An article with step-by-step photos and video instructions on how to independently replace the window regulator on the front doors of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 cars.
Each window regulator is stamped with the vehicle model number and part number. The last two digits indicate: 10 – right door; 11 – left door.
Withdrawal procedure
- To access the window regulator, remove the door trim.
- Special bolts are used to secure the glass frame. Lower the glass so that the mounting bolts are accessible through the top hole of the door. You need to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the glass frame to the window lifter slider.
- Using your hands, lift the glass all the way up and jam it in the upper position.
At the same time, lower the window lifter slider down until it stops.
5. On the front door, you need to unscrew the 4 nuts securing the guide and the 3 nuts securing the window lift mechanism itself.
6. On the rear door, you need to unscrew the 2 nuts securing the guide and 3 nuts securing the window lift mechanism.
7. The window regulator is removed through the technological hole in the door.
How to install a window regulator on a VAZ 2104
From the very beginning of production of the VAZ-2107 until the very end of production of the model in the 21st century, exclusively manual window lifters were installed on it. Automatic (electric) ones were installed only starting with the VAZ-2110 model and newer ones.
At the same time, there were several types of manual window lifters:
Their peculiarity is that their gears are made of plastic, as a result of which the mechanism wears out extremely quickly, and in addition, its device requires more space, lubrication and maintenance. The undoubted advantage of such lifts is that glass distortion is eliminated, and in addition, these mechanisms produce significantly less noise than other models. Used mainly on trucks.
Video on replacing the window regulator:
Replacement of the electric window motor for VAZ 2110 in the front left door. Unfortunately, the “Murzilka” from “Behind the Wheel” did not specifically talk about replacing the electric motor. The procedure for removing the door pocket, radio speaker and upholstery is most likely familiar to everyone. For me, the question was what to buy from which manufacturer and how to change it. As a result, I bought a left ESP motor for the LEFT front door, very similar to the one that came from the factory, made in Kaluga. However, when I removed the old one, I saw that the RIGHT motor was installed at the factory. But since they are interchangeable - you can put them on either side - you won’t miss there. And to remove the motor, you DO NOT need to take out the glass, just lift it to the top, and then climb with your hands and still be a little “GYNECOLOGIST” ;))
And so, the removal process itself (it was in the dark after 22-00 on May 29, 2007 with a flashlight in the yard): 1) disconnect the power window connector; 2) unscrew the 3 nuts securing the motor with a wrench; 3) on the motor, unscrew the 2 large rubber nuts with your hands - which connect the coil with the cable to the motor, inserting your hands into the holes in the door; 4) remove the motor - mine came out through the lower left hole - where the column is placed. Installation is in the reverse order, the problem arises when I tried to put the reel with cable on the motor by touch in the dark and then get the pin in the rubber nuts into the holes for fastening this reel to the motor. In terms of time - I fiddled around for almost 2 hours in the dark () I really wanted to finish it, because... It’s HOT to drive with the window closed), although now I understand that you can actually do everything there in 30 minutes - if you immediately hit the motor with a coil.
PS. Maybe it will at least be included in a new search.
why is it so difficult?
technology: 1) unscrew and remove the door pocket 2) unscrew and remove the door handle 3) unscrew and remove the speaker 4) tear off the trim 5) tape the glass in a raised position to the top frame of the door, so that the tape goes over the top and glue it on the other side glass, 2-3 strips are enough 6) remove the terminal from the ESP motor 7) unscrew the 3 nuts securing the ESP motor, unscrew the 2 nuts of the ESP guide 9) unscrew the 2 bolts from the glass frame 10) remove the ESP from the door 11) repair 12) put everything back together sequence 12a) in the door trim, before putting it on the door, do not forget to replace the caps 14) drink beer
How complicated is everything here! I took it off without removing the tropezia, I have to dig deeper, but I took off nothing anyway. Unscrew it and pull it out of there.
But from this place in more detail, please!
My ECT failed in the right rear door. The voltage is fine, but the motor sucks! I tried to take it apart, but it was cold, so I blocked it! But a thought arose, perhaps somehow we can remove the motor without pulling the entire ESP out of the door. But I still haven’t figured out HOW to remove it and HOW to put it back in place! Share the technology, plzzzz!
A week ago I repaired the window regulator of the right rear door. I was afraid to take it off myself for a very long time. It turned out that everything is very simple. Technology: 1. Remove the casing and disconnect the connector. 2. Unscrew the 2 “10” nuts that secure the motor to the door. 3. Unscrew 2 more “10” nuts that secure the trapezoid to the door. 4. You jam the glass. Although I secured it with tape across the doors. Otherwise it may fall inside the door. 5. Using a “10” head, unscrew the 2 bolts that secure the trapezoid to the glass mount. 6. Remove all the threaded rods from the holes into the door. 7. Through the lower right hole in the door, unfold the entire structure so that the motor comes out first, and then everything else. Flexible cables can be bent. 8. Unscrew the two studs with rubber bands from the trapezoid and disconnect the motor.
Kinds
A window lifter is a device used to move window glass and hold it at the desired point. Currently, the range of window lifters is quite wide, it includes not only many brands, but also differences in target orientation:
- front doors
- rear doors
- left doors
- right doors.
Moreover, the design for each device will be different. But in each of the listed cases there are common points; each window regulator consists of:
- grooves installed on the inside of the door frame, the purpose of which is to hold the glass sheet at a certain point
- “rails”, which are statically fixed in the door body and act as guides for the movement of glass
- seal, damper, made of soft rubber, limiting the movement of the glass sheet up and down.
In addition, any type of window regulator consists of two main components:
- lifting mechanism
- drive unit.
There are two types of drive:
- Mechanical - consists of a simple set of parts, a pair of gears and a handle. In order to set the glass sheet in motion, you need to turn the handle clockwise (if you need to raise the glass) or counterclockwise (if you need to lower it). Physical forces are transferred to the drive roller, that’s the whole principle of operation of the mechanical device.
- Electrical is a more complex set of parts. An electric window regulator consists of a drive drum or gear and an electric motor with a built-in worm-type gearbox.
Rack and pinion window lift
According to the lifting mechanism, window lifters are divided into several types. Moreover, in AvtoVAZ cars there are different design options for window lifters.
So, the well-known seven is equipped with a rack-and-pinion type device; by the way, the “ten” also has rack-and-pinion window lifters.
This option is good because it is easy to repair and easy to operate, but a serious disadvantage of the design is its unreliability. In addition, the rack-and-pinion type of device requires lubrication.
Cable (mechanical)
A more advanced design is the cable type, presented in the tenth VAZ model.
The positive point here is the fact that the possibility of glass distortion is completely eliminated. But, like rack and pinion mechanisms, cable mechanisms are also unreliable.
Although the price for them is not so high, window regulators made of galvanized metal, which cost about 400 rubles, and Metprom devices, which cost 300 rubles, enjoy a good reputation.
A standard cable window lift costs less, 250 rubles.
Power window
The new generation of mechanisms are lever ones that operate using hinges.
Their advantage is the absolute absence of noise, but this type of device only works in conjunction with an electric motor, while the first two can also be presented in a mechanical version.
The tenth model is equipped with two types of window lifters: simpler modifications of previous years come with mechanics, and modifications of later years of production come with electric windows.
But since owners of the old ten are more common among motorists, then we will next talk about how to replace a mechanical window regulator yourself, but first we will understand the most common faults of window regulators characteristic of the VAZ-2110.
By the way, the electric window lifter changes in exactly the same way; all the grooves and fastenings are similar and will fit easily.
- What most often happens in the top ten is the grinding of the lift gear, which makes the device inoperative.
- The second reason is a cable break, which disrupts the entire system.
Problems can be solved by dismantling the device and replacing defective parts, or by completely replacing the window regulator, which would be a more correct and simpler option. Now let's get to work.
Photo report on the removal and installation of the VAZ 2110 electric window
So, before you do anything, you will first need to remove the front door trim. Then, lowering the glass to the required height (so that the bolts securing it to the rail become accessible), unscrew everything with a 10mm head, as shown in the photo:
And the glass can be raised as high as possible so that it does not create problems when dismantling the window regulator . After this, unscrew all the nuts securing the VAZ 2110 electric window, which are shown in the photographs below:
Electric window repair/Replacement of the motor on a VAZ
Enjoy watching everyone, I hope my video helped someone with their choice or technical issues) Spare parts.
Design Features
Most owners of the seventh new generation model are confident that the process of replacing a window regulator is somewhat complicated. This is because the glass is connected to the supports and cable in not one, but 2 places. This decision required adding another video. Now there are 4 of them used (three for direction, one for tension).
It is quite possible to make the replacement yourself if you have simple tools:
- Keys (8, 10).
- Phillips screwdriver.
Selection rules
At the factory, the well-known nines and tens are not equipped with electric windows, except in rare cases. Before installing an automated mechanism, you must choose a truly high-quality device. Many car owners choose products from such well-known brands as Berkut and Garnet.
There are three types of parts:
- Cable windows (the cheapest). This technology of raising and lowering windows has many disadvantages. For example, glass moves extremely slowly, and in winter it can even freeze, which leads to a break in the cable and failure of the entire mechanism.
- The most expensive and optimal option is articulated-lever devices. These window regulators lower and raise the windows quickly and quietly. The mechanisms are reliable and do not fail even when the glass freezes.
- Rack and pinion windows. These mechanisms often fail, especially when the glass freezes. To avoid problems, it is recommended to lubricate the mechanism regularly to avoid jamming.
Experts recommend choosing window regulators that are equipped with an electric motor, wiring, plugs, buttons, fasteners and rubber cuffs. Cuffs are required to pull the wires from the post into the door.
Let's sum it up
Most often, rack-and-pinion electric windows are installed on domestically produced cars. Well-known manufacturers sell cable-driven mechanisms. The mechanism contains springs that compensate for the tension of the cable. Externally, the designs of window lifters are very similar, but they work with different gear motors.
Syzran-made mechanisms are equipped with imported motors, while all other manufacturers use domestic engines. The operating parameters of the products also differ.
The approximate cost of a cable electric window lift is 850 rubles, and lifts from the Granat company cost about 950 rubles.
Garnet window regulators have a highly reliable metal rack and pinion mechanism, which is characterized by quiet operation and consumes minimal energy. The mechanism is equipped with an imported gear motor. The main feature of the device is its good service life.
The steering rack is a part of any vehicle that can be quite expensive to repair, and replacement is even more expensive. At the same time, anyone can buy a repair kit and replace the main elements themselves.
Today, the domestic “ten” continues to confidently remain in a leading position among the most popular cars in the country. They have already stopped producing them, but this does not stop many people from driving a VAZ 2110.
The car is far from ideal, but it has a lot of positive qualities. One of them is the simplicity of the design, which allows you to perform a whole range of repair work with your own hands.
An example of a successful design that combines good reliability and the possibility of self-repair is window regulators.
Window lifter malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
The operation of the window lifter is configured and adjusted by the manufacturer, so you should interfere with it extremely carefully and carefully, otherwise the mechanism may jam, crackle and crackle.
From personal experience, I advise you to carefully study the device and read the detailed troubleshooting instructions before starting to independently repair the window lifter mechanism. Even though many of them seem quite possible to fix with a screwdriver and a wrench, in some cases it may be necessary to completely replace the window regulator.
Window lift creaking
At first glance, the creaking of the window regulator does not seem to be a serious malfunction, but you should pay attention to this signal, since this is the first sign that the mechanism is wearing out and may soon break. Methods to combat this symptom are extremely simple, accessible to everyone and do not take much time:
- lubricate the window lifter - lubricants from any manufacturer, widely available in car dealerships, are suitable for these purposes;
Window lifter jammed
The main reasons that the VAZ 2107 window lifter is jammed are as follows:
- failure of the welded joint connecting the cable bracket and the glass strip to which it is attached. In this case, you need to disconnect the window lift cable and weld the bracket;
- The cable is tangled or twisted inside the window lift mechanism. You can try simply removing and reinstalling the cable. In case of failure, the entire mechanism will have to be replaced;
- wear of the window lifter gears indicates a clear need to replace them.
Glass falls
It happens that the glass falls and does not stay up. The reason for this may lie in the weakening of the tension roller, which creates the proper tension in the cable. To fix the damage, it is necessary to restore this mount. Another cause of the malfunction may be that the end of the cable has come out of the fastener. Then you need to remove the window regulator and try to wind the cable again.
It’s easy to check whether you carried out the repairs properly: in good condition, the window lifter handle rotates freely and effortlessly, the glass rises easily, without getting stuck and without any extraneous sounds.
Repair
It is not possible to repair window regulators in all cases. Mostly, these glass lifting devices can be repaired in case of obvious mechanical fractures of the elements.
But we can still give some useful tips regarding restoring the functionality of the window regulator without replacing it.
- If the electric window motor fails to work, then the brushes or winding are most likely to blame. To verify this and fix the damage, you need to remove the motor, disassemble it and clean the outer and inner surfaces.
- For cleaning, it is recommended to use a lint-free cloth. The cloth is soaked in gasoline, alcohol or a special cleaning agent. When you buy the latter, you can use it for a long time, the efficiency is higher compared to gasoline.
- After cleaning and drying the parts, it is recommended to treat the moving elements with lubricant so that the mechanisms function longer.
- If the cable comes off the lifting mechanism, you will have to dismantle it, remove the electric motor, or unwind the cable if it is mechanical. Then the cable is pulled back onto the grooves and the assembly is reassembled.
- If a malfunction occurs in the mechanism or the electrical circuit of the device, it is necessary to study this circuit, determine the direction of the wires, and then ring them. This is the most effective way to check for electrical failure.
Lifting device diagram
Repair in most cases gives only a temporary result, so soon you will still have to make a full replacement. This is due to the fact that each part has its own service life and degree of wear. When they are reached, the window regulator stops working.
Replacing or repairing mechanical or electrical window regulators cannot be called complex undertakings. It is quite possible to cope with such tasks with your own hands.
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Mechanism design
The window regulator is a fairly simple mechanism, but it is important to know that the design for the front and rear doors is somewhat different. However, in both cases their equipment is exactly the same. So inside the cabin are located:
- the handle itself;
- protective cap;
- socket.
The window lifting mechanism consists of:
- brackets;
- lower and tension rollers;
- bolt;
- star winding mechanism;
- cable traction.
And the last part is the glass fastening system. It includes:
- pressure plates;
- fixing screws.
The 2107 differs from earlier classic VAZ models in the shape of its front windows - they are pentagonal. The old ones, as many remember, had a separate window, which the manufacturer, striving to optimize work processes, abandoned. Because of this decision, it was necessary to change the layout of the cable and its feeding, so the seven has an additional (tension) roller. You need to know this nuance in order to remove the window regulator without difficulty.
Anyone can replace any structural element independently, without going to a service station. However, it is important to complete all work carefully and without errors.
