The standard location of the Lada 4×4 generator is at the bottom, which cannot be called a good solution. During off-road driving, water and dirt easily get on it, or antifreeze drips, which significantly reduces its service life. To protect an important part from moisture, owners resort to modifications. Let's look at how to move the generator up to a Lada 4×4.
Device Description
On Niva 21214 cars there is a generator of type 9412.3701, on VAZ 21213 - type 371.3701, on Niva Chevrolet there is a generator 2123. All of them are alternating current electric machines with electromagnetic excitation, having a built-in rectifier unit with silicon diodes and an electronic voltage regulator. The maximum current produced by the generator unit type 9412.3701 is 80 A, voltage - 13.2 - 14.7 V, rotation - right.
Design of unit 21214
The unit covers are attached to the stator using 4 bolts. The covers have bearings installed. They rotate the rotor shaft. In the front bearing, the inner race is clamped with a nut along with a thrust ring and washer. The 2nd bearing is also pressed into the back cover.
Mounting drawings for injection Lada 4×4 with power steering (VAZ 21214)
The author of the design proposes to move the generator to the place of the power steering, having previously installed the following bracket in its place:
Belt 1220 mm profile “A” (ZIL157), wedge angle 40 degrees. High pressure pressure hoses have a length at the centers of the fitting holes of 1450 mm. Return sleeve - 1115 mm. You will have to cut a hole for the hoses in the right protective casing. The belt is 710 mm long, other dimensions are the same. The photo on the left shows the hydraulic pump bracket, on the right - the power steering in the new place.
Drawing of its bracket:
Turn the power steering pump upside down. Result of moving the generator to the top:
There are ready-made kits for moving the Lada 4×4 generator upwards on sale, but the price for a piece of iron can be greatly inflated. Thus, by making such a bracket ourselves, we extend the service life of the generator and save money.
Where can I buy
: in our online store (link to the kit, category Kits for tuning and modifications of the Niva).
Have you ever encountered such a modification? How did you solve a similar problem? Let us remind you that in another article we determine whether the Lada 4×4 needs a more powerful generator.
Keywords: 4x4 generator
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Basic malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
Checking the health of the unit is done using a multimeter. After the engine is started, the voltage at the battery terminals should be 13.6 V. If the value is higher or lower, this indicates a break or short circuit of the windings, oxidation of the slip rings, a malfunction in the brush assembly, or voltage regulator.
The generator unit may not work well due to weak belt tension or its breakage. In this case, you need to adjust the tension or replace the belt. Faulty voltage regulator, needs to be replaced. If a breakdown, short circuit, or damage to the rotor windings is detected, it should be replaced. If there is a break or short circuit in the stator windings, it requires replacement. If the diodes are damaged, the rectifier unit is replaced.
How to move a generator in a field to the top
Now we take a grinder or a file and sharpen the engine block for the upper mounting of the bracket (the bolt to the left of the distributor, if they are located at the driver’s fender). On the block the tide has a round shape, but we reduce it to a rectangular shape!
We install the generator on the upper bracket and put on the belt. We check the alignment of the pulleys. If necessary, adjust the position of the bracket from the 214 generator. Install the tension bar. Let's tighten the generator belt!
We connect the wires, start the engine, check the voltage! (we didn’t succeed the first time due to a defective relay-regulator.
We inspect the engine compartment for the presence of jambs, making sure that they are absent, close the hood.
Niva is ready for new adventures!
Guide to removing and connecting the generator
To remove the unit, you need to prepare a set of tools: keys “10” and “19”, ratchets with heads, a hammer and a small extension.
The process consists of the following steps:
- First of all, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Next, you need to remove the engine protection and the right mudguard.
- Then, using a hammer, carefully knock out the mounting bolt and remove it.
- At the next stage, you need to disconnect all the wires going to the generator: the plug and the wires secured with a nut.
- Then the fastening on which the belt tensioner is located is unscrewed.
- By removing the belt, the assembly can be dismantled through the hole that was formed after removing the protection.
- After replacement or repair, install the unit in reverse order.
The generator is connected according to the diagram.
Price issue
The VAZ 21214 generator has good repairability, which allows you to significantly save money if worn or broken parts are replaced in a timely manner.
If you change the complete unit, the cost of replacement will be as follows:
- generator 21214 – 3125 rub.;
- lower mount – 133 RUR;
- fastening bolt - 53 rub.;
- tension bar - 55 rub.;
- relay RS-527 – 57 rub.
Alternator bracket diagram for VAZ 21213 (carburetor)
The author of the drawing made a bracket from a piece of metal 80x80 mm, 4 mm thick. The upper adjustment bar for the generator is borrowed from the Volga. It was cut in place and a new 8.5 mm mounting hole was drilled.
VAZ 2110 crankshaft pulley, GAZ 3110 pump pulley, 6RK1290 belt. A standard cooling fan is installed on the pump pulley. The location of the generator is top left. The lower mounting point of the fuel pump, at the front we attach it to a standard stud and bolt, and at the top there is an M8 cylinder head bolt. The lower long generator mounting bolt with an engraver and an additional locknut.
Another bracket drawing provides for a belt measuring 1375 mm. You will need to modify the plane on the head in the area of the M8 bolt with an angle grinder, and also change the studs and bolts securing the front cover.
Features of installing the bracket in the video:
Operating principle of the hydraulic control system
In the video below you can watch how a self-installed power steering works (the author of the video is Vladislav Mantula).
Reg.: 04/07/2005 Topics / Messages: 8 / 439 From: Moscow Age: 20 Car: 21213 2000
What is preferable and why, if you do not pay attention to the difference in price?
Reg.: 02.02.2005 Topics / Messages: 16 / 769 From: Moscow, Chertanovo. Age: 57 Car: 2121395
If I didn’t feel sorry for the money on my old lady, I would definitely install an EUR, as it seems to me more reliable and much easier to install.
Reg.: 07.28.2005 Topics / Messages: 1 / 2646 From: Ivanovo Age: 43 Car: Nivka2121. g.v. worn-out 1.9i and other minor tuning Murzik MV 300TD 1993
Reg.: 12/06/2004 Topics / Messages: 628 / 51730
rdoctor: Power steering, unlike electric power steering, dampens the transmission of impacts from the wheels to the steering wheel - when hitting a pothole at speed, the steering wheel will not be torn out of your hands. Actually, this is the main (and perhaps the only) plus of the power steering. The power steering uses a standard steering gearbox. With a booster, you will be spinning the wheels more often on a stationary car, which will shorten the life of the standard RR. The power steering comes with its own gearbox.
As for the rest, the EUR has only advantages. Price, ease of installation. And the fact that if the power steering malfunctions, you will simply get a standard steering wheel, and not a steering wheel that can barely be turned (although we have never heard of malfunctions in our power steering).
But the question is... Does our Nivsky power steering change the force on the steering wheel depending on the speed, or not? I want the steering wheel to stiffen as the speed increases, and not remain weak. As far as I understand, the power steering monitors the speed (does it really load the steering wheel as it increases?) And the power steering? Is he just unloading? Or does it still track? (how does it track, by the way, if it does track?)
People, let me know who installed the Nivo EUR, how is it in terms of quality? I want to buy it, it’s cheaper than the Priorovsky one and the lock, the steering wheel and steering columns don’t need to be changed, everything is original. The only difference is that the Priorovsky one has height adjustment.
How does power steering work? Its main element is a pump, which, using a belt from the crankshaft, sucks in oil and pumps it into the distributor. The latter, in turn, monitors the force applied to the steering wheel and, using a torsion bar (follower device), helps turn the drive wheels. When moving in a straight line, the torsion bar does not twist, so the distributor channels are blocked and the oil drains back into the reservoir.
Power steering is most often useful when parking and turning, making the work of your hands three times easier. We can also say that the mechanism weakens the transmission of microshocks from the road surface to the steering. The mechanism is also useful in case of a sharp drop in tire pressure. The disadvantages of power steering include the fact that it interferes with “feeling the car”, so designers need to achieve a compromise between informativeness and tightness of the steering wheel.
Foreign manufacturers conduct a lot of research in order to make the hydraulic booster light at low speeds and elastic at high speeds. To do this, German hydraulic boosters from ZF are equipped with pressure modulators, which limit the oil pressure in the operating circuit as speed increases. In addition, circuits with power steering driven by an electric motor are acceptable, which makes it possible to change the pump performance in accordance with the rotation of the electric drive. Sometimes the gear ratio is also changed.
Lada 4×4 3D “Grandfather” › Logbook › Moving the generator upstairs
One of the main points of remodeling our “Grandfather” was moving the generator upwards. We collected the necessary parts and boldly got down to business.
To move the generator you need:
1.
Bracket for transfer – 1 pc.
(1700r) 2.
Bolts M6x25 – 4 pcs.
(20r) 3.
Generator mounting bolt (assembled) cat. No. 2110-3701376 (100r)
4.
V-belt 10x1350mm (355r)
5.
File and at least one straight hand)) (priceless!)
Our Niva does not have power steering, so we bought the bracket specifically for it. With hydraulic booster, the shape of the bracket is different, but the good news is that the cost is the same. We bought the bracket from the guys from the Z-IQ store for 1700 rubles. z-iq.ru/shop?mode=product&product_id=588250406
The bracket consists of three parts. It is possible to install generators from different manufacturers. For some reason the bolt for attaching the generator was not included in the kit...
We couldn’t find a 10x1350 V-belt on the open market, so we had to order it. Belt price 355 rub.
We bought a generator mounting bolt from 2110. The bolt is assembled with bushings, a washer and a nut. Cat. No. 2110-3701376. Price 100 rub.
First of all, remove the propeller.
Then the pump pulley and remove the belt.
Unscrew the standard generator bracket. Gene is free!
We take a file in one of our straight hands and refine the bead around the cylinder head bolt and the bead on the cylinder block, because the bracket catches these nodules
And this is what this is done for!
Next, we unscrew the standard two studs and two bolts. And again with a straight hand!
Important point! The bolts come out without any problems. To unscrew the studs without any problems, screw on two nuts! Don’t complicate the installation, with two nuts you can unscrew it just once or twice
We got distracted and forgot about the straight arm and the two nuts... We started drilling... we ruined the stud... we broke the drill that remained in the body of the stud... DON'T REPEAT OUR MISTAKES!
The standard generator will not fit into the new bracket! We don’t need this, it’s old and only 55A. They fitted us with a new 80A generator from Volga free of charge.
We couldn’t find M6x25 bolts, so we bought M6x30 and cut them to the required length. We collect all the components together.
Before final assembly and pulling of the bracket, check the alignment of the belt on the pump, generator and crankshaft pulleys!
They did not tighten the belt, because... generator for a poly-V-ribbed belt. Switching to a poly-V belt entails replacing all pulleys with all the ensuing consequences and nuances. We'll tell you about them in our next post!
Don't be afraid of useful changes, move the generator! And don't repeat other people's mistakes! This recording was made specifically for this purpose, so that your revision goes without any problems or loss of time! Good luck and victories to everyone!
Source
How to replace power steering fluid in a Chevrolet Niva
The power steering system itself is a Chevrolet Niva hydraulic system, part of the steering mechanism to make it easier to turn the steering wheel and set the trajectory. If the power steering fails, it is possible to drive the car, but the steering wheel will be difficult to turn and will become heavy.
The power steering fluid level in a Chevrolet Niva can be determined by the marks on the plastic power steering expansion tank.
During operation, Chevrolet Niva power steering fluid can leak in various places, most often through hoses. As a result, the power steering oil level will drop.
Driving without fluid in the Chevrolet Niva's power steering puts you at risk of breaking the power steering pump, which costs a lot of money, since it will run dry. As a result, it will suffer serious damage and fail. The power steering pump in the Chevrolet Niva starts working as soon as you start the car. If your Chevrolet Niva is left without oil in the power steering system, then the best solution is to call a tow truck.
Intensive use of the Chevrolet Niva makes the color of the power steering oil darker over time, often with a burning smell.
This is a reason to think about replacing it. Overheating of the oil often occurs when the steering wheel is held in the extreme position for a long time, until it boils; the pressure in this case is maximum. You should also not leave your car parked for a long time with the steering wheel turned all the way.
Quick prevention and inspection of Chevrolet Niva power steering includes:
monitoring the power steering oil level and its quality in the power steering expansion tank, checking the tension of the drive belt on the Chevrolet Niva power steering pump, assessing the condition of the hoses - cracks, leaks, fogging, as well as searching for leaks at the joints of power steering elements.
There are two ways to replace the fluid in the Chevrolet Niva power steering:
- partial replacement of power steering fluid for Chevrolet Niva.
- complete replacement of power steering fluid for Chevrolet Niva.
To partially replace the power steering oil, you will need a syringe (with a tube) and the oil itself, enough so that at the end of the work it will no longer be dark.
Partial replacement of power steering fluid in Chevrolet Niva:
- Unscrew the cap of the Chevrolet Niva power steering expansion tank.
- Using a syringe with a tube, completely pump out the fluid from the power steering reservoir.
- Fill the reservoir with new fluid to the MAX level.
- We start the engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to the extreme position.
- We turn off the engine and repeat step No. 1 again until we get the required result - light oil.
The following method for changing power steering oil in a Chevrolet Niva will allow you to achieve almost 100% replacement.
Complete replacement of power steering fluid in Chevrolet Niva:
Replacing the alternator belt Lada 2121 4×4 21217 (VAZ Niva)
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Characteristics of the standard generator
The main characteristics of the generator installed by the manufacturer in Niva 21214, 21213, 2121 will be considered using the example of generator type 9412.3701:
- current – 80A;
- voltage – 13.2 V,
- rotation is right.
The cost of standard models of electric generators is 5-7 thousand rubles. If the unit breaks down, it is possible to replace its components or completely replace it with the original or analogues. The prices of the most common ones are presented in the table.
| Analogue | vendor code | Cost, in rubles |
| Generator VAZ-2104-21073,21214 | 9412.3701-03 | 5900 |
| Generator VAZ-2104-21073,21214 | 372.3701-03/05 | 3800 |
| Generator VAZ 2121-21213,21214 | 9412.3701 | 5450 |
The table shows that in the process of replacing a generator on a Niva, you can give preference to a cheaper universal analogue.
| Analogue | vendor code | Cost, in rubles |
| Generator VAZ-2104-21073,21214 | 9412.3701-03 | 5900 |
| Generator VAZ-2104-21073,21214 | 372.3701-03/05 | 3800 |
| Generator VAZ 2121-21213,21214 | 9412.3701 | 5450 |
