Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal
We replace the front crankshaft oil seal when traces of engine oil leakage appear on the wall of the engine crankcase pan, under the generator drive pulley.
Remove the timing belt (see “Checking the condition and replacing the timing belt”). After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be rotated to avoid disruption of the engine valve timing and sticking of the timing valves into the pistons. On both sides, we insert the blades of slotted screwdrivers between the oil pump cover and the rear end of the crankshaft timing pulley.
Carefully, so as not to damage the toothed pulley, pry it evenly with screwdrivers...
...and remove the pulley from the crankshaft toe.
...remove it from the oil pump cover. In contrast to the front crankshaft oil seal of the previous generation VAZ-2108, -21114 engines, to increase the service life...
...the manufacturer installs an imported oil seal (with dimensions 28×42×6 mm), made of less elastic material and without a bracelet spring. In the absence of a new imported oil seal, you can install the front oil seal (with dimensions 28×42×7 mm) of the crankshaft of the previous generation VAZ-2108, -21114 engines. Before installing the new oil seal, apply a thin layer of engine oil to its working edge...
...and press in the oil seal using a tool head or a piece of pipe of a suitable size. We perform assembly in reverse order. In this case, it is imperative to replace the timing belt.
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Replacing the water pump and crankshaft and camshaft seals
In order to replace the water pump , or, as it is often called, the water pump, we remove the front right wheel. Open the hood. The pump is located under the rear timing belt cover, which drives it.
Attention! In the worst case, a pump failure can lead to major engine repairs. Therefore, you should not test its strength.
Unscrew the expansion tank cap.
There should be no pressure in the cooling system. We jack up the car on the side we will be working on, or use a lift. Remove the engine protection from the bottom of the car.
Remove the flywheel protection from the gearbox housing by unscrewing the three fastening nuts.
Drain the antifreeze. There is a conical antifreeze drain plug in the middle of the engine block, next to the gearbox. Using head No. 13, unscrew it and pour the antifreeze into a pre-prepared container - a canister or bucket.
We screw the plug back. We clamp it.
Having loosened the tension, remove the generator drive belt.
You can read more about removing and installing the drive belt in the article “Replacing the generator drive belt and tension pulley . Now you need to remove the timing belt. To do this, remove the crankshaft pulley. Using socket No. 17, unscrew the central bolt of the pulley.
Remove the pulley, then the belt protective cover.
We align the timing belt with gears strictly according to the marks.
Loosen the tension roller and remove the belt.
Details about removing and installing the timing belt are described in the article “Replacing the timing belt and tension pulley” . This is an important part of the job, so be sure to read this article to ensure everything is done correctly. Having locked the camshaft gear, use wrench No. 17 to unscrew the bolt securing it.
If the gear is tight, you can gently push it with two screwdrivers, one opposite the other.
We remove the gear. We make sure that the key does not fall out. Then, using head No. 10, unscrew the nut and bolt securing the cover, and then use wrench No. 10 to unscrew the 3 nuts securing the pump.
Remove the cover and remove the pump.
We install a new pump.
After removing the old pump, you should clean the area where it meets from gasket residues. Clean it with sandpaper and degrease it. We apply sealant to the place where the pump adheres to the engine - this is necessary in order to eliminate possible leakage due to a loose fit of the new gasket. We also treat the sealing area with sealant.
We fix the gasket on the pump. We install the pump in place.
Since all contact surfaces are treated with sealant, this must be done carefully in order to install the pump correctly the first time. We install the metal protection in place.
We tighten the three pump mounting bolts and tighten them. We tighten the fastening bolt and nut of the cover.
Now let's check if the seals are leaking. Let's inspect the camshaft seal. Oil drips indicate the need to replace it.
We are fine! However, for clarity, we will show how to replace the camshaft oil seal. Use a small screwdriver to pry up the oil seal and remove it.
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We wipe the seat from dirt. The seating surface of the oil seal should be treated with sealant to avoid cracks and leakage. Carefully install the new camshaft oil seal.
The crankshaft oil seal is changed in the same way. Reinstall the camshaft gear. We place the fastening bolt on thread sealant.
Having locked the gear, firmly tighten the fastening bolt.
We put on the timing belt. We follow the marks. We stretch. Checking the tension. Install the belt protective cover.
Read more in the article “Replacing the timing belt and tension pulley.” We install the crankshaft pulley with the groove on the key.
We install the pulley mounting bolt with thread sealant. Having secured the flywheel with a screwdriver, firmly clamp the central bolt.
We put on the generator belt. We stretch.
Read more in the article “Replacing the belt and tension roller of the generator drive.” Then we start the engine and check that everything is installed correctly. There should be no extraneous noise. Screw on the flywheel protection.
It is recommended to change the pump every 60 thousand km. And since to replace the pump it is necessary to remove the timing belt, it is advisable to combine these operations. We install the wheel. We fill in the drained antifreeze, after which it is necessary to remove air from the cooling system. For details on how to do this correctly, read the article “Replacing the coolant” .
Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal of the Lada Granta engine (VAZ 11183, 21116)
We replace the front crankshaft oil seal when traces of engine oil leakage appear on the wall of the engine crankcase pan, under the generator drive pulley.
Remove the timing belt (see “Checking the condition and replacing the timing belt”).
After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be rotated to avoid disruption of the engine valve timing and sticking of the timing valves into the pistons. On both sides, we insert the blades of slotted screwdrivers between the oil pump cover and the rear end of the crankshaft timing pulley.
Carefully, so as not to damage the toothed pulley, pry it evenly with screwdrivers...
...and remove the pulley from the crankshaft toe.
...remove it from the oil pump cover. Unlike the front crankshaft oil seal of the previous generation VAZ-2108, -21114 engines to increase the service life...
...the manufacturer installs an imported oil seal (with dimensions 28×42×6 mm), made of less elastic material and without a bracelet spring. In the absence of a new imported oil seal, you can install the front oil seal (with dimensions 28×42×7 mm) of the crankshaft of the previous generation VAZ-2108, -21114 engines. Before installing the new oil seal, apply a thin layer of engine oil to its working edge...
...and press in the oil seal using a tool head or a piece of pipe of a suitable size. We perform assembly in reverse order. In this case, it is imperative to replace the timing belt.
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Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal Lada Granta
Tools (for 8 valve engines):
- 5 mm hex key
- Screw jack
- Wheel key
- Medium flat screwdriver - 2 pcs.
- Driver for socket attachment
- 10mm wrench attachment
- 17mm wrench attachment
- 15 mm straight box spanner
- 8mm curved box spanner
- Large hammer
- Tool head (for pressing the oil seal)
- Special wrench for tension roller or circlip pliers
Tools (for 16 valve engines):
- Open-end wrench 10 mm
- Open-end wrench 13 mm
- Open-end wrench 19 mm
- 15 mm straight box spanner
- 17mm curved box spanner
- Screw jack
- Wheel key
- Large flat screwdriver
- Medium flat screwdriver
- Medium Phillips screwdriver
- 5 mm hex key
- Ratchet wrench
- 8 mm head
- Large hammer
- Tool head (for pressing the oil seal)
- Special wrench for turning the tension roller (or circlip remover)
Parts and consumables:
- Front crankshaft oil seal
- Timing belt
- Shoe - 2 pcs.
- White spirit degreaser
- Engine oil
- Rags
Replace the front crankshaft oil seal when traces of engine oil leakage appear on the wall of the engine crankcase pan, under the generator drive pulley.
1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke, as written here (for 8-valve engines) or here (for the VAZ-21126 engine).
3. Remove the timing belt (for 8-valve engines or for 16-valve engines).
After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be rotated to avoid disruption of the engine valve timing and sticking of the timing valves into the pistons.
4. On both sides, insert the blades of the slotted screwdrivers between the oil pump cover and the rear end of the crankshaft timing pulley and carefully pry it evenly so as not to damage the timing pulley.
5. Remove the pulley from the crankshaft toe.
6. Using a screwdriver, pry up the oil seal and remove it from the oil pump cover.
Removing and replacing the camshaft of Lada Granta with VAZ 11183, VAZ 21116 and VAZ 11186 engines
Tools:
- Ratchet wrench
- Extension
- 8 mm head
- 10 mm head
- 13 mm head
- Open-end wrench 10 mm
- Open-end wrench 13 mm
- Open-end wrench 19 mm
- 15 mm straight box spanner
- 17 mm straight box spanner
- Curved box spanner 8 mm
- Large flat screwdriver
- Medium flat screwdriver
- Medium Phillips screwdriver
- Torque wrench
- Driver for socket attachment
- 17mm wrench attachment
- 5 mm hex key
- Special wrench for turning the tension roller (or circlip remover)
- A key for fixing the camshaft pulley (or an extension for the end attachment on the wrench)
- Universal puller (if necessary)
- Funnel
- Tool head
- Valve adjustment tool
- Tweezers
- Micrometer
Parts and consumables:
- Head cover gasket (if necessary)
- Rubber sealing bushings for securing the cylinder head cover
- Camshaft (if necessary)
- Cylinder head plug bolt ring (if necessary)
- Cylinder head plug gasket (if necessary)
- Camshaft oil seal
- A piece of pipe with a diameter of 25 mm and a length of 100 mm (for pressing in the oil seal)
- Technical capacity
- Engine oil
- Sealant
- Shims (if necessary)
- Rags
Note:
Remove the camshaft to replace the shaft itself, valve lifters, valve stem seals, and when repairing the cylinder head.
Removing the camshaft
1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery on the car.
2. Set the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position, as written here.
3. Remove the cylinder head cover as described here.
4. Remove the camshaft pulley and rear timing cover as described in this article.
5. Disconnect the wire connector from the phase sensor by pressing its lock.
6. Using a 10 mm wrench, remove the two nuts and bolt securing the cylinder head plug.
Note:
The connection between the bolt and the plug is sealed with a rubber ring; do not lose it when removing the bolt. Replace a heavily compressed, hardened or torn ring.
7. Remove the plug from the cylinder head studs.
8. Remove the rubber gasket installed in the groove of the flange of the removed plug.
Note:
Severely compressed, hardened or torn rubber gasket must be replaced.
9. Using a 13 mm socket, evenly in several steps (until the pressure of the valve springs is relieved), unscrew the ten nuts securing the camshaft bearing housings.
10. Remove both camshaft bearing housings from the cylinder head studs.
11. Remove the camshaft from the cylinder head beds.
12. Before installing the camshaft, clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and bearing housings from any remaining old sealant.
Camshaft Installation
1. Apply a thin layer of engine oil to the camshaft bearing journals and cams.
2. Place the camshaft in the cylinder head bed so that the cams of the valve shaft of the 1st cylinder are positioned as in the figure below.
Note:
In this case, the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders must be in the TDC position.
3. Apply a thin layer of sealant to the surfaces of the cylinder head mating with the camshaft bearing housings in the area of the outer supports.
4. Install the camshaft bearing housings and tighten the nuts securing them in two steps. Pre-tighten the nuts securing the bearing housings until their mating surfaces touch the cylinder head in the specified sequence.
Note:
In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the installation bushings of the bearing housings fit freely into their seats.
5. Finally tighten the nuts to the specified torque in the same sequence.
6. After tightening the nuts, carefully remove any remaining sealant squeezed out of the gaps.
7. Press in a new camshaft oil seal.
8. Install the timing belt as described here.
9. Check and, if necessary, adjust valve clearances as described in this article.
10. Carry out further assembly in reverse order.
The article is missing:
- Photo of the instrument
- Photos of parts and consumables
Crankshaft oil seal leaking: causes of wear, breakdown
Symptoms of the problem: oil leak in the engine compartment, increased oil consumption. You can often see grease flowing onto the ground under a stationary machine. Of course, constantly topping it up does not solve the problem - you need to change the seals themselves.
There are several reasons why a leak forms:
- improper installation of gaskets, resulting in the formation of cracks on their working surfaces;
- oil flows when the engine overheats frequently, with high pressure in the crankcase (in winter, when ice plugs form);
- natural, physical wear and tear of the material;
- mechanical damage, resulting in leakage;
- low-quality material (typical for domestic products).
High-quality crankshaft seals are made of fluorine rubber FPM or silicone. Regular nitrile butadiene rubber quickly burns out, falls apart and leaks.
Features of oil seals
Some crankshaft gaskets have inclined grooves to allow oil to escape. They need to be placed correctly, according to the arrow on the ring body. It indicates in which direction the shaft rotates.
If it is not possible to select imported products, you have to use domestic ones.
They choose red-brown ones - they are made of fluorine rubber and are of the highest quality; such a crankshaft oil seal leaks less often.
This is interesting: Transmissions switch off spontaneously Lada Granta
Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal
The front crankshaft seal is located on the engine cover or oil pump housing. Most often it is he who leaks. There are motors whose cover is integral with the oil pump.
On foreign car engines, the crankshaft gasket is covered by timing and generator pulleys. They need to be removed. Old Zhiguli engines are simpler; the timing chain is located inside the crankcase; only the generator pulley and belt need to be removed.
To eliminate oil leaks and replace the seal on engines with a timing belt with a gear drive, it is necessary to remove the gear wheels (pulleys): generator, belt. The belt itself is also removed.
Before this, they are set according to the marks corresponding to the location of the first cylinder at TDC (top dead center) in a compressed state. The marks - pulley and crankcase - must match. On other units, the mark on the camshaft wheel should be placed opposite the block connector and the engine head. This adjustment is necessary for the valve timing cycles to work correctly. It is enough to align only the camshaft roller according to the mark.
Next, you need to loosen the tension wheel and remove the belt. Then the gear is removed from the front section of the crankshaft. Use a special puller or two screwdrivers. In units with a chain, only the generator pulley needs to be removed.
After this, remove the old ring through which the oil flows using a special device. If it is not there, then you can dismantle the oil seal cover (or oil pump) on the engine block. This is where the seal is located. It is easier to remove it from the dismantled cover.
To remove the wheel drive belt, you may also need a jack, in which case the front right wheel is removed. The front cover on the motor is secured with 4-6 bolts. After unscrewing, you need to carefully peel it off and change the gasket located there. Place the cover with the seal on a flat surface, and, using a screwdriver, remove the seal.
Replacement is in progress. A new crankshaft oil seal, lubricated with sealant, is pressed into place using a mandrel. It can be played by a piece of pipe, a tool socket head 1-2 mm smaller than the circumference of the gasket, a “27” head (nozzle) or an old oil seal will work well. After this, you need to lubricate the edge of the seal and install the cover. The oil seal is carefully placed with a cover onto the lubricated crankshaft and tightened with bolts.
The leak is eliminated, everything returns to its place: the timing pulley with teeth (both marks must match), the timing belt is installed using a tension roller.
A useful video about replacing the front oil seal can be viewed here:
How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut?
This procedure is easier to perform using a lever and an extension for it (you can use a relatively long piece of pipe), as well as a socket or socket wrench (38 or 36). A nut, called a “ratchet,” is usually used to secure pulleys on rear-wheel drive vehicles. Such a nut usually has special ledges.
To remove it, you need to get under the car and try to unscrew the element with a wrench and extension. In cases where it absolutely does not lend itself, the gearbox should be put in neutral, the spark plugs should be removed, the key and lever rested on the side member or floor, and an impulse should be given by turning the ignition switch. After this procedure, the nut easily comes off on the first or second try.
Let us add that a device for removing the crankshaft pulley makes the dismantling process easier. It consists of a nut with a pin with 2-3 grips attached to them (the pin rests on the center of the shaft, the grips are placed over the edges of the pulley). Such a “folk” puller makes it possible to pull the pulley off the shaft without any problems by turning the device clockwise.
To replace the crankshaft pulley , remove the front right wheel. We jack up the car on the side we will be working on or use a lift.
Remove the engine protection.
Loosen and remove the generator belt.
The crankshaft pulley is clamped with a large torque.
If there is no pneumatic impact wrench with an impact head, then using a screwdriver to lock the flywheel, use head No. 17 to unscrew the central bolt of the pulley. It's better to do this with an assistant.
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We remove the pulley. We install the new crankshaft pulley with the groove on the key.
We put the central bolt of the pulley on thread sealant. Having secured the flywheel with a screwdriver, firmly clamp the central bolt. We put on the generator belt. Let's pull it on.
We install engine protection. We start the engine and check that everything is working properly. Problems associated with pulley failure should disappear. In addition, there should be no extraneous noise from the alternator belt and roller.
Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal
If an oil leak has formed through the rear crankshaft seal, then an inspection hole is needed, since it will be necessary to dismantle the drive elements or driveshaft on rear-wheel drive vehicles. Sometimes a leak in the crankshaft rear oil seal can be eliminated by placing the car on jacks or supports - this is unsafe and is strictly not recommended. You will also have to remove the heavy gearbox. After dismantling it, we also remove the clutch disc. Next comes the flywheel with casing.
Types and location of oil seals on the crankshaft
Oil seals are used in various elements of the car, including the crankshaft. They ensure that the lubricating fluid does not leave the engine. The element is made in the shape of a ring with an elastic inner edge and also has a rigid outer ring. A spring is used to strengthen the inner edge. It prevents oil from escaping. The devices installed in any car can be of two types:
- Rear oil seal. It is characterized by high wear resistance, which is reflected in service life equivalent to the period of use of the vehicle. It has bulky dimensions.
- Front oil seal. The device is slightly smaller in size and is also more prone to wear. The module is located in the oil pump cover. To gain access to it, you need to disconnect the timing belt element. The oil seal itself is located under the lower crankshaft pulley.
Inspection to identify oil leaks
If there is a suspicion that the presented device is operating incorrectly, the driver will first need to determine which oil seal is leaking. If a flaw is observed in the rear of the engine, you need to conduct a visual inspection of the pan and gearbox unit. In order to determine whether there is a leak of working fluid, you need to drop a little water onto the pan and observe: if transformer oil is leaking, it will spread over the surface, motor oil will stick to a single drop.
Causes of leaks
The most common causes of oil seal leaks are the following factors.
- Achieving a car mileage of 100 thousand kilometers. In such situations, under the influence of the vibration effect of the crankshaft, the inner part of the oil seal wears out. As a result, it no longer fits tightly to the box and will contribute to the flow of working fluid.
- Drying of the oil seal, which is associated with the use of low-quality oil. This often occurs if the working fluid is kept at low temperatures for a long time.
- Poor quality of the part or its incorrect installation, which should also not be excluded as the cause of the breakdown.
- Malfunctions in the engine itself. The most common failure in this case is an increase in crankcase gas pressure, which leads to displacement of the oil seal.
- The oil filter is leaking, as a result of which the problem is unlikely to be solved only by replacing the oil seal.
Signs of cap failure
Due to the fact that the main working element subject to wear is rubber, over time the material loses its elasticity and begins to leak oil. Reasons that have a negative impact on the product:
- aggressive working conditions;
- low-quality materials;
- natural development of the product resource;
- damage to the element as a result of its incorrect installation or removal.
Indeed, low-quality or outdated materials used in the manufacture of caps significantly reduce their service life. If we talk about natural wear and tear, then its average interval is 20,000 kilometers of a car. As a result of the constant work of the part, the elastic, rubber material hardens over time and begins to wear out and wear out. Damage to the product during poor-quality repair work is a fairly common problem. The fact is that to remove the oil seals, a special puller is required. Some car enthusiasts, when disassembling the engine, pry off the caps using two flat-head screwdrivers, which leads to damage to the valve guides.
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Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal
Replacing any part or assembly of a vehicle always takes place in two stages: removing the old worn-out module and installing a new one. Crankshaft seals will be no exception. Such a repair cannot be done without a hammer and a screwdriver, but before you start work, you need to stock up on the necessary tools to perform the following procedures: removing the gas distribution mechanism drive, removing the cylinder head cover. The replacement process for the front oil seal itself consists of three steps.
STEP 1. First, remove the timing belt from all pulleys. After this, using two flat-head screwdrivers, lift the gear-type pulley, which must be removed from the crankshaft toe.
STEP 2. Using a screwdriver, remove the worn element from the cover, after which it is lubricated with engine oil. A new oil seal requires the same treatment with working fluid.
STEP 3. The repairman must press the new oil seal into the desired location using a pipe of a certain diameter or a mandrel. This field is repeated in reverse order, everything that was specified in the first step.
Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal
Replacement of the crankshaft rear oil seal is carried out in an inspection pit or using a lift. The work involves removing the gearbox. During this procedure, all adjacent nodes should be additionally inspected. This is due to the fact that removing the gearbox is a rather complex and time-consuming process. Due to the high wear resistance of the rear oil seal, it is extremely rare to resort to such actions.
Replacing the oil seal for rear wheel drive vehicles
STEP 1. First of all, the cardan transmission is removed, followed by disconnecting the starter and clutch slave cylinder (removed entirely along with the hose).
STEP 2. The speedometer cable and reverse gear wire are disconnected. After this, you need to release the gearbox slide in the vehicle interior.
STEP 3. Remove the bolts connecting the gearbox and engine. After this, the cross member (rear mount) of the gearbox is removed.
After removing the clutch basket and disc, flywheel and shield, unimpeded access to the oil seal will be provided. The crankshaft oil seal is replaced using a self-tapping screw, which is placed on the edge and gradually screwed into it. First, you need to hit the tool a little so that it goes into the metal more easily. The most successful would be to use a device used during apartment renovations to secure the profile.
After several turns of tightening, the worn out oil seal is pulled out using pliers. In some cases, several screws can be used to achieve greater effect.
Replacing the oil seal for front-wheel drive vehicles
Initially, the left front wheel is removed. Before doing this, you need to loosen the axle nut, which will eventually be completely unscrewed. This will allow the strut to be moved from the axle shaft. Sometimes you have to remove the steering pin in the fastening.
Along with replacing the oil seal, it is necessary to inspect the bearing in the crankshaft, which includes the input shaft of the gearbox: when it sticks and makes noise when turning, you need to install a new one.
After completing the replacement of the oil seal, all procedures must be carried out exactly the opposite.
How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt - solving the problem
The pulleys of front-wheel drive cars are usually secured with a bolt. In such vehicles, the pulley is oriented perpendicular to the axis of the machine, which, of course, complicates repair work (it is very difficult to get to the fastening). In order to unscrew the bolt as quickly and easily as possible, it is advisable to prepare in advance:
- set of auto tools;
- the so-called “stump” (or “tragus”);
- car jack;
- head (socket) with a lever and extension (the head must be selected according to the size of the bolt).
The process with these devices is as follows:
- remove the wheel (of course, before doing this you need to lift the front right part of the car with a jack);
- we install the vehicle on the “stump”;
- remove the engine shield, which protects it from dirt, the air filter (they are located on the top side of the hood) and the generator belt;
- open the plug on the clutch block so that you can fix the crankshaft, and wedge the flywheel teeth using a pry bar;
- We put the head on the bolt and begin to unscrew it (if it does not give in, we slowly increase the length of the lever).
