Replacing a grenade on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands

Causes and breakdowns

In reality, the resource of the CV joint turns out to be significantly less, which is caused by operating conditions, poor quality of roads, driving habits and other factors.

People usually call a CV joint a “grenade,” which is due to the external similarity of the element to this explosive device.

Here's what you should know about grenade malfunctions:

Practice shows that the most common cause of CV joint failure is dirt, dust, and sand that enter the mechanism through a damaged boot;
Sometimes the problem of a non-functioning grenade can be solved by replacing the boot. This is possible if the CV joint itself has not yet worn out due to exposure to contamination;
If the damaged boot is not detected in time, the grenade will be completely worn out within literally 200 kilometers;
If the CV joint fails, a strong crunching sound appears when cornering and accelerating. Such a symptom indicates the need to urgently replace the CV joint;
The cost of new grenades is quite affordable; they are available at any auto parts store. But you should purchase those that meet the technical requirements of the VAZ 2109;
If you have at least a little experience in repairing cars yourself, it is quite possible to replace a grenade with your own hands.

Old and new element

Signs of failure of the outer grenade (CV joint).

There are two options here:

signs that your grenade has already broken,
signs that the grenade will soon come out and break.

How to understand that a grenade will soon break.

Of course, the first sign of a malfunction of the external grenade is a crackling sound. If you hear a crackling noise while driving with the steering wheel turned, it is definitely a CV joint. The greater the angle of rotation of the wheel and the harder you press on the gas, the louder the clicks. Another sign that does not always appear is vibration on the steering wheel at speeds above 80 km/h. The vibration is only slightly similar to the vibration from an unbalanced wheel. It usually manifests itself as a slight twitching of the steering wheel.

How to understand that the outer CV joint has broken.

If the CV joint breaks, the car will stop moving. In any gear engaged, press the gas, the speed increases, but the car does not move.

How to understand that it is the outer CV joint that has broken, and not the internal one or the clutch in general (the first signs of failure are similar to the signs of a clutch failure)? First of all, start the car and put it in any gear. Next, open the hood and look in turn at each of the shafts going from the box to the wheels (one short, the other long). If any shaft is spinning, it means that the CV joint has broken on this side.

I recommend not just visually looking at the shaft, but touching it with some long, hard object, such as a stick. The main thing is that there is nothing on it that can wrap around the shaft!!! When you touch the shaft with a stick, if it is spinning, you will feel a slight vibration. This is usually done in the dark, because it is difficult to understand whether a cylindrical object is spinning, especially in the dark.

Types of CV joints

Before you begin repairs, you need to find out exactly how the unit is designed.

The pair of drives on the VAZ 2109 is equipped with a total of 4 CV joints.

CV joint type

Peculiarities

There are 2 of them. They transmit torque to the axle shaft from the gearbox

There are also two of them. Installed on the ends of the axle shafts and transmit torque directly to the wheels

Outer

This arrangement of grenades allows the wheels to rotate during turns and constant operation of the suspension system. To put it simply, the outer CV joints are responsible for transmitting torque when cornering, and the inner ones are responsible for the vertical movement of the wheels. These are collisions with bumps, holes, roll in turns, etc.

Interior

VAZ 2109 - grenade replacement, photo, video

The “Grenade” (as it was popularly called) was called a constant velocity joint (or, as it is correctly called, a constant velocity joint). It is designed for mechanical transmission of torque from the gearbox drive shaft to the wheels and ensures uniform rotation (without jerking) of the wheels when turning at angles exceeding 70 degrees. The breakdown of this important organ, most often caused by dirt getting under the boot (rubber protection), is serious and must be fixed as soon as possible, because it is the most important element in the front-wheel drive.

To find out whether this mechanism requires repair, you need to find a sufficiently large area, turn the steering wheel in any desired direction until it stops, and move off very sharply. If during a maneuver you hear a characteristic crunch in the front of the car, it means that the grenade requires immediate repair. The side that requires repair corresponds to the side to which you turned the steering wheel during the maneuver.

The choice of the repair side (if both are worn out) is yours, but it is recommended to replace the grenade first on one side and then on the other. However, if you are replacing more than one, you can do the work on both sides.

First of all, remove the boot from the hub nut on the wheel and loosen the nut. It's worth noting that you will need plenty of force, so it is recommended to use all possible leverage.
Loosen the wheel bolts slightly, jack up the car, place a stump with a diameter of at least 30 cm under the body and remove the wheel. Then you can finally unscrew the hub nut and throw it away, because it can always be replaced with a new one.
Now you need to remove the brake caliper so that it is not in the way, which is held on by two 19 bolts. There is no need to unscrew the brake hose; it will be enough to hang the caliper on it in the engine compartment.
Using a 17mm wrench, also unscrew the two bolts that hold the lower ball joint and move the lower arm down so that it is out of the way.
Place a small wooden block against the hub and, with sharp blows of a hammer, knock out the CV joint inward.
Remove the clamp from the boot, then remove the boot itself, clamp the drive shaft with a gas wrench and knock out the outer grenade with a hammer. If it is necessary to replace the internal CV joint, then drain the transmission oil from the gearbox in advance and, using a chisel and hammer, remove the internal grenade.
Next, first of all, a boot is installed on the drive shaft, then the outer grenade is lubricated at the junction with the drive shaft, a clamp is secured to the boot and a retaining ring is installed. The drive shaft must be hammered onto the grenade with a hammer made of soft metal or with some kind of lining (the same block).
The remaining lubricant is squeezed out inside the boot, which then must be placed directly on the grenade.
Now all that remains is to carefully drive the drive shaft with the grenade into the gearbox and drive the grenade itself into the wheel hub using shims.
Insert the ball joints into place, or, best of all, replace them with new ones while you still have the opportunity. After this operation, tighten the two ball joint bolts.
Attach the caliper to the hub. The pads can also be replaced if they are worn out.
We install a new hub nut and tighten it until it stops, after which we install the wheel, tighten it, remove the car from the jack and, using an additional lever, tighten the hub nut as tightly as possible. Don't forget to also wear a duster.

As you noticed, there is nothing complicated in this process! Good luck on the roads!

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Replacement

If problems arise with grenades, you should determine which ones have problems. Next we will look at how to change the drive and how to remove it. Additionally, we recommend watching the repair manual video.

The procedure for replacing inner and outer CV joints differs from each other, therefore each stage should be considered separately.

Let's start with the internal.

Inner CV joint

Rubber boots are a vulnerable element of the grenade design. It is not uncommon that by replacing the boot, washing the grenade with gasoline and applying new lubricant, it is possible to solve the problem. If the wear of the CV joint is insignificant, such measures can replace a full repair.

But if you discover the breakdown late, you will have to completely replace the inner CV joints.

Apply the handbrake and install chocks under the wheels.
Unscrew the hub nut using a wrench and a socket. Carefully remove the punching elements from the nut with a punch. This way you will be able to preserve the carving on the garnet. The nut itself will need to be replaced with a new one during reassembly.
The main thing here is to unscrew the nut, lowering the wheels to the ground. Otherwise, you risk breaking the differential and other gearbox components.
Raise the car using a jack on the desired side, first loosening the wheel nuts. Remove the wheel.
Drain the gearbox oil. This can be done earlier, at your convenience.
Release the steering knuckle from the ball joint at the bottom. To do this, unscrew a pair of mounting bolts.
Since you have already removed the hub nut and unscrewed the ball joint from the steering knuckle, proceed to removing the splined part of the grenade. To do this, pull the brake disc and strut assembly towards you. She has a decent ride. Just remember to turn the steering wheel all the way so that the tip of the steering wheel extends as far as possible.
Pry the inner grenade with a pry bar, which will allow you to remove the drive.
Having taken out the CV joint, look at the condition of the oil seal in the gearbox. If you find traces of leaks, be sure to replace the element.

Replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2109 (2108, 21099)

You can replace the outer CV joint (angular velocity joint, “grenade”) on a VAZ 2109 (2108, 21099) without removing the wheel drive.

Necessary tools, accessories and spare parts

Soft metal drift

Key "30" (knob with head)

Key "17" (head or socket)

Pliers (preferably extendable)

Slotted screwdriver or circlip remover

New outer CV joint (they are the same for both wheel drives of the car)

New CV retaining ring

CV joint lubricant (CV joint-4 or equivalent) 40 g

New hub nut

If necessary, CV joint boot and clamps for it

Preparatory work

Place the car on a level surface and securely fix it (handbrake, wheel chocks)

Using a thin chisel, we bend the edges of the wheel hub nut (they are bent to fix the nut in the groove of the CV joint shank)

We loosen the tightening of the front wheel hub nut (where the replacement will be made) using a “30” wrench

We jack up and hang both front wheels of the car (this way we remove the clamping force of the anti-roll bar on the suspension and thereby make it easier to dismantle the necessary parts)

We clean the parts of the front suspension and wheel drive from dirt

The procedure for replacing the outer CV joint of the front wheel drive of a VAZ 2109 (2108, 21099)

Unscrew the wheel hub nut

We use the key at “30”. Remove the nut and washer underneath.

Unscrew the wheel hub nut using a “30” wrench

Disconnect the ball joint

It is attached with two 17mm socket bolts to the bottom of the steering knuckle. Unscrew and remove the bolts.

Disconnect the front suspension ball joint

Disconnect the outer CV joint shank from the wheel hub

We move the front strut towards ourselves, and pull the shank out of the hole in the hub. At the same time, we try to prevent the inner CV joint from being pulled out of the gearbox (we try not to move the drive towards ourselves too much). At this stage, it may be difficult to remove the shank from the hub since there is a splined connection that “sours” over time. To facilitate dismantling, you can hit a couple of times with a hammer through a wooden spacer (block) at the end of the shank.

Remove the CV joint shank from the hole in the wheel hub by moving the front strut towards you

Removing the CV joint boot

Both clamps from the CV joint need to be removed - large and small. We use a screwdriver and pliers to disconnect the clamp lock. After removing the clamps, move the boot up along the “stick” of the drive (so as not to interfere).

Remove the CV joint boot clamp using a screwdriver

We remove the outer CV joint (“grenade”) from the drive shaft

We turn the CV joint so that its inside is visible. We knock it off the drive shaft using a soft metal drift. We strike the clip. At the same time, we try to hold the drive so that it does not jump out of the gearbox. The separator and the balls inside it cannot be hit. Usually a couple of blows are enough, since the CV joint is attached to a spring retaining ring, which is easily compressed.

We knock the CV joint off the drive shaft using a soft metal drift and a hammer

Use a screwdriver or puller to pry up and remove the retaining ring. There is no need to remove the thrust ring.

CV joint thrust and retaining rings 2108, 2109, 21099

Installing a new CV joint

We put new lubricant 20 grams into it. We install a new retaining ring on the drive shaft. We place the CV joint straight and hammer it onto the shaft with a hammer through a drift. We install the boot in place by first putting the remaining 20 grams of lubricant into it. We install clamps. We tighten the clamp locks with pliers. Before tightening, squeeze the air out from under the boot by squeezing it a little.

Notes and additions

The reason for replacing the outer CV joint on a VAZ 2109 may be the appearance of a crunching sound from the suspension when driving at low speed and simultaneously turning left (right). This suggests that, as a temporary measure to eliminate the crunching noise, you can try to wash the cavity of the CV joint (“grenade”) with diesel fuel or gasoline, dry it and apply new lubricant.

For more details about the malfunctions of the CV joints of the VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 and how to diagnose and eliminate them on your own, see the page: “Signs of a malfunction of the CV joints of the wheel drives of the VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099.”

Possible causes of crunching

An experienced driver can by ear determine the location of a car malfunction. This quality comes with age. However, it is very difficult to confuse the crunch of a grenade with another sound. Let's figure out what a CV joint is. On the outside it is made in the form of a bowl, and on the inside the body has semicircular grooves. There are six of them.

In the internal space there is a spherical fist (clip) with 6 grooves and a splined connection for the axle shaft. Rotation occurs through the force that the cage transmits to the body through the balls located in the separator. The balls, moving along the grooves, change the angle between the axes.

low-quality or defective products, including counterfeit ones, have been identified;
low-quality lubricants are used or they are absent;
boot damage;
driving on bad roads or aggressive driving style.

Each part has its own production resource. And over time, play appears in the hinges. The rolling of the balls, now more free, produces a sound reminiscent of crunching. It may appear when turning, sharp acceleration, or overcoming obstacles.

There are 2 grenades installed on the drive wheels (internal and external): the first transmits rotation from the gearbox, the second - from the axle shaft to the wheel hub. Therefore, if an extraneous sound occurs, you need to determine which CV joint is making the sound (located on the left or right, inside or outside).

Replacement frequency

It is hardly possible to name the exact mileage after which it is necessary to replace 2114 grenades. In many ways, the service life of the elements depends on the following factors:

Manufacturer. Domestic and European grenades last much longer than the Chinese ones that have flooded the market in recent years.
Metal quality. The main thing is that the metal is hardened, otherwise wear out will occur very quickly.
Driver's driving style. If you are accustomed to an aggressive style, then you cannot envy the grenades, as well as the entire car. The resource of elements decreases.

Methods for diagnosing CV joints

Grenade structure: 1 - body with outer clip; 2 - separator; 3 - inner race; 4 — balls (6 pcs.); 5 — drive shaft; 6 — retaining ring; 7 — corrugated cover; 8 — cover clamps

How to determine which grenade is damaged and needs to be replaced? There are several diagnostic methods.

First, let's try to determine the crunch of the external grenade. The car is stationary. We pull the axle at the hinges one by one and listen. A knocking sound appears, which means there is play in the CV joint, which indicates that the grenade is damaged.
Now let the car drive on a flat area. To install, what kind of grenade crunches, how to proceed, you need to turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, then do the same to the left. There was a crunch when you turned to the right, which means the right outer grenade is faulty, a crunch when turning left means the left outer grenade.
If the internal grenade malfunctions, the question arises: which one, how to determine the failure? To do this, we choose a road surface with bumps and holes so that the wheel drops as low as possible, and drive the car straight. We listen to the sounds, alternately driving either the left or the right front wheel into the hole, and by ear we determine which grenade is crunching.
Raise the car on a lift. Engage first gear so that the wheels can rotate while suspended. If the grenade malfunctions, you will hear a hinge crunch.

We found out what, how and in what place a grenade “clicks”. All that remains is to start replacing the damaged CV joint. This can be done at a car repair shop or you can carry out the repair yourself if you have the appropriate experience. There are three basic rules, when followed, the car’s drive will last a long time.

Avoid jumping off.
Do not accelerate by turning the steering wheel.
Inspect the anthers periodically.

The CV joint wears out quickly under significant loads and dirt. Take care of your car.

Front-wheel drive cars have in their design such elements as constant velocity joints, or, in short, CV joints. On the VAZ-2109, replacing these elements is quite simple, but you will need a little experience and special tools. Without this, repairs are unlikely to be possible. It is also advisable to purchase new elements in advance - depending on what financial capabilities you have, you can buy complete drives or separate CV joints (they are also called grenades for their external resemblance to this weapon).

When is it necessary to replace the outer CV joint on a VAZ 2109

General view of the outer CV joint of the VAZ 2109 car

The constant velocity joint (CV joint) is designed to transmit torque to the drive wheel of the vehicle from the gearbox. This indicates that it is very important to maintain the unit in good condition; if its parts wear out, it is necessary to install new elements or completely replace the outer CV joint on the VAZ 2109. The VAZ 2109 car is equipped with two types of CV joints:

Internal, which transmits torque from the transmission to the shaft.
External, engaging with the wheel hub.

On a VAZ 2109 car, the outer element often fails, so it needs to be changed much more often than the inner one. This article suggests that you get acquainted with the rules and procedure for carrying out work to restore the normal operation of the outer CV joint with your own hands.

CV joints in a VAZ 2109 car

After front-wheel drive cars began to be produced, the question arose about effectively ensuring equality of angular velocities of the shafts - driving and driven. Further use of a crosspiece with four needle bearings in the cardan drive led to an increase in the dimensions of the unit, the price of the structure increased, and the torque began to be transmitted with great vibration; the greater the angle between the shafts, the stronger it was. Initially, the intended service life of CV joints is similar to the service life of a car, but after the start of operation it was revealed that wear still exists and the outer part of the unit wears out more. The use of a moisture- and frost-resistant material with good flexibility for the manufacture of the CV joint boot made it possible to protect the CV joints from rapid wear. But, nevertheless, the action of external factors, such as moisture, abrasive, constant deformations lead to a limitation of the service life of CV joints. In addition, there is a possibility that during operation and repair the boot may be damaged. Cracks may form on the protective rubber band, which is unacceptable for normal operation of the unit. The defect of the shaft and its curvature are less noticeable to the naked eye, but the use of the part in the future is unacceptable. Therefore, it is periodically necessary to monitor the condition of the outer CV joint on a VAZ 2109 vehicle, and, if necessary, carry out its timely repair or replacement.

How to disassemble the outer joint of a VAZ 2109 car

If you hear knocking noises in the front-wheel drive when cornering, you need to check the constant velocity joints. The presence of play when shaking the drive shaft by hand, or a torn boot indicates that the outer CV joint of the VAZ 2109 needs to be replaced. The design of the unit is quite complex, the parts are not interchangeable; when the boot breaks, dirt gets into the joint and renders it unusable. Therefore, the best option would be to replace the external CV joint of the VAZ 2109. However, if the protective cover is damaged, the lubricant needs to be replaced, and the joint is disassembled to assess the condition of the parts. To do this, the CV joint is disconnected from the car, and then:

Using a special device, remove the clamps in the photo, positions 5 and 9, holding the protective cover pos. 8, which then moves on the wheel drive shaft. If the right wheel drive needs to be tightened or unscrewed.

Outer CV joint for VAZ 2109

The joint is knocked off the shaft using a drift or hammer. In this case, force is applied to the clip pos. 3.

Advice: Do not attach pos. 2 load.

The hinge is washed.

Elements of the outer CV joint of the VAZ 2109

Positions: 1 – body; 2 – hinge separator, 3 – outer CV joint cage; 4 – balls.

Tip: Before you start disassembling the product, you need to note the relative position of all parts of the assembly, except for the balls. For this, paint or touchstone is used.

The outer hinge is secured in a vice.
The cage and separator are tilted so that one ball comes out of the groove of the CV joint housing as much as possible.
The soft metal ball is squeezed out of the separator using a screwdriver.
All parts are rotated so that the adjacent ball is in the same position.
All the balls are pulled out. They can be pulled out in a different sequence - through one.

Advice: Do not allow too much force to rotate the separator. This can lead to blocking of the balls and difficulty in further disassembling the assembly.

The separator with the cage is installed so that the elongated windows of the separator are located against the protrusions of the structure body.
The separator is pulled out along with the holder.
The clip is removed from the separator. To do this, a clip protrusion is placed in the elongated window of the separator, which is then rolled out.

Tip: If the separator has identical windows in the outer hinge, then for its removal it does not matter which window to use.

All CV joint parts are washed again.
Their condition is visually inspected. There should be no cracks on the separator bridges, there should be no deep holes on the race tracks, large scuffs, or corrosion on all working surfaces of CV joint parts. The maximum wear on the working surfaces of the elements should not exceed 0.1 millimeter.
If it is not possible to replace the outer CV joints of a part on a VAZ 2109 car, the entire assembly is replaced.

Assembling the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2109 car

The order of work is the reverse of disassembly, taking into account the following operations:

All parts must be lubricated with CV joint grease before assembly.
When installing a separator with a cage into the hinge body, ensure that the marks that were made before disassembling the unit match.
Installation of balls into the separator must be done by tilting the cage approximately at an angle twice as large as the separator.
The hinge is filled with CV joint-4 lubricant, volume 40 cm3.
A new retaining ring is installed strictly in the center of the shaft into the groove. The groove is filled with grease.
The shaft rests against the cage, while it is necessary to maintain the alignment of the ring relative to the cage and the shaft.
The end of the shaft is sharply hit with a hammer so that the retaining ring is compressed and slips through the hole in the cage.
“Excess” air is released from the cover. To do this, use a screwdriver to pull the seating belt of the cover away from the drive shaft.
Mounting clamps are installed.
The presence of cracks in the area of fixation and tightening with clamps, deformations, and traces of contact of clamps with the road surface are checked. If they are present, the clamps are replaced with new ones.
After completing the work, the CV joint should turn without jamming, smoothly with hand effort.

Replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2109 car

The instructions for car care for the VAZ 2109 suggest removing the outer CV joint on the raised part of the car and the removed wheel on the VAZ 2109. So:

The hub nut needs to be unscrewed.
Remove crankcase protection.
Disconnect the ball joint from the lower suspension arm. If it is pressed in, both the support and the lever are unscrewed at the same time.
Remove the ball joint.

The ball joint is removed

The rack is moved to the side, while the CV joint must be bent. The pulley that enters the hub bearing must be at an angle to the drive shaft.
The hinge shaft on which the splines are located must be knocked out of the bearing from the outside of the wheel. A metal spacer is used for this.
The boot is removed.
The grenade gets knocked off the drive shaft.
All old grease is removed. An aerosol like WD-40 will help make this operation easier.

Advice: Replacing the outer CV joints of the VAZ 2109 is carried out simultaneously with replacing the rings - the retaining and thrust rings located inside the grenade. The entire assembly is lubricated generously with lubricant.

Having installed the new CV joint on the drive shaft, it must be centered so that the fork fits in smoothly without jamming.
Perform final pressing of the drive shaft.
Install the hinge into the seat.
Squeeze the boot with a clamp.
Reassembling the entire assembly is done in reverse order.

How the outer CV joint is replaced on a VAZ 2109 car can be clearly seen in the video. Timely work to ensure the normal operation of CV joints will ensure reliable operation of the VAZ 2109, and the cost of subsequent repairs will be reduced.

Signs of CV joint malfunctions

Most often, the outer CV joint of the VAZ-2109 is replaced, since its resource is approximately three times less than that of the internal one. But the repair algorithm is generally similar.

Even to install new boots, you will need to completely dismantle the drive - it’s much more convenient to work this way. To determine if grenades are damaged, you need to do the following:

Turn the steering wheel to the left all the way.
Drive away and listen for any extraneous sounds.
Turn the steering wheel to the right all the way, then drive off again and listen to the sounds.

If a characteristic crunch appears, you need to change the grenade. It is useless to repair it - these elements cannot be restored. If both CV joints are faulty - internal and external, then it will be easier to install a new drive assembly. At least there won't be any problems knocking down old grenades.

Replacement of outer and inner CV joints

The VAZ 2109, unlike its predecessors, has front-wheel drive. In its design, to transmit torque from the gearbox to the wheels, instead of a rear axle gearbox, the so-called CV joint (colloquially “Grenade”) is used. Since this mechanism is constantly in motion, its components quickly heat up. Therefore, to remove the temperature in the “grenade”, a special lubricant is used. And to ensure that dust does not fall on the part and the lubricant does not quickly become clogged, special boots are used - casings that protect the “grenade” from contamination.

By design, the car has two CV joints and two boots - external and internal. The external ones are installed on the hub, and the internal ones - in the gearbox mechanism. In general, this part is designed for quite a long service life, but, like all parts and mechanisms of a car, it may require repair or replacement. Read on to learn how to make the replacement yourself.

Symptoms and causes of failure

In order to determine without diagnostics whether the “grenade” is broken or not, you just need to listen to the car. If while driving, especially when turning, you hear a characteristic noise or knocking noise from the front wheel, then your “grenade” needs replacement. And it needs to be done as soon as possible, otherwise the consequences could be catastrophic.

In order to make sure that the “diagnosis” is correct, you can check the play on the drive shaft. Try to rock it a little with your hand, and the play will be immediately noticeable. When checking the boot, everything is much simpler. Turn the front wheel in any direction until it stops and inspect it for cracks or leaks. If they are, then both boots must be replaced.

Interior

Replacing the internal CV joint of a VAZ 2109 is carried out if the following parts and tools are available:

Vise;
A set of keys;
Hammer;
Jack.

First of all, completely remove the drive from the car and secure it in a vice.
To remove the boot, you will need to remove the CV joint clamps. After this procedure is completed, you can begin to remove the part itself. Using a hammer, give the part a few firm blows to force it out of the mount. At the end of this part there is a plastic tip. It must be carefully removed for subsequent installation on a new “grenade”. Before replacing, all fasteners, and the CV joint itself, must be lubricated with a special lubricant. Next, carefully put the new part back onto the drive. To do this, use a hammer and a wooden block so as not to damage the part.

Next comes the installation of the boot. It must be installed at a distance of approximately 20 mm from the “grenade”. After installation, secure with clamps.

External

Replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2109 is mainly done without removing the drive. To do this, the front wheels need to be jacked up and the front of the car placed on special supports. The wheels must be suspended so that the drive can rotate freely.

Next, unscrew the screws securing the wheel, remove it, and turn the steering wheel all the way in any direction. Disconnect the pivot pin from the splined end of the grenade. Unscrew the nuts securing the boot and remove it. Carefully knock out the inner CV joint from the gearbox, followed by the outer one. The drive must remain in place and locked.

Now, the CV joint can be replaced, or preventive maintenance can be done by washing it with gasoline. If damage is visible on it, then replacement is simply necessary. While replacing the internal grenade, insert a temporary plug into the gearbox hole, but do not secure it. After the replacement is completed, remove the internal “grenade” and install the external one in its place. Reassemble completely and insert the CV joint back.

After everything is in place, put the wheel back, and before driving, check the operation of the steering wheel. If the steering wheel turns normally, all the way, and is not accompanied by a crunching sound, then you have done everything correctly.

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Drive diagnostics

But a crunch can also appear when other suspension elements - balls, rod ends, bearings - are destroyed. Therefore, before replacing the CV joint on a VAZ-2109 with your own hands, do a complete diagnosis of the suspension and chassis. It is quite possible that it is not only grenades that will need to be repaired. In general, the diagnosis looks like this:

Place the car on a viewing hole, overpass, or lift. It needs to be secured securely so that it does not roll off.
Using a mounting spatula, check the drive play - if it is large, you can hear the balls knocking when moving, you will need to change the element.
At the same time, check the condition of the ball joint - their reliability is not very high, and the roads leave much to be desired.
Visually inspect the condition of the anthers on all grenades - they determine how long the drives will last.

Replacement instructions and Video!

The reason for replacing a part of the internal CV joint on your VAZ-2109 may be the sound of a “crunch” heard when turning on the highway. A part of constant velocity joints - CV joint, like any car component, has a tendency to wear out. You can check the condition of the CV joint by bleeding the drive axle shaft. If you feel noticeable play or find damage to the CV joint cover, this part will have to be replaced.

A CV joint can only be disassembled and repaired if you are very poor and have solid technological skills. In all other cases, it is recommended to replace this part as a whole, assembled. Damage to the CV joint can be caused either by natural wear or as a result of foreign objects getting inside after its cover is damaged. It is worth noting that the components of this assembly are not mutually interchangeable. Also, a sign of the need to replace the CV joint may be traces of grease on its cover or on the area connecting the gearbox and the drive half of the axle. Let's look at how the operation to replace a CV joint on a VAZ 2109 model is performed:

Before starting work on changing the CV joint, remove the entire front drive assembly of your wheel.

Fix the removed axle shaft in a prepared vice. This way you will get ample access to the parts of the fastening clamps (internal and external) of this unit. Remove the mounting clamps.

Move the protective cover towards the inner end of the axle shaft and turn the cover over to the reverse side.

The entire CV joint must be removed from the axle shaft using a knockout device. Force must be applied to the clip of the part being removed.

Please note that there is a plastic plug at the end of the inner end of the axle shaft. Do not forget to check for its presence when reassembling the unit, when you install the drive shaft in its place.

Check the presence and level of lubricant in the CV joint assembly being placed. Its quantity should be about 80 cm3. If the amount of lubricant is low, replenish it.

It is necessary to install the CV joint assembly without hitting it very hard with a hammer through a wooden spacer. The direction of influence should be directed towards the outer end of the axle shaft. The signal for the end of the impact will be the fixation of the CV joint assembly. During installation, do not allow dirt to enter the CV joint assembly.

Before installing the CV joint protection cover, use a flat blade screwdriver to press out its edge. Once air gets inside, the cover will expand.

When installing the boot of the inner CV joint, maintain a distance of 21 centimeters between the near edge of the boot and the inner edge of the shank. Tighten the fixing clamps using special pliers.

Repair tool

To independently remove CV joints on a nine or any other car, you need to have the following tool on hand:

A socket wrench for “30” or a socket with a strong wrench.
Hammer and chisel.
Balloon wrench.
Set of spanners and sockets.
Penetrating lubricant such as WD-40.
Capacity of at least 5 liters.
Marker or metal scriber.
Jack, support and wheel chocks.

You may also need a grinder, drill, drill bits, and other attributes. The work can be complicated if the drives have never been removed - the threaded connections become dirty, which complicates disassembly.

Installing new hinges

And the final stage remains - installing new hinges on the drive. You already know almost everything about how to change a grenade on a VAZ-2109. All that remains is to install a new element.

First, wash the shaft, get rid of dust and lubricant residues, then put on a new boot. Next, perform the following manipulations:

Install a new retaining ring.
Carefully, trying not to damage it, place the grenade on the shaft. To make it sit down, you need to apply several sharp blows through the wood spacer.
Apply lubricant under the boot and on the inside of the hinge. By the way, the kit comes with a small amount, it is recommended to add a little more.
Secure the boot with two clamps.

Once you have assembled the entire drive, you can begin installing it on the car. The work is done in reverse order. First put the inner CV joint in place, then the outer one.

Tighten the nut and secure it with a chisel. To prevent corrosion, you can apply a small amount of Litol to the nut and close it with a cap. Now you know how to change a grenade on a VAZ-2109 yourself. The procedure will not take much time, but you can save a lot of money. Workshops will charge about the same amount for repairs as a set of hinges costs (about 1,000 rubles).

Preparatory work

Before replacing the CV joint boot or the grenade itself, you need to perform several preparatory steps. Without this, withdrawal is impossible. Please note that you cannot remove both inner joints at the same time - this will lead to destruction of the differential mechanism.

If the bevel gears fall off, you will have to remove the gearbox and completely disassemble it. Preparation includes the following steps:

Complete or partial drainage of oil from the gearbox. When removing the internal CV joints, oil will spill out; to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to drain at least 2/3 of the total volume.
Unlocking the front wheel hub nut (or both, if two drives need to be repaired).
Loosening the hub nut and wheel bolts. The hub must be unscrewed using a 30mm wrench with a large lever.
Removing the wheel after installing the side to be repaired on the jack and support.

Having completed the preparatory work, you can begin directly replacing the VAZ-2109 CV joint.

What is a grenade?

A grenade is the colloquial name for a constant velocity joint, which allows motion to be transmitted from the vehicle's gearbox to the wheels. Pay attention to the design of the car's drive. From the gearbox, consisting of shafts and a differential, there are two rods, at the ends of which there are moving elements (CV joints). They allow movement to be transmitted to wheels that are lower than the differential axis.

It is with the help of movable hinges that it is possible to realize the rotation of the front wheels. Essentially, this is a kind of crosspiece that is installed on the cardan shafts. But the grenade is much stronger and more durable. Why a grenade? Yes, it’s just that this element is very similar to this projectile and nothing more. Consists of three parts - outer and inner cages, balls between them. A special lubricant is pressed inside.

How to remove the drive

In order to remove the drive assembly, you need to perform the following steps:

Completely unscrew the nut on the outer joint to free the hub.
Remove the nuts from the bolts that secure the strut to the hub steering knuckle. This will allow you to move the hub to free the joint. But it will be much more efficient not to unscrew the nuts on the strut, but to disconnect the ball joint.
If you unscrewed the ball joint, you need to remove the tie rod end pin from the hole in the strut knuckle. This is done using a special puller.
Now you need to pull the outer joint out of the hole in the hub. How to do this depends on the situation. You can use a thin drift, but without fanaticism, so as not to damage the mechanisms. You should also not hit the CV joint axle with a hammer - this will cause the edges to flatten and make it impossible to remove the element.
After you pull out the outer joint, you can proceed to the inner one - to remove it from the hole in the gearbox, just apply a few light blows with a small chisel. You can also use a mounting spatula.

That's all, now the drive has been completely removed, you also need to learn how to remove the CV joint on a VAZ-2109.

Self-replacement of the VAZ 2108 CV joint at home

The need to replace the CV joint (grenade) arises after knocking and crunching noises appear in the front part of the car in the wheel area, especially when cornering and when driving over uneven surfaces. The breakdown is unpleasant and most motorists immediately go to a service station to replace the faulty CV joint.

However, as practice shows, replacing a VAZ 2108 CV joint is not as difficult as it seems at first glance; the work is quite dirty, but its complexity is not comparable to replacing brake pads, which most car owners change with their own hands. It will take you no more than 2 hours to do everything. To make sure that the cause of the crunching is precisely the “grenade,” perform several simple tests. Grasp the CV joint with your hand and try to loosen it; if you feel significant play, an urgent replacement of the CV joint is necessary.

To work you will need:

A set of keys;
Jack;
Mount;
Hammer and handle made of soft metal;
New CV joint VAZ 2108 + boot and clamps;
Grease for CV joints.

How to replace a VAZ 2108 CV joint with your own hands - step-by-step instructions with informative photos.

As always, the first step is to install the wheel chocks and engage second gear.
Then you need to loosen (tear off) the wheel nuts, as well as the hub nut.
Install a jack and jack up the side of the car from which the CV joint will be replaced.
Unscrew the nuts completely and remove the wheel.

Unscrew the two bolts securing the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Turn the steering wheel as far as possible to the left (or to the right, depending on which side you are changing from).
By pulling the steering knuckle with the strut, pull the splined end of the CV joint from the hub.

Using a pry bar, remove the inner CV joint of the VAZ 2108 from the gearbox.
Using a vice, secure the drive shaft, then remove the clamps and CV joint boot.
Now it is necessary to knock the CV joint out of the shaft; for this I used a hammer and a soft metal attachment (copper or bronze).

11. When the old CV joint is removed, you can begin installing the new one.

12. Put on a new boot, fill the shaft with grease (as in the photo), then drive the CV joint onto the splines.

13. Using pliers, clamp the boot clamp on the drive shaft, and use a screwdriver to unscrew the outer edge of the boot, and only then clamp the outer clamp.

14. Install a new locking spline on the splines, then install the drive into the gearbox. In order for it to fit tightly into the grooves and lock into the side gear, using a wooden adapter and a hammer, lightly hit several times along the entire axis of the shaft.

All further actions are performed in reverse order. I recommend replacing the old hub nut with a new one.

That's all for me. Now that you know how to replace a VAZ 2108 CV joint with your own hands, I am sure that you can easily do this work yourself if necessary. Thank you for your attention.

I recommend watching the video on how to replace a VAZ 2108 CV joint with your own hands:

vaz-remont.ru

Replacing CV joints

The most important thing now is to knock down the old hinge (or both, if you are also changing the internal one). To do this, you will need to firmly clamp the drive itself in a vice so that the hinge to be removed is directed downward. Apply sharp and strong blows with a hammer to knock down the hinge. If you are only replacing the anthers, try to carry out all work carefully so as not to damage the elements.

But if troubles arise when replacing a VAZ-2109 CV joint and the old joint does not want to come loose, you will need to take extreme measures. Using a grinder, you need to cut the outer casing to free the entire inner part. After this, you will have access to the retaining ring on the drive, removing which you can completely disassemble the element.

Installing new hinges is done in the reverse order. First, install the anthers, then the locking ring and put on the grenade. Gently hit it through the wooden spacer so that it locks onto the ring. The drive is installed without any special features.

How to replace a CV joint on a VAZ-2109

Any experienced car mechanic is ready to say that replacing the VAZ-2109 CV joint may be necessary for a large number of reasons.
CV joint - constant velocity joint. The need for replacement requires immediate action at the slightest suspicion, because the safety of passengers depends on the integrity of this unit.

Determining the malfunction

First of all, when driving, there may be extraneous noise from the front. First you need to make sure that the CV joint boots are not torn and there are no cracks or oily marks on the surface. To check, just turn the steering wheel all the way and carry out a visual inspection behind the wheel.

Found any damage? Change the boot immediately so that stones, small particles, and water do not subsequently get into the CV joint mechanism. Otherwise, the hinge will quickly become unusable.

It is quite easy to determine the need to replace the hinge itself - during turning maneuvers the driver notices characteristic knocking noises. The presence of play during swinging of the drive shaft will help confirm this fact.

Before starting work

First of all, put the car on the handbrake and place wheel chocks under the rear wheels. While the car is not raised, unscrew the hub nut and first remove the protective cap. Keep in mind that this knot is quite tightly tightened, and it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it. Already at this step you can slightly loosen the wheel bolts.

Actually, replacing the CV joint

Now, in a step-by-step diagram, we will look at the entire work process:

Raise the front of the car and place the body on supports. The bolts are unscrewed and the wheels are removed, and the hub nut stop washer is also removed.
The stage of disassembling the steering tip is suitable. The bolts are removed from the bottom of the steering knuckle, the steering wheel is turned to the side where the part is changed until it stops.
Now you need to pull out the spitz end of the outer CV joint from the VAZ-2109, only after the strut and steering knuckle have already been pulled out. Next, push out the inner CV joint, which is attached to the gearbox. To do this, it is better to use a mount.

It is important to note that if work is performed on all CV joints, after removing one drive, place a lock in the box. An old internal CV joint can serve as a device. This is done to ensure that there is no displacement of the gears. Otherwise, it will not be possible to put the new part in its place.

Check for traces of oil in the gearbox area - if there are any, then the CV joint seals will need to be replaced.
Clamp the drive shaft with a vice, remove the clamps from the hinges and remove the boots if they are still intact. Torn covers are simply cut off with a knife.
Take a hammer and a drift. Knock the joints off the shaft, applying all your force to the joint cage. The same steps are performed for the outer CV joint.
After dismantling the part being replaced, installing the new hinge is done in the reverse order.

If you only need to change the boots, do not forget to wash the joint (gasoline is suitable for this). This way you will get rid of dirt and old grease. The new protection must be placed on the shaft, but remember that the length of the left and right is different. It is important to place the anthers as intended. When replacing the protection, it is advisable to replace the lubricant in the hinge and also check that there is enough of it there.

Possible malfunctions

In common parlance, many VAZ owners call the unit in question a “grenade” - this is exactly what it looks like in appearance.

Most often, CV joints break after the boots are damaged. In this case, dirt, sand, etc. begin to get into them. Foreign particles quickly destroy the assembly, and, of course, it has to be replaced.

If a damaged boot is detected in a timely manner, then in most cases serious trouble can be avoided. After replacing it, all that remains is to wash the CV joint and return it to its place. When the problem remains out of sight of the VAZ car owner, then there is a high probability that the grenade will become unusable literally after 2-3 hundred kilometers.

A sign of CV joint failure is a characteristic sound reminiscent of crunching gravel. It occurs exclusively when turning and accelerating. Such a signal is the basis for an urgent inspection of the hinge and its replacement.

Fortunately, the new element is relatively cheap and is sold in almost any auto store. However, you should not experiment - take only parts made strictly for the VAZ-2109.

How to remove a vaz shruz

Having determined that it is the external grenade that is broken, we begin to remove it.

How to unscrew the hub nut on a VAZ?

First of all, unscrew the hub nut. To do this, take a 30mm head and a lever, the larger the better. We put bricks under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling (simply putting it in gear is not an option, the wheel will spin) and begin to unscrew the hub nut.

In this matter, the more you weigh, the better, since I very often lacked my weight and leverage of about one and a half meters. I got out of the situation in the following way: I stood completely on the lever, as close to the edge as possible, thereby giving maximum tension to the nut, and hit the lever with a hammer. Usually this method helped me unscrew even the most soured wheel nuts.

One more nuance: if the outer walls of the head come into contact with the walls of the hub, it is better to lubricate the head with mining or lithol, or, in extreme cases, with silicone grease. Thanks to this trick, the head will not bite in the hub.

How to remove a grenade?

The hub nut is unscrewed, now we remove the wheel, unscrew the two bolts that hold the ball joint, disconnect the suspension arm and the hub, move it to the side of the car while lightly tapping the grenade, remove it from the hub. At this point, two options are possible:

The grenade is already broken.
Replacing the grenade due to its crunching sound.

In the first case, you simply remove the outer part of the CV joint from the shaft, then the retaining ring from the drive shaft and knock off the cage with a hammer.

In the second case, removing the CV joint becomes more difficult. You need to deflect the grenade relative to the shaft at the maximum angle so that the bearing balls and their cage are visible.

Now use a hammer to break the jumpers of the cage between the bearing balls and take out the balls one by one. When you take out the last ball, you can remove the body of the grenade, and then its inner part sitting on the shaft, after first removing the locking ring from the shaft.

Of course, you can simply try to knock the grenade off the shaft, but due to the locking ring this will be problematic.

That's it, the CV joint is completely removed. Now let's start installing the new part.

Jack;
Wheel bolt wrench;
Power wrench;
Ratchet driver;
Steering and ball pin remover;
Head at seventeen, thirty;
Magnet;
Hammer;
Oil collection container;
Mounting lever;
Vise;
Slotted screwdriver;
Dull wire cutters;
Engine cleaner in aerosol;
The extension is sharpened to a cone;
Torque wrench.

Loosen the wheel bolts, jack up and remove the wheel.
Remove the cap and unscrew the hub nut using a 30 mm socket. When unscrewing the nut, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal. You can also remove the nut while the car is on its wheels.

Use a magnet to remove the washer that is placed behind the hub nut.
Unscrew the nut securing the steering joint to the shock absorber. Head nut for seventeen. Use a puller to squeeze your finger out of your ear. If you don’t have a puller, you can hit the end of the eye where the finger is inserted several times with a hammer. Unscrew the two bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle and move it to the side.

Remove the outer grenade from the splined part of the wheel bearing.

Place a container to collect the oil and remove the internal grenade from the manual transmission. To remove the grenade, insert the mounting lever into the cut in the drive housing and manual transmission. Next, tap the lever with a hammer until the grenade moves.

Pull the inner grenade out of the box and remove the drive shaft.

Remove the boot from the grenade by opening the clamps in advance. The clamps can be opened with a slotted screwdriver.

Grab the slotted part of the grenade with one hand and use a hammer to hit the outer body of the grenade with the other hand. After two or three hits the grenade will be in your hand.

Remove the old boot from the shaft and clean the spline part of the old grease. Fill the new CV joint with grease and, if necessary, replace the retaining ring on the shaft. Place the boot on the shaft with the narrow side facing inward.

Checking the condition of the CV joint

To carry out diagnostics it is necessary to use several methods. After all, you need to determine whether the VAZ-2109 CV joint needs to be replaced. The very first is the appearance of a crunch when cornering. As a rule, this is a sign that the outer hinge is very worn and requires replacement. In addition, a similar crunching noise may occur when reversing. This is not fatal, but it is also not very pleasant, since you have to forget about a comfortable ride.

The main thing when diagnosing is not to confuse the symptoms with those that occur when certain suspension elements break down. For example, when moving in a straight line, only heavily worn joints will crunch. The most common cause of such sounds is the ball joint. A more detailed picture can be obtained if the car is placed on a lift and the entire suspension is suspended. In this position, you can determine what kind of play the hinge has, and whether there is a knock in the ball joint. In addition, this position is most convenient when replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ-2109.

You can talk endlessly about how to change joints correctly, what lubricant to use, which manufacturer you should trust. In fact, the most suitable components are those whose manufacturers supply them to the AvtoVAZ plant. When replacing the external CV joint of a VAZ-2109, preference should be given to the manufacturer who supplies them to the plant. As practice shows, the service life of these elements turns out to be higher than that of foreign analogues. No matter how much they scold our auto industry, the reliability of domestic units is an order of magnitude higher than the vaunted German or Italian ones.

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