VAZ cylinder block. Dimensions of the cylinder block VAZ 2106 2103, etc.

Features of the design of the connecting rod and piston group of the 2101 engine

The main dimensions of the piston, connecting rod, piston pin and piston rings.

Piston

The piston is made of aluminum alloy and coated with a layer of tin to improve run-in. The piston skirt is oval in cross section and conical in height. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the piston diameter only in a plane perpendicular to the piston pin and at a distance of 52.4 mm from the piston bottom.

The hole for the piston pin is shifted from the axis of symmetry by 2 mm to the right side of the engine. Therefore, for proper installation of the piston into the cylinder, there is a “P” mark near the hole for the piston pin, which should be facing towards the front of the engine.

Since 1986, repair size pistons for all engine models have been manufactured with an outer diameter increased by 0.4 and 0.8 mm. Until 1986, pistons of the following repair sizes were produced: for engines 2101 - with an increase of 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6 mm; for 21011 - with an increase of 0.4 and 0.7 mm.

Piston rings

The piston rings are made of cast iron. The outer surface of the upper compression ring is chrome plated and has a barrel shape. The lower compression ring is of the scraper type (with a groove along the outer surface), phosphated. The oil scraper ring has slots for oil removed from the cylinder and an internal coil spring (expander).

Piston pin

The piston pin is steel, tubular in cross-section, pressed into the upper head of the connecting rod and rotates freely in the piston bosses.

connecting rod

The connecting rod is steel, forged, with a split lower head in which the connecting rod bearing shells are installed. The connecting rod is processed together with the cover, so during assembly the numbers on the connecting rod and the cover must be the same.

Passenger cars are equipped with different types of engines; power units may differ in volume, power, and design.

If oil consumption in an engine increases, the most common reason for this is worn or broken piston rings; replacing them is quite labor-intensive work, and also requires certain plumbing skills.

Replacing piston rings

On VAZ cars, as well as on all other models of passenger cars, it is advisable to change only the piston rings only if:

• there is no exhaust in the cylinders;
• there are no signs of damage to their inner surface.

If the liners are significantly worn, they need to be bored, and if the last size was already used before, the cylinder block needs to be relined. You can replace the PC on any VAZ engine without removing the internal combustion engine; this will require removing the cylinder head and oil sump. PCs are replaced if the gap at the joints does not exceed 1 mm.

For example, let's consider replacing piston rings on a VAZ-2114 car with an 8-valve internal combustion engine; such work must be carried out on a pit or a car lift:

• turn off the ignition, put the gearbox in neutral, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery;
• drain the antifreeze, remove the air filter housing along with the pipe (injector corrugation);
• remove the valve cover, camshaft, loosen the timing belt and move it to the side;
• disconnect the H/V wires and cooling system pipes from the cylinder head, unscrew the head bolts;
• unscrew the nuts of the exhaust pipe of the muffler;
• We completely free the cylinder head from all fasteners that prevent it from being removed, and we remove the cylinder head;
• if there is protection under the engine, remove it;
• place a container under the engine sump, unscrew the plug on the crankcase, drain the oil;
• remove the lower hatch of the gearbox housing (three bolts);
• Using a 10 mm wrench or a socket wrench, unscrew all the oil pan bolts;
• dismantle the pan, remove the oil receiver;
• Unscrew the connecting rod nuts, remove the lower connecting rod caps, and carefully knock the pistons and connecting rods upward. Pistons should be knocked out through a soft metal drift or through a wooden block. First, you need to carefully knock out the connecting rod bolt without damaging the threads on it, then place the drift on the end of the connecting rod - in no case should you hit the bearings or the seat underneath them;
• It is recommended to remove the connecting rods one at a time, and immediately attach the caps to them; the caps should not be confused with each other, they are placed back strictly in their places, and a lock to the lock is required;
• remove the PC from the pistons, use a piece of the old ring to clean the piston grooves to bare metal. Be sure to check the cleanliness of the groove all around; there should be no coke left in it;
• We install new rings in the grooves, start with the lower MPC, then install the middle compression PK, and lastly the upper one. For installation, you can use a special device, but it is still more convenient to install the rings by hand. If the MPCs are cast iron, they cannot be bent along their axis, they can only be carefully moved apart. Compression rings also need to be bent carefully, to a minimum;
• we install the piston in place using a special mandrel, hammer it in with a wooden hammer handle or a brass or bronze drift;
• We install one piston-rod at a time, and immediately attach a connecting rod cap to each one. The connecting rod nuts should be tightened with a torque wrench, force - from 4.5 to 5.5 kg;
• then we put everything in place - the oil receiver, the engine sump, the cylinder head. We fill the radiator with antifreeze, oil into the crankcase, and start the engine to check. After replacing the PC, the internal combustion engine may initially smoke and consume oil - the engine needs to be run in for approximately 2 thousand km. It happens that despite the seemingly normal condition of the liners, the internal combustion engine continues to smoke even after replacing the rings after break-in. In this case, you will have to bore the cylinders and install a repair piston group.

Maintenance - regulations

A typical internal combustion engine device ensures that the replacement of consumables and maintenance operations are standard for the AvtoVAZ engine family, so the 21011 engine has the following maintenance regulations:

Consumables and spare parts for the engine are not in short supply, despite its discontinuation in 2006.

Service manual 21011

Pistons and connecting rods.VAZ-— DRIVE2

Pressing out the piston pin.

Selection of piston to cylinder.

The calculated gap between the piston and cylinder (for new parts) is 0.025-0.045 mm. It is determined by measuring the parts and is ensured by installing pistons of the same class as the cylinders. The maximum permissible gap (if parts are worn) is 0.15 mm. If a used engine has a gap exceeding 0.15 mm, then it is necessary to reselect the pistons so that the gap is as close as possible to the calculated one. Spare parts include pistons of classes A, C, E. This is enough to select a piston for any cylinder during engine repair, since pistons and cylinders are divided into classes with a slight overlap of sizes. For example, a class C piston may be suitable for class B and D cylinders. A class C piston may also be suitable for worn class A and B cylinders.

Disassembly.

Remove the piston rings. Place the piston in the support with a cylindrical recess and press out the pin using mandrel A.60308 (Fig. 2-32). If some parts of the connecting rod and piston group are not damaged and have little wear, they can be used again. Therefore, when disassembling, mark them in order to later assemble a group with the same parts and install them in the same cylinder. Assembly. Before assembly, fit the pin to the piston. For proper pairing, it is necessary that the piston pin, lubricated with engine oil, enters the piston hole by simply pressing it by hand (Fig. 2-33) and does not fall out if the piston is held as shown in Fig. 2-34. Replace the finger that falls out with another one of the next category. If the third category pin falls out of the piston hole, replace the piston and repeat the selection of the pin.

Since the pin is inserted into the upper head of the connecting rod with interference, it is necessary to heat the connecting rod to expand its head. To do this, place the connecting rods for 15 minutes in an electric oven heated to 240°C. Prepare the finger for assembly in advance by placing it on the shaft of device A.60325 with spacer ring 5 installed. The ring should have a thickness of 4 mm, an outer diameter of 22 mm and an inner diameter of 15 mm. At the end of the device, a guide 3 is installed, secured with a screw 4. Tighten the screw loosely so that jamming does not occur when the pin expands from contact with the heated connecting rod. To properly connect the pin to the connecting rod, press in the pin as soon as possible, since the connecting rod cools quickly and after cooling it will be impossible to change the position of the pin. The piston and connecting rod must be assembled so that the arrow on the piston bottom is directed towards the oil outlet hole (if equipped) on the lower end of the connecting rod (see Fig. 2-31). Quickly clamp the connecting rod removed from the oven in a vice. When putting the piston on the connecting rod, make sure that the hole for the pin coincides with the hole in the upper head of the connecting rod. Push the piston pin attached to the device into the piston hole and the upper head of the connecting rod (Fig. 2-36) until the shoulder of the device stops in the piston. During this operation, the piston must be pressed by the boss against the upper head of the connecting rod in the direction of pressing the pin (shown by the arrow in Fig. 2-36). Then the finger will take the correct position. After the connecting rod has cooled, lubricate the pin with engine oil through the holes in the piston bosses. Lubricate the piston grooves, piston rings and

VAZ 2103 pistons sizes by groups

VAZ cylinder block dimensions: 2103, 2106, 21213, 21214, 2123, 2130.
Applicability - on engines: VAZ-2103, 21043, 21053, 21061, 2107.

What size piston rings for VAZ 2103:

How much does the VAZ 2106 engine block weigh? — Weight — 39,200 kg.

Applicability - on engines: VAZ 2106, 21067, 21074, 2121 Niva.

Applicability - on engines: VAZ 21213, 21073, 21214.

Applicability - on engines: VAZ 21214, 21073, 21213.

Applicability - on engines: VAZ 2123.

Applicability - on engines: VAZ 2130.

All of the above blocks are used on engines that belong to the line of “classical” design engines.

All these cylinder blocks share the same dimensions:

— the distance between the axes of adjacent cylinders, which is 95.00 mm;

— diameter of the bed for the crankshaft supports.

The table shows the main dimensions of VAZ cylinder blocks. (block repair dimensions)

* - discontinued by JSC AVTOVAZ

DC

— Cylinder diameter of the VAZ block;

H

— The distance between the upper plane of the block and the axis of the crankshaft (height of the VAZ block);

Lc

— Distance between the axes of adjacent cylinders of the block (inter-cylinder distance);

d

— The diameter of the boring of the crankshaft supports (for the main bearings).

Based on the results of final processing of the surface of the cylinders, depending on the diameter dimensions, a cylinder size class is assigned. There are five size groups defined for cylinders, which are designated by letters: A, B, C, D, E. Cylinder class

applied to the surface of the block, opposite each cylinder. For each nominal cylinder diameter, its own size classes are adopted.

For a cylinder with a certain class, a piston of the corresponding class is selected.

Control of the diameter and wear of the surface of the cylinders is carried out using a device - a bore gauge.

Measurements are taken at the level of several belts, in mutually perpendicular directions. In the upper part of the cylinder, at a distance of no more than 5 mm from the upper plane of the block, there is an area where there is no wear and the size corresponds to the nominal diameter of the cylinder. If in one of the other control sections of the cylinder, size deviations exceeding 0.15 mm from the nominal are detected, then it is necessary to bore the cylinders of the block, followed by honing them to the nearest repair size. Depending on the operating conditions of the engine and compliance with technical requirements, the need for cylinder boring may arise after 120 - 250 thousand km. vehicle mileage.

To increase the service life of the blocks, two repair sizes have been determined for each of the nominal cylinder diameters. Each repair size

differs from the previous size by 0.4 mm. The table shows the repair dimensions of the block cylinders, their intermediate dimensions for boring and honing.

Repair sizes of pistons of the corresponding class are selected for repair sizes of cylinders. As a result, a gap of 0.05-0.07 mm between the cylinder and the piston is achieved.

Source of the article: https://www.motors-vaz.ru/blok_vaz03_23r.html

VAZ 2101 piston pin size

The piston pin is capable of providing a hinged connection between the upper head of the connecting rod and the piston itself. When the engine is running, significant variable forces act on the piston pin. Consequently, the product itself and the hole for it are mated with a minimum gap, which ensures lubrication. In VAZ engines, 2 types of articulated joints are implemented according to the “piston-pin-connecting rod” scheme. So in models 2101, 21011, 2105, 2108, 21083, the pin is installed in the upper head of the connecting rod with a fairly tight fit that will prevent any rotation. If the hole is made with clearance in mind, free rotation of the product will be ensured.

Engine piston rings

In an internal combustion engine (ICE), piston rings (PR) serve as a seal between the cylinder walls (liners) and the piston, due to which compression is created in the cylinders. If you forget to put the PC into the engine during assembly, the engine will not start, since the necessary compression of the working air-fuel mixture will not be ensured.

In passenger cars, three rings are standardly installed on each piston - two compression rings and one oil scraper ring, and oil scraper rings can be stacked, that is, consist of several elements. Compression piston rings (CPRs) are used to create compression in the cylinders and are always made of high-strength cast iron with various additives. The upper CPC has the greatest strength, since it operates in the most severe temperature conditions and experiences maximum loads.

Engine oil piston rings (OPRs) are needed to drain oil from the cylinder walls; if the rings do not perform their function, the engine will consume oil. MPKs can be either cast iron or steel, and cast iron PCs are almost always made in one piece, but steel oil scraper rings can only be assembled (composite). Steel MPC for one cylinder consists of:

• two spring steel rings;
• axial expander;
• radial expander.

VAZ 2103 piston sizes table

Useful information about piston rings

How not to make a mistake when choosing piston rings for VAZ cars?

The auto parts market today has everything - from the smallest part to the engine and body. It would seem that the problem, which was very acute ten to fifteen years ago, has finally been solved. But it was not there. It is not easy to select high-quality parts for replacement, especially for connecting rod and main bearing shells, elements of the cylinder-piston group - pistons, rings. It is the quality and reliability of these parts that dramatically affect the life of the engine after “treatment”.

A little history

The very first piston rings for VAZ were manufactured at a specialized plant in Michurinsk, but outdated technologies of the 50s did not meet VAZ requirements for product quality. The rejection of Michurin rings sometimes reached 75-80%, so the management of VAZ decided to organize this production in its own “house”. For this purpose, an agreement was concluded between VAZ and the Japanese company, which supplied equipment for the production of piston rings to Togliatti, which made it possible to reduce the number of defects to 25%. It would seem that this figure is large, but compared to other imported equipment, the quality advantage of Japanese equipment was undeniable.

Currently, VAZ produces piston rings of three nominal sizes (76, 79, 82 mm), each of which has two repair ones (0.4 and 0.8 mm). The material for the manufacture of rings is special high-strength or gray cast iron of the RIK-40 and RIK-20 brands, which has high anti-wear properties that are superior in quality to the materials of rings from other factories (in Michurinsk, Stavropol). Quality control is carried out after each technological transition throughout the entire production process.

Features of oil scraper rings

For the most part, oil scraper rings are produced in two types - chrome-plated and non-chrome-plated, but not so long ago steel rings with a spring element appeared, intended only for installation during engine repairs. Steel oil scraper rings are manufactured in nominal sizes only.

Chrome-plated rings have a cross-section with two symmetrical protrusions and are intended for installation in VAZ-2106, 2108, 21083, 2121, 1111 engines. And they appeared after the birth of VAZ engines for “eights” and “nines”. These engines have a higher compression ratio and more loaded operating conditions, so during operation, conventional oil scraper rings wore out much faster than the chrome-plated upper compression ring. To equalize their mileage, they began to coat the oil scraper rings of the above-mentioned engines with chrome, which made it possible to extend the life of the rings almost twice.

As for the non-chrome rings, their protrusions are asymmetrical, and they are installed on VAZ-2101, 21011, 2103, 2105 and 2106 engines for AZLK 2141. This is perhaps the only detail that allows you to distinguish a chrome ring from a regular one, since they are colored almost the same. Be careful not to “mistakenly” sell you “Michurin” rings that have “knocked” protrusions.

Expansion springs also have their own distinctive features: variable winding pitch, polished surface along the outer diameter and ends. The possibility of counterfeiting is unlikely. Such distinctive features can only be obtained by having special expensive equipment, which is currently only available at VAZ.

But there are cases when they try to sell rings that have already completed their “life journey”, which are thoroughly cleaned and washed beforehand. This is not difficult to detect, you just have to look at the profile and height of the protrusions. As a rule, they are either absent or appear barely noticeable. And it is almost impossible to completely clean the spring ring from oil and dirt.

Steel oil scraper rings have become widespread abroad. Their long service life, lower weight and cost, reliability and quality of work performed indicate the need for their implementation on all VAZ models. However, due to the lack of the required amount of material for their mass production (stainless steel for the spring element and carbon tape for the rings), their use is still limited and applies only to repair kits. The service life of steel rings is 150-200 thousand km, which undoubtedly confirms their advantage over cast iron ones.

The most important distinguishing feature of VAZ steel oil scraper rings is the chrome coating of the rings themselves and the expansion springs; Michurin and others do not have it. On the surface of the rings, chrome creates a specific matte tint, noticeable only if you look closely.

Compression rings

Compression rings, like oil scraper rings, have their own profile. The upper compression ring is the most loaded, it is made of high-strength gray cast iron, and the surface along the outer diameter is chrome-plated. The lower compression ring is less loaded, so it is not chrome-plated, and in order for it to partially perform the oil scraper function, the lower part is made in the form of a wedge to remove residual oil.

Like oil scraper rings, VAZ compression rings also have their own distinctive features. These rings have a chamfer on one side (and sometimes on both sides) along the outer diameter; rings of other origins do not have this chamfer. At first glance it is difficult to notice, but it can be determined by touch (control similar to checking a dollar).

Dimensions and markings of piston rings VAZ 2109 – 2115

I will now give you the main dimensions of the connecting rod and piston group below in the figure.

The piston is cast aluminum. According to the outer diameter, the pistons are divided into five classes (A, B, C, D, E) every 0.01 mm. The outer surface of the piston has a complex shape. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the piston diameter only in a plane perpendicular to the piston pin, at a distance of 55 mm from the piston bottom.

Main dimensions of the connecting rod VAZ 2109 – 2115

Based on the diameter of the hole for the piston pin, pistons are divided into three classes (1, 2, 3) every 0.004 mm.

The classes of piston diameters and holes for the piston pin are stamped on the bottom of the piston (Fig. 4).

The piston is cast aluminum. According to the outer diameter, the pistons are divided into five classes (A, B, C, D, E) every 0.01 mm. The outer surface of the piston has a complex shape. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the piston diameter only in a plane perpendicular to the piston pin, at a distance of 55 mm from the piston bottom.

Dimensions of piston rings VAZ 2109 – 2115

Based on the diameter of the hole for the piston pin, pistons are divided into three classes (1, 2, 3) every 0.004 mm.

The classes of piston diameters and piston pin holes are stamped on the piston crown.

Piston markings VAZ 2109 – 2115

Selection of spare parts

Before going to the store, you need to roll the car out to a bright place or use a flashlight for work. You need to open the engine compartment cover (hood), approach the car from the left front fender and carefully inspect the left vertical wall of the cylinder block. It is there, in the very center, that the capital Latin letter should be located, indicating the class of the motor.

If the letter is not visible, it means the engine is dirty. You need to clean the surface of the power unit from dirt using a sandblaster and look again. If after this the letter does not appear, it means that it was “eaten” by corrosion. In this case, before going to the auto store, you need to purchase a bore gauge and use this tool to measure the actual dimensions of each cylinder. It happens that some craftsmen do not bore all the cylinders during a major overhaul.

Class A engines that have not been overhauled or bored have cylinders with a diameter of 79 to 79.01 mm, class B - from 79.01 to 79.02, class C - from 79.02 to 79.03, class D - from 79 .03 to 79.04, class E - from 79.04 to 79.05 mm. The original pistons for these blocks have diameters of 78.93, 78.94, 78.95, 78.96 and 78.97 mm, respectively. These are approximate figures, since in reality there is a tolerance of 9 thousandths of a millimeter.

Table of dimensions and tolerances of VAZ classic engine parts

Spare parts stores supply cast pistons of classes A, C and D, intended for unbored engines. Forged pistons for the VAZ 2106 are made to order and come in any size. The main repair dimensions of the VAZ 2106 engine cylinders are 79.4 (first bore) and 79.8 mm (second bore). Piston diameters for the first boring depending on the class (in millimeters):

• 2.8 Nominal and repair dimensions of parts and limits of permissible wear

1. A - 79.34.
2. B - 79.35.
3. C - 79.36.
4. D - 79.37.
5. E - 79.38.

Piston diameters for the second boring:

1. A - 79.74.
2. B - 79.75.
3. C - 79.76.
4. D - 79.77.
5. E - 79.78.

It should be noted that pistons are also divided into 3 categories based on the diameter of the piston pin hole, so new pistons must be purchased complete with pins. It is very difficult for a non-professional to distinguish a bored block from an unbored one, so if you are doing major engine repairs yourself, you must definitely purchase a bore gauge, and if this is not possible, then at least take old parts with you and compare them with store-bought parts.

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Which rings are better

The question of which piston rings are best to purchase for replacement haunts many car owners. With the variety available, it is not easy to make a choice

You can answer this: if the purpose of the replacement is to restore the normal performance of the engine, the standard ones are quite sufficient, but if the owner wants to improve the performance of the engine, it is better to pay attention to more “sophisticated” products, for example, chrome-plated or molybdenum

A major overhaul or tuning of an engine usually involves the need to completely disassemble the internal combustion engine to replace the elements of the CPG and crankshaft. During the work, in some cases it is necessary to bore the cylinder block, then the cylinders are honed. Next, an accurate selection of pistons according to the size of the liners is required, at the same time the piston rings, piston pins and connecting rods are changed, the crankshaft is replaced or repaired, etc.

Replacing piston rings and the pistons themselves on a gasoline or diesel engine requires maximum sealing of the slot gaps. In this article we will talk about how to correctly select pistons, and then choose the right sized piston rings for them.

Read in this article

Technical characteristics of VAZ engines

The technical characteristics of VAZ Classic engines are quite simple. During the production of the first engine, the engines were improved and the VAZ 2106 and 2107 engines are considered to be the best representatives.

Before we begin describing maintenance and repair, it is worth understanding which VAZ engines were installed on the “Classic”:

Lada 2101 "Kopeyka"

We can say that this is the most legendary car produced by AvtoVAZ. To this day, this vehicle and power unit can be found throughout the CIS and beyond.

VAZ 2101

VAZ 21011

All power units were equipped with a 4-speed gearbox. Also, the VAZ 2101 engine was installed on the Lada 2102. The successor to the power unit was the engine marked 2103.

VAZ 2103

Vehicles marked LADA 2103 were equipped with engines 2101, 21011 and the new VAZ 2103 engine.

Like previous power units, the 2103 had a 4-speed gearbox. Cooling was liquid, forced, with a constantly running cooling fan.

VAZ 2104

The “Four” was produced for quite a long time, so its board received all possible engines and their modifications. Thus, VAZ engines of the following markings were mounted on the 2104: 2103, 2105, 21067, 21073 and 341. Let’s look at the characteristics in more detail:

Motor VAZ 2105

VAZ 21067

VAZ 21073

VAZ 341

Diesel version for a limited number of vehicles.

VAZ 2105

Various power units were installed on the VAZ 2105 during production. Let's look at what VAZ engines the car labeled 2105 had:

• VAZ-2101 - 1.2 l, carburetor, 64 l. With.
• VAZ-2105 - 1.3 l, carburetor, 69 l. With.
• VAZ-2103 - 1.45 l, carburetor, 77 l. With.
• VAZ-2104 - 1.5 l, center. injection, 72 l. With.
• VAZ-21067 - 1.6 l, distribution. injection, 80 l. With.
• VAZ(BTM)-341 - 1.52 l, diesel, 50 l. With.
• VAZ-4132 - RPD, 1.654 l, 140 l. With.

VAZ 2106

The “Six”, in addition to the already familiar engines 2101 and 21011, received an improved power unit labeled 2106. This engine is considered one of the best VAZ carburetor internal combustion engines developed by the manufacturer. Let's look at the technical characteristics of the VAZ 2106:

VAZ 2107

This vehicle was produced at the AvtoVAZ plant for the longest time, for 30 years, after which it was discontinued because it was morally and technically outdated. If this car had been produced to this day, there would have been a very high demand for it, since the low price and simplicity of the design won the trust of motorists.

Both carburetor and injection engines were installed on the VAZ 2107 car. The first ones were marked 2103, 2105 and 2106. As for the injector, the VAZ engine was marked 21071 and 21073.

Shortened connecting rods

I’ll explain why shortened connecting rods are needed, since there are idiots who are ready to install them on any engine, believing that the engine’s power will immediately increase.

VAZ engines are divided by model and by piston stroke, for example, in the 2101 and 21011 engines the piston stroke is ten millimeters shorter than on the 2103 and 2106 engines. Therefore, if you want to make the 2101 engine equal in power to the 2103 engine, and since in these engines the diameter The piston is 76mm, which means you can make an engine from the 01 engine into an engine with the power of 03. To do this, for the 01 engine they buy a crankshaft from the 03 engine, and so that the pistons do not extend 10mm higher than the cylinder, shortened connecting rods are installed. But the pistons also have to be modified by grinding down the metal skirts below the piston pin so that it does not rest against the plumb line of the crankshaft. That’s just why shortened connecting rods are needed, and the engines turn out to be even faster than 03. But don’t think about buying a chain for an 03 engine, but install a chain for an 01 engine, since you have not increased the height of the engine block, but only increased the piston stroke.

An incident from life, a young guy drove up to me in a VAZ 2107 with a 2106 engine and asked if I recently had the engine done by a motor mechanic, but after repairs, the car doesn’t start well, it barely pulls, it consumes gasoline, but does not consume oil. I asked him what they did to the engine, he said they bored out the crankshaft (that’s good), bored out the block for new repair pistons (also good), and the mechanic also advised me to buy shortened connecting rods, he said that it would be very good. I laughed for about five minutes and told him, but now you can drive even on 66 gasoline, which has not been produced for a long time, there will never be detonation. Of course, the boy was not laughing, but I wasn’t laughing at him, but at the stupid master.

I explained to him that now his pistons do not reach the top of the cylinder by 10mm, and thus the engine has become very derated. Go to the mechanic who assembled the engine, let him remake the engine at his own expense and install normal connecting rods.

Tuning

Recently, tuning connecting rods have appeared; their advantage over conventional connecting rods is that they are lighter. Tuning connecting rods are made from light but strong metal alloys, and since the weight of the connecting rods plays a big role for the engine, the lighter the connecting rods, the faster the engine. For example, take a heavy stone and quickly lift it up and down, and then a light one, and you will understand that it is faster to raise and lower a light stone than a heavy one, and for the engine it is easier for the crankshaft to raise and lower light connecting rods.

Engines are boosted in different ways, they are equipped with turbocharging, special gas installations, etc. But this leads to overloading of engine parts, and such engines usually quickly fail. And if you put lightweight connecting rods in the engine, then, on the contrary, its resource increases, plus agility and power are added. For me, it’s much more interesting to drive a standard engine, but it’s easy to overtake new cars of the same class, while other drivers think that the car has a more powerful engine.

Tuning connecting rods can be easily bought online, but it’s true that they are more expensive than standard ones, but if you want to make your engine more playful, install tuning connecting rods, or lighten the standard ones by removing excess metal and adjusting them by weight, but don’t overdo it.

Is it possible to replace one connecting rod?

During my practice, I have seen many different engines, and those in which one connecting rod was replaced and did not match the weight of the other connecting rods. I also had to change one connecting rod on the engine if the bearings had turned, but I made sure to adjust the connecting rods to the same weight.

You can balance the connecting rods yourself at home.

Actually, according to normal, the difference in connecting rods should be on average no more than 5 grams, but maybe more, it all depends on the brand of engine.

I came across engines in which the difference in the weight of the connecting rods was more than 20 grams in VAZs and others, these engines were repaired before me and the connecting rods were installed without selecting the weight. In principle, such engines with very different connecting rods work, but the engine may chatter slightly at idle. And of course, a large difference in the weight of the connecting rod affects the acceleration of the car, and the engine is dumber than the one in which the connecting rods are weight-balanced.

Therefore, you can replace one connecting rod, nothing terrible will happen, but do not expect good dynamics from the engine when driving.

Review of popular models of piston rings VAZ 2109 – 2115

There are many companies that produce piston rings, as well as many fakes, and there is simply not enough time to look through them all. Therefore, let's look at those manufacturers of piston rings that differ from others in normal quality and price. The first thing I want to recommend is SM piston rings.

Piston rings from SM

And

Piston rings from Mahle.

These companies produce piston rings for VAZ cars of various diameters and are perfect for us. They are most likely produced in China, because the original ones will cost much more. But this does not mean that everything is so bad, their quality is excellent. I still recommend rings from “SM”, because their price is much lower than that of “Mahle”, and the quality is the same, so why pay more and overpay for the brand.

The upper compression ring from these manufacturers is chrome-plated steel, but from the “SM” company it is copper-plated, this is clearly visible in the top photographs. The second compression ring is black and made of cast iron, but the ring from Mahle has a darker color. On the picture

The lower oil scraper rings are metal typesetting. The graphics on the left are “SM”, and on the right “Mahle”.

I recommend using metal oil scraper rings, because, unlike box-type rings, they fit perfectly in the cylinder, are resistant to overheating (they do not lose their spring properties) and their main advantage is that they work as two rings independent of each other. The rings are box-type, very afraid of overheating. When they overheat, they lose their spring properties and do their job poorly

And one more serious disadvantage: they require very careful running-in. At the slightest deviation from the running-in conditions, the working edges of the ring may break off in some places and will allow oil to pass through

Of course, there are other manufacturers of piston rings, but as usual they are complete fakes and sometimes it’s not possible to choose quality ones

How to balance connecting rods

And you can easily balance the connecting rods yourself at home. But here the difficulty arises in correctly balancing the connecting rod itself. Because in addition to the fact that the connecting rods must be of the same total mass, the upper part of the connecting rod and the lower part of the connecting rod must also be the same in weight. There are special scales for this at the factory, but there are no such scales at home.

I came up with a way to balance connecting rods at home using simple scales, I use simple medical scales, which I also use to weigh gunpowder when loading hunting cartridges. What's good about these scales is that they provide weighing accuracy down to the milligram.

The process of balancing connecting rods is as follows.

First, weigh all the connecting rods without connecting rod cushions and find the lightest connecting rod, you will have it as a template to which you will begin to adjust the weight of the remaining connecting rods. Just be sure to mark the connecting rods with the cushions so as not to confuse them; each cushion must return to its own connecting rod.

Next, also find the lightest pillow; this will also be a pillow template to which you will adjust the weight of the rest of the pillows.

Photo. Connecting rods before balancing. Connecting rods VAZ 08

The question arises of where exactly to grind off the metal on the connecting rods and pads.

On pillows everything is simple, the metal is ground or drilled from the very bottom of the pillow.

Photo. Connecting rod cushions before balancing. Connecting rods VAZ 08

But with connecting rods, everything is not always simple, although the metal from the very top of the connecting rod is also ground off normally, but sometimes you put the connecting rod to the connecting rod, and the heavier connecting rod at the top is ground off less than the lighter one. This means that if the top of a heavier connecting rod is visually smaller than a lighter one, grinding down the top will make it even lighter.

Photo. Balanced connecting rods. The arrow shows where the metal was ground off

Therefore, pay attention to where there is visually more metal and grind off the metal.

Photo. Balanced connecting rod pads. The arrow shows where the metal was ground off

Balanced connecting rods thus provide excellent engine dynamics, resulting in more power and more economical gas mileage.

Photo. Balanced cranks with cushions.

How to understand when it's time to change piston rings

When the car's oil consumption increased significantly, compression in the cylinders dropped. Before quickly rushing to the garage, you need to measure the compression, first on dry cylinders and then fill the cap from a bottle of oil and measure again and compare the results. If dry cylinder performance is lower, the piston rings must be replaced.

If not, then the rings have nothing to do with it, and you should pay attention to the caps and valves. Also, when using low-grade oil, the piston rings may become stuck.

This phenomenon usually occurs in cars whose engines have not been used for a long time, or have been used for very short distances.

Installing rings on the piston

Once again, to what was said above, I repeat - this instruction implies that replacing the piston rings of a VAZ 2101 is done only with your own hands, in a private garage. Therefore, by default, we do not have any “sophisticated” tools and use available materials to install the rings on the piston and the entire piston with rings into the cylinder. In our case, this is... a tin can.

Installation of rings

We cut out metal strips from a tin can and install them around the entire circumference, at even intervals;

• We move the desired ring along the metal strips to the bottom until it is opposite its seat;
• We lift the strips up, while the rings fall into the groove;
• The operation is then repeated for all rings.

Of course, you can perform this action with your bare hands, but the risk of breaking the rings and scratching the piston is too great.

Installing a piston into an engine cylinder

Lubricate the piston rings with oil, insert them into the cylinder block from above and, using a homemade mandrel, insert the piston into the cylinder.

Insert the piston

Assembly process

Next we assemble in reverse order:

We install the oil pump;

Oil pump installation

• We install a new pan gasket and the pan itself;
• We lower the engine into place and fasten the left support;
• Having previously lubricated it with graphite grease, install a new cylinder head gasket, guiding it along the center bushings;
• When installing the cylinder head, following the manufacturer’s instructions, tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts in a certain order and with the indicated force, in four steps:

1. In the established order, we tighten the bolts with a torque of 20 N/m (about half the force);
2. The same, but with more force, with a torque of 70 N/m;
3. In the same order, all bolts are tightened;
4. And once again we stretch it to .

Cylinder head tightening procedure

• Using the marks, we establish the position of the crankshaft and, aligning the marks with the help of an asterisk, mount the camshaft bed;
• We put the sprocket itself in place with the chain on it and tighten the bolt securing it;
• We tighten the chain and turn the engine a couple of revolutions to make sure that the crankshaft and chain tension marks are installed correctly;
• In the final part, we install all the “attached” equipment in place, install a new oil filter, fill in coolant and oil, install the battery terminal and start the engine.

I hope that in this article I clearly outlined how to replace piston rings on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands.

In conclusion, I would like to give one last piece of advice regarding running in the engine after repairs. Since we have the same diagnosis - we are the owners of domestic Zhiguli cars, the selection of spare parts must be approached with special attention. No one is immune from purchasing low-quality components. Therefore, to prevent possible deviations (shrinkage, foreign inclusions in the metal structure, temperature deformation), it is recommended to drive the first thousand kilometers with a load of no more than 50% of the nominal load, after which the oil should be changed

And those who are especially suspicious are allowed to extend the break-in period to five thousand, with oil changes at the first and fifth thousand kilometers.

VAZ 2103 engine malfunctions

The most common defects found on the engine:

All these malfunctions are associated with various reasons, which will be discussed below.

The engine gets very hot

Experts call the main reason for overheating of the engine unit a lack of refrigerant in the system. According to the rules, before leaving the garage, the driver is required to check the level of all technical fluids each time. But not everyone does this, and then they are surprised to find themselves with a “boiling” internal combustion engine on the side of the road.

Antifreeze may leak from the system. In this case, there is a malfunction - a violation of the integrity of the cooling system. Antifreeze stains on the floor of the garage in which the car was parked directly indicate to the owner that there is a leak. It is important to eliminate it in a timely manner, otherwise there will not be a drop of liquid left in the tank and system.

Another reason for engine overheating is a non-working radiator fan. On a VAZ 2103, the quality of cooling by the engine blades is extremely important. The slightest sagging of the drive belt has a negative effect on it. But this is not the only reason for the element to be released.

Finally, overheating of the internal combustion engine can occur due to damage to the thermostat.

Engine knock

On a VAZ 2103, engine knock is detected without special equipment, by ear. A 1-meter wooden pole is taken and one end is applied to the motor in the part being tested. The other side of the pole should be clenched in your fist and brought to your ear. It turns out something like a stethoscope.

VAZ 2103 engine smokes

As a rule, at the same time as the smoke, the engine eats up oil. It may be gray in color and increase with increasing idle speed. The reason is related to the oil scraper rings that require replacement. It is also possible that one of the candles is not working.

In some cases, this happens due to a ruptured gasket or insufficient tightening of the head bolts. On older engines, there may be a crack in the block head.

Troubles the engine

The phrase “troubling engine” means that one or more cylinders are not working. The power plant is not capable of developing full power and does not have the required traction force - accordingly, fuel consumption increases.

The main causes of tripping are: faulty spark plugs, incorrectly set ignition timing, loss of tightness in the intake manifold area, etc.

Lada 2106 VAZeratti › Logbook › Piston markings.

Friends, hello everyone. And so, that's the crux of the matter. I changed a lot in the engine. And the oil pump and the piglet. New pig bushings with reamer. Timing belt from a shnivy with a drive gear for an oil pump of reduced diameter. New camshaft with pastel, different options for oil filters (from LadaDetal to Champion). Thicker oil, thinner oil. And still, when standing in a traffic jam for a long time, the oil pressure light sometimes blinks. There are no extraneous sounds in the engine. It turned out surprisingly quiet. I understand that blinking the light bulb is allowed. But it doesn't make me happy. The engine does not consume oil and does not throw oil into the ventilation. There may be several reasons: Wear and tear of everything. There is such a possibility, but the mileage is only 58,000 km

And then, at a club meeting, one good person (Pash, about you) said that maybe I have connecting rods from the factory with holes for pouring oil onto the piston bottom.

And all the pressure sprays out. Six months ago I bought a set of “Ks” piston group.

Includes: 4 pistons 4 pins Rings are installed on the pistons.

And then a friend gave me a zero crankshaft 2103. From long-term storage (I hope that we will get off with polishing, or grind it to 0.25 with subsequent balancing).

There is a piston, there is a knee. All that's left are the connecting rods. And here's the question. Connecting rods are selected according to the piston pin class. Everything is clear with the classification of domestic pistons and connecting rods.

From the markings I understood that: 78.96 is the diameter of the piston itself Sp 0.04 is the thermal gap R1c-? 91317-? The markings on all pistons are the same. Tell me, who knows what class of piston pin?

Mileage: 58,085 km

Pistons

Many domestic and imported cars use repair pistons manufactured at the production facilities of the Kostroma manufacturer of piston groups, Motordetal-Kostroma. This company produces pistons with a diameter from 76 to 150 mm. Today the following types of pistons are produced:

• solid cast;
• with thermostatic insert;
• with an insert for the upper compression ring;
• with oil cooling channel.

Pistons produced under the specified brand have their own designations. In this case, information (marking) can be applied in two ways - laser and micro-impact. First, let’s look at specific examples of markings made using laser engraving:

• EAL - compliance with the technical regulations of the customs union;
• Made in Russia - direct indication of the country of origin;
• 1 - group by mass;
• H1—diameter group;
• 20-0305A-1 - product number;
• K1 (in a circle) - sign of the technical control department (QCD);
• 05/15/2016 - a direct indication of the production date of the piston;
• Sp 0.2 - gap between the piston and cylinder (temperature).

Now let's look at the designations applied using the so-called micro-impact, using specific examples:

• 95.5 - overall diameter size;
• B - diameter group;
• III - group according to finger diameter;
• K (in a circle) - quality control (quality control) sign;
• 04/26/2017 - direct indication of the production date of the piston.

It is worth noting here that for the production of different pistons, different aluminum alloys with alloying additives are used. However, this information is not indicated directly on the piston body, but is recorded in its technical documentation.

Thermal clearance of piston rings

PCs are spring discs with one cut - when installed on the piston, they expand, and in the sleeve they are pressed tightly against its walls. In order to achieve maximum compression of the working mixture, the cylinder walls must be as smooth as possible (without defects), and the shape of the internal cavity must be perfectly round. On the piston, the PCs are placed in special grooves, moreover, they are not seated tightly, and on a cold piston they move freely in the grooves.

Piston rings have thermal clearances:

The clearances must be certain; if they are larger or smaller than the required value, the piston group will quickly fail. One should take into account the fact that when heated, the metal expands, and if the thermal gap of the PC is too small, the piston group will begin to overheat. With large gaps, tightness is not ensured and power losses occur.

For passenger cars, as a rule, the following clearances are established:

• between the grooves and the PDA - from 0.02 to 0.08 mm (for the upper ring the gap should be slightly larger);
• between grooves and MPC – from 0.05 to 0.06 mm;
• at the junction - from 0.25 to 0.5 mm.

As wear occurs, the gaps in the PC increase, and they should not exceed:

• between the ring and the groove – 0.15 mm;
• at the junction – 1.0 mm.

VAZ 2103 pistons sizes by groups

The piston stroke of the VAZ 2103 car engine is 80 (mm), the compression ratio is 8.5 units.

The piston is the main part of the internal combustion engine, which performs the function of converting the energy of fuel combustion into the mechanical work of the engine.

The material used for the manufacture of pistons for this VAZ model is aluminum alloy coated with tin.

Dimensions of pistons for VAZ 2103 1.5 MT:

• Piston stroke: 80 (mm);
• Compression ratio: 8.5;
• Piston diameter: 76.00 - 76.05 (mm);
• Years of production: 1972 - 1983.

Important: some modifications of this model (VAZ 21033 and VAZ 21033) are equipped with a 66 (mm) stroke piston.

The 4-door sedan VAZ 2103 was exported under the names VAZ 2107, VAZ 1500, Lada Nova, Lada Riva, Lada Signet, Lada 1500.

Important: years of production of all modifications of the model: 1972-1984.

Caution: The above data are the official figures of the manufacturer, however, please note that the information is for reference only and is not guaranteed to be completely accurate.

Source of the article: https://razmery.info/tehnika/porshni/razmery-porshney-vaz-2103.html

Decarbonization of piston rings

If the engine starts to smoke, there is a possibility that there are rings stuck in the piston grooves. Nowadays, there are many different modern means for decarbonizing piston rings, and many drivers use them to restore engine performance. Among the most popular compositions are:

• Nitrox Power;
• LAVR ML-202;
• Titanium;
• LIQUI MOLY;
• WYNN'S.

Motorists believe that if the engine starts smoking, you need to use a decarbonizer, and the engine will work as before, without oil consumption and without smoke. Indeed, sometimes these remedies help, but only in cases where the motor has stood motionless for a long time (for example, after winter), and moisture has accumulated in it. If the car is subject to long-term preservation (put in a garage for winter storage), you should remove the spark plugs and pour oil into the cylinders, and plug the spark plug holes with plugs. With such prevention, the spark plugs will not become damp and rust will not accumulate on the sleeves.

But if, after all, a forgetful car owner has not taken preventive measures, you can use a decarbonizer. We get rid of rust in cylinders as follows:

• pull off high-voltage wires;
• unscrew all spark plugs;
• rotate the crankshaft so that all pistons are in the middle position;
• pour 45 ml of liquid into each cylinder, install spark plugs;
• leave the cylinders to “soak” for 6-7 hours;
• why do we turn out the spark plugs, turn the starter a few revolutions so that all the dirt flies out of the engine;
• We put the removed parts back in place and start the engine. At first it may smoke a lot, but then the smoke will go away.

Car owners should remember that decarbonization is not a panacea for all ills, and if the piston rings are worn out, then only replacing them will help.

As a rule, in Zhiguli cars with an age of more than 150,000, the wear on the piston group is already quite significant, and if you are also the owner of, to put it mildly, a little used “penny” that is being repaired by someone unknown and when, then in 90% of cases you will have to replace the piston with a VAZ 2101.

Signs and causes of wear (breakage) of piston rings

On VAZ cars, the engine wears out during operation, and the PCs also fail. Rings can:

• break into two or more parts;
• wear out in thickness;
• have general wear and tear.

Parts often break down due to overheating of the internal combustion engine; in this case, compression in the cylinders decreases and the engine loses power. Signs of a faulty PC are:

• bluish smoke from the muffler pipe, especially often it appears after a long period of idling when the gas pedal is sharply pressed;
• increased engine oil consumption;
• drop in power, the motor stops pulling;
• coking of spark plugs.