Why does the car jerk when driving VAZ 2112 injector 16 valves

Quite often, when operating an injection or carburetor car, you may encounter that the engine jerks during acceleration. In other words, after sharply pressing the gas pedal, there is no clear response from the power unit, a pause-failure occurs, the speed increases in jerks, etc.

As for failure, that is, when the engine “stubs” during acceleration, there is a noticeable delay in the reactions of the internal combustion engine after the driver sharply presses the gas to increase the speed. Moreover, in both cases, when you smoothly press the gas pedal, the speed increases without jerks or delays, that is, quite predictably.

It is quite obvious that operating a vehicle with such faults is not only difficult, but also dangerous. While driving, there is no opportunity to overtake, quickly change lanes, etc. To solve the problem, the engine requires in-depth diagnostics, since it is first necessary to clearly determine the cause of the breakdown.

Next, we will talk about why an injection engine or carburetor engine jerks during acceleration, as well as what methods can be used to identify and fix problems that have arisen.

Read in this article

Why does the 16-valve VAZ-2112 twitch when driving at low speeds?

Many car enthusiasts have come across the concept that at high speeds the 16-valve VAZ-2112 behaves normally, but at low speeds it begins to twitch. There is no clear explanation of the appearance of this effect in the manufacturer’s repair manuals, but after browsing the forums and talking with experienced car owners, a solution was found.

In the video, eliminating the symptoms due to which the car jerks at low speeds:

What could have broken?

If the machine does not work, it means the motor is broken. This can often be heard from an inexperienced driver. But in a car, in addition to the engine, there are many different elements, on the serviceability of which the operation of the power unit depends. If the car is not completely “dead” and when the starter rotates it shows signs of life, “sneezes” or “shoots” into the exhaust pipe, the fault will be more difficult to find.

The malfunction that led to the engine shutdown is hidden in one of the three systems of the VAZ 2112:

electrical equipment and power supply;
fuel supply system;
gas distribution mechanism and piston group.

You must understand that if the level of coolant or oil in the crankcase is low, the engine will not stall; it may fail due to overheating or lack of lubrication. Therefore, it is important to recall the circumstances preceding engine failure. It’s one thing when the power unit just stopped moving, another thing if before that you heard extraneous knocks or shots in the exhaust. In the first case, the electrical part is probably to blame.

A sign of the second situation is often a broken timing belt, which is easy to detect by removing its upper plastic casing. The belt can be changed on the way if you have a spare one, otherwise you will have to look for a part or a towing company. If the starter cannot crank the engine when trying to start, there may be two reasons:

there was a breakdown in the generator circuit, and the voltage source was the battery, which as a result was discharged;
the crankshaft jammed due to lack of lubrication.

In both situations, you need to find a way to deliver the car for repairs; you won’t be able to do anything on the road.

Reasons for unstable operation of the VAZ-2112 at low speeds

General view of the 12-series engine

There are not many reasons that accompany the appearance of the jerking effect at low speeds. We can even say that everything is tied to the fuel supply system to the cylinders. So, it is necessary to identify all the reasons that are associated with the problem on the car:

The problem is hidden in the fuel system.
Incorrect throttle operation.
The crankshaft sensor has failed.
ECU.

Perhaps the reason for the car jerking is worth looking for here. When all the problems have been identified, it is worth moving on to searching for solutions to the problem.

VAZ injection engines

In injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, both 8-valve and with a timing belt with 16 valves, it is more difficult to identify the cause of the decrease in power due to the more complex design of the main systems.

Supply system

Any injector consists of a mechanical executive part and an electronic control part, and problems can arise in both of them, which will lead to a drop in power.

Let's look at the mechanical part first. Here, cravings can be influenced by:

Severely clogged mesh filter on the fuel pump;
Decrease in fuel pump performance due to wear;
The fine filter is dirty;
Malfunction of the fuel rail pressure regulator;
Clogged injectors;
Fuel filter dirty;
Air leak in the manifold.

In general, almost every element of the injector executive part can be the culprit for a decrease in dynamics.

The situation is approximately the same in the electronic component.

The operation of the engine with the injector is controlled by an electronic unit, which constantly monitors the parameters through sensors installed on different systems.

The number of these tracking elements is considerable and the breakdown of any of them leads to the fact that the ECU incorrectly evaluates the indicators on the basis of which it controls the executive part.

Thus, the lambda probe, DPKV, mass air flow sensor, DPZ, phase sensors, detonation sensors and coolant temperature sensors in the event of a breakdown lead to a decrease in power, so you will have to check all of them in search of the cause.

Ignition and exhaust system

As for the ignition system of injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112 and others, the reasons may be:

Candles;
High voltage wires;
Ignition module.

Another possible cause could be a misalignment of the generator drive pulley (with the ring gear).

Because of this, the DPKV readings are disrupted, as a result the operation of the ignition system is disrupted, which leads to a drop in traction.

In injection engines, the exhaust gas removal system more often creates this problem than in a carburetor car, and all due to the use of a catalyst.

The element's honeycombs have a small cross-section, so they become clogged quite quickly, which leads to exhaust gases “crushing” the engine.

Diagnostics and repair

Many motorists, unable to determine the cause on their own, turn to a car service for diagnostics. On the one hand, checking systems for operability should be done at a service station, and trusted to professionals, on the other hand, the price is too expensive, it goes to extremes. Therefore, we will consider options for solving the problem with your own hands in the garage.

Before we begin, it's worth understanding why this happens.

The answer is simple: the fuel mixture that gets into the cylinder is very lean or rich, which can lead to jerks in the operation of the power unit or completely stop working. The other side of the coin may be electronics that misunderstood commands or part of the assembly has failed.

Fuel system

Dismantled fuel rail with injectors

The first place to look for a fault in the fuel system is the injectors. It is their clogging that can cause the fuel mixture to be lean or rich, and therefore to solve the problem it is necessary to dismantle this element along with the fuel rail.

The injectors are checked and cleaned on a special stand. If this is not possible, then they are replaced with new ones. Also, it is worth diagnosing the fuel rail for breakdowns. The point is that if air leaks through it, this can cause the car to jerk.

The last option to resolve the issue is that incorrect operation of the fuel pump and lack of pressure in the fuel lines leads to the fact that the gasoline mixture is lean and the car begins to twitch at low speeds.

Throttle valve

Throttle valve before and after cleaning

Here, the main problem may lie in the throttle position sensor. So, if this element malfunctions, the electronic engine control unit receives a command to change the throttle position too late, when the car is already jerking. A sharp change in the amount of forced air, as well as a rich fuel mixture, become the causes of twitching.

Crankshaft sensor

Crankshaft sensor removed from engine

The crankshaft sensor can also cause the car to jerk. This effect was more common on the first models 2110-2112. Of course, in the second and subsequent generations this problem was eliminated.

The sensor gives the ECU contact information about the crankshaft speed, but if it breaks down, the data gets stuck in the last information provided. If you drop the speed from high to low, it turns out that the information has not reached the “brains”, but a lot of fuel is still supplied. Replacing the sensor solves this problem.

Program for eliminating ECU errors

Of course, where would breakdowns be without an electronic engine control unit? Thus, accumulated errors can cause many troubles. Experienced auto electricians call this effect a “glitch.” This is when the firmware can crash due to a critical accumulation of errors. Of course, as a result of this, many malfunctions can occur, but engine jerking is one of them.

The problem can be treated quite simply - resetting errors or installing new firmware. Of course, if you don’t know how to do this, then go to a car service center, where they will quickly, but not always cheaply, repair everything.

Self-resetting ECU errors using the instrument panel on a VAZ-2112

Communities VAZ Repair and Modification Blog 12shka twitches standard treatment or unexpected reasons

Replacing the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ-2112 16 valves with your own hands

Hi all. I decided to share a couple of observations in solving this problem. Quite recently on a community forum I asked the following question: the VAZ 2112 1.5 16v began to twitch at low speeds. 1-2 plugs and then picks up speed. Getting started was a real problem. The trouble did not arise abruptly. During the winter she came out and left from time to time. Over the last 2 weeks it has become constant. Plus, dullness of acceleration at medium speeds was added and, as a result, consumption was a plus. In general, the decision was made to replace the fuel filter. Well, I decided that there was no point in carrying out a replacement without inspecting the fuel pump and the mesh on it. According to the ABC book, I relieved the pressure in the system by removing the pump terminal and starting the car, and then took out the pump.

In general, after that I replaced the filter which, for obvious reasons, was up to its ears in dirt. I noticed an interesting nuance here. Before starting work, when I started the car to relieve pressure in the system, the car worked for at most 10 seconds, then I turned it purely with the starter as written in the book. The second time I had to release the pressure when a new filter and mesh were already in place. (The tube on the filter was leaking) So the second time the machine worked for 40 seconds! It responded perfectly to the gas pedal. Even when in doubt, I checked whether the pump terminal was disconnected. After that, it started up three more times and ran for about 10 seconds. And even after that, there was a little pressure left in the system. In general, this is how you can check the condition of the filter

If a car without a terminal on the pump stalls quickly, then you need to pay attention to the filter and the fuel pump. In short, I collected everything, drove it for a drive, the car became faster, but the failure did not go away. With the car running, if you jerked the throttle valve sharply, the engine seemed to choke at first and only then picked up speed

I checked all the sensors, cleaned the brain terminal, checked the air filter. Well, I decided to try changing the spark plugs. I started to remove the wires from them and I was confused that on the old wires, when I put them on and took them off, I could clearly hear the ringing click of the contact being put on. Nothing like this was heard on the new wires. I decided to test a stupid idea and threw in an old set of high-voltage wires and... everything disappeared! The engine began to respond instantly to the throttle and began to run smoother at idle. I was very surprised, I didn’t think that there could be a failure in any section of the gas. I would never have thought of them. To check, I installed new wires and the failure appeared again. After 2 days of driving, I clearly felt the return of traction at low speeds and the absence of failure at medium speeds, and no failures. In general, this is such a mysticism. I decided to share the information with you, maybe it will be useful for someone.Z, Y. I worked in the rain and was not in the mood to take pictures at all. Therefore, for clarity, I dug up photos on the net.

Z.Y.Y. I completely forgot! Don't forget to relieve pressure in the system! There are 2.5 kilograms! With such pressure, a gasoline shower is provided for the entire cabin. and even after resetting, I would advise unscrewing the filter tubes with glasses. The residual pressure just splashes into your eyes. Throw on any old glasses and you will look stylish in the process and your eyes won’t get hurt :):):):)…like mine

Why does the VAZ-2112 injector twitch when accelerating: symptoms and treatment

More than once, drivers encounter a problem when a VAZ-2112 begins to stall and twitch when accelerating. What is this connected with? The reason that unites all the factors remains the wrong gasoline mixture or its poor quality.

The video shows symptoms and treatment methods when the car jerks:

A front-wheel drive car of the VAZ family is considered.

Where is this part located?

It is located on the distributor. If a puncture in the regulator is detected, replacing the carburetor will not help either. Most likely, replacing the regulator will help solve the problem.

The next culprit for random car jerking could be the accelerator pump sprayer. To avoid damage, remove the diffusers and, by pressing the lever, evaluate the operation of the pump in each chamber. If at least one of them is unstable, then the VAZ-21124 compresses while driving. Removing the nebulizer completely to clean and purge will help solve this problem. After the procedure, the cleaned part should be reinstalled. If this was the root cause of the car's contractions, the problem is solved.

Main reasons

General view of engine 2112 16 valves

There are not many reasons why a car may twitch during acceleration, but motorists should know them. So, let's look at what problems contribute to this effect appearing :

Poor quality gasoline.
The problem is in the fuel pump or fuel system.
Failure of the mass air flow sensor.
Damage associated with the throttle valve.
The malfunction is hidden in the ignition.
The fault lies in the ECU.

The car twitches - methods of elimination

In order to eliminate the car jerking during acceleration, you will have to check each of the following systems step by step. Thus, a lot of work will need to be done. Therefore, some knowledge of engine design and other automotive systems will be required. So, let's consider the sequence of nodes in which a malfunction could occur that caused such an effect.

Poor fuel quality

A canister with a negative smiley face means low-quality gasoline

As you know, there are too many fakes on the modern petroleum products market. But this is not the worst thing, but the impurities and water contained in gasoline can lead to disruption of the engine, namely the fuel supply and injection system. Of course, at a gas station it is impossible to check the quality of gasoline that enters the fuel tank. So, even at proven and reliable gas stations you can run into low-quality fuel. The only way to protect yourself is regular diagnostics of systems. It is better to pay several times for inspection than once for repairs.

Fuel system

Fuel system diagram with explanation

As mentioned above, low-quality fuel causes clogging of the injection system. So, the fuel filter, gasoline pump or injectors may fail . Often, it is the latter malfunction that causes the car to begin to twitch during acceleration. Eliminating the cause is quite easy; to do this, you need to diagnose the fuel pump and replace the fuel filter. It is also recommended to clean the injectors or replace those that are faulty.

Mass air flow sensor and throttle

Mass air flow sensor

The DMVR and the throttle valve are inextricably linked, so diagnosing the condition of these elements should be carried out by everyone together. So, if necessary, it is worth replacing the mass air flow sensor or cleaning the throttle. This may help, but not always.

Power drop on a VAZ carburetor engine

To begin with, let's take VAZ cars with a carburetor power system and an 8-valve timing system - VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115.

The same power plant is installed on these cars, so the reasons are identical.

Let's go through those components, due to malfunction of which a drop in dynamics may occur.

In general, the main reason that the engine does not pull is a change in the processes in the combustion chambers - a mismatch in the proportions of the air-fuel mixture, the combustion process is disrupted, the filling of the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases does not occur as required.

Supply system

Very often, a drop in traction occurs due to the power system. Structurally, the carburetor fuel system used on cars from VAZ-2109 to VAZ-2115 is very simple and is almost completely mechanical, so identifying the cause is not particularly difficult.

A decrease in power can occur due to:

Severely clogged fuel filter (its throughput drops and the pump is simply not able to pump the required amount of fuel);
Contamination of the carburetor channels (the jets and fuel channels in this element have a small cross-section and debris often clogs them);
There is air leakage in the area from the tank to the pump (because of this, the performance of the fuel pump drops sharply);
Damage to the fuel pump membrane (a small crack in it leads to the fact that the vacuum required for pumping fuel is not created in the pump chambers);
The fastening of the carburetor or intake manifold is loose (due to this, air leaks around the carburetor and the proportion of the air-fuel mixture is greatly disturbed);
The hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged (because of this, a vacuum is created in the tank and it is much more difficult for the gas pump to pump gasoline out of it);

conclusions

Eliminating the cause of the twitching of the 16-valve VAZ-2112 during acceleration is quite difficult. Many car enthusiasts are unable to fix the problem and immediately turn to a car service center. The article discussed the main methods for troubleshooting, but there are times when the cause lies in the most unexpected place. So, it sometimes happens that engine wear becomes a problem of poor acceleration, and it can only be corrected with the help of a major overhaul and replacement of the piston.

Source

Checking the ignition system

Almost all car enthusiasts begin checking the 1.6-liter VAZ-2112 engine by testing spark plugs.
With their help, you can find a cylinder that is not working at full capacity. To do this, you must first remove the high-voltage wire from each cylinder one by one. When you touch a non-working cylinder with this, the nature of the operation of the power plant will not change. Next, do a spark test to rule out problems with the power supply to it. To do this, return the wire to the spark, place it on the engine so that the electrode does not touch it. Crank the starter until sparking appears. After this, look at the spark plug body and evaluate the signs as a whole.

If the spark is very weak, and the spark plug visually has a lot of carbon deposits, then the reason for this may be a non-functioning air filter. When it does this, dust gets on it, which mixes with oil and fuel.
If the electrode of the spark plug is intact, but carbon deposits have formed on its body, then there may be several reasons: incorrectly adjusted ignition (detonation is advanced), an error in choosing a spark plug, or a lean fuel mixture.
If only the electrode burns out, then the malfunction is hidden in excessive enrichment of the fuel mixture, incorrectly selected spark plug, low compression pressure, air filter impermeability, and delayed detonation.

Inspect the spark plug well; if you find oil in it, then you need to adjust the operation of the caps responsible for its supply. Most often, this malfunction requires replacing the valve stem seals. There should be no cracks on the spark plug body; if there is damage, replace the spark plug, even if it is visually intact.

Additionally, it is recommended to replace high-voltage wires, as they may have microcracks. In this case, the spark is weak, but the spark plug is visually intact. If this element is damaged, you must act according to the list above. The breakdown can be fixed by adjusting the ignition, power and air supply systems.

With a weak spark, the reason sometimes lies in the timing belt - it may be loosely tensioned, which is why it has shifted by several teeth. Also check the on-board computer; perhaps there is an error in its memory, which is why systems related to the power plant do not work correctly.

Main reasons

General view of the 2112 16 valve engine There are not many reasons why a car may twitch during acceleration, but motorists should know them. So, let's look at what problems contribute to this effect :

Poor quality gasoline.
The problem is in the fuel pump or fuel system.
Failure of the mass air flow sensor.
Damage associated with the throttle valve.
The malfunction is hidden in the ignition.
The fault lies in the ECU.

The car twitches - methods of elimination

Poor fuel quality

A canister with a negative smiley face means low-quality gasoline.
As you know, there are too many fakes on the modern petroleum products market. But this is not the worst thing, but the impurities and water contained in gasoline can lead to disruption of the engine, namely the fuel supply and injection system. Of course, at a gas station it is impossible to check the quality of gasoline that enters the fuel tank. So, even at proven and reliable gas stations you can run into low-quality fuel. The only way to protect yourself is regular diagnostics of systems. It is better to pay several times for inspection than once for repairs.

Fuel system

Fuel system diagram with decoding
As mentioned above, low-quality fuel causes clogging of the injection system. So, the fuel filter, gasoline pump or injectors may fail . Often, it is the latter malfunction that causes the car to begin to twitch during acceleration. Eliminating the cause is quite easy; to do this, you need to diagnose the fuel pump and replace the fuel filter. It is also recommended to clean the injectors or replace those that are faulty.

Mass air flow sensor and throttle

The mass air flow sensor
DMVR and the throttle valve are inextricably linked, so diagnosing the condition of these elements should be carried out by everyone together. So, if necessary, it is worth replacing the mass air flow sensor or cleaning the throttle. This may help, but not always.

Ignition

Ignition System Kit Replacement Parts
Experience has shown that an acceleration problem may be hidden in the ignition system. In order to correct the malfunction, it is worth diagnosing the spark plugs and high-voltage wires, where the problem may lie. For the first, you need to unscrew them from the block and look for the presence of carbon deposits or oil in the spark plug wells. If necessary, replace the spark plugs, after reading the article on selection and then checking the gaps using a special feeler gauge.

High-voltage wires should be checked for breakdowns or damage to the ignition.

So, for diagnostics, a tester is used that checks the resistance of each wire. If it is discovered that one BB wire has failed, it must be replaced. The manufacturer recommends replacing all wires in one set, having first checked them with a multimeter.

ECU errors

List of engine control unit errors

Often, as practice shows, failures during acceleration can appear if errors have accumulated in the electronic engine control unit.

So, to fix the problem you will need to reset all the errors that have accumulated. If this does not help, then you should change the firmware. This type of problem elimination only works when all other causes have been eliminated, but the effect remains.

Self-diagnosis video

Why is it stupid? Basic faults

Type of VAZ-2112 engine

There are not many reasons for the effect when the 16-valve engine on the VAZ-2112 16 valves stalls. Of course, you will have to tinker a little in order to find the true reason in one case or another, but otherwise there is a direct road to a car service center. For those who have decided to repair their car themselves, this information will be useful.

So, let's look at the main reasons for this effect:

We clean the sensor from dirt and dismantle it.

The main reasons are considered, and you can move on to solving these problems.

Methods for solving the problem

To eliminate failure during overclocking, you need to check all the components listed below step by step. This is a considerable amount of work, but the car enthusiast will be able to save a sufficient amount of money, which would have been charged to him at a car service center. Of course, for those who don’t understand the design of a car, that’s the way to go, or ask your friends who will fix the problems for half the price. But, if you follow the instructions, you can figure it out yourself.

Poor quality fuel

Poor quality fuel is a common cause of engine breakdowns

Of course, in our country, low-quality fuel causes many misfortunes and troubles for motorists. It is not possible to check the fuel at a gas station, so everyone is already struggling with the consequences. The only thing that can be done is to carry out regular diagnostics and cleaning of the fuel system.

Fuel system

Injectors on the fuel rail removed from the engine

The first line of engine protection is fuel filters, which sometimes fail and not enough fuel gets into the engine. On the other hand, when completely clogged, the injectors are clogged, which at low speeds give a normal amount of mixture, but if the engine is accelerated, the amount of mixture remains the same and a failure appears at low speeds.

The way out of the situation is to replace the fuel filter, clean or replace the gasoline pump mesh, and diagnose and replace failed injectors. The latter usually go through a cleaning stage, but this does not always help and they have to be replaced.

Throttle valve

Cleaned throttle body

A stuck throttle valve and insufficient air supply can cause the engine to become sluggish when accelerating. This is due to a non-optimal fuel mixture. In this case, the solution to the problem is cleaning.

Ignition system

High voltage wires of the ignition system

Another reason that the car began to stall while accelerating could be interruptions in the ignition. So, it is necessary to check the spark plugs and high-voltage wires where breakdowns could occur. If necessary, damaged parts must be replaced. The manufacturer recommends replacing everything in sets.

ECU errors

List of electronic control unit errors

The last problem is that errors occur in the electronic engine control unit. If there is a large accumulation of errors, this can affect the operation of various vehicle systems. Therefore, as practice shows, resetting ECU errors leads to normalization of the operation of the power unit.

VAZ 2110 SHOOTS WHEN ACCELERATING Why does the VAZ 2110 move jerkily?

VAZ 21102, 2001 The following symptoms began to appear and disappear (!): When accelerating at exactly 1500 rpm, the car stalls and jerks, just above the rpm it shoots out. But in cold weather of -15 -20, if I pinch the hoses, won’t I break anything? I let off the gas and everything is fine, after which the pedal goes to the floor again and it doesn’t twitch. Averau5, my injectors on cylinders 2 and 3 are worn out and leaking. At first xx became unstable, then it began to triple and double on xx, and on the move, if the slipper was on the floor, it began to triple.

Jerks when cold

Failure in the third pot - 1. replace the explosive wire with a known good one from another car or cylinder (spark plug)2. A jerk when starting off occurs when the ECU (electronic control unit) gives a signal to start opening the throttle valve, that is, when transitioning from the XX mode to the driving mode. In this case, the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors should increase, which does not occur if there is insufficient pressure in the fuel line. There, the jerking while driving and during acceleration may be due to the mixture being too lean. But this should be shown by diagnostics in the service.

Many owners of the VAZ 2110 note that jerks occur when cold, and after warming up, the car gets into a rhythm while driving and stops “sausaging”. Hello! The problem is this. At approximately these speeds, the adsorber solenoid valve begins to “chatter.” It can be assumed that it “hangs” and the mixture becomes sharply leaner. The problem has not gone away, I will try to sort out the pressure in the ramp according to your advice. If you have some skills, you can determine the cause of jerking yourself.

While driving

Sometimes the engine even stalls. In complete darkness, the spark during breakdown is clearly visible. A specific cause of jerking during steady motion of a car with an injection engine may be a failure of the throttle position sensor. Everyone can participate in the discussion about the causes of the malfunction and other problems. If you know what to answer, write and thereby help other VAZ 2110 owners in searching for the truth.

During the start

Most often, when starting from a standstill, the highest stage of the jerk is observed - failure, that is, a very significant delay in the engine’s response to the pressed gas pedal. It happens that the engine stalls. It’s especially unpleasant when you’re standing, for example, in front of a traffic light, and someone behind you is already honking, and you’re frantically starting the car again.

A jerk when starting off occurs when the ECU (electronic control unit) gives a signal to start opening the throttle valve, that is, when transitioning from the XX mode to the driving mode.

You can read about common throttle valve malfunctions in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/pitanie/drosselnaya-zaslonka.html

Throttle position sensor

In this case, the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors should increase, which does not occur if there is insufficient pressure in the fuel line.

Potential culprits for the car moving jerkily when starting off:

fuel pump, which is about to completely fail. This is evidenced by its peculiar periodic “howling” or an increase in its noise. The pump on an injection engine is listened to even before the engine itself is started - it is turned on initially from the battery, starting to pump fuel before turning on the starter. It is located inside the gas tank, so it becomes almost inaudible once the engine is running. In carburetor cars, the fuel pump is under the hood, you can hear it even when the engine is running;
The fuel pump mesh is clogged with foreign particles that enter the gas tank along with low-quality gasoline at the gas station, or are formed in the tank itself due to condensation. This is why the gas tank should be flushed periodically;
fuel filter, which is located under the hood. It also needs to be changed periodically;
pressure regulator. To replace it, you will need to remove and disassemble the fuel pump.

The first step is to check what pressure the fuel supply system produces. The check is carried out using a pressure gauge. It connects to a fitting located on the fuel rail (under the hood). We cannot give uniform readings, since it is different on different engines.

For some, a pressure below 325 kPa can be considered normal, while for others it is 400 kPa. That is, you need to look specifically at your instruction manual.

Engine power system

If the pressure gauge readings are too high, it means there is a malfunction in the fuel pressure regulator. If the readings are too low (less than 284 or 364 kPa, again, depending on the engine), replacing the fuel filter will help.

Prevention is better than repair

But first of all, it is necessary to find an answer to the question of why the VAZ-21124 jerks during acceleration. On the face of it, it doesn't seem like a very ordinary question. But in fact, such twitching becomes not funny at all. You start to feel especially creepy when the VAZ-21124 jerks during acceleration and the check light comes on. Trouble has become reality.

It has long been known that any breakdown is easier to prevent than to fix. Therefore, try to pay more attention to your vehicle while driving. And here a problem arises: not every driver can feel the car and determine the cause in time.

You should immediately decide on the sequence of actions:

Checking the car for twitching while idling is unacceptable. This should only be done when moving.
The check should begin on the smoothest and least dangerous section of the route, where there is no heavy traffic.
To check, start shifting gears one by one by pressing the gas pedal on each gear.
If the vehicle begins to jerk without your participation, therefore, the root cause of the problem must be sought in this problem.

While driving

It is also an unpleasant situation when the car has jerks and dips during acceleration. This can happen both when driving and when starting off. A particularly unpleasant, or even dangerous, situation can arise while driving, for example, when a car is about to overtake, and then there is a sudden failure.

The causes of jerks during acceleration can be both those already mentioned and slightly different ones:

If you have a carbureted car that jerks when accelerating, this may indicate that the ignition is too early. You need to set the lead angle. And checking the ignition timing is quite simple: at speed 4, accelerate to 50 km/h and brake sharply. If detonation lasts 1-2 seconds, then the ignition is set perfectly, the reason is not there;
on “injectors” everything is controlled electronically. There, the jerking while driving and during acceleration may be due to the mixture being too lean. But this should be shown by diagnostics in the service. If the sensors “know about this, but are silent,” then it is quite possible that they themselves are faulty and must be replaced.

Why does the VAZ 2110 twitch while driving?

In ancient times, in Slavic and Germanic dialects, when denoting the number of countable objects that exceeded ten units of something, units were first indicated, and then only tens. This state of affairs has been preserved in some modern languages, in particular in German and Dutch, but in Slavic languages it has changed to the opposite (first ten, and then one), but only starting from 21.

It's hard to say why this happened. Most likely, the attitude towards the score itself played a role here. In ancient times, the discovery of each new numeral was a breakthrough for the development of human consciousness, and only then became a “matter of technology.” New numerals were sometimes described using existing ones, for example, there is an opinion that 8 was designated as “twice four,” and only then did this phrase lose its original meaning, turning into one word. Much later, already in the first millennium AD, in ancient Germanic dialects 11 was designated by the phrase “one postponed” or “one remained,” 12 as “two postponed,” and only starting with 13 they said “3 is more than ten.”

This is all a hoary story, full of mysteries, but we need to know that the word ELEVEN came from the phrase “one in ten,” which can be learned from the Etymological Dictionary:

The reason for the twitching is the control unit

The supposed cause of the jolts lies in the gear shift. It is quite difficult to understand the essence of twitching.

Therefore, if you notice that the VAZ-21124 twitches when accelerating or driving, it is better to contact a car repair shop for diagnostics. The auto center will easily help you determine the cause, since it is much easier to see the problem on a lift. The movement of the car at idle allows you to understand not only why the car is constantly pushing, but also to track the smoothness of the revolutions. Sometimes this problem is much more complex than it seems, and to detect it, you will need to create special operating conditions, which is completely impossible to do while driving.

Bad fuel

Unfortunately, low-quality fuel can often be the cause of failures during acceleration. For example, if there is water in it. Of course, an engine running on such fuel will run intermittently. There are two ways out. If you are “lucky enough” to fill a full tank with such “fuel”, then it is better not to be lazy and drain it so as not to ruin the injectors and fuel pump. Or be patient and simply produce low-quality gasoline or diesel.

If the fuel pump is worn out or clogged, the receiver screen can also cause rough engine operation.

Malfunctions of the power supply system, ignition and impaired mixture formation

While problems with spark plugs and filters can be identified on the road, more serious problems associated with the power and ignition system are much more difficult to diagnose and fix on site. In cases where the engine does not pick up speed, and jerks and dips are noted when pressing the gas pedal, it is necessary to check and adjust the carburetor or injector.

Let's focus on the more common electronic injection. The list of main malfunctions of modern injection internal combustion engines includes:

malfunctions, decreased performance or contamination of the fuel pump mesh filter;
malfunction of injection nozzles;
problems with ECM or ECU sensors;
ignition system malfunctions;
air leaks and leaking fuel lines;

Often, on many cars, problems are associated with the fuel pump, which is located in the gas tank, as well as with the specified regulator. To measure fuel pressure, a pressure gauge is connected to the rail; the obtained values are compared with those recommended for a particular engine. If the pressure is below normal, then the culprit may be either the fuel pump or the pressure regulator.

The regulator's task is to discharge excess fuel into the return line at a time when the pressure is higher than normal. If the settings are incorrect or the regulator itself is leaking or faulty, then the fuel will be discharged into the return line ahead of time. To check this, air is pumped in with a compressor or pump, and the pressure in the rail increases. If the regulator operates earlier than the recommended pressure, the element must be adjusted or replaced.

Air leaks and sensors

As you know, the injection engine is equipped with an electronic engine control system (ECM), which completely controls the operation of the power unit. This system is actually multiple sensors and a controller (ECU). Based on sensor readings, the control unit adjusts the SOP, increases or decreases the amount of fuel supplied, prepares a fuel-air mixture that will be optimal for a particular engine operating mode, etc.

If the signal is incorrect, then fuel supply may not be implemented correctly. In this case, a failure appears, which the driver feels in the form of a delay in pressing the gas, that is, a failure. Note that such failures are especially relevant on those cars with an “electronic” gas pedal. In other words, there is no direct connection to the throttle body.

Let us also add that the throttle valve must be cleaned periodically, and also on many cars it is necessary to carry out the procedure for adapting the throttle valve after cleaning this element. To avoid problems, experienced drivers clean the throttle valve at least once a year. This procedure is performed for preventive purposes.

In garage conditions, when there is no diagnostic equipment, checking electronic sensors is carried out by elimination; a multimeter tester is used for diagnostics.

As for air leaks, this phenomenon may well lead to jerks and failures during acceleration. If excess air is sucked in somewhere, then the ECU loses the ability to correctly determine the amount of air entering the engine.

What's the result?

As you can see, the engine can jerk during acceleration for a number of reasons. If replacing “consumables” (spark plugs, armored wires, filters), as well as standard scheduled procedures (cleaning the injector, adjusting the carburetor, setting the OZ, etc.) do not produce results, then you should also check the timing belt or chain, that is, the installation valve timing.

In such a situation, urgent diagnosis of the gearbox is necessary. It is easier to deal with a manual transmission by replacing the clutch disc, pressure plate or the entire assembly. On vehicles with a classic torque converter automatic transmission or manual transmission (robotic gearbox), if jerking occurs, you must stop using the vehicle.

Then you need to check the oil level in the automatic transmission and its condition. Next, diagnostics of electronic components, actuators, etc. will be required. You also need to be prepared for the fact that the gearbox (as a rule, this applies to automatic transmissions) in many cases will need to be disassembled for troubleshooting and subsequent expensive repairs.

As a result, jerks and dips appear when accelerating, and the car jerks in motion during transitional conditions. Causes and troubleshooting.

Purpose, design features, installation location of the fuel pressure regulator of an injection engine. Signs of RTD malfunctions, checking the device.

What to do if the car accelerates worse, does not pick up speed, or has failures during acceleration. Why the engine does not pull, how to find the reason for the decrease in power.

Why the engine may not pick up speed: gasoline engine, diesel unit, car with LPG. Fault diagnosis, useful tips.

The most common reasons why an engine does not develop full power. Why do they occur? Common problems with gasoline and diesel engines.

Signs of a non-working cylinder (tribbing and vibration) of a diesel engine. Troubleshooting: compression, diesel injectors, glow plugs, injection pump and others.

How to cure a car?

First you need to diagnose the fuel pump:

remove the cover from it and carefully inspect visually, paying special attention to the area near the valve;
If there is no o-ring, take corrective action.

In this case, the fuel pump depressurized and interruptions in the fuel supply began to occur. This is exactly what is causing the car to malfunction. After the seal is restored, the VAZ-21124 (16 valves) will begin to move smoothly along the road again. You can replace the O-ring yourself, the main thing is to find the right ring and tools.

Carburetor problem

And although new cars no longer use carburetors, old ones still drive using these engine fuel systems. These are quite problematic systems that constantly become clogged. Many service stations offer carburetor cleaning services, after which the engines on many cars come to life. However, you can clean the carburetor yourself - there are special aerosol cleaners for this. The difficulty lies only in removing the system, although if you have the tools there should be no problems.

The car jerks - check the spark

Often a car malfunction is associated with the formation of a spark, which is why it begins to behave strangely.

The easiest way to identify this problem is when descending from a hill or on a fairly flat area. To prevent this cause, it is necessary to check the spark plugs (VAZ-21124). If they fail, overheat or become unstable, replace them. The price of spark plugs (VAZ-21124) is about 700 rubles per set.

So, what should you do if the car starts to jerk when you press the gas. In order to fix the problem, you will have to find it first. For example, if the car runs on gas, the problem may lie in the vacuum regulator.

Eliminate jerking when the car is moving steadily

If a Chevrolet Niva or Niva 21214 exhibits twitching during stable movement, this most often happens due to problems with the ignition system. You can often hear car owners complaining that they just installed new spark plugs, but the engine has already failed. Detonation can occur even with new spark plugs due to incompatibility with the engine. If the spark plug fails, then the fuel will not burn completely, and breakdowns will begin in the operation of the power unit.

Checking the spark plugs is quite easy. The first thing you need to do is:

Check the level of gaps on the unscrewed spark plugs. Check for any irregularities in the sparking process.
A working spark plug produces a dark blue spark.
If there is black carbon on the spark plug, then the problem may lie in a faulty ignition or faulty mixture formation.

If checking the spark plugs does not bring any results, you should check all wiring for oxidation and breakdowns. Don't forget about the coil and toggle switch. All elements of the ignition system, as in the case of a problem in the power system, are thoroughly inspected and checked for correct operation.

The gearbox jerks - why and what to do?

First, let's divide the problem into two components. The first includes a gearbox design in which the driver himself controls the gear shift. The second includes all kinds of robots, automatic machines and CVTs. It should be noted that jerking while driving is not only unpleasant for the driver and passengers, but also extremely harmful to the vehicle’s transmission.

You need to immediately eliminate problems caused by engine twitching. This is sometimes not easy to do. After all, the “Check engine” symbol on the instruments does not always light up. Most often, uneven engine operation is caused by misfires in individual cylinders. The reasons may be different - leakage of unaccounted air, malfunction of spark plugs with nozzles, leaking valves, and decreased compression. A malfunction of the speed sensor and defects in the idle air control coupled with malfunctions of the throttle position sensor can also confuse the electronic engine control unit. Well, the quality of the fuel cannot be discounted, as well as the water entering the cylinders through the entire fuel path.

In other words, it is impossible to say unequivocally that it is the gearbox that is pulling. The engine can also make its own contribution, so I don’t recommend starting to repair the gearbox without a thoughtful diagnosis of the engine.

Another reason for jerking of the entire power unit, not related to the operation of the gearbox, is the failure of the supports. With damaged supports, even under normal loads, the entire unit will twitch, transmitting these vibrations to the body.

Manual transmissions

In the case of mechanics, twitching most often occurs when the engine is not warmed up. This should not be considered a defect, but you should try to avoid driving in such modes.

Jerks when shifting gears create shock loads on gears, couplings, shafts, and gearbox bearings. Chips and other damage to these expensive and difficult to repair transmission parts are possible. Often, jerking is caused by wear of the clutch mechanism, which, when used in the city or, conversely, on very rough rural roads, experiences excessive loads.

Jerking is possible due to the following driver errors when controlling the gearbox and clutch:

Squeezing and releasing the clutch pedal with the moment of gear shifting is incorrectly coordinated;
switching at too high engine speeds;
shock pressing of the gas pedal after changing gear;
driving in a gear that is too high for a given speed, when the tachometer is less than 1200–1500 rpm, and trying to accelerate from that speed in the same gear.

Automatic transmission

Automatic transmissions of various types are very complex mechanisms in terms of design. Reliable and trouble-free operation of such boxes can be ensured by constantly monitoring the health of the unit, regularly performing preventive inspections and providing quality service. Keep in mind that even a minor malfunction that the owner ignored and did not contact specialists on time can be the reason for the complete failure of this expensive device.

Let's start with single-clutch robotic gearboxes. They have all the defects described for manual transmissions. Plus, there are suboptimal algorithms written in the software. And they, in my opinion, cannot be optimal: too many external and internal factors affect the operation of this unit. Modern electronics are simply not able to take everything into account and adapt the operation of the gearbox.

For an active driver in a metropolis, such a transmission adds nothing but gray hair. I think that it is better to manually change gears on a conventional manual transmission than, so to speak, an automatic transmission.

Program for eliminating ECU errors Of course, where would breakdowns be without an electronic engine control unit. Thus, accumulated errors can cause many troubles. Experienced auto electricians call this effect a “glitch.” This is when the firmware can crash due to a critical accumulation of errors. Of course, as a result of this, many malfunctions can occur, but engine jerking is one of them.

The problem can be treated quite simply - resetting errors or installing new firmware. Of course, if you don’t know how to do this, then go to a car service center, where they will quickly, but not always cheaply, repair everything.

Self-resetting ECU errors using the instrument panel on a VAZ-2112

VAZ 2115 is gaining momentum poorly and fuel consumption has increased

Not so long ago, about six months ago, I decided to switch from the classic VAZ 2107 to a front-wheel drive car. I spent a long time choosing at the car market and settled on Pyatnashka, since the car was in pretty good condition for its 7 years and was not even damaged, all the seams and welding were factory. Almost everyone was happy with the car, but for some reason it didn’t pick up speed well, it felt like someone had blocked the exhaust pipe. Although, the engine worked just perfectly, no breakdowns or interruptions in the operation of the engine were heard, and the exhaust pipe was just perfect, rusty in color. I drove around with this problem for probably five months, after which I finally decided to figure out what was the matter.

I searched for the cause for a long time, did computer diagnostics of the engine, ignition and injection systems, but the diagnostics showed that all automotive systems were in perfect order. The fuel pump worked properly, the electronic engine control unit also showed no abnormalities, all four spark plugs were in perfect condition, and the compression was almost like a new car. But all this did not reassure me, since it was as if the car was being held by someone by the tow bar, and was not moving, and that was that. After a long inspection at the service center, they found nothing and offered to change the ECU. They took the ECU from another fifteenth model directly from the service center and installed it, but still nothing changed, and then the service workers no longer knew what to do, and they had to continue to look for the reason themselves.

Then, after another couple of weeks, I somehow had to go out of town, to the village to visit relatives, and gave my wife’s brother a ride in his VAZ 2115. He got behind the wheel, started up, and then I heard a strange sound from the exhaust pipe. It’s just that before, when I was driving, this sound could not be heard. And then I realized that this strange sound from the muffler was most likely the reason that my VAZ 2115 was gaining momentum poorly, and because of this, fuel consumption was higher than average.

After that, I removed the muffler and shook it in the air, and the clatter of metal inside was barely audible. And then I realized that most likely, some part inside the muffler burned off and fell so that it blocked the entire path for the exhaust gases to escape. This is precisely the reason why the thrust of my Fifteen was not so hot, the acceleration was sluggish, and the fuel consumption was high. There was no point in repairing the muffler, since it is not dismountable, as you know. I had to buy a new one and replace it. The replacement was inexpensive, especially since I changed it without outside help, in my own garage. And after replacing the muffler, the problem went away, the car started driving like an airplane, the acceleration was just crazy, there was more than enough thrust, and the consumption became much lower. All it took was replacing the muffler of your car!

Crankshaft sensor

Crankshaft sensor removed from the engine The crankshaft sensor can also cause the car to jerk. This effect was more common on the first models 2110-2112. Of course, in the second and subsequent generations this problem was eliminated.

The sensor gives the ECU contact information about the crankshaft speed, but if it breaks down, the data gets stuck in the last information provided. If you drop the speed from high to low, it turns out that the information has not reached the “brains”, but a lot of fuel is still supplied. Replacing the sensor solves this problem.

Source

So what happens to the car?

Often everything happens according to a standard scenario: you get behind the wheel, turn the ignition key, and the engine starts working as usual. However, as soon as you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine speed immediately begins to drop. It should be noted that in this situation, the idle speed sensor still produces the nominal number of turns. Under all these circumstances, the idle speed jumps, creating distorted operation of the car as a whole. Due to detonation of the propulsion system, which occurs against the background of idle speed surges, the most unpleasant, but quite natural thing happens - the engine stops working and the car stops.

Clogged throttle valve

Usually the situation returns to normal after another attempt to start the engine and set the car in motion - everything falls into place, and you can safely follow the intended path. However, such an incident can be considered the first bell, since in the future such an emergency situation will again take you by surprise. Therefore, at the first manifestations of such a problem, you should immediately address them. Before you begin to troubleshoot problems, it is worth finding out the true cause of their occurrence.

External and internal CV joints

The next reason why the car jerks when starting off may be the inner and outer CV joints.

Internal CV joints transmit forces from the box to the car's axle shafts, and then to the wheels, which makes them quite important elements in the suspension system. Considering that these parts are systematically subjected to heavy loads, they may fail. The presence of a malfunction can be determined by the following signs:

The CV joint turns when starting to move and there is play. Because of this, the car may jerk when starting from a stop.
On the road, the CV joint may knock. Moreover, the road can be perfectly smooth.
When turning, you can hear the crunch of the outer CV joints; when they wear out, they can also turn and create jerks when the car starts moving.
Outer CV joints most often fail due to driving on bad and uneven roads.

It follows that the first malfunction, due to which the VAZ-2110 car jerks when starting off, can be the CV joints. They are the first to be checked at a service station when a driver contacts a mechanic with a similar problem. Replacing these elements is quick, easy and most often does not cost a lot of money if we are talking about a domestic car and not a rare foreign car. Moreover, some car owners can replace the CV joints themselves; for this you will need a pit in the garage, a small set of tools and new CV joints, which are sold in almost any car store.

Diagnostics using ODB-2 scanner

Since there are many reasons for the malfunction, first of all it is worth carrying out a comprehensive diagnosis of the car. This can be done most quickly using an ODB2 scanner.

Scan Tool Pro Black Edition

A special feature of Scan Tool Pro is the diagnosis of not only the engine, but also other vehicle components (gearbox, transmission, abs, etc.). After reading the errors, you will most likely know exactly the cause of the malfunction (problem in the pump, pressure regulator, lean fuel mixture, malfunction of one of the sensors), after which you should first pay attention to this element. The scanner is compatible with most models of the domestic automobile industry since 1993 and is designed specifically for the CIS - error codes with their interpretation are displayed in Russian.

Oil pump

In fairness, it is worth noting that the pump very rarely fails. Depending on the design, the pump can be installed in one of two places:

directly behind the valve body;
below on the pallet, unwinding with a chain from the drive shafts of the automatic transmission.

The design of the pump is very reliable, however, if there is mechanical damage or a manufacturing defect, it can also break. Accordingly, under such conditions, the transmission fluid will stop circulating at operating pressure or at all. The pressure will drop, which will lead to jerking when shifting gears, and in critical cases - complete failure of the gearbox.

Lada Kalina, VAZ 21099

When operating the Lada Kalina, jerking may occur when driving. They can occur when starting off, during acceleration, or during normal driving.

In most cases, to identify the cause, you need to diagnose the ECU at a service station, but there are situations when you can solve the problem yourself.

Below we will consider possible solutions for different situations that can be applied to other cars, for example, VAZ 21099 injector.

When starting to move

The reason is the slow response of the engine to pressing the accelerator. A jerk appears at the moment the throttle opens, when the sensor of this unit transmits information to the ECU.

Next, the electronic unit determines the moment of transition from the idle mode to the load and makes a decision to add fuel.

When there is a shortage of pressure in the fuel supply system, jerking occurs.

During acceleration

Here the reason is the same as in the case discussed above. When you press the gas, due to lack of pressure, less fuel is supplied to the engine than necessary.

While driving

Such problems are often caused by breakdowns in the ignition system. To check the version, do the following:

open the hood;
turn off the ignition;
check the quality of the wires;
start the engine and listen to it for the presence of a crackling sound/breakdown;
change the spark plugs and inspect their condition, and if problems are identified, make repairs.

The cause of jerking when driving the Lada Kalina may be a breakdown of the sensor that displays information on the throttle valve.

The problem can be identified by uneven operation of the motor and a decrease in its power. The only way out in this case is to replace the faulty element.

Messages 5

1 Topic by denix 2016-05-13 21:35:49

denix
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Registration: 2016-05-13
Posts: 24 Thanks : 0
Car: VAZ 2110

Topic: VAZ 21104 jerks at low speeds

Help me get rid of the car jerking, I’ve already double-checked everything. Rail pressure 4, DPS is normal, MAF is normal, coils are normal. I connected to the computer only the injection duration was not normal, but I don’t know how to fix it, I cleaned the throttle. I don’t know where to dig anymore, please help me, attached is a photo from the diagnostic program

tkr-rxvx0Ug.jpg

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2 Reply from “Robotron” 2016-05-13 23:22:39

"Robotron"
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Registration: 2015-11-22
Messages: 292 Thanks : 81
Car: VAZ - I turn it myself