Do-it-yourself carburetor adjustment for VAZ 2109 video

The majority of VAZ cars of the Samara family, and in particular the VAZ-2109, came off the assembly line with a carburetor power system, and only later a small series received injectors. The carburetor system has a simple design and is quite reliable, but its main component, the carburetor, requires periodic adjustment. The VAZ-2109 and other models of the family were equipped with Solex carburetors, characterized by a relatively simple adjustment technology that every car enthusiast can perform.

There are two main carburetor settings - the fuel level in the float chambers and the engine speed at idle (idle). These adjustments are carried out when the engine is unstable at idle and when certain symptoms of improper operation of the power system appear:

These problems indicate that the fuel level in the chamber is not normal.

Setting the fuel level

Adjusting the amount of fuel in the chambers of Solex carburetors is a simple procedure and does not require specialized equipment. Although in the factory this adjustment is performed using a special template, which simplifies and speeds up the work. But at home you can do without this template. To carry out adjustment work yourself you need:

• screwdrivers (phillips, flat);
• ruler (preferably a caliper);
• round rod with a diameter of 2 mm (wire or drill will do).

With such equipment you can quickly complete all work.

Recommended Method

Level control technology includes a number of stages:

1. We dismantle the housing of the air filter element. To do this, unscrew the fastening nut of the housing cover, unclip the latches, remove the cover, take out the filter and tighten the 4 nuts that secure the housing to the carburetor.

2. Raise the body and disconnect the rubber pipes. We move the body to the side.

3. Loosen the clamps securing the fuel pipes going to the carburetor and disconnect them.
4. Remove the wire suitable for the idle speed solenoid valve;
5. Disconnect the drive cable of the air damper (the “choke” handle);
6. Unscrew the 5 screws securing the carburetor cover;

7. Having removed the cover, we immediately determine the fuel level in the chambers by lowering a ruler or caliper into one of them until it stops (using its depth gauge). If the measurement shows a level of 25-26 mm, it corresponds to the norm and no adjustment is required;

If the amount of fuel in the chamber is lower or higher than normal, we perform a visual inspection and a series of measurements on the floats, and if necessary, we correct their position.

To carry out adjustment work, place the removed carburetor cover on a flat horizontal surface with the floats facing up.

First, we look at the position of the elements from above. The outer side surfaces of the floats are parallel to the special imprints on the gasket. Deviations can cause the floats to touch adjacent elements and surfaces, causing the fuel level to be incorrect. If necessary, adjust the position of the floats by bending their mounting arms. The next step is to measure the gap between the floats and the gasket. A rod with a diameter of 2 mm is useful here - this is how much the specified gap should be.

If it does not correspond, we bend the tongue of the floats, with which they act on the locking needle. After this adjustment, we check the total height of the floats, which is normally 34 mm. If this is not the case, check the gap again, adjust it if necessary and measure the height again.

The last stage of setup is determining the working stroke of the floats. To do this, place a caliper near the float, mark the distance from its lower corner to the surface of the cover, then lift the float with your hand and mark where the lower corner is.

A working stroke of 15 mm is considered normal; if it differs, it is adjusted by bending the tongue.

In what cases is it necessary to carry out repairs as soon as possible?

Repairing a carburetor is a very important procedure, so you need to know exactly when to work on the unit. For the Nine, problems with the carburetor manifest themselves as follows:

• The engine power drops significantly, it may stall;
• the car jerks when starting;
• at idle speed the engine runs very poorly;
• when accelerating and changing gears, extraneous sounds are heard and jerking occurs;
• increased fuel consumption;
• the amount of smoke in the exhaust system increases greatly.

Of course, not all signs appear immediately; they usually appear one at a time. As soon as the condition of the node worsens, you should expect other problems

First of all, you need to pay attention to the engine speed, the amount of fuel consumed

For example, if fuel consumption increases, it means that a problem arises when creating the air-fuel mixture; there is a failure in the supply cycles of substances. The valve could become clogged, a leak could occur, etc. In such cases, you will have to disassemble the part and thoroughly clean it of carbon deposits and other work waste.

Occasionally, it happens that the carburetor overflows: liquid flows out of it, getting into the cavity between the parts, and the car jerks or simply stalls in place. You can fix the problem in the garage, but if it happens on the road, the car will stop and you will most likely have to call a tow truck.

Occasionally, car malfunctions that lead to the need to repair the carburetor occur due to the replacement of parts. Incorrectly installed parts can also cause performance problems.

So, if one of the described problems occurs, first of all you need to do the following:

1. Conduct an initial inspection of the hose and cable system and visually assess the condition of the unit.
2. Change the brand of fuel (quite often low-quality fuel leads to clogging of the fuel line).
3. Clean the unit.
4. Inspect newly installed parts.

Alternative way

There is a simpler method for determining the correct position of the floats, which does not require measurements. Place the carburetor cover on a flat table and look at the stampings made on the side surfaces. When the floats are in a normally adjusted position, these strips are parallel to the lid.

Then we lift the floats up and look at their bottom, which after lifting should be parallel to the surface of the lid. If necessary, adjust the position of the floats by bending the tongue.

After adjustment work, we assemble the carburetor.

How to set the ignition angle?

Many people recommend using a strobe light for these purposes. But this is true for new cars. If the motor is already worn out, this angle set by the strobe will be incorrect. It is best to rely on the hearing and behavior of the car.

So, how do you set up the ignition yourself on a VAZ-2109? By the way, we have already examined the carburetor in full. The first step is to start and warm up the engine. Then you need to loosen the nuts holding the distributor and turn it in one direction or the other until the speed begins to increase and the engine starts running stably. Next, the nuts are tightened.

After this, you need to drive the car and look at its reaction. If the car “does not drive,” then the ignition is too early. Next, you need to accelerate to 50 kilometers per hour, engage fourth gear and press the accelerator pedal. If detonation sounds occur, then the ignition is set even later. If the detonation lasted a few seconds, then everything is in order. And if it is not there at all, then the ignition is too late.

It is recommended to set it again. But in this case, the ignition distributor should be rotated in the opposite direction. Please note: the slightest inaccuracy and an error of 1 degree are fraught with detonation. After successful setup, the car will begin to pick up speed normally and consume less fuel (but not below factory settings).

Idle speed adjustment

The second setting of the VAZ-2109 carburetor is idle speed, it can be partial or full. The first is for minor speed adjustments, the second is for adjusting the amount of air (setting CO emissions in the exhaust gases).

Partial adjustment is performed using the air-fuel mixture “amount” screw. This screw sets the opening angle of the throttle valves, which ensures that the air-fuel mixture enters the cylinders when the accelerator pedal is released. The “quantity” screw rests on the throttle valve control lever and when screwed in, it pushes the lever, causing the valves to open slightly.

Partial idle adjustment is performed with a warm engine and creating a load on the vehicle's on-board network by turning on the high beam headlights and the interior heater at full power. The adjustment is carried out with the engine running by screwing in/unscrewing the “quantity” screw until the optimal idle speed is established, which for the VAZ-2109 is 800-900 rpm (this can be tracked using a standard or plug-in tachometer).

If it is not possible to set the required speed or the motor operates unstably at it, a complete adjustment is made, which is made by two screws - “quantity” and “quality”.

The algorithm for this adjustment consists of the following stages:

1. Warm up the engine and then turn it off;
2. We find the quality screw (it may be closed with a plug that will have to be removed), screw it in until it stops, and then unscrew it 3-4 full turns;
3. We start the engine, turn on electrical consumers (lighting and stove) to create a load in the on-board network;
4. By rotating the “quantity” screw, we achieve 700-800 rpm on the tachometer;
5. By turning the “quality” screw, we set the maximum possible speed (they will increase to a certain level, and then stop. The moment the speed increase stops is considered the maximum);
6. We set the “quantity” screw to 900 rpm;
7. Using the “quality” screw we lower them to 800 rpm;
8. We slowly tighten the “quality” screw until interruptions appear in the operation of the power plant, after which we unscrew it back 1 turn;
9. We adjust the speed with the “quantity” screw, bringing it to a normal value - 800-900 rpm;

Operating principle

There is no point in examining in detail how a carburetor works, so let's study the basic principle of operation. A carburetor is a special device whose main task is to supply the engine with a fuel mixture in different operating modes.

When starting an internal combustion engine, many drivers open the air damper of the first chamber - this allows the mixture to be supplied to the cylinders as rich as possible. The engine should start. Then, as the engine warms up, the air damper is closed and the carburetor returns to its main operating mode.

The fuel mixture is supplied from the pump to the float chambers, which feed the first and second chambers. The gasoline level here is adjusted using a needle valve. Next, fuel is supplied from the chambers through special channels in the device body into the main jet and then into the first chamber. The mixture supply level is controlled by the accelerator pedal. The latter, in turn, regulates the throttle valve. The second camera will be activated if you press the gas pedal more than halfway.

When the engine is idling, the device does not use the main metering system. These carburetors have a separate idle design. Fuel and air are supplied through separate channels in the housing. XX jets are also present. Many owners have problems with setting the idle speed on VAZ-2109 carburetors.

The design of the VAZ-2109 carburetor

The first front-wheel drive VAZ cars went into production in 1985. The Togliatti plant began producing three-door 2108 models equipped with a 1.3-liter gasoline engine. Somewhat later, conveyor production of 5-door “nines” was established, and new 1.1 and 1.5 liter engines (modifications 21081 and 21083) also appeared.

AvtoVAZ has developed its own carburetor for each engine size, but externally the CUs are practically no different from each other, the difference lies only in the metering elements located inside the body and the nameplate with the model designation. Unlike classic Ozones, Solexes have a body of only two parts, and not three - this is the main section with a platform for installation on the engine and the top cover.

The design of the VAZ-2109 carburetor has its own characteristics, but in general it contains the same parts as another similar unit for domestic passenger cars of the nineties and early two thousand. This HRSG is an emulsion type, two-chamber, with sequential opening of the chambers, for more stable operation it is equipped with liquid heating (antifreeze or antifreeze poured into the cooling system is used).

For full operation in any mode and optimal dosing of the air-fuel mixture, the following systems are provided:

• the main dosing one is the main one, its elements are present in both chambers (air and fuel supply nozzles, diffusers, emulsion tubes);
• idle speed (idle), ensures stable operation of the internal combustion engine at low speed, economical consumption of gasoline;
• transition from the first chamber to the second, serves to prevent jerks and failures when the valve of the second chamber opens;
• accelerator pump supplies an additional portion of fuel at the moment of sharp acceleration of the car, due to which the speed is gained smoothly, without jerking;
• economizer, enriches the fuel mixture at high speeds of the internal combustion engine (ICE) and increased loads;
• starting device allows the engine to start without problems in any cold weather:
• float chamber maintains the required level of gasoline regardless of load and speed.

When parts of the carburetor unit wear out, become clogged or fail, various malfunctions appear, such as loss of power, uneven engine operation, increased fuel consumption, engine stopping when releasing gas, etc. Only a specialist can independently deal with all the intricacies of the repair, but many drivers are able to clean, adjust and tune the carburetor with their own hands.

What are jets in a carburetor?

Carburetor jets are calibrated holes inside the carburetor. Such elements can be made of various materials and differ in the diameter of the working hole.

Jets can be installed inside the carburetor cavity in various ways. Some elements are pressed inside a hole of a larger diameter. Thanks to this arrangement, it is possible to ensure greater resistance of products to increased levels of vibration. The disadvantage of this type of element is the more complex maintenance and repair process.

The jets may have threads on the outer surface, which allows these parts to be easily screwed into the carburetor body. The advantage of this design is that it simplifies repairs, including replacing faulty elements with new products.

What are the jets responsible for?

Jets are needed to supply fuel in a certain ratio. The carburetor has a large number of micro-channels through which air can also be supplied, which is necessary to fill various cavities when the fuel level in them decreases, as well as when preparing the fuel mixture.

Several jets are installed in the carburetor. The idle jet most often needs cleaning if low-quality gasoline is used or the fuel filter is not changed on time. The fuel consumption and engine response will depend on the correct adjustment of the jets, and if the jets are incorrectly selected with the wrong hole diameter, the engine may not start due to flooded spark plugs.

Given the importance of these elements, replacement products should be selected only taking into account the catalog number of the main part. For example, if Solex jets are needed for replacement, then you should buy and install only products for this type of carburetor. It is also necessary to take into account the designations from the set of numbers following the name of the dosing system (Solex 21073, Solex 21083, etc.).

Which jets are better

If it is possible to purchase products made of brass, then you should give preference to products made from this copper alloy. Brass is resistant to aggressive environments, so products made from it do not rust in the carburetor throughout its entire service life. Automotive fuel may contain a large number of additives that can have a negative effect on other types of materials. For this reason, you should not use homemade jets or try to replace these parts with any tubes that match the outer diameter.

Original carburetor jets are better than those purchased for replacement in various repair kits. For this reason, if it becomes necessary to replace one part, you should not install all elements of this type.

Removing and installing the carburetor

Installation and dismantling is carried out in case of repair of this unit, its complete replacement, as well as for thorough washing and cleaning. The AHU can become clogged if the car is driven on dusty roads, as well as as a result of untimely replacement of the air filter element.

Removing and installing a VAZ-2109 carburetor is very simple; even with the initial skills of a car mechanic, almost any driver (car owner) can do such work with his own hands. We perform the dismantling operation as follows:

• turn off the ignition, open the hood, remove the top cover, the filter element, then unscrew the four nuts securing the air filter housing (AFC);

• loosening the clamps, disconnect the fuel hoses, unscrew the two fastenings of the choke cable, move the cable to the side, disconnect the wire chips of the solenoid valve and the throttle valve closing sensor;

• We also disconnect the throttle cable, having previously removed the return spring, the ignition angle advance hose, and unscrew the nuts securing the carburetor itself (also 4 pieces);

• in order not to lose antifreeze and not to disconnect the coolant pipes, it is easier to unscrew the screw securing the heating unit, but it is located at the back of the housing, not in the most accessible place;
• in this case, lift up the unscrewed carburetor, move it forward, find a position in which it would be convenient to dismantle this fastener;

• Now nothing prevents you from removing the entire assembly.

If the KU is thoroughly stuck to the studs and does not pull off, you can gently tap it at the base with a small hammer and shake it with your hands from side to side. As a rule, after several attempts the device gives in; after removing it, you can begin further planned operations; installation of the unit is carried out in the reverse order.

Symptoms of an incorrect angle

What if the ignition setting is incorrect (the VAZ-2109 carburetor works perfectly)? In this case, you can observe high fuel consumption, a decrease in power, failures when pressing the gas pedal, problems with starting the engine, as well as detonation and overheating.

It often shoots at the muffler and carburetor. These are not all possible symptoms. But before you start ignition, you need to make sure that no valve adjustment is required. You already know how to adjust the VAZ-2109 carburetor.

Basic faults

Any malfunctions of the 2109 carburetor affect the performance of the engine: the engine may stall when the speed is reduced, run intermittently, not develop power, and consume gasoline beyond the norm. There are many reasons for problems with this unit, but the most typical of them are:

• clogging of the HDS and idle jets, both air and fuel, and in the solenoid valve (EMV);
• rupture (defect) of the accelerator pump diaphragm;
• failure of the EMG itself;
• loose fit of the locking mechanism needle to the seat;
• air leakage through the junction of the body and the cover;
• leakage of the float in the float chamber;
• clogging of the accelerator pump nozzle with dirt;
• misadjustment of screws XX.

Of course, various types of malfunctions can occur not only due to the carburetor, the engine itself is often faulty, and the ignition may also be set incorrectly, especially if the installation was carried out by an inexperienced technician without a strobe light. Problems with idle speed can occur due to a lack of power to the solenoid valve, so before disassembling the HRV, you should first check for voltage on this wiring.

Reasons why candles flood

This question worries owners of carburetor cars much more often than owners of injection cars. This happens especially often in winter. There are several reasons for this malfunction:

• In order to mix the working mixture in the winter, much more effort is required than in the summer. To avoid this problem, it is necessary to fill the engine with high-quality oil, keep the battery fully charged, and also monitor the serviceability of the starter;
• the engine is very worn out;
• Poor quality spark plugs or spark plug wires.

Adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber

Maintaining a normal level of gasoline in the float chamber is an important condition; if it is not met, malfunctions in the operation of the car occur:

• if the level is below normal, the engine does not have enough speed, power decreases, and gasoline consumption increases;
• if it is higher than required, fuel consumption also increases, and even more.

Setting the fuel level for the VAZ-2108-09-099 is quite simple, and in this case it is not at all necessary to remove the carburetor. The procedure for adjusting the position of the floats is as follows:

• remove the KVF assembly with the filter element;
• disconnect the choke cable, fuel hoses, EMG power cable;
• unscrew the five screws securing the carburetor cover;
• turn the lid over, take a drill with a thickness of 1 to 2 mm and take a measurement between the gasket and the lower surface of the floats - this distance should be exactly within these limits, and the same.

You can also measure the fuel level, but before carrying out such a procedure, it is necessary for the engine to idle for several minutes. The distance from the upper edge of the housing to the surface of the gasoline is measured; according to factory conditions, it should be 25-26 mm. Another way is to measure the distance from the gasket to the top edge of the floats with a caliper; it is 34 mm (with the cover upside down).

Another measurement method is using a specially made template.

Important conditions when setting the level:

• the floats must be located parallel to each other, along the lid;
• they are installed strictly vertically, without distortions;
• when lifting the float pair all the way up, the distance from their lower corners to the gasket should be within 15 mm;

• the adjustment of the extreme positions during adjustment is carried out by bending the tabs on both sides;

If the floats inside the chamber are installed skewed or not strictly vertical, they may rub against the walls of the housing, causing gasoline to overflow as a result of sticking.

"Solex 21083"

This carburetor consists of two parts. So, the first part is the main body of the device - there are diffusers, the main dosing system, a system for idling the engine, a power economizer and an accelerator pump.

The second part is the lid. It is equipped with an air damper, floats, a starting device, and a solenoid valve.

Idle speed adjustment

The most common problem with a Solex carburetor is the disappearance of normal idle speed; the engine begins to operate intermittently at low speeds. Very often, the cause of such a malfunction is either a clogged EMG jet or the solenoid valve itself. It is very easy to check this - while the engine is running at idle, we disconnect the wiring from the EMG; if the nature of the internal combustion engine does not change at all, and when the valve is unscrewed, the speed increases noticeably, then the defect is present.

You can try to restore normal operation of the XX without removing the entire assembly, and this procedure is quite simple:

• With the engine off, remove the air filter with housing:
• disconnect the EMG wire, unscrew the valve itself;

• we start the engine, plugging the “idle” channel with a finger, “accelerate” several times;

• we stop the engine, do not forget to blow out the EMG and its nozzle using a compressor or hand pump, separating these parts from each other;
• we put the parts in place, do a test start of the internal combustion engine: if the idle speed has stabilized, and when the wiring was removed, the speed changed, it means that the reason was precisely the blockage, and now the idle speed has “returned to normal.”

But it is not always possible to clean the channel in this way; specks may get stuck in the area of ​​the quality screw. Here you already need to remove and disassemble the carburetor, dismantle the screw, which in general is not very difficult, since it is located deep in the channel and is held there by a rubber sealing ring.

Replacing carburetor jets

If earlier during operation of the machine the rules for cleaning the jets were grossly violated, then the parts will need to be replaced. For example, if the owner of a car used metal wire or needles to clear calibrated holes from contamination, the diameter of the product could increase. If such a problem occurs on the fuel nozzle, then the engine will be filled with gasoline, and on the air nozzle, the car will run on a lean mixture. Both situations will not allow you to comfortably operate the vehicle, so you will have to replace damaged parts.

Sometimes, installation of a new carburetor jet is required as a result of the loss of an element during cleaning. For example, if a powerful compressor unit was used to blow through the product, the part may fly out a considerable distance if it was not properly fixed during the work.

To replace the jets you will need to buy a new repair kit. Then you should disassemble the carburetor, as when performing a thorough cleaning, unscrew the old ones and install new elements.

Options for modification and selection of jets on Solex carburetors

The Solex 21083 carburetor jets can be modified to change the dynamic and economic performance of the engine. A feature of such work is the need to change only fuel or only air dosing elements. If you need to increase power, then it is enough to slightly increase the diameter of the fuel elements; to increase engine efficiency, a similar operation is carried out with air jets.

Increasing the diameter by drilling is possible, but given the large error when performing such an operation, it is recommended to select a part with the required size from the jet table.

Adjusting the ignition angle

Sluggish acceleration of the car and instability of the idle speed are also often associated with incorrectly set ignition; this procedure is mainly carried out in car repair shops using special equipment. But if you wish, it’s easy to make the adjustment yourself, and without a strobe, and quite accurately:

• with the engine stopped, loosen the three nuts securing the distributor (the third fastening is located at the bottom, it is not visible from above);

• we start the car, turn the distributor-distributor clockwise (to “+”), and if the ignition was late, the idle speed will increase noticeably;

• we select the optimal position of the distributor (the operation of the internal combustion engine should be smooth, without failures), reduce the speed using the quantity screw, turn off the engine, fix the distributor-distributor with one nut for now, and check the results of the ignition adjustment on the fly.

If, under heavy load and sharp acceleration, your fingers begin to noticeably “knock” (engine detonation appears), you should move the distributor a little to “minus”, then check the car again while driving. This way you can set the ignition quite accurately, and sometimes even better than with a strobe light.

Disassembly of the unit and the algorithm for its implementation

To completely clean the entire carburetor, you will have to not only remove it, but also disassemble it. Experienced users will put the part back together without any problems, but those who have not done such work may make several serious mistakes. Here are a couple of tips on what to do before disassembling the device:

1. Unscrew all fasteners (including those inside the carburetor) only if absolutely necessary. In particular, the fastening of the dampers must not be touched. Incorrect reassembly of these parts, displacement and movement will lead to jamming of the mechanism, as a result - several new problems.
2. Diffusers that are placed in air ducts should not be pulled out.
3. Do not dismantle brass tubes unnecessarily.
4. Also, do not remove the economizer fitting and valve. Any part that is misaligned or installed incorrectly will cause the carburetor to stop working altogether.

A very important point! The second chamber throttle adjustment screw has a protective cap; it does not need to be removed, and the screw itself should not be touched. Otherwise, the factory settings of the mechanism will be changed, which may lead to serious malfunctions in the operation of the entire unit. Without a special tool, the starting position of the damper cannot be returned.

If you plan to completely disassemble the unit, then this must be done very carefully, slowly, using the vehicle manual. In cases where it is enough to clean the external part of the device, it is better to limit it to this, otherwise you will then have to take the car for a comprehensive repair to the nearest service station. The most detailed description of working with Solex is in the publication “Solex Carburetors” authored by Erokhov. It is recommended to use it first, as many small nuances are described there.

Features and malfunctions of the starting device

With the onset of frost, many owners of “nines” are faced with the problem of poor cold starting of the engine, and the cause of the malfunction is often the starting device (PU), which is designed to enrich the fuel mixture in a certain proportion. When the choke cable is pulled, the air damper closes, but under the influence of vacuum it changes its position, opening slightly and to some extent allowing air to pass into the carburetor. The position of the air intake is also adjusted using a diaphragm device, which is mechanically connected to the damper by a system of rods.

Quality screw removal method

With Solex carburetors, the XX channel in the body itself often becomes clogged, and in order to clear it thoroughly, it is necessary to remove the quality screw. But this screw, as mentioned above, has a very tight fit and is not easy to get out. There are several methods for dismantling a part; we will consider only one option.

We take a piece of an old antenna from any radio receiver, select the outer diameter so that the tube fits into the channel of the carburetor body, usually the outer thickness of the “puller” is about 4 mm. We cut off a small piece, make a cut at one end (about 1 cm deep), use another quality screw (a spare one, or you can buy it specially in a store), and check how tightly the tube fits onto the head of the screw.

Now you can unscrew the screw and use a homemade puller to remove it from the KU body.

Adjusting carburetors is a delicate process and requires some caution. In order to obtain the desired result, the idle speed is usually adjusted. So, here is a standard carburetor for a VAZ 2109:

The “quantity” and “quality” screws with which the carburetor is calibrated are clearly visible here.

Fine adjustments are not made with the engine running. This is important - don't forget. What to do:

• Warm up the engine and turn it off.
• Take the mixture quality screw. First you need to tighten it to the limit. Then unscrew it four or five turns. As a result, we get a completely enriched mixture.
• Next, we do the same with the quantity screw, but unscrew it three turns.
• The preheated engine can now be started.
• Using the quantity screw you need to adjust the idle speed. The limit is 800 rpm.
• Now, slowly tighten the mixture quality screw. An important point is that the gas distribution mechanism, ignition and the carburetor itself must be in good working order!
• We adjust the speed further. They will grow a little at first. Then they will become less stable. As you continue to tighten the screw, they will become smaller. As soon as you notice that the speed is unstable, you can unscrew the screw half a turn.
• Next, we correct the speed using the quantity screw. Don't forget to check the number of revolutions under increased loads - with the oven on, for example. In winter, even from the usual 850 rpm, you should raise it to 1000.

Preliminary work

Although our primary task is to adjust the VAZ 2109 carburetor, we need to start cleaning the unit from carbon deposits and dirt. Often plaque is the cause of the problem, so you will need a good cleaning agent. In the auto supply store you can find various chemicals for such needs; You need to ask specifically for the carburetor. WD 40 is not suitable for cleaning due to the abundance of oil in the composition.

In addition to chemistry, the following items will also be useful to you:

1. Small stiff brush. In extreme cases, a toothbrush or even toothpicks will do.
2. Rubber and fabric gloves. You can take two pairs of rubber ones - just in case, because cleaning products are very aggressive.
3. Set of keys and screwdrivers.
4. User manual for VAZ 2109 with Solex circuit.
5. A can of compressed air for blowing parts.

What is the spray can for? The fact is that the nozzle channels are very narrow, which is why mechanical cleaning using narrow tools will be useless, but a powerful directed air stream is suitable for such a task.

You need to carefully clean both the outside and inside of the carburetor. Fastenings - screws and bolts, put them in separate boxes, they should also be processed and blown out at the end.

Be sure to remove all rubber parts from the assembly, otherwise the chemical will simply dissolve them. The same should be done with plastic. Only metal parts need to be treated with the cleaner. This is done in two stages:

1. The chemical is applied, after which you need to wait 10 minutes.
2. When the coating has partially dissolved, you need to rinse the parts and housings under running water.

If any deposits remain, they can be easily removed with a toothpick, stick or brush. The last stage of cleaning is drying.