Lost battery charge of Priora 16 valves reasons

Hello everyone, I have this problem: on my way home from work, the charger disappeared, it was raining and there were quite deep puddles. As soon as the “battery light” came on, I immediately stopped and turned it off, looked at the generator - it was dry, the belt was in place and tensioned as it should.

I arrived at the garage and spent a long time fooling around with a book that says: Check fuse F1 under the steering column, but for some reason I don’t have it there at all. In short, I checked all the fuses - everything is fine.

I took off the generator, examined it, but didn’t really notice anything. Guys, tell me why this happened, I’m no stranger to electrics.

If a battery that is more than 5-7 years old is not charging , then the answer to the question is: “ why ?” most likely lies on the surface. After all, any battery has its own service life and over time loses some of its basic performance characteristics. But what if the battery lasted no more than 2 or 3 years, or even less? Where then should we look for reasons why the battery does not want to charge? Moreover, this situation occurs not only when recharging from a generator in a car, but even when it is replenished from a charger. Answers must be sought depending on the situation by performing a series of checks followed by procedures aimed at eliminating the problem.

Most often, you can expect 5 main reasons that manifest themselves in eight different situations:

No charger? Let's figure it out!

By the way, problems with charging on all those cars that I personally had to use occurred extremely rarely. For the most part, this began after the 90-100 thousand mileage mark. Priora is no exception. If on a relatively new car, when the new generator and all other components are in perfect order, these problems are practically eliminated, then on a used car, problems with battery charging can occur quite often.

The indicator light has burned out

Here's how to quickly check whether your car's alternator light is burnt out or not:

• The test lamp clamp is placed on the negative wire of the battery or on ground (any exposed area of ​​the body);
• disconnect the block with the indicator wire from the generator;

Block with indicator wire

• turn on the ignition, touch the plug terminal with the second test probe (where the battery indicator wire goes).

If the light comes on, then it is in order, there is no problem even in the entire area from the generator to the instrument panel. Most likely there is a fault in the block or connection. It is possible that the regulator relay is damaged because it does not produce normal voltage.

If the generator controller does not light up, then the light bulb or fuse has already blown. In this case, auto electricians go through the entire ignition circuit in this area.

Why is there no battery charging and where to look for it?

In fact, there are a great many reasons why charging may fail. And most of them are connected with the most important unit in this regard - the generator. Let's look at the main ones that can most often occur.

1. Wear of generator brushes on Priora. As mentioned above, when all the parts are still new and without wear, then such malfunctions essentially cannot exist. But when the mark is 90-100 thousand km. has already been overcome, the first calls begin. And the most common reason for the battery not charging is excessive wear of the brushes. This issue can be easily resolved - replace them with new ones. The price of the assembled part is about 350 rubles.
2. The second reason can also be compared with brushes, since it is with this part that they come into contact during operation. These are the armature slip rings. It is worth removing the plastic cover of the generator and looking at the contact points of the brushes and rings to understand how much wear these parts have had! It is not always possible to carry out this replacement on your own, but almost any electrician will do it in half an hour.
3. Failure of the generator diode bridge. Even if one of the diodes breaks through, there will be poor charging, which will lead to a constant discharge of the battery. In this case, the rectifier unit is replaced.
4. Failure of the regulator relay - it is replaced as an assembly with the brush assembly, while the brushes themselves can be replaced separately (again, with the help of a good electrician).
5. More serious problems occur with parts such as the stator, rotor, bearings, etc., which are actually much less common than the above cases.

Generator repair kits

To eliminate these generator malfunctions, you will need to carry out repairs. When you start searching for a generator repair kit on the Internet, you should prepare for disappointment - the kits offered usually contain washers, bolts and nuts. And sometimes the generator can only be restored to functionality by replacing brushes, a diode bridge, a regulator... Therefore, the brave person who decides to repair it makes an individual repair kit from those parts that fit his generator. It looks something like this, as shown in the table below, using the example of a pair of generators for a VAZ 2110 and a Ford Focus 2.

Symptoms of loss of battery charging on a Priora

The very first thing that many people pay attention to is that the battery charging light on the dashboard came on. If you have a multimeter at hand, you can measure the output charging current by connecting the contacts to the “+” and “-” terminals, respectively. If even without a load the device readings are less than 13 Volts, this indicates that there are certain problems with charging.

Of course, it is possible (although it is highly not recommended) to remove the “-” terminal from the battery while the engine is running, thereby checking the functionality of the generator. If the engine stalls, this will indicate that there is actually no charging, and accordingly, the generator is faulty.

Also, the charging lamp may glow at half-glow, which also indicates insufficient charging current. If one of the symptoms listed above occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the generator and its parts. If necessary, replace them with new ones. If you have anything to add to this article, you can comment below.

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Selection of components

The original generator, installed on a car with a 16-valve engine at the factory, is marked with article number 5102.377. Its cost, as a rule, fluctuates around six to seven thousand.

Carefully check the generator itself and its packaging before purchasing so as not to encounter a counterfeit. It is important that the part is free of unevenness, chips and paint runs, as well as extraneous markings.

To avoid overpayments, you can purchase a similar original spare part. The following devices are suitable for installation on Lada Priora:

The price of analogues can be either higher or lower than that of the original. As a rule, it is in the region of 3500-6000 rubles. We choose a generator device with a large power reserve so that it lasts longer.

Keep in mind that installing less powerful generators is unacceptable, especially if you connect several different devices to the vehicle’s on-board network (when connecting a large number of electronics, it is generally recommended to increase the current). Before purchasing, we carefully check for damage to the case and the integrity of the unit.

Priora generator does not charge

Several times I found myself in an unpleasant situation when the prior generator did not charge, and at the most inopportune moment, due to the battery being discharged, I could not start the car.

At the same time, the control light did not light up while driving, but the fact that it did not light up and when I turned on the ignition, I did not pay attention to it. The generator was not charging. When you turn on the ignition, a lot of warning lights come on and it’s very difficult to see that any are off, and you almost never pay attention to them.

The car started, the pressure light went out, and the rest did not affect the speed. Yes, and it’s built into the subconscious if the charge is lost, then the battery sign will light up.

Diagnostic Tools

The right tools will make it faster and easier to diagnose the problem when you turn on the ignition. Therefore, let’s not be lazy, prepare everything you need:

• portable powerful lamp for good lighting;
• controller with probe and clamp;
• battery load plug;

Checking the battery with a load fork

• cable tracker or locator for locating a wire/cable and tracing the entire circuit in the cable line to the relay - consists of a receiver and transmitter;
• multimeter for checking the lamp;

Multimeter

• improvised adjustable voltage unit, professional or homemade, simple type.

Adjustable voltage unit

Relay-regulator connection diagram

According to the diagram, the HL 4 LED will light up if a plus from the ignition switch comes to connector pin 21 and diode VD 1 passes the minus from the LED through connector 32 to the positive brush of the regulator relay, where through the armature winding and the minus brush the LED finds a minus and lights up. In my case, there was no contact on the positive brush due to the fact that it was worn out and jammed in the seat, in short, it froze. I just changed the relay regulator with new brushes and charging appeared. I'm lucky. It was more difficult if the LED or VD 1 diode burned out and would have to be replaced.

Fault diagnosis

In any case, it is necessary to connect the circuit from the VD 1 diode to the connector on the generator relay regulator. The easiest way to do this is to remove the connector from the generator that receives the plus for the excitation winding and connect it to ground

When the ignition is turned on, the indicator light with a picture of the battery should light up. Everything is most likely the same as in my case, the problem is in the brushes.

When the engine starts and the light goes out, this means that the electronic unit supplies the generator excitation current to the relay brush, diode VD 2 passes the positive signal, but diode VD 1 closes due to its property of passing current in one direction and the LED goes out

Principle of operation

The autogenerator voltage regulator is designed to maintain the voltage of the on-board network within the required limits under any operating mode and at different generator speeds, load changes and changes in external temperature. It is also capable of performing additional functions - protecting the generator from overloads and emergency operation, automatically connecting the excitation windings or the generator failure alarm system to the on-board circuit.

The operation of any voltage regulator is based on the same principle and is determined by the following factors:

1. Rotor speed.
2. The current strength that the generator delivers to the load.
3. An indicator of the magnetic flux created by the field winding current.

Higher rotor speeds determine an increase in generator voltage. An increase in current strength on the excitation winding makes the magnetic flux stronger, and at the same time the voltage. Any voltage regulator stabilizes it by changing the excitation current. When the voltage increases or decreases, the regulator decreases or increases the excitation current, regulating the voltage within the required limits.

The relay regulator itself is an electronic circuit with outputs to graphite brushes. It is installed both in the generator body itself next to the brushes, and outside it, and then the brushes are attached to the brush holder.

Reasons why the generator does not charge the battery

If the battery discharge indicator lights up in the instrument cluster, it means that current is not flowing from the generator to the on-board network and the battery's energy reserves are being consumed. Once the battery is discharged to its minimum value, the engine management system will stop working and the engine will stall. Let's look at the main reasons why charging from the generator to the battery does not occur.

A car has two power sources: a battery (battery) and a generator. The battery is used when starting the engine (to power the starter), as well as for other consumers when the engine is not running. After starting the engine, the main source of current is the generator. It supplies current to all consumers, including the ignition system, and charges the battery.

How long can you drive without a battery-powered generator?

To save battery energy, turn off unnecessary electricity consumers: audio system, heated seats, etc. Also try not to stop and start the engine unless necessary. Under normal conditions, a fully charged battery in the absence of charging current lasts for approximately one hour of driving. See experiment with Lada Largus.

How to find the reason why the generator does not charge the battery

:

1. Check to see if the accessory drive belt (or alternator belt) is broken. If the belt is intact, check its tension.

2. If the belt tension is normal, but the warning light is still on, check that the wiring harness block and the positive wire terminal are securely connected to the generator. Please note that wires may be broken or broken within the insulation.

3. Check the reliability of the wire connections to the battery terminals.

4. Check the integrity of the generator fuse in the engine compartment mounting block. Replace the blown fuse if necessary.

If, after all the measures taken, the charging lamp continues to light up while the engine is running, then most likely the generator is faulty (for example, the voltage regulator is faulty). We told you how to check the generator earlier.

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Generator malfunctions - signs, diagnostics, causes, testing

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Malfunctions of vehicle electrical equipment are very common and occupy one of the leading places in the list of breakdowns. They can be roughly divided into faults of power sources (batteries, generators) and faults of consumers (optics, ignition, climate, etc.). The main sources of power for a vehicle are batteries and generators . The malfunction of each of them leads to a general malfunction of the car and its operation in abnormal modes, or even to immobilization of the car.

In the electrical equipment of a car, the battery and generator work in an inextricable tandem. If one fails, after a while the other will also fail. For example, a damaged battery leads to an increase in the charging current of the generator. And this entails a malfunction of the rectifier (diode bridge). In turn, if the voltage regulator supplied from the generator malfunctions, the charging current may increase, which will inevitably lead to systematic recharging of the battery, “boil-off” of the electrolyte and rapid destruction.

Reasons for Priora battery not charging

Hello everyone, I have this problem: on my way home from work, the charger disappeared, it was raining and there were quite deep puddles. As soon as the “battery light” came on, I immediately stopped and turned it off, looked at the generator - it was dry, the belt was in place and tensioned as it should.

I arrived at the garage and spent a long time fooling around with a book that says: Check fuse F1 under the steering column, but for some reason I don’t have it there at all. In short, I checked all the fuses - everything is fine.

I took off the generator, examined it, but didn’t really notice anything. Guys, tell me why this happened, I’m no stranger to electrics.

If a battery that is more than 5-7 years old is not charging , then the answer to the question is: “ why ?” most likely lies on the surface. After all, any battery has its own service life and over time loses some of its basic performance characteristics. But what if the battery lasted no more than 2 or 3 years, or even less? Where then should we look for reasons why the battery does not want to charge? Moreover, this situation occurs not only when recharging from a generator in a car, but even when it is replenished from a charger. Answers must be sought depending on the situation by performing a series of checks followed by procedures aimed at eliminating the problem.

Most often, you can expect 5 main reasons that manifest themselves in eight different situations:

Removal and installation instructions

As practice shows, the main reason why a unit fails is the connection of various electronic devices to the car’s on-board network. Many energy consumers need high voltage generators. Therefore, when purchasing a node, you need to consider how many devices will connect to it. If you take a 115A or 120A mechanism, this will be the most reasonable choice for cars “stuffed” with electronics.

Find out more about dismantling and installation below:

1. To perform the work, you will need a 13 key. First of all, you need to disconnect the battery.
2. In accordance with the operating instructions, dismantle the mechanism drive belt. After this, you can disconnect the wiring block from the D+ connector on the device.
3. Then you will need to move the rubber boot and unscrew the nut. Having done this, you can disconnect the wiring from the terminal pin.
4. After these steps, unscrew the nut of the screw of the lower clamp of the assembly to the special bracket. The nut itself can be removed with a spacer sleeve.
5. Next, remove the retaining screw. After this, the nut securing the assembly to the upper mount can be completely unscrewed. The adjusting screw also needs to be completely unscrewed, then remove the tension bar.
6. After completing all these steps, you can remove the mechanism from the machine. The unit is being repaired with the replacement of all necessary elements. After the repair is completed, the generator can be put back in place; the installation procedure looks identical to dismantling, only all steps are repeated in reverse order. After installation, it is necessary to adjust the strap tension. If the belt is not adjusted, this may cause the mechanism to malfunction. After all the actions completing the repair procedure, the tension bar fixation nut must be tightened to a torque of 20 Nm.

The main reasons why the battery may not charge

To understand in detail all the possible malfunctions due to which the car battery does not charge, first of all, clearly define the situation:

In general, when the battery refuses to charge, the following options are allowed:

• plate sulfation;
• destruction of plates;
• terminal oxidation;
• decrease in electrolyte density;
• short circuit

But you shouldn’t worry so much right away, everything is not always so bad, especially if such a problem arose while driving (indicated by a red battery light). It is necessary to consider special cases in which the car battery does not take charge only from the generator or from the charger as well.

The charging system of a car battery contains a number of external devices, on which the performance of the battery itself and the charging process can also greatly depend. To check all external devices, you will need a multimeter (tester); it will allow you to measure the voltage at the battery terminals under different engine operating modes. You will also have to check the generator. But this is only true when the battery does not want to be charged from the generator. If the battery does not take a charge from the charger, then it is advisable to also have a hydrometer to check the density of the electrolyte.

Control of other elements of the charging system

To determine why the alternator is overcharging or not charging the battery at all, you may need a multimeter. Using the tester, you can measure the battery voltage in two modes. With the engine turned off, the charge parameter should be in the range of 12.5-12.7 volts, and with the engine running - 13.5-14 volts. If these indicators are lower when the internal combustion engine is switched on, this may indicate problems in the operation of the diode bridge or brush assembly. By the way, brushes can wear out, so they need to be changed periodically.

If the cause of overcharging or lack of charging is a relay, it can be eliminated by replacing or resoldering the diodes. If the diodes will be soldered, it is necessary to select devices that are closest in technical characteristics. Otherwise they may overheat.

How do you know if the battery is not charging?

The battery does not charge from the generator . The first signal that the battery is not charging is a lit red battery light! And to make sure of this, you can check the battery voltage. There should be 12.5... 12.7 V at the battery terminals. When the engine is started, the voltage will rise to 13.5... 14.5 V. With consumers turned on and the engine running, the voltmeter readings, as a rule, jump from 13.8 to 14.3V. No changes on the voltmeter display or when the indicator goes beyond 14.6V indicates a generator malfunction.

When the generator runs but does not charge the battery, the cause may lie in the battery itself. Apparently it was completely discharged, which is called “zero”, then the voltage is less than 11V. A zero charge may occur due to sulfation of the plates. If the sulfation is insignificant, you can try to eliminate it. And try charging using a jump charger.

How to understand that the battery is not charging from the charger ? When a battery is connected to a charger, evidence that it is fully charging is a constantly changing voltage at the terminals and jumping voltage or current readings on the device dial. If there is no charge, there will be no change. When the battery is not being charged from an Orion type charger (which has only indicators), you can very often observe a buzzing and rare blinking of the “current” light.

How to determine the cause

Diagnostics of the circuit in the generator-battery section is usually carried out by exclusion.

You should prepare the following set of tools in advance:

• multimeter;
• load car light bulb;
• screwdrivers with flat and Phillips tips;
• pliers;
• fine-grained sandpaper.

We advise you to start by inspecting the condition of the battery: whether the terminals are oxidized, whether the battery cover is dirty, whether there are swellings or cracks on the body. The battery voltage is checked with a multimeter with the engine not running.

It is strictly not recommended to remove the battery terminal while the engine is running: a sudden surge in voltage can cause failure of the car's electronic components.

The device readings should be in the range of 11.9–12.7 V. If there are traces of oxidation on the battery terminals, they can be removed with sandpaper. It is recommended to treat the terminals with an anti-corrosion compound after this operation.

If there are no complaints about the battery, the next step is a visual inspection of the wiring in the area from the battery to the generator. If there is no visible damage, it is necessary to test the wires for internal breaks.

The functionality of the generator itself is checked at idle engine speed using the following algorithm:

• measurements carried out using a multimeter are carried out with consumers turned off;
• first of all, turn on the low beam of the headlights along with the air conditioner and measure the voltage at the output terminals of the generator, it should be at least 13.5 V;
• without this load, the generator should output 14.0–14.7 V;
• if there is extraneous noise, we can conclude that the bearings are worn;
• the serviceability of the relay regulator is also checked by a tester; a voltage of at least 14.5 V must be output at its output terminals;
• The tension of the drive belt is checked with the engine off by pressing on it with your thumb. If the belt bends by more than one and a half centimeters, this indicates its critical weakening.

If no problems are identified in the operation of the generator, in order to determine why the Priora battery is not charging, you need to start testing all sections of the electrical circuit using the ringing method (including the wires going to the ignition switch, dashboard, fuse box).

What can you do when your car battery is not charging?

The first step is to find out the cause, and only then take action to eliminate it. To do this, you need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals, check the level, density of the electrolyte and its color. It is also, of course, necessary to visually inspect the surface of the battery, the car wiring, and also to determine the current leakage.

Let us consider in detail the possible consequences of each of the reasons for poor battery performance, and also determine what needs to be done in a given situation:

Oxidation of contact terminals

both prevents good contact and contributes to current leakage. As a result, we get a quick discharge or unstable/absent charging from the generator. There is only one way out - check not only the condition of the battery terminals, but also the condition of the generator and the ground of the car. Heavily oxidized terminals can be removed by cleaning and lubricating the oxides.

Generator malfunction

(belt, regulator, diodes).

Belt break

you would probably notice, but the fact is that even a slight loosening of the tension can contribute to slippage on the pulley (as well as oil ingress). Therefore, when powerful consumers are turned on, the light on the panel may light up and the battery will discharge, and on a cold engine a squeaking sound can often be heard from under the hood. This problem can be eliminated either by tensioning or replacement.

Diodes

in normal condition they should pass current only in one direction; checking with a multimeter will make it possible to identify the faulty one, although often they simply change the entire diode bridge. Improperly functioning diodes can cause both undercharging and overcharging of the battery.

When the diodes are normal, but they get very hot during operation, it means the battery is being overcharged. The regulator is responsible for the voltage . It is better to change it immediately. In a situation where the battery is not fully charged, you need to pay attention to the generator brushes (after all, they wear out over time).

During deep discharge

, as well as with a slight shedding of the active mass, when the battery does not want to be charged not only in the car from the generator, but even the charger does not see it, you can reverse the polarity or give a high voltage so that it grabs the charge.

This procedure is often carried out with AVG batteries when there is less than 10 volts at its terminals. Reversing the polarity allows you to start a completely discharged battery. But this will only help if the poles on the battery have actually changed, otherwise it can only cause harm.

The change of battery poles (both lead-acid and calcium) occurs in the event of a complete discharge, when the voltage of some battery banks, which have a smaller capacity than the others connected in series, decreases much faster than others. And having reached zero, as the discharge continues, the current for the lagging elements becomes charging, but it charges them in the opposite direction and then the positive pole becomes minus, and the negative pole becomes positive. Therefore, by briefly changing the charger terminals, such a battery can be brought back to life.

But remember that if the polarity change on the battery does not occur, then if there is no protection on the charger from such a situation, the battery can be permanently damaged.

This process will not work if:

• the plates crumbled and the electrolyte became cloudy;
• one of the cans is closed;
• There is no required electrolyte density in the battery.

The polarity reversal method works well for desulfation, but only no more than 80-90% of the capacity can be restored. The success of this procedure lies in the thick plates; the thin ones are completely destroyed.

Self-test of the generator

The easiest way is to check the fuse. If it is in good condition, the generator and its location are inspected. The free rotation of the rotor, the integrity of the belt, wires, and housing are checked. If nothing arouses suspicion, the brushes and slip rings are checked. During operation, the brushes inevitably wear out, they can become jammed, skewed, and the grooves of the slip rings become clogged with graphite dust. A clear sign of this is excessive sparking.

There are frequent cases of complete wear or failure of both bearings and stator failure.

The most common mechanical problem with a generator is bearing wear. A sign of this malfunction is a howling or whistling sound when the unit is operating. Of course, the bearings must be replaced immediately or tried to be restored by cleaning and lubrication. Loose drive belt tension can also cause poor generator performance. One of the signs may be a high-pitched whistle from under the hood when the car accelerates or accelerates.

To check the rotor field winding for short-circuited turns or breaks, you need to connect a multimeter, switched to resistance measurement mode, to both contact rings of the generator. Normal resistance is from 1.8 to 5 ohms. The readings below indicate the presence of a short circuit in the turns; above – direct winding break.

To check the stator windings for ground fault, they need to be disconnected from the rectifier unit. If the resistance readings given by the multimeter are infinitely large, there is no doubt that there is no contact between the stator windings and the housing (“ground”).

To check the diodes in the rectifier block, use a multimeter (after completely disconnecting it from the stator windings). The test mode is “diode test”. The positive probe is connected to the plus or minus of the rectifier, and the negative probe is connected to the phase terminal. After this, the probes are swapped. If the values ​​of the multimeter readings differ greatly from the previous ones, the diode is working; if they do not differ, it is faulty. Another sign indicating the imminent “death” of the generator diode bridge is oxidation of the contacts, and the reason for this is overheating of the radiator.

Causes of malfunction of starter car batteries

The service life of a battery discharged by 25% is significantly reduced if:

• malfunction of the generator and voltage regulator;
• starter malfunctions leading to an increase in current or an increase in the number of attempts to start the engine;
• oxidation of power wire terminals;
• constant use of powerful consumers during long periods of idle time in traffic jams;
• repeated cranking of the crankshaft with the starter on short trips.

A reduced electrolyte level during battery operation is also a key reason for rapid battery failure. Therefore, the cause of the malfunction may be:

• Rare electrolyte level monitoring. In summer, checking should be done more often because high temperatures promote rapid evaporation of water;
• Intensive use of the car (when the mileage is more than 60 thousand km per year). Requires checking the electrolyte level at least every 3-4 thousand kilometers.

Common battery problems:

• short circuit of battery electrodes/plates;
• mechanical or chemical damage to the battery plates;
• violation of the tightness of battery cans - cracks in the battery case as a result of impacts or improper installation;
• chemical oxidation of the battery terminals. The main causes of these malfunctions are:
• gross violations of operating rules;
• expiration of the product's service life;
• various manufacturing defects.

It is very useful for a motorist to know the main causes of generator malfunctions , how to eliminate them, as well as preventive measures to prevent breakdowns.

All generators are divided into alternating and direct current generators. Modern passenger vehicles are equipped with alternating current generators with a built-in diode bridge (rectifier). The latter is necessary to convert current into direct current, on which the vehicle's electrical consumers operate. The rectifier, as a rule, is located in the cover or housing of the generator and is integral with the latter.

All electrical appliances of the car are designed for a strictly defined operating voltage range. As a rule, operating voltages are in the range of 13.8–14.8 V. Due to the fact that the generator is “tied” with a belt to the engine crankshaft, it will work differently . It is for smoothing and regulating the output current that the relay-voltage regulator is designed, playing the role of a stabilizer and preventing both surges and dips in the operating voltage. Modern generators are equipped with built-in integrated voltage regulators, colloquially referred to as “chocolate” or “tablet”.

It is already clear that any generator is a rather complex unit, extremely important for any car.

Graphic representation of the situation when the battery is not charging. Infographics

To enlarge the image, just click on the picture.

By the way, problems with charging on all those cars that I personally had to use occurred extremely rarely. For the most part, this began after the 90-100 thousand mileage mark. Priora is no exception. If on a relatively new car, when the new generator and all other components are in perfect order, these problems are practically eliminated, then on a used car, problems with battery charging can occur quite often.

The battery is low

It is always recommended to start checking from the engine compartment. On vehicles similar to Mercedes-Benz, the battery is located in the trunk. Therefore, in this case we need to move back. The task is to check the battery charge and find the cause of the problem. As a rule, in such cases the headlights shine dimly and the sound signal is weak.

Deep discharges of the battery should not be allowed, as this leads to sulfation of the plates and complete destruction of the battery.

There are several ways to check your car's battery charge using various tools. Let us give as an example a variant with a load fork test, which is considered the most accurate:

• the plug is connected to the battery terminals and supplies short circuit voltage - this simulates the operation of the starter;
• Readings are read on the instrument scale, which determine how much the charge drops when starting the car.

You can verify that the battery is 100% charged (that it is not the cause) by the load plug indicator of 10.2 V. On the contrary, if the voltage drops below 7.8 volts, this will indicate a complete, zero percent charge. Other battery charge levels are determined in the same manner: 9.6 V - 75%, 9 V - 50%, 8.4 V - 25%.

Why is there no battery charging and where to look for it?

In fact, there are a great many reasons why charging may fail. And most of them are connected with the most important unit in this regard - the generator. Let's look at the main ones that can most often occur.

1. Wear of generator brushes on Priora. As mentioned above, when all the parts are still new and without wear, then such malfunctions essentially cannot exist. But when the mark is 90-100 thousand km. has already been overcome, the first calls begin. And the most common reason for the battery not charging is excessive wear of the brushes. This issue can be easily resolved - replace them with new ones. The price of the assembled part is about 350 rubles.
2. The second reason can also be compared with brushes, since it is with this part that they come into contact during operation. These are the armature slip rings. It is worth removing the plastic cover of the generator and looking at the contact points of the brushes and rings to understand how much wear these parts have had! It is not always possible to carry out this replacement on your own, but almost any electrician will do it in half an hour.
3. Failure of the generator diode bridge. Even if one of the diodes breaks through, there will be poor charging, which will lead to a constant discharge of the battery. In this case, the rectifier unit is replaced.
4. Failure of the regulator relay - it is replaced as an assembly with the brush assembly, while the brushes themselves can be replaced separately (again, with the help of a good electrician).
5. More serious problems occur with parts such as the stator, rotor, bearings, etc., which are actually much less common than the above cases.

Insufficient contact

Please note that if the brushes and rings on the rotor become oily or dirty, contact may be lost for a short time or permanently. It is possible that the springs in the brush holder have deteriorated. With their help, the brushes are pressed against the rings on the rotor. Consequently, the total resistance of the excitation winding increases, or the electrical circuit is completely broken. In this case, the generator gives a weak charge or stops working altogether. To get rid of this problem, sometimes you can simply wipe the brushes with a lint-free cloth. It is advisable to moisten it in solvent or gasoline. Of course, if the brushes are very worn, they need to be replaced. In the event that oxidation of the rings has occurred, it is necessary to clean them using glass sandpaper.

Symptoms of loss of battery charging on a Priora

The very first thing that many people pay attention to is that the battery charging light on the dashboard came on. If you have a multimeter at hand, you can measure the output charging current by connecting the contacts to the “+” and “-” terminals, respectively. If even without a load the device readings are less than 13 Volts, this indicates that there are certain problems with charging.

Of course, it is possible (although it is highly not recommended) to remove the “-” terminal from the battery while the engine is running, thereby checking the functionality of the generator. If the engine stalls, this will indicate that there is actually no charging, and accordingly, the generator is faulty.

Also, the charging lamp may glow at half-glow, which also indicates insufficient charging current. If one of the symptoms listed above occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the generator and its parts. If necessary, replace them with new ones. If you have anything to add to this article, you can comment below.

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Trouble-shooting

If, during diagnostics, we were able to establish the reason why the battery lack of charge light comes on, you can often fix the problem yourself. Let's look at the most common ways to solve the problem:

1. To begin with, the discharged battery must be charged using an external charger. If there is a ROM, try starting the engine using it. If the light went out, the reason was precisely the dead battery.
2. Oxidized contacts are cleaned with sandpaper. After wiping them with a rag, the contacts are securely tightened, having previously been treated with an anti-corrosion agent.
3. When the belt is loose, tighten it using the adjusting screws. If belt defects (delaminations, breaks) are detected, it must be replaced.
4. If an open circuit is detected at the diagnostic stage, the damaged wire is replaced with a intact one, taking into account its load.
5. The blown fuse is replaced with a new one. Sometimes the reason for the lack of charging of the battery lies in the weakening of the fuse contact, which is solved by installing it in the seat.

If the cause of the battery indicator light has been eliminated, you should start the engine and let it idle for about 10 minutes, then measure the voltage at the generator output terminals.

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Fuse

The element that protects the battery indicator (lamp) is usually responsible for other consumers on many cars. Therefore, its malfunction can be easily identified if you also check the operation of these same powered elements - as a rule, other control signals on the device go out at the same time. If they are in working order, then there is no point in climbing into the fuse box.

There is usually no need to perform resistance diagnostics. It is enough to replace the removed fuse with a known good element. If the battery charging light comes on, the fault has been proven. However, in some cases (for example, you don’t have a new fusible protector at hand), it’s worth doing the following trick:

• measure the current on the fuse legs - done with a multimeter set to 20 V (one probe for ground, the second for the leg);
• check how voltage indicators change in the entire electrical circuit (current surges, short circuits);
• test resistance parameters.

The relay regulator (a charging relay that is installed on some cars to adjust the current of the on-board network and battery in a given range of 13.8-14.5 V) can also present considerable problems. Recently produced cars have become equipped with extremely unreliable devices. Parts quickly fail, apparently due to a well-known defect of Chinese production.

Remote charging relay

So, if the continuity described above showed that the problem is likely in a faulty voltage regulator (relay), you need to make sure of this. To do this, they again use a test lamp with a clamp, but the latter is connected to the battery positive. The second probe of the tester touches the terminals of the same block (control and pre-excitation line) that is on the generator (there are also remote ones). Naturally, the plug is removed before this.

If the device light does not light up, this proves that there is a malfunction in the relay regulator (most likely an internal break). With such a defect, there is nothing left but to replace the voltage regulator.

Diagnostics

The search for a faulty element begins with checking the battery charge level. To measure the voltage at the terminals, use a multimeter or voltmeter. It is necessary to take readings in two modes:

• without load with the ignition turned off and the minus terminal removed;
• under load: by turning the key in the ignition and turning on any consumer (low beam headlights, air conditioning).

The multimeter probes in voltmeter mode are connected in series: the positive terminal is a red contact, the negative terminal is a black one. The normal value of the battery voltage at rest with a 100% charge is 12.05 - 12.6 Volts.

The test under load should be carried out carefully, observing safety precautions: when turning on the ignition, do not touch the power terminal and cable with your bare hands. The multimeter readings are taken twice: when the engine starts, and after 20-30 seconds. When starting the engine, the power current can reach a peak of up to 670 Amps, depending on the power of the unit. The battery supplies a significant part of the energy to the starter for the initial crankshaft rotation - at this moment the voltage at the terminals drops. A value of 8-9 V is considered normal; if the drop during startup is critical and reaches 6 V, then the battery is completely faulty.

After measuring under load, the voltage on a working battery is restored within 15-30 seconds. It is measured again, determining the charge capacity. Next, be sure to check the oxides on the terminals, the condition of the power cable for damage to the insulation, and the reliability of fastening the ground wire to ground.

A blown fuse in the mounting block is diagnosed by the condition of the fusible link. In order to determine which of them is responsible for the battery indicator light, you need to use the electrical diagram in the technical description of the car (the location differs depending on the brand of the power unit). The fuse is included in the common circuit and controls several consumers: all indications on the dashboard, cigarette lighter illumination, interior light. Typically this is socket F3, rated at 10 Amps.

The electrical circuit is first inspected, checking the contact fastenings and breaks. If no visible violations could be detected, then the multimeter is turned on in ohmmeter mode and each section is “ringed” separately: from the battery to the generator, from the rotor terminals to the fuse mounting block, the ignition coil and the instrument panel (contacts of the control light).

A faulty relay in the mounting block is tested for voltage with the on-board power supply turned on. The voltage at the relay output must be at least 9 Volts.

Additional information: the location diagram of the battery light relay in the circuit is indicated on the electrical diagram of the unit: in domestic cars (VAZ, GAZ) fuses and relays are mounted in two rows.

The diode bridge and the generator voltage regulator relay are checked with the engine running: at idle, the unit speed is increased to 4000 rpm and the voltage is measured with a multimeter at the rotor terminals. If the indicator is around 14.5 Volts, then the generator components are working properly.

Often the reason for the lack of battery indication is a minor reason: a burnt out light bulb or a poorly secured fuse in the socket. To eliminate the violation, it is enough to move the fallen fuse and put it in place in the socket until it stops.

If the failed element is not installed and the warning light does not light up, then computer diagnostics are carried out, reading error codes in the ECM. To do this, use the ODB-2 connector (under the steering column), a computer or laptop with the program installed, or a special scanner. All errors are recorded by the system in the ECU (electronic control unit) memory log; the structure of the codes is given in the technical description of the car - they are different for all models. Using a scanner or laptop, they decipher the system error and determine the cause of the failure. This diagnostic method provides a complete picture of the condition of all components over the entire period of their operation.

The dashboard of a modern car is filled with all kinds of indicators and lights. Some of them are emergency, others are warning, others are simply service, and their operation should not cause any concern.

Among the lamps that are activated when the ignition is turned on is the battery indicator. If it doesn't light up, it's not a very good sign. There is a reason to conduct a diagnosis and determine why this is happening.

This is a typical situation that many motorists who own cars of different brands, models and ages have encountered.

How to determine that the network voltage is insufficient?

The easiest way is to get information from the on-board computer. Most often, even inexpensive computers have a function for measuring this parameter. Most devices have a built-in alarm function for problems with the on-board electrical network. For example, if the voltage drops below 12V, a certain signal is triggered and a message is displayed with various content options. The following problems may also occur during the process:

• a decrease in the activity of the instrument panel lighting, as well as various light blocks, including dimensions, brake lights, turn signals, low and high beams, they dim;
• at idle speed the car begins to choke and even stalls, this is due to a lack of voltage, a fatal drop in the entire system occurs, fuel is not supplied;
• the radio tape recorder fails, it can simply turn off and then turn on itself if its connection is configured correctly, this happens when there is a power surge in the lower zones;
• when you turn on the interior blower fan or air conditioner, there is a noticeable effect on the engine, the speed drops, there is an effect on the quality of lighting by the optics;
• Voltage fluctuations are noticeable during warm-up and during normal idling of the engine, this can be seen from the flickering of lights and uneven engine operation, floating speed.

These are the kind of troubles that can make you think about problems in the electrical network. These are only visible problems, but in reality this trouble has a much wider range of influence. The reliability of the fuel pump, the normal functioning of the on-board computer and the absence of errors with it depend on the quality of the voltage in the network. Let's figure out exactly which components can lead to such troubles in your car.

What do you need to remember?

We looked at the main reasons for the battery not charging from the generator. According to statistics, most motorists with such problems turn to service. This is normal, but the information will be useful to you in order to understand the cause of the breakdown on the spot. In addition, if you are aware of the situation, it will be difficult for cunning car service employees to extract extra money from you for repairs.

It’s one thing when you tell the mechanic, “I need to tighten the alternator belt,” and quite another, “I’ve got something broken there.” For this you will be charged twice as much.

And finally, what you need to remember when using the battery.

Periodically, with the engine running, check the voltage at the battery terminals. This value may differ on different cars, but should fall within the range of 13-14.4 volts. If the voltage is higher, then the process of hydrolysis of water with the release of hydrogen will actively occur in the battery. If the value is less, the battery will not charge normally when traveling.

In both cases, you need to contact a specialist to fix the problem.

That's all on this issue. We wish you good luck on the roads! And we are waiting for your comments on the article! Return to content

My alternator belt is constantly squealing. Too lazy to pull it up. That's how I go. But the battery seems to be charging normally. Ugh, ugh

Driving without a seat belt is like walking with your pants down. Damn quitters!

Recently the alternator belt broke. It was good at home. I drove on the battery for only 10 minutes. It was almost completely dead.

It infuriates such smart morons who, after reading such articles, come “I need to tighten my belt” or “I need to clean the injectors”, and then “oh it didn’t help, what should I do, I don’t want to pay, there are no changes”, do a diagnosis, then decide to do it or not, stars.

Help, the battery on the Ford Skate is not charging, everything checked the generator, the working belt is normal, the light on the battery is on and is not charging

The battery has failed to charge (the lamp comes on). I got to the market and went about my business. The car cooled down, started up, charging appeared, some time after warming up, the battery light came on again (the brushes are on their last legs, and when they heat up, the gaps change). Definitely BRUSHES on the generator. Moreover, they departed without repair for almost 200 thousand km. not counting how much I was stuck in traffic jams. (new gen. 17,000 RUR VALEO) (relay regulator 4,000 RUR) Replaced the brushes, the problem disappeared. Many people write on forums that they use brushes from just about anything, from an angle grinder, etc. This is not entirely correct and will not last long. There are three types of brushes: carbon brushes - designed for 220 volts and a small amperage, copper-plated carbon brushes - used in battery tools (amperage is not large up to 15A), copper-graphite brushes - these are what you need for a car, you have a battery of 50-60 amperes. Finding such brushes is problematic, so you buy a relay regulator from VOLGA and resolder the brushes (the price is 300 rubles). I took a different route, bought a jumper from a classic Lada for 60 rubles (two brushes in a plastic case) and unsoldered the brushes, but unlike the classic, unlike the Volga, they are a little thicker, which is easily adjusted with sandpaper.

Vova, it’s very similar if you check the serviceability of the generator when it’s cold.

One day, on the way to the dacha, the generator broke down, I drove to the dacha and returned home. A total of 235 km. Naturally without music, air conditioning and high beams.

By the way, problems with charging on all those cars that I personally had to use occurred extremely rarely. For the most part, this began after the 90-100 thousand mileage mark. Priora is no exception. If on a relatively new car, when the new generator and all other components are in perfect order, these problems are practically eliminated, then on a used car, problems with battery charging can occur quite often.

Possible solution to the problem with sporadic lack of charging from the generator.

After a planned overhaul of the generator with the installation of RN VTN 9454.3702, charging problems began: sometimes you turn on the ignition - the charging lamp does not light up
and when the engine starts, the generator does not charge. Then, while driving, charging appeared. The generator could start working in a minute, or it could take 15...20 minutes. There were cases when I actually got to the parking lot on an Akka. It was very infuriating.