When starting from a stop, the car jerks - why this happens, a list of the main reasons and methods for solving them (instructions + life hacks)

Do you experience jerking or vibration when starting from a stop? In most cases, the cause of the breakdown is a malfunctioning clutch.

Correct diagnostics saves time and money, so do not rush to immediately begin repairing the clutch and replacing failed parts. First, use simple tips to eliminate malfunctions that may be associated with the fact that the car jerks when starting to move.

First, warm up the engine to operating temperature. Secondly, make sure there are no problems with the power and ignition system.

If after the work done the jerking when starting does not go away, then use the list of clutch malfunctions and methods for eliminating them below.

Deformation of the driven disk.

Clean the splines from dirt, remove minor damage with a file. If the splines are significantly worn or damaged, replace the transmission disc and/or input shaft. Before assembly, apply CV joint grease to the splines.

Replace the flywheel or clutch housing and pressure plate assembly (clutch basket).

Malfunctions of car components often make drivers very nervous. Engine or gearbox breakdowns can cause large unforeseen expenses, so it is better to solve problems that arise with them immediately. If the car jerks when starting off, this does not mean anything good. However, the problem may turn out to be trivial and cost a pretty penny, but it may also happen that the transmission or engine will have to be repaired. Let's figure out why the car jerks when starting off. What should you pay attention to first?

Driving style

Beginners often abruptly release the clutch pedal when starting, which is why the car jerks. There are no breakdowns here, you need to learn to drive the car by smoothly adding gas and releasing the clutch.

You need to intuitively feel at what point the clutch starts to engage. Try to practice and get moving a few times. On a car with an automatic transmission there is no clutch pedal. Therefore, to start moving smoothly, just gently press the gas, turning the gearbox into “drive” mode.

Fuel starvation

Jerking during acceleration can be a sign of problems along any part of the entire fuel supply route from the tank to the engine. The internal combustion engine is sensitive to depressurization of the fuel line and problems of fuel leakage from it. Damage to the fuel line can lead not only to the fact that when you sharply press the gas, the car does not react immediately, but even to a fire or explosion. Therefore, a smart first step in diagnosing fuel starvation is to inspect the area under the car for fuel leaks.

Checking the filter and tank

The fuel filter is responsible for cleaning gasoline before it enters the injection system. It may be clogged with debris, dirt and other particles from the tank or fuel particles. Usually the filter is attached inside the engine compartment on the main line before the mixture formation system. If there is no certainty regarding the date of its last replacement, then a clogged filter as a possible cause of jerks during acceleration should be considered more carefully. To understand whether this is the problem, you need to:

• Physically inspect the fuel filter. If it is visually obvious that it is dirty, then its obstruction is likely causing a restriction in the flow of fuel to the engine.
• Check for leaks at the joints where the fuel lines are spliced ​​with the filter housing. It is not uncommon for connections to loosen before the system depressurizes.

Then make sure that the leak has stopped and test the engine again. In some cases, the tank ventilation system may become clogged. The problem is invisible when the tank is full, but when it is empty it can manifest itself as failures during acceleration.

Troubleshooting pump problems

The fuel pump in a modern car is most often of a submersible type and runs on an electric drive. Its task is to pump fuel out of the tank and push it through the fuel lines in the desired direction. Opening the throttle valve entails an increase in fuel consumption. Accordingly, the pump in this case increases the pressure to satisfy the engine's gasoline needs.

Analyzing and troubleshooting fuel pump problems will require professional diagnostic equipment to scan and interpret error codes. Or you will have to remove the pump and check its operation. If it is suspected of being faulty, a complete replacement is recommended.

Malfunction of CV joints

On cars with front-wheel drive, torque is transmitted to the wheels through special drives - constant velocity joints. If they are worn out or out of order, there will be jerking when moving away. People call the CV joint a “grenade” because of its appearance.

The following signs can be used to determine the serviceability of grenades:

1. Increased play in CV joints when moving back and forth.
2. A characteristic crunch when turning sharply with the addition of gas.
3. Knocks while moving.

Most often, the cause can be eliminated only by replacing the grenades, but sometimes they are sorted out and lubricated. Although this doesn't help for long. If you have an inspection hole or overpass, a standard tool, then you can do everything yourself.

Grenades are replaced in the following order:

1. Remove the wheel.
2. Unscrew the hub nut.
3. Remove the ball joint.
4. Pull out the wheel drive assembly with two grenades.

Next, you need to remove the covers, clamps and knock the CV joints off the axle shaft. New parts are installed in the reverse order.

There may be individual features of replacing grenades, depending on the make of the car.

Why does the car jerk when releasing the clutch?

Good afternoon. In today's post I will tell you why the car jerks when the clutch is released. Traditionally for our site, the article is written in simple language and contains many photos and video materials.

Anyone who has begun to learn to drive a car equipped with a manual gearbox is familiar with jerks when trying to move. Jerks and vibrations when a clutch malfunctions are similar, they look something like this:

The instructor explains that you need to release the clutch pedal more smoothly and/or increase engine speed. But it also happens that it is simply impossible to move off smoothly; the car vibrates at the slightest release of the clutch. In this case, in order to start smoothly, you have to rev the engine to extreme speeds.

In most cases, this indicates a malfunction of the clutch or engine mount (mounts) . How is diagnosis carried out?

How to check engine mounts?

On most cars, damage to the airbags can be detected visually.

If the damage is severe, an unnatural position of the engine will be visible.

Here is an example on Mazda 3 bk:

As you can see, the engine tilted... When I tried to start, the car galloped like a horse, and it had an automatic transmission! I can’t even imagine what would happen to the mechanics.

If the faulty airbags are not visually visible, it is necessary to check their integrity using a mounting tool or a jack. Here is a video with an example of such a check:

If, after checking the engine mount, you find no faults, or if you have replaced the mounts and the vibrations have decreased but not completely disappeared, you will have to open the clutch.

Screw everyone who suggests conducting diagnostics indiscriminately... No one will be able to determine the wear of the friction linings, their breakage or the loss of damper springs without disassembling!

You have two options:

Option one.

You immediately buy the entire clutch assembly (release bearing, fork basket, disc, and possibly the engine flywheel if it is dual-mass), it’s expensive, but it solves the problem for a long time.

And you change it yourself, or in a service convenient for you.

Second option.

On your own, or at a service center, remove the gearbox and clutch for diagnostics.

The vibration is likely caused by broken damper springs:

Or partial destruction of the friction linings:

Or destruction of the clutch disc itself:

Or a broken clutch basket:

It could also be something unlikely - a combination of factors or biting when moving the release bearing. In any case, only an autopsy will tell.

Usually, I recommend disassembling it first, finding the cause, and then buying spare parts. This way you will save a lot. But your repair will be delayed since spare parts will not be delivered immediately.

In any case, when repairing the clutch, I recommend replacing the release bearing. It is not expensive, but changing is problematic.

Agree, it’s not very pleasant to pay 4-6 thousand rubles. for removing the gearbox and repeat this procedure after 10,000 km due to a buzzing release bearing at a cost of 500-1500 rubles...

Conclusion.

That's all for me today. I hope that the article fully answered the question of why the car jerks when the clutch is released.

If you have any questions, or if you want to add to the article, write comments.

Clutch failure

Often, jerking and jerking of the car when starting off occurs due to a clutch malfunction.

What may be faulty in the clutch mechanism:

1. The driven disk is worn out (replace only).
2. The disc hub is stuck on the transmission input shaft. The splines need to be cleaned. If this does not help, then replace the shaft or disk.
3. The linings are worn out or their fastening is loose. The driven disk assembly is replaced.
4. Window wear, broken or weakened springs. Disk replacement.
5. Spring plates reduced elasticity. The driven disk must be replaced with a new one.
6. The pressure plate or flywheel is scored. The clutch basket or flywheel needs to be replaced.

It is convenient to carry out repairs in a pit by lifting the front of the car. First, the starter, cardan and other parts are removed, depending on the design. After removing the gearbox, you can get to the clutch. Next, you need to remove the basket cover, flywheel parts, install a new disk and reassemble in reverse order.

Special tools SACHS

SACHS clutch assembly kit for passenger cars and light commercial vehicles

The SACHS special tool kit is suitable for removing and installing conventional clutches, wear-compensating clutches (Xtend) and for aligning the clutch disc.

SACHS lateral runout testers

SACHS offers devices for checking the lateral runout of clutch discs from 240 mm in diameter, depending on whether the clutch is being tested on a car or a truck.

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Steering

The steering force is transmitted to the front wheels using a special device - the steering rack. If it is faulty, then when moving away the car may jerk, and there will be vibration on the steering wheel.

When the steering tips are worn, the front wheels create jerks when braking, accelerating or starting. The steering parts must be replaced with new ones.

Transmission malfunction

The second possible reason is the checkpoint. But if the gearbox is not completely working, then you can also observe other manifestations besides jerks at the start: difficulty shifting any gear, noise from the unit, etc.

If we are talking about a manual transmission, then repairing it can be inexpensive. It is difficult to replace any gear in such a mechanism, but it is possible, and this is something that specialists at service stations undertake. If the automatic transmission malfunctions, the situation becomes more complicated. Repairing it will be expensive. If the variator in an automatic transmission begins to jerk, then the service station most often offers its complete replacement, since repair in this case is impractical.

It is difficult to diagnose a problem due to which a VAZ car jerks when starting off. This can only be revealed by service station specialists during a detailed inspection of the car and its components.

Why does the car jerk when starting from a stop?

A machine is a complex mechanism that copes with enormous loads during operation. Therefore, you should not be particularly upset if any node fails or does not work as it should. Any car breaks down - it's only a matter of time. Drivers often complain on forums that their car jerks when starting from a stop. The reasons for this phenomenon may be different. Let's try to figure them out.

vehicle

Machines can have different primary purposes, such as processing bodies or moving them. For example, a threshing machine and a lathe are classified as processing machines, and a locomotive is a moving type.

A name can determine character and destiny; specific cars are named after the brand name - BMW, Mercedes, Ford, Opel, Aston Martin, etc. Constructors and designers are working to create the appearance of cars, and this is how new and new model ranges gradually appear.

Today we use the word “machine” or “car” without even knowing what such devices were called before. When the time came for the active development of the automotive industry, manufacturers gave their names to devices with four wheels and an engine. In one of the newspapers in 1897 one could see the following headline: “A mechanical carriage with the terrifying name Automobile has come and decided to stay forever.” In general, at that time, “car” was considered not the most pleasant word, and indeed, like “car,” it scared many.

Riding style

Speaking about why the car jerks when starting from a stop, we need to start with the obvious. The very first and most obvious reason is a harsh clutch. If you start, add gas and suddenly release the clutch pedal, the car will definitely jerk. Therefore, first of all, you need to try to change your driving style. At a minimum, when starting off, you need to release the clutch pedal very slowly and add a little more gas. However, you shouldn't press the gas pedal too hard.

However, if with an automatic transmission the car jerks when starting, then you won’t be able to change your driving style here, because there is simply no clutch pedal. But even with a manual transmission, the problem may be different. If the car still jerks even when starting smoothly, the problem is clearly not a sudden grip of the clutch discs.

What's the result?

As you can see, if a car jerks in first gear or a car jerks in second gear, there can be quite a few reasons. If we talk about the transmission, often with manual transmissions and many types of robotic gearboxes, a common cause is a worn clutch (both as a whole and individual elements) or malfunctions in the actuators responsible for the operation of the clutch on a manual transmission.

Finally, we note that if the owner notices that the car begins to jerk in first gear, the car jerks in second speed, etc., it is better not to delay in determining the cause. On the one hand, quick troubleshooting will allow you to avoid more serious problems and costly breakdowns, but on the other hand, jerking and jerking in the first and second gears can cause accidents and other troubles on the road.

The gearbox crunches when changing gears, there is a crackling sound when shifting gears or other extraneous sounds: the main reasons for the crunching or crackling of the gearbox.

The gearbox hummed: reasons. Why is the automatic transmission humming or the manual transmission making noise and howling? Transmission repair, useful tips and recommendations.

Protective and restorative additives for manual transmissions: how the compositions work, advisability of use. Selection of additives in manual transmission.

Reasons for difficulty shifting gears with the engine running. Transmission oil and level in the gearbox, wear of synchronizers and gearbox gears, clutch.

The reverse speed of the automatic transmission has disappeared: the main reasons. Why reverse gear on an automatic transmission does not engage, diagnostics and repair.

The main reasons for knocking in an automatic transmission: why the automatic transmission is knocking. Frequent malfunctions that lead to humming and knocking in the automatic transmission.

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External and internal CV joints

If some suspension parts are poorly secured, then when driving (especially during a sharp start), they can cause the car to jerk. First of all, you need to check the inner and outer CV joints. The inner CV joint transmits rotational energy from the gearbox to the axle shafts and then to the wheels. This element is quite important, and if problems arise with it, it must be changed. This can be done at any service station. Features of failure of the inner CV joint are as follows:

1. When destroyed, the inner CV joint becomes loose and can turn when transmitting forces, especially at the start.
2. On a straight road without the smallest potholes, the inner CV joint can knock. In this case, it will seem that a dull knock is coming from the wheels.
3. Outer CV joints may crunch when turning. If destroyed, they can also cause the car to jerk when starting off.
4. Usually, internal CV joints simply wear out and because of this they fail. However, rarely the gearbox can cause a breakdown of this unit. This happens in cases where there is something wrong with the box itself.
5. Outer CV joints can break due to impacts or careless driving on a bad road.

If your VAZ car jerks when starting from a stop, then first of all you need to check the CV joints. Often on forums when discussing a similar problem, users point to this particular node. Considering the prevalence of these cars and the cheapness of spare parts, repairing this element is unlikely to be expensive. It is worth noting that a similar problem occurs on the VAZ-2114 car. When starting off, the car jerks, but after replacing the CV joint (“grenade”), the problem disappears.

What to do

Why won't my car start from auto start? overview of reasons

If the engine jerks at idle, the cause should initially be determined. Then replace the damaged unit.

For carburetor models, the primary diagnosis begins with the throttle and the combustible mixture formation unit itself. Usually on old foreign cars and VAZs the root of evil is located here.

If the problem arose on a modern VAZ 2114/15 or on an “exotic” model like 1JZ-GE. The source of the problem may be inside the sensors. First of all, the DPKV, temperature sensor, temperature control system and others are checked. If everything is in order, you need to move on. High-voltage wires, spark plugs, and the ECM are diagnosed, and the ECU is checked last.

The car jerks at idle and when driving

If the problem occurs not only while parked, but also while driving, it is necessary to check the ignition, carburetor, and serviceability of the throttle valve.

For the injector, diagnostics of the fuel rail, its pressure, tightness, and the condition of the injectors are appropriate.

Also in both cases, the electronic part is diagnosed: control units, distributor, wiring, spark plugs.

The malfunction is caused by a failure, incorrect operation, of one of the vehicle systems.

The injector jerks

Main reasons:

• injectors or individual fuel supply elements are clogged;
• ignition coils are not working properly;
• The ECU and sensors are not functioning correctly.

The carburetor jerks

Everything is simpler with a carburetor. Here's what you should check:

• throttle valve condition;
• filters;
• spark plugs;
• distributor;
• Is the fuel pump working correctly?

At idle the car jerks and stalls

If the engine does not idle during a cold start in winter, there is nothing terrible - the block will warm up and everything will return to normal. However, if there is a failure after warming up, there may be several reasons for the breakdown.

1. Idle air control failure.
2. Clogged, throttle malfunction.
3. The carburetor and jets are clogged (the injectors are checked for the injector).
4. The fuel supply pump is faulty.
5. The air/fuel filter is worn out.
6. Failure of the electronic sensor MRV, TPS, DPKV.

The car shakes at idle

If vibration is transmitted to the car body, the first step is to check the wear of the power plant mounts. Squashed cushions do not reliably hold the engine in place, which causes severe shaking, deviation of the internal combustion engine from the nominal position and, as a result, vibration.

Other causes of shaking are described above.

The car shakes and jerks at idle

The process of engine tripping is a consequence of the malfunction of one or more cylinders. A similar breakdown is caused by a failure of the spark plug or a breakdown of the high-voltage wire.

1. With the engine running, remove the spark plug cap from the first cylinder.
2. After 3-4 seconds, install the element in place.
3. Consistently repeat the procedure for all boilers.

During the check, you must listen to the sound of the engine. If the growling gets worse (the system doubles), the compartment is fine. If the result is neutral (nothing has changed), it is worth checking the line completely for serviceability.

The primary source of failure may be the following reasons:

• incorrect mixture setting - the cylinder floods;
• spark plug or wiring is of poor quality;
• occurrence of rings;
• piston wear.

Diesel car jerks at idle

There can be only three reasons here.

1. The cylinder compression has dropped. As a rule, this occurs due to burnout of the cylinder head gasket and wear of the piston group elements.
2. Injector problems - poor mixture supply, blockages, intake failure.
3. Malfunction of the injection pump.

The car on gas jerks at idle

If a breakdown is detected, it is strictly not recommended to interfere with the unit yourself. You must contact a qualified gas fitter.

Interruptions on a cold engine

If the engine stalls at idle and then levels out after warming up, don’t worry too much. When cold, the power plant does not have normal clearances and can operate unstably. After reaching the design temperature, the motor stabilizes and stops twitching.

If the vibrations are strong and prolonged

When vibration in the engine does not disappear, but persists for a long time, this may indicate problems:

• wear of the piston group;
• violation of internal combustion engine fasteners;
• incorrect operation of the fuel system;
• ignition problems.

Transmission problem

The gearbox may well be the reason why the car jerks when starting off. However, there should also be other signs of a gearbox malfunction: difficulty shifting all or any one gear, a strange sound from this unit, etc. If this happens on the “mechanics”, then the problem is not so bad. In this case, the box itself can be repaired, and due to the simplicity of its design, repairs will not be so expensive. But if this problem is in the automatic transmission, then this is already serious.

The car jerks in first gear or second speed: fault diagnosis

As mentioned above, in such a situation, the first step is to gradually eliminate problems in the power supply system, ignition, as well as failures in the ECM. For example, a common reason when the car jerks at low speeds when engaging first and/or second gear is insufficient fuel/air supply to the engine or impaired mixture formation.

Various ECM sensors (Hall sensor, TPS, mass air flow sensor, etc.) can also malfunction. If everything is fine with the sensors, then you need to check the engine ECU. Quite often, the problem of jerking in 1st-2nd gear is directly related to the ignition. It is necessary to check the condition of the spark plugs and high-voltage wires, distributor and other elements on a particular machine.

As a rule, if the car drives jerkily, in relation to injection cars, specialists conduct comprehensive computer diagnostics of the engine. If such a check does not produce results or the cause is not found, then the vehicle’s transmission deserves special attention.

• So, if your car is noticeably jerky in 1st and/or 2nd gear, it is important to understand that the transmission may also be causing the car to jerk when driving. At the same time, it is easier to determine the cause in the case of a manual transmission, while various types of automatic transmissions require more serious checks.

Let's start with the manual transmission. Please note that if an inexperienced driver's car jerks in first gear when starting off, it should be taken into account that often beginners simply make mistakes when releasing the clutch, while the car itself is working properly.

To start without jerking, you need to smoothly release the clutch before the driver feels the grip point (the beginning of the transmission of torque from the engine to the wheels). After the force begins to be transmitted to the wheels and the car begins to move, you need to carefully add gas, dosing the traction with the pedal accelerator.

But jerking is usually caused by problems with the clutch on the manual transmission or its adjustments. For example, a car jerks in first and second when the clutch driven disc is badly worn, the clutch does not “close” completely, and slips. This leads to the car jerking when changing gears.

In this case, jerks most often appear precisely in “low” gears (first, second speed), when the smoothest possible operation of the clutch is needed and at the same time, through the clutch in these gears, a sufficiently large torque is transmitted from the internal combustion engine to the gearbox when accelerating the car.

• Now let's move on to automatic transmissions. First of all, you need to take into account that the quality of operation and smoothness of automatic transmission shifts will depend on the type of automatic transmission.

First of all, jerking can occur when driving with robotic gearboxes that have both one and two clutches. The fact is that the clutch of such gearboxes resembles in its design and principle of operation a conventional friction clutch of a manual transmission. Often the solution to the problem is to replace the DSG or AMT clutch, after which it is imperative to adapt the clutch (training, setting the grip point).

Also, in some cases, the culprit that the car jerks when driving in 1-2 gears may be breakdowns and malfunctions in the actuators that are responsible for the operation of the clutch in automated mode.

It should also be noted that the automatic transmission itself can “slip”, and the quality of its operation greatly depends on the level/condition of the transmission oil (ATF fluid). Jerking in automatic transmissions of this type may occur due to insufficient or overfilled oil, the use of a lubricant with unsuitable properties, etc.

Do they repair gearboxes?

In any case, you will have to go to a service station, where they will examine the car and issue a conclusion. If the automation fails, repairs will be quite expensive. However, if any gear from the mechanism breaks down, the box, in principle, can be disassembled and a separate element replaced, but this is also a rather painstaking and complex procedure, and it costs money.

Note that quite often service stations do not undertake to repair automatic transmissions at all. Often they are simply replaced, but there are craftsmen who agree to restore these units, which allows the owner to save money.

The gearbox is the main culprit for jerking when starting to move.

The gearbox becomes the main element that causes various troubles in the car, in particular jerks when starting to move. If you notice other transmission malfunctions, such as poor gear engagement or a hum from the unit during operation, you can be sure that it was the gearbox that was responsible for the jerking when starting the trip. It is interesting that for mechanics this is not so scary and expensive, but in this case the automatic machine can show the most unpleasant design features:

• failure of the automatic transmission itself can result in quite expensive repairs; you will have to perform a restoration, otherwise there will be problems;
• breakdowns of gears, their fastenings, forks and other mechanical parts of automatic transmissions are also not easy to repair; you will have to disassemble and inspect your gearbox;
• on average, the cost of simple disassembly and assembly of these components for not the most modern car models will be high; older automatic transmission designs are even more expensive;
• new CVTs, robotic boxes or other alternative automatic transmission options turn out to be very difficult to repair and require a lot of money;
• if the variator starts to jerk, it is quite possible that at a professional service they will offer you to simply replace the automatic transmission, it will not be cheap.

It should be noted that problems with the gearbox are quite difficult to repair. These units are often replaced, but you can find a repairman who will offer restoration. Most likely, you will be able to save money and make repairs. But it’s better to listen to the opinions of professionals with good service. Sometimes replacement will turn out to be a more economical and successful solution for any buyer, so deepen the diagnostics of the unit and calculate all possible options for this process.

Steering gear

If the steering mechanism is faulty, a similar problem can also occur. If the steering rack has any malfunction, it can create jerks when starting. In this case, the worn parts of the rack are simply replaced, and the problem disappears.

Also, the steering rack tips may have strong play. As a result, during a sharp start or braking, or increase in speed, so-called steering wheel wobble may occur. Bent tie rods result in a sharp jerk of the steering wheel to one side when starting off. This problem requires a quick solution.

Other elements of the steering system, including bushings and silent blocks, can cause the car to knock and jerk when driving. All this applies to the steering mechanism - it can be the reason why, for example, a GAZelle car jerks when starting off. But GAZelle is not the only brand where such breakdowns occur.

Note that problems with the steering mechanism are easier to solve than problems with the automatic transmission. However, the steering mechanism requires urgent repair for the safety of the driver and passengers.

Let's sum it up

It is very difficult to say unequivocally why jerks occur when the car starts to move. Sometimes this turns out to be a consequence of problems in the chassis and suspension. Otherwise, the culprits are the engine and gearbox. Sometimes it turns out that the steering system is to blame for these troubles. The mechanisms in modern cars are quite complex; they require high-quality maintenance and regular diagnostics. Each of the components listed above must be repaired in a timely manner if certain breakdowns and troubles occur in the vehicle.

If timely repairs are not provided, the system may completely fail and become simply uncontrollable. Jerks, jolts, shaking and vibration appear. It is better not to allow such problems to occur in the car. If you go to a service station on time and carry out detailed diagnostics of the vehicle, you will be able to find out the cause and fix the problem at a time when it has not yet caused difficulties in operating the car. You should not delay replacing suspension or gearbox parts - this can lead to even more serious damage. Have you ever had your car jerk when starting to move?

Engine

As sad as it is to admit, a problem with the engine also occurs when such problems occur in the operation of the car. If there is really something wrong with the engine, its speed should jump during sudden jerks. The engine itself can live its own life and respond weakly to the gas pedal.

What could cause the engine to run like this:

1. Wear of friction pairs, which requires major repairs. This requires a lot of investment.
2. Crankshaft wear. In this case, the car should not only start to move jerkily, but also make noise and knock from the engine.
3. Engine coking. In this case, decarbonization will be required, which can be done at a service station.

Note that engine-related problems are the most unpleasant and most often require a large investment.

Crankshaft and fuel

Wear on the crankshaft can also cause this type of problem. In this case, the movement of the car is accompanied not only by jerking, but also by knocking. Poor fuel quality can also cause jerking when starting. Some engines are sensitive to gasoline, so it is worth trying to fill with higher quality fuel at a different gas station and see if the same problem occurs when you change it. The problem may go away. Judging by the reviews of car owners on the forums, the malfunction really often lies in the low quality of gasoline, but this phenomenon is rare.

Fuel system

If the fuel mixture is supplied to the combustion chambers of the engine in the wrong amount, jerking may occur when driving. This can happen if the car owner fills the tank with poor quality fuel or gasoline that the car is not designed for. For example, if a Euro-4 or Euro-5 engine is supplied with fuel with a high sulfur content (92 gasoline), it will wear out quickly. Some injectors may also become clogged, causing the wrong amount of fuel to be delivered. This can lead to jerking at start, but the “symptoms” can be different: loss of power, detonation, increased gas consumption.

Is it due to the fuel filter?

So, it has been determined that the car jerks only under certain conditions. The fuel system pipes are all normal, but it is believed that the cause lies in the fuel system.

This means that the filters need to be checked next. Often it is because of them that this malfunction appears.

The task of any filter element in the fuel system is to clean the fuel from impurities, but at the same time, these impurities do not disappear anywhere, they remain in the filter itself.

Over time, it becomes so clogged with impurities and dirt that its throughput drops, and greatly.

As a result, the fuel pump pumps as expected, but the fuel does not have time to pass through the filter elements and the engine begins to “starve”, accompanied by the car jerking. There is only one way out - replace the fuel filter.

Carburetor cars.

If you take into account a carburetor car, then the number of filters it has is 2-3 pieces, but one of them, the usual mesh on the fuel receiver, can be practically discounted. This mesh is aimed only at catching large particles, so it is practically impossible for it to become clogged to such an extent that it stops the flow of fuel in the required quantity.

This mesh is aimed only at catching large particles, so it is practically incapable of becoming clogged to such an extent that it stops the flow of fuel in the required quantity.

But the second filter, usually located in the pipelines leading to the fuel pump, is worth checking.

This filter is designed to capture smaller particles, and it is not difficult for it to become clogged.

The third filter is not available on all carbureted vehicles and is usually located at the fuel inlet to the carburetor. It is also a regular mesh, but only fine.

This filter itself is small, so it often gets clogged.

Older machines had another filter installed - a coarse filter, also known as a sediment filter.

The design of this filter is such that it is not capable of becoming clogged to such an extent that it will not allow fuel to pass through. But this filter will subsequently cause rapid clogging of the fine filter.

If this filter accumulates a large amount of debris and dirt, then eventually it will not begin to clean the fuel from impurities, but, on the contrary, will begin to add them.

Injection car filters.

Most modern injection cars are also equipped with three filters. The first of them is a mesh for catching large particles installed in the neck of the tank. This mesh is clearly not the cause of the twitching.

The second filter is located on the fuel pump installed in the tank. This filter is also often a mesh, only with smaller cells; its task is to prevent large debris from entering the fuel pump.

It is also unlikely that it can cause a fuel shortage.

But the third filter, a fine filter, is located behind the fuel pump and is quite capable of becoming clogged to such an extent that the pump cannot push the required amount of fuel through it.

On more modern cars, there may be additional filters, which can also cause the car to twitch.

Problems with other elements

Quite often, Opel cars jerk when starting from a stop due to problems with the exhaust gas recirculation valve. This valve is a headache for many Opel owners with Ecotec engines. As a result of the formation of soot on the valve, it may simply become clogged, and then an incomprehensible mixture consisting of fuel, air and waste exhaust gases will enter the combustion chambers. This is fraught with loss of power, increased consumption and, possibly, jerks at start.

Therefore, it is very important to fill only high-quality gasoline, and not save on buying fuel suitable for your engine. The same can be said about oil. Under no circumstances should you fill in oil with the wrong viscosity or additives!

Checking VAZ-2107

Now let's take a closer look at how to identify the cause of such a malfunction on different car models.

The first will be the carburetor VAZ-2107; there are plenty of cases when the car suddenly starts to jerk while driving.

• First you need to inspect all pipes of the system for cracks;
• Open the tank. It happens that in the summer the lid fits very tightly to the neck, blocking the access of air to the tank. When moving, the pump works and creates a vacuum in the tank, due to which the same pump is then unable to “pull” fuel. It seems like a small thing, but this also happens;
• Inspect the fuel filter located in the pipes leading to the fuel pump. These filters are transparent and easy to visually evaluate;
• You can also check the fuel pump without removing it. It is necessary to disconnect the pipeline coming from the pump from the carburetor and lower its end into some container. Then manually pump the pump into action and evaluate how it pumps fuel - it should supply it in even portions;
• While the fuel pipe is disconnected from the carburetor, unscrew the fitting on which the fuel line fits and remove the small mesh filter, clean it and reinstall it;
• Next comes the carburetor. It is advisable to remove it from the car, rinse it thoroughly, and inspect the accelerator pump membrane.

If actions with the fuel system did not help, we proceed to checking the ignition system.

We unscrew the spark plugs, check their functionality, and replace them if necessary; We check the system wiring for breakdown. This can be done this way - in the dark or in a closed garage (the main thing is that it is dark), open the hood and start the engine. If there are voltage losses on the wiring, they will be immediately noticeable by the sparks that form. Next, we replace the wiring that “breaks through” and check the wire connections; Next, we check the distributor, there should be no signs of critical wear, it should be dry under the cover. Be sure to inspect the centrifugal regulator, and also check the vacuum regulator. You should check whether there is a vacuum in the pipe leading to it. Then the Hall sensor, coil and switch will be checked for functionality. You can do this yourself if you have the necessary equipment at hand, but you need to know how to check them. But you can contact an auto electrician

It is also important not to forget to check that the ignition is installed correctly

This is in general and all the features of identifying the cause of uneven running on the VAZ-2107.

"Brains" of the car

A special program decides in what proportion to mix fuel with air and feed it into the combustion chambers. If the program makes an error, then the engine will receive a mixture with an incorrect air/gasoline ratio, which can also cause the car to jerk when starting off. An oversaturated or undersaturated mixture may be fed into the combustion chambers, then a batch of normal mixture may enter the system, after which improper mixing occurs again - all of which can easily cause the car to jerk, both when starting and when driving at speed. This may also be accompanied by popping noises from the exhaust pipe or lack of engine response to the gas pedal.

The engine is the most serious problem of jerking when starting to move

And the last mechanism that can create unpleasant features while driving is the engine. It is very easy to distinguish between power unit jerks and problems with the suspension or steering, or even the gearbox. This is always associated with interruptions in the operation of the power unit or jerks in speed. The engine may not obey, live its own life, which does not depend on the control systems. The main problems of the power unit are as follows:

• wear of internal mechanisms, this can become a big problem that requires a major overhaul of the power unit and the investment of a large amount of money;
• crankshaft wear - in this case, when you start to move, you will hear unpleasant knocking noises and other effects that will tell you the problem is directly with the engine;
• clogged fuel injection system, this is especially true for injectors and gasoline injectors that become clogged with low-quality fuel;
• the need for high-quality maintenance, pouring fresh and high-quality oil into the crankcase of the power unit, a complete inspection and diagnostics of the engine;
• changing gas stations - it is quite possible that jerks at the start of movement and when changing gears are associated with very low fuel quality; for many units this is normal.

Japanese engines often suffer from troubles such as jerking and rough ride. At the moment of movement, the mixture may become oversaturated, or vice versa - a lean mixture may be injected into the combustion chambers. This sometimes causes popping noises from the exhaust pipe, sometimes a delay in the engine's response. Sometimes this becomes the cause of unpleasant jerks, which are discussed in our publication today. We suggest watching a short video explaining why the clutch can affect the smoothness of the ride:

How to prevent this?

The following tips are a little banal, but effective. At a minimum, you need to fill your car with high-quality gasoline with the correct octane number. The instructions for the car must indicate what fuel should be poured into the tank.

This also applies to oil. It is necessary to use only the lubricant recommended by the manufacturer. Taking into account the presence of counterfeit oils on the market and low quality fuel, it is necessary to change oils even more often than the car manufacturer recommends. At a minimum, after 8-9 thousand kilometers the lubricant must be replaced. This will extend the life of the motor.

In general, you need to operate the car carefully. If you put a heavy load on the engine at least once and heat it up to the “red zone” on the thermometer, then problems with the engine can arise constantly. In this case, jerking when starting is far from the worst problem.

Another reason for the growls

When you turn on the automatic transmission, the car jerks: the main reasons
The same jerks can appear after refueling with low-octane gasoline. On carburetor engines, the advance angle is set manually and is practically fixed. For normal operation of the engine on gasoline with a lower octane number, it will be necessary to install a “later” ignition.

The owner of a carburetor VAZ 21099 with LPG may encounter this problem. If for some reason he cannot fill the gas and is forced to drive on gasoline, then he has to change the advance angle setting. This is explained by the large difference in the octane numbers of propane and gasoline (for gas it is more than 100).

Engine Troubleshooting

After first jacking up the engine, the old, broken cushions are unscrewed. New ones are installed in their place.

Now, if the engine is misfiring, you must first determine what the reason is. This occurs due to a bad armor wire, a defective spark plug, or wear of one contact in the breaker-distributor. In the case of an injection engine, the injector may become clogged. You can determine which cylinder is not working in a simple way - by removing the armor wire from the spark plug one by one and listening to the engine reaction. If the engine starts to work even more irregularly, then this cylinder is in order. If, after removing the armored wire, it did not react in any way, then this particular cylinder is not working. Now, having identified the non-working cylinder, you can begin to find the cause of its failure and eliminate this problem.

Gear shift system - what can break?

It is very likely that the culprit of the chatter will be the lever itself or the system that is used to transmit the translational movements of the lever to the shift mechanism in the transmission. If the rattling occurs only on the lever, but is not transmitted to the entire body, most likely the problem is hidden in this module. If the car does not have a large engine crankcase protection, you can put the car on a lift or drive into a pit and inspect the elements yourself.

The following parts may break:

• seals in the lever itself - just remove the protective covers in the cabin and see what condition the rubber seals and bushings are in, whether there is any play in them, and also evaluate the source of the chatter;
• gear shift lever - in some brands of cars it is made in the form of a complex mechanism and often fails, small plastic bushings wear out and cause vibrations in the lever;
• gear selection fork - this again depends on the design of the car, but very often it turns out to be the cause of the lever rattling in first gear when starting to move, it is more difficult to see;
• connecting elements of the lever and the rocker - usually these are metal tubes with connections that tend to fail over time, so sometimes they need to be revised;
• fastening parts of the rocker - sometimes the device simply unscrews and begins to play, and there may also be problems with engaging some gears, the lever may jam.

These are common causes of lever rattling, but in such a situation the unpleasant sensations will be noticeable not only when driving in first gear. Each touch of the lever will bring unpleasant emotions; you will not recognize the behavior of your car. It will be difficult to find the moment to change gear and find out the correct amplitude of movement of the handle during the trip. Therefore, problems with these nodes need to be eliminated as quickly as possible, without expecting that something else serious and expensive will break.

Clutch Troubleshooting

If the drive malfunctions, you need to replace its damaged parts: the cable, or, if the clutch release drive is hydraulic, then worn rubber cuffs, springs, hoses, or the master and slave release cylinder assembly.

It is recommended to install the entire master or slave cylinder. Replacing the rubber cuffs will only solve the problem for a short time. After all, the working surface of the liner inside the cylinder is already worn out, and it will only accelerate the wear of the new cuff. After work, be sure to bleed the hydraulic system so that there is no air left in it. Because of it, the clutch release will not work correctly. If the diaphragm spring blades or vibration limiter damper springs break, the entire clutch and basket must be replaced. When installing a new unit, be sure to center the pressure disk.

This is done using a special mandrel or transmission input shaft for that vehicle. The mandrel is inserted into the pressure plate and diaphragm spring, and only then the clutch basket is screwed to the engine flywheel. Then it is tightened well and evenly to prevent the bolts from loosening during operation.

Steering wheel shaking when driving at speed

The most common shaking found in a car is vibration of the steering wheel (steering wheel) when driving at speed. It is noteworthy that such shaking of the steering wheel when the car picks up speed becomes even larger and more noticeable. As a rule, this vibration on the steering wheel is almost barely noticeable at first, but then, over time, it becomes more and more. Remember, friends, that vibration in the steering wheel can cause serious damage, which can lead to an accident as a result of your losing control.

Also, if you do not pay any attention to the vibration of the steering wheel, then in the future this can lead to rapid wear of many components of the car (from tires to transmission).

Therefore, remember, if there is vibration in the steering wheel in your car, then you must check the following elements in the car:

— Check wheel balancing. Take this to a tire shop to have the wheel balancing checked. Unbalanced wheels can cause strong vibration in the steering wheel, especially at speed. This is the simplest cause of steering wheel wobble, which can be eliminated without much expense.

— Replace shock absorbers or struts . Worn struts or shock absorbers can also cause the suspension to perform unevenly, causing your vehicle to shake. This shaking will be especially noticeable on uneven roads or at high speed.

— Check the strut support bearing . They are located on top of the shock absorbers. From the front you can check them yourself, they are located right under the hood. If they are worn out, then replace these components in the racks; they can cause vibration when driving at speed.

— Check and, if necessary, replace ball joints . Ball joints often become unusable due to uneven and bad roads. In our country, ball joints in cars last much less than those installed and operated in Europe. If these components have play, they often cause shaking when the machine moves.

— Check and, if necessary, replace the tie rod ends . Over time, steering tips also begin to “play” due to a certain amount of wear. Thanks to them, your wheels on the car turn parallel. If the steering lugs have deteriorated, the front wheels may no longer be parallel to each other, which will cause shaking (vibration) in the steering wheel.