Lada Vesta generator belt with air conditioner size

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What belts are installed on the Lada Vesta

The size of alternator straps on Lada Vesta may vary depending on the specific modification. There are different versions for cars equipped with and without air conditioning systems. So, for Vesta with air conditioning, modification 6РК1039 is used, and for those without such an option - 6РК778. Contitech and Gates companies are official suppliers for AvtoVAZ for the installation of alternator drive belts.

The tension and support rollers deserve special attention. They provide the necessary level of tension so that the strap does not fly off, but allows the generator to produce the maximum possible charge for the on-board electrical network. If these parts are made with high quality, then they do not require adjustment for a long time.

Removal and installation of the Lada Vesta car generator

Technical characteristics of the generator TG 12C209 f. Valeo:

Maximum output current (at 14 V and 6000 min-1), A 120

Engine-generator gear ratio 2.4

Generator type TG 12C209 f. "Valeo" alternating current, three-phase, with a built-in rectifier unit and voltage regulator, right-hand rotation (drive side), designed to operate as a source of electrical energy in parallel with the battery in the electrical system of a vehicle, designed for operation at ambient temperatures from - 40 to +45˚С and humidity up to 90% at a temperature of +27˚С.

Removal

For cars of all trim levels

Place the vehicle in the workplace and apply the parking brake.

Turn off the ignition, raise the hood, disconnect the earth wire terminal from the battery.

Remove the right front wheel.

Raise the car to a height convenient for doing the work.

Remove the right front fender shield.

Remove the engine splash guard.

Remove belt 5, Figure 1, of the attachment drive.

For vehicles with engine 21129 and air conditioning system

Unscrew the three bolts 1, Figure 2, fastenings, remove the compressor 2 of the air conditioning system without violating the tightness of the system, and hang it on a technological hook (used: replaceable head 10, knob, technological hook).

For cars of all trim levels

Remove the protective cap, unscrew nut 1, Figure 3, fasteners and disconnect terminal 2 of the wiring harness from the generator 5 (use: replaceable head for 13, extension cord, wrench).

Disconnect the 3 wire harness connector from the generator.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the four bolts 1, Figure 4, fastenings and remove the generator 2.

Installation

For cars of all trim levels

Install the generator 2, Figure 4, on the bracket 3 of the mounted units and secure with four bolts 1. The tightening torque of the generator mounting bolts is 21…27 Nm (2.1…2.7 kgf.m) (used: replaceable head 10, wrench, torque wrench ).

Connect the harness block 3, Figure 3, of the wires to the generator.

Connect terminal 2 of the wiring harness to generator 5 and screw in fastening nut 1.

The tightening torque of the terminal fastening nut is 18…24 Nm (1.8…2.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, extension, wrench, torque wrench).

Place the protective cap on the terminal fastening nut.

For vehicles with engine 21129 and air conditioning system

Install the compressor 2, Figure 2, of the air conditioning system on the bracket of the mounted units and secure with three bolts 1. The tightening torque of the compressor mounting bolts is 21…27 Nm (2.1…2.7 kgf.m) (replaceable head 10, knob, torque wrench) .

For cars of all trim levels

Install belt 5, Figure 1, for drive of mounted units.

Install the engine splash guard.

Install the right front fender shield.

Install the right front wheel.

Self-replacement of parts

The procedure for replacing the belt drive on Vesta is made difficult by the compact arrangement of the units in the engine compartment. Access to the belts is limited by the closely located side member of the body, so the removal of additional elements is required.

To complete the work you will need:

lift or inspection hole,
additional supports to support the power plant.

Carrying out the work requires knowledge of the car's design; if the owner does not have repair skills, it is recommended to transfer the car to a specialized service center.

Required Tools

A set of tools required when replacing timing drive parts on a VAZ Vesta:

10, 13, 15 and 17 mm socket wrench;
17 mm spanner;
hex key size 5 mm;
Torx heads T30, T55 and E12 and a key for installing the nozzle;
hydraulic or mechanical jack;
set of flat blade screwdrivers;
an original key for changing the position of the tension roller (it is permissible to use a tool to remove the retaining rings);
mounting blade.

Preparing the car

Open the hood of the car and remove the decorative plastic cover.
Remove the protective fender liner installed in the arch of the right front fender.
De-energize the on-board network by removing the terminal from the negative pole of the battery.
To access the mounting points, you need to jack up the car and then remove the wheel.
Install a safety support under the body sill to prevent the vehicle from falling if the jack slips or breaks.
Using a 10 mm socket, unscrew the bolts securing the protective screen located under the engine.
Loosen the bolt securing the pulley to the engine crankshaft. To perform the operation, you will need the help of a second person who presses the brake pedal.

If there is no assistant, then you need to unscrew the 3 mounting bolts and then remove the starter. To fix the crankshaft, use a screwdriver, which is inserted into the gap between the clutch housing and the ring gear on the flywheel.

Place a jack under the engine crankcase, having previously installed a wooden spacer, and then remove the cover of the auxiliary drive belt tension roller. To reduce the tension, use a Torx T55 wrench and turn the roller bracket clockwise.
Unscrew the bolts securing the engine mount; the power unit must be lowered to the ground by 50-70 mm, which will allow you to dismantle the roller and remove the belt from the pulleys. It is recommended to inspect the parts; if worn, a new set (belt and roller) is installed.

Removing the timing belt on VAZ 21129 and 21179 engines

The procedure for removing worn parts on a VAZ-21129 engine:

To change the belt, you will need to unscrew 5 bolts securing the top plastic cover covering the timing drive.
Unscrew the bolt and remove the pulley from the engine crankshaft; under the part there is a guide disk, which is also removed from the machine. When removing, it is necessary to control the position of the pulley, which can damage the shaft position sensor.
Remove the 3 bolts securing the bottom of the protective screen.
Set the timing marks, turn the engine crankshaft using a bolt with a set of spacer washers screwed into the toe of the crankshaft. It is possible to rotate the shaft by rotating the suspended wheel when 5th gear is engaged. There are marks on the camshaft gears that align with mating parts on the rear of the belt guard. To fix the camshaft gears, devices made of polyurethane bushings with a bolt are used.
Check the alignment of the mark on the crankshaft gear with the counter rib on the oil pump housing. Loosen the bolt securing the tension roller; the mechanism will rotate automatically under the force of the tensioned drive.
Pull the belt off the pulleys; if further use of the part is planned, then a mark is first applied to it indicating the direction of movement during operation. If you plan to replace a part, then a set of rollers (tensioner and intermediate) is installed at the same time.
Check the condition of the pump; if bearing play or antifreeze leakage is detected, the unit must be replaced. Before removing the pump, the coolant is drained from the engine jacket (through a special hole in the block).

Replacing the drive belt of the Lada Vesta generator with a VAZ-21129 engine

We remove the belt to replace it or during work related to replacing drive units, as well as when replacing the timing belt

We place the car on a lift or inspection hole. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove the right wheel.

Remove the mudguard 1 (Figure 1) of the right front fender.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew thirteen bolts 1 (Figure 2) and remove the engine protection.

If a manual transmission is installed then:

— with a 13-point head, unscrew the two bolts 1 (Figure 3), and remove the clutch slave cylinder and hang it on the hook without disconnecting the hydraulic drive tubes 3.

If the car does not have air conditioning then:

— using a TorxE10 head, unscrew three bolts 1 (Figure 4), and remove bracket 2 for fastening the clutch cylinder (for cars with a manual transmission), remove starter 3 without disconnecting the terminal and connector of the wiring harnesses suitable for the starter, and hang it on a wire.

We install a device for locking the flywheel into the holes for the starter mounting bolts on the gearbox.

If the car is equipped with an air conditioner (with a tension roller for the accessory drive belt), then:

— remove the tension roller plug, loosen nut 1, Figure 5, fastenings and move tension roller 2 counterclockwise to the upper position (use a 13mm socket and a TorxT55 socket).

If the car does not have air conditioning then:

— unscrew bolt 7 of the damper fastening, carefully remove washer 8 and damper 6 of the crankshaft (use a 17 socket).

Next, remove the belt.

Installing the accessory drive belt

For vehicles without air conditioning:

Install the damper and washer onto the crankshaft and secure with a bolt. The tightening torque of the damper mounting bolt is 95…115 Nm (9.5…11.5 kgf.m) (replaceable head 17, ratchet wrench, torque wrench).

Install mounting tool 67.7834-9703 onto the damper pulley (tool 67.7834-9703 for installing the elastic accessory drive belt).

Install the belt on the generator pulley and put it on the damper through tool 67.7834-9703.

Rotating the damper by the head of the fastening bolt in the clockwise direction ¾ of a turn, put the belt on the grooves of the damper (ring key 17).

Stop rotating the damper after releasing tool 67.7834-9703 from the belt and remove the tool from the damper pulley.

Install the starter 3, Figure 4, and bracket 2 for fastening the clutch hydraulic cylinder (for vehicles with a manual transmission) and secure with three bolts 1. The bolt tightening torque is 18…24 Nm (1.8…2.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head Torx E10 , extension cord, ratchet wrench, torque wrench).

For vehicles with manual transmission additionally

Install cylinder 2, Figure 3, of the hydraulic clutch and secure with two bolts 1. The tightening torque of the bolts is 18…24 Nm (1.8…2.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, ratchet wrench, torque wrench).

For vehicles without air conditioning

Install mudguard 2, Figure 2, of the engine and tighten thirteen fastening bolts 1 (replaceable head 10, wrench and extension).

For vehicles with air conditioning (with accessory drive belt tensioner pulley)

Install belt 5, Figure 5, of the attachment drive in the following sequence:

— crankshaft damper 6;

— pulley 4 of the air conditioning compressor;

— pulley 3 generator;

— tension roller 2.

Move tension roller 2 to the lower position in a clockwise direction and tighten nut 1 securing the tension roller. The tightening torque of the nut is 30...36 Nm (3.0...3.6 kgf.m) (used: - replaceable head 13, TorxT55 nozzle, wrench, torque wrench).

Install the tension roller plug.

Install the right front fender shield

Install the right front wheel and connect the negative terminal of the battery.

Sources

https://vesta-lada.com/zamena-remnya-generatora-na-lade-veste/
https://new-vesta.ru/zamena-remnya-generatora-lada-vesta-privoda-navesnyx-agregatov/
https://avtomechanic.ru/marka-avto-1/lada-vesta/dvigatel-lada-vesta/zamena-remnya-generatora-avtomobilya-lada-vesta

Location of rollers in Lada Vesta

Before you begin diagnosing or replacing these parts, it would be a good idea to know where exactly the timing system components are located in your vehicle. The rollers, belt and other components are located on the left side of the engine (if you stand in front of the hood). They can be seen if you remove the protective cover. To do this, you will have to dismantle the engine mount and remove the belt of the attachments. Under the cover you will see two large gears. These are the engine crankshaft toothed pulleys. It is on them that we will have to insert labels. Below are two small videos. The one on the left and slightly smaller is the tension roller. As you might have guessed, it is responsible for tensioning the belt. The roller on the right is parasitic. It is needed in order to bend the belt at the correct angle. In addition, it is responsible for stabilizing the belt and eliminating noise and vibration.

Preparing for replacement

Before you begin the procedure for replacing the timing rollers of the Lada Vesta, you must disconnect the negative contact of the battery and remove the keys from the ignition. In addition, you need to let the engine cool. If you carry out replacement on a warm or hot engine, you can get a serious burn. In addition, when heated, timing rollers and gears expand in different proportions. This means that you will not be able to properly tension the belt, which can lead to premature wear.

To replace timing components on a Lada Vesta you will need the following tools:

set of socket heads and ratchet;
set of open-end wrenches;
hexagon 5;
device for fixing pulleys;
jack.

Replacing the timing belt on Vesta with engine 21129 (1.6 liters, 16 valves)

The procedure is as follows:
Follow steps No. 1-4 from the previous method.
Remove the right engine mount:
Place a jack under the oil pan and lift the engine.
Using a 16mm head, unscrew the 2 bolts securing the support to the body.
Lower the right side of the engine until the support is below the lower edge of the side member.
Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the support to the engine using a Torx E12 head and remove it.
Unscrew the 5 bolts from the upper cover of the gas distribution mechanism with a hexagon and remove it.
Unscrew 10 screws using a T20 Torx bit and use a screwdriver to pull out the fasteners securing the right fender liner to the body and remove it.
Remove the accessory belt:
Using a 13mm head, loosen the nut on the roller
Insert the T55 bit into the groove on the roller. Turn the part clockwise, loosening the tension, and remove the belt.
Turn the crankshaft with the head “17” until the marks on the camshaft pulleys (convex points) coincide with the marks on the cylinder head cover (triangular slots in the plate).
Follow step No. 8, 9 from the previous method
Unscrew the 3 screws using a hexagon that secure the lower timing case cover to the cylinder block.
Follow steps No. 10, 11 from the previous method.
Place the right branch of the new part on the crankshaft pulley, the intake camshaft (right), and the exhaust camshaft (left), one by one.
While holding the right arm taut, place the belt over the water pump pulley and tensioner pulley.
Follow steps No. 13 and 14 from the previous method.

Attachment Drive Belt and Tensioner Pulley, H4M Engine

Checking the condition of the drive belt

Attention: Checking the belts is carried out exclusively on a cold engine or half an hour after stopping it. 1

Visually check the belt for wear, damage and cracks on the inside and edges

1. Visually check the belt for wear, damage and cracks on the inside and along the edges.

2. Rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise twice and ensure that all pulleys rotate before checking the belt tension.

3. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kg) in the place marked with an arrow in the figure.

Generator.
Water pump.
Crankshaft pulley.
A/C compressor drive pulley (models with A/C) or idler pulley (models without A/C).
Tension pulley.
Drive belt.

4. Measure the drive belt deflection using a special device at the point marked with an arrow in the figure.

Adjusting belt tension

Belt	Tension adjustment method
Drive belt	Adjusting bolt on idler pulley

Attention: - Before checking the deflection of the newly installed belt, you need to adjust its tension. Turn the crankshaft at least two turns, adjust the deflection again to the nominal value to eliminate uneven belt tension between the pulleys

— Tighten the tensioner pulley lock nut by hand and check the belt tension with the nut tightened. — When installing a new belt, adjust the tension according to the specifications in the “New belt” column to compensate for its poor fit to the pulley grooves. — When the deflection or tension exceeds the value specified in the “Maximum permissible value” column, adjust the tension in accordance with the data in the “After adjustment” column. — Before checking the deflection of a newly installed belt, you need to adjust its tension. Turn the crankshaft at least two turns and again adjust the deflection to the nominal value to eliminate uneven belt tension between the pulleys. — When installing the belt, check that it is seated correctly on the pulley grooves. — Do not allow engine oil, power steering fluid or coolant to come into contact with the belt and pulleys. — Do not twist or bend the belt.

1. Loosen the lock nut (A) of the idler pulley by turning it 45º from the installed position.

Generator.
Water pump.
Crankshaft pulley.
A/C compressor drive pulley (models with A/C) or idler pulley (models without A/C).
Tension pulley.
Drive belt.

A. Idler pulley lock nut.

B. Adjustment bolt.

Attention: - If the lock nut is completely unscrewed, it will be impossible to set the required tension on the drive belt with the idler pulley. Never unscrew the lock nut completely (more than 45º)

— Place an alignment mark on the lock nut and use a protractor to check the angle of rotation. Never determine the angle of rotation of the lock nut by eye.

2. Adjust the tension of the drive belt by turning the adjusting bolt.

Removing and installing the tension roller of a Lada Vesta car with a VAZ-21129 engine

We change the tension roller if extraneous noise appears when it rotates. You can detect play in the tension roller bearing when replacing the drive belt for attachments.

We prepare the car for the job. Place the car on a lift and remove the right wheel.

Remove the right front wheel guard.

We remove the belt in accordance with the article on replacing the belt.

We unscrew two nuts 1, Figure 1, bolts 5 securing the spar to the subframe 6 and remove the bolts (you will need a 13 socket wrench and a 10 socket).

We unscrew bolt 3 securing the spar to the radiator frame 2 and remove the right spar 4 of the subframe (use a 16mm socket).

We install traverse 1 on the car, Figure 2 for hanging the power plant, insert hook 2 of the traverse into eye 3 of the right eye and hang the engine on the right side. You can lift the engine from below, then you need to remove the engine crankcase protection.

We unscrew and remove two bolts 1, Figure 3, securing the engine to the right support 2 of the power unit suspension (we use a Torx E12 head).

Lower the engine enough to remove the roller from the mounting stud.

Using a 13mm head, unscrew nut 1, Figure 4, securing the tension roller and remove the tension roller.

Install the roller in reverse order.

Fastening torques:

— nuts 1 bolts 5 securing the spar 4 to the subframe 6 of the front suspension (Figure 1) — 18 Nm (1.8 — 2.4 kgcm).

— bolts 3 securing spar 4 to radiator frame 2 18 - 24 Nm (1.8 - 2.4 kgcm).

Install the generator drive belt.

The final tightening torque for the tension roller nut after installing the belt is 30 - 36 Nm (3.0 - 3.6 kgf.m).

To do this, engage fifth gear and slowly push the car back, inspecting the belt along its entire length.

It is important to check the reverse side of the belt. It is slightly visible from certain angles. You can also get a lot of information about the condition of the belt by touch.

The belt should not be too dry or lose its elasticity, and there should be no cracks on the side of the rivulets. It is unacceptable to continue using a belt that has begun to slip on the pulleys (a sign is a characteristic whistle immediately after starting the engine).

You can also get a lot of information about the condition of the belt by touch. The belt should not be too dry or lose its elasticity, and there should be no cracks on the side of the rivulets. It is unacceptable to continue using a belt that has begun to slip on the pulleys (a sign is a characteristic whistle immediately after starting the engine).

We hang and remove the right front wheel.

Install the new belt in reverse order. At the same time, tighten the belt by turning the roller hub clockwise

Please note that the hub can only be rotated to a position where the T-55 Torx key hole is lower and in line with the mounting stud. The position of the hub will be easily fixed. In this position, the new belt will receive the required tension.

Next, tighten the roller hub mounting nut to a torque of 20–24 Nm.

In this position, the new belt will receive the required tension. Next, tighten the roller hub mounting nut to a torque of 20–24 Nm.

Sources

https://avtomechanic.ru/lada-vesta/dvigatel-lada-vesta/zamena-remnya-generatora-avtomobilya-lada-vesta
https://autoruk.ru/lada-vesta/dvigatel-vaz-21129/zamena-natiazhnogo-rolika-privoda-remnia-generatora-vaz-21129
https://www.zr.ru/content/articles/779188-lada-vesta-proverka-i-zamena/

Signs of belt and tensioner wear

The drive and electric current generation system in the vehicle can function correctly for a long time, and the driver does not even have to look into the hood compartment. However, the driver should be aware of the approximate symptoms that may indicate a malfunction of the belt or its tensioner.

The following signs may indicate a drive malfunction:

characteristic whistle when starting the engine. Indicates a faulty or overly worn belt. It is necessary to immediately check its surface for wear criteria. If almost none are identified, it is worth taking measures to check the degree of tension;
the appearance of transverse or longitudinal cracks on the surface, scuffs and burrs. If there are too many of them, then it’s time to change the belt drive;
abrasions on the surface of the roller can lead to uneven wear of the strap and, as a result, to its sagging in certain areas.

Factory alternator and part number

The Lada Vesta car model has a unit from the manufacturer Bosch, type TG 12C209 f. "Valeo". According to the technical characteristics, it is three-phase, synchronous. It has a rectifier unit (built-in) and a voltage regulator. Right rotation device on the drive side.

A working unit produces a voltage of 14.4-15.1 V. It is this indicator that provides energy to all the electronics (“filling”) of the machine.

Pay attention to the Vesta generator belt, which on various modifications can come with or without a tension pulley. According to operating recommendations, replacement must be carried out every 90 thousand kilometers, with or without circuit faults.

AvtoVAZ separately produces components and assemblies for sale, for example: a generator unit for Lada Vesta and X RAY cars with article number 8450006900.

When is it time to change?

On Lada Kalina cars, the manufacturer does not regulate the replacement of this part. However, its failure is a common problem. In particular, we are talking about Lada Kalina cars. This applies to both 16-cl and 8-cl engines.

This is what a deformed element of a Kalina generator with an 8-cyl internal combustion engine looks like

Therefore, let’s look at the signs that indicate that the belt may fail in the near future:

Whistle when moving. As a rule, this whistle appears when the electrical appliances of the vehicle begin to load. For example, if you start the car, and when you press the gas, a loud whistle is heard from the engine compartment, this indicates that the belt is loose. In this case, it must be tightened using a tensioner or replaced.
Cracks on the strap. If you open the hood, look at the belt and see cracks on it, then you know that it’s time to change the element. Neither tensioning nor adjusting the rollers will help here. The component can be tightened, but this will not be enough for a long time. The only option left is replacement.
Deformation. As in the previous case, neither tightening the tensioner nor adjusting the rollers will give much effect. You just need to change the element.
Noise when the engine is running. If the element has already served its service life, this can be understood by the noise that appears when the motor is running. For example, some Lad Kalin car owners report loud knocking and even impacts when the engine is running.

The assembly is disassembled: this is what the strap looks like on the shafts

If the vehicle is equipped with a generator sensor that determines its performance, then it will be easier to identify the malfunction

For example, if you heard a whistle from under the hood, and at this time the indicator on the sensor came on, then you need to pay attention to the strap. This indicates that the belt needs to be tightened, since it may be in a weak state or that its service life has been exhausted.

One way or another, if the slipping and whistling of the strap cannot be eliminated by adjusting the belt or rollers, it needs to be changed.

Work progress

Removing the fender liner

First, you need to drive the car onto an overpass, jack it up and remove the front right wheel.

Next, the fender liner is removed. To do this, using a wrench and a Torx T-20 bit, first unscrew 2 self-tapping screws, with which the locker is fixed to the bumper at the bottom, after which 2 more self-tapping screws are unscrewed, but along the edge of the wheel arch.

Then, using a Torx T-30 bit, remove 2 screws that secure the locker to the subframe.

Attaching the locker to the subframe

The fender liner is fixed to the mudguard with 3 pistons, the clamps of which must be pryed and removed, and then the clips themselves must be removed.

In the end, all that remains is to pull the locker back so that it does not interfere with work.

We move the locker to the side

Of course, there is another option to simply cut out a piece of the fender liner with a knife, so as not to waste time on removing and installing it, but it is still not recommended to damage the component.

Features of belt removal

The process of independently replacing the alternator belt on a Lada Vesta directly depends on the vehicle’s equipment – the presence or absence of air conditioning, as well as on the type of gearbox.

Equipment without air conditioning requires removal of the standard protection. To do this, 13 bolts are unscrewed using a wrench and a 10-point head.

Attachment points for standard Lada Vesta protection

Version with manual transmission - remove the clutch hydraulic cylinder. It is fixed with 2 bolts. When the cylinder is removed, it should be hung by the hook, but there is no need to disconnect the tube.

Configurations without air conditioning - you need to remove the starter (along with the wiring), as well as the bracket, and then also hang it up. It is secured with 3 bolts. In addition, it is necessary to block the flywheel, which is done through the technical hole, which is intended for the starter mounting bolts on the transmission.

Versions with “conduit” - first you need to loosen the nut, then turn the roller (tension) to the left until it is in the upper position.

Configurations without “condya” - you will need to remove the crankshaft damper, for which you first unscrew the bolt and then remove the washer.

Replacement

In this case, the process of independently replacing the Lada Vesta alternator belt is clearly demonstrated.

First of all, you need to use a screwdriver to pry up and remove the plastic cap that covers the roller.

Then, using a 13-socket wrench, you need to loosen the nut that secures the roller.

We work with a spanner wrench 13

After this, you will need a Torx T-55 bit (length up to 28 mm).

The bit is inserted into the technological hole on the pulley hub.

Insert the bit into the hole

Next, using a crank, you need to turn it to the left (counterclockwise) until the belt tension weakens and it can be removed.

Self-installation of the alternator belt on the Lada Vesta is carried out in the reverse order. First of all, the damper is installed, and then, using tool 67.7834-9703, the belt is installed. If such tools are not available, a simple screwdriver will do.

The belt is tightened by turning the hub to the right (clockwise).

There are differences in the installation process that depend on the configuration of the machine.

Versions with air conditioning - first of all, the belt is put on the damper, then on the pulleys of the air conditioning compressor and generator, and on the tension roller. The tension roller rotates to the right and moves to the lower position. Finally, the roller nut is tightened.

Versions without air conditioning - first the belt is put on the generator pulley, and only then on the damper. Then it is put on the grooves of the damper, for which it is necessary to rotate it to the right by the bolt head.

IMPORTANT! It will be possible to rotate the hub only to a position where the technological hole for the Torx T-55 bit will be located under the fixation pin, but in line with it. At this moment, the hub will slightly lock and the installed belt will be tensioned with the required force. In the end, all that remains is to tighten the roller hub fixing nut. Tightening torque – from 20 Nm to 24 Nm.

This completes the independent replacement of the Lada Vesta alternator belt.

Everything is clearly shown in the video.

How to replace the alternator belt on Vesta

To replace the belt of this unit, you need to follow several rules.

Mechanics explain that there is no mechanism for tightening the belt on the Lada Vesta or adjusting it. Therefore, replacement on a Vesta car needs to be done every 90,000 km. Checking the wear of this unit must be done every 15,000 km - as on the nine straight.

When buying a new belt for a Lada vesta without air conditioning, you need to check with retail chain sellers whether the spare part belongs to the corresponding modification of the car.

In order to remove this belt on a Lada Vesta car, you need to:

drive a car onto an overpass;
use a jack to lift the right front wheel and unscrew it;
remove the right fender liner;
in a car without air conditioning, remove the protection;
in a car with a manual transmission, remove the clutch hydraulic cylinder;
in a configuration without air conditioning, remove the starter (with an array of wires), and the bracket (which will subsequently be suspended), block the flywheel;
using a screwdriver, pry up and remove the plastic cap that covers the roller;
loosen the nut securing the roller with a wrench;
insert a bit, up to 28mm long, into the hole on the pulley hub;
Use a crank to turn the bit counterclockwise to loosen the tension on the alternator belt;
If the belt is loose, it can be easily removed.

How to replace the tension roller

Experts recommend changing both the strap and the roller needed for tension at the same time. Such recommendations are also given by the manufacturer. On a Lada Vesta, you will have to hang the engine to remove it. Therefore, the first thing we must do is dismantle the alternator belt, and then proceed to install a new roller to replace the old one.

So, the step-by-step algorithm of operations will consist of the following actions:

We remove the lower cross member to make it possible to install a jack.
We dismantle the upper support of the power unit.
Using a jack, we will lower it closer to the ground until the pin is below the spar. This will free up the space required to access the video.
Unscrew the fastening nut and remove the old roller.
We install a new one and tighten the nut without final tightening.
Using a jack, we lift the motor up to the reverse position so that it becomes possible to install the upper supports.
Having removed the jack, we fix the cross member located below.
We throw on the generator strap and give it tension.
Tighten the fastening nut from the roller until it stops.

Work on tensioning the belt drive or replacing it can be done on your own, since this does not require special qualifications. But it is best to trust the replacement of the generator to specialized specialists in the technical maintenance service. Anyone who has their own experience of performing such work or has questions after reading the review, please share them in the comments below.

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Troubleshooting

In fact, there is nothing special to write about here, since all problems arise from worn slip rings and bearings. We simply replace them with similar ones

Repairing the rotor is more problematic, but even here everything is quite simple if you know what to do. Replacement of slip rings is carried out as follows: using a chisel and pliers, remove the old rings, carefully cutting off the wires welded by resistance welding. New slip rings must be carefully pressed onto the shaft, and the wires must be tucked into place and soldered. Before installing the bearings and assembling the generator, be sure to check the integrity of the windings with a multimeter.

Source

How to change the timing belt on a Lada Vesta: step-by-step instructions

The procedure for replacing the timing belt on the Lada Vesta involves performing work in the following sequence. By strictly following it, the procedure will go quickly and without problems.

Dismantling

Dismantling procedure:

Rotate the crankshaft until the pulley marks on the valves align.
Compare this position with the position of the crankshaft TDC on the cylinder (first in line).
Remove the rotation of the belt from the bolted parts of the pulleys.
Carefully remove the mounting bolt on the crankshaft.
Use a slotted screwdriver to hold the assembly by the gear ring of the flywheel.
Remove the set of screws and remove the starter.
Remove the crankshaft pulley and limit washer. Remove the front cover from the front of the structure, one bolt from the top, remove a couple from the bottom.

To prevent the camshafts from turning under the influence of the valve springs when removing the belt, fix the shafts if desired. Install them and secure the locking element between the pulley elements. Reduce the timing belt tension.

Installation

There is no simple mechanism for fixing the crankshaft on a small engine, but there is a mandrel. Find it, route the belt according to the diagram. Then make sure that the mark of the pulley with teeth goes opposite the tidal direction (look for it on the oil-type pump housing). Place the belt on the intake valve timing shaft pulley so that the front part of the belt is stretched, E and F coincide with each other. Do not let the belt loosen and place it on the exhaust camshaft until the C and D marks coincide.

This is what a new timing belt kit looks like

Adjusting the timing belt tension on Vesta

The last stage of installation is tensioning the timing belt, taking into account the manufacturer’s recommendations. Need to:

Rotate the tensioner using the stopper ring remover secured in grooves No. 1. Proceed in the direction of the arrows until marks 2 overlap. Tighten the roller bolt to 33-41 Nm

If the camshaft turns, reduce the belt tension, reinstall the structure, carefully turning the shaft that is installed incorrectly. After turning the crankshaft a couple of revolutions, check the alignment of the marks and the reciprocity of the arrangement of the shafts

Align the marks, if necessary, reinstall the timing belt on Vesta. Then reassemble the parts in reverse order.

You can carry out the work of replacing the timing belt on your own, but this is labor-intensive work.

Replacement requires the necessary technical equipment and experience in carrying out repair work. At the beginning of installation and adjustment of the belt drive, you should remove its casing on the engine by removing the 5 fastening screws. Remove the casing and remove the belt. Using a 17mm wrench, turn the crankshaft using the roller bolts so that the marks on the camshafts coincide with the marks on the plastic casing. Turn until the crankshaft pulley with mark F coincides with mark E. Using the same key, remove the crankshaft pulley and the limiter washer. The remaining part of the casing is unscrewed with a 5-point hexagon: 2 bolts on the bottom and 3 on top. Using a “15” wrench, unscrew the tension roller mounting bolt, after which it is dismantled in the same way as the idler roller. New rollers are put on in their place. Then comes the installation of a new belt instead of the old one. First you should make sure that the marks are still set correctly, then the belt is installed on the camshaft and pulled to the crankshaft with tension. The timing belt tensioner pulley starts it last. Use a snap ring puller to rotate the tension roller until the marks are compatible. Next comes the assembly.

Alternative way to replace the belt

There is an alternative way to replace the belt, which does not require adjusting the valve timing and removing the tension roller. The drive mounted on the pulleys is cut lengthwise into 2 parts, and the outer section is removed. A new belt is then pulled onto the gears. After removing the remains of the old drive, the belt is tensioned to its original location. The procedure is used if the tension rollers are preserved; it is recommended to check the valve timing after installation.

Replacing the timing belt on Vesta, equipped with a 1.8-liter VAZ-21179 engine, is complicated by the absence of a crankshaft locking mechanism and the use of a phase shifter on the intake valve drive shaft. To hold the camshaft gears, a special device is used, available at service stations. The template is mounted in slots made on the rear of the camshafts. To access the slot on the intake shaft, closed by the position sensor disc, you will need to remove the receiver and valve cover.

If you are replacing it yourself, you will need to find the top dead center in cylinder 1 (by the positions of the pistons and the crankshaft pulley, the 20th tooth of which is located opposite the position sensor).

A common problem on VAZ-21179 engines is the shift in valve timing due to the rotation of the gears relative to the camshafts. The defect occurs due to a weak fit and a design feature of the joint (no key is provided).

In this case, the procedure for determining the correct position of the cams is carried out by comparing the faulty motor with a known-good unit from another machine. Since the procedure is labor-intensive, it is recommended to contact a service center that services Lada Vesta cars.

Installation of a new part and adjustment

Procedure for installing a new belt and adjusting tension:

Install the tension roller in its original place, tighten the bolt by hand.
The intermediate roller is removed along with the threaded bushing, which is installed simultaneously with the new part. It is recommended to apply an additional locking agent to the thread; the fastening bolt is tightened with a wrench.
Throw the belt over the crankshaft pulley, and then the upper branch is thrown onto the camshaft gears. The side branch goes around the pump rotor gear and wraps around the tension roller. After installing the belt, check the correctness of the valve timing in accordance with the marks. If a discrepancy between the marks is noted, the shafts are turned in the direction of the minimum stroke until the teeth of the gears and the belt coincide.
Pre-tension the belt by turning the roller with pliers or a special device. The bracket is rotated counterclockwise until the stops touch.
Turn the roller clockwise until the cutout on the inner hub coincides with the rectangular notch located on the outer disk of the roller. After alignment, the bolt is finally tightened (the torque on the wrench is in the range from 30 to 36 N*m). Further tension adjustment occurs automatically.

The final stage of replacement

To check the correctness of the adjustment, you need to rotate the motor shaft 2 times and install the piston of cylinder 1 at the upper extreme point. In this case, the marks on the gears should coincide with the notches on the engine crankcase. If there is a shift in the marks on the crankshaft pulley, the belt is removed and the position is adjusted.

For additional checking, it is necessary to apply a force of 10 kg on the branch between the crankshaft and camshaft gears. A correctly operating tensioner begins to rotate clockwise (the design includes a dial indicator).

Technology for replacing the drive of auxiliary units on Lada Kalina

Specifics of the drive circuit on different modifications of Lada Kalina
Recommendations for choosing a belt drive
Regulations for periodic inspection and replacement of the alternator belt on Kalina
Repair technology for the auxiliary drive system
Tension adjustment
Useful video tutorials on the topic
How to replace the alternator belt on Lada Kalina
How to tighten a belt

Lada Kalina from AvtoVAZLada Kalina The domestic auto industry continues to progress - AvtoVAZ presented a new generation Lada Kalina
. The model is equipped with a Jatco automatic transmission and an improved ventilation and heating system. Representatives of the plant claim that the new car has gotten rid of the problems associated with the electric power steering of the previous series.

This is all wonderful, but it was thanks to the first generation of the VAZ 1118 that repair techniques were developed that can be very useful to owners of new cars. Let's say the procedure for replacing the alternator serpentine belt on Kalina

absolutely the same for both models.

Specifics of the drive circuit on different modifications of Lada Kalina

The factory design provides for different lengths of standard gears, which depend on the configuration of the machine:

without air conditioning – 882 mm;
with air conditioning – 1018 mm.

The first VAZ 1118 models without air conditioning and a tension roller are equipped with a poly-V drive with a length of 823 mm

. Thus, with one belt from the crankshaft pulley, not only the alternator, but also the air conditioning compressor can be activated. The roller circuit allows you to adjust the tension.

Recommendations for choosing a belt drive

Gates drive as standard.

.
As a replacement on the first models, you can use Dayco 825
.
Here you need to take into account that elastic specimens are marked with the “ Poly-V
” symbol; if it is absent, the product has a rigid structure.

Alternative drives for VAZ 1118 with air conditioning

Roulunds Rubber 6PK1015;
Dayco 6PK1005;
Bosch 6PK1015;
Gates 6PK1019.

Alternative drives for VAZ 1118 without air conditioning

Bautler 6PK883;
Dayko 6PK888;
Finwhale BP6 883;
Luzar LB 0118 1118-3701720 6РК 884;
Roulunds Rubber 6PK884;
BRT 882 mm (Balakovo plant).

Drive system repair

Regulations for periodic inspection and replacement of the alternator belt on Kalina

Many new owners of vehicles, either from prolonged joy or out of ignorance, remember the presence of a flexible connection under the hood only after the lamp on the dashboard lights up. The technical documentation of the vehicle indicates operational standards, after which the torque transmission elements must be removed and new ones installed:

tensioner roller after 60,000 km;
belt after 30,000 km.

Experts strongly recommend monthly scheduled maintenance of the rubber drive, consisting of simple external inspection steps. The part needs to be replaced if the following defects are detected

cracks;
abrasions;
delamination;
oiling;
cuts.

A high-frequency whistle that appears when electrical consumers are turned on also indicates the need to replace the generator belt on Kalina or, at a minimum, to adjust its tension.

Repair technology for the auxiliary drive system

Sequencing

is similar for both models with and without air conditioning and consists of the following items:

Remove the engine protection.
Remove the right wheel and fender liner.
Remove the expansion tank.
Jack up the right side of the engine and unscrew the mount.
By tightening the tensioner mechanism pin, loosen the belt tension.
Remove the drive from the roller and then from all pulleys.
Install the new part and reassemble in reverse order.
Adjust the tension.

Tension adjustment

After replacing the alternator belt on Kalina, making a rough adjustment and then starting the engine, it is necessary to more accurately adjust the drive tension

. To do this, we perform the following operations:

loosen the tensioner rod locknut;
turn the adjusting pin with a wrench to “8” until the result is achieved;
tighten the locknut.

When gradually tightening the belt, you can use a simple canter scale, which you need to attach to the key at “8” and tighten the pin counterclockwise to a reading of 2 kg. A normal setting is considered when, with a force of 10 kgf, in the area between the generator and crankshaft pulleys, the deflection value will be within 8-10 mm.

Useful video tutorials on the topic

A video with a step-by-step operation will help you analyze in detail all the nuances of replacing and adjusting the tension

Lada Vesta generator belt with air conditioner size

Depending on the version of the Lada Vesta/XRAY car, replacing the alternator belt (belt of attachments) is performed differently. In one case a belt tension roller is used, in the other it is not. Before starting work, turn off the ignition and raise the car to a comfortable height.

Instructions for replacing the auxiliary drive belt are in the technical instructions:

Removing the belt

1. Remove the right fender liner by unscrewing the fastening screws. Raise the car to a height.

2. For versions without air conditioning, remove the engine protection (on Vesta, XRAY).

3. For configurations with a manual transmission, remove the clutch hydraulic cylinder (Figure 4-3, No. 2) by unscrewing two bolts (No. 1). Hang it by the technological hook without disconnecting the tubes (No. 3).

4. For configurations without air conditioning, remove the bracket (Figure 4-4, No. 2) and the starter along with the wires by unscrewing three bolts (No. 1). Hang it on a hook. Lock the flywheel through the hole for the starter mounting bolts on the gearbox.

5. For configurations with air conditioning, turn the tension roller (Fig. 4-5, No. 2) to the upper position counterclockwise, having first loosened the nut (No. 1).

7. Remove the attachment belt (No. 5).

Belt installation

We carry out assembly in reverse order. After installing the damper, we use the special device 67.7834-9703 for easier installation of the belt. In extreme cases, you can get by with a regular tool, such as a screwdriver.

For configurations without air conditioning, install the belt on the generator pulley (No. 3) and put it on the damper (No. 6) through the device. Rotating it by the head of the bolt clockwise 3/4 of a turn, we put the belt on the grooves of the damper.

For configurations with air conditioning, install the belt first on the damper (No. 6), then on the air conditioning compressor pulley (No. 4), alternator pulley (No. 3) and tension roller (No. 2). Move the tension roller to the lower position by rotating it clockwise and tighten the nut (No. 1) of the roller.

As practice shows, the process of replacing the belt and roller can be simplified.

Required

: Remove the wheel arch liner from the right front wheel.

How to remove the belt

Remove the roller plug and pry it off with a sharp object.
Loosen the roller with a 13mm wrench (counterclockwise).
Release the belt tension by turning the T55 Torx bit counterclockwise.

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Reasons for discharge

On the 2022 Vesta, released in the Luxury trim level, there is a factory mistake - self-discharge of the battery. The manufacturer himself points out this problem and recommends taking such actions. Swap certain contacts, which will automatically update the software version and reset all electronic unit errors. But it is better to entrust this procedure to specialists, especially if the car is still under warranty.

On other vehicle configurations, battery discharge is possible due to something else. For example, many owners, contrary to the ban, install high-power halogen lamps or simultaneously turn on fog lights with optics. The battery quickly loses capacity due to unnecessary additions.

Other common causes of discharge:

crooked installation of electrical-related equipment;
regular driving at speeds 1 and 2;
frequent movement over short distances within 30 km - while using many electrical appliances at the same time (powerful acoustics, heated steering wheel and seats);
cold weather and lack of thermal insulation of the car hood.

A low battery on a Lada Vesta can cause the doors to lock. They cannot be opened using the transmitter, but the manufacturer has taken this into account. You can also get into the cabin with a discharged battery. Here's what you need to do to do this:

remove the decorative cap of the handle by prying it by the groove from below with some sharp object;
clean any small debris that gets on the lock with a rag;
lubricate the larva with a special penetrating compound - warm the lock in the cold or use thawing special means;
open the door with the ignition key.

How to check the belt

If the alternator belt whistles, then every owner of a Lada Vesta will decide on replacing it as soon as possible. However, it is not at all necessary to reach this point. According to the regulations, you can safely change the strap without checking it after 10-15 thousand kilometers traveled.

However, if there is a need to check the condition, then first of all we lift the engine screen up to provide access to the unit. With your finger we look for the area in the middle between the generator pulley and the coolant pump. We press on it with a force of approximately 8.0 kgf. The deflection value should be around 12 mm from the original position. If necessary, tighten the belt or replace it with a new one.

Examination

To independently check the condition of the Lada Vesta alternator belt, you need to turn on the speed, and then begin to carefully push the car back, while simultaneously inspecting the component. Moreover, inspection is carried out not only of the external, but also of the internal side - from some angles it can also be partially inspected.

Next, a touch test is carried out. In this case, replacement is necessary in the following cases:

Cracks appeared on the inside (where the grooves are located);
The belt is too dry;
There is a loss of elasticity.

In addition, if a whistle occurs, continuing to operate a sedan or station wagon with this element is not allowed by regulations - this means that the belt slips on the pulleys.

The Lada Vesta generator belt must be checked periodically

Replacing the generator belt tensioner

Often the alternator belt whistles or wears out due to low tension. The alternator belt tensioner may be either incorrectly adjusted or damaged and must be replaced.

Replacing the alternator belt tensioner pulley

But most often it is not the tensioner that dies, but the roller on it. To be precise, the roller bearing often fails. The bearing can also be replaced if practical.

It’s easier, of course, to buy a video, but the original can be expensive, and it’s difficult to find an analogue in size.

Please note that it is important not only to choose a belt of the same length, but also rollers of the same diameter. Everything must match as originally so that the intended belt tension is correct.

Car enthusiasts also often search for replacing the tensioner pulley as “replacing the alternator belt tensioner pulley.” It is the same.

Which drive belt to install. Price

As mentioned earlier, the Lada Vesta engine is equipped with one auxiliary belt. In the production of cars, a 6RK 1039 belt is used as standard. The original of such a belt from the manufacturer LADA will cost 1000 rubles, product code 8450006328.

The tension of the drive belt is ensured by a tension roller. If it is discovered that the roller is worn out or inoperative, it must also be replaced.

A non-working roller has a characteristic noise when the engine is running, but for a more complete diagnosis, performance can be assessed using a stethoscope.

You can purchase an original tension roller from VAZ, product code 8450006996. The price of such a product is 800 rubles. For a similar replacement, a tension roller from Pilenga, article number PTP1550, is suitable. Its cost is 500 rubles.

Prices are valid for autumn 2017 for Moscow and the region.