It's decided! How to Adjust the Clutch Pedal on a Lada Largus?

Articles

For all cables suitable for cars of the first and second generation, the Renault catalog contains two article numbers - 8200215961 and 6001546867. We are talking about different designations of one part.

But number 307705043R is a new generation of cars, that is, 2014. Make no mistake!

Substitutes

3074 600 294 - the most common option for replacing the original spare part

3074 600 294 in Exist

We list analogues suitable for machines from the first two generations:

• CABOR 10.2890
• TRISCAN 8140 25250
• ATE 24372810312 or 591031
• AUTOMOTOR FRANCE AVC6867SAE1 or AVC6867

• BAV DISAN96
• CAUTEX 28439
• ADRIAUTO AD41180, AD410180, 41180, 410180
• CEF RT01186
• CMB AN96
• QUARTZ QZ-154-6867
• FRANCECAR FCR210148
• COFLE 102890
• FTE FKS20023
• KAWE RT01186
• HI-DRIVE CC708
• MALO 26545
• NPA NP51105151
• SPJ 911112
• QH KA93657
• TRW GCC109
• TIMMEN 01441528
• SACHS 3074600294 (pictured above)
• MASTER-SPORT 6001546867PRPCSMS
• ABS K27640
• ASAM 30360 or 31071
• HELLA 8AK 355 700-921
• BRECKNER BK19004
• SEIM 401712
• KAGER 192756
• LEX TR2193
• RICAMBIFLEX 01441528
• METZGER 102890
• TEXTAR 58013900

Video instructions: how to easily adjust the clutch cable

How to replace the clutch cable on a Renault Logan without damaging anything, and how to get rid of a squeaking fork. Previous article The clutch pedal squeaks on Renault Logan - we are looking for the reason ourselves. We provide photos, video content and articles.

Everyone knows that replacing the clutch cable on a Renault Logan takes 10 minutes. Renault Logan Car Enthusiasts Club • View topic - Changing the oil in the box The main difficulty will be in setting it up. Replacing brake pads for Renault Logan 2. If the pedal starts to “stick”, simply replace the cable. There were no known cases of breakage, although in theory this option is possible. Replacing and adjusting headlights on a Renault Sandero: video instructions In general, if you intend to change the cable, stock up on two “10” keys, a “7” key and a ruler.

We show you how to perform the replacement in the video.

The clutch pedal of Lada Vesta, Largus, XRAY has failed: what to do?

When operating cars with a hydraulic clutch (Lada Vesta, Lada Largus, Lada XRAY, a number of Nissan, Renault models, etc.), when you press the clutch pedal, you can hear a loud click under the dashboard in the pedal area. After this, the clutch pedal falls to the floor. We will understand the causes of the malfunction, as well as how the design can be improved to prevent this problem from occurring again.

Cause of a failed clutch pedal

— a breakdown of the plastic retainer, which causes the clutch master cylinder rod to fly off the pedal axis. As a temporary solution, you can snap the rod into place to get there, but it will still fly off in the future.

At the service station you will be asked to replace the clutch master cylinder assembly with a new one:

• for Lada Vesta - article number 8450007300, price from 1200 rub.
• for Lada Largus - article 306107623R, price from 2200 rub.
• for Lada XRAY - article 306104118R, price from 1900 rub.

In order not to replace the part with a new one, it is proposed to modify the fastening. It will be cheaper and more reliable. It is not necessary to remove the clutch master cylinder.

• washer 10 (3mm thick);
• lock washer for 8 (or fixation washer with petals, article number 8200748573);
• lithol or other lubricant.

1. Remove the rod from the pedal axle.
2. Using pliers, bite off part of the plastic from the rod along with the latches.
3. Lubricate the connection between the rod and axle with lithol.
4. Install the washer and snap the lock washer into place.

The refinement process is also shown in the video:

After modification, it was also noted: the disappearance of creaking when squeezing the clutch pedal, and the pedal itself began to be pressed more softly and without rattling.

Replacing the friction clutch

Repairing the Larugsa clutch, like any other car, does not make sense; all worn parts must be replaced. To work, you will need a standard set of tools, amplifiers, a hammer and a new set of spare parts. First, the car must be placed on a lift or its front part raised on jacks above the inspection hole. The front wheels and engine protection are removed. After unscrewing the screws, you need to remove the left shield under the bumper. This will give you access to the shield fasteners in the wheel arch, which must also be removed.

The gearbox oil is drained into a suitable container; to do this, first unscrew the plastic and then the metal plug. Do not remove the reservoir until maximum oil has been drained. Dismantle the brake caliper and put it aside along with the pads.

Removing the steering knuckle

Removal is carried out according to the following scheme:

• disconnect the ABS sensor;
• Using a 16 mm wrench, unscrew the nut on the tie rod screw, use a screwdriver to open the two sides of the knuckle, and press out the ball joint rod;
• on the steering end stud, unscrew the nut with a 16 mm wrench and press out the stud;
• Using two 18 mm wrenches, unscrew the fastening nuts that secure the fist to the stand. Now you can remove the steering knuckle, and also dismantle the CV joint from the gearbox (in this case, the rollers will probably fall out).

It is impossible to replace the clutch on a Largus without draining the oil, since the internal drive mechanisms (CV joints) cannot be unscrewed if there is lubricant in the gearbox.

Working in the engine compartment

First you need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and remove the cable. To do this, the counterweight is pulled forward, removed through the slot, after which the rubber coupling is removed through it. The engine harness holder is attached to the gearbox housing. To remove it, just loosen the fastener. Now you need to disconnect all the wire terminals:

• unscrew the two mounting screws and remove the terminal from the TDC sensor;
• Disable the reverse sensor at the gearbox;
• disconnect the speed sensor terminal;
• The oxygen concentration sensor (lambda probe) is also disconnected.

The breather hose needs to be loosened and moved away from the box, unscrew the two wires to ground. Next, find the gearshift knob rod, loosen the fastening and pull out the rod.

A mark is left on the fastening clamp using paint so that the rod can be placed correctly during installation.

Removing the gearbox

It is impossible to replace the clutch on a Lada Largus without removing the gearbox. First you need to remove the subframe by unscrewing the three bolts securing it to the bumper. Then the rear support bracket is removed, the steering mounting bolts and the power steering mounting bolt on the left on the subframe are unscrewed. The exhaust pipe is disconnected from the exhaust manifold and removed from the rubber hangers. The subframe is attached to the body with 4 bolts - they need to be unscrewed. Additionally, you will have to remove the starter.

It remains to remove the two screws on top - they secure the gearbox to the engine - and the four bolts with which the clutch housing is attached to the oil sump. Suitable supports are first installed under the engine and gearbox. At the very end, the left engine mount bracket is dismantled, after which the nuts on the lower studs are unscrewed.

Replacing the mechanism

To remove the basket, perform the following operations:

• using an 11 mm wrench, unscrew 6 bolts that hold the basket, fixing it on the flywheel - one turn at a time, sequentially;
• holding the friction disc, remove the basket.

After replacing all worn elements, the assembly is assembled, and the steps are performed in the reverse order. For installation you will need to use heat-resistant grease and a centering mandrel.

Clutch adjustment

Ideally centering and balancing the friction clutch by doing the assembly yourself will be problematic, but possible. To adjust the tension with your own hands, you need to perform a number of actions:

• find the nuts for adjusting the clutch pedal (located under the power steering reservoir);
• unscrew the outer nut to the end of the stud;
• using the second nut, the travel of the clutch pedal is adjusted to the desired cable tension;
• After this, the external nut secures the fastener so that in the future it does not loosen and the cable does not fly off.

If the Largus clutch is adjusted correctly, first gear will engage easily. When the engine is running and the clutch pedal is fully depressed, there should be no crunching, crackling, spontaneous increase or decrease in speed.

Bleeding the clutch of Lada Largus

Bleeding is only relevant for the hydraulic drive on the JR5 gearbox. This must be done if air has entered the hydraulic system and an air lock has formed. Signs of a problem: the clutch begins to “drive”, and when the pedal is fully pressed, the friction clutch does not disengage completely. When you engage any gear, a characteristic grinding sound of gears is heard, and the lever becomes difficult to control.

To bleed the clutch, you must first replace the brake fluid and restore the sealing of the brake and clutch systems. Without this, the pedal will simply fail. To work, you will need a flat-head screwdriver, new brake fluid, a suitable container and a hose that matches the diameter of the fitting. The pumping process is as follows:

1. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top up to the maximum level if necessary.
2. Remove the protective cap from the clutch slave cylinder fitting and put on a suitable hose (for example, from a dropper). The second end must be lowered into a container to drain the brake fluid.
3. Next you will need an assistant. Its task is to press the clutch pedal at least 10 times at intervals of several seconds.
4. Use an 8 mm wrench to loosen the fitting, use a screwdriver to pry up the spring clamp and lift it until it clicks. The tip from the cylinder pipe is displaced by 1 cm.
5. The assistant depresses the clutch and holds the pedal, at which time the liquid from the cylinder flows through the hose into the container.
6. After the liquid stops flowing, the fitting is tightened, the tip of the cylinder pipe is pushed back and secured with a spring retainer.
7. After this, the pedal can be released and the operation repeated after 5-10 seconds.

You need to pump until only liquid begins to flow out of the hose - there should be no air bubbles in it. After completing the procedure, place the protective cap on the fitting.

As you pump, you need to monitor the amount of liquid in the tank. A drop in its level below the minimum level is not allowed, since air will enter the system again and all actions will become meaningless. Brake fluid should be added periodically.

How to lubricate the fork

Remove the power steering fluid reservoir. To do this, unscrew T20 screws (2 pcs.). Then the tank is tilted to the side and secured with wire. If the fluid level in the tank is insufficient, then it is necessary to add oil to the power steering.

Removing unnecessary elements

When there is no reservoir, you can get close to the fork boot.

It is clear that the clutch cable in Renault Logan cannot creak. If there is a creak, the fork is at fault. The clutch fork hinge is covered with a boot, which is simply pushed up (see photo).

After cleaning is completed, apply a protective lubricant. And the guide rod (yellow) needs to be lubricated.

Use only high temperature grease designed for clutch bearings.

To return the boot to its place, it should be “softened”. Any silicone-based compositions are suitable here.

Basic malfunctions and methods for their elimination

The most obvious reason for the failure of the Lada Largus clutch is oil contamination. If this happens, the clutch cannot be replaced until the leak is fixed. There can be two sources of leakage: engine or gearbox. Oil can leak out of the engine due to a worn oil seal behind the flywheel. Changing it is quite difficult due to the labor-intensive dismantling process.

If lubricant gets in from the gearbox, the culprit is a worn oil seal located on the front of the gearbox. To replace the unit, you will need to drain the oil from the gearbox and separate the final drive housing from the gearbox housing. The process is labor-intensive, but necessary. To remove the oil seal, you will also need to remove the flywheel.

Before proceeding with the removal and disassembly of the clutch, it is necessary to check the reliability of the fixing elements that attract the assembly to the Largus frame and engine. If the fasteners are loose or the rubber bushings are worn out, when pressing the pedal the driver will feel shaking and jerking when moving away.

To describe characteristic clutch problems, special terms are used, for example, seizing. This is a situation when strong vibrations are felt during operation of the mechanism, and when you try to move, sharp jerks begin. When the clutch is driven, the disc is not pressed away from the flywheel, that is, the friction clutch does not disengage, and it is impossible to engage the gear.

If the clutch begins to squeal when shifting gears or starting off, this indicates wear on the release bearing. Wear can occur both under natural conditions after long-term use, and as a result of the actions of the driver himself. This is especially typical for cases when the car is parked with the engine running and the gear is turned off (in a traffic jam, not at traffic lights).

Slipping

The engine crank spins the flywheel faster than it transmits rotation to the pressure plate. It is not difficult to determine the malfunction, since when the speed increases, the car cannot accelerate. This is especially noticeable on steep slopes when moving up and under heavy load. To make sure of this, the car is placed on a level surface. The parking brake is applied as high as possible, after which you need to start the engine. Now you should depress the clutch, engage fifth gear, raise the speed slightly and press the brake pedal firmly while releasing the clutch. After such manipulations, if the clutch is working properly, the engine should stall. If this does not happen, it means the friction clutch is slipping. Testing is best done on a warm engine.

Jerking when turned on

If sudden jerks occur when you try to engage the clutch, the engine or gearbox mounts may be loose. This also occurs when oil gets on the friction disc and when the pressure plate is incorrectly adjusted. As a result of this, the pressure plate will not be released from the friction plate smoothly, but with sharp jerks. Typically, jerking occurs while driving in first gear with the pedal released or when reversing.

The clutch is slipping

Slipping indicates wear of the friction linings of the driven disk, failure of the pressure disk, or contamination of its surface with oil. The malfunction is manifested by incomplete pressing of the pressure plate or loose friction of the friction linings. A small amount of oil that gets between the discs cannot harm, since it burns under the influence of high temperature. This will be indicated by the dark color of the overlays. If a lot of oil gets in, it leaves behind a carbon deposit on the linings. As a result, the pressure is not enough, the disc begins to stick and slip. There are two ways to identify a malfunction:

1. When driving in fifth gear, you need to lightly press the gas pedal. If the clutch slips, the revs will jump, but there will be no acceleration.
2. If the discs are slipping due to oil or dirt on them, then injecting carbon tetrachloride may temporarily relieve the problem.

Sticking

Occurs due to any obstructions in the friction clutch or on the splines of the input shaft. The result of the malfunction is the impossibility of the pressure plate coming out of engagement, even if the pedal is fully depressed. In the case of a hydraulic drive, sticking may occur due to an air lock in the system. The problem can be diagnosed by a difficult first gear to engage when starting off. There is also a malfunction if, while driving, the gears are difficult to engage; when the clutch is engaged, the engagement occurs too early, when the pedal is just beginning to be released. To fix the problem, it is necessary to dismantle the friction clutch to replace damaged and worn parts.