the whole principle of operation of the mechanical device.
  • Electrical is a more complex set of parts. An electric window regulator consists of a drive drum or gear and an electric motor with a built-in worm-type gearbox.

According to the lifting mechanism, window lifters are divided into several types. Moreover, in AvtoVAZ cars there are different design options for window lifters.

So, the well-known seven is equipped with a rack-and-pinion type device; by the way, the “ten” also has rack-and-pinion window lifters.

This option is good because it is easy to repair and easy to operate, but a serious disadvantage of the design is its unreliability. In addition, the rack-and-pinion type of device requires lubrication.

A more advanced design is the cable type, presented in the tenth VAZ model.

The positive point here is the fact that the possibility of glass distortion is completely eliminated. But, like rack and pinion mechanisms, cable mechanisms are also unreliable.

Although the price for them is not so high, window regulators made of galvanized metal, which cost about 400 rubles, and Metprom devices, which cost 300 rubles, enjoy a good reputation.

A standard cable window lift costs less, 250 rubles.

The new generation of mechanisms are lever ones that operate using hinges.

Their advantage is the absolute absence of noise, but this type of device only works in conjunction with an electric motor, while the first two can also be presented in a mechanical version.

The tenth model is equipped with two types of window lifters: simpler modifications of previous years come with mechanics, and modifications of later years of production come with electric windows.

But since owners of the old ten are more common among motorists, then we will next talk about how to replace a mechanical window regulator yourself, but first we will understand the most common faults of window regulators characteristic of the VAZ-2110.

By the way, the electric window lifter changes in exactly the same way; all the grooves and fastenings are similar and will fit easily.

  1. What most often happens in the top ten is the grinding of the lift gear, which makes the device inoperative.
  2. The second reason is a cable break, which disrupts the entire system.

Problems can be solved by dismantling the device and replacing defective parts, or by completely replacing the window regulator, which would be a more correct and simpler option. Now let's get to work.

Possible device problems

Such elements become unusable relatively rarely, and the following signs may indicate that the mechanism requires the help of a mechanic:

  • The movement of the glass is too slow, the feeling that its movement has become too tight.
  • The window is not closed completely: there is a gap between the top edge and the frame.
  • When you press the button, the car window remains in its original position.

As a rule, rack and pinion lifts break when the gear teeth wear out: in this case, you can observe malfunctions of the mechanism, slowdown in raising or lowering the glass. Expensive products usually do not have such a malfunction or it happens much less often. Also, the teeth of the gear may break: this happens if a low-quality model of the device or a mechanism with a plastic part was installed (their service life is 3-4 times less than for metal analogues).

It is not always possible to repair the rack and pinion mechanism of the window lifter on your own, and the best solution is to turn to professional craftsmen. If help from a mechanic is not possible at the moment, it is worth checking the following equipment items when malfunctions occur:

  • Serviceability of fuses (if they burn out, which occurs due to a short circuit, the device stops working).
  • Functionality of buttons, condition of contacts and wiring.
  • Location and condition of the guides: If the windows go down and up too slowly, the reason may be that these elements are misaligned or lack of lubrication.
  • If problems occur with only one door, then the switch could have failed; The defect also occurs due to poor-quality contacts or a broken signal cable.
  • Another common defect is deformation of the slats: this happens if its design does not have proper rigidity. The element can be bent either by a running motor or by an unintentional mechanical force applied to the door (for example, a clap when closing sharply).

To eliminate such malfunctions, you will need to disassemble the casing, dismantle the window regulator and disassemble it, and, if necessary, replace broken or worn parts. If the problem cannot be fixed on your own, it is better to contact the service.

The device of the VAZ window regulator of the tenth model

The design of the window lifters on the VAZ 2110 will be different depending on whether the device is for the front or rear doors.

But despite this, each of them has certain details in its structure:

  1. Grooves that are located on the inner plane of the door frame. These components are designed to hold the glass directly in one position or another.
  2. The so-called rails. These components are mounted in the door body. They are used as guide components for moving glass.
  3. Directly sealing element made of soft rubber, which allows you to limit the movement of glass in the up and down directions.
  4. Lifting device.
  5. Window lift drive.

Operating principle of rack and pinion window

The operation of these devices is relatively simple. The motor of the mechanism generates torque and transmits it to the rail, due to which the carriage that fixes the glass on it moves in the desired direction (top/bottom). Thus, the rotational impulse turns into linear movement.

This principle allows for high speed of work, and the parts themselves break less than in the case of cable structures. The application allows you to get rid of glass distortions while driving: some device models are additionally equipped with guide elements for this purpose. The glass is attached using a carriage or without adapters: this depends on the design features of a particular product.

Repair

It is not possible to repair window regulators in all cases. Mostly, these glass lifting devices can be repaired in case of obvious mechanical fractures of the elements.

But we can still give some useful tips regarding restoring the functionality of the window regulator without replacing it.

  1. If the electric window motor fails to work, then the brushes or winding are most likely to blame. To verify this and fix the damage, you need to remove the motor, disassemble it and clean the outer and inner surfaces.
  2. For cleaning, it is recommended to use a lint-free cloth. The cloth is soaked in gasoline, alcohol or a special cleaning agent. When you buy the latter, you can use it for a long time, the efficiency is higher compared to gasoline.
  3. After cleaning and drying the parts, it is recommended to treat the moving elements with lubricant so that the mechanisms function longer.
  4. If the cable comes off the lifting mechanism, you will have to dismantle it, remove the electric motor, or unwind the cable if it is mechanical. Then the cable is pulled back onto the grooves and the assembly is reassembled.
  5. If a malfunction occurs in the mechanism or the electrical circuit of the device, it is necessary to study this circuit, determine the direction of the wires, and then ring them. This is the most effective way to check for electrical failure.


Lifting device diagram
Repair in most cases gives only a temporary result, so soon you will still have to make a full replacement. This is due to the fact that each part has its own service life and degree of wear. When they are reached, the window regulator stops working.

Replacing or repairing mechanical or electrical window regulators cannot be called complex undertakings. It is quite possible to cope with such tasks with your own hands.

Withdrawal procedure

  1. To access the window regulator, remove the door trim.
  2. Special bolts are used to secure the glass frame. Lower the glass so that the mounting bolts are accessible through the top hole of the door. You need to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the glass frame to the window lifter slider.
  3. Using your hands, lift the glass all the way up and jam it in the upper position.

At the same time, lower the window lifter slider down until it stops.
5. On the front door, you need to unscrew the 4 nuts securing the guide and the 3 nuts securing the window lift mechanism itself.

6. On the rear door, you need to unscrew the 2 nuts securing the guide and 3 nuts securing the window lift mechanism.

7. The window regulator is removed through the technological hole in the door.

Electrical work

Remember that using a power window fuse can protect all important components from short circuits.

The electrical setup procedure looks something like this:

  1. The electric motor must be supplied with voltage directly from the battery. In this case, the rotor should rotate and the entire mechanism should rise up. And you need to wait for the moment when the holes in the fasteners of the mechanism are aligned with those located on the glass carriages. Only after this can the glass be fixed.
  2. If there is no wiring (the installation of ESP is not provided for by the manufacturer), then it must be laid through the technological holes that are located in the door and body. You need to run wires to the instrument panel.
  3. You can place the control buttons in any convenient place, but it is best to place them in the door handle. But on domestic cars they are more often installed in the cigarette lighter area or near the handbrake.
  4. All moving parts of the electric drive must be lubricated - a CV joint type compound is suitable.
  5. Apply voltage to the entire system through the power window fuse and check operation.
  6. If there are no faults, you can install the casing and recheck.

The article shows a wiring diagram for the power window button. It is recommended to switch all power circuits using relays to maintain the integrity of the buttons.

What is ESP

An electric window lifter (ESW) is installed in the inner cavity of the door, fixed to its body or subframe. It consists of three main parts:

  • drive mechanism (gearmotor);
  • control systems;
  • lifting mechanism.

The drive mechanism creates the force necessary to move the glass. It is a small unit that combines an electric motor, gear and worm gears. Such a device provides blocking in the event of an attempt to mechanically press the glass in the opposite direction. A lifting mechanism, which can be a cable, lever or rack, is responsible for moving the glass.

Cable

This type of window lifter is essentially a flexible element: different manufacturers offer their own versions - it can be a chain, cable or toothed belt. The cable is tensioned inside the door between the rollers, and its movement is ensured by the drive drum.

Cable glass lift

When the drum rotates, the cable is set in motion - one end unwinds and the other winds up. The flexible chain is connected to the glass by a plate.

Differences between types of window regulators

Thus, a “tens” window lifter of the mechanical type is a system of cables, rollers and gears, which, according to a kinematic diagram, work to raise and lower the glass, carried out by turning the handle of this mechanism. This is clearly demonstrated by the diagram of the VAZ 2110 window regulators, which can be viewed on our resource.

The factory electric window lifter of the VAZ 2110 is installed on models that are equipped with additional options, while the electric window lifter buttons are located on the decorative trim of the floor covering tunnel. If the new car is not equipped with this option, you can install it yourself.

  • cable (standard type on VAZ 2110);
  • rack and pinion;
  • plank.

Among all types of ESP, there are certain differences in the speed modes of operation for raising and lowering the glass, the degree of noise during operation of the mechanism and resistance to low temperature conditions. However, all these modifications are adapted for installation in standard locations of window regulators.

If we consider the VAZ 2110 window lifter, the price of which is set in the range of 3-3.5 thousand rubles, then you should opt for products from Forward or Granat.

So, before you do anything, you will first need to remove the front door trim. Then, lowering the glass to the required height (so that the bolts securing it to the rail become accessible), unscrew everything with a 10mm head, as shown in the photo:

And the glass can be raised as high as possible so that it does not create problems when dismantling the window regulator. After this, unscrew all the nuts securing the VAZ 2110 electric window, which are shown in the photographs below:

  1. Top rack mount
  2. Bottom mount
  3. Three lift nuts

Now you can stick your hand into the hole in the door and disconnect the plug with wires from the motor:

Now you need to move the rail together with the mechanism (motor) all the way back, that is, to the back of the door. The result of the work done is clearly shown below:

And then we carefully try to remove the entire structure through the upper hole in the door.

When installing, follow the reverse sequence.

In terms of cost, I can only give an approximate price, and it is about 500 rubles for the motor and about another hundred for the rack and cable.

  • Replacing the front door side glass
  • Cleaning and washing the throttle assembly
  • How to remove the front door trim
  • Replacing the rear wheel bearing
  • Replacing the rear hub axle

2 comments on “How to remove a window regulator”

Good material. It’s a pity that I didn’t say so from the very beginning. And yet, after watching the video, I decided not to go there. Thanks to the author of the video.

I had to change the electric window lifter motor on a VAZ 2112, right door. Having seen that the window lifter was on a cable, I tried and succeeded in the following: Without unscrewing the window lifter mechanism itself, I unscrewed the 3 nuts securing the electric motor. Then, moving the electric motor aside so that the pins would come out of the door body, I removed the lower pin along with the plastic base, pulling it down along the motor body. After that, I bent the electric motor to the right, since the cable allows this, and unscrewed the remaining 2 studs by hand. And having pulled the electric motor from the gear on the cables, he took out the electric motor. I reassembled it in reverse order. It may not be very convenient, but there is no need to unscrew and lower the glass too much. It will lower slightly when the studs are aligned when installing the electric motor into the gear.

Description of the lot

Attention! Beware of fakes! From us you can purchase ONLY ORIGINAL ESP “Forward”!

Rack and pinion electric windows "Forward" for Lada Kalina, Granta (VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119, 2190) (front doors) New!

Completeness:

Electric window lifter with motor reducer, front right – 1 pc.

Electric window lifter with motor reducer, front left – 1 pc.

Additional guide – 2 pcs.

Adapter plate – 2 pcs.

Lock washer – 6 pcs.

Decorative plug complete with fastener and self-tapping screw – 2 pcs.

Specifications:

Window drive type: electric

Mechanism type: rack and pinion

Current consumption at rated force: no more than 8 A

Operating temperature range: -45. +70 °C

MTBF: at least 30,000 glass up/down cycles

Nominal force for raising/lowering glass: 12 kgf

Permissible force for raising/lowering glass: 20 kgf

Installation

Now we replace the defective unit with a new one and carry out the assembly work in the reverse order. But if the glass is removed completely, it is necessary to carefully adjust its position afterwards by moving the bolts in the mounting holes.

It should also be taken into account that during dismantling, the holders, also called pistons, may be damaged, so it is better to buy a set of new ones just in case, in order to avoid troubles.

When installing the lift handle, you need to make sure that it is seated tightly enough. If this does not work, then you should wrap it with electrical tape.

Installation of power windows on a VAZ 2109

On cars 2108-09-099, installing a front power window is also quite simple; as an example, let’s take the installation of a strip-type ESP (manufactured by Granat).

We carry out the work as follows:

  • disassemble the door, remove the window handle, lock, door trim;

  • unscrew the screws securing the glass from the MSP, remove the mechanical lift;

  • unlike the VAZ classic window lifters, there is no need to re-drill anything here, everything fits in its standard places;
  • to align the holes of the glass and lift fastenings, we supply power to the ESP wires;

  • then install the buttons (can be fixed on the instrument panel, in the center);
  • connect the wires according to the diagram;

  • we check the operation of the mechanism - if everything is in order, we assemble the door, at this point the installation of the VAZ 2109 window lifter can be considered complete.

We check the quality of work

As you can see, this work is not at all difficult, it can be done independently, saving a lot of money on a car service, which will charge you a tidy sum for it.

In addition, since we had to remove the door trim, we can also carry out sound insulation, which in the Lada Kalina is also not at the highest level.

At the end, a small bonus on how to make the power windows work without the ignition.

Other lots from the seller

Electric windows “Forward” Lada Kalina, Granta (front)

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 5 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]