Why does water appear under the passenger mat of a VAZ 2114

VAZ 2114 water under the rugs after rain where it can leak"

.Water in the interior of a VAZ 2114.

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15 comments on “Water in the interior of the VAZ 2114. VAZ 2114 water under the rugs after rain where it can leak” ”

Look at the rubber seal on the windshield

In the lower corner of the windshield

Are you sure the water is not antifreeze?

under which ones exactly

Replace with a new windshield seal. I had the same problem. The rubber is drying.

Carpet, felt, you lift up rubber plugs in the floor and it runs through them, you take it, change it and coat it with sealant, and everything is luxury :)

Through the windshield it’s the same for me...

Denis, if there is antifreeze then the pump has failed.

I also have a welded casing on the heater motor under the hood, I had the whole one broken, also all the water flowed into the interior when it rained, but I installed a new one and tightened it well, no more problems) the previous owner smeared all the rubber with glue and it didn’t help him at all))))

Look at the place where the fuse block is located. There is a metal connection on the side of the wing and coat it with automotive plasticine. It dried out or fell out. I had this myself. I suffered for a month; the carpet was all rotted, okay, at least the metal was fine. I covered it with sealant. Now it’s as dry as ever. desert. Look, it’s pouring a hundred pounds from there. It’s advisable for two people to do this, one from the bottle pours some water and the second watches. Pull the carpet out more

There's a hood cable running right next to it.

I used a small round file to make more drainage and everything stopped leaking.

Drainage on seal

I always had damp under the carpet on the passenger side. I got through everything, including the fuse box, the windshield, and near the right glass where the corrugation with wires enters the cabin. in the end it turned out that water flowed through the central drainage hole (which is near the heater motor casing) onto the metal protective plate of the steering rack, and from this plate the water flowed directly onto the heater hoses that enter the cabin. One hose did not have a seal, and it turned out that the hole in the body was larger than the diameter of the hose. That's where the hose began to leak. I advise you to pull out the carpet, Shumka and all the other rags that are lying there from the interior, pour water from a hose or a bucket onto the front of the car, and if the leak is good, you will immediately see where the drops are coming from on the metal. I found it like this

There are plugs in the floor. Was. Well, once again, it’s true that during a heavy downpour, a drop of water dripped onto my face from the hole through which the wires from the motor go into the cabin.

1200 rub. for the photo report

We pay for photo reports on car repairs. Earnings from 10,000 rubles/month.

Write:

The rainy season always brings some new surprises to car owners. Either “triple”, or poor starting, and for some it’s even more original, such as water under the rug. What a surprise for the driver when, upon opening the car doors, he discovers a puddle of water either on the driver’s side or on the passenger’s side. The question immediately arises: where did the water come from?

It would be nice if there was some kind of rusty trough, then there would be at least some considerations, but it looks like it’s not old, but there’s a flood. Just to solve such issues, I will cite the main weak points and holes through which water leaks, by how to visually determine the influx of water it will not be possible at all... The problem seems to be general and applies not only to domestically produced cars, but also to foreign cars. The rug also often catches me.

When water gets under the passenger mat of a VAZ

If moisture appears in the car interior, then the driver has no peace of mind until he figures out what’s wrong and fixes the leak. Most often, such a nuisance happens after rain. The most common cause is a windshield that is not sealed properly, which allows raindrops to enter the cabin.

It happens that you have to disassemble the door in order to make sure that the plastic screens, whose function is to close the technological windows, are in order. You can check the windshield by having someone spray it while watching from below what is happening.

The following can happen if the channels are clogged: the water flow will split, one part will go to the driver's side, the other to the passenger's seat. Then, under the hood, the water will go into the drain hole, and through the body it will begin to flow to the stove pipes.

But in VAZ 2114, 2107, water can accumulate on the floor if the rubber seals, which are located on the inside along the perimeter of the door, are worn out. Worn seals, which now do not fit tightly, can be identified immediately - the rubber becomes torn and shrunken.

So it's time to replace them. In this case, professionals advise installing double seals, so before disassembling half the machine in search of the cause, you need to check if there are any cracks that allow moisture to pass through. During assembly, they can also make a mistake and install them incorrectly, therefore, even if the car is completely new and water appears in the cabin, the seals should be checked first. The main thing is that the glass and the body are one.

Clogged drainage holes in the bottom may leak water. In this case, it is enough to clean them. Previously, they were made of rubber, but now they are using plastic, which allows water to pass through.

It happens that it is poorly adjusted, then, especially during a trip in rainy weather, it is very easy to get water into the cabin through the resulting gaps.

How moisture accumulates in a car

She gets there in several ways:

• The first way moisture gets in is the absence of rubber plugs in the lower part of the body that cover the drainage holes. Any trip in the rain will result in water in the lower parts of the body.
• Sunroof. A poorly closed sunroof during rain or car washing will also lead to water in the cabin. The rubber bands that seal the hatch can dry out from age, so water can seep through them.
• If the trunk seal is not doing its job, water will accumulate under the spare tire.
• Another way water forms in body cavities is through condensation. But in order to harm the car, there must be a lot of condensation, and it forms only under certain conditions.
• Water also gets into the car when the drain holes under the windshield are clogged. Rainwater is collected like in a bathtub and poured into the air intake of the stove. Through the filter it enters the passenger compartment on the passenger side.

All car enthusiasts are well aware of how water affects body parts. In those places where water stagnates, rust forms, and then corrosion. If nothing is done, the car will rot from the inside.

Where are the drainage holes located?

Drainage holes are located in the lower part of the body. There are small holes at the bottom of each door (including the trunk). Photo: drive2.ru

Some of them are closed with a rubber seal, while others are closed with small rubber plugs. These are the drainage holes on the doors.

There are also drainage holes at the bottom of the thresholds. The largest drain is located in the trunk under the spare tire. It is located in the center. There are smaller drains in the side compartments of the trunk. There are drainage holes under the windshield in the body that are supposed to drain water from the wipers.

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You will learn about the features of checking a car through the automobile registry of pledges from this material.

How often should drain holes be checked?

As a rule, holes should be checked at least twice a year - in spring and autumn. In the fall - a must! But if this happens, the driver drove along shallow rivers or deep puddles, then the car must be checked immediately after the trip.

Not all drainage holes are sealed with plugs. Small ones are left open specifically to allow moisture to drain. But such holes are also worth checking, as they can become clogged with dirt, dust, leaves and not perform their function.

How to tell if the drain holes are not working

There are several signs that can help you determine that there is something wrong with your drainage holes.

• Wet floor in the cabin after every rain.
• Spread of mold and mildew throughout the lower part of the cabin.
• Unpleasant, musty smell.
• Fogging of windows at any time of the year and in any weather, despite the fact that the stove cannot cope.
• Strange squelching sounds when driving that shouldn't exist.
• Excessive spread of corrosion throughout the lower parts of the body.
• Water in the passenger's feet during rain or after washing.
• The smell of mustiness and rot after turning on the stove.

Cleaning and flushing the radiator of the VAZ 2114/15 stove

You can increase the efficiency of the stove by cleaning and flushing the radiator. The procedure can be performed without dismantling the radiator or with dismantling it. In the first case, you will need to remove the outlet and inlet pipes from the heater and pour a cleaning solution into it. Citric acid, plumbing cleaners (for example, “Mole”), etc. are used as such a solution. Then the radiator is washed with running water and coolant is added. You can clean the radiator better by removing it from the car. This will allow you to wash it not only from the inside, but also from the outside, removing dirt between the honeycombs. Washing is usually carried out with running water.

If after performing these procedures the stove does not work better, the radiator must be replaced.

Video: flushing the stove radiator

Thus, diagnosing a malfunction and determining the cause of poor heating of the VAZ 2114/15 interior with your own hands is quite simple. Self-repair and replacement of individual elements of the heating system are also not very difficult. It is enough just to strictly follow the recommendations of specialists.

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Lubricate body seals

To prevent doors from freezing in winter and extend the service life of rubber seals, we apply silicone grease to the external and internal seals:

• Door seals
• Glass guides
• Trunk seal

An example of cleaning the drainage holes on a Lada Vesta car:

How often do you clean the drainage holes and lubricate the rubbing parts of the body? Do not forget to follow other recommendations during regular maintenance (see plan for XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta/Kalina, Priora, Lada 4×4).

AvtoVAZ recommendations: the standard protective complex (anti-corrosion treatment) is sufficient to protect the body from corrosion during average vehicle operation. It only makes sense to use additional anticorrosion protection (2 years after purchase) if you intend to use the car for 8-10 years.

Water under the passenger mat of a VAZ 2114 can appear for various reasons. Every owner takes care of his own car, and as soon as even a small malfunction occurs, he immediately begins to sound the alarm, trying to quickly “cure” the car. It would seem that water under the passenger mat of a VAZ 2114 does not cause much concern, but this must be eliminated immediately so that there are no more serious problems in the future.

Reasons for decreased performance

Despite the simplicity of the design, problems with the VAZ-2114 stove often arise. They are mainly associated with a drop in the performance of the heating system - the stove heats the air poorly, blows cold or slightly warm air. In this case, the reasons for poor operation of the stove can be both general (warming up is weak at any control unit settings) and when operating in a certain mode, for example, at idle. Or, for example, cold air or slightly warm air blows only on the side windows, and in other modes the heating works normally.

Common reasons why the stove stops heating:

• the heater radiator is clogged or an air lock has formed in it;
• when switched to heating mode, the heater damper does not fit tightly to the body, which is why part of the air flow moves bypassing the radiator and enters the cabin cold;
• the tap does not open completely - this is one of the main reasons for a poorly heating stove;
• the formation of cracks at the joints of the housing and air ducts, which causes strong dispersion of the air flow.

It is not difficult to determine the cause of a general decrease in the efficiency of the heating system. To find out why the VAZ-2114 stove does not heat well, you need to remove the side decorative panels from the center console, and then warm up the engine and turn on the stove at maximum power. After this, we try the antifreeze supply pipe to the heater radiator up to the tap and behind it. The same heating temperature of the tube on both sides indicates that the tap is working properly and the problem lies in the radiator. If after the tap the pipe is less warmed up, the tap is jammed or does not open completely.

After this, we determine the temperature at the inlet and outlet pipes of the radiator. If the heat exchanger is not clogged and there is no plug in it, then the temperature of the outlet pipe will be lower than the inlet pipe. But if the outlet tube is cold, antifreeze does not circulate through the radiator, which indicates the formation of an air lock (airing) or clogging.

A common cause of failure of the VAZ-2114 stove is wear and play in the sliders. Because of this, even when they are moved to their extreme positions, the cables do not bring the valve and dampers to the stop (the valve remains closed, and the dampers do not block the air flow channels). This problem can be easily resolved - you need to make an adjustment and shorten the cables a little.

The problem of insufficient heating of one of the zones is associated with a violation of the damper control. This happens due to the same wear on the sliders, the cable jumping off the damper levers, the damper axes jumping out of the seats in the body, which is accompanied by clicks.

In addition to weak warming up, VAZ-2114 car owners are faced with the fact that the intensity of air flow decreases. This happens due to the dispersion of air through the cracks at the junction of the body and air ducts, clogging the latter with debris - many owners do not install cabin filters, so leaves get into the air ducts and interfere with air movement.

Thermal and sound insulation of the car

Domestic cars are known for the fact that in winter the interior is quite cold and very noisy when driving. This is all due to the unthought-out insulation of the car, that is, there is practically none at all.

Sidebar: Important: When upgrading a vehicle's interior, special attention should be paid to insulation. VAZ 2114 interior tuning is recommended to start with creating an insulating layer, and only after that move on to the trim, front panel or instrument panel

To begin with, you should pay attention to the fact that partial sound insulation will not give the desired result. That is why not only the interior should be insulated, but also the trunk, engine shield, doors, and dashboard

The principle of reducing noise in the cabin while driving is the same for all cars.

Work can be carried out after dismantling work has been completed and the following materials have been purchased:

1. Splen 3004 2. Stroyzol SD 90. 3. Accent 15 millimeters thick. 4. Vibroplast Gold. 5. Adgilin Vizomat.

Tools you will need:

1. Measuring tools: ruler, square, tape measure, level. 2. A construction heat gun with a fairly high power rating. 3. Set of screwdrivers. 4. A set of keys. 5. Knife and scissors. 6. Rags. 7. Pressure roller. 8. Degreaser.

Most of the time, as a rule, is spent on dismantling work. In order to speed up this work, you should use the services of an assistant. You can also find the car's operating manual with a detailed description of how to dismantle the interior. After removing all the trim and factory sound insulation, which is present in a small amount. The metal surface is cleaned of dirt and degreased.

Features of installation work include:

The first layer to be applied should be Vizomat MP. It is glued to the entire surface: trunk, floor, doors, ceiling surface. This material is applied by heating it with a hair dryer, after which the film is peeled off and rolled out using a roller. Everything must be done quickly enough. Therefore, you should first cut out the most suitable pieces of material

When gluing, you should pay attention to ensure that there are no gaps between individual pieces of material, and that there should be no bubbles. The final result depends on the quality of this stage. Vibration damper is used to absorb resonance that may occur during movement

Vibration is transmitted from the wheels to the body, which can be dampened with the help of such material. The vibration damper also acts as a heat-insulating material that can retain heat in winter and prevent warm air from entering the cabin in summer. An ideal job is when whole pieces are used. However, if the work is carried out without assistants, then this is quite difficult to achieve. When using separate pieces, they should be joined with an overlap of 20 centimeters. While performing work, do not forget that all technological openings, hatches, and ventilation grilles should not be sealed. They are necessary to maintain the correct microclimate and ventilate the body, which will prevent the appearance of mold. The vibration-absorbing material should cover as much area as possible. The result of the work carried out will depend on this.

Why does water get under the passenger's carpet?

Water may appear under the rug if the heater leaks, and then moisture will pass through the engine into the cabin.

The air intake of the stove can also bring a lot of trouble, since in order to eliminate constant puddles under your feet, you will have to clean the technical drain holes, which are located in the niche under the hood. Then it will be necessary to carry out additional repair work - seal the joints of the air duct and the body with high-quality sealant. It’s better not to waste money on it so that it lasts a long time.

When moisture constantly appears in the direction where the stove is located, it is advisable to figure out whether it is ordinary water or antifreeze. In this case, a damaged faucet is often to blame, and this can be determined by the steam that appears in the cabin; the antifreeze level sensor will also indicate a breakdown - it will definitely light up. Here are other reasons why puddles may form:

• Dampness may occur in the cabin if there is leakage in the area of ​​the mounting block and fuses through the gasket;
• the resulting puddle under the driver’s feet may appear, flowing down the steering rack and along the cables;
• if the fault still cannot be found, you need to check the injectors, don’t be too lazy to ring them - is everything in order here, is there a wire break.

Air conditioning is good to have in the cabin, but it can affect the accumulation of water under the passenger mat. The air conditioner has such a device - a condensate drain pipe, and sometimes it can simply fall out of its place, and then water will begin to get behind the seat trim. The consequences are not noticeable - constant dampness, you have to remove the seat, change the upholstery and seal.

A crack may appear in the fuse box, causing water to appear under the mats. You need to check the pedal from which the cable runs to the motor.

In any case, the leak must be eliminated, otherwise corrosion of the body will begin, which will be difficult to stop.

Body drainage holes

Condensation may form in the internal cavities of the body. To prevent moisture from causing corrosion, drainage holes are provided in the car body. Over time, they can become clogged with dirt. Check the condition of the drainage holes regularly (preferably after each wash) and clean them if necessary.

There are two drainage holes at the bottom edge of each door. To clean them, remove the edge of the rubber seal. The drainage holes in the trunk lid are also located at the bottom edge.

Regularly check the drainage holes in the engine compartment, which are located around the edges:

Heater fuse and reasons for its failure

Often the cause of malfunction of most components and systems of a car is a blown fuse. The stove is no exception. Failure of a 30A heating system fuse causes the fan motor to stop and air to stop flowing into the cabin. In this case, find an element marked F7 in the fuse block and replace it. The new fuse should also be rated 30A. If the fan does not work after this, the problem should be looked for elsewhere.

Heater fuse F7 is located in the mounting block under the hood on the driver's side

It is often difficult to determine that it is the fuse that has blown. It can fail due to a short circuit in the electrical wiring, a malfunction of the electric motor, severe clogging of the cabin filter and in a number of other situations. The difficulty lies in the fact that fuse F7 is simultaneously included in the rear window heating electrical circuit and is responsible for the cigarette lighter, glove compartment lighting and headlight washer motor. If it fails, all these components will not work.

Why the stove does not work or does not heat the air

If the stove fails, it either does not work at all, or it works but does not heat the air. In the first case, first check the fan wiring, starting with fuse F7. If the fuse is blown, replace it. Then they check the relay, which may not turn on the first time or only when the engine is warm. In this case, the relay is replaced with a new one.

Then the serviceability of the electric motor is assessed. To do this, power is directly supplied to its contacts from the battery. If the electric motor starts to operate at maximum speed, then it is in good condition. Otherwise, it will need to be repaired or replaced.

The intensity of the air flow is adjusted using a resistor having two spirals with resistances of 0.82 Ohm and 0.23 Ohm. In the first mode, the current flows through both spirals, in the second - only through a spiral with a resistance of 0.23 Ohms, in the third - bypassing the spirals, that is, without resistance at all. If the resistor is faulty, the fan will only operate in the third mode at maximum speed (handle in the extreme right position). The problem is solved by replacing the resistor, which is located on the driver's side above the accelerator pedal.

If the resistor is faulty, the heater fan will only be able to operate at maximum speed.

If cold air enters the cabin, this may be due to:

• Airlock. It could have formed when replacing the coolant, when the system was depressurized, or because there was insufficient amount of coolant in the system. To remove the plug, remove the heater radiator pipe, use a watering can to add antifreeze to the maximum and put the hose back in place. After starting the engine, coolant under pressure will displace the remaining air from the system.
• Stove tap jammed. This happens if the tap was not initially opened all the way, and during operation, oxide and scale formed on the inner surface, preventing the normal circulation of the liquid. You can try to open the tap using pliers or immediately replace it with a new one.
• The stove radiator is clogged. When using low-quality coolant, the radiator honeycombs may become clogged. The problem is solved by flushing or replacing the heat exchanger. The feasibility of washing is determined by the scale of contamination.
• Installation of a low-quality radiator. In a defective product, the honeycomb may be incorrectly soldered. The radiator should be replaced.
• Low pressure in the cooling system. If heat transfer increases at higher speeds, the pump needs to be replaced.
• Low coolant level. It is necessary to check the level and add antifreeze if necessary.
• Damage to the heater fan impeller. The impeller is carefully inspected and replaced if mechanical damage is detected.
• Cabin filter dirty. If it is heavily polluted, the power of the electric motor will not be enough to pump warm air into the cabin. The filter is replaced with a new one.
• Damage to the cylinder head gasket. If the cylinder head gasket is blown, white smoke will come out of the exhaust pipe. The problem is solved by replacing the gasket and dismantling the cylinder head.

If the stove is clogged, warm air will stop flowing into the cabin.

Why is antifreeze leaking from the stove?

A coolant leak in the heating system can occur from:

1. stove radiator;
2. stove tap;
3. stove pipes.

If a coolant leak occurs from the radiator, it is usually replaced with a new one. Repairs to restore tightness are usually complex and labor-intensive. In addition, if the radiator has been in use for a long time, its tubes become clogged with deposits and dirt, and, as a result, heat transfer decreases.

The valve opens and closes the coolant supply to the radiator, thereby regulating the heat in the cabin. Over time, it may begin to leak, as evidenced by the characteristic smell of antifreeze in the cabin, a puddle on the floor on the passenger side and a decrease in the coolant level in the expansion tank. The faucet cannot be repaired and in such cases is replaced entirely.

If the heater radiator starts to leak, it is usually replaced with a new one.

The cause of coolant leakage from the pipes is usually their wear - the rubber ages and cracks over time. When diagnosing a problem, you need to wipe the suspected leak areas with a rag and observe the outlet and inlet pipes on a warm engine. Worn hoses are always replaced with new ones.

Reasons for the appearance of antifreeze under the rug

What are the reasons for such a dangerous effect:

• The stove tap broke.
• Rupture of the material structure or surface of the heater radiator.

How to fix

Now that the causes have been identified, it is worth considering possible solutions to the problem. Before we begin, it should be noted that these reasons can easily be eliminated independently and it is not necessary to contact a car service. Let's look at how to solve the problem of antifreeze on the interior carpet.

Stove faucet

In the process of replacing the stove valve

In this case, the leakage of antifreeze may be caused by the fact that the heater faucet has worn out. Mostly, the leak will form under the driver's mat and occurs only in a certain operating mode of the heater. This malfunction can be treated simply by replacing the heater tap.

Heater radiator

Faulty heater radiator

The second most common reason is a leak from the heater core. Here you need to be careful and quickly fix the problem, since antifreeze gets not only onto the interior mats, but also affects its location.

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Is it worth changing the oil and antifreeze?

If both fluids have changed color and consistency, they must be replaced. This is the only way to completely remove water from the engine. But don’t rush to fill in good liquid right away.

It is important to flush the system thoroughly. These can be specialized cleaning fluids (so-called

“five minutes”), or cheap oil and antifreeze. The latter option is more gentle and is suitable for cars with a complex internal combustion engine. After filling the liquid, turn on the engine for 15-20 minutes, keeping it at different speeds. Afterwards, the flushing oil and antifreeze can be drained. Moisture will be completely removed from the system.

Lada 2112 Angel of QuartZ › Logbook › Water in the cabin (Possible causes)

This article was written with my own hand, so that you don’t suffer like I did :))

To start looking for a water problem, do you need to analyze the problem?

1. Water enters ONLY when moving

car in rain/wet weather2.
Water gets in CONSTANTLY
If this is option 1, then you need to check

all rubber door seals, especially the lower part.
Inspect the door upholstery after “bad weather.” If the upholstery is damp, most likely there is no plastic film in the door that seals it from the upholstery. If it is in place, then we go to the store and buy a door seal and an upper drain, adjust the locks, ensuring that the door is pressed tightly against the rubber seal. Tip:
For tighter contact between the seals and the door, you can insert a silicone hose inside the seal along the entire length of the seal. You can read how to do this here (Refinement of seals 2110)

If in your case water gets into the cabin even when parked in rainy weather, then read below:

Water under sound insulation in the cabin under standard sound insulation may appear for the following reasons.

1. Poorly glued/unstuck windshield

One of the most common causes of water leaking into the cabin. This defect is quite difficult to see; it mainly flows in the lower corners. In the upper ones everything is much simpler, water flows along the windshield pillars or through the sun visors

This defect can be determined by visual inspection.
Hydrocorrector plug
- may be missing or hanging on the hydraulic corrector pipes, for the reason that there are crooked craftsmen who conduct wiring for the alarm system through this hole, thereby removing the plug and forgetting to put it in. You can find it from the inside if you open the mounting block and feel hydraulic corrector pipes and follow their direction, behind the standard Shumka you can feel the hole. From the outside the process is more complicated, but much more reliable.
We remove the frill, move aside the coolant expansion tank, crawl up to the trapezoid drive mounting bracket (I don’t know what its scientific name is) and you will see a technological hole under it. You can put a plug and fill it with sealant for reliability. The clutch plug
is a sick part of the 10th family, frequent cable breaks.
If you replace it yourself, you may not install the plug tightly or even not install it at all. The wiring harness
going to the ECU from the engine compartment can be found just below the steering rack. A common problem is that this harness is wrapped in corrugation, which in turn is cut in half, the cut is directed towards the top :)) It may also have a plug missing or not fit tightly into the body.

3. Drain plugs in the bottom

This is actually a controversial point. There are myths that if you do not install plugs, the condensate can drain on its own. But logically, standard sound insulation can absorb water.

4. Holes in the bottom

. I think no comment

5. Maybe coolant?

Make sure that in your situation it is water that is flowing onto the floor, and not coolant. The coolant has a characteristic odor in the cabin and the liquid itself. Possible reasons: The heater pipe, faucet, radiator are leaking.

6. The clutch pedal housing is not sealed

Where does water come from?

Water can be poured through the stove air intake (depending on the model, it appears both on the left and on the right side of the tunnel at the feet). In such a situation, you need to clean the drain holes in the engine compartment, and then coat the joint of the body and the air duct with sealant . If the liquid is from the side of the stove, then first of all it is worth checking whether it is antifreeze (the faucet often leaks simply through clamps and pipes or the heater radiator). The heater can also leak through the engine.

This is where water can flow into the Hyundai Accent

It is possible that water may leak through the gasket in the mounting block and fuse box. Also, in domestic cars, liquid leakage through the windshield frame can occur ( water leaks in the corners ). This situation can arise for several reasons:

1. First, the drain holes may be clogged (they need cleaning).
2. Secondly, the seal may not adhere tightly to the glass (due to drying out or cracking).
3. Thirdly, perhaps the formation of a gap between the glass and the body.

It is not uncommon for water to seep through rubber door seals (torn, shriveled rubber) that need to be replaced. How simple would it be? But a lot also depends on the installation of the seal; it happens that it was simply installed incorrectly, here you need to be extremely careful. Or because the doors have sagged or are not adjusted correctly. This results in water pouring in through the doorways. In rare cases, water gets into the steering rack or cables from the driver's side.

The entire list of leak locations in Samara. I found information on the D2 forum from Andronchik67. Respect and respect to him)) A post for those who are faced with this problem and are looking for a solution to the problem. In Samara, liquid can enter the cabin in the following ways. Before reading further, check to see if the reason for the appearance of water in the cabin is simple condensation. All of the following assumes that there is enough water in the cabin for small-scale fish farming. Water in the front part (up to the feet of the rear passengers) Front window seal (usually water enters from the lower corners of the glass): • if the glass seal has become hard; • the glass seal has ruptures; • drainage holes in the glass seal and windshield frame are clogged - 2 pcs. at a distance of about 5-7 cm from the lower corners of the seal; • the side of the windshield frame in the area of ​​the drainage holes has rotted; • the frame under the glass seal has rotted; • the glass has incorrect geometric dimensions; • just such a seal. I had to deal with the last reason after replacing the windshield seal. For a couple of months after replacing the seal, there was no water in the cabin. With the beginning of autumn, after each rain we had to remove the plugs from the floor and drain the water. The location of the leak could not be found. I drove it with ice in the cabin all winter. And only in the spring, after removing the torpedo and dancing with a tambourine for two hours, I found the location of the leak - at a distance of 6 cm from the lower corner of the glass. I had to change the seal again. Everything is fine now. At the service station they said that 9 out of 10 Samaras leak in this place. Nobody knows the reason. Heater, motor shield: • the joint “stove body - motor shield” is not coated with non-hardening sealant; • two self-tapping screws of the water-reflective casing of the stove are not seated on the sealant; • “floods” the stove when the drainage holes in the swamp are clogged; • the fan casing seal is missing, torn, “stubby” or has incorrect dimensions; • rubber plugs in the motor shield (coat the wires passing through the motor shield with non-hardening sealant); • rotted or torn out studs in the engine shield; • necessarily d.b. a rubber valve is installed in the drainage hole to the left of the ball, otherwise water gets onto the speedometer cable plug and further into the cabin. Holes in the floor: • there are no rubber plugs in the bottom; • torn covers of the gearshift lever and handbrake cable; • rotten or torn out studs for securing the converter casing; • hidden “threshold-hump” holes - when driving through deep puddles; • holes in the upper part of the sill and under the trim of the rear seat sidewalls on the VAZ-2108 when driving through deep puddles. Antifreeze: • heater tap — throw it out and replace it with two pipes (I did this and don’t regret it); • heater radiator; • clamps and pipes in the passenger compartment (install NORMA clamps and tighten “hot” with a 7 wrench). Water from the rear window washer pipe. The rear window washer tube (for hatchbacks) runs in the upper right corner of the dashboard, through the engine shield and inside the right pillar up to the ceiling, inside the right roof side member. To get to it you need to (under the dashboard) either “bend” the right side of the dashboard or lie on your back at the front passenger’s feet and bend the sound insulation. It is advisable to remove the roof lining. If it is left in a “hanging” position, it can break in the middle: the line connecting the middle fastenings of the handrails is the most flimsy place. Doors: • tightness of the door, integrity and elasticity of the seal; • wires for antennas, taxi lights, etc. passing through the door seal; • drainage holes in the door; • presence of “aprons” inside the door; • integrity and softness of velvet glass; • fastenings of side rear-view mirrors; • close windows and doors in rain and snow. Body corrosion: • windshield frame; • thresholds; • internal arches of the front wheels; • if there are no front lockers, there are no wire plugs to the signal repeaters; • floor, etc. Lack of rubber mats on the floor and holes in the standard carpet - it runs off your feet. CHY - remove and place its seal on the sealant. Rubber seal for hood cable. If the back of the car is lifted, then look at the condition of all kinds of plugs, holes, parts, etc., etc. in the rear of the car. Sunroof, antenna, flashing light in the roof... Water in the rear (from the rear passengers' feet to the rear lights) Body corrosion can lead to water in the cabin! • the presence of containers with liquids in the trunk - check the lids! • rear light seal - place on sealant (adhesive-sealant). I used BODY 920. I recently saw a seal from Audi. It is a black soft sausage about half a meter long. Non-budget price - 190 rubles. Most likely a non-curing sealant. If the gap is large, then IMHO you can use a non-hardening sealant like BODY 999. On older machines, remove the seal, clean it and turn it over to the other side; • holes for license plate; • hole for securing the separator and a small hole under it (most likely for the trim in luxury models; • rubber in the floor of the spare tire; • rubber window seals (especially pay attention to the rear window - lower corners); • clogged drains in the rear door ( for hatchbacks) - periodically clean and additionally drill 4-5 holes with a diameter of 4-4.5 mm; • rubber door seal - replace with a new one and/or adjust the door for a tight fit. It is good to use a piece of thick paper 3-4 cm wide and long 20-25 cm. Place the sheet on the seal, close the door and pull out the sheet. • rubber plugs inside the wings - 2 pcs. Sometimes they fly out, sometimes they don’t. If the lockers at the back do not have “shelves,” then dirt and water get inside the wings through the holes. • through the self-tapping screws of the lockers, when they are screwed through “through the rear arches into the passenger compartment”; • holes in the floor from the “luxury” trim; • 6 or 8 holes in the trunk along the rear side members - only rubber plugs or sealing with something will help; • hatch to the gas tank sensor - secure the hatch correctly, new rubber, sealant...; • 8 holes (4 on each side) in the feet of the rear passengers. From the factory: the bottom is filled with plastisol, the top is filled with bitumen sheet. Relevant for older cars. Install plugs.

Download - Water under the passenger mat Priors

Video comments

Thank you, I also had the same problem, saw the video and fixed it, thanks

Thanks for the review, most likely mine is also leaking from this place. I will try.

I encountered the same problem on a Honda SRV, I will cover it up. Tell me, is it no longer leaking?

the same thing, but I talked to friends and acquaintances, it turned out in 2 cars out of three, either immediately or over time, but this happens.

Today I watched the video, there’s a leak in this place, I covered it up, and we’ll see what happened on top and bottom

Both on grants and on Kalinas, exactly such problems occur, maybe not often, but they do occur, and I came across exactly such a grant, I spent a long time looking for where it was leaking, the AvtoVAZ bitch is simply a disgrace, it’s just cruel, and even asking such money for this designer, the whole suspension and The behavior of the chassis is completely without logic, on the highway it’s like in a caravan, and on a gravel road it’s like in a chaise, that’s how you could even create this.

And it’s wet on my driver’s side((I’ll look

It's also in the corner on my driver's side.

With Nutri, if you cover it up, stop? It's not possible from above

Today I discovered a leak in the same place ((this weekend I’ll go and seal it with silicone

On a Tavria with 3 tons of mileage, I also noticed this when I installed the speakers, we will fix it before it starts leaking too much. The car is new, but it’s already leaking, poor thing.

It leaked after six years of use, I’ll go take a look tomorrow, thank you!

My brother and I have the same thing. Buy Body 950, this is a rubber aerosol in liquid form. There may also be a leak from under the glass Velvet covers, and after the rain, check if the water collects there.

⇥ Autoplay

Messages 12

1 Topic by fade353 2015-04-24 14:27:53 (2015-04-24 14:35:17 edited by fade353)

• fade353
• Experienced
• Inactive

• Registration: 2014-07-16
• Messages: 404Thanks: 70

Topic: Resolved: How to remove the interior carpet of a VAZ 2110

I decided to install noise and vibration insulation.

1. How and where it is attached in the cabin (floor covering)

2. What will need to be removed/disassembled besides the visible elements (plastic sills, seats, floor tunnel, this is already clear, I mean that I can’t see with my eye when the interior is assembled).

3. I created a topic because I doubt how it is attached to the panel, under the center console (beard or whatever it is - where the radio is shorter).

4. In accordance with lada2111.rf/fight-s-shumom/61-sh... -pola.html, will I remove the covering WITHOUT removing the panel?

5. What about wires? pull it up or wall it up to the bottom?

I would be grateful for photos/videos and advice, thank you!

2 Reply from Anton 2015-04-24 14:36:15

• Anton
• Local
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• Registration: 2014-02-20
• Messages: 2,207Thanks: 255

Re: Resolved: How to remove the interior carpet of a VAZ 2110

It seems like this article says that the panel needs to be removedlada2111.rf/fight-s-shumom/61-sh... -pola.html

3 Reply from Admin 2015-04-24 14:42:35

• Admin
• Administrator
• Inactive

• Registration: 2012-02-20
• Messages: 3,257Thanks: 623

Re: Resolved: How to remove the interior carpet of a VAZ 2110

In foreign cars, you don’t have to remove the panel to remove the carpet, you just move the front seat back and that’s it. on the VAZ everything is different, the carpet in front is fixed by the dashboard, like a central part. but you can do it easier, remove the carpet without removing the panels, simply cutting it off in the place where it does not give in and that’s all. I wouldn’t hide the wires under the vibroplast, it’s better to be above it, you never know..

Relationship between weather outside and water inside the car

During the wet season, water constantly gets into the car interior along with shoes and clothes. After some time, the water flows onto the floor of the car and begins to slowly evaporate. At the same time, a layer of condensation and an unpleasant odor form on the glass.

To speed up the process of water evaporation in this case, you will need to turn on the heating devices to maximum when getting into the car. They must be kept in this state for several minutes, and sometimes for about an hour. Heating devices include anything that will emit an increased amount of heat, and this includes, in addition to the stove, various heated windows and seats. To increase drying efficiency, you should wipe the glass with a dry cloth after a while.

To minimize damage from condensation in wet weather, it is worth limiting the flow of air from the street through ventilation devices.

It is worth noting that a bag of special salt can effectively combat moisture introduced with clothing. By placing such an item in the cabin, it will begin to intensively absorb excess condensation. However, you should not forget about it, and after some time it will need to be replaced or dried on a warm radiator.

A folk remedy for dealing with water from shoes is:

• laying out newspapers,
• towels,
• installation of special rubber mats on the car floor.

They significantly reduce the content of condensation in the cabin by absorbing water. However, you should remember to periodically throw wet objects out of the car. It is best to do this in a warm garage, since if you go out into the cold, the water will quickly freeze and the paper will most likely stick firmly to the carpets.

Trunk

The VAZ plant did not provide drainage holes here. The rear wing shelf has a sloping shape. Water flows down the gutters along the fender and sealing rubber to the rear lights.

To ensure that water does not accumulate in the upper part of the trunk, but flows freely, you need to clean the area between the trunk lid seal and the body. Usually leaves and debris from trees are collected here.

Inside the trunk itself, on the bottom there are drainage points. We lift the floor protection and see several holes. One small and several large ones. The smaller ones are designed to remove moisture from the very bottom, the others, they are located higher, to drain water if the trunk is full.

initial stage

Before applying any selected drying, you should try to remove the maximum amount of water from the interior. For this:

• We remove the rugs (at the same time you can check whether they have become moldy and wash them);
• Raise the carpet and lay several layers of toilet paper underneath it. The option with newspapers is cheaper (they put a lot of spam out the window), but less effective - such paper absorbs worse. The feminine pads used by some originals are more effective, but they will hit your pocket hard. You can fill the space with hygienic litter for a cat litter box - it absorbs perfectly, but then you will be bothered to pick it out from under the upholstery. Those whose carpet is firmly fixed can take such a step only after serious dismantling, which not everyone will decide to do. If you skip it, further actions will take more time;
• The carpet is laid in place and covered with the same toilet paper, as thick a layer as possible;
• Next, the resulting “pie” must be carefully trampled, squeezing out the water. Several approaches may be needed. Our goal is to remove as much water as possible from the floor. The carpet and the top of the bottom will still remain wet, but drying them in the future will be easier, since a certain amount of water will not need to evaporate.

Variety of methods

If we had a heated garage on hand, we could simply leave the doors open overnight (with the power turned off, of course). Since there is no such luxury, you will have to work with your hands.

The method is fast

. Take a hairdryer (preferably a construction one, not one borrowed from your wife) and dry the entire surface section by section. Vigilance is the highest - the temperature of the unit is about 400°C, so a fire can easily be started if you are not careful.

A method for the lazy

. The fan heater turns on, the doors close - and so on for about 3 hours. The disadvantages include: the need to connect it somewhere (so there must still be a garage, even if it is cold); uneven drying; Difficulty in directing it towards the floor. However, the latter can be overcome simply by running the fan longer.

A method for those who have air conditioning

. The car starts, the heater turns on, the air conditioner turns on to recirculate, the windows and doors close, and the owner walks around, breathes deeply and explores the familiar surroundings for a long time. The heater alone will not save you: humid air will circulate throughout the cabin, since the vapors simply have nowhere to go. The air conditioner will extract them and remove them overboard.

If you take care of dryness regularly, and not in emergency mode, then the standard stove found in every car will be enough. Just before leaving the car, you need to wrap or remove the floor mats, roll up the windows and turn on the heater for 10-15 minutes at maximum. Then one window is left slightly open (1-2 mm, so that it is not visible from the side and new water does not flow in), and the owner can go to sleep.

While the heater cools down, it will dry out the remaining moisture. Finally, let’s return to the antifreeze emergency mentioned at the beginning of the article. Here you won’t be able to get by with half measures, since you can dry the car interior under the rugs, but the chemicals remaining in the carpet will continue to slowly poison you. The removable upholstery will have to be dismantled and washed at home with good powder. With the non-removable option, all that remains is to pay for dry cleaning of the interior.

Replacing and connecting the stove

Installing a new heater radiator is done in the reverse order. When installing rubber hoses, it is recommended to treat them with sealant. When connecting electrical connectors, use the markings applied during disassembly.

After assembly, coolant is poured into the system. To prevent an air lock from forming, remove the hose from the throttle assembly after loosening the clamp. Antifreeze should be poured into the expansion tank slowly, observing the disconnected hose. As soon as coolant flows out of it, the hose should be put back on the fitting and tighten the clamp. If everything is done correctly, the operation of the stove will not cause any complaints.

When installing a new heater radiator, it is recommended to pre-treat the pipes with sealant

When installing a new heater radiator, it is recommended to pre-treat the pipes with sealant

Interior installation

We install the interior elements in the reverse order of dismantling. Some car enthusiasts save and put it on top of the new one.

Also note that the installed sound insulation layer is slightly thicker than its factory counterpart and some bolts may simply not be long enough when installing interior parts. Therefore, you should worry about this in advance and stock up on longer mounting bolts

• Matrix LCD display with wide viewing angle;
• Working with a USB drive;
• Built-in microphone, Bluetooth and wireless voice communication system (can connect up to 2 phones);
• Compatible with Android, iPod/iPhone;
• Maximum output power: MOSFET 50W x 4.

Source

Step-by-step draining of coolant from the engine block

You can drain the liquid from the engine block yourself without a pit, performing this process in stages:

1. The container for antifreeze or antifreeze must be installed exactly under the block.
2. Find the drain plug on the cylinder block and carefully unscrew it. Finding the drain plug is quite simple; this element is located under the car ignition module.
3. We wait about 15-20 minutes for the coolant to drain completely, and then screw the plug into its original place.
4. Experts recommend thoroughly wiping all drain holes with a clean rag to remove all kinds of dirt.

Article: 2108-51120**

Data updated: 09/21/2021 at 07:33

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What to do if water gets into the engine

If the car suddenly stalls after passing a water obstacle, you should not try to start it again. There is a risk that there is a water lock in one of the cylinders. In this case, you need to get to the repair site by tow truck or tow truck.

What to do next? You should open the hood and inspect which components have gotten wet.

It is important to dry the ignition system

Plugs and ignition coils

It is necessary to unscrew the spark plugs and coils and allow them to air dry. It is recommended to check and dry the air filter as well as the hose. Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air, or crank the engine starter without installed spark plugs. So, some of the water will be pushed out.

Actions to take when the floor is very wet

In case of more global flooding of the interior, for example, when the car has scooped up water from a deep puddle or dived into a body of water, the problem cannot be solved by the methods discussed. If you can drain the main water yourself, then for complete drying it is better to use the services of professionals, since in this case you cannot hesitate. The longer the interior is in contact with water, the higher the likelihood of moisture penetrating into the noise and heat insulation layers of the upholstery. In addition to worries about removing water from the floor, in this case you will have to disassemble the upholstery for subsequent drying. This will require a lot of time and space where the materials will need to be dried, but if everything is done correctly and quickly, then the appearance of mold, the unpleasant smell of dampness and other related problems can be avoided.

The water in the car under the carpet can be easily pumped out with a vacuum cleaner at the car wash, after which you can directly dry the interior. It’s up to you to dry the interior yourself or resort to the help of specialists, but you cannot expect that the moisture will go away on its own, nor can you delay the event. Where dry cleaning services are available, there is also special equipment that allows you to thoroughly dry your car. This option will lead to the desired result faster and will also save you from unnecessary hassle, while the main thing in achieving the effect is high-quality performance of the work.

Source

How to fix the situation yourself

In half of the cases, repairs are possible with your own hands. This should be done if:

• the drainage channel is clogged;
• crack in the seal;
• The rubber seal has come off due to poor quality or old sealant.

How to eliminate a leak if the drainage channel is clogged - use a toothpick or thin wire to clear the gap, rotating the device, as if clearing a sewer pipe.

If the reason is a loose seal, then it’s easy to seal the leak with sealant:

1. Wipe the elastic band where the glue layer has come off with alcohol.

1. Use a spatula to pry off the seal.
2. Coat the gap with sealant.
3. Press firmly.
4. Remove excess glue from the glass.

If you need to replace a worn rubber band, you cannot do without dismantling it. You will need suction cups to remove the glass, or a qualified assistant:

1. Use a knife or thin string to cut through the sealant and pull out the glass.
2. Clean the opening, wash and degrease the shield before re-gluing.
3. Apply sealant.
4. Install the transparent part.
5. Dry and check for leaks.

Rubbing body parts

To increase the life of the rubbing parts of the body, they should be lubricated at every maintenance. If creaks or jamming are detected, the body fittings must be cleaned before lubrication.

Lubricate the rubbing parts of the doors

:

• Side door hinges (silicone spray lubricant).
• Door limiter rods (silicone lubricant in aerosol packaging).
• Driver's door lock cylinder (silicone lubricant in aerosol packaging).
• Door locks (silicone spray lubricant).

Lubricate the hood

:

• Hood hinges (silicone spray lubricant or motor oil).
• Hood latch (silicone spray lubricant or motor oil).

Lubricate the trunk lid

:

• Trunk lid hinges (silicone spray lubricant).
• Trunk lid lock cylinder (silicone lubricant in aerosol packaging).
• Trunk lid lock (spray silicone lubricant or motor oil).

Lubricate other body parts

:

• Hinges of the gas tank filler hatch (silicone aerosol lubricant or motor oil).
• Windshield wiper arm joints (silicone aerosol lubricant). Cover the glass with paper.
• Exterior mirror bracket hinges (silicone spray lubricant).

Starting after removing moisture

After the oil has been successfully changed, rushing to start the engine as quickly as possible is wrong. If the car is an old model and does not have an electronic control unit, then it is enough to unscrew the spark plugs, switch or coil and distributor. If you have an ECU, it is better to wait for the moisture to evaporate naturally. After removing the spark plugs, you can safely crank the engine using the starter, thereby drying the cylinders. For a full start, it is better to leave the car for a couple of days to completely evaporate any remaining moisture and ventilate it.

After a few days, you can put the spark plugs back in place and try to start the engine. If you can’t do this, you shouldn’t use any kind of sophistication for this. It is better to immediately call a tow truck or tug and go to the nearest car service center, where they will determine the cause as accurately as possible and eliminate the consequences using more technologically advanced methods.

Now, having found yourself in such an unpleasant situation, you also know what to do if there is moisture in the engine. There is no need to panic, turn off the engine immediately and do not wait for it to stall on its own due to water hammer.

What to do if there is little moisture

Of course, it is better to prevent the appearance of moisture in the car interior than to deal with it later. Motorists who pay attention to car care in order to avoid unpleasant consequences are no less concerned about maintaining dryness than replacing consumables.

It is also important to regularly monitor the integrity of the insulating materials, because the seals wear out over time and can let water in from the outside. In case of wear, it is better to replace the insulation immediately.

In summer, you can easily provide conditions for quickly removing moisture; to do this, simply open the windows or doors so that warm air flows circulate well. If the car is equipped with a climate control system, then in any bad weather you can organize a suitable microclimate in the cabin. The “Window Defrosting” option will help get rid of excess humidity. Of course, you should not only brush snow off your clothes and shoes when getting into the car, but also use the right mats so that moisture doesn’t have a chance in the first place. In winter, you should not use textile car mats; rubber ones are better for this period, since they are easy to remove water from. By leaving your car in a heated garage with good ventilation, you don’t have to worry about the accumulation of moisture in the cabin. Drying will not be difficult even in winter if the room is well ventilated, since the water evaporating from the heat will not settle as condensation. So, if you leave the windows or car doors open in such a garage, the problem will be solved spontaneously.

Reasons why water gets into oil

As mentioned above, one of the signs is a decrease in coolant. If this is the case, then there are several options:

• Leaking cylinder head. It happens that the gasket “breaks”, accompanied by a characteristic whistle, so it can be diagnosed quite easily.
• Leakage of pipes. This is also a common problem, but there are quite a few places where the coolant comes into contact with the oil. It's also easy to determine.
• Crack in the engine jacket. There is nothing you can do to help here, such details only need to be changed.

But it also happens that water in oil is not a consequence of a malfunction, but the natural course of things. This often manifests itself during short trips, especially in winter, and in summer not everything is so smooth. So, let's look at each season separately.

Operation in winter

The problem with winter is the low outside temperature. We started the engine, warmed it up, drove where we needed to go, returned and parked the car. This is perhaps the most common scenario for using a car.

So, above the oil level in the engine there is free space that is filled with air

It doesn't matter where he comes from, he just exists. But at the same time, its humidity is usually higher than in the external environment, because the oil covers all internal parts

And it uses so-called esters, they are designed to play the role of a kind of silicone in order to maintain lubricating properties. So these same esters are very hygroscopic. This means that they absorb moisture. Thus, over time, the air humidity in the engine crankcase reaches 90 percent.

The fact is that circulating the same amount of water in the crankcase is not as critical as constant replenishment. Crankcase gases that break through the piston rings also have a certain amount of moisture, which means the overall concentration increases.

Operation in summer

In summer, as it may seem, there is no such disease, because there are no temperature changes. In fact, this is partly true. But there is another problem. And it lies in the fact that air humidity in the summer is much higher, which means water accumulates in the crankcase faster. Now let's look in general. Initially, the normal amount of water in oil is up to 5 grams per 1 liter (0.5%).

This is exactly how it is sold in the store. If the norm is exceeded, the batch is sent to scrap. About 500 grams of water will settle from one cubic meter of air at a temperature of 90 degrees (operating temperature).

The average volume of air in the crankcase is approximately 20 liters. This means that at 60% humidity the engine will gain about 6 grams per cooldown. Let's take the average volume of oil in the engine to be 6 liters. In total, we obtain a concentration of water in oil of 0.01%. These are average numbers. There are 365 days in a year, respectively, the engine will receive a moisture dose of 0.365%. We do not include days with high humidity here. Thus, water in oil can appear simply from time to time.

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The floor carpet is one of the most contaminated parts of a car interior. No rubber mats will protect the floor covering of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 and VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 from dust contamination during long-term use of the car. Therefore, sooner or later you will have to buy a new carpet for the Lada Samara and Samara 2.

To dismantle the old carpet and install a new one in VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 and VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115, you will need to disassemble the interior, and in particular, remove the seats, disassemble the floor tunnel and the lower part of the dashboard.

The carpet itself, which is presented on this page, is a standard pile material, the same as what was installed at AVTOVAZ when these cars rolled off the assembly line. The color of the pile carpet is black. The carpet is molded to a specific model and has technological holes.

Low price, original design and good quality carpet will breathe new life into the interior of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 and VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115.