Operation of power windows without turning on the ignition

Window lifters without ignition

Many people are familiar with the situation - you arrived home, turned off the car, took out the ignition keys and then noticed that you did not close the windows. And when the ignition is turned off, the power windows do not work. You will have to take out the keys again, turn on the ignition and close the windows.

On some cars, or more precisely on those whose power windows operate via a relay, it is possible to make the power windows work without ignition . This applies in particular to Lada Kalina and Lada Priora cars in the “standard” and “norm” trim levels (except for those where the comfort unit is responsible for the operation of the window regulators).

First, you need to understand how the power window relay works. In simple terms, it has two contacts that open when the ignition is turned off and do not allow you to use the power windows.

Thus, in order for the power windows to work without ignition , these two contacts must be constantly closed. To do this, many people use various jumpers from scrap materials, but there is an easier way. Let's look at it using the Lada Kalina car as an example.

To work, we need only two tools - a thin screwdriver and electrical tape.

Open the mounting block to the left of the steering wheel and remove the power window relay .

Next you need to remove the cover from this relay. To do this, there are two grooves on the relay body; they can be carefully pressed out with a thin screwdriver.

By removing the cover, you can see these two contacts.

To close them, we press the upper contact and tightly tighten the relay body with electrical tape, which will press it and prevent the contacts from opening.

After this, close the relay with the removed cover until a characteristic click is heard. We install the relay back into the mounting block and check the operation of the power windows.

Operation of electric windows without ignition

The first method to make the power windows work not from the ignition is to connect the two contacts of the ESP relay. The power window relay is mounted, and is located on the left or in the center of the mounting block. Despite the fact that this method does not look safe and can hardly be called aesthetic, it is the most popular.

The second method is no different in meaning from the first. We also close two contacts of the power window relay, but inside it. That is, a slight modification of the ESP relay is obtained. The last method is to connect the ESP from the cigarette lighter.

We remove the lower dashboard valve on the passenger side and find the wires from the cigarette lighter.
Connect the wire to the “+” of the cigarette lighter.
We stretch it to the ESP buttons.
We connect to the white-black wire, you can use any wire, because plus for power windows is common.

Window operation without ignition

Power windows (ESP) will not work normally when the ignition in the car is turned off. This is inconvenient in cases where the driver has taken out the keys and walked away from the car, and the passenger in the cabin will not be able to lower the window at this time. That's why we have to open the doors. Raising the windows on the doors will also not work, since the engine is turned off and there is no contact in the electrical network. Specialists can connect an ESP without ignition using several methods. The choice of installation method depends on the individual preferences of the car dealership technician.

The first connection method is to make the ESP work not from the car's ignition system. To do this, just connect a pair of contacts of the power window relay. This relay is located on the left side or in the center of the mounting block, and it is also hinged.

This is the most popular and easiest method of connecting window regulators. However, it is not very safe and aesthetically pleasing.

The second connection method is similar to the first. The auto repair shop specialist also closes a pair of relay contacts, but does it not from the outside, but from the inside. Here there is a slight modification by the master of the electric window relay.

The third connection method is based on installing electric windows to the cigarette lighter. The work algorithm consists of four main stages:

The technician needs to find the cigarette lighter wires by first removing the lower dashboard valve on the passenger side.
The wire is connected to the “plus” contact on the cigarette lighter.
The car dealership specialist lays the attached wire to the power window buttons.
Next, the assembled structure must be connected by a mechanic to the black and white wire. You can choose any other one, since the “+” on the ESP is common.

At the final stage of work, the power window fuse (marked as A5) is put aside, since it is no longer needed. It is worth paying attention that the cigarette lighter fuse marked F6 must be replaced with a 30A one.

The entire process of installing electric windows is presented more clearly in detailed video instructions.

It is important to remember that such modifications to the ESP connection greatly drain the car’s battery charge. The main reason is that a lot of energy is consumed by the motors. There are two ways to solve this problem:

Do not unnecessarily raise or lower the windows when the engine is off;
install a powerful battery under the hood of the car.

Such a simple improvement of your car will make life much easier not only for passengers, but also for the driver.

Window lifters without ignition viburnum

This is the most popular and easiest method of connecting window regulators. However, it is not very safe and aesthetically pleasing.

The third connection method is based on installing electric windows to the cigarette lighter. The work algorithm consists of four main stages:

The technician needs to find the cigarette lighter wires by first removing the lower dashboard valve on the passenger side.
The wire is connected to the “plus” contact on the cigarette lighter.
The car dealership specialist lays the attached wire to the power window buttons.
Next, the assembled structure must be connected by a mechanic to the black and white wire. You can choose any other one, since the “+” on the ESP is common.

Window lifters without ignition | Bringing the Chevrolet Lacetti to Mind

. . Today I want to talk to you about how inconvenient it is to use power windows on many brands of cars. In particular, we will talk about the Chevrolet Lacetti. Those who do not smoke experience difficulties only in the warm season, but those who smoke both in winter and summer, and taxi drivers have the worst situation. They spend the entire working day in the saddle of their iron horse. How does it usually work out? I started the car, drove, it seemed a little hot, opened the window, drove up to, say, a store, and parked. And usually everyone immediately turns off the engine, takes the ignition key out of the lock and gets out of the car. And when they start to lock the doors, they see that the window is open. And now you need to get into the car again, insert the key into the ignition, turn it on, and this will lead to an unnecessary, unnecessary start of the electric fuel pump, then raise the window, turn off the ignition, remove the key, get out of the car, lock it. Agree that it is not very convenient. And if you are waiting in the car for your wife, who ran into the store for 5 minutes, and you have been sitting for the second hour and thinking about how much you can buy during this time, And now your hand nervously reaches for the window lifter button to open the window, smoke and calm down nerves. But it was not there. You need to turn on the ignition again, the electric fuel pump will start again, open the window slightly and turn off the ignition. And after you have smoked, you need to go through the whole procedure again. Of course this is not the case! So after buying the car, I decided immediately, without delay, to remake this system so that everything would work regardless of the ignition. I already had experience, I did the same thing on my former twin. The only thing left to do was find the windshield wiper relay on the new car. I was lucky here, the fuse and relay mounting blocks were in the table in the instruction book. I quickly cut off a small piece from the car wire, stripped the ends to the length of the relay legs, soldered them and flattened them a little with a hammer so that they became just like the relay legs, instead of which this wiring was installed, bridging contacts “30” and “87”. The markings are indicated on the relay from the side of the legs. Or you can do it in Russian - if you look at the contacts of the board (the holes where the relay legs are inserted) from the side of the front bumper and remember the dial of the clock, you will see that the contacts are located at 11 o’clock, 1 hour, 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock. The jumper must be inserted into those located at 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock. Insert this wiring and the relay into the glove compartment as a reserve. And everything was fine all day, but when I put the car in the garage in the evening and turned off the ignition, I noticed in the dark that the LEDs in the control buttons were glowing green. I thought that I hadn’t turned off the lights, but everything was turned off, I even took out the ignition key just in case. But they kept burning and burning. Then I realized that the LEDs light up when current is supplied to the power windows and are constantly on. I turned on the ignition - the relay closed - current flowed to the power windows and the LEDs lit up. I turned off the ignition - the relay opened - the current disappeared and the LEDs went out. And if you use a jumper instead of a relay, the LEDs will light constantly. You won’t leave your car in the garage overnight every time with the keys on. I was very offended by all of North and South America, took out the jumper and walked home with quiet sadness. I sat down on the Internet, but didn’t find anything helpful except the resentment and dissatisfaction of our compatriots. They suggest installing closers, a power delay or a toggle switch. But all this needs to be bought in a store or ordered and not cheap, installed, but the problems cannot be completely solved. The closer works when arming. If you set the delay relay for 5 minutes, you can, of course, do more, but what to do after this time has elapsed? But the same thing will happen - the delay time has passed, and you need to turn on the ignition again. In addition, during the delay, current will constantly flow through the relay coil to keep the contacts in the closed state. Plus the power supply for the circuit itself, and the LEDs in the keys will light up at this time. The consumption is not large, but still there. In general, this is not a solution. An extra toggle switch will ruin the appearance of the interior and will smell like a collective farm. I had to look for power window diagrams. Out of 20 pieces, there was only one normal one, from which you can understand something. The night was not in vain, and I found a way out, simply and tastefully. You don’t need to buy anything, the price is 0 rubles, nothing extra, everything is yours, with your own hands in 10 minutes. All you need to do is put a jumper instead of the relay and swap the wires in the chip. The operation of the window lifters will change slightly, but, as it seems to me and everyone I have changed, for the better. Previously, all windows could be opened on the driver's side regardless of the passenger door lock button. Usually, while driving, the driver does not look at the buttons to open his window and often opens the back one. Then he spits, closes it, moves his hand and opens his own. And after the modification, when the prohibition button is pressed, only the driver's window lifter key will work, only this one key, and the LEDs will not light up. but as soon as you press the lock button, all the keys will immediately work, both on the driver’s door and on the passenger doors, and the diodes will light up, indicating that passengers can also use the power windows. As soon as you press the button again, the diodes will immediately go out and only the driver's window lifter button will work. Now, at any time, you can raise and lower the windows whenever you want, regardless of the ignition key, and turn off the LEDs with one press of the lock button. For those who want to change the operation of the window lifters in their car themselves, I have made a detailed video instruction. You don’t need any knowledge, you just need your hands, a jumper with soldered ends, a Phillips screwdriver and two stationery needles with a curved eye at the end so as not to prick your finger. Video instructions cost 250 rubles. If you are interested, go to the Payment Instructions page. Anyone who lives in Kostroma and doesn’t want to redo it themselves can click on the contacts at the top of the page and call me on the phone. We can agree on time, place and for 300 rubles. I'll do everything myself... You can watch the first part of the video on how to make and where to insert the jumper in the video:

Bringing the Chevrolet Lacetti to Mind

13.07.2016 . . Today I want to talk to you about how inconvenient it is to use power windows on many brands of cars. In particular, we will talk about the Chevrolet Lacetti. Those who do not smoke experience difficulties only in the warm season, but those who smoke both in winter and summer, and taxi drivers have the worst situation. They spend the entire working day in the saddle of their iron horse. How does it usually work out? I started the car, drove, it seemed a little hot, opened the window, drove up to, say, a store, and parked. And usually everyone immediately turns off the engine, takes the ignition key out of the lock and gets out of the car. And when they start to lock the doors, they see that the window is open. And now you need to get into the car again, insert the key into the ignition, turn it on, and this will lead to an unnecessary, unnecessary start of the electric fuel pump, then raise the window, turn off the ignition, remove the key, get out of the car, lock it. Agree that it is not very convenient. And if you are waiting in the car for your wife, who ran into the store for 5 minutes, and you have been sitting for the second hour and thinking about how much you can buy during this time,

. . And now your hand nervously reaches for the power window button to open the window slightly, smoke and calm your nerves. But it was not there. You need to turn on the ignition again, the electric fuel pump will start again, open the window slightly and turn off the ignition. And after you have smoked, you need to go through the whole procedure again. Of course this is not the case! So after buying the car, I decided immediately, without delay, to remake this system so that everything would work regardless of the ignition. I already had experience, I did the same thing on my former twin. The only thing left to do was find the windshield wiper relay on the new car. I was lucky here, the fuse and relay mounting blocks were in the table in the instruction book. I quickly cut off a small piece from the car wire, stripped the ends to the length of the relay legs, soldered them and flattened them a little with a hammer so that they became just like the relay legs, instead of which this wiring was installed, bridging contacts “30” and “87”. The markings are indicated on the relay from the side of the legs. Or you can do it in Russian - if you look at the contacts of the board (the holes where the relay legs are inserted) from the side of the front bumper and remember the dial of the clock, you will see that the contacts are located at 11 o’clock, 1 hour, 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock. The jumper must be inserted into those located at 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock. Insert this wiring and the relay into the glove compartment as a reserve. And everything was fine all day, but when I put the car in the garage in the evening and turned off the ignition, I noticed in the dark that the LEDs in the control buttons were glowing green. I thought that I hadn’t turned off the lights, but everything was turned off, I even took out the ignition key just in case. But they kept burning and burning. Then I realized that the LEDs light up when current is supplied to the power windows and are constantly on. I turned on the ignition - the relay closed - current flowed to the power windows and the LEDs lit up. I turned off the ignition - the relay opened - the current disappeared and the LEDs went out. And if you use a jumper instead of a relay, the LEDs will light constantly. You won’t leave your car in the garage overnight every time with the keys on. I was very offended by all of North and South America, took out the jumper and walked home with quiet sadness. I sat down on the Internet, but didn’t find anything helpful except the resentment and dissatisfaction of our compatriots. They suggest installing closers, a power delay or a toggle switch. But all this needs to be bought in a store or ordered and not cheap, installed, but the problems cannot be completely solved. The closer works when arming. If you set the delay relay for 5 minutes, you can, of course, do more, but what to do after this time has elapsed? But the same thing will happen - the delay time has passed, and you need to turn on the ignition again. In addition, during the delay, current will constantly flow through the relay coil to keep the contacts in the closed state. Plus the power supply for the circuit itself, and the LEDs in the keys will light up at this time. The consumption is not large, but still there. In general, this is not a solution. An extra toggle switch will ruin the appearance of the interior and will smell like a collective farm. I had to look for power window diagrams. Out of 20 pieces, there was only one normal one, from which you can understand something. The night was not in vain, and I found a way out, simply and tastefully. You don’t need to buy anything, the asking price is 0 rubles , nothing extra, everything is your own, with your own hands in 10 minutes. All you need to do is put a jumper instead of the relay and swap the wires in the chip. The operation of the window lifters will change slightly, but, as it seems to me and everyone I have changed, for the better. Previously, all windows could be opened on the driver's side regardless of the passenger door lock button. Usually, while driving, the driver does not look at the buttons to open his window and often opens the back one. Then he spits, closes it, moves his hand and opens his own.

. . And after the modification, when the prohibition button is pressed, only the driver's window lifter key will work, only this one key, and the LEDs will not light up. but as soon as you press the lock button, all the keys will immediately work, both on the driver’s door and on the passenger doors, and the diodes will light up, indicating that passengers can also use the power windows. As soon as you press the button again, the diodes will immediately go out and only the driver's window lifter button will work. Now, at any time, you can raise and lower the windows whenever you want, regardless of the ignition key, and turn off the LEDs with one press of the lock button. For those who want to change the operation of the window lifters in their car themselves, I have made a detailed video instruction. You don’t need any knowledge, you just need your hands, a jumper with soldered ends, a Phillips screwdriver and two stationery needles with a curved eye at the end so as not to prick your finger. Video instructions cost 250 rubles. If you are interested, go to the Payment Instructions page. to support the site. Anyone who lives in Kostroma and doesn’t want to redo it themselves can click on the contacts at the top of the page and call me on the phone. We can agree on time, place and for 300 rubles. I'll do everything myself. . . You can watch the first part of the video on how to make and where to insert the jumper in the video:

Go to Main page

Operation of electric windows without ignition

Normally, the electric windows (ESP) do not work until you turn on the ignition and this is not entirely convenient. It happens that the driver enters the store, but the passenger cannot open the window at this time because there is no key. You can connect an ESP without ignition in various ways, let's try to understand each of them.

We remove the lower dashboard valve on the passenger side and find the wires from the cigarette lighter.
Connect the wire to the '+' of the cigarette lighter.
We stretch it to the ESP buttons.
We connect to the white-black wire, you can use any wire, because plus for power windows is common.

As a result, we no longer need the power window fuse (A5), and replace the cigarette lighter fuse (F6) with a 30A one.

It is worth remembering that such modifications to connecting the power windows can easily drain the battery, because Motors consume a lot of energy. But if you don’t abuse them without the ignition on and have a good battery under the hood, then everything will be fine.

Operation of power windows without turning on the ignition

After buying a car, I was annoyed by the fact that the power windows only work when the car is running or when the ignition is on. but if you turned off the car and then you see that the windows are not closed and you come to turn on the ignition, and with it the fuel pump and raise the window. Step-by-step instructions: power windows without turning on the ignition: For this we need: 1. Block for flat fuses. Sold in many auto stores. 2. Large 30A fuse. 3. Any large fuse is blown or new. 4. A piece of heat-shrinkable tubing or electrical tape. 5. More or less straight hands and the desire to implement your plans.

We disassemble a burnt or purchased new fuse in order to get the contacts. We cut the wire of the block (it is sold with a closed wire) so that one wire is slightly shorter than the other. Solder the contacts from the disassembled fuse to the ends of the wires. We isolate connections in any way. We leave the contact that is soldered to the shorter wire as is, and the contact that is soldered to the longer end with the help of wire cutters or something else we move to the width of the foot of the small fuse.

We insert a large 30A fuse into the block. Next, open the cover of the fuse box, find fuse F32, and remove it. In place of the right leg of this fuse, we insert the contact of our block with a short wire. Attention! “+” appears on the opposite contact of our block. Make sure that it does not touch the metal parts of the body. After this, we insert the previously removed fuse into place. Now we find fuse F14 and remove it. We won't need it anymore, so we insert it into the spare fuse slot on the back of the fuse box cover. Next, we insert the other end (longer) of our block into the upper connector from the removed fuse.

It's ready, but all that remains is to secure the block somehow so that it doesn't dangle. It miraculously fits into the recess in the plastic inside the fuse box. Staying dead.

This is what happened.
All! Now your power windows will work regardless of whether the ignition is on or off. And lastly. We have not made any changes to the electrical network. We simply took the constant “plus” from the rear window heater and supplied power to the electric windows through the required fuse, thereby simply bypassing the circuit from the ignition switch. Any person who knows at least a little how to use a soldering iron can implement this. This method is also suitable for cars under warranty, because This jumper can be removed and installed back in less than a minute. Source of idea: forum.logan.ru