mileage 15 km after repair
Already traveled almost 1000 km Catalog numbers and spare parts manufacturers:
1. Primary shaft: 1.1.
Front single-row radial roller bearing: Catalog number
: 2108 - 1701031, 42205, NJ 205 (international name)
Manufacturers:
• EPK plants (Saratov, Volzhsky, Aviation Bearing Plant) produce the following varieties: 42205 KM (SPZ), 42205D1 (ZAP), 6-42205 A1E1USH1 (SPZ and VPZ), the latter is the most common and in demand.
• 10 GPP (Rostov-on-Don) offers modification 42205 AEM. These products occupy an intermediate position in the quality-price range. • The Samara SPZ-4 plant produces the simplest modification of this type, with a polyamide separator. They are very cheap, but knowledgeable motorists prefer not to use them. • If you are offered a “Vologda bearing” of this type, then it is a Chinese counterfeit (23 GPZ does not make them now). Catalog numbers
: SKF NJ 205 ECP; KOYO NJ205; Toyota 97123-06205; 6205ZZ; 93306-205U6-00 (Yamaha); 6205ZZCM
1.2. Rear radial ball bearing single row: Catalog number
: 2108 - 1701033, 50305, 6305 (international name) Quantity: 2 pcs.
Manufacturers:
• 3 GPP (Saratov) and VBF (Vologda), as well as HARP (Ukraine) - prices and quality are higher.
• GPZ (Moscow), SPZ-4 (Samara) (low quality, low price), • It is not recommended to buy bearings with other markings, since these are most likely Chinese products, which bear the markings of the companies ordering their production. The imported analogue is designated 6305. Closed 6305 ZZ and 6305 2RS (metal or rubber plugs). A bearing with a thermal gap is designated 6305/C3 (analogous to 76-305). Metal plugs - ZZ, rubber plugs - 2RS. Products of the SKF, FAG, KOYO brands are much more expensive and reliable than others. Catalog numbers
: SKF 6305 N; NTN-SNR 6305N; Toyota 90099-10142; 6305DDU; 6305NR; 90601-0012 (Subaru); 97100-06305; 5-81229-104-0
2. Secondary shaft: 2.1. Front single row radial roller bearing: Catalog number
: 2108 - 1701180, 42305, NJ 305 (international name)
Manufacturers:
• EPK plants (Saratov, Volzhsky, Aviation Bearing Plant) produce the following varieties: 42305 KM (SPZ), 42305LM (SPZ), 6-42305 A1E1USH1 (SPZ and VPZ ), the latter is the most common and in demand.
• 10 GPP (Rostov-on-Don) offers modification 42305 AEM. These products occupy an intermediate position in the quality-price range. • The Samara SPZ-4 plant produces the simplest modification of this type, with a polyamide separator. They are very cheap, but knowledgeable motorists prefer not to use them. • Some suppliers will also offer you the Craft brand. These Chinese bearings are the cheapest, but are completely unsuitable for installation in car gearboxes. Catalog numbers
: Koyo NJ 305; Coram NJ 305
3. Gearbox secondary shaft bearing, single-row needle without rings in a plastic cage (for speed gears): Catalog number
: 2108 - 1701108 Quantity: 5 pcs.
Dimensions: 30x36x25 Catalog numbers
: K32X37X27 (SKF), PW-P1108 (Pilenga)
4. Single-row tapered roller differential bearing: Catalog number
: 2108 - 2303036, 7207, 30207 (international name) Quantity: 2 pcs.
Catalog numbers
: NSK 30207, KOYO 30207JR; HR30207J; MB 393957; MT 202119; MA 125934 (Mitsubishi)
5. Seals: 5.1. Drive seal: Catalog number
: Corteco 12015250\Corteco 12015250B 5.2.
Input shaft oil seal: Catalog number
: Corteco 19034619B\Corteco 19034619 5.3.
Gear selector rod oil seal (yoke oil seal): Catalog number
: Corteco 12010803\Corteco 12010803B
6. Reverse gear Pilenga Catalog number
: GB-P 0850
7. Engine mounts. Manufacturer: BRT 7.1. Side engine mount bracket for LADA Samara 2108-1001040-10RU 7.2. Rear engine mount bracket for LADA Samara 2108-1001031-10RU 7.3. Front engine mount bracket for LADA Samara 2108-1001015-10RU
Features of power plants
The VAZ 2112 (Lada) car can be equipped with 16 valve power units, which have a volume of 1.5 liters, and the power reaches 93 horsepower. The power supply system of this car is injection. It is recommended to use AI-95 gasoline. In the urban cycle, it consumes about 10 liters per 100 km. The VAZ gearbox in this case is mechanical.
Cars with a 1.6-liter engine, which is equipped with a manual transmission (5 speed) and produces 89 horsepower, have become widespread. VAZ is less demanding on fuel quality, so AI-92 can be filled here.
Manual transmission diagram Gear shift diagram
How to remove a gearbox on a VAZ 2110 in a garage
What the public loves about our cars is their simplicity of design, availability of spare parts and ease of repair. As a rule, all basic work is carried out with a standard set of tools, except in rare cases when some kind of puller is desirable. But, as a rule, they can do without it.
The need for dismantling work
This holy simplicity helps to save on the services of masters, and quite a lot. Moreover, given the age category of owners of the VAZ 2110 and others like it, such repair work instills diligence, a love of technology and develops hand motor skills. But seriously, in any garage, any person who is even remotely familiar with threaded connections will be able to dismantle and restore any unit.
The need to dismantle the VAZ 2110 gearbox arises not only when there is a problem in the gearbox itself, but also when for some reason you need to get to the clutch - change the disc, repair the basket, change the release bearing. Despite the fact that the car is inexpensive, the owners have very few complaints about it, which is why they choose the VAZ 2110 among the entire model range. Removing the gearbox is no exception. The work is carried out in several stages, and takes about an hour and a half.
Preparatory work
Before we start removing the VAZ 2110 gearbox, let's prepare for work on the material part. To withdraw you will need:
- set of open-end wrenches;
- set of spanners
- heads and knobs with cardan;
- without a hammer - nowhere;
- a skein of strong braid (although you can do without it);
- jack.
In order to avoid going under the car and getting up from the inspection hole a hundred times, we will try to organize the work according to this principle.
Work on removing the gearbox from the engine compartment
- We place the car on a flat platform with an inspection hole. If it is possible to use a lift, great, it will make the work much easier. We open and fix the hood in the open position, after which the first step is to remove the terminals from the battery, starter relay and speed sensor.
- Disconnect the mass from the clutch housing and disconnect its drive cable. Now you can unscrew the two uppermost bolts securing the clutch housing to the cylinder block and the upper starter mounting nut.
- Now we need to think about keeping the engine in the same position when we disconnect it from the mounting points. For this, the factory has provided a mounting eye, which should be on the manifold stud. We hang the motor with braid either on a beam in the garage, or on a traverse, or on a board laid across the car, resting it on the drainage grooves. We get down under the car.
Work carried out under the car
- remove the engine splash guard and the protective cover of the clutch housing;
- drain the transmission oil from the gearbox, having previously unscrewed the plug;
The box has been dismantled. When carrying out work, you must take into account that in no case should you rest the gearbox on the input shaft in order to avoid its deformation, and when removing it, you must carefully remove the shaft from the clutch, there is a danger of damaging the petals of the basket.
Installation of the box is carried out in the reverse order, the only thing that can be strongly recommended is to be sure to change the retaining rings on the inner CV joints. Happy work!
Removing the gearbox
How to remove the box? Before disassembling the gearbox, it must be cleaned. It is important that water does not get inside the box.
Main stages:
- Power from the battery is turned off.
- The block is disconnected from the speed sensor.
- Transmission fluid is drained.
- The bolts securing the jet thrust are removed.
- It is necessary to remove the constant velocity joints from their standard location.
- The existing ball joint bolts are loosened.
- Using a tool, unscrew the nuts holding the clutch cover to the gearbox housing.
- The bolts securing the gearbox to the engine are disconnected.
- The power plant must be lifted (use a jack).
- The engine mounts must be removed.
- To pick up the gearbox, you can use a screwdriver.
- The speed box slides off the guides. The input shaft should disengage from the clutch.
The process of filming from a regular location requires caution. That is why this procedure should not be carried out alone. Repair of a VAZ gearbox, its dismantling and assembly should be trusted to professionals. This will reduce the chance of damage to any components of the gearbox.
Thus, if it is necessary to remove the gearbox on a VAZ 2112, the vehicle is placed in an inspection hole. Next, you need to disconnect the battery terminal, mudguard, stabilizer, and nuts. The sensors need to be disconnected. Also, the gear shift lever must be removed. The oil is drained (about 5 liters are required).
Do-it-yourself instructions for replacing (removing and installing) VAZ 2110,2112 gearbox
If the transmission is removed in order to repair the clutch, release bearing or flywheel, then it is not necessary to drain the transmission oil and pull the drive out of it.
It is necessary to remove the gearbox on a VAZ 2110 with an assistant. Procedure: 1.Remove the starter, battery and drain the oil. 2. Disconnect the clutch cable from the release fork. To do this, loosen the tightening of nuts 1 and 2, then remove it.
3. Slide the cover off the cable sheath and unscrew the fastening nut. Remove the cable from the bracket on the gearbox.
4. Disconnect the wires from the speed sensor. You need to compress the spring clips.
5. Unscrew bolt 1, which secures the ignition bracket to the VAZ 2110 gearbox, and two bolts 2 and 3, which secure the box to the engine.
6.You also need to disconnect the reverse sensor connector; it is located at the bottom of the car.
7. Unscrew the bolts securing the jet rod to the gearbox, there are two of them.
8. Loosen the bolt of the gear shift rod clamp and disconnect it from the rod hinge, while it needs to be moved back.
9.The next step is to remove the wheel drives, and instead of the left one we put a plug, which can serve as an old CV joint, and tie it so that it does not fall out. It is not necessary to remove the right drive; you can disconnect it from the gearbox, take it to the side and hang it from the body.
10.To make it easier to remove the gearbox on a VAZ 2110,2112, unscrew the left ball joint from the steering knuckle.
11.Unscrew the lower right mount of the gearbox. You should know that on engines with an injection system, a support bracket 2 is installed, which we remove from the stud.
12.If necessary, unscrew the top nut of this bracket.
13. Unscrew the bolts securing cover 1 from clutch housing 2, there are only three of them.
14.Next, you need to unscrew the bolt of the lower left fastening of the VAZ 2110 gearbox to the engine.
15.We hang the engine as follows: install a board on the front fenders, placing rags under it, as shown in the photo below.
16. We tie the power unit to it using a strong rope, cable or, as in the photo, using an old seat belt. The ropes must be in tension.
17.Unscrew the nut securing the left engine mount from the bottom of the car.
18.Then you need to unscrew the two nuts of the rear support of the power unit.
19. We unscrew the fastening of the rear engine mount to the VAZ 2110, 2112 gearbox, while using another wrench we hold the nuts from turning and remove it.
20.Insert a pry bar or screwdriver between the cylinder block and the clutch housing, slide the gearbox off the guide bushings, supporting it.
21. We move the VAZ 2110, 2112 gearbox as far as possible to the left side of the car, passing the rear cover over the stretcher, and the input shaft will disengage. If the shaft does not come out, then push the engine in the opposite direction from the box. As soon as the shaft is disengaged, the box can be removed from under the car.
22.Reinstalling the gearbox is done in the reverse order. 23.Then we install the drive wheels. 24. Fill in the transmission oil, if drained. 25.Then follows the adjustment of the clutch release drive. 26.Adjusting the gear shift lever.
Disassembling the box
It is necessary to disassemble the gearbox if you are replacing worn components. The process begins after the box has been removed from the vehicle. The VAZ 2112 gearbox is installed vertically on the clutch housing, the bolts and nuts are unscrewed. The back cover, bracket, and stem must be dismantled. Using a spanner, unscrew the installed mounting bolt on the 5th gear fork. To unscrew the shaft nuts, use a socket socket. Next, the fork, coupling, and hub are removed. It is necessary to dismantle all fixing, fastening elements, and the locking ring. The box housing is removed. All fastening bolts, rod, and protective cover are removed. Access to the shafts, differential, and gear selector is available.
To replace the rod hinge on a VAZ 2112, you should use a 10 mm spanner. When replacing the differential, you must remove the satellite axis and two satellites from the metal body. Next, the driven gear bolts are unscrewed. If the satellites or driven gear are damaged or the gear teeth are worn out, they must be replaced. Before installing new consumables, they must be lubricated with transmission oil. It is quite possible to repair a faulty box yourself.
Removing the VAZ 2111 8 valve gearbox
- To the beginning of the forum
- Forum Rules
- Old design
- FAQ
- Search
- Users
How to remove and install a VAZ gearbox without a pit and without an assistant?
is it possible and is this a radio? I've been thinking about various ideas and video related aids. for example something like .
[img]
or simple wooden beams with two such tension
Added after 1 minute 54 seconds:
Added after 59 seconds:
It seems to me that it could be all here without additional reduction in transmission. Centering can be done by gluing the slats in several places so that the cart has enough space www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW7tf5MLFkY to replace the seat in the gearbox. After making it easier I threw the gearbox again. Am I right or am I wrong?
Has anyone tried this route with longer screws that hold the transmission in place for clutch replacement purposes? What screws on the tag react?
I found!
just one question. what studs? what's the thread? hardness? Is there a minimum length required for the job? He said it was a video clip, but I didn't understand.
No, I’ll definitely go to the service center to repair the box. I just don't want to do it myself.
“Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach him to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.”
old Chinese proverb
Many people tell me that once you have a (factory) clutch from another (regardless of the manufacturer) don't drive it much. I don't know if this is due to wear on the flywheel, baskets, throwout bearing. Some say yes forks, which could be the reason. Mostly not about driving style, because they are the same drivers. Thus, it is my great “interest” to change the clutch and the gearbox.
Back to the question . What kind of studs (thread, diameter) can be used so as not to look in the book?
Vuja
Why such dancing with a tambourine? I had a case where, using a similar method, they broke off a piece from the gearbox bell, then I had to cook it with argon.
Just recently I was rebuilding my gearbox, without a pit and a lift. There is more work to do - remove the second drive, disconnect the clutch cable and unscrew the lower suspension arm (saber, or whatever it is called). It took me about 15-20 minutes to do all this, but removing the clutch through a tiny gap will take many times longer. If you're not a skinny guy who can't lift anything heavier than a computer mouse, it's quite possible to remove and install the gearbox. And together it will be easier and faster to do this; finding a neighbor in the garage or calling a friend for 5 minutes, I think it won’t be a big problem.
Source
In what cases should the gearbox be removed?
Before removing the gearbox, you should make sure that the malfunctions are related specifically to it and are not caused, for example, by insufficient oil level, loose gearbox mounts, or defects in the clutch release drive.
Gearbox VAZ 2110
The need to remove the gearbox occurs when the following malfunctions occur:
- transmissions switch off spontaneously;
- unclear gear shifting;
- increased noise, appearance of extraneous sounds;
- when overtaking, the clutch disappears;
- gears are difficult to shift;
- oil leaks.
The procedure for removing the gearbox on a VAZ 2110
To begin with, you should definitely decide whether you really want to remove the VAZ 2110 gearbox without the help of an experienced specialist. These works are quite complex, so we cannot do without the proper knowledge, skills and equipment.
If you still decide to get down to business on your own, then you should call a friend for help - for some actions one pair of hands will not be enough, and the work will be more fun. The tools we need are, first of all, wrenches and screwdrivers.
In addition, it is worth reading the instructions on how to change the box on a VAZ 2110. Don’t be too lazy to do this, because the process itself is quite complicated, so you can damage the device during dismantling work.
First, we drive the car into the pit. If you want to know how to remove a box on a VAZ 2110 without a pit, then everything happens exactly the same, but the work will be more difficult. After all, having straightened up to your full height, all movements are easier and more convenient. Next, install supports for the wheels. After making sure that the car is immobilized, we begin removing the VAZ 2110 gearbox.
