Replacing the supply pipe of the pump VAZ 2114 injector 8 valves

Supply pipe of the coolant pump VAZ 2114

Not even after 20 thousand the pump started leaking.
I also noticed that antifreeze was leaking at the junction of the pump supply pipe and the block. For those who don’t know, it is located at the rear of the block, in the most inconvenient place in the front-wheel drive family. At first the pump did not flow much, then a river appeared.

I chose the time and started replacing. I carefully drained the antifreeze and had to come up with a whole system. It was not difficult to remove everything. When I removed the carburetor heating hose, I saw that it was all cracked and dry. It's strange that it hasn't leaked yet.

The oil seal on the pump leaked and a creaking sound appeared when rotating. The gasket on the supply pipe is rotten. In principle, I could have left the old pipe, but I immediately stocked up on a new one.

I bought the pump from Mstart

.
To be honest, I have never heard of this, but the seller assured me that it was good. I immediately took a roller of some kind, a Continental Contitech
, I had heard a lot about its quality.

I cleaned the seats of old gaskets and spent a long time fiddling with the seat pipes. It was very inconvenient, I had to jack up the car and clean it while lying under it. I wiped off the old traces of antifreeze a little to suddenly see a new leak.

While I was taking pictures of the whole thing, in the light of the flash I saw fogging on the intake manifold. You'll have to change the gasket.

The new pipe laying was sealed with sealant. It is extremely inconvenient to put it in place. While baiting, I reapplied the sealant 2 more times: it had time to dry, and rubbed a callus on my finger. Tightening is also inconvenient; you can’t get anything in there except a spanner.

I assembled everything, installed it, tightened it. Replaced the carburetor heating hose. Filled with antifreeze. Everything is fine. Everything is working.

After that I drove another 1000 km. Everything is dry, you can only see that the belt has eaten a little. Now I'm wondering why he's slipping. Most likely the pump is crooked. We'll watch.

Well, according to tradition - smooth roads to everyone))

Price tag: 1,500 ₽ Mileage: 200,300 km

FakeHeader

Comments 12

Did you manage to align the belt?

No, I didn’t do anything to the belt, it didn’t eat it at all anymore

Regarding the sealant 2 times, and calluses on the fingers I will say. The sealant hardens tightly due to high temperature, but what you are talking about simply crusts over in the open air. In chemistry it looks like I got a bad grade. Calluses from stupidity, a bad head does not give rest to the hands. This is not an insult, no offense. I speak as I see it. You can climb into the internal combustion engine of a VAZ in any position. Without removing the cylinder head, you can do everything that is impossible on another head. Like two fingers on the asphalt. The main thing is to have the necessary tools in hand. And the strength of desire to achieve the desired goal. Then you, even with leaky wheels, will leave point A and reach point B without problems and on time. I drove 100 km there and 100 km back with a shrapnel the size of my thumb in the box. There was no oil there at all. Only the buzzing is terrible. The main thing is the feeling of the spirit of the car itself. Mine knows me and helps. Thanks to her for this. and AMEN.

A leak in the coolant supply pipe on VAZ family cars can lead to serious damage and overheating of the engine. To fix the defect yourself, you will need a new pipe and a set of tools. There is no point in contacting and overpaying the service center technicians. The replacement procedure is accessible even to a novice car enthusiast.

Diagnostics and identification of supply pipe faults

A malfunction of the cooling system associated with an antifreeze leak is manifested by a decrease in its level in the expansion tank and a critical reading of the temperature sensor.

Mechanical damage to the supply pipe or its depressurization in the area of ​​attachment to the pump or engine block may be accompanied by:

• The release of steam in the engine compartment due to coolant entering the “pants” of the manifold.
• The appearance of a stain from leaked antifreeze where the car is parked, VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112, VAZ 2114 and Priora - in the area of ​​the front part, VAZ 2109 - between the engine and the passenger compartment.

Breakdown and signs

There are several characteristic signs based on which you can recognize the failure of the coolant pump:

• A hum or a rustling sound appears near the timing drive;
• There are traces of coolant leakage from the pump seat;
• Mechanical damage occurred to the belt - cracked, delaminated, teeth broke;
• The engine began to overheat excessively;
• The coolant level drops below normal, even when topping up;
• Liquid does not circulate well through the system.

Most often the pump fails due to bearing failure. It, in turn, breaks due to wear or incorrect installation of the timing belt tension. If such problems are found, the pump must be completely replaced.

Consequences of ignoring

If you ignore a pump breakdown and do not take any action to repair or replace it, this can lead to dire consequences. Namely:

1. The timing belt is damaged or broken. It will then have to be repaired, the cylinder head, gas distribution mechanism, and piston group must be replaced;
2. The motor is overheating. Because of this, all rubber connection elements of the engine cooling system, cylinder head gasket, valve cover, and rubber components of the piston group can be destroyed.

Features of draining antifreeze and replacing the pump pipe on a Priora

The coolant pipe on the Priora is connected through a hose to the thermostat. It regulates the circulation of antifreeze in a small or large circle, depending on its temperature. If a defect is detected on the pipe itself or at the junction with the pump and the unit, it must be dismantled. The procedure involves preliminary draining of antifreeze.

The work is performed in the following order:

• The engine protection is removed;
• The expansion tank cap opens;
• Carefully unscrew the “lamb” of the drain located at the bottom of the block;
• Antifreeze is poured into the prepared container.

Draining is performed on a cold engine. To completely drain the coolant, you need to turn the motor shaft using the starter.

The supply pipe is dismantled after unscrewing the 2 mounting bolts on the cooling pump and removing the thermostat hose. The new part and gasket are installed in the reverse order. After adding antifreeze, it is necessary to test run the engine and check for fluid leaks at the connections.

Replacing coolant on 2ZZ-GE

Antifreeze is a car coolant because its freezing point is lower than the freezing point of water. Antifreeze is designed to prevent damage to parts caused by the expansion of water when it freezes. Antifreeze not only has a lower freezing point, but when frozen, it forms a mushy mass, the formation of which does not damage engine parts, although it does not allow the engine to operate normally.

Drain the coolant. Note: To reduce the risk of burns, do not remove the reservoir cap while the engine and radiator are still hot, as liquid and steam may escape under pressure. Remove the radiator support cover. Remove the radiator cap. Fill with coolant. Tighten the radiator drain plug and pour coolant into the radiator until it begins to overflow. Volume: 6.7 l (7.1 us qts, 5.9 imp. qts). Advice:

Compress the radiator inlet and outlet hoses with force several times. If the coolant level has dropped, add coolant.

Tighten the radiator cap. Fill the reservoir with engine coolant until the “full” line is reached. Warm up the engine until the thermostat valve opens. Tip: While warming up, squeeze the radiator inlet and outlet hoses with force several times. Stop the engine and wait until the coolant temperature drops. Next, remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level. If the level has dropped, then perform the above procedures again. If the level does not drop, adjust the coolant level in the reservoir. Check for engine coolant leaks. Fill the radiator with coolant and attach the radiator cap tester. Pump the tester until the pressure reaches 118 kpa (1.2 kgf/cm2, 17.1 psi) and check for leaks.

Replacing the supply pipe on a VAZ 2110

The pipe, gaskets and hose for the radiator must be purchased from a trusted dealer. Cheap counterfeits cannot withstand the high temperature and pressure of the coolant.

To carry out the replacement procedure, you must:

1. Drain the antifreeze from the engine block (work on a “hot” engine is prohibited) into a previously prepared container.
2. Unscrew 2 bolts securing the pump and 2 from the engine block.
3. Remove the pipe from the engine compartment.

Before installing a new supply pipe, apply a thin layer of automotive sealant to the gaskets. Reassemble in reverse order. Fill with coolant and check for leaks. If you suspect the integrity of the rubber hose of the expansion tank, replace it.

Air lock formation

Replacing the pump supply pipe and draining the antifreeze associated with the work can lead to the formation of an air lock in the cooling system.

There are 2 ways to fix the problem:

1. With the engine warm, remove one of the 2 throttle body hoses for 5-10 seconds. A small amount of antifreeze may leak out, which must be added through the expansion tank.
2. The car is installed on a rise (overpass) so that the radiator is higher than the engine. The expansion tank cap is removed and the engine is started. After removing the plug, coolant is added.

Maintaining the cooling system in good condition ensures high-quality operation of the car engine. When replacing the supply pipe of the coolant pump on a car with high mileage, it is recommended to simultaneously replace the used antifreeze and flush the entire system.

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Source

Why do you need a pump in a car?

If we talk about the operation of a car engine, then we immediately touch upon the topic of its cooling. Indeed, without high-quality cooling, the engine will not be able to work for a long time and will definitely “boil”. Thanks to the circulation of coolant, it becomes possible to operate the engine at any time of the year under any external conditions.

The power component on the VAZ of the tenth family has a rather complex structure. During the working cycle, the pistons rub strongly against each other, which invariably leads to strong heating of the surfaces. The only way to prevent engine overheating is to constantly maintain the desired temperature in the friction zone through the circulation of coolant and. It is for this purpose that the VAZ design includes a cooling system.

The design and operating features of the VAZ 2110 engine cooling system are described in detail in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/dvigatel/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-dvigatelya.html

Coolant (antifreeze or antifreeze) is poured by the driver into the expansion tank of the car. From it, the liquid is transferred through pipes to the water pump, and from there it goes to the radiator and cylinder block. The water pump (or pump) is designed to pump antifreeze through the system while the engine is running. That is, the pump starts together with the engine and turns off after the driver turns off the car. Without a pump, the entire cooling system can be considered ineffective, since only the pump can create rapid circulation of liquid throughout all parts of the system.

The pump is designed to create the necessary pressure in the cooling system to move the liquid.

The device in a metal case ensures continuous circulation of antifreeze through the cooling system

Signs of pump failure

You do not need to have special knowledge to determine whether the pump is faulty. There are three signs by which diagnosis can be made:

1. Engine overheating. Even if, when driving in winter, the engine temperature remains above the operating mark of 90 degrees, this is a clear sign indicating a malfunction. To carry out diagnostics, you need to bring the car and warm it up to operating temperature. Then we turn on the stove and if cold air immediately starts flowing out of it, then there is a malfunction in the pump impeller.
2. Uneven timing belt wear. This happens due to wear of the bearings inside the pump, and since it guides the belt, its wear may be uneven. For example, there will be more on one side.
3. Pump leaking. When the mechanism has not been replaced for a long time, over time the pump will begin to leak due to severe wear of the oil seal. A few drops a day will not affect the correct operation, but if the antifreeze leaks out profusely, you need to urgently start replacing it.

The cooling of the car directly depends on this unit, and if you do not notice the breakdown in time, you can bring the engine to a major overhaul.

How to check the pump

Usually, a broken pump immediately reveals itself with a pungent smell of antifreeze in the cabin. This indicates that the seal is broken and the coolant is leaking out. In advanced cases, antifreeze can form a puddle, which indicates complete wear.

In addition to direct signs of malfunction, there are also indirect ones:

1. Motor overheating. This is especially noticeable in winter, when in principle it should not overheat. You can check it visually: warm up the car and turn on the heater. If cold air comes out, it means the pump is leaking and you need to check the water pump.
2. Timing belt wear. The pump has a guide bearing that holds the belt. Its wear leads to misalignment, which tilts the belt slightly and grinds the teeth unevenly.

Please note that replacing the VAZ 2114 and 2115 pump with 8 valves is required every 70,000-100,000 km - this resource was provided by the manufacturer.

Required tools and parts

When starting to replace the pump on a VAZ 2114, we need to prepare a set of tools:

• Wrenches for 10, 17 and 19;
• Socket head 10;
• Driver and extension for it;
• A flat-head screwdriver with a thin blade.

The set of spare parts depends on the severity of the breakdown. When the malfunction is detected in the early stages and there are no signs of severe uneven wear on the timing belt, then you can get by with replacing only the pump. But if coolant has flooded the belt and rollers, or severe wear on the belt is noticed, the entire assembly must be serviced. A rupture of an element during engine operation can lead to a collision of valves and pistons, which will entail a major overhaul of the engine. Therefore, it is better to replace all components.

Replacing the pump

Having asked the question “how to replace the pump on a VAZ 2114 with your own hands?” Don't despair that this process is too complicated. It is enough to work on the following points:

1. We drive the car into a pit or into a spacious garage, where it will be possible to jack up the right side of the car. Before disassembling, it is recommended to let the engine cool down so as not to get burned during operation.
2. Remove the valve from the radiator, which is located on the left side, and drain the coolant.
3. Under the ignition module there is a bolt for draining antifreeze from the engine. We unscrew it and also drain it.
4. Now you can remove the protective cover of the timing mechanism. It is held on by three 10mm bolts.
5. We tear off the toothed pulley bolt using a 17mm wrench. Before doing this, you need to align the entire mechanism according to the marks.
6. Using the same key, unscrew the bolt securing the tension roller and remove it.
7. Remove the belt from the upper pulley and pump, moving it towards the radiator.
8. Unscrew the toothed gear completely and also remove it. Do this carefully so as not to lose the key!
9. Now we need a wrench with a 10mm head. Unscrew the rear belt cover.
10. To remove the water pump, we need to pry it with a screwdriver and pull it out of the groove.
11. We clean the cylinder block and the landing site from the remains of the old gasket. If this is not done, the pump will not sit level and will leak.
12. We lubricate the gasket with sealant on both sides and install it in the pump seat.
13. We insert the new pump so that the inscription on it is on top.

After waiting a bit for the sealant to set, you can begin assembly in the reverse order. It is better to start the engine for the first time after 2-3 hours. During this time, the sealant will definitely harden and will fully perform its functions.

Signs of a pump malfunction

Thanks to the rotation of the pump driven by the timing belt, the impeller circulates a special fluid (antifreeze, antifreeze) through the small and large circuits of the cooling system. A damaged pump can cause the engine to overheat or cause the timing belt to break. To avoid an emergency on the road, you should do preventive repairs on time. On a VAZ 2110 with an 8-valve engine, the omen of replacing the pump can be recognized by the symptoms described below.

Noise from the timing belt cover

When the engine is running, a shuffling rotating sound is produced from the side of the timing belt protective cover. This is an indication that the pump bearings are sufficiently worn. According to the maintenance regulations, the pump should be changed every second timing belt replacement. The recommendation should not be neglected, since the rolling shaft bearings operate under load and wear out relatively quickly. Sometimes antifreeze or antifreeze gets into the bearing race due to a leaky seal. As a result, the lubricant is washed out and wear of rubbing parts accelerates.

Coolant leak from under the pump

Hermetic seals: the oil seal and rubber cuffs, as well as the bearings, have a limited service life. Typically, seals leak after bearings wear out, as there is play in the shaft. In addition to this, the constant cycle of heating and cooling of the engine gradually destroys the material of rubber products. As a result, small puddles of coolant appear under the engine compartment of the VAZ 2110 on the pump side.

Misalignment of drive shaft pulleys

A defective pump can result in noisy engine operation and frequent timing belt breaks. According to the performance characteristics, skewed rotation of the pulleys does not provide the vehicle with a long service life. The belt cannot withstand additional loads and breaks after a mileage of up to 1000 km. As a result, you will have to replace the defective pump, otherwise on such a VAZ 2110, an unscheduled replacement of the timing belt will become a regular procedure.

Motor overheating

The pump impeller may be partially destroyed. The lack of blades leads to a decrease in coolant circulation. As a result, the engine does not receive proper cooling from the small circuit and the temperature rises, even to the point of boiling. Overheating, in turn, has a detrimental effect on the engine.

Among the most common consequences, the most difficult to eliminate should be listed:

• can “drive” the cylinder head;
• the cylinder head gasket burns out;
• piston rings are destroyed;
• the motor risks jamming;
• The crankshaft bearings fail.

For reference! Frequent use of a special sealant to eliminate coolant leaks reduces the service life of the water pump. The foreign mixture tends to stick to the impeller, forming a solid clot and clogging the channels of the cooling jacket.

Which pump to choose?

Before you change the pump on a VAZ 2114 with your own hands, you need to start looking for a new spare part. It's better to opt for the original. Most car enthusiasts advise installing it, since the concept of price and quality of the product is superior to its competitors.

The part can be found by article number: 21114-1307010-82 . When purchasing, look carefully to see if it is printed on the box, since there are Chinese analogues on the market made to resemble the original. The cost of a high-quality element is about 1,200 rubles, and analogues of poor quality are much cheaper.

Another brand that can be recommended for purchase is Marel . The company produces spare parts not only for domestic cars, but also for foreign cars. At the same time, it has positive reviews from many car owners. The price of the part is about 1300 rubles . You can also focus on one of the most reliable but expensive brands - Valeo . The mechanism runs 50% more than domestic ones, but has prices of about 3,000 rubles . Another disadvantage will be the large number of Chinese fakes.

Choosing a pump for your car

So, you have decided to replace the pump. Now you need to go to the auto store and buy the required element. However, sellers offer a huge assortment of different water pumps for the VAZ 2110/2112 - which pump to choose so as not to go wrong with the price and quality?

The price of a pump for an 8-valve VAZ 2110/2112 engine is from 800 rubles, for a 16-valve engine - from 1 thousand rubles. However, regardless of the cost and brightness of the packaging, when purchasing, you must pay attention to the following details:

• manufacturer (take products only from companies that you know well);
• the pump has its own catalog number (for example, the standard VAZ pump in all catalogs in car stores and on Internet sites is numbered 21081307010);
• the pump is sold in clean, uncreased packaging;
• The kit includes a gasket;
• A factory quality guarantee is provided with the pump.

Car enthusiasts prefer a pump produced by TZA. A water pump from a domestic manufacturer is easy to install, lasts a long time and is inexpensive. However, there is a risk of purchasing a defective product.

The Russian-made product is characterized by affordable cost and high quality work