Engine plugs VAZ 2110 8 valves

Motorists often have to deal with a problem when liquid leaks from the cooling system. The cause may be deteriorated plugs in the car engine cylinder block. Usually this is the appearance of holes from rust. Fixing the problem is not particularly difficult - just remove them and replace them with new ones.

Installation of plugs in the VAZ cylinder block

Replacing the engine block plug

Simply put, cylinder block plugs are needed so that if the coolant in the engine cooling system freezes, the cylinder block itself does not burst.
The fact is that the transformation of the coolant, which is located in the cooling jacket, into ice, leads to the fact that the icy liquid expands. This causes overstressing of the block and can lead to cracks. Also, during vehicle operation, a situation often arises when coolant flows through the plugs. You can often find that the block plugs are rusty, that is, they are destroyed due to corrosion. In one case or another, these elements need to be replaced. Next we will look at how to change the engine block plugs.

Let's sum it up

It is well known that overheating is one of the most common reasons why an internal combustion engine can be seriously damaged or fail completely. At the same time, repair and restoration of an overheated internal combustion engine turn out to be very costly operations in practice; sometimes it is necessary to replace the engine with a contract engine, etc.

At the same time, the efficiency of the cooling system directly depends on the quality and condition of the coolant, its level, as well as the cleanliness of the channels of this system themselves. In order to avoid problems with corrosion, get rid of the formation of scale and deposits, and also eliminate the risk that the liquid in the cooling system will freeze in winter, you need to use special coolants. Otherwise, the thermostat may quickly begin to work incorrectly, the pump impeller will be damaged, etc.

You also need to remember that any antifreeze has a limited service life (maximum 4 years), and mixing different types of coolant with each other is also prohibited. Even before replacing antifreeze or antifreeze, the engine cooling system must be flushed using special or household products for flushing the engine cooling system.

Why does engine oil get into antifreeze: the main causes of this malfunction. What will happen to the engine if oil is found in antifreeze or antifreeze?

Reasons why coolant starts to leak. How to find the location of an antifreeze or antifreeze leak yourself. Useful tips and tricks.

Why do antifreeze or antifreeze enter the engine cylinders and what to do in such a situation. How to determine the presence of antifreeze in the cylinders yourself, repair methods.

Replacing the coolant working fluid of the engine cooling system. Features of the draining procedure. Removing antifreeze residues from the cylinder block.

How to unscrew a broken pin or broken bolt from an engine block and other components. Methods for unscrewing a broken bolt, useful tips.

Causes of oil leaks in the oil filter area: oil flows from under the filter, through the housing, in the area of the fitting, etc. Available diagnostic and repair methods.

What does the engine cooling system consist of?

Let's consider the main elements of the internal combustion engine cooling system:

A pump is a pump that pumps coolant.
Closed channels through which antifreeze “walks,” leveling the temperature of heated engine elements to operating temperature. The system is divided into large and small circuits, through which the liquid is distributed using a thermostat.
Thermostat is a mechanism that separates the antifreeze flows along the two circuits indicated above. When the engine heats up to a certain temperature, the thermostat valve opens and the liquid enters a large circuit, where cooling occurs due to the fan and radiator.
The radiator is located at the front of the engine and is the main heat exchanger. The counter-flow of air cools the liquid passing through the radiator.
Cooling Fan. The fan turns on if the oncoming air flow is not enough to cool the liquid in the radiator.

Preparing for replacement - removing the cylinder head

As you guessed from the title, the first stage of repair will be removing the cylinder head. This is not very difficult to do. Detailed instructions for removal/installation are in the article about cylinder head repair. In this article I will give only a brief description of the process for those who know how to do it and you just need to remind them of the procedure. But it won’t hurt anyone to refresh their memory, so I still advise you to read the article about head repair. First, drain the coolant. How to do this correctly is written in the article about replacing antifreeze. Next, remove the air filter, its housing, all wires and hoses. Then unscrew the valve cover, align the marks, loosen the tensioner, unscrew the sprocket and remove it. After this, unscrew the camshaft nuts and pull them out. Next, remove the rockers (it is important not to confuse and put everything in its place during assembly). Don’t forget to unscrew the “pants” of the exhaust system, the pipes to the stove and everything that prevents you from removing the head. Next, unscrew the hex bolts and remove the cylinder head, clean it from dirt and carbon deposits. Now the fun begins.

Stages of repair on 8 and 16 valve cars

Eliminating engine fluid leaks

Leaking motor fluid from an internal combustion engine (8 or 16 valves) is an important symptom in which the cylinder head requires repair. Typically, fluid leaks from under the plug. It is located directly on the cylinder head at the rear of the engine. Leakage is usually caused by worn o-rings.

In order to replace the plug, you need to unscrew three bolts from the studs.
Having done this, you can remove the sealing rubber from the installation site.
It is better not to use domestically produced sealing gaskets, since their quality leaves much to be desired. In order to protect yourself from having to replace the ring again, it is better to use a sealant. For greater convenience, the sealant can be filled into a medical syringe.
Squeeze some sealant into the place where the plug will be installed. Wait five minutes before installing the new gasket in place and then installing the plug.

How to replace the plug

Use the correct size holder to install the cup plug.

Lubricate the plug and hole with sealant.

Insert the dome plug with the dome facing out. Make sure it is not skewed. Tap the center of the plug with a striker to expand it. The plug must fit firmly into the hole.

Use the striker to install the domed plug.

To install the cup plug, find a holder that fits snugly into the cup. Place the plug at right angles to the hole and then hit the holder with a soft hammer.

Make sure that the plug does not bend and remember that its edges should protrude slightly beyond the hole. This will make it easier for you to remove the plug if necessary.

On some older BL series engines, the plugs in the engine base plate are installed using a bolt.

In some designs there is simply no place to swing a hammer to install the plug. For example, on Leyland B engines the dome plugs, hidden by the base plate, are directly opposite the baffle, but there are special holes in the base plate.

Insert a new plug, insert a 50 mm long bolt into the hole, put a nut on it and tighten it a little to press the plug into the groove.

This method is also used for other problem areas.

The cylinder head plug is designed to prevent fluid from leaking out of the corresponding technological unit. It is not directly involved in the functioning of the internal combustion engine.

Sometimes drivers notice that this plug is leaking. Leaks are usually caused by corrosion. Fixing the problem is quite simple by changing the part.

Elimination of lateral play

The lateral play is determined by loosening the camshaft up and down, for which one of the covers of the support cushions is removed. This play appears when the camshaft journals and the shaft bed support pads against which they rest are worn.

First, we dismantle both camshaft cushion covers and remove excess metal using an emery stone with a fine-grained abrasive. Its surface must be perfectly flat so as not to disturb the geometry of the part. An alternative is fine-grained sandpaper glued to smooth glass.

The pad cover is ground with an abrasive to reduce its depth, causing it to hold the shaft more tightly. To prevent the emery from clogging, it is recommended to periodically water it with water. After 1-1.5 minutes of processing, the cover must be replaced and tightened, checking for play. It is important not to remove too much metal as the camshaft will stop turning. After installation, it should move without play with a slight, so-called “velvety” force.

Next, the operation is repeated with the second cover of the support cushion, while the cover that was processed earlier must be removed so that it does not interfere with determining the degree of camshaft play. After the backlash is completely eliminated, both covers are installed and the engine is assembled. After starting the engine, the knocking should stop completely.

Video: A simple way to eliminate camshaft knocking on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115.

You also need to fill it correctly

Now that you know how to drain antifreeze from a VAZ-2110, you can talk about how to properly fill in fresh refrigerant. This process is much simpler than the previous one, but there are some nuances here.

The main task facing a car owner who pours coolant into the system is to prevent air locks from occurring in it. No, they are not dangerous for the engine, but they are extremely undesirable, especially in winter, when the “stove” operation is necessary. Plugs create obstacles to the normal circulation of the refrigerant, and in addition, reduce its volume in the system. So it turns out that we filled in 6-7 liters, but the “stove” does not heat as it should. And the troubleshooting begins.

But when filling in antifreeze, all you need to do is disconnect the hose from the throttle assembly and fill until the refrigerant flows out of it. After this, we put the hose on the fitting and continue to fill the liquid to the level. When it is reached, without closing the expansion tank cap, we start the engine, wait until it warms up to operating temperature, and “pump” the hoses going to the cooling radiator, periodically squeezing them with our hands. Air, if there is any, will definitely come out. All you have to do is add liquid to the level.

It often happens when a car is driven for more than 80-100 thousand kilometers and, at the same time, the antifreeze / antifreeze has never been replaced. Every owner of a VAZ 2110 car should know that the coolant needs to be replaced every 45 thousand kilometers or every two years, whichever comes first.

If you do not change the coolant in a timely manner, then corrosion may appear in the channels of the block and cylinder head ahead of time and the engine life, of course, will be reduced. This is especially true for the cylinder head. Quite often I had to disassemble engines and look at the cooling channels in the cylinder head eaten by corrosion. After such a picture, you become scared for your car and you will definitely not forget to change the antifreeze on time.

We will need:

— head for 10 and 13; - ratchet; - Phillips screwdriver; - keys for 13 and 17 (provided that you have a 2111 engine and will have to remove the ignition module).

Let us recall that in the previous article we looked at one of the most important procedures in a car - regular DIY. Our editors recommend replacing it every 7-8 thousand kilometers, and not 15,000 km - as the manufacturer recommends.

I’ve already said it above, but it’s better to repeat it again. If you have a 2110-2112 engine, then the antifreeze drain plug located in the block is free and can be used without any problems. If the engine model is 2111, then an ignition module is installed there, so it will have to be removed first. Here is its location (below the 4th cylinder).

After it is removed and set aside to avoid flooding with antifreeze, you can begin further work. We unscrew the front part of the engine crankcase protection so that you can place a container under the radiator drain hole.

Now we unscrew the cap of the expansion tank, then the plug in the engine block and radiator, of course, you first need to place a container of the required volume under each drain hole.

Here is the plug in the block after unscrewing.

But on the radiator.

It is worth noting that when draining coolant on a VAZ 2110, the car must be on a flat, flat surface. After all the antifreeze has drained, you can screw the plug into place in the cylinder block and radiator. Next, you can begin replacing the coolant. To avoid an air lock in the cooling system, first disconnect the fluid supply hose to the throttle assembly, which is shown in the photo below.

And when pouring antifreeze into the expansion tank, you need to pour it until it flows out of this disconnected hose. Then we put it on the terminal and tighten the clamp. Next, top up to the required level and tighten the tank cap.

We start the engine and let it warm up until the radiator cooling fan comes on. We wait until the car has completely cooled down (the morning after the replacement) and look at the fluid level in the conservator.

If it is below normal, then you need to add the required amount. Replacing antifreeze/antifreeze on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands was successfully completed; the work took only 1.5 hours.

VAZ cylinder head plugs

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How to install the ignition

There are marks on the flywheel and the scale of the crankcase hatch, which are used to set the top dead center. The rubber plug installed on the crankcase hatch is removed. As it rotates, the crankshaft rotates until the marks on the flywheel coincide with the middle mark on the hatch body. In this case, the pistons of the fourth and first cylinders are in the top dead center position.
Wires are connected to the carburetor, ignition distributor, spark plugs and other sensors.
An air filter is installed.
The cooling system is filled with antifreeze or water.
The negative wire is connected to the battery.
The operation of the car engine is checked.

This is a brief instruction on how to replace the plug yourself.

Tip: In order to replace a small plug or a large plug on the flywheel side on the cylinder block, you need to disassemble the car engine.

Making plugs

There are times when it is not possible to purchase new parts, or when the price of a new one exceeds its production. Typically, at the factory, the plug is manufactured in large batches using the cold stamping method by extruding from a metal sheet of the appropriate thickness, followed by cutting along the contour. For individual designs, it is better to use round stock of the appropriate diameter, and machine a disc five millimeters thick from it. Carefully adjust it to the diameter of the mounting diameter, coat it with glue and insert it into the hole, which must first be thoroughly cleaned and degreased. How to replace the plugs is clearly seen in the video. According to statistics, fluid leaks from the engine cylinder block or a faulty cooling system cause the most mechanical breakdowns of cars on the roads. High temperatures in the cooling system lead to contamination of the internal walls of the system from the formation of scale, which clogs the channels of the cylinder block and cooling radiator, which contributes to engine overheating. As a result, the engine fails.

How does CO work?

CO scheme

On the 8-valve injection VAZ 2110, the cooling system operates due to coolant forcedly circulating through it. When the engine heats up, excess pressure arises, which is released through the exhaust valve.
For the 16 valve injection VAZ 2110, the cooling system has an optimal operating temperature in the range of 90-95 degrees Celsius. And the valve is activated when pressure occurs with indicators from 1.2 to 1.4 kgf/cm2.
When the excess pressure is released, the engine returns to normal temperature and the intake valve is turned on. This happens cycle after cycle.
If the pressure balance is disturbed, overheating occurs, the consequences of which can be various types of breakdowns, including the need to completely replace the power unit.
Due to the operation of the thermostat and electric fan, the VAZ 2110 maintains the required constant operating temperature. There is a sensor on the cylinder head that transmits information about the current coolant temperature to the control unit.
A command is sent from the coolant temperature sensor to the cooling system, which begins to work in order to reduce engine heating.
If there is electronic injection in the car design, it also has a special sensor that sends a message to the electronic control unit about overheating of the power unit.
The pump supplies coolant, distributed by the thermostat.
When you turn on the engine, it needs to warm up to operating temperature. To do this, the thermostat directs the coolant through a small circuit, without including circulation through the radiator. The small circuit includes: Heater for warming up the interior;
Carburetor heating unit (naturally, only on carburetor VAZ 2110);
Heating of the throttle unit;
Intake manifold.

When the engine warms up to approximately 90 degrees Celsius, the thermostat sends some of the coolant to the radiator. When the engine overheating sensor is triggered, all the cooling liquid circulates through a large circuit.

Replacement procedure

First of all, you need to make the area in which the stub is located accessible. To do this, follow these steps (in this order):

Disconnecting the exhaust pipes of the muffler from the exhaust manifold.
Removing the bracket on which the pump pipe for supplying coolant is fixed.
Disconnecting the hoses that provide ventilation to the unit from the carburetor and cylinder head cover. Closing the carburetor with a special cover.
Removing the air filter.
Disconnecting the wires from the carburetor, ignition distribution sensor, spark plugs.
Removing the sensor that distributes the ignition.
Disconnecting hoses from the fuel pump, outlet pipe, vacuum brake booster.
Disconnecting the air and throttle valve drive cables.
Removing the toothed belt protective cover.
Removing the pulley with key.
Removing the cylinder head.

Direct replacement of the plug includes the following:

Rotating the plug into the cylinder head using a chisel and hammer.
Pry the plug with pliers and remove it. If the part is very rusty and does not turn, you need to make a hole, screw a knob into it and pull out the plug.
Cleaning the edges of the cylinder head hole from corrosion using sandpaper. Lubricating the edges of the new part with a sealing agent.
Pressing the part into the cylinder head hole using a mandrel and a hammer.

Installing a new plug

After the old plug is completely removed, we proceed to install the new one. First you need to do some preparatory operations, described below. The first step is to clean the threads for the plug in the cylinder head so that the new plug can be screwed in easily. To do this, you can use an awl with a curved end or something similar. Next, you need to blow out the head channels to get rid of any aluminum shavings that have gotten inside. Particular attention should be paid to oil channels. As soon as these operations are completed, we begin installing a new plug. We take it, coat it with sealant and tighten it with a hexagon. When you feel that the plug is tightly seated, you should stop tightening, fanaticism is not needed here, you just need a tight connection. In addition, the tapered thread itself is quite tight, so you shouldn’t pull too hard. Then we wipe off the excess sealant and leave the cylinder head alone for a couple of hours to allow the sealant to harden.

After this, the repaired cylinder head can be put in place, everything can be assembled and coolant can be filled in. If it turns out that the antifreeze does not want to go into the cooling system, then I advise you to read the article on how to remove the air lock. This completes the replacement of the cylinder head plug. I hope the article will be useful. Don't forget to share it with your friends on social networks!

How to remove the plug

The cup-shaped plug can be pulled out with two pairs of pliers.

Plugs of any type are removed using a thin screwdriver. Use a blade to pierce the center of the plug and pull it out.

Remember that the movement must be uniform. Otherwise, the plug will become skewed and get stuck.

Use a screwdriver to pierce the old plug and pull it out.

In some cases, the edges of the cup-shaped plug stick out quite a bit and can be grabbed with two pairs of pliers. When pulling out the plug, apply equal force on both sides. Do not try to use the screwdriver as a lever and rest it on the block, so as not to damage the groove itself.

Remove any remaining old caulk with a wooden tool.

Signs of failure of the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ 2110

There are no specific warranty periods for the use of a cylinder head gasket. Its durability is influenced by such factors as: the degree of operation of the engine, its model, driving style and other reasons. However, there are several symptoms by which you can determine that the gasket has failed:

at the junction of the block and the head there are leaks of engine oil or coolant ;
using an oil dipstick, foreign light impurities or foam-like emulsion , which occurs when antifreeze penetrates through the connection with the cylinder head;
the color of the exhaust changes to bluish-white, which indicates water entering the combustion chamber of the cylinder block;
presence of oil stains in the coolant reservoir;
The engine temperature rises due to the breakthrough of hot gases into the cooling system, which immediately heat the coolant.

What to do after replacement

So, the plug has been replaced and is no longer leaking, all that remains is to return the cylinder head to its place. To do this, follow these steps:

Cleaning the cylinder head from contaminants and formations using diesel or kerosene.
Removing remaining coolant from threaded holes.
Cleaning the cylinder head mating surfaces from the old gasket, degreasing them with a solvent.
Installation of the head on the BC.
Head fixation. The fastening bolts are immersed with threads in motor oil. When the lubricant drains (about half an hour), the head is fixed.
Putting the belt on the crankshaft pulley.
Tension the belt counterclockwise.
Installation of the belt drive protective cover (the mounting bolts are not tightened). Turn the crankshaft 2 turns (the belt should be tight even when the crankshaft is stopped). Checking the alignment of the mounting marks on the camshaft pulley and the cylinder head cover. Tightening the bolts securing the tension pulley bracket.
Installation of drive cables for carburetor flaps.
Connecting the removed hoses.
Installation of the ignition distribution sensor.

Now you need to set the ignition timing. To do this, do the following:

Connecting wires to the carburetor, ignition distribution sensor.
Installing an air filter.
Filling the cooling complex with antifreeze/water.
Connecting the negative cable to the battery.
Checking the functioning of the internal combustion engine.

Composition of the output unit

The exhaust system for a VAZ 2110 car consists of the following elements:

Exhaust manifold;
Lambda probe;
Receiving type pipes;
Neutralizer;
Two mufflers: main type and additional.

Not all exhaust components are disassembled; some parts, such as the converter, as well as both mufflers, are replaced entirely.

Description of individual components

To make the structure of such an element as the discharge system clearer, it is necessary to give a detailed description of all components:

Neutralizer. A unit designed for effective purification and suppression of emissions of harmful substances into the environment. When driving, a car produces substances such as non-combustible hydrocarbons, oxide compounds of nitrogen and carbon. The work of this system is aimed at eliminating them. The design itself is a combination of two ceramic-type components. The surface of these components is coated with special afterburning catalysts, which include rhodium, palladium and platinum. These substances make it possible to purify exhaust gases emitted into the environment by almost 100%;
Lambda probe. It is a special sensor whose task is to control the composition and amount of fuel that enters the engine. The lambda probe thereby controls the purifier. If the lambda probe does not work properly, then the entire output assembly will quickly become unusable, after which it will have to be replaced;
Reception pipe. Designed for forced removal of exhaust gases from the cylinders of a power unit. The pipe is made of stainless steel, and its fastening to the collector is carried out using special pins, of which there are four in total. The studs guarantee reliable fastening of the two outlet pipes and the element. In order to combine the exhaust pipe and the neutralizer, as well as an additional muffler, hinged fasteners are used;
An exhaust manifold. A component that is cast from pure cast iron. The manifold is secured with four studs in the exhaust pipe. Heat-resistant gaskets reinforced with metal are installed between the manifold and cylinder heads.
Silencers. Necessary for effectively suppressing the exhaust rate of burnt gases. This is necessary in order to significantly reduce the noise level in a type of transport such as the VAZ 2110. The distribution device in this part of the unit is carried out as follows: the additional one is followed by the main one. These two components are connected to each other by clamps and sealing rings and are covered with a special casing on top.

Nuances of operation

There are some points that need to be taken into account when operating the VAZ 2110 system:

Under no circumstances should the vehicle be refueled with leaded fuel, as this will cause damage. It is very sensitive to lead compounds;
When operating a VAZ 2110 car, you also need to monitor the proper, precise operation of the ignition, since its poor-quality operation leads to the neutralizing part being removed from its working condition. Fuel that does not burn when a spark passes during ignition enters the converter and burns out there. For this reason, the ceramic coating of the component quickly deteriorates;
Frequent malfunctions will sooner or later lead to complete or partial blockage of the output system, in turn to the failure of the engine and its repair or replacement will be required.

Troubleshooting

The operation of a machine is always associated with the occurrence of malfunctions in parts and mechanisms. If some parts become unusable, then they need to be replaced or repaired yourself.

To replace the additional muffler in the exhaust unit:

unscrew the two bolts that secure the clamp, for this you need a 13mm wrench;
remove the clamp itself;
remove the ring;
disconnect the additional suspension cushions;
remove the unit.

After this, a replacement is made, it is mounted in place in the reverse order. These are basic troubleshooting repair steps.

In addition to replacing standard faulty components with the same ones, but only new ones, you can modify individual components of the exhaust system, or tune the entire assembly.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

How to eliminate a coolant leak in a VAZ engine

If a leak occurs in the engine due to bad plugs, they simply need to be replaced with new ones. On earlier production VAZ cars, the set of engine cup plugs includes: one small diameter plug - twenty-five millimeters and five large diameter plugs - forty millimeters. There are instructions on how to replace the VAZ block plug.

Materials and tools for work

Set of plugs.
Hammer.
Pliers.
Chisel.
Screwdriver.
Sealant.
Emery cloth.

There are situations when it is not possible to purchase a set of plugs or you urgently need one, but the price in the auto store does not suit you. In this case, the part can be manufactured. In large batches at the factory, plugs are produced by cold extrusion from a sheet of metal, and then cut along the contour. For single production, it is better to take round rolled products of the required diameter. Make a disk five millimeters thick. Carefully adjust it to the diameter of the mounting hole, coat it with glue and install it in place. Before doing this, the hole must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased.

Preliminary work before replacing plugs on a VAZ car

First of all, you need to free up access to the stubs, remove elements and nodes that interfere:

The battery is disconnected - the negative terminal is removed.
Cooling fluid is drained from the radiator and cylinder block.
It is determined whether it is possible to replace the plug in the VAZ block without additional removal of the engine head.

If you need to remove the head, do the following:

The muffler pipe is disconnected from the exhaust manifold.
The bracket for fastening the pump pipe supplying coolant is removed.
The hoses through which the system is ventilated are disconnected from the cylinder head cover and the carburetor, which is closed with a special cover.

Disconnecting the ventilation hoses from the air filter

The air filter is removed.
The wires from the ignition distributor sensor, carburetor, and spark plugs are disconnected.
The ignition distribution sensor is removed.
The hoses are disconnected from:

fuel pump through which gasoline is supplied;
carburetor, which serves to drain fuel;
outlet pipe, which is installed on the engine cooling jacket;
vacuum brake booster.
The cables connecting the throttle and air damper drives of the carburetor are removed.

The protective cover is removed from the timing belt. The nut securing the tension roller is unscrewed, which is then removed simultaneously with the axle and spacer ring.

The belt is removed from the camshaft pulley.
The bolt is unscrewed and the pulley is removed with the key.
The engine head is released from the mount and removed.

Tip: Replacing the small or large plug on the cylinder block on the flywheel side must be done on a disassembled car engine.

Replacing plugs on a VAZ car

Using a bit or chisel in one hand and a hammer in the other, gently tapping the edge of the plug, the part is turned in the engine block.

Turning the cylinder block plug using a screwdriver

Then it is pryed with pliers and removed from the nest. In a badly damaged plug, when it cannot be turned, a hole is made, a wrench is inserted into it and removed.

Drilled hole in a badly worn plug

Tip: If a part falls inside the engine, you can drag it to the hole with a magnetic pointer and pull it out with pliers.

Clean the edges of the holes with sandpaper to remove rust. To ensure reliability, the edges of the new plug are lubricated with sealant before installation in the socket.

The photo clearly shows the difference between the old and new plugs.

New and old plug for VAZ

The plug is put in place.
Using a hammer and a mandrel, the plug is carefully pressed into the designated hole in the engine cylinder block.

Pressing the plug into the engine housing

The block head is put in place. If necessary, before installation, replace the plugs on the heads of the VAZ block. The procedure for performing the work is similar to that for the cylinder block.

You can see in detail how the plugs are replaced on a VAZ 2108 in the video.

Installing the block head

After the VAZ engine block plugs have been replaced, its head is attached to the cylinder block. So:

It is necessary to clean the head of deposits and dirt. For this you can use diesel fuel or kerosene.
Remaining coolant and oil are removed from the threaded holes.
The old gasket is removed and then the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block are degreased with a solvent.

Tip: When installing the cylinder head, use a new gasket. You need to make sure that no oil gets on it.

The head is installed on the cylinder block.
The fasteners are dipped into engine oil with the threaded part, drained for about 30 minutes and installed on the head.
The belt is installed. To do this, it is put on a pulley located on the crankshaft. The belt tension is done counterclockwise.
Without completely tightening the bolts, the belt drive protection is attached. The crankshaft rotates smoothly two turns, while the belt must be under constant tension and not weaken when the shaft rotation stops.
Check the alignment of the marks on the middle cover and the crankshaft pulley, as well as on the cylinder head cover and the camshaft pulley. When they match, all the bolts securing the tension roller bracket are tightened. First the right one, then the left one.
The cables for driving the throttle and air dampers of the carburetor are installed.
The previously removed hoses are connected.
The ignition distribution sensor is connected.
The ignition timing is set correctly, otherwise interruptions in engine operation may occur, fuel consumption will increase, and the engine will overheat.
The top dead center is set according to the marks located on the scale of the crankcase hatch and the flywheel. To do this, remove the rubber plug from the crankcase hatch. The crankshaft rotates as it rotates until the marks on the flywheel and the middle mark on the hatch body coincide. In this case, the pistons of the first and fourth cylinders will be in the TDC zone.
Wires are connected to the carburetor and sensors.
An air filter is installed.
The car cooling system is refilled with water, preferably antifreeze.
The battery is connected.
The operation of the motor is checked.

Ignition installation

This is how plugs are replaced on VAZ engines. Leaking fluid from the engine cylinder block or malfunctions in the cooling system on the roads create a large number of mechanical breakdowns of the car. The increased temperature that occurs in the cooling system leads to the formation of scale, which contaminates the internal walls of the engine housing. In addition, scale clogs the channels of the cooling radiator and cylinder block, and this leads to overheating of the engine, which can fail. All this indicates that replacing the VAZ engine plug must be done in a timely manner.