Rear axle gear oil seal Niva Chevrolet

Attention! We hang and remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear brake pads (see Replacing the rear brake pads).

Using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the four nuts on the bolts securing the axle shaft to the beam flange.

Use a slotted screwdriver to bend the locking plates of the axle shaft mounting bolts...

...and remove the bolts.

We fix the wheel with the reverse side on the axle shaft by tightening three nuts several turns.

Holding the wheel, we move it with a jerk...

...and remove the axle shaft assembly with the bearing mounting plate, bearing and locking ring.

We take out the rubber sealing ring of the beam flange.

We insert two bolts into the holes of the brake shield and the rear axle beam so that the shield does not hang on the brake pipe.

We pry off the oil seal using sliding pliers...

Using a tool head of a suitable size with an extension (or a piece of pipe), we press in a new oil seal.

If the axle shaft is deformed, its splines are worn out, or the bearing is worn out, we replace the axle shaft with a new one complete with bearing and locking ring (it is not recommended to replace the bearing or locking ring yourself).

Install the axle shaft in reverse order.

Check the oil level in the rear axle and add if necessary.

When and how do you need to change the seals of the VAZ 2123 transfer case?

Reference!
Parts must be replaced if transmission oil leaks occur at the interface between the drive shafts and the transmission housing. If this is not done, the transmission will leak. Without lubrication, transfer case parts will quickly fail.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the oil seal of the Niva Chevrolet

To work, you need to have free access to the bottom of the car. Therefore, replacement of RK oil seals will be carried out on an inspection ditch, overpass or lift.

You will need the following tool:

hexagon 12;
open-end or socket wrench 24;
waste container;
flat screwdriver;
hammer;
mandrel;
syringe for filling transmission oil;
new self-locking nuts for fastening the flanges.

The algorithm for replacing the Niva Chevrolet transfer case oil seal is as follows:

drain the oil from the transfer case into the prepared container;
unscrew the bolts securing the cardan, the drive shaft oil seal of which is to be replaced;
engage the gear, lock the differential and put the car on the handbrake;
Unscrew the nut securing the propeller shaft drive flange.
remove the washer;
pull the flange off the shaft;
use a screwdriver to remove the old oil seal;
clean the seat and apply sealant;
lubricate the rubber seal of the new oil seal with oil;
using a mandrel and a hammer, press the part into place;
install the flange and washer, tighten them with a self-locking nut;
secure the cardan.

Important! The self-locking design does not allow for reuse of parts. Therefore, the flange nuts must be replaced with new ones.

After completing the work, it is necessary to fill the transfer case with fresh transmission oil.

When to change the seal

Replacing the axle seal is not tied to a specific mileage, but is done in connection with the following defects:

Transmission oil leakage from the rear axle of a Chevrolet Niva. It is characterized by the appearance of oil stains on the brake casing and the “stocking” on the side where the axle shaft seal has lost its seal.
In case of accidental damage to the seal when replacing the axle bearing. Happens when a part is pulled out of its socket.

A distinction should be made between transmission oil leakage from the axle seal on either side of the rear beam and from the gearbox shank where the driveshaft is secured. In the second case, greasy stains and dirt cover the rear axle gear housing, located in the middle.

If for various reasons you need to replace the axle bearing, then you should also change the oil seal at the same time. This will save you from having to disassemble the unit again due to leakage of the old part. The part costs mere pennies, its catalog number for the Chevrolet Niva is 2110-2301034 (right) and 2110-2301035 (left), and the overall dimensions are as follows:

outer diameter - 57 mm;

width - 9 mm;

The diameter of the hole along the protruding rubber (or silicone) edge is 35 mm.

Replacing the Chevrolet Niva front axle oil seal.

First you need to remove one or two drives, depending on where replacement is needed.
After this you need to remove the locking ring
Using a hammer, knock out the bearing. If you have problems with removal, you can use WD-40 lubricant
The cover is removed, the old oil seal is knocked out using a pipe.
The installation site is lubricated and a new O-ring is installed.
the unit is reassembled.

Replacing the rear axle gearbox seal of a VAZ 2107
Hello! Most Chevy owners service the unpretentious units of this popular car themselves. During intensive use, you often have to change consumables, especially in the chassis. I will tell you about this type of service, such as replacing the front axle oil seal of a NIVA Chevrolet. The replacement operation is carried out when oil leaks from the axle housing. A clogged breather causes lubricant to squeeze out.

If grease drips immediately after stopping (while the gearbox is hot), and then the flow stops, the breather must be cleaned. When it is clogged with dirt, the heated air is not released outside during movement. Under pressure, the working fluid of the gearbox will be squeezed out even through serviceable gaskets and seals.

If the breather is in order, but oil still leaks, you will have to replace damaged cover gaskets or O-rings. There are three of them in the front axle, and they are different:

The oil seal that seals the drive gear axis is located at the rear of the axle, at the location where the front propeller shaft is attached. Oil seals for the right and left drive (inner axle joint).

ATTENTION! The left and right oil seals are not the same; they have a direction of rotation. This must be taken into account when purchasing

The direction of rotation of the wheel when moving forward is indicated by the arrow. If the oil is installed incorrectly, the removable notches will drive the lubricant out.

To understand the device, here is the layout of the front axle:

The oil seal is replaced without removing the front axle. If the work is carried out independently, and it is not possible to use a lift, the car is placed on an inspection hole or overpass. We tighten the hand brake and install supports under the rear wheels. Gearbox and transfer case levers in the “Neutral” position. The front part is lifted with a jack and fixed on stops.

We clean the bridge from dirt and leaks of technical fluids. Unscrew the crankcase drain plug and drain the oil from the gearbox. Screw the plug into place.

Socket wrenches 13, 17 and 24 Hexagon 12 Mounting blade (mount) Wooden block; Hammer; Flat screwdriver; Universal puller, two or three legs; Retaining ring remover; A piece of pipe according to the diameter of the seals; Flushing fluid (kerosene, Carbcleaner, Vince, Laurel); Brush with stiff bristles; Lint-free rags.

We disconnect the driveshaft from the gearbox by unscrewing the bolts securing it to the flange.
We separate the internal CV joint housings from the drive gears.
Using a dynamometer, we determine the moment at which the drive gear begins to rotate freely. To do this, turn the flange mounting nut until the gear begins to rotate. We fix the magnitude of the moment.
We tighten the bolts into two adjacent flange holes (for fixation).
We insert a mounting spade between the bolts, hold the flange from turning and unscrew the fastening nut.
Remove the washer and flange from the spline joint. If it is impossible to remove it by hand, use a universal puller.

7. Remove the oil seal using a flat-head screwdriver. 8. Rinse and thoroughly wipe the replacement area. 9. Replacement of the front axle drive gear oil seal is carried out only with original Chevrolet spare parts. To facilitate pressing, any grease (litol, grease) is applied to the sealing ring. 10. Press in the ring using a pipe of suitable diameter. 11. Place the flange on the spline connection and put on the washer. 12. Tighten the nut to the torque determined when unscrewing. 13. Fasten the cardan shaft.

We remove both drives (or the one that requires replacement)
Remove the retaining ring and spring washer;
Using a hammer, carefully knock down the bearing. If removal is difficult, treat with a penetrating lubricant, such as WD-40.
Remove the bearing cap with the old seal.
Using a pipe, knock the oil seal out of the cover;
Lubricate the new spare part with any grease and press the o-ring into the cover.

7. We assemble the unit. We fill the gearbox with oil in accordance with the maintenance instructions, do a test drive, and check for oil leaks.

Video about the difference between RPM Shniva and VAZ 2121:

Knowing the reason for the gearbox wedge and knowing how to fix it, I went to a hardware store and bought 6 liters of kerosene. Kerosene turned out to be very expensive, 2 bottles of 3 liters cost me 700 rubles... I also went to Automaton in search of new bolts for the planetary gear, but found only ordinary ones, with a strength of 8.8... I bought a thread locker, sealant, a new spacer sleeve, oil seal and CV joint lube . Then I remembered that at my dacha I had the offal from a new factory gearbox, and from them I took the necessary bolts. I came home and started repairs. Using a Grover, I removed the roughness and burrs from the gearbox that arose from loose bolts. I took out the drive gear and washed its bearings in kerosene. I washed the pads on the self-block and the self-block itself, the main pair and also the gearbox housing itself. I put the spare parts under the battery to dry.

The stench from kerosene was all over the house, but there was nowhere to go... The next day, in order not to rush to the dacha, my friend and I moved the table with a vice to the house and we began assembling the gearbox. The old oil deflector washer was somehow all mangled, so I replaced it with a new one, and also installed a new oil seal, since the old one was torn.

Before screwing them into the GP driven gear, I lubricated all the bolts with blue thread locker.

Chevy Niva front axle structure:

1 – mud deflector; 2 – lower cover of the gearbox housing; 3 – drive gear bearings; 4 – differential housing; 5 – drain plug; 6 – filler and control hole plug; 7 – bearing of the internal hinge housing; 8 – oil seal; 9 – housing of the internal wheel drive hinge; 10 – spring washer; 11 – retaining ring; 12 – bearing cover; 13 – adjusting nut; 14 – differential box bearing; 15 – bearing cover; 16 – cover fastening bolt; 17 – support washer; 18 – satellite; 19 – axle gear; 20 – gearbox housing; 21 – breather; 22 – bearing cover of the internal hinge; 23 – satellite axis; 24 – adjusting ring; 25 – drive gear; 26 – bearing spacer; 27 – drive gear oil seal; 28 – flange.

The front axle of the Niva Chevrolet consists of a main gear and a differential installed in one housing. The differential, final drive gears and gearbox bearings of the front and rear axles are the same. The front axle gear housing is cast, covered with covers at the front and bottom. The crankcase covers are sealed with gaskets.

Advice on how to remove drives without dismantling the Niva front gearbox

To dismantle the drives, it is necessary to unscrew the fastenings of the gearbox (in this case, some kind of stop is placed under it).
Then the steering knuckles are released. To do this, simply unscrew the shock absorber mount from the lower arm and the lower ball joint.
To relieve the load, jack up the lower suspension arm.
Unscrew the hub nut and remove the centering ring. The nut is too tight, so we use a wrench extension (for example, a metal pipe).
We move the steering knuckle to the side. The drive can then move freely.
To ensure free movement of the drive during removal, the gearbox must be moved back slightly.
We remove the drive, being careful not to damage the anthers. If the boot is torn, it must be replaced.
The procedure for removing the right and left CV joint drives is similar.

Repair of the front axle on a VAZ 2121 Niva

Removing the axle shaft and replacing the oil seal

We hang and remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear brake pads (see Replacing the rear brake pads).

Using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the four nuts on the bolts securing the axle shaft to the beam flange.

Use a slotted screwdriver to bend the locking plates of the axle shaft mounting bolts...

...and remove the bolts.

We fix the wheel with the reverse side on the axle shaft by tightening three nuts several turns.

Holding the wheel, we move it with a jerk...

...and remove the axle shaft assembly with the bearing mounting plate, bearing and locking ring.

We take out the rubber sealing ring of the beam flange.

We insert two bolts into the holes of the brake shield and the rear axle beam so that the shield does not hang on the brake pipe.

We pry off the oil seal using sliding pliers...

Using a tool head of a suitable size with an extension (or a piece of pipe), we press in a new oil seal.

Useful video

Replacing the rear axle shaft seal of Niva 2121 will not take you more than 1 hour if you follow the suggested instructions.
1. NIVA gearbox seals :

-Oil seal for the input shaft of the gearbox (gearbox) NIVA-2121, -21213, -21214, -2131, -2123:

Catalogue number: 2101-1701043

oil seal dimensions: 28x47x8mm

- Seal of the secondary shaft of the gearbox (shank) VAZ-2121, -21213, -21214, -2131, -2123:

Catalogue number: 2101-1701210

oil seal dimensions: 32x56x11mm

2. NIVA front axle oil seals:

-Oil seal for the front axle gearbox NIVA- 2121,-21213,-21214,- 2123,-2120

catalog number: 2121-2302052

Dimensions: 35.8 x 68 x 11mm

-Drive seal -2121,-21213,-21214,-2131,-2123, universal (without direction)

Catalog number: 2123-2303120 / 121 2 pcs.

seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm

But it is better to install seals with a notch (left, right):

Left drive oil seal -2121,-21213,-21214,- 2123

Catalog number: 21213-2301035 1 piece.

Oil seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm

Right drive oil seal -2121,-21213,-21214,-2123

Catalog number: 21213-2301034 1 piece.

Oil seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm

3. Transfer Case Seals 3pcs:

2 identical oil seals are installed on the valve:

catalog number: 2101-2402052-01 (this is the rear axle gearbox seal on the VAZ-2101 and NIVA-2121 of right rotation),

one is installed on the drive shaft of the RK:

(in the lower diagram), the second is on the front shaft of the RK differential (see the upper diagram - highlighted in red)

Dimensions of these seals in mm: 35.8 x 68 x 10(12) 2 pcs.

An oil seal is installed on the rear shaft of the RK differential - this is the 3rd oil seal (highlighted in blue in the top diagram)

with catalog number: 2121-2302052 left rotation 1 pc.

Dimensions in mm: 35.8 x 68 x 11(12)

4. Rear axle gear oil seal :

catalog number: 2101-2402052-01 (rear axle gearbox VAZ-2101) 1 pc.

dimensions: 35.8x68x10

5. Axle shaft seals for Chevy NIVA-2123:

catalog numbers of oil seals: 2110-2301034 right - 1 piece

2110-2301035 left - 1 piece.

gland dimensions in mm: 57 x 35 x 9

In the photo: VAZ-2123 axle seals (BRT) red-left, black-right.

The arrow on the oil seal indicates the direction of rotation of the shaft (when the vehicle is moving forward).

How to change?

Replacing the axle bearing of a Niva Chevrolet

If the mechanism is seriously damaged, it makes sense to replace it with a new one. To do this you will need a new gearbox and a small set of tools:

wheel wrench;
jack (if the work is done in an inspection hole);
chisel:
hammer;
hex wrench 12;
ring or open-end wrenches for 13, 17 and 27;
syringe for filling transmission oil;
container for processing.

Important: replacement or repair of the gearbox cannot be performed without a lift, inspection ditch or overpass

Operating procedure

Place a waste container under the gearbox.
Unscrew the drain plug, then the filler plug.
Wait until the entire transmission flows out of the gearbox.
Unscrew and remove the front wheels.
Unscrew the cardan shaft from the flange on the shank.
Undocking and hanging the cardan.
Unscrew the fastening of the right cover from the suspension cross member.
Unscrew the fastening nuts and disconnect the shock absorbers from the front control arms.
Unscrew the threaded connections holding the wheel drive bearing caps.
Unscrew the nuts securing the brackets holding the gearbox.
Unscrew the nut securing the left gearbox cover to the cross member.
Remove the hub cap and unscrew the right wheel hub nut.
Remove the centering sleeve.
Compress the suspension spring and unscrew the ball joints.
Move the steering knuckle to the side.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Pull the gearbox back.
Remove the right wheel drive.
Remove the gearbox from the machine

To install the new unit in place, you must perform the operations in reverse order.

Important: after installing the gearbox, do not forget to fill it with transmission oil. Otherwise, you will soon have to change it again with another one

Reasons for accelerated wear

The service life of the part is greatly reduced in the following cases:

The gearbox breather is clogged. Under air pressure, oil is squeezed out through the cuff, breaking the internal stiffener.

The universal joint flange nut is not tightened correctly. Backlash or increased friction leads to rapid wear of the oil seal.
The transmission oil contains aggressive additives.
The rubber of the cuff was exposed to chemicals from the road surface.
The gearbox overheats due to poor quality or lack of lubrication.

The oil seal can also be damaged if a hard object gets between it and the shaft. It could be a splintered gear tooth, a piece of a retaining ring, or simply sand that accidentally got into the oil.

Purpose of the Niva rear gearbox oil seal

The rear axle gearbox oil seal (REA) is a lip seal located in the mechanism housing on the installation side of the bevel gear bearings. The main function of the oil seal is to ensure the tightness of the gearbox, eliminating the leakage of lubricant located in the rear axle housing.

Causes of wear

The lip seal of any vehicle component wears out over time, losing its properties. One reason is physical wear and tear. But the oil seal can also be damaged by the aggressive influence of oil on it, for example, when using low-quality lubricant. In addition, the oil seal itself may be initially defective.

Signs of wear

The main sign of a worn VAZ 2121 shank oil seal is the presence of oil leaks on the rear axle in the area where the REM flange is located. To identify a faulty element, it is enough to drive the car into an inspection hole or overpass, or simply crawl under the car. If the cuff is worn heavily, then after a long period of parking an oil puddle will form under the rear axle. If you neglect to timely replace the rear gear oil seal, this will lead to increased wear of the internal elements of the mechanism due to lack of lubrication and their subsequent failure.

Replacing the cuff

If the lip seal has become unusable, it only needs to be replaced, since the element is non-repairable (rubber ages over time and cannot be restored). To replace the oil seal, you need to know the size of the element:

outer diameter 68 mm;
internal diameter 35.8 mm;
height 12 mm.

To carry out repairs, you will need to prepare the following list of tools:

key to 13;
24mm head and knob;
hexagon 12;
powerful slotted screwdriver;
hammer;
dynamometer and torque wrench;
container for draining oil.

The process of replacing the shank oil seal is carried out with the rear axle hanging and is carried out as follows:

Unscrew the rear axle housing plug and drain the lubricant into a prepared container.
We unscrew the fastening bolts of the rear cardan to the RZM flange, move the shaft to the side and secure it with wire to the longitudinal link of the bridge.
Using a dynamometer, we determine the moment of resistance to gear rotation by turning the flange nut clockwise.
To hold the flange, insert the cardan bolts into the holes and screw the nuts onto them.
We place a mounting spatula or screwdriver between the bolts and unscrew the nut with a socket and wrench.
Remove the nut and washer from the shank.
We dismantle the flange itself by hitting it with a hammer through a wooden adapter.
To remove the oil seal, hook it with a screwdriver and remove it.
We apply Litol-24 to the working edge of the new cuff, after which we mount the part into the crankcase using a suitable attachment.
We put the flange and washer in place and tighten the nut with a torque wrench with a torque of 117–255 N*m (12–26 kgf*m), using a dynamometer to control the moment of resistance of the bearings to turning the drive gear. If during the initial measurement of the moment of resistance the value was at least 6 kgf*cm, then when re-tightening it is necessary to increase it by 1-2 kgf*cm. If initially the value was 6 kgf*cm, then we achieve a torque of 6-9 kgf*cm. At the same time, the tightening torque should not exceed 12-26 kgf*m. If, while tightening the nut, the moment of resistance exceeds 9 kgf*cm, the spacer sleeve on the bevel gear will need to be replaced.
After the adjustment work, we install all the elements in the reverse order.

Video: replacing the shank seal of a classic Niva

Replacing the RZM oil seal on a VAZ 2121, when the corresponding signs appear, is, although not a complicated procedure, but necessary. Even a novice car enthusiast can perform the repair by reading the step-by-step instructions and preparing the necessary tools.

When to change the seal

Replacing the axle seal is not tied to a specific mileage, but is done in connection with the following defects:

Transmission oil leakage from the rear axle of a Chevrolet Niva. It is characterized by the appearance of oil stains on the brake casing and the “stocking” on the side where the axle shaft seal has lost its seal.
In case of accidental damage to the seal when replacing the axle bearing. Happens when a part is pulled out of its socket.

outer diameter - 57 mm;
width - 9 mm;
The diameter of the hole along the protruding rubber (or silicone) edge is 35 mm.

The catalog number and dimensions of the O-ring of the Niva VAZ 21214 axle shaft are identical. In addition to the oil seal itself, transmission oil will be needed to replenish the lost amount in the gearbox. TAD17I brand oil is considered “native” for all types of VAZ gearboxes.

The oil seal is located in front of the bridge. Its function is to prevent oil leaks at the junction of the cardan and the axle. Since this part of the car bears a large number of loads, it turns out that this element fails most often. The constant exposure of this part to reagents in winter also has a negative effect.

What will you need?

Before starting work, be sure to prepare all the tools. This will minimize the time spent on repairs; also, using a specialized tool will simplify the process itself; you probably won’t break anything.

Some of the tools will be useful

Head collar;
A 13 box spanner is generally the most popular size;
Long head 24;
Hammer;
Large slotted screwdriver;
Mounting tool or mounting blade;
Torque wrench.

It is also worth paying attention to purchasing replacement consumables. You will need the following list:

Rear axle oil seal;
Sealant;
Litol-24;
New self-locking nut for flange;
Liquid key or WD-40;
Rags.

Pay attention to the purchase of components. Here it is worth choosing the right oil seal

It must match the model exactly. But, even in this case, it is possible to save some money; to do this, purchase parts that are manufactured under a contract. They are cheaper, but at the same time they have practically no differences, and their quality is no worse. Just don’t take rubber-metal cuffs made in China, they cost much less, but no one will vouch for the quality.

Replacing the oil seal

To carry out the work you will need a regular set of tools. The only special tool you will need is a puller for the axle shaft, but if you don’t have one, you can do without it. Before carrying out work, ensure that the machine is as motionless as possible. To do this, wheel chocks are installed under the front wheels. First gear is engaged. The work is carried out in the following order:

The wheel fastening becomes loose. The car is raised on a jack. The wheel is completely removed. Supports are placed under the thresholds in case of problems with the jack; ordinary blocks or several wheels folded in a stack will do;
Before removing the brake drum, make sure the wheel is completely released. In this case, the handbrake lever must be lowered, the wheel rotates freely;
The decorative cap is removed. To do this, disconnect it by prying up the fasteners with a screwdriver;
The gap between the flange and the drum is moistened with penetrating lubricant (liquid wrench, WD-40);
The brake drum is secured with two screws, they must be unscrewed. For this you will need a key “12”;
Gently tap the drum with a hammer so you can move it relative to the axle shaft;
In some cases, the drum can be removed quite easily. But sometimes you have to shoot him down. To do this, it is necessary to strike the rim of the drum with a hammer from the back side. Just do this through a block, otherwise you can damage the drum;
The screws holding the axle shaft and the drum casing are unscrewed;
The bridge rises slightly;
The shock absorber bracket should be removed from the axle bearing plate;
The axle shaft is removed; for this you will need a special puller. If it is not there, then you can do without it. To do this, put the wheel on the axle shaft. Screw on 3 nuts, but so that there is free space between them. We press the wheel against the axle and pull it harder towards us. After several passes, seasoned with strong words, the axle shaft should move. All that remains is to extract it;
Now you can change the oil seal. Remove it using a screwdriver. Just pry the oil seal in a convenient place and pull it out;
To install, the new oil seal is pressed back in, and the removed part is used as a mandrel.

Important nuances

The dynamometer readings were mentioned above, and this is no coincidence. Tightening the flange is a very responsible process, and it can only be done using a torque wrench. This allows you to avoid excessive squeezing of the oil seal, which leads to a violation of the tightness of the entire gearbox. This is done like this: if at the first measurement the force on the dynamometer was 2.8 - 3 kg, then the force on the torque wrench when tightening should not exceed 6.3 kg. If the dynamometer showed 4.3 kg, then when tightening the key there should be no more than 9 kg, etc. If the dynamometer showed 2.7 kg, and the key when tightened shows 9 kg or more, it means that the gearbox adjusting sleeve is completely worn out and needs for urgent replacement.

After removal, the flange should be carefully inspected for severe abrasions and cracks. If there are any, the flange must be replaced. If this is not done, the new oil seal will very quickly become unusable.

Before driving the oil seal with a tube, it is recommended to lubricate it with lithol. This makes it much easier to fit the new oil seal into its original place. When striking a pipe with a hammer, there is no need to be too zealous: with a strong blow, the pipe easily cuts the seal.

Malfunctions

There are three main signs of problems in the operation of the node:

A crunching sound that occurs from the front axle, which intensifies when the steering wheel is turned to its extreme position. It occurs when constant velocity joints wear out. These parts cannot be repaired, so they should be replaced with new ones.
Vibration and noise in the area of the front axle, which occurs when the wheel drive shaft is deformed. It can only be eliminated by replacing the damaged part.
Leakage of lubricant from CV joints. The cause of the malfunction is a damaged boot, which must be replaced immediately. If this is not done in time, you will also have to change the CV joint, which quickly wears out when dirt gets in.

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to provide access to the lower part of the car by installing it on an overpass or inspection hole.

To change drives you will need:

Balloon wrench.
Jack.
Keys for 13, 17 and 27.

Replacing the drive is done as follows:

Unscrew the cardan from the front gearbox.
Jack up the car.
Remove the front wheels.
Unscrew the shock absorbers from the lower control arms.
Unscrew the nuts holding the CV joint bearing housings.
Unscrew the gearbox from the front suspension cross member. To do this, you will need to unscrew the bolts and nuts holding the housing and fastening the suspension brackets of the unit.
Raise the gearbox and secure it in the raised position.
Remove the protective cap from the front wheel hub and unscrew the nut.
Remove the centering sleeve.
Raise the front lower control arm by compressing the suspension spring.
Unscrew the ball joint.
Move the steering knuckle to the side.
Unscrew the fastening and move the exhaust pipe away from the exhaust manifold (this operation is necessary when replacing the right-hand drive).
Pull the gearbox back.
Remove the drive.

Installation is performed in the reverse order of removal.

Important: when tightening the wheel hubs, it is necessary to adjust the clearances in the wheel bearings

Step-by-step instructions for DIY replacement

After installing the vehicle on the inspection hole, it is secured using anti-recoil devices. It is recommended to disable the handbrake first. To remove the old seal, you must first disassemble the rear hub assembly and remove the axle shaft.

The unit must be disassembled in strict accordance with the instructions:

The wheel nuts are loosening. After this, jack up the car and remove the wheel.
There may be rust on the rear axle shoulder that extends past the brake drum that needs to be removed. The part is additionally treated with lubricant.
There are two fastening bolts on the drum, to unscrew them you will need a 12 mm wrench. The drum is gently tapped with a hammer, which allows it to move.
You can use 2 methods to remove the drum. It is squeezed out using bolts that are provided for fastening. The drum is knocked down with a hammer. The procedure is performed as carefully as possible to avoid damage to the edges.
The axle shaft seat is cleaned, which will ensure easy removal of the drum in the future.

The next step is to remove the axle shaft. The Chevrolet Niva has 4 bolts designed to secure the axle. The shock absorber is held in place by a bracket located on the other side of the axle shaft. Once all the bolts are removed, the shock absorber will not hold the rear axle, which is pushed down by the spring.

If oil leaks, you need to jack up the vehicle higher and place a container to collect the fluid under the work area. If the rear axle stocking rests in an inclined position in the other direction, this will eliminate the oil leak.

If the shock absorber is attached to the spring cup, there is no need to unscrew it. In this case, do not use a stand. To unscrew the 4 bolts that secure the rear axle shaft, you must use a 17 mm wrench

When performing the procedure, pay attention to the growers, which should not be in the rear mechanism. If the old groover gets lost and the technician installs a new part, it will get caught in the space between the drum and the shoe, causing the wheel to jam in the vehicle.

After unscrewing the bolts, the axle shaft is removed with a sharp movement along with the bearing. If you can’t pull it out of the holder, it is recommended to secure the wheel to the stud with three nuts and pull it firmly. At home, you can tie the wheel to the garage door with a rope. They knock on the gate with a hammer and the axle shaft comes out of the cage.

After dismantling the axle shaft, the technician will have access to the metal shield intended for attaching the brake pads. It is fixed with two upper bolts, which are inserted into the holes. The remaining actions are performed in accordance with the instructions:

There is a thick rubber lining on the rear axle flange, which is recommended to be removed.
The old oil seal is pryed off with pliers or a screwdriver and removed from its installation location, which must be cleaned and wiped with a rag.
Apply a small amount of transmission oil to the new seal. It is installed in a seat in a level position.
The oil seal is pressed with a round attachment, which is made from a pipe. To avoid damage to the rubber gasket, it is recommended to use the old oil seal during pressing.

After replacing the oil seal, all parts are cleaned of oil - pads, brake cylinder, metal shield and drum. Before assembling the axle shaft, it is recommended to inspect its bearing. If there is no lubrication, the part is processed. If signs of bearing wear are observed, it is replaced with a new part. The need for replacement is determined by sticking or slight noise or difficulty rotating. If malfunctions are observed, then the axle shaft should be taken to a service center, since the bearing can only be replaced with special equipment.

Upon completion of the oil seal replacement work, the oil in the rear axle gearbox is checked. To do this, unscrew the filler plug from the gearbox casing and visually determine the amount of fluid. If there is not enough oil, it is added through a hose that is inserted into the filler neck.

Tools and preparation for replacement

To change a part, you need to install the machine on a lift or inspection pit. To replace it yourself you will need:

new oil seal;
standard set of wrenches;
hammer;
pliers;
a powerful wrench (without it it will not be possible to unscrew and tighten the shank nut);
large flat screwdriver;
puller;
universal or key for fixing the shank flange;
durable elastic cord;
canter scale or dynamometer;
torque wrench.

Instead of a wrench, you can use a homemade device in the form of two M8 bolts and a wrench to hold the shank flange. With their help, it will be possible to reliably keep the part from turning. To do this you need to: insert the bolts into the holes in the flange and place the knob between them.

It is important to use this improvised device correctly. The driver must be inserted in front of the flange, not behind it.

Otherwise, you may accidentally knock down the mud deflector.

Replacement process

As mentioned above, before starting work you should drive onto an overpass or pit. If you don’t have one, then you can make races from boards, but this is not entirely safe, and it will be less convenient to work this way. But, if necessary, you can use this option. Also, moisten all threaded connections with liquid wrench in advance; as a rule, all elements and structures located on the bridge are susceptible to corrosion. After processing, it will be much easier to unscrew them. Place wheel chocks under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling away.

Repairs are carried out in the following order

If the car was parked on the handbrake, be sure to remove it from the brake;
The lubricant is drained from the gearbox; this must be done carefully into a previously prepared container. After draining, be sure to screw the plug back into place;
Remove the brake drum;
Next, unscrew the four nuts that secure the axle bearing;
Raise the bridge a little;
The shock absorber bracket is removed;
Using a puller, remove the axle shaft. They do the same on the other side.

After this you can proceed to dismantling the cardan

We mark the position of the cardan and axle flanges relative to each other;
Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the cardan; for convenience, it is worth stopping the cardan shaft from turning with a screwdriver. Tie the removed shaft with wire so that it does not interfere.

The work is now complete, all that remains is to mount all the removed parts in place. This happens in reverse order. When tightening the flange nut, check the resistance to turning it; the indicator should be equal to the original one.

Similar problems on other models

. Almost all cars equipped with a rear axle have a problem with lubricant leaking through the gearbox flange. But, knowing how to replace the rear axle gear seal of a Niva Chevrolet, you can do similar work on other cars without any problems.

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What tool is required for the job?

Once the tool is prepared, you can begin to work by performing the following series of actions:

Lower the parking brake all the way down
Drain the oil from the rear axle gearbox
Both axle shafts are removed
Disconnect the cardan drive from the flange drive gear
Unscrew the nut that secures the flange
Let's take it off
Using a screwdriver, remove the old oil seal
Lubricate the outer edge of the new oil seal and install it in place using a mandrel of suitable diameter.
Screw the nut and washer into place

At this point, the work on replacing the oil seal on the Chevrolet Niva can be considered completed. The removed parts are installed in the reverse order of removal. If difficulties arise during the replacement, then it is better to contact a specialized service, where specialists will carry out the replacement.

Preparation and disassembly

To independently remove a leaking rear axle oil seal on a Niva Chevrolet, you will need the following tools:

standard set of wrenches;
slotted screwdriver and wheel wrench;
jack;
hammer;
wooden stand;
cloth gloves.

Never neglect gloves when repairing a car: they will protect your hands from damage due to accidental impacts. The height of the wooden stand should be enough to support the rear axle with the wheel removed and the shock absorber unscrewed, otherwise oil will leak from it.

Before removing the old seal, you will have to disassemble the rear hub assembly and remove the axle shaft. Disassembly is carried out in the following sequence:

Place the car on a level surface and secure it with wheel chocks. Make sure the handbrake is turned off.
Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Clean the rear axle flange that protrudes beyond the brake drum from rust. Additionally, you can treat this area with WD-40 lubricant.
Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the drum with a 12 mm wrench, then gently tap with a hammer to move it out of place.
The drum is removed in 2 ways: by squeezing it out with the same bolts, screwed into other holes, or by knocking it with a hammer through a piece of wood. The methods can be combined, just be careful not to damage the edge of the drum with the blows.
After dismantling, clean the seat on the axle shaft again to make the drum easier to remove.

The next step is unscrewing and removing the axle shaft. In the VAZ 2131 Niva Chevrolet, 4 bolts securing it are held on the other side by a bracket holding the shock absorber.

After unscrewing the bolts, the shock absorber will no longer hold the rear axle, and the spring will push it down, causing oil to flow.

To avoid this, you need to first adjust the stand by jacking the car higher. The rear axle “stocking” must rest with a slope in the other direction so that the oil does not leak out.

Since in a regular Niva VAZ 21214 and 21213 the shock absorber is attached to the spring cup, and not to the rear hub, there is no need to unscrew it. A stand is also not needed here; a jack is enough to lift it.

The 4 bolts holding the rear axle shaft are unscrewed with a 17 mm wrench

Pay attention to the growers: they should not get lost in the brake mechanism. If you ignore the loss of the groover and install a new one, then the old one will subsequently get between the block and the drum while driving and the wheel will jam

After unscrewing the bolts, with a sharp movement, remove the axle shaft with the bearing from the cage. If this fails, attach the wheel to the studs with 3 nuts and try to pull it. The last option is to use a special inertial puller for removal. There is also a popular method: tie the axle shaft with a rope to an iron garage door and hit it with a hammer to knock it out of the cage. But for this you need to carefully park the car closer to the gate.