When to change and how to check the clutch - its service life may have come to an end

Lada Granta is a car that uses a single-plate closed clutch mechanism. Despite its simplicity, it is quite technologically advanced, equipped with elements that dampen vibrations during shifting, reduce wear, and simplify gear shifting.

The main difference between the Granta clutch and many previous models is the absence of gaps between the release bearings, as well as the placement of the spring legs inside special casings, which increases the protection factor from external loads.

Despite this, the part is subject to wear, and sooner or later there will be a need to replace it. You can perform this operation on your own.

Why has the clutch pedal become stiff?

If the car is completely new, then the so-called drive wedge may have occurred. This is the easiest fault that you can adjust yourself. But if we are talking about an older car, then perhaps the problems are more serious and affect the entire unit.

Most often, such problems occur due to poor performance of the diaphragm spring. It is possible that the fork is jamming or the bearing being pressed out is jammed. Cable scuffing often occurs. The driven disk itself may also become jammed.

If the car is in use for a long time, then cracks may appear on the drive fork. You also need to understand that over many years of driving a car, a large amount of dirt could simply accumulate in this unit.

The clutch does not disengage (drives)

Often, the Lada mechanism does not fully release due to the hydraulic clutch release. This could be due to poor drive adjustment, leaking fluid system, or cable wedge. Such breakdowns are easily eliminated. It is much more difficult when one of the elements of the main device breaks down.

If the mechanism does not completely disengage, it means that something is holding it: a deformed driven circle, the formation of dirt, rust in the spline joint, flywheel wear, as well as a change in the shape of the release fork, weakening of the pressure plate. In all cases, the disk will need to be replaced.

Sequence of actions when removing and replacing the Lada Granta clutch with cable drive

1. After removing the manual transmission (the process is described above), we mark the location of the basket and flywheel with marks. In the event that we do not plan to replace the basket or pressure plate. The decision is made by the repairman based on the diagnostic results.

Removed manual transmission

1. Unscrew the bolts and remove the basket with the pressure driven disk.

Cart with disc

Note to the driver!!! We loosen the tightening of the bolts evenly, according to the diagonal principle, one turn of the key.

1. Remove the discs from the clutch basket.

Removing a disc from the bin

1. We carry out troubleshooting of parts, adjacent mechanisms and elements.

What to pay attention to when troubleshooting:

• cracks, breaks in parts;
• depressions of more than 0.2 mm;
• check for cracks on the diaphragm spring;
• We inspect the support rings; there should be no signs of wear, visible or obvious defects on them;

We replace worn elements with new ones as necessary.

How to replace a release bearing - step-by-step instructions

The entire bearing replacement process is outlined below, supported by photographs for greater clarity. To replace you will need: a new release valve (suitable from Priora, but you will have to trim the “ears”); pit or lift; set of tools.

1. Work is performed on an inspection pit or on a lift. We unscrew everything that may interfere with hanging the box (protection, hanging cables, etc.).

2. Unscrew the bolts securing the box and disconnect it from the motor.

3. We hang the box on ropes without removing it completely and without disconnecting the CV joints.

4. Remove the retaining spring, then remove the faulty bearing from the guide bushing.

Reassembly is performed in reverse order; during assembly, do not forget to lubricate the shaft on which the release bearing sits. If the replacement process is not described in sufficient detail for you, you can read a more detailed report

Replacing the release bearing Kalina 2, 1118, Cross, Sport

To make a replacement you will need to put your car on a pit or a lift. Repairs are also possible if you have reliable supports and a jack. It is worth noting that without a pit or lift, the replacement method without removing the box, which is described at the end of the article, is suitable.

How to remove the gearbox and release bearing on Kalina 2 (1.4-1.6 8kl) with your own hands

Replacing the release bearing on a Lada Kalina begins with dismantling the gearbox; this process is described in detail in step-by-step instructions with photos/videos. Perform the operations in order.

1. Open the hood of the car and immediately remove the battery.
2. Next, remove the air filter by unscrewing the clamp and disconnecting the fastenings to the body.

1. The clutch cable is located behind the battery; you need to unscrew the nut and disconnect the cable from the fastener.
2. Now disconnect the plug of the speed sensor wire, it is located behind the “engine”, in the area of ​​​​the pipes.

1. Next, find the upper bolts securing the gearbox to the engine and unscrew them.

1. The last operations on top of the gearbox are unscrewing the starter and its terminals, as well as disconnecting the clutch cable and electrical wiring.

1. Remove the front wheels and tighten the hub nuts. We disconnect the protection (mud flaps) under the wing.

1. Immediately disconnect the terminal of the reversing lights wire.

1. Nearby there is a suspension beam, first twist the rear nut with a 24mm wrench.
2. Now we move on to the ball joints, loosen the nuts and remove them on both sides.

1. On the same side of the manual transmission we find the oil drain plug, unscrew it and drain it into any container.
2. Between the manual transmission and the engine there is a clutch protective cover. To remove it, unscrew the nuts around the perimeter.

1. Let's move on to dismantling the gearshift mechanism. First, unscrew the two bolts and remove the cover.
2. Then unscrew the screw that secures the linkage connection.

1. The next step is to remove the wheel drive shafts from the gearbox on both sides.

1. Let's return to the suspension. On the manual transmission side, it is necessary to unscrew the bolt securing the lever, and also disconnect the extension.

1. Next, to remove the gearbox and replace the release bearing of the VAZ Kalina, unscrew the lower bolts securing the gearbox to the engine, as well as the front cushion. Before doing this, be sure to install a support under the engine.

1. As a result, the housing of the high-speed unit (MKPP-2181) will be completely disconnected from the mating units, and it can be dismantled. First, use a sharp, wide screwdriver to separate the assembly from the engine.
2. Then we manually dismantle the assembly. It is advisable to use a special telescopic stand or ask a partner for help, since the gearbox is not light. After removal, we proceed to replacing the release bearing on the Lada Kalina with our own hands.

How to change the release bearing on Kalina - step-by-step technology

The clutch release bearing for Kalina 2, 1118, Cross, Sport (including 8 valves) is located in the crankcase (see photo at the beginning of the article), to remove the old “releaser” follow the instructions.

1. First, use a screwdriver to remove the coupling spring, after which the VP will be removed from the shaft without difficulty.

1. Next, inspect the fork, check for smoothness, absence of radial and axial play, as well as runout. If the fork is in working condition, then check the input shaft on which the VP is located: splines, seating surface. No nicks, cracks, or corrosion are allowed.
2. After checking the unit, if the condition is normal, the coupling should be replaced. In reverse order, put the coupling on the shaft (the ear should mate with the fork without distortion). Secure the spring and check the smooth operation of the mechanism.

1. When the new clutch release bearing is installed on Kalina, you can begin installing the box. The operations are performed in reverse order. To lift the gearbox to the power unit, it is recommended to use third-party assistance or a telescopic transmission stand.

How is the clutch adjusted?

So, how to properly adjust the clutch? The clutch of the modern VAZ model family has a clutch cable, along with which there are ratchet mechanisms in the structural unit. These cables do not provide for any clearance, which in theory does not imply the need for adjustment. However, the manufacturer insistently recommends performing periodic adjustment procedures on this mechanism.

To perform the adjustment on these cars, including the Lada Granta, you should stock up on a ruler (a caliper is also suitable) and a screwdriver.

The sequence of manipulations looks like this.

1. Open the hood of the Lada Grant and install the clutch cable in its original position. To do this, move its lower edge forward until it stops. By moving the cable, you can feel the force created by the return spring. We do not pay due attention to this aspect and continue this manipulation.
2. Taking a ruler or the same caliper, we measure the distance. The photo clearly shows the segment to be measured: between the beginning of the fork and the cable lead. For correct measurements, you will need to keep the cable in a stationary and certain position. The ideal measurement result would be 27 mm. When clutch adjustment is required, the actual parameter will differ from the stated standard. To achieve the required value (27 mm), rotate the cable lead.
3. Having completed this action, insert the cable end into the groove of the fork, and then release the retained element. Please note that there is no gap.
4. This completes the procedure. Now we move on to pressing the pedal multiple times to make sure the unit is functioning correctly. After completing a set of presses, we once again measure the distance along the cable and, if discrepancies appear, perform repeated adjustments.

The need to adjust the cable on Lada Granta, Kalina or Priora occurs regardless of its condition (new or has already spent a certain amount of service life).

When does the need for adjustment occur?

In such cases:

• when there are jerks from the start that are permanent;
• when an attempt to engage a gear is accompanied by a blow;
• if the pedal is stuck.

These are the most striking symptoms indicating the need for adjustment. Ideally, the level of the pedal should coincide with the brake. In this case, the full pedal travel is 125 - 135 mm. Practice shows that the stroke can be exceeded by up to 160 mm.

To properly adjust the pedal assembly, you will need to stock up on two wrenches with suitable parameters.

1. Loosen the locknut holding the cable. It is located on the engine compartment side.
2. Now use a wrench to rotate the second locknut to achieve the correct clearance.
3. Upon completion of the process, be sure to tighten the first nut to the required torque.

Attention! If the pedal is adjusted with its position below the brake, then the moment the clutch engages will occur when the pedal itself “lifts” from the floor. When the level is above the brake pedal, seizure will occur at the end of the stroke.

We remind you that efforts should be made to achieve a uniform level in the pedal assembly (the author of the video is Time R).

How to check the clutch?

The clutch is checked using already proven and reliable folk methods, and only by them. Naturally, in addition to disassembling the clutch. We are talking about how you can check the clutch of your car yourself, and then decide whether you need a more in-depth diagnostic with dismantling the clutch mechanism.

So, let's start checking the clutch on the main points.

Clutch slippage. Those. again we are talking about wear on the driven disk when it is not fully pressed against the flywheel, which means there is no full clutch.

• We put the car on the handbrake and start the engine;
• engage a higher gear: 3rd or 4th;
• slowly depress the clutch and “give” the gas;
• When the handbrake is adjusted, the car engine should stall. If this does not happen, then it is time to think about replacing the clutch disc.

The clutch “drives” , i.e. it doesn't turn off completely. This malfunction is accompanied by difficult gear shifting, or extraneous noises and sounds when changing gears. And the gearbox is hardly to blame here. Checking the clutch.

• the engine is idling;
• Depress the clutch pedal completely and engage first or reverse gear;
• If the gear is engaged with uncharacteristic effort, and at the same time you hear extraneous sounds, then the driven disk does not completely move away from the flywheel, i.e. the clutch “drives”;
• you need to pump the hydraulics and adjust the free play of the clutch pedal;
• check again, if nothing has changed, then it’s time to go to a car service for a more in-depth diagnosis of the clutch.

Using these simple methods, you can independently check the clutch before it fails at the most inopportune moment. Timely diagnostics, and even better - correct operation, will increase the life of the clutch, or take timely measures to eliminate malfunctions.

Are problems with gearbox operation always associated with an unadjusted clutch?

Mechanical transmission problems do not always indicate a clutch that needs to be adjusted. If the clutch seems to be at fault, check the list above. We will also look at other problems with the manual transmission. Frequent malfunctions are:

• Gearbox noise. In neutral, this happens when the oil in the box is reduced or contaminated or the bearings wear out. In transmission, the problem may be in the synchronizer, licked teeth and dead bearings. When changing gears, the problem may be an unadjusted clutch, bearings, synchronizer, misalignment of the clutch housing and crankshaft, as well as deformed clutch forks and gearbox.
• Vibrations. Typical for internal combustion engines with disrupted operation in neutral or when fastenings are destroyed (including self-unscrewing of bolts).
• Leaking oil. The reason is most often in oil seals, gaskets, excess oil level or deformation of the transmission itself.
• The gear shifts with difficulty or does not shift at all. The problem here can also be in the clutch, as well as in other factors - contamination, lack of oil, wear of couplings, springs, gears.
• The transmission turns off by itself. There are many reasons - synchronizers, grooves, springs, spontaneous loosening of bolts and others.

Cable transmission

If you suspect clutching, take a closer look at the problem. It is far from certain that it is exactly to blame.

How long a gearbox will last depends directly on how you use the car. And the comfort, safety and controllability of your car depend on the service life of the gearbox.

If you do not want to repair the Lada Granta gearbox, follow a number of simple recommendations:

• With a manual transmission, one of the main operating factors is shifting gears with the clutch pedal fully depressed. You cannot change gears when it is not completely turned off. This leads to accelerated licking of the gear teeth. You need to choose a gear that matches your speed. It is best to move in fourth gear - it is direct and uses a minimum of gears. Accordingly, their wear is reduced. Speed ​​range – 70-100 km/h.
• In winter, you should not leave the car in gear for a long time. This is unsafe and damages the transmission. After you start the engine, even if the car is in neutral, it may jerk.
• Lubrication of all components also has an effect. Periodically check the gearbox housing for oil leaks. They usually appear near the oil filler neck. Change your oil on time. The approximate replacement period is 50-70 thousand kilometers. Do not mix oils of different brands, as this may cause increased wear of all rubbing parts.

The recommendations are quite simple to follow. Repairing a cable transmission on a Lada Granta is neither easy nor cheap, so stick to them.

Clutch box design "Lada-Grants"

On this car, this unit is no different from that installed in the Lada-Kalina. This is a mechanism consisting of a flywheel on which a special basket is attached. It must constantly press the disc with the friction linings. Thanks to this, torque begins to be transmitted to the transmission.

When we talk about a cable-type clutch on a Lada Grant, in this case it means that when the car owner presses the pedal, the cable that is connected to the clutch fork is tensioned, and special petals stop pressing the disc. Accordingly, the torque from the power unit is no longer transmitted to the gearbox.

There is only one clutch disc on the Lada Grant. This unit itself is a friction unit, equipped with a diaphragm-shaped spring. The clutch is combined with the gearbox in one housing.

Tips, tricks and useful repair videos

1. Follow general recommendations for transmission operation to increase service life.2. Service life is 80-100 thousand pedal cycles, do not press or hold the clutch unnecessarily.3. Before installation, generously lubricate the new VP.4. Removing a manual transmission is a time-consuming operation (2 hours), so it is recommended to immediately troubleshoot the disk, fork, flywheel, and also replace the cable if necessary. 5. Do not purchase spare parts at the car market or other dubious retail outlets.6. Watch useful videos on repairing, replacing clutches and more!

1. Clutch Lada Granta and its possible malfunctions

2. Adjusting and replacing the clutch cable on a Lada Granta

3. Operations for adjusting the clutch cable Lada Granta

4. How to eliminate squeaks and clicks in the Granta clutch pedal

Lada Granta clutch and its possible malfunctions

The car has a clutch from the Lada Kalina model. The clutch is a flywheel on which a basket is attached. The basket constantly presses the clutch disc, and it is due to this that torque is transmitted to the gearbox from the engine. When you press the clutch pedal, a metal cable connected to the clutch fork is stretched. The petals of the basket are wrung out and stop pressing the disk towards the flywheel, while no torque is transmitted from the engine.

Here is a drawing for reference only, with the design of the Lada Granta clutch.

Preparation for repair

To remove and subsequently replace the clutch, prepare a set of tools consisting of:

• center punch;
• extension cord;
• funnels;
• heads (8, 10, 15, 17, 19 and 30 mm);
• high head (13 mm);
• heads Torx E12 and Torx E14;
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• curved spanners (8 and 13 mm);
• straight spanners (17 and 19 mm);
• two adjustable stops;
• metal brush;
• ratchet wrench;
• caliper;
• stands;
• hammer;
• jack;
• balloon wrench;
• torque wrench;
• centering mandrel.

In addition, you will need to apply certain parts and consumables. So, you will need CV joint-4 lubricant, a guide pin M12×1.25 mm, transmission oil, wood blocks, a technical container, a hose, rags and the clutch itself.

Preparatory stage before replacing the clutch on the Lada Grant

Necessary tools, materials:

• set of car keys, sockets, ratchet;
• extension;
• calipers;
• additional lighting;
• screwdrivers with a set of bits;
• mounting blade;
• pliers;
• hammer;
• metal brush;
• hydraulic (mechanical) jack;
• cylinder and torque wrench;
• graphite-based lubricant “CV joint-4”;
• container for draining waste;
• 6 liters of gear oil;
• clutch assembly;
• wooden spacers;
• rags.

How to replace the cable in the clutch mechanism?

How to properly replace a clutch cable? Below are detailed aspects of the instructions to successfully replace the cable.

1. First, we begin to unscrew the cable nut from the bracket, which is located under the dashboard. We perform this action using the key set to “8”, after which access to dismantling the bracket stop appears.
2. We disconnect the locking bracket, which is located on the “finger”.
3. Next, remove the body of the compensation device (use a screwdriver).
4. We remove the fluoroplastic bushing from the pedal pin.
5. We visually monitor the assembly element for wear. If such “artifacts” are present on the surface of the bushing, then we definitely replace it by pre-treating it with grease.
6. We dismantle the cable seal, which is mounted in the technological hole of the frontal shield of the body (in the photo it can be seen from the engine compartment).
7. Pull the cable end as you move until it is removed from the fork groove.
8. Using the key “17” we “defeat” the nut by means of which the cable tip is held on the corresponding bracket of the transmission unit. To prevent the tip from turning, we use an additional key.
9. Now we proceed to dismantling the cable end, after which we remove this element from the hole. The cable itself can also be removed.
10. Having completed the indicated manipulations, we begin the installation of a new unit.
11. First, we pass the cable into the previously designated hole in the front shield.
12. We treat the bushing with a special compound and fix the wear compensation element on the corresponding pin.
13. Now we attach the cable directly to the pedal and return the previously removed seal to its place.
14. We move on to installing the tip on the LADA Granta transmission bracket. Screw the retaining nut with the required torque (do not overdo it).
15. We remember the need to tighten the leash.
16. We continue the installation procedure by moving the lower tip in the forward direction until a feeling of stop occurs.
17. We hold the tip in the designated position and at the same time measure the distance that was illuminated by us earlier (more specifically: in the “leash-fork” section). If the parameter is incorrect, rotate the leash until the optimal value appears.
18. We remember the need to lubricate the body of the leash before installing it in the knot. The surface in contact with the fork must be lubricated.
19. The final action is to press the pedal to its full value multiple times. Then we again make a control measurement in the “fork – leash” sector and, if it deviates from the regulations (27 mm), we make a re-regulation. This completes the clutch cable replacement.

Do-it-yourself clutch installation on a Lada Granta

1. Using a mandrel, we install the driven disk, basket, and centering pins.
2. We fix the basket to the flywheel with three bolts. We tighten the bolts evenly according to the diagonal principle with a force of 37 N.m. We use a torque wrench.
3. We remove the frame and install the manual transmission.
4. We fix the clutch drive on the manual transmission.
5. We adjust the distance from the plastic bushing to the drive fork. It should be equal to 27 mm. We adjust the key value to “10”.

We measure 10 mm

Replacing the cable

To change the cable, you need to carry out a number of simple operations:

in the car interior (under the panel), the nut that secures the cable to the pedal assembly is unscrewed;

the braid stopper is removed from the pin;

• use pliers to remove the locking bracket;
• the pedal axle is removed;
• the pedal bracket spring is also dismantled;
• use pliers to pull it towards you and remove the tip stop;
• the pedal is released from the cable end;
• the cable sheath seal is removed (in the engine compartment);

• the tip of the cable connected to the plug must be pulled forward towards you and pulled out of the groove;
• dismantle the tip driver;
• remove the guide bushing;
• pull the Lada Granta clutch cable through the hole between the engine compartment and the car interior.

Before installing a new cable, it must be lubricated. To do this, a little machine oil is poured between it and its shell. Install the new cable in reverse order

It is impossible not to pay attention to the imperfection of the cable tension mechanism. The reason for its squeaking may be:

• plastic bushing on the pedal;
• plastic leash;
• cable (cable and its sheath);
• gearbox input shaft.

Most of the reasons can be eliminated very simply - you need to lubricate the rubbing parts, for example, with lithol. The same applies to the input shaft - creaking occurs due to lack of bearing lubrication. To lubricate it, you need to get to the fork boot and, pulling it back, generously pump graphite lubricant inside.

The clutch of the Lada Grant remains the same as before. Exactly the same single-disk mechanisms were installed on previous models - Priora, first-generation Kalina, VAZ 2110, 2109, 2108. The plant only partially modified the design, providing it with higher quality parts. Additionally, an automatic cable tensioner has appeared, which in itself is an additional source of malfunctions. This is a fairly old development, and during its use no measures have been taken to eliminate the most common problems. On the contrary, engineers complicated the design by adding additional elements. On the other hand, the Lada Granta clutch is inexpensive to maintain, and you can buy all the necessary spare parts in every car store. Any car owner can replace the Lada Granta clutch with his own hands. Availability and simplicity of design remain AvtoVAZ’s priorities, although quality is not in first place.

Release bearing Gearbox 2181, Clutch release clutch Gearbox 2181 - replacement in Lada Granta

Well, I was struck by the death of the release bearing with a mileage of 23 thousand km, also known as the clutch release clutch of the gearbox 2181. Judging by people's reviews, this bearing does not last more than 30 thousand km. In the evening everything was fine. The next day in the morning, while squeezing the clutch, I noticed that it was somehow not being pressed correctly, I thought, maybe it seemed, and after 20 - 30 km the clutch disappeared altogether.

With the car running, I could not turn on the first and rear, 3,4,5 turned on with difficulty, and after a while they did not turn on. But with the car turned off, all transmissions were switched on. Having opened the hood, I pulled the clutch fork, it dangled as desired in different directions, i.e. was not fixed. Having reached the garage under my own power (25 km), I began to find out the reason. I disassembled and removed everything unnecessary that interfered with removing the box. We unscrewed and separated the box from the engine and supports, hung it by the CV joints (in this position it is problematic to install it later, it is better to read a repair book). The problem became immediately clear - the release bearing had died. Among other release bearings, I chose a roughly similar one - the Priorov one, but it still needed to be installed somehow, and for it to still work. In the 2181 gearbox there is a release fork similar to a fork from a cornfield, based on this I decided to also buy a release bearing spring from a cornfield (or from a VAZ 2101) that secures the bearing to the fork.

on the left - Grantovsky, on the right - Priorovsky bearing

action plan

+spring

hanging the box

modified Priorov bearing sits on the shaft

The spring is installed in the bearing groove and fixes the fork on the other side, i.e. the fork is clamped by a spring, if something is not clear, then read the manual for replacing the release bearing in the field.

Well, that’s all, actually. I put the box back, assembled everything, and connected it. Works great. Don’t forget to lubricate the shaft where the bearing sits and the splines with a lubricant like lithol, but not too much because if you overdo it, then when the shaft rotates, lubricant can splash onto the clutch disc, and it will slip. After these procedures, the clutch pedal became a little softer, and the gears shifted better. I drove more than 100 km, everything is fine, time will tell how long it will last. Well, everyone decides for themselves to change the original 2181 release bearing every 30tkm or less, or install another one with modifications. The release bearing should last for the entire service life of the clutch, i.e. operating time to failure is at least 800 thousand “off-on” cycles of the clutch, which is equivalent to a car mileage of 100,000 km, and a bearing that falls apart up to 30 thousand km.

Reviews

Conclusion

The clutch installed on the Lada Grant is copied from the Lada Kalina. The mechanism has proven itself well, the warranty period is “nursing” (100,000 km).

A number of negative reviews about the Lada Granta are unfounded. Many unit failures are associated with violation of operating conditions, aggressive driving style, and failure to comply with technical inspection deadlines.

Often the reason for premature clutch wear is that drivers save money on monthly maintenance and purchase cheap spare parts. After all, a low-quality part cannot work for a long time without breaking.

Source

Clutch installation

Before you begin assembling the clutch, you must wash each removed element in kerosene. Then apply a thin layer of CV joint-4 lubricant to the guide sleeve of the release bearing and to the spline of the input shaft. The installation of parts begins with the release bearing, after which the clutch fork, spring and bushing are installed.

Next, the clutch is centered using a special frame inserted into the hole in the crankshaft end, while the driven disc is placed on the frame so that the protrusion located on the hub faces the gearbox. After this, the clutch basket is installed, and the centering frame is removed. Then you will need to install the gearbox in its proper place.

After installation, check and monitor the gear shifting process; they should turn on clearly, without clearly audible extraneous crunching sounds. In addition, ideally the car will move away without jerking.

What to pay attention to

There are certain signs that the clutch on the Lada Grant has failed and action needs to be taken. It is worth paying attention that if the car has just been purchased, the pedal will be pressed quite easily. If this requires great effort, then this is the first evidence that the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced.

It is also worth paying attention to the appearance of extraneous squeaks at the moment when the driver presses the pedal. In addition, it should not twitch when the car owner does not touch it.

Most often, car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that the pedal travel becomes too tight. It is worth considering in more detail the reasons for this problem.

Replacing the clutch on a Lada Grant (robot)

The process of prevention and replacement is similar to that described above. Provided the recommendations are followed, the repairman will not have any problems with the installation.

The main task is not to damage the upper actuator when dismantling/installing the automatic transmission. To make disassembling the automatic transmission easier, first remove the subframe cross member. We lower the two engine mounts, remove the automatic transmission, and replace the clutch. When finished, assemble the structure in reverse order.

Fork

A tight pedal motion can also occur if this element needs to be lubricated. A characteristic sign of problems associated with the plug is that an unpleasant creaking noise is constantly heard during operation of the unit.

In order to solve the problem, you must first remove the entire air filter along with the housing. After this, the plastic bushing of the fork is carefully pryed off, and silicone grease is sprayed under it. You can also use the popular WD40.

Selection of components

The clutch life on Grants depends on the operating conditions in which the car is located, and therefore can have significant differences. When using the car sparingly, the clutch is changed after 100,000 km. One of the most common types of clutch installed by the Volzhsky Automobile Plant is LUK clutches.

As a rule, clutches are sold in the form of kits, which include a clutch disc and basket, as well as a release bearing. The approximate cost of clutches for Granta starts at 2,000 rubles and can vary significantly in a particular region.

To purchase an original kit and not a counterfeit, buy parts only in specialized retail outlets, based on real customer reviews, or order the kit directly from the manufacturer (for example, using the Internet). Sometimes clutches are assembled from components made by different manufacturers.

general information

Like the vast majority of modern cars, the Lada Granta is equipped with a fairly simple clutch, which contains only a few elements.
The clutch (also called the clutch basket) includes a housing, a driven disc, and a throwout bearing. The casing, in addition to itself, also includes a pressure disk; in addition, a complex part is the driven disk, consisting of a damper, friction linings and a ring.

Each Granta is equipped with a closed-type single-plate clutch, which has a special element designed to dampen vibrations generated during rotational moments during shifts. The coupling is ensured by dry friction between the driven disc and the friction linings, which is why this type of clutch is called dry.

In addition, clutches on Grants are devoid of gaps between the release bearings and the legs of the pressure springs located in the casing, which is their main distinguishing feature compared to all previous modifications.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

*prices are current as of October 30, 2018.

Features of correct adjustment of the unit

Quite often, clutch-related problems are solved by standard adjustments. However, such measures must be carried out based on the recommendations of specialists and experienced car owners. First of all, you need to turn off the engine. After this, just press the pedal several times and listen to the sounds. If no grinding or creaking is heard, then the adjustment continues.

If the Lada-Granta clutch pedal gets stuck or it moves jerkily, then its position needs to be adjusted. First of all, you need to completely squeeze it out with your hand. It is better not to use your foot, as in this case it will be much more difficult to feel minor jamming or, conversely, jerking at the moment when the lever returns to its original position.

If you manage to find out that the pedal twitches a little, then you need to arm yourself with a ruler and determine the distance from the floor to the pedal, or rather, the part that protrudes outward. After this, while continuing to hold the measuring device, the car owner must press the lever and wait until it returns to the same position. If the values ​​on the ruler diverge or the distance is more than 14.5 cm, then in this case you need to make adjustments. It is worth noting that the full pedal travel should not be more than 146 mm. The cable guide cannot move in relation to the fork lever by more than 2.7 cm.

Finding the reason

One of the owners of a Lada Kalina (VAZ 11194) decided to check where there was such noise from the transmission in the cabin. With the help of spot wiretapping, he was able to find out that some of the vibrations from the gearbox are transmitted to the cabin through the clutch cable. This was confirmed by a simple experiment:

1. raised the front wheels
2. turned on first speed
3. raised the speed to 4500-5000 rpm
4. Reduced the speed to 1500 rpm using the brake pedal without releasing the gas pedal

Then, the same thing was done with the clutch cable disconnected from the gearbox fork. The familiar sound of “hrrrrr.” "disappeared. The sounds were recorded in an mp3 file (before the pause - with a cable, after - without it). Site users can download the file:

To download files you need to log in to the site.

Conclusion : the clutch cable is a transmitter of vibrations from the gearbox fork.

A similar situation may occur on Lada Grant and Priora cars.

Signs of clutch wear

Types of faults

All types of clutch malfunctions installed on Grants are divided into the following groups:

1. The clutch cannot be completely disengaged. The reasons for this type of breakdown lie in incomplete pedal travel, vibrations and possible jamming in the driven disk hub, warpage and distortion in the pressure disk, loose rivets and faulty friction linings. In addition, such a problem is often caused by a malfunction of the drive cable, a breakdown of the compensation mechanism, or disturbances in the mechanism that compensates for the wear of the driven disk linings.
2. The clutch cannot be fully engaged. This breakdown can occur due to wear of the friction linings or due to their oiling. Other reasons for this malfunction include an oily surface of the flywheel and clutch basket and jamming (or damage) on the clutch drive.
3. The clutch works with jerks. This violation is caused by oily friction linings, as well as an oily flywheel and clutch basket, a stuck drive and a damaged pressure plate surface.
4. An increase in noise level when the clutch is engaged is caused by a malfunction of the damper springs.
5. An increase in noise level during clutch disengagement is caused by a leak from the release bearing, as well as its damage or wear.

As a rule, if the clutch pedal fails and clicking and creaking sounds are detected during its operation, most often you just need to replace the clutch cable. Exactly how this procedure is performed will be discussed below.

How do I replace the clutch assembly or its components?

Many are also interested in the question of how the clutch is replaced. Next, we will consider the features of replacing a disc or other elements in the clutch units of Lada Granta, Prior and Kalin. Choosing a clutch is not difficult, since the market is represented by many offers. This aspect is influenced not only by individual preference, but also by the price factor.

The disc replacement process is identical, regardless of the modification of the designated VAZ models, including the Lada Granta. Having decided on the choice of element, we proceed to the direct replacement procedure.

1. The initial action will be to dismantle the LADA Granta transmission unit.
2. If you plan to reinstall the pressure plate (basket), you will need to first mark the location of the flywheel and housing. This manipulation allows you to save balancing and install the disk in a position identical to the element previously located here.
3. Next, we mount a special bushing (mandrel) into the central hole of the pressure element. If such a mandrel is not observed, then it is possible to dismantle the assembly without it, but you will need to hold the driven disk during removal in order to prevent it from falling out.
4. To eliminate the risk of the flywheel turning, we arm ourselves with a locking component (screwdriver or mounting blade).
5. We unscrew the 6 bolts that hold the basket on the flywheel. The action should be characterized by uniformity and without completely removing first one screw, then the second, etc.
6. Now we remove the casing together with the driven disk.
7. Having detected the presence of damage on the surface of the assembly elements, the next step is a complete replacement of the clutch.
8. We focus special attention on the degree of wear of the friction linings on the disk in LADA Granta. When it is discovered that they are oiled or the rivets are deepening, we urgently replace such an element. We check the rigidity of the damper springs. If they are found to be damaged, the disk must also be recycled. We inspect the disc for runout. If its value exceeds 1 mm, then this fact means the part is unsuitable for use.
9. We inspect the pressure element and the flywheel, especially the plane of their contact. Areas with scuff marks, signs of overheating and wear are strictly unacceptable.
10. We study in detail the condition of the disc spring, on the surface of which traces of the indicated defects are also unacceptable. The contact points of the petals of this part to the bearing device (“release”), which carries out the process of disengaging the clutch of the disc with the flywheel, must be in a single plane. No defects are appropriate in this case, and the discrepancy should not exceed 0.8 mm. If this parameter is not maintained, then a complete replacement of the clutch is necessary.
11. Don't forget to inspect the spring support rings. It also excludes the presence of any defects.
12. When, based on the completed set of testing manipulations, the fact of the need to replace certain elements of the clutch assembly or the entire assembly structure has been identified, then before starting work it will be necessary to monitor the characteristics of the movement of the driven disk along the corresponding section of the transmission unit shaft. If, during movement, the fact of jamming, jamming, or other aspects that do not allow free movement of the disk emerges, then these negative factors must be eliminated without fail. When achieving such a result is not possible, you should resort to replacing the entire list of defective parts.
13. When carrying out the installation procedure, it is imperative to take into account the issue related to the correct installation of the driven disk in relation to the pressure component of the basket.
14. First, we center the disk, using the mandrel we previously designated for these purposes. This will require careful consideration to ensure the element is positioned correctly in relation to the flywheel.
15. Now we fix the basket directly to the flywheel using the bolts indicated here. We proceed by analogy with the dismantling procedure in terms of ensuring reliable retention of the flywheel from the risk of turning.
16. Do not forget about the correct tightening of the basket fixing bolts. The procedure involves an algorithm of actions with uniform screwing of each of the fasteners. It is impossible to fully tighten one particular bolt, since such an action may cause the basket to skew, thereby causing incorrect operation and uneven wear of the clutch elements.
17. The next step involves removing the previously installed mandrel from the corresponding recess in the center of the flywheel.
18. After this, you can attach the transmission unit to the engine block.
19. Now we mount the lower end of such a part as the clutch cable to the corresponding bracket on the gearbox housing, after which we carry out the previously indicated adjustment. Do not forget to install the compensation device in its original position, which will allow you to return the clutch cable to its original position. This procedure is necessary so that the compensation device, shifted to its lowest position, can signal to the owner that the disc is worn out. Replacement of the clutch cable in the LADA Granta has been completed.

Signs and causes of malfunctions

Symptoms of DPKV failure:

• the engine cannot be started or it spontaneously stalls after a while;
• no sparking;
• ICE detonation periodically occurs under dynamic loads;
• unstable idle speed;
• engine power and vehicle dynamics decrease;
• when switching modes, a spontaneous change in the speed occurs;
• The Check Engine light came on on the dashboard.

Symptoms indicate the following reasons why the PCV sensor may be faulty:

• a short circuit between the turns in the winding, the signal about the position of the piston at BDC and TDC may be distorted;
• the wire connecting the DPKV to the ECU is damaged - the proper notification does not reach the on-board computer;
• defective teeth (scuffs, chips, cracks), the engine may not start;
• the entry of foreign objects between the toothed pulley and the meter or damage during work in the engine compartment often causes a malfunction of the DPKV.

Problems starting the engine

Variants of crankshaft sensor malfunction affecting the internal combustion engine:

1. The engine does not start. When you turn the key in the ignition, the starter turns the engine and the fuel pump hums. The reason is that the engine ECU, not receiving the signal from the crankshaft position sensor, cannot correctly direct the command: in which cylinder to give a spark, and in which to open the injector.
2. The engine warms up to a certain temperature and stalls or does not start in severe frost. There is only one reason - a microcrack in the winding of the PCV sensor.

Unstable engine operation in various modes

This happens when the DPKV is contaminated, especially when metal shavings or oil get on it. Even a slight impact on the synchronization sensor of magnetic microchips changes its performance characteristics, because the meter is highly sensitive.

Presence of engine detonation with increasing load

The most common reason is a failure of the measuring device, as well as a microcrack in the winding that diverges due to vibration, or a split in the housing into which moisture enters.

Signs of engine detonation:

• disruption of the smooth combustion process of the fuel-air mixture in the internal combustion engine cylinders;
• pops in the receiver or exhaust system;
• misfires;
• a clear decrease in engine power.

Reduced engine power

Engine power drops when the command to supply the air-fuel mixture is untimely. The cause of the malfunction is the delamination of the damper and the shift of the toothed star in relation to the pulley. Motor power is also reduced due to damage to the winding or housing of the crankshaft position meter.

Clutch adjustment methods

There are two methods for adjusting the clutch. When regulating it in the first way, you must:

• pick up the tip, after which it is pulled forward to the maximum possible value;
• Use a caliper to measure the distance between the leash and the fork, normally it is 27 mm;
• If you find any problems, adjust the length of the cable by tightening the thread;
• Next, you should press the clutch three times and make sure that it functions normally.

If problems arise, take new measurements with a caliper (the distance from one extreme point to the other cannot exceed 146 mm). If this indicator is exceeded, a new cable must be installed.

The second adjustment method is an alternative, thanks to which you can adjust the clutch without a caliper. The beginning of alternative adjustment is no different from adjusting the clutch in the first way. When the leash is snug against the fork, you depress the clutch three times, then open the hood to make sure that the leash is pressed to the metal as before? One of the mandatory conditions for adjustment is the complete absence of movement of the fork or its minimal mobility (not exceeding 2 mm).

Each car owner can use both the first and second methods, since the automatic adjustment system still will not relieve him of the obligation to periodically carry out the work described above. Remember - even with a properly functioning cable, you still need to open the hood of your car at least from time to time.

Don’t forget one more recommendation from experienced car owners: to make adjustments, don’t wait for obvious problems to appear in the clutch. It is best to carry it out regularly (once every 10,000 km), because adjustment will help you protect yourself from clutch problems. And when carrying out this procedure again, do not forget to also evaluate the condition of the cable. If cracks or thinning are found on it, it is recommended to replace the part immediately.

Sources

• https://FB.ru/article/465967/stseplenie-ladyi-granta-obzor-vozmojnyie-neispravnosti-i-otzyivyi
• https://evrasia-today.ru/skolko-hodit-stseplenie-na-grante/
• https://vaz-remont.ru/kak-zamenit-vyzhimnoj-podshipnik-na-lada-granta-svoimi-silami/
• https://Vaz-Lada-Granta.com/dvigatel-korobka/zamenit-tros-stsepleniya.html
• https://cartore.ru/153-kogda-menyat-sceplenie-srok-sluzhby-i-kak-proverit.html
• https://new-granta.ru/sceplenie/
• https://remont-avtovaz.ru/instrukciya-po-zamene-scepleniya-na-lade-grante/
• https://www.spike.su/index.php/%D0%92%D1%8B%D0%B6%D0%B8%D0%BC%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B9-%D0% BF%D0%BE%D0%B4%D1%88%D0%B8%D0%BF%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA-%D0%9B%D0%B0%D0%B4%D0%B0 -%D0%93%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%BD%D1%82%D0%B0.html