Replacing the wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107 step by step and with photos

In the previously published article “It’s time to replace the rear axle bearing or...”, a way to eliminate knocking in the rear axle axle in VAZ 2101, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107 was considered, and it also said, I quote: “I would like to note right away that independently you can remove or change the axle shaft, as well as eliminate the bearing play in the seat. But replacing the bearing itself requires special tools and certain skills.” To this we can add that in all repair and maintenance manuals for the VAZ 2101 car and their modifications you will not be able to find a detailed description of how to replace the axle bearing with your own hands. Instead of instructions in these manuals, you will only find recommendations, such as: “replacing the axle bearing must be carried out at a specialized service station” or “replacing the lock ring and bearing on your own is not recommended.” And, of course, all this is true. But if you are on this site and reading these lines, it means that you have a great desire to carry out repairs on your own. And this article will be not only useful for you, but also necessary. Since the whole process of replacing an axle bearing is quite complex and time-consuming, and it won’t be possible to cope with it “quickly”! I would really like to know if you decided to repair the axle shaft after reading the article or left this work to specialists.

I will not describe in detail the process of removing the wheel, drum and axle shaft in this article (you can get information on this topic by clicking on the link). In short, just the important points:

Release the handbrake cable (necessary to facilitate removal of the brake drum). The brake drum itself can “stick” to the axle shaft and can be knocked down using a wooden attachment (see photo 1). Precisely wooden, since using a metal attachment can damage the brake drum. If there is no impact puller, you can pull out the axle shaft using the removed wheel. We screw the back side of the wheel to the axle shaft (two bolts will be enough) and knock out the axle shaft with sharp blows. In photographs 2 and 3 you can see examples of a “dead” bearing and axle shaft seal. Next, we collect the necessary tools and equipment to replace the bearing.

1. Hammer, chisel and it’s very good if you have an angle grinder. 2. Metal pipe with an internal diameter of 32 mm and a length of at least 80 cm. 3. Socket head at “32”. 4. 50-100 grams of engine or transmission oil, “working off” is also suitable. Litol-24 will also come in handy. 5. Gas or gasoline burner, in general, we think of a fire source on which you will have to heat the locking ring. There is no way to do without the fifth point, since the locking ring is pressed onto the axle shaft only after heating.

Remove the locking ring and bearing:

Using a chisel, cut the locking ring (photo 4) or, if you have a grinder, cut off part of the ring (photo 5). It is advisable to cut the ring, as shown in the photo. And the axle shaft will remain intact and the weakened ring can be easily knocked off. When the locking ring is removed, you can try to remove the bearing, the method is shown in photo 6. If you don’t succeed in knocking down the bearing, you will have to pick up the grinder again and use it to remove the bearing (don’t forget about safety glasses). After removing the bearing, remove traces of dirt and oil from the axle shaft. Install the bearing and locking ring:

Signs of a faulty VAZ 2107 axle bearing

When operating the vehicle, the axle bearing itself may wear out or its seat may break. Any bearing malfunction is easily determined by a number of signs:

  • the buzzing of the rear axle increasing with speed, which can turn into a creaking or crackling sound;
  • rear wheel play (you can check it by jacking up the car and rocking the wheel with your hands);
  • loss of balls when the separator is destroyed (in this case, the axle shaft may move out of its seat while moving);
  • jamming of the rear axle when the wheels stop rotating (if a wheel jams at speed, this can cause a serious accident).

The design of the bearing allows for a long mileage of the part, but material defects or excessive loads while driving on bad roads can lead to rapid wear of the unit. In this case, it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2107 axle bearing.

Coolant pump bearings

Coolant pump bearings are ball, radial, double row, sealed.

Coolant pump bearing designation:

  • According to VAZ classification - 2101-1307027 or 2101-1307027-0];
  • According to the bearing plant classification - 6-330902С17 or 6-330902 EC 17.

Toothed belt tensioner bearing dimensions:

  • External diameter (D) - 30 mm;
  • Internal diameter (d) - 16 mm;
  • Height (width) (B) - 115 mm.
  • The width of the outer race (C) is 39 mm.

Replacing the VAZ 2107 axle bearing

To carry out the work, there is no need to lift the car on a lift or drive it into a viewing hole. Replacing a VAZ 2107 axle shaft or bearing is performed as follows:

  • jack up, unscrew and remove the rear wheel;
  • remove the brake drum;
  • remove the brake pads using pliers to remove the springs;
  • using a 17mm socket wrench, unscrew the axle shaft;
  • remove the axle shaft from the seat (for this you need to use a wrench, inserting it between the rear part of the axle shaft and the brake cylinder and using it as a lever);

  • remove the old axle bearing;

Steering gear worm bearings

Bearing of the upper support of the steering gear worm

Bearing of the upper support of the steering gear worm, ball, angular contact

Designation of the upper support of the steering gear worm:

  • According to VAZ classification - 2101-3401122 or 2101-3401129;
  • According to the bearing plant classification - 996905-01 or 996805-97.

Dimensions of the upper support of the steering gear worm:

  • External diameter (D) - 47 mm;
  • Internal diameter (d) - 28 mm;
  • Height (width) (B) - 13.40 mm.

Steering worm lower bearing (lower support)

Bearing of the lower support of the steering gear worm, ball, angular contact

Designation of the lower support of the steering gear worm:

  • According to VAZ classification - 2101-3401123 or 2101-3401129;
  • According to the bearing plant classification - 996905-01 or 996805-97.

Dimensions of the lower support of the steering gear worm:

  • External diameter (D) - 50 mm;
  • Internal diameter (d) - 28 mm;
  • Height (width) (B) - 20.20 mm.

Useful tips for replacing the VAZ 2107 axle bearing

When repairing a VAZ 2107 axle shaft, you must adhere to the following tips and rules:

To avoid damaging the axle shaft when cutting off the old bearing with a grinder, it is necessary to saw only the outer ring and the cage. It is enough to make several cuts on the inner ring, and then split it with chisels.

The new bearing is driven onto the axle shaft using a hammer. If you hit the bearing directly, there is a possibility of it being distorted or destroyed. Therefore, the bearing must be filled using a piece of pipe whose internal diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the axle shaft.

It is unacceptable to heat the bearing before seating it on the axle shaft. A heated bearing enlarges and fits into place more easily, but this may result in “annealing” of the metal, worsening its physical properties. As a result of annealing, the ductility of the metal increases and the hardness of the metal decreases.

Replacing a VAZ 2107 axle bearing is a rather complicated task, but quite doable in a garage. The main thing is not to damage the surface of the axle shaft when removing and installing the bearing. When installing a new bearing, be careful when using a hammer, as the steel from which the bearing parts are made is very brittle. Otherwise, the procedure does not contain complex operations that require special qualifications and equipment.

The problem that will be discussed today is quite common on VAZ 2107 cars. This is the failure of the axle bearing. Replacing it at a car service center is very expensive, but it is possible to carry out this procedure yourself. We will talk about how to do this correctly in this article.

Toothed belt tensioner bearings

The bearings of the toothed belt tensioning mechanism are ball, angular contact, double-row, closed. There are 2 pieces installed on the car.

Names of bearings of the toothed belt tensioning mechanism:

  • According to VAZ classification - 2105-1006124;
  • According to the bearing plant classification - R70-6120.

Toothed belt tensioner bearing dimensions:

  • External diameter D - 37 mm;
  • Internal diameter d - 25 mm;
  • Height h - 17 mm.

Purpose of the rear axle bearing

The axle shaft is the most important part of the drive (in this case, rear) axle of the VAZ 2107. The axle shaft itself rarely fails, but the bearing in which it is attached is the weak point of this design . The purpose of the part is simple: to ensure smooth and uniform rotation of the axle shaft in the rear axle while the car is moving. This part is located inside the bridge, immediately behind the brake drum. To see and change it, you will have to remove the axle shaft, remove the drum and brake pads from it. It is impossible to get to the bearing in any other way.


VAZ 2107 axle shaft bearing with retaining ring

Bearing Directory

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When there was a shortage of auto parts for foreign cars, auto specialists looked for a replacement among similar products only from a Russian manufacturer.

They do the same today, because... The cost of imported bearings and seals is very high. It also happens that you have to wait a long time for this part, and even then more than a month. Or even the car was discontinued from production altogether. This is where the Russian spare part comes in – the bearing. In this table I want to show the bearing sizes. This directory will help you find the right analogue for your size. Follow one rule when selecting a bearing - the quality of our bearing must match the quality of a foreign one. Otherwise you will have to change the bearing every month.

SEALS
Dimensions, mmApplicability, make, model of machineInstallation location
1687M. "Karpaty", "Delta"Clutch lever
25,1127M. "Ural"Pedal and gearshift lever
26138ZIL-4314Steering shaft
30157M. "Ural", "Dnepr"Camshaft
35157M. "Karpaty", "Delta"Crankshaft
30167VAZ-2108, "Oka"Gear selector rod
30167M. "Dnepr"Gearbox shift pedal
30177,5M. IZH-P, IZH-YuCrankshaft right
471710M. "Voskhod"Crankshaft right
34,8189Outboard motor "Neptune"
4018,58"Oka"Gearbox input shaft
35197M. "Minsk"Wheel hubs
3719,310VAZ-2101…-2107.-2121Steering shaft
32206M. "Voskhod"Kickstarter shaft
32207"Gazelle"Steering shaft
30208,5M. "Dnepr"Kickstarter shaft
352010"Volga", GAZ-3307Steering shaft
402010M. "Ural"Kickstarter shaft
Motorized stroller SZDRight crankshaft and fan
32217M. "Karpaty", "Delta"Gearbox secondary shaft
34,5226KamAZAngular gearbox RU
ZILScrew RU
UAZWorm shaft
35236ZAZ, LuAZ, Moskvich-412Steering shaft, bipod shaft
36,5236,5M. IZH-P, IZH-YuWheel hubs, kickstarter shaft IZH-P
40247"Tavria"Gearbox input shaft
42247AZLK-2141Gearbox input shaft
452410ZAZ, LuAZGearbox input shaft
462411ZIL-4314, KamAZPower steering pump
462413,5ZIL-4314Compressor
38258M. "Ural", "Dnepr"Wheel hubs
422510LuAZHalf shafts
M. “Tula”, “Ant”Wheel hubs
45258VAZ-2108Gearbox input shaft
52256,5M. IZH-YuIntermediate crankshaft
522510M. IZH-YuLeft crankshaft
522520M. IZH-PLeft crankshaft
62258M. YAVA-638Left crankshaft
38267ZAZ-968Half shaft
472610M. "Voskhod"Wheel hubs
40,25277M. "Voskhod"Gearbox secondary shaft
42287VAZ-2108, "0ka"Front crankshaft; camshaft
47288VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121Gearbox input shaft
4328,610VAZ-2101…-2107.-2121Bipod shaft
45308VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121Rear axle shaft
45307"Tavria"Front crankshaft
473010ZAZ (30 hp unit)Clutch housing
50309"Moskvich-412", IZHGearbox input shaft
52308M. YAVA-638Crankshaft right
523010M. YAVA-638Gearbox secondary shaft
45,1328M. "Ural", "Dnepr"Gearbox input shaft
50,53212UAZFront joint knuckle bridge
443310"Volga", UAZBipod shaft
49,2533,49"Moskvich-412", IZHGearbox extension, internal
49,2533,49,5"Moskvich-412", IZHGearbox extension, outer
483410GAZ-3307Bipod shaft
49,4348M. "Ural", "Dnepr"Cardan fork
Motorized stroller SZDDrive shaft, rear hub
48357"Volga", "Gazelle"Primary shaft 5-speed KP
52359M. IZH, SZDGearbox secondary shaft
57359VAZ-2108, "Oka"Drive axle shafts
6835,812VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121GP shank flange
6835,812"Niva" (reverse direction of rotation)Front gearbox and gearbox flanges
4836,78M. "Ural", "Dnepr"Gearbox secondary shaft
52387"Tavria", "Oka"Rear hubs
563810"Volga", "Gazelle"Gearbox extension
56407VAZ-2101…-2107Front hubs
58409ZAZ-968Front hubs
604010"Tavria"Drive axle shafts
56419AZLK-2141Actuator flanges
55,741,29"Moskvich-412", IZHRear axle shaft
Motorized stroller SZDFront hub
55,74210"Moskvich-408", -2138Front crankshaft
584210ZIL-4314Bipod shaft
624210"Moskvich-412", IZHFront crankshaft
624210LuAZ, ZAZ, SZDRear hubs (LuAZ-all)
624210ZIL-4314Gearbox input shaft
684210UAZGP and RK shank flanges
754210"Volga", "Gazelle"GP shank flange
65438"Moskvich-412", IZHFront hubs
705010M. "Ural"Crankshaft
76509,5GAZ-3307Gearbox secondary shaft
805010"Gazelle"Front hubs
725210"Volga"Axle shafts and hubs
825410GAZ-3307GP shank flange
70558"Volga", "Gazelle" (16-valve ENGINE)Front crankshaft
805510"Volga", UAZ, GAZFront crankshaft
7655,38KamAZBipod shaft
73,155610"Niva"Front hubs
825610ZAZ(Zol.s.)Front and rear crankshaft.
806010KamAZ
856010UAZWheel hubs
856012M. "Dnepr"Crankshaft
906410GAZ-3307Front hub
"Gazelle"Rear hub
906510ZAZ-968, LuAZCrankshaft rear, front
906510UAZ-469,-3151Wheel hubs
907010VAZ-2101…-2107, -2121, “Oka”, “Tavria”Rear crankshaft
927016KamAZShaft flanges KP, RK and GP
1007611"Moskvich-408", -2138Rear crankshaft
1008010VAZ-2108 and 16-valve engine. "Volga", "Gazelle" Rear crankshaft
1058210"Moskvich-412", IZHRear crankshaft
SINGLE ROW RADIAL BALL BEARINGS
Dimensions, mmSeriesApplicability, machine type, brand, modelInstallation location
DdB
553013106ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969Sun
106KamAZinjection pump
321210201VAZ, Oka, TavriaG
201KamAZ, KrAZinjection pump
201M. "Minsk"KP
M. "Karpaty", "Riga"PS, ZS
LM. "Breeze" gearbox
351511202"Tavria" ZAZ-1102tension roller
202KrAZ, MAZ, BelAZregulation, rpm
202M. "Minsk"PS, ZS
M. “Sunrise”, “Tula”, “Ant”KP
421712203"Volga", UAZ, GAZ-51, -53, GAZ-3307PV
203KrAZ, MAZVN
M. "Voskhod", "Tula"KP
"Ant", "Minsk", IZH
M. IZHPS, ZS
LM. "Breeze" gearbox
522515205"Oka"KP
205"Oka"balancer shafts
VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121KP
205LuAZPP
KamAZKP,RM
M. "Java", "Tula"ass star
M.IZHcrankshaft
205M. "Ural", "Dnepr"Gearbox, camshaft
Motorized stroller SZDZS
LM. "Vortex"
KrAZ, MAZInjection pump, ventilator
205ZIL-4314, -130, 131PV
623016206"Moskvich-403", -412, -2140, IZHKP
LiAZ, LAZvent, vent-r
206"Gazelle"PC
206MAZ-500RK
LuAZdrive shaft
206M. "Java"crankshaft
206M. "Dnepr"KR
723517207"Tavria" ZAZ-1102KD
207KamAZInjection pump, pump, compressor
ZIL, LIAZ, LAZ, KrAZ, MAZcompressor
ZIL-MMZ, GAZ-66KO
M. "Ant", motorized stroller SZDgearbox
207M. "Ural"crankshaft
M. "Ural", "Dnepr"main gear
UAZ-3151 (469)KR
804018208UAZKP
208GAZ-66, "Ural-4320"KO
"Ural-375", -4320winch
854519209"Niva"RK
209GAZ-53,-66,-3307KP
ZIL-MMZKO
M. "Dnepr"crankshaft
371212301ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969balancer .shaft
KrAZspeed control
421513302VAZ, Oka, TavriaG
302M. "Java"PS, ZS
522015304LuAZdrive shaft
M. IZH, “Tula”, “Ant”crankshaft
304KrAZfan pulley
M. "Ural", "Dnepr"KP
Motorized strollerPS and ventil-r
622517305VAZ-2108, ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969KP
"Volga", "Gazelle"5-speed KP
305"Niva"RK
"Tavria"KP
LiAZ, LAZG
KamAZhydraulic coupling, reinforced steering wheel, fuel injection pump VN
305KrAZ, MAZInjection pump and fan pulley
305M. "Java"crankshaft
LM. "Whirlwind", "Neptune"
305UAZKP
Motorized stroller SZDZS
723019306VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121KP
"Niva"KP, RK, PP
UAZKP, RK
306"Moskvich-412", -2140, IZH-412KP
M. "Java"crankshaft
GAZ-66KO
306VAZ-2101…-2107, “M.-412”, -2140PZ
803521307"Volga" GAZ-31029, "Gazelle"5-speed KP
GAZ-52,-53,-66KP
GAZ-66RK
307UAZRK
ZIL, "Ural-4320"KO
904023308"Volga" GAZ-24PZ
308"Volga" GAZ-31029, "Chaika"PZ
KrAZRK
308ZIL-130,-131,-4314KP
351514502VAZ-2101…-2107, 2121, M-2141PV
"Moskvich", "Volga", UAZ
IZH, GAZ, ZILG
401716503ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969G
522518505VAZ-2101…-2107*PC
804023508"Niva"PZ
GAZ-52 (PAZ, KAvZ based on GAZ-52)PC winch
471719603M-412, -2140, IZH-412VN
"Volga", UAZ, "Moskvich",
GAZ, IZH, ZIL, KAMAZG
401714703GAZ-24, UAZ, GAZ-52, -53, -66, ZIL-130, -4314, LiAZVN
753019706VAZ-2101…-2107, -2121, “Volga”, “Gazelle”KP
471715,5803GAZ-24, UAZ, GAZ-52, -53, -66, ZIL-130, -4314, LiAZVN
622517805M-2141, "Tavria"KP
Legend: VN - water pump; G - generator; ZS - rear hub; KD - differential box; KO - power take-off; Gearbox - gearbox; KR - wheel reducer; LM - outboard motor; M - motorcycle, moped; PV - input shaft; RZ - rear axle shaft; PC - cardan outboard bearing; PP - front axle shaft; PS - front hub; RK - transfer case; RKL - steering column; RM - steering mechanism; X - shank (in the main pair).
SINGLE ROW TAPED ROLLER BEARINGS
Dimensions, mmSeriesApplicability, machine type, brand, modelInstallation location
DdB
684013105"Niva"PS
M-2141KD
472015,5204"Tavria" ZAZ-1102ZS
204KamAZ, KrAZ, MAZ, BelAZinjection pump
204ZAZ-968PS
M. "Ural", "Dnepr"PS, ZS
GROOVEventilation shaft
522516,5205"Tavria" ZAZ-1102ZS
205"Oka", M. "Ant"ZS
623017,5206"Moskvich-408", -412, -2140, IZH-412PS
206LuAZKR
LiAZRM
723518,5207VAZ-2108, M-412, -2140, IZHKD
207LuAZKR
LiAZRM
622518,5305"Moskvich-403", -412, -2140, Izh-412X
305“Volga”, “Gazelle”, “Chaika”, UAZ-451PS
723021306LuAZX
306KrAZRM
803523307"Gazelle", "Chaika".UAZ-451PS
KrAZRM
854525509UAZPS, ZS
509"Gazelle"ZS
905025510"Gazelle"ZS
510“Volga”, “Gazelle”, “Chaika”, ZIL-117, UAZKD
723029606“Moskvich-403″…-412, -2140, IZH-412X
606"Volga", "Gazelle", UAZ-3151X
606GAZ-52, -53, -3307, ZIL-117PS
803533607"Volga", "Gazelle", UAZ-3151X
623316,5707VAZ-2101…-2107, -2121, “Oka”KD
42,2519,0516,63804VAZ-2101…-2107PS
"Oka"ZS
BEARINGS OF DIFFERENT TYPES
Dimensions, mmSeriesApplicability, machine type, brand, modelInstallation location
DdB
522515205VAZ-2108, Oka, TavriaKP
VAZ-2107,-21065,-212135-speed KP
37257805VAZ-2108, Oka, Gazelle, M-2141RKL
36,523,514905"Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, "Chaika", ZIL-117
GAZ-51, -52, -53, -66, -3307, ZIL-131RKL
49,22532,0212,4907"Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, "Chaika"RM
5833,0218907"Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, "Chaika"RM
522515205"Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ,
GAZ-51, -52, -53, -66, -3307, ZIL-131RM
5125,115,875905"Gazelle", GAZ-21, UAZ-451, "Chaika"king pin support
52214702VAZ-2108, "Tavria"strut support, front, suspension
3517,78903VAZ-210 8, "Oka"RM
17,4611,1113901VAZ-2108, "Oka"RM
44,4728,079,6906“Moskvich-403″…-412, -2140, IZH-412, ZAZ-965, -968, LuAZ-969RM
301625702"Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, "Gazelle",crosses
"Chaika", ZIL-117, ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969cardans
301639902VAZ-2101…-2107, -2121, M-2141 (VAZ), GAZ-2410, -31029
301639(92)802"Gazelle", VAZ-2108, "Oka", "Tavria"VM
553113806VAZ-2108, Oka, Tavriaclutch release
723737908"Moskvich-2141"PS
643437907"Moskvich-2141"ZS
907VAZ-2108, "Tavria"PS
603037706VAZ-2108ZS
706"Oka"PS
Legend: RK - transfer case; RKL - steering column; VN - water pump; G - generator; KD - differential box; KO - power take-off; RM - steering mechanism; Gearbox - gearbox; KR - wheel reducer; M - motorcycle, moped; LM - outboard motor; PV - input shaft; RZ - rear axle shaft; PC - cardan outboard bearing; PP - front axle shaft; ZS - rear hub; X - shank (in the main pair); PS - front hub.

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Signs of malfunction on the VAZ 2107

If the bearing itself fails or its seat breaks, the car owner will definitely notice this. We list a number of the main signs of failure of this part:

  • While driving, a uniform low hum appears in the area of ​​the rear axle, which over time can turn into a loud creaking or crackling sound. And the faster the car goes, the louder the noise becomes.
  • A strong play appears on one of the rear wheels (to check this, just jack up the rear axle of the car and pull the wheel with your hands away from you and towards you).
  • Balls fall out of the bearing (this means that the separator in which these balls are located has completely collapsed).
  • Finally, the rear axle may simply jam. The drive wheels will stop rotating, and this can happen while driving (which may well cause an accident).

Rear wheel bearings VAZ 2106 dimensions

Below is data on the applicability of bearings in different components for the VAZ 2106.
The table contains all available VAZ 2106 components for which bearings are used.

To go to a specific bearing, you can use the site search.

The search is carried out by product number.

Important: the table additionally indicates the full name of the bearing in accordance with GOST or ISO regulatory documentation.

The 4-door sedan VAZ 2106 was also produced under the names VAZ 1600 and Lada 1600.

Important: Years of production: 1976-2006.

Place Bearing installation location

Bearing installation location in technology.

Caution: all data is taken from regulatory documentation. Not all manufacturers adhere to national standards; as a result, the sizes of bearings on sale may differ slightly from the tabular data.

Source

Sequencing

  1. The car is jacked up, and the wheel is removed using socket wrenches, behind which there is a worn bearing.
  2. The brake disc and pads are removed.
  3. Now you need to unscrew the axle shaft itself with a 17 socket wrench.


The axle shaft is unscrewed with a 17 socket wrench.
To remove it from the seat, you can use a crank. It should be inserted between the brake cylinder and the rear of the axle and used as a lever to push the axle out.


Pushing out the axle shaft using a crank

Now you need to remove the bearing from the axle shaft. Often it turns out to be tightly welded to it, so you have to literally cut it off with a grinder. This must be done by first clamping the axle shaft in a vice.


The old bearing is cut off with a grinder

Once the old bearing is removed, the axle must be thoroughly wiped with a rag. And then a new part and a retaining ring are put on the axle shaft.


Installing a new axle bearing

Now, using a medium-sized flat-head screwdriver, you need to remove the worn oil seal from the seat.


The old oil seal is removed with a screwdriver

  • As soon as it is removed, a new oil seal is installed in its place (it is most convenient to drive it into the seat with a 32 socket head).
  • The axle shaft with a new bearing is installed back into the seat and the entire assembly is reassembled.
  • Video: How to change it yourself

When should you replace a wheel bearing?

When will it start to hum, but the whole point is that it is very difficult to determine when you drive a car all the time, because the bearing will start to hum strongly only when it has actually all broken down and become unusable, so checking this way is not an option, for more For an accurate check, you will first need to hang the wheel (First the right front, then the left, it doesn’t matter, both wheels need to be checked) and after that, turn it by hand, it should spin without any jamming and hum (extraneous sound), there should be no (Only the pads can touch the brake disc, but this sound will be completely different, you can distinguish how the bearing hums and how the pads rub), for more details on how to check it, see the video below, it will be said about this hum, and more about how to determine by rocking whether the bearing has become unusable or not yet.

Important points

  • You need to be very careful when cutting off the old bearing with a grinder so as not to touch the axle shaft itself. It is best to cut off only the outer ring of the bearing and the cage with a grinder. Only a few small cuts (not through) should be made on the inner ring. Then you can insert a chisel into these cuts and, with a few careful and precise blows, split the inner ring of the bearing without touching the axle shaft.

  • The inner ring of the bearing is cut off with a chisel

  • The new bearing cannot be placed on the axle shaft without effort. In fact, it will have to be stuffed onto the axle. But in no case should you use only a hammer for this, since there is a high risk of distortion and damage. The best way is to take a piece of pipe whose diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the axle shaft, and use it to seat the part in place.
  • Some car enthusiasts heat the bearings and place them hot on the axle shaft. This really makes it easier to fit the new part because all the metals expand when heated. But it is strictly forbidden to install bearings in this way, since when this part is heated and subsequently cooled in air, it may anneal (that is, heat treatment, which consists of heating the steel to temperatures below critical, followed by slow cooling). Annealing will reduce the hardness of the bearing several times and increase its ductility, as a result, its service life will be reduced significantly.
  • Symptoms of a problem

    Cases of axle shaft failure are extremely rare, unlike bearings. The main sign of a faulty rear axle bearing is a hum in the area of ​​the rear axle wheel. Moreover, its intensity will depend on the speed of movement. If there is significant wear, a squeaking or grinding noise will be heard. Sometimes the bearing simply jams and it begins to rotate in the seat, and this leads to wear and tear and expensive repairs. The reason for its failure can be not only significant and frequent loads, but also simply a significant service life. Bearing diagnostics

    Replacing the rear wheel bearing

    Before starting work, we carry out standard actions to secure it, jack up the car and remove the wheel. Next: 1. remove the brake disc; 2. through the holes of the axle shaft, unscrew its fastenings with a 17 socket head; 3. remove the axle shaft by prying it with a pry bar; 4. cut the locking ring; 5. through the holes that unscrewed the axle shaft, we knock down the bearing;

    Don't remove the pads, I removed them to replace them.

    We take out the oil seal and clean the seat

    Next comes the assembly in reverse order: • install the oil seal; • stuff the bearing onto the axle shaft; • install the locking ring; • install the axle shaft in place.

    How to replace a wheel bearing on a VAZ 2106, 2107?

    We determined that it was the wheel bearing that was faulty, bought a new one and are preparing the tools for the job:

    1. Hammer
    2. Pliers
    3. Socket wrench set
    4. Impact screwdriver (that you can hit without breaking)
    5. Mandrel for pressing in new bearing races
    6. Head 27 with a large collar (for the hub nut)

    Removing the wheel bearing.

    First of all, remove the cap covering the hub nut. Next, we align the rolled edges of the hub nut and unscrew it.

    We hang the wheel and unscrew the brake caliper.

    You can remove the hub along with the brake disc.

    We take out the ring separating the seporators.

    We take out the internal and external separators and knock out their clips.

    We clean the hub from old grease and dirt.

    Installing a new wheel bearing.

    Installation occurs in the reverse order of removal.

    Carefully through the mandrel (an old clip as a last resort), we press in new clips, having previously lubricated their walls with motor oil or lithol.

    Install the separating ring.

    We generously lubricate the internal separator with lithol, put it in place and close it with an oil seal. We fill the hub a little less than halfway with lithol and place it on the steering knuckle.

    Lubricate the outer separator and put it in place.

    Now tighten the hub nut, but not all the way. We install the brake caliper and screw the wheel.

    When all the old parts have been replaced with new ones, you need to adjust

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